Thanks. I too am a very visual student. Show me an animation one time and it sticks forever. I think they are very useful to engage everybody watching.
Really want to thank you for the content you put out. After getting cancer and now I'm being told I have less than a year, it's great for me to come out on my "good" days and tinker in my barn and lathe. I still have most of my my diesel mechanic tools (25 yrs) and I've either traded on some stuff or or just have not found it yet. Cheers Joe, I really appreciate your knowledge.
Joe - I always come away amazed at the depth of your knowledge. I appreciate your ability to neither talk down to me or up to me. Thanks for the lesson. Rex (the retired airline pilot)
Hi Joe, well "Buy nice, or buy twice"! That's a lesson I learned a very long time ago! It's a tad more, but you do get what you pay for! It's a good lesson!!
One thing to note about ER collets, if you purchase "Coolant" sealing collets either all steel or rubber sealed, never try to close them on any diameter except nominal. They will get crushed and take a permanent set if the tool diameter is too small. I see it all too many times with the "new guys" constantly destroying good collets simply because they don't know the difference between a regular ER collet and an ER coolant collet.
Thank you for the shout out. I absolutely did meet you at the Bash but the boring bars came from the other Steve, Steve Barton of Solid Rock Machine. I was good to meet you.
I just went back through my notes and I stand corrected. There is more than one UA-cam channel with the initials SRM and a host named Steve. Visit their channel at ua-cam.com/channels/KPqKYF73sJbFUSzo5dQxtQ.html and check out his line of boring bars. They work great.
You are the best! I use 5C collets (for my Lathe) and MT2 collets (for my Clausing 8520 Milling Machine) and needed a good description and comparative analysis of ER collets. As usual, you delivered. Thank you and keep doing what you are doing.
This confirms my decision to go ER series, I have ER32 and ER40 for my mill and lathe. They work extremely well and are cheap as chips as a complete set from China. They may not be as fancy as the expensive sets BUT they have only 0.001 runout which in 95% of jobs is adequate. Nicely explained BTW Joe !!
I've used ER32 collets on my CNC machines for close to 30 years. As long as the tool is held deep enough they work great. I've been retired 7 years and have an R8 set on the mill and they have always worked well. The 5C collet chuck on the lathe also has been great as long as the work fits well. The 5C chuck has the adjustable back plate and I've adjusted it to very close to perfect. The collets are good also. I recently got an R8 to ER40 chuck for the mill, saves me using a step stool and the collets run very nicely. I got an ER40 chuck for the lathe and I can't get it to run true. It is of the "set tru" type and I can dial it in to near perfect at one depth on the taper but as I move away from that spot it deviates, a lot. Well known importer that has had me go through all sorts of trails, to no avail. They will replace it. I can understand them suspecting I'm an idiot. I owned a manufacturing business for 35 years and know a lot about incompetence. I've followed your videos for a long time.
Glad I watched this one. I am just starting out as a hobbyist and I love my ER collets - I have 4 sets! Some have said they are inaccurate but I have found them fine and they have never slipped. I am going to continue with them and ignore the doubters.
I always think I have a good general knowledge about a topic, until you talk about it and I realize how much I didn't know, lol. keep up the outstanding work, sir!
Hey Joe, love your vids. You left out a very important part about collets. ER collets are meant for tool holding, and require the "work" be deep inside the collet. If the work is not deep into the collet, it will have to be over-tightened which can easily damage both the collet and the holder, and will not be secure. 5C collets are meant for work holding, and can be used right out to the very end. There is a very good reason that work holding options are not available for ER collets - they are not intended for work holding, and using them for work holding should be approached with great caution.
How does this go with certain collets (ie) I have an er32 5mm that is releaved in the back so that it only grips in the front (1/4?) of the collet. Isn't this basically the same as gripping with a piece in the front of a full collet?
Dunno. The only short bored ones I have seen still have a gripping range of 20mm to 25mm (3/4" to 1"), which is abut 2/3 of the total collet depth. My understanding is that those collets are meant for through coolant, and can be prone to slippage unless the correct nut is used and the tool is dead on size. No idea what a 5mm ER32 collect that only grips 6m (1/4") at the nose is for.
Again a great presentation. One of the great advantages of sets of ER collets is it will hold any tool size in range. Most collets come in 1mm increments and will hold parts 1mm under nominal. The smallest collets may only have a .5 mm gripping range. For inch sized collets the increments are 1/32 and will hold 1/32 under nominal.
Excellent explanation, big thumbs up on the animation👍. If I may add, draw bar collets on a lathe are a lot faster to operate, than ring nut type, though there is also front ring fast operating type. Great presentation, and spider free.
I was wondering about that. Ive seen Hardinge collect speed chucks for 5C and others I think that use a hand-wheel type thing instead of a draw bar, I wasn't sure how that worked, or if there were any drawback to that style. That indexing drawbar seems perfect for production though, very quick, and repeatable pressure.
Right about the different config and gripping precision, Here TG-100 and ER40 are mainly used, sometimes 5C... I like your demonstration with the mock-up... Well done... ;)
Hi Joe, I use ER collets up to ER40 in preference to scroll or independent chucks to hold work pieces in the lathe spindle. Sometimes the amount available to hold may be only a few millimetres. When it is tightened down, the collet will not remain parallel so the narrow end of the collet will close further than the wide end resulting in run out and the part not being gripped true or securely. To overcome this I insert a short billet, like a thick washer or an off cut, of the same diameter as the work piece in the narrow end of the collet which enables the collet to be fully tightened and minimises run out and the possibility of the part moving or worse coming adrift.
Also, something important to note: ER collets have (slightly) less gripping force if they're gripping towards the bottom of their range. This is because the internal bore diameter doesn't change, you just collapse the space in the slits, so, you no longer have full contact the whole way around a bore. You still have lines of contact the full length of the collet. Another important thing to note with ER collets, you must use a large portion of the length of the collet (most of the places I've seen list 2/3 the length of the collet) otherwise they will not collapse evenly. You cannot hold very short parts in ER series collets unless you also put something at the back of the collet to make it collapse evenly. This ins not as much of a limitation with 5C type collets.
Every time I think I know what I'm doing, I see another Joe Pie video and ... find out I didn't know it all - heck, didn't even know what I didn't know. Thanks as always!
Wow, that's saying something coming from you Doug. Anyone who hasn't checked Doug out, you should! He has a channel with some "interesting" projects.... One of which being his NUCLEAR REACTOR he built in his basement shop!! Not even joking!
The Chinesiuim tools and shop building I put together to support my other projects have more than paid for themselves - physics gear isn't cheap from the usual suspects, and I'm off-grid homesteading and have to make some things myself anyway. But owning all that stuff - most of which "isn't all that bad - it's faithful copies of good USA stuff" - doesn't make you a machinist, not hardly. Make some chips, break some bits, you learn stuff. But with people like Joe out there sharing (and a few others we all know) a lot of things I was doing the hard way and/or by expensive trial and error are now done the JoePi way...and I'm grateful he shares this stuff. A lot of this used to be kinda "guild trade secrets" and hard to find in such an easy to understand and practical form. His backwards threading trick turned my gunsmithing upside down. Basics of a Parting Tool - and tons more..what can I say? Lots of good stuff we all should know but often don't - yet.
No doubt, I have learned soo much on YT about machining from Joe, Robin, Tom, Tony, Stan, Peter, John, Stefan, and others over the past couple years. Hard to say how much I appreciate their time and effort making vids. I have even been able to show my buddy who owns a very large machine shop a few things he didn't know.
Perfect simple explanation and demo of collets Joe! Really liked the oversize wood demonstration. Visual aids like that are absolutely superb for proper understanding of a subject. I have learnt so much from you! Thank you 🙏
great school with gripping demo with wooden planks, without this i would have never understood the gripping effects. you are good master on Grips! Thank you, that was wonderful teaching.
As someone that is a new to this arena and is only a hobbyist, that was an incredibly helpful way of explaining the differences! Thank you for that effort in breaking down the difference 😆
As usual, thanks for the excellent teaching style. In my opinion, ER32 is the best option out there for a home gamer like me. I bought a decent chuck, nut, and a full set of collets for less than the 5C chuck would have cost. Collet blocks for ER32 are inexpensive as well. Two points: look for a nut with bearings, so the collet doesn’t rotate in the block when tightening down, and get a hook-style spanner to augment the fork-style one, for cases where the work extends beyond the OD of the nut, like when turning a small flywheel.
Thanks for the overview Joe. I use ER32, 25, 16 and 11 collets on a Myford Super 7 and Warco WM18 mill. Easy to use and, as you say, can grip a decent range outside nominal. Keeping them clean is important as the smallest piece of swarf can knock them out of true but other than that they are excellent. If they are clean then I can repeatably get to within 0.001" which is great for what I do. Not sure how to get any closer to zero run out though.
Once again Joe, thank you! That "animation" was spectacular in its simplicity with the result being a very clear explanation of the weakness of the 5c and R8 collet vs the ER collets. I've only used the 5c collets and the 3c ones that came with my Southbend 9 but now I understand their limitations. Thank you sir!
Thank you for sharing this information Joe! You just answered about 15 of the issues we have been facing with the mill. Yet without you knowing even, what the issues were! Are you clairvoyant or what? This video is now planted in the grey matter!
Heck Joe, Keith says this is practically magical when I seen this video is 3yrs ago about collets. I drove to PA from Michigan and wanted to touch and feel this Lathe. I invested in the D1-4 adapter to hold the ER40. A complete metric set, giving you a large range to hold your stock. They are from Precision Matthew's. Thank you for your video. In the past, you've responded, I'd like to know if you read this message...
That explains the problems I was having yesterday. I thought if an R8 tightened down on the metric end mill, everything was good. It chattered like hell. Today I use my ER 40 and all was good. Then I watched your video.
I have watched all of your videos I believe. Your style of delivery is great. I like the no nonsense approach. As an novice you have helped me understand how to approach machine work. Don't stop. For another topic I would like to see you discuss how to sharpen a fly cutter and the pros and cons of using a single point tool on fly cutting a 12 inch wide piece of material. If you have a 3 inch cutter how long can the stick out be? Could you extend it out 5 inches?
Invaluable knowledge expertly presented that I'll remember for years. The wooden models were important lecture aids for illustrating the key points. Thank you for distilling the key points into a succinct and excellent presentation.
Generally speaking, all ER collets have a range, usually up to 1mm or 1/32" under the stated size. The smallest ones (eg < 1/16”) have slightly smaller ranges. You'll spring the collet if you go over the stated size.
One thing I'd add for ER collets is that the like to be balanced ie grip all the way down the length. So don't go gripping short stock at the very tip, otherwise the collet will generate the angular contact and tend to grip at the back of the part. Simple solution is to insert similar size stock at the rear of the ER collet as well
Good video Joe. I made an ER40 collet chuck for lathe which goes upto 32mm with oversize collets, use it most of the time. One problem with ER, it needs the full length engagement, I often have to put something in the back to stop it collapsing if my work peice is short. The crown collet ideal looks ideal. I want to make something to hold short lengths of bar upto 100mm diameter.
Joe . good explanation on collets and how they work . With the ER32 ,if you get a full set of metric collets (metric, swear word again for Americans and older British machinists ) they will cover all sizes, will hold plus or minus 0.5mm with no problem so that includes all imperial sizes as well so no need to get imperial set as well as metric .
Thanks Joe; great explanation as usual ! * A good question would be , " How close is 'close enough' ? " :D The quest for perfection can be INSANE at times - working to light wavelengths, for instance . Experimental machining to the Nth degree forces a LOT of head scratching ;) "V"
Excellent video Joe. ER collets are also great on the mill for drills and finish milling. So an ER set could pull double duty. An under size mandrill will also have the same effect as your demonstration just in the opposite direction. It will grab the front of part rather then then the whole thing.
Can confirm an ER collet will hold a number sized drill pretty well, well enough to jam it through a 3/4" piece of aluminum at 90IPM in my Tormach without slipping up into the collet. First time CNC operating can be expensive :/ Luckily I got my tool heights set properly after that.
Didn't even break the drill, just had to pick out the strips of aluminum from the flutes. I think ER is great for holding odd sized drill bit shanks, and probably threaded rods too.
The nice thing about machining aluminum is that it's pretty forgiving of mistakes compared to steel. I think chucking threaded rod could potential damage an ER collet. I've never tried though.
Great videos, given me a better understanding of several aspects of the subject . I'm not an engineer, but almost 50 years ago I took a couple of summer jobs at small engineering works at a time when there was loads of such work. I had done metalwork at school and so second week at work I was a capstan lathe operator.
I watched this vid after I bought a full set of 5C collets. Ouch! However , I do appreciate the excellent content and clear presentation that you provide. Thanks Joe.
Fantastic video once again! Thanks Joe. I really enjoy your approach to machine shop issues. You have a different, highly technical approach that I enjoy. This video explained some of the issues that I have come across. Keep up the great work.
Absolutely fenomenal demo Joe! I just got a lathe and was wondering what kind of collet system to choose. It still needs a lot of work but when I get it running I give that miniature lathe kit a try!! Thanks again for the great video, take care!!
Excellent video and especially the animation!!! Once again, you mention things that I probably wouldn’t have thought of in a million years! Lol. Thanks Joe...you’re the man. 👍
Another thing is that while the 5C is intended to hold work, the R-8 is intended to hold tooling, like Morse, B&S and some others. So the lack of a through hole isn’t a problem there. Double angle collets are similar to ER collets. Both are really intended for tooling as well. But I have adapters for my lathe. I also have a Jacob’s rubber collet closer and collet set for my lathe. That goes to 1 3/8”. Despite what some people think, it’s very accurate. Too bad Jacobs gave up on some very good tooling, such as their adjustable tap chucks, two sizes of which I have. That’s a shame. Then there’s the nose mount chucks for 5C and others.
thanks joe pie! i used a trick from your videos to hold a small bearing in my lathe chuck. i just wanted to let you know your videos helped me out with a project and i appreciate what you do!
My lathe came with a set of 3C collets and the drawbar. Which is ok but can only hold up to 1/2. My spindle is MT3 so I brought a ER40/MT3 holder which increases my range to 1". The only advantage to the 3C setup is the ability to pass long stock through the tube as you mentions. ER40 is so much better in every way for my purposes. More range, grips stock with very light pressure, grips under/over sized stock very easy, does mare part, easier to open and close, and able to easily index/stop part.
Joe been watching your vids for some time now... I have to say your content is always 1st class and your knowledge on the subject outstanding..the mere fact you make an animation in real world materials superb for guys like me that can actually understand what you say and mean. Thanks for sharing. Great work...just make sure there are no spiders lurking in one of those collets !
Joe you cant put a larger size piece of material in an ER collet than what its rated for. Not even by a thou. The collets can only compress, not expand. Cheers for the heads up on how the R8/5C can compress uniformly! I will stick with the ER 😃
Our lathe uses 4C collets, which are stupid expensive and kind of suck. The PO made a spindle mount adapter to run R8, but that has it's disadvantages. I could make an adapter for ER which would be a much better solution, or get a bigger lathe that can run 5C, but honestly the 6 jaw does a good enough job for most of the work I do. Nice video Mr. Pieczynski, thank you for the info.
I was able to obtain a Jacobs rubberflex collet holder and quite a few collets The collets have an infinite range within each size from 1/16 to 1 ⅜ by ⅛ The closer uses a key the same size as a 20N drill chuck. It does well with less than perfect roundness.
Thanks Mr Pieczynski. This is a very helpful video to anyone who is tired of slipping drill bits. Ah yes, i'm starting with an ER20 collet holder and some mid range collets, wish me luck.
Hi Joe, an excellent explanation as always. Normally, I have no difficulty with differences in terminology between the UK and USA, but when it comes to lathe centres, the system common in the USA doesn't really make sense. You accidently got it "right" at the beginning of the video. The terms, "live" and "dead" centre, predate the adpotion of any kind of tailstock centre that ran in bearings. A workpiece rotates around a dead centre, whether that centre is at the headstock or tailstock end. A live centre rotates with the work. Some older textbooks go a little further and say a live centre is also driven (as it is when in the lathe spindle). If undriven, it's just a bearing centre or running centre. When you get into cylindrical grinding, which can use a live or dead centre in the headstock, this difference causes some confusion. Traditionally, live centres were unhardened, so that they could be trued up in situ in the spindle.
Thanks for the message. I've been at this a long time ( since 1976 full time ) and have always gone by the belief that a solid center, regardless of its placement, is a dead center. A center containing bearings that allow the tip to rotate independent of the taper shank is a live center. A dead center can be used at both ends of a workpiece, but once the spindle starts turning, the dead center then becomes a live center because it spins with the part. If a tail stock center is truly dead, it stays stationary and would require the anti seize lube you normally have on it. The easy way to see what is the common belief is to look in a catalog for lathe centers. Live has bearings so it can move with the workpiece, and a dead is solid.
From the old books I've read, Paul is correct in the original meaning. But words and meanings change over 150 years. So I think most machinists refer to ball bearing centers as live centers, and non as dead centers. If we accept that, we can all move on.
Cool man, Ya I'm designing a tool which needs a quick release chuck/collet/*whatever it just needs to grip a rod* So >>> this video is very helpful as now I understand more and won't have to discover these intricacies which you share. Wisdom and practical experience are king.
5C is a very popular choice for lathes. Not just for the inner stop potential, but lever style closers can get them to repeat on the 'draw back / closed " position very repeatedly. Thats very handy in a production environment for controlling the length of a part. They aren't very forgiving when stock varies too far from nominal though. Like .002 is almost too far. ER collets are slotted on both ends for a parallel / cylindrical closure. This offers a wider range of diameters each size can hold, but I haven't seen a closer that will get them to repeat like a 5C.
@joepie221 Dělal jsem držák kleštin ER 32 pro svůj soustruh, který je v předu v kuželu vřetena a držen "drawbar" skrz vřeteno do zadní části. Drawbar mám trubku, která se šroubuje do držáku kleštin a zarazí se o konec vřetena. Tam je zároveň držák dorazu, který jde skrz celé vřeteno až ke kleštině a umožňuje mi nastavit doraz na celou délku vřetena a ne jen možnost jako je u 5C. Sleduji tvůj kanál již dlouho a líbí se mi tvůj způsob vysvětlování. Je to velký přínos znalostí pro mě. Jsem z České republiky. Hodně zdaru
Really good info and demonstration (animation) with the wood. Feeling better about my decision to obtain my ER32 inch & metric collet sets. Thanks Joe ~ Richard
Hey Joe, I have to correct you on your shout out regarding your boring bars. You said you got them from "Shark River machine" and actually they are from Steve Barton @ "Solid Rock machine" Just in case anyone is looking for a GREAT boring bar. I talked to Steve just the other day, and he mentioned that you had given him very positive feedback! Thank you for the "low-down" on the collets! I'm smarter today than I was yesterday. Take care, thanks for sharing... Razor!
Hey Razor, good to hear from you. You are absolutely correct and Thank you for putting it in a comment. I met many great UA-cam hosts at the Bar Z 2018 bash and recorded the source of that bar as SRM. When I prepared the video, I just picked the wrong SRM to acknowledge. My Bad. I believe I corrected myself in a later video. Are you going to the Lindale TX festival in Nov? Take care.
@@joepie221 All good Joe.... I have been known to mix things up too. When I did a short video on the things I got from the Bash, I was calling my buddy Greg every name other than his...oh yeah, he called me out believe me!!!😲😲😲 I would love to go to this event in Texas as I would visit a number of my friends I've met here, and it would be a great Birthday gift for myself as it does fall on that day, but I just don't have the funds I need to go! Maybe I should start a, "go fund me page" huh? Love your videos man, and wish I had half your skills! Take care, Razor!
The wooden model keeps it simple ( just right for me) , brilliant teaching.
Thanks. I too am a very visual student. Show me an animation one time and it sticks forever. I think they are very useful to engage everybody watching.
Really want to thank you for the content you put out. After getting cancer and now I'm being told I have less than a year, it's great for me to come out on my "good" days and tinker in my barn and lathe. I still have most of my my diesel mechanic tools (25 yrs) and I've either traded on some stuff or or just have not found it yet.
Cheers Joe, I really appreciate your knowledge.
I not sure you think I am who I am
Joe - I always come away amazed at the depth of your knowledge. I appreciate your ability to neither talk down to me or up to me. Thanks for the lesson.
Rex (the retired airline pilot)
Thanks for the comment.
Hi Joe, well "Buy nice, or buy twice"! That's a lesson I learned a very long time ago! It's a tad more, but you do get what you pay for! It's a good lesson!!
One thing to note about ER collets, if you purchase "Coolant" sealing collets either all steel or rubber sealed, never try to close them on any diameter except nominal. They will get crushed and take a permanent set if the tool diameter is too small. I see it all too many times with the "new guys" constantly destroying good collets simply because they don't know the difference between a regular ER collet and an ER coolant collet.
Thank you for the shout out. I absolutely did meet you at the Bash but the boring bars came from the other Steve, Steve Barton of Solid Rock Machine. I was good to meet you.
I just went back through my notes and I stand corrected. There is more than one UA-cam channel with the initials SRM and a host named Steve.
Visit their channel at ua-cam.com/channels/KPqKYF73sJbFUSzo5dQxtQ.html and check out his line of boring bars. They work great.
You are the best! I use 5C collets (for my Lathe) and MT2 collets (for my Clausing 8520 Milling Machine) and needed a good description and comparative analysis of ER collets. As usual, you delivered. Thank you and keep doing what you are doing.
This confirms my decision to go ER series, I have ER32 and ER40 for my mill and lathe. They work extremely well and are cheap as chips as a complete set from China. They may not be as fancy as the expensive sets BUT they have only 0.001 runout which in 95% of jobs is adequate. Nicely explained BTW Joe !!
I've used ER32 collets on my CNC machines for close to 30 years. As long as the tool is held deep enough they work great. I've been retired 7 years and have an R8 set on the mill and they have always worked well. The 5C collet chuck on the lathe also has been great as long as the work fits well. The 5C chuck has the adjustable back plate and I've adjusted it to very close to perfect. The collets are good also. I recently got an R8 to ER40 chuck for the mill, saves me using a step stool and the collets run very nicely. I got an ER40 chuck for the lathe and I can't get it to run true. It is of the "set tru" type and I can dial it in to near perfect at one depth on the taper but as I move away from that spot it deviates, a lot. Well known importer that has had me go through all sorts of trails, to no avail. They will replace it. I can understand them suspecting I'm an idiot. I owned a manufacturing business for 35 years and know a lot about incompetence. I've followed your videos for a long time.
Glad I watched this one. I am just starting out as a hobbyist and I love my ER collets - I have 4 sets! Some have said they are inaccurate but I have found them fine and they have never slipped. I am going to continue with them and ignore the doubters.
I used to have my doubts about them until I pushed them really hard on my CNC mill. They are very strong.
I always think I have a good general knowledge about a topic, until you talk about it and I realize how much I didn't know, lol. keep up the outstanding work, sir!
Excellent presentation. The wood analog is just spectacular. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I agree, the wood demonstration gave me a greater understanding of the design features. Thanks!
Hey Joe, love your vids.
You left out a very important part about collets.
ER collets are meant for tool holding, and require the "work" be deep inside the collet. If the work is not deep into the collet, it will have to be over-tightened which can easily damage both the collet and the holder, and will not be secure.
5C collets are meant for work holding, and can be used right out to the very end.
There is a very good reason that work holding options are not available for ER collets - they are not intended for work holding, and using them for work holding should be approached with great caution.
How does this go with certain collets (ie) I have an er32 5mm that is releaved in the back so that it only grips in the front (1/4?) of the collet. Isn't this basically the same as gripping with a piece in the front of a full collet?
Dunno. The only short bored ones I have seen still have a gripping range of 20mm to 25mm (3/4" to 1"), which is abut 2/3 of the total collet depth. My understanding is that those collets are meant for through coolant, and can be prone to slippage unless the correct nut is used and the tool is dead on size.
No idea what a 5mm ER32 collect that only grips 6m (1/4") at the nose is for.
Again a great presentation. One of the great advantages of sets of ER collets is it will hold any tool size in range. Most collets come in 1mm increments and will hold parts 1mm under nominal. The smallest collets may only have a .5 mm gripping range. For inch sized collets the increments are 1/32 and will hold 1/32 under nominal.
Excellent explanation, big thumbs up on the animation👍. If I may add, draw bar collets on a lathe are a lot faster to operate, than ring nut type, though there is also front ring fast operating type.
Great presentation, and spider free.
I was wondering about that. Ive seen Hardinge collect speed chucks for 5C and others I think that use a hand-wheel type thing instead of a draw bar, I wasn't sure how that worked, or if there were any drawback to that style. That indexing drawbar seems perfect for production though, very quick, and repeatable pressure.
You are literally the best teacher I have ever seen in my life.
Thats quite a compliment. Thank you.
I spent a lot of money on either the wrong and or crappy and collets till I saw this video. Now I have only 6 and they are brilliant. Thanks Joe
Right about the different config and gripping precision, Here TG-100 and ER40 are mainly used, sometimes 5C...
I like your demonstration with the mock-up... Well done... ;)
Thanks Pierre.
LOVE THE ANIMATION it helps to make sense of what goes on in a collet
Hi Joe, I use ER collets up to ER40 in preference to scroll or independent chucks to hold work pieces in the lathe spindle. Sometimes the amount available to hold may be only a few millimetres. When it is tightened down, the collet will not remain parallel so the narrow end of the collet will close further than the wide end resulting in run out and the part not being gripped true or securely.
To overcome this I insert a short billet, like a thick washer or an off cut, of the same diameter as the work piece in the narrow end of the collet which enables the collet to be fully tightened and minimises run out and the possibility of the part moving or worse coming adrift.
I do the same, especially if the stock is only a short length I have stubs of same dia. stock in the collet box as a 'ready for use' item.
Nice job on the animation using plywood. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Very clear and informative.
Thanks. Its better than trying to explain it verbally.
When Joe said animation, I was expecting pixels. Very impressed that he took the time to make props to demonstrate.
Also, something important to note: ER collets have (slightly) less gripping force if they're gripping towards the bottom of their range. This is because the internal bore diameter doesn't change, you just collapse the space in the slits, so, you no longer have full contact the whole way around a bore. You still have lines of contact the full length of the collet.
Another important thing to note with ER collets, you must use a large portion of the length of the collet (most of the places I've seen list 2/3 the length of the collet) otherwise they will not collapse evenly. You cannot hold very short parts in ER series collets unless you also put something at the back of the collet to make it collapse evenly. This ins not as much of a limitation with 5C type collets.
That indexable collet closing mechanism is awesome
Every time I think I know what I'm doing, I see another Joe Pie video and ... find out I didn't know it all - heck, didn't even know what I didn't know.
Thanks as always!
Wow, that's saying something coming from you Doug. Anyone who hasn't checked Doug out, you should! He has a channel with some "interesting" projects.... One of which being his NUCLEAR REACTOR he built in his basement shop!! Not even joking!
The Chinesiuim tools and shop building I put together to support my other projects have more than paid for themselves - physics gear isn't cheap from the usual suspects, and I'm off-grid homesteading and have to make some things myself anyway.
But owning all that stuff - most of which "isn't all that bad - it's faithful copies of good USA stuff" - doesn't make you a machinist, not hardly. Make some chips, break some bits, you learn stuff. But with people like Joe out there sharing (and a few others we all know) a lot of things I was doing the hard way and/or by expensive trial and error are now done the JoePi way...and I'm grateful he shares this stuff. A lot of this used to be kinda "guild trade secrets" and hard to find in such an easy to understand and practical form.
His backwards threading trick turned my gunsmithing upside down. Basics of a Parting Tool - and tons more..what can I say? Lots of good stuff we all should know but often don't - yet.
No doubt, I have learned soo much on YT about machining from Joe, Robin, Tom, Tony, Stan, Peter, John, Stefan, and others over the past couple years. Hard to say how much I appreciate their time and effort making vids. I have even been able to show my buddy who owns a very large machine shop a few things he didn't know.
Perfect simple explanation and demo of collets Joe!
Really liked the oversize wood demonstration. Visual aids like that are absolutely superb for proper understanding of a subject.
I have learnt so much from you!
Thank you 🙏
great school with gripping demo with wooden planks, without this i would have never understood the gripping effects. you are good master on Grips! Thank you, that was wonderful teaching.
As someone that is a new to this arena and is only a hobbyist, that was an incredibly helpful way of explaining the differences! Thank you for that effort in breaking down the difference 😆
Glad it was helpful!
Your demonstration is "Top Drawer"...great teacher.
Thank you for the time and plywood put into making this; I know both are valuable.
I made an ER-16 though-coolant collet holder for my tailstock. Makes drilling deep holes in titanium much less nerve wracking.
As usual, thanks for the excellent teaching style. In my opinion, ER32 is the best option out there for a home gamer like me. I bought a decent chuck, nut, and a full set of collets for less than the 5C chuck would have cost. Collet blocks for ER32 are inexpensive as well.
Two points: look for a nut with bearings, so the collet doesn’t rotate in the block when tightening down, and get a hook-style spanner to augment the fork-style one, for cases where the work extends beyond the OD of the nut, like when turning a small flywheel.
You can tell a craftsman because he can make his own tools.
Amazing crown collet!👍👍👍
Great job on explaining the differences between collets😀😁👍
Thanks for the overview Joe. I use ER32, 25, 16 and 11 collets on a Myford Super 7 and Warco WM18 mill. Easy to use and, as you say, can grip a decent range outside nominal. Keeping them clean is important as the smallest piece of swarf can knock them out of true but other than that they are excellent. If they are clean then I can repeatably get to within 0.001" which is great for what I do. Not sure how to get any closer to zero run out though.
Once again Joe, thank you!
That "animation" was spectacular in its simplicity with the result being a very clear explanation of the weakness of the 5c and R8 collet vs the ER collets.
I've only used the 5c collets and the 3c ones that came with my Southbend 9 but now I understand their limitations.
Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching.
As far as teachers go. Joe you are my HERO. I always learn something new from you.
Super clear explanation of what's available and how to choose them. The visual examples of what happens when things are tightened are awesome!
That demo with the wood was incredible. Thanks for the mind warp. As always.
Thank you for sharing this information Joe! You just answered about 15 of the issues we have been facing with the mill. Yet without you knowing even, what the issues were! Are you clairvoyant or what? This video is now planted in the grey matter!
Heck Joe, Keith says this is practically magical when I seen this video is 3yrs ago about collets. I drove to PA from Michigan and wanted to touch and feel this Lathe. I invested in the D1-4 adapter to hold the ER40. A complete metric set, giving you a large range to hold your stock. They are from Precision Matthew's. Thank you for your video. In the past, you've responded, I'd like to know if you read this message...
That explains the problems I was having yesterday. I thought if an R8 tightened down on the metric end mill, everything was good. It chattered like hell. Today I use my ER 40 and all was good. Then I watched your video.
My work here is done..........
I have watched all of your videos I believe. Your style of delivery is great. I like the no nonsense approach. As an novice you have helped me understand how to approach machine work. Don't stop.
For another topic I would like to see you discuss how to sharpen a fly cutter and the pros and cons of using a single point tool on fly cutting a 12 inch wide piece of material. If you have a 3 inch cutter how long can the stick out be? Could you extend it out 5 inches?
One of the best systems I’ve used on the lathe has been the Jacobs rubbber flex. Amazing range and accurate
I had the luck to buy a rubberflex that has a key closer rather than the hand wheel. I get consistent o.oo1 TIR.
The big plus is the extreme range
Invaluable knowledge expertly presented that I'll remember for years. The wooden models were important lecture aids for illustrating the key points. Thank you for distilling the key points into a succinct and excellent presentation.
I really like my Jacobs Rubberflex collet chuck on my lathe. Gotta love covering 1/8"-1 1/8" in like 7 collets.
Thank you for putting time, effort and skill in making these excellent videos!
My pleasure!
Generally speaking, all ER collets have a range, usually up to 1mm or 1/32" under the stated size. The smallest ones (eg < 1/16”) have slightly smaller ranges. You'll spring the collet if you go over the stated size.
One thing I'd add for ER collets is that the like to be balanced ie grip all the way down the length. So don't go gripping short stock at the very tip, otherwise the collet will generate the angular contact and tend to grip at the back of the part.
Simple solution is to insert similar size stock at the rear of the ER collet as well
Very good explanation and demonstration of 5c, R8 and ER collets. Thanks for taking the time out of your busy day to make these videos.
Good video Joe. I made an ER40 collet chuck for lathe which goes upto 32mm with oversize collets, use it most of the time. One problem with ER, it needs the full length engagement, I often have to put something in the back to stop it collapsing if my work peice is short.
The crown collet ideal looks ideal. I want to make something to hold short lengths of bar upto 100mm diameter.
Very good explanations and your presentation were very clear about the different kind of collets.
I can appreciate that visualization. That was well planned out. Very good 👍🏼
Glad you liked it!
Joe . good explanation on collets and how they work . With the ER32 ,if you get a full set of metric collets (metric, swear word again for Americans and older British machinists ) they will cover all sizes, will hold plus or minus 0.5mm with no problem so that includes all imperial sizes as well so no need to get imperial set as well as metric .
Outstanding teaching aid to put everything into perspective. A picture is worth a 1000 words.
I learn a topic quicker if I can see an example or application. A tech description is good, but having the how and why really drives it home for me.
Welcome back Gregory. Thanks for watching every second of this video. Loyal fan since 2021. LOL
Thanks Joe for another excellent presentation, I picked up a few valuable bits here, cheers from Australia
Great demonstration Joe. This helped me decide on which collet system I will be choosing.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Great demonstration of how the collets clamp. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
@@joepie221 I have some er collets that hold the tool from the narrow end and not the wide flat side. Do you know what these are called?
Thanks Joe; great explanation as usual ! * A good question would be , " How close is 'close enough' ? " :D The quest for perfection can be INSANE at times - working to light wavelengths, for instance . Experimental machining to the Nth degree forces a LOT of head scratching ;) "V"
A couple tenths and I'm usually content.
Excellent video Joe. ER collets are also great on the mill for drills and finish milling. So an ER set could pull double duty. An under size mandrill will also have the same effect as your demonstration just in the opposite direction. It will grab the front of part rather then then the whole thing.
Can confirm an ER collet will hold a number sized drill pretty well, well enough to jam it through a 3/4" piece of aluminum at 90IPM in my Tormach without slipping up into the collet. First time CNC operating can be expensive :/ Luckily I got my tool heights set properly after that.
ultra high speed machining? lmao
Didn't even break the drill, just had to pick out the strips of aluminum from the flutes. I think ER is great for holding odd sized drill bit shanks, and probably threaded rods too.
The nice thing about machining aluminum is that it's pretty forgiving of mistakes compared to steel. I think chucking threaded rod could potential damage an ER collet. I've never tried though.
Great animation showing how they work. Enjoyed watching the video.
Joe,
Very nice overview on the particulars of different collets. Thanks!
You can also use ER nut with internal bearing, these allow tremendous grip when tighten. More usefull on mill but nice to have on lathe also.
This is all so helpful for the guy with a small shop! Few can afford 5 axis machining centers - I think even those guys can benefit.
Great stuff! :)
Great videos, given me a better understanding of several aspects of the subject .
I'm not an engineer, but almost 50 years ago I took a couple of summer jobs at small engineering works at a time when there was loads of such work. I had done metalwork at school and so second week at work I was a capstan lathe operator.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Joe,you didn’t mention that the ER design also includes an ER40 and ER50 sizing which supports sizes over 1.125”
G’day Joe, love the wooden mock-up from the wood shop makes it easy to follow and visualise. Cheers Peter
I watched this vid after I bought a full set of 5C collets. Ouch! However , I do appreciate the excellent content and clear presentation that you provide. Thanks Joe.
Excellent tutorial!
I had no idea about the issue with 5C collet's that you demonstrated so well with that mock up.
Thank you
Fantastic video once again! Thanks Joe. I really enjoy your approach to machine shop issues. You have a different, highly technical approach that I enjoy. This video explained some of the issues that I have come across. Keep up the great work.
Absolutely fenomenal demo Joe! I just got a lathe and was wondering what kind of collet system to choose. It still needs a lot of work but when I get it running I give that miniature lathe kit a try!! Thanks again for the great video, take care!!
Excellent video and especially the animation!!! Once again, you mention things that I probably wouldn’t have thought of in a million years! Lol. Thanks Joe...you’re the man. 👍
You left out Jacobs rubber flex collets, I was hoping to learn something about those.
Somehow I missed this one last year. Great information as usual 👍 thanks for what you do!
Great video, especially the explanation with the wooden mock-up. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! the wood models really help it sink in.
Another thing is that while the 5C is intended to hold work, the R-8 is intended to hold tooling, like Morse, B&S and some others. So the lack of a through hole isn’t a problem there. Double angle collets are similar to ER collets. Both are really intended for tooling as well. But I have adapters for my lathe. I also have a Jacob’s rubber collet closer and collet set for my lathe. That goes to 1 3/8”. Despite what some people think, it’s very accurate. Too bad Jacobs gave up on some very good tooling, such as their adjustable tap chucks, two sizes of which I have. That’s a shame.
Then there’s the nose mount chucks for 5C and others.
thanks joe pie! i used a trick from your videos to hold a small bearing in my lathe chuck. i just wanted to let you know your videos helped me out with a project and i appreciate what you do!
Thanks for the feedback.
Haircut looks good man! Makes you look younger. Always love the videos! Super awesome info!
Great stuff Joe - wish I had half your set-up! That special (crown) collet you made is real sweet.
Man, your instruction is phenomenal!! Thank you!
My lathe came with a set of 3C collets and the drawbar. Which is ok but can only hold up to 1/2. My spindle is MT3 so I brought a ER40/MT3 holder which increases my range to 1". The only advantage to the 3C setup is the ability to pass long stock through the tube as you mentions. ER40 is so much better in every way for my purposes. More range, grips stock with very light pressure, grips under/over sized stock very easy, does mare part, easier to open and close, and able to easily index/stop part.
Great video Joe , sorry I didn't see this about 2 months ago , I went the 5 c route .
5C is a good choice, just know their limits. I use 5C on my lathe and most of the lathes I have ever run.
Joe been watching your vids for some time now... I have to say your content is always 1st class and your knowledge on the subject outstanding..the mere fact you make an animation in real world materials superb for guys like me that can actually understand what you say and mean. Thanks for sharing. Great work...just make sure there are no spiders lurking in one of those collets !
Thank you very much.
Joe you cant put a larger size piece of material in an ER collet than what its rated for. Not even by a thou. The collets can only compress, not expand.
Cheers for the heads up on how the R8/5C can compress uniformly! I will stick with the ER 😃
I loved the mock-up Joe! Great discussion on collets that everyone uses. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Guy. Thanks for stopping by. Still waiting on that visit.
Our lathe uses 4C collets, which are stupid expensive and kind of suck. The PO made a spindle mount adapter to run R8, but that has it's disadvantages. I could make an adapter for ER which would be a much better solution, or get a bigger lathe that can run 5C, but honestly the 6 jaw does a good enough job for most of the work I do. Nice video Mr. Pieczynski, thank you for the info.
I was able to obtain a Jacobs rubberflex collet holder and quite a few collets The collets have an infinite range within each size from 1/16 to 1 ⅜ by ⅛ The closer uses a key the same size as a 20N drill chuck. It does well with less than perfect roundness.
Thanks Mr Pieczynski. This is a very helpful video to anyone who is tired of slipping drill bits. Ah yes, i'm starting with an ER20 collet holder and some mid range collets, wish me luck.
Hi Joe, an excellent explanation as always.
Normally, I have no difficulty with differences in terminology between the UK and USA, but when it comes to lathe centres, the system common in the USA doesn't really make sense. You accidently got it "right" at the beginning of the video.
The terms, "live" and "dead" centre, predate the adpotion of any kind of tailstock centre that ran in bearings.
A workpiece rotates around a dead centre, whether that centre is at the headstock or tailstock end.
A live centre rotates with the work. Some older textbooks go a little further and say a live centre is also driven (as it is when in the lathe spindle). If undriven, it's just a bearing centre or running centre.
When you get into cylindrical grinding, which can use a live or dead centre in the headstock, this difference causes some confusion.
Traditionally, live centres were unhardened, so that they could be trued up in situ in the spindle.
Good points, never really thought about that but make perfect since.
Thanks for the message.
I've been at this a long time ( since 1976 full time ) and have always gone by the belief that a solid center, regardless of its placement, is a dead center. A center containing bearings that allow the tip to rotate independent of the taper shank is a live center. A dead center can be used at both ends of a workpiece, but once the spindle starts turning, the dead center then becomes a live center because it spins with the part. If a tail stock center is truly dead, it stays stationary and would require the anti seize lube you normally have on it.
The easy way to see what is the common belief is to look in a catalog for lathe centers. Live has bearings so it can move with the workpiece, and a dead is solid.
From the old books I've read, Paul is correct in the original meaning. But words and meanings change over 150 years. So I think most machinists refer to ball bearing centers as live centers, and non as dead centers. If we accept that, we can all move on.
I love collets. I see you also have a colchester lathe. Nice to see British lathes so popular in the USA!
Great machines. Been running them for 30+ years.
Cool man, Ya I'm designing a tool which needs a quick release chuck/collet/*whatever it just needs to grip a rod* So >>> this video is very helpful as now I understand more and won't have to discover these intricacies which you share. Wisdom and practical experience are king.
Great stuff, Joe! I use ER32 collets when ever I can. R8s only for cutters of the correct size. 5C primarily in a collect block, or an indexer.
Why would one choose 5c over ER apart from being able to screw in a depth stop? your channel is such a massive help. So much knowledge...
5C is a very popular choice for lathes. Not just for the inner stop potential, but lever style closers can get them to repeat on the 'draw back / closed " position very repeatedly. Thats very handy in a production environment for controlling the length of a part. They aren't very forgiving when stock varies too far from nominal though. Like .002 is almost too far. ER collets are slotted on both ends for a parallel / cylindrical closure. This offers a wider range of diameters each size can hold, but I haven't seen a closer that will get them to repeat like a 5C.
@joepie221 Dělal jsem držák kleštin ER 32 pro svůj soustruh, který je v předu v kuželu vřetena a držen "drawbar" skrz vřeteno do zadní části. Drawbar mám trubku, která se šroubuje do držáku kleštin a zarazí se o konec vřetena. Tam je zároveň držák dorazu, který jde skrz celé vřeteno až ke kleštině a umožňuje mi nastavit doraz na celou délku vřetena a ne jen možnost jako je u 5C. Sleduji tvůj kanál již dlouho a líbí se mi tvůj způsob vysvětlování. Je to velký přínos znalostí pro mě. Jsem z České republiky. Hodně zdaru
Really good info and demonstration (animation) with the wood. Feeling better about my decision to obtain my ER32 inch & metric collet sets. Thanks Joe ~ Richard
Congratulations on 100K !!! +++You are the Man +++ Best tech videos on UA-cam, in my opinion.
Thank you very much.
Thank you Joe for a very informative video. It will really help me in setting up my small home shop, thanks again!
Just awesome explanation of why. Thanks Joe, now I know what to look for.
Hey Joe,
I have to correct you on your shout out regarding your boring bars. You said you got them from "Shark River machine" and actually they are from Steve Barton @ "Solid Rock machine"
Just in case anyone is looking for a GREAT boring bar. I talked to Steve just the other day, and he mentioned that you had given him very positive feedback!
Thank you for the "low-down" on the collets!
I'm smarter today than I was yesterday.
Take care, thanks for sharing...
Razor!
Hey Razor, good to hear from you. You are absolutely correct and Thank you for putting it in a comment. I met many great UA-cam hosts at the Bar Z 2018 bash and recorded the source of that bar as SRM. When I prepared the video, I just picked the wrong SRM to acknowledge. My Bad. I believe I corrected myself in a later video. Are you going to the Lindale TX festival in Nov? Take care.
@@joepie221
All good Joe....
I have been known to mix things up too. When I did a short video on the things I got from the Bash, I was calling my buddy Greg every name other than his...oh yeah, he called me out believe me!!!😲😲😲
I would love to go to this event in Texas as I would visit a number of my friends I've met here, and it would be a great Birthday gift for myself as it does fall on that day, but I just don't have the funds I need to go!
Maybe I should start a,
"go fund me page" huh?
Love your videos man, and wish I had half your skills!
Take care,
Razor!
Awesome video! Great visual props.