Some of us do build your projects, I did. I followed your instructions, and the part came out perfect. Used my little rotary table from Grizzly and the graduations came out perfect. Thanks Mr. Pete.
You know Mr Pete I've been watching your videos for many years now and I've always felt bad when you say I know you're not going to do this and I know you're not following along with this because it sounds like you're just discouraged from years of teaching kids that probably couldn't care less for the most part. But you got to remember we came to you we are interested we want to learn from you we are fascinated by your knowledge and we want to be able to do what you do. We find value in watching your videos and learning from your years of experience you're important to us! So please never think that we're not following and that we will never do this because we wouldn't be watching otherwise
@@mrpete222 this might be a good opportunity for me to ask you a question if you don't mind? I have never used be broaching tool before and I just bought a single one for some gears that I'm going to do. I thought it came with the bushing but it doesn't so I'm going to make one but I don't know the depth. Do broaching tools go by depth or width it's a 3/16 keyway. And I'm sure you guessed it'll go into a 5/8 inch bore I simply don't know the depth I should cut the slot in the broach bushing if you could give me a hint I would be eternally grateful Sir Edit Well I just reread that, it's almost unintelligible, I was half asleep when I wrote it, and I apologize To make that clearer, I am making a 5/8 brooch bushing... I obviously know the diameter but I don't know the slot depth. I suppose I could gauge the depth on the shortest teeth of the brooch cutting tool but I would really rather not guess. I hope that makes it clearer LOL
I use the rotary table with a controller a lot. The variety of methods how to do a workpiece is what teaching is about. You don't have to apologise for it, thanks for the great video.
I absolutely love watching your videos. There are many hobby machinists who wouldn't be able to enjoy machining like they do without your videos. One of the reasons I find your lessons so helpful is because they are so long and all the content is so very well explained. Thank you so much and keep them coming.
Mr Pete , I watched your videos of South bend gearboxes, as I'm soon tearing my wide range on my 10inch . Very informative , clear , concise, and personable. You put me in mind of the teachers I enjoyed . Keep it interesting you do. If you so desire, I'll happily purchase your wick kit for your out of pocket as I've my 10 and a 9 to go thru n straighten up. Best regards, brent andrade.
I'm not a machinist, but watching your videos, and especially this one, so far, gives me a new appreciation for the craft. As an aside, I'm hand sanding the handle of a knife I'm making for my boss while watching, well probably more listening than viewing, and I'm finding my concern for precision has increased by quite a bit. I'm really stoked to have stumbled upon your channel! Oh, one more thing, I appreciate that you don't time lapse every last step in a procedure. It's more like actually being in the shop with you rather than not.
Lovely project those carriage stops. However seeing i dont have an indexer to help scribing the graduations accurately, it will be a model with a protruding screw outward to help me when i do the project. Being in SA, things are ridiculously expensive here. Most of all i enjoy your videos, they are really helpful in achieving set targets
I've watched all your videos on the dividing head Mr. Pete, therefore I followed your explanation here perfectly! That stop looks great! Thanks for sharing and as always thanks for the education!
Lyle, that component was a work of art. Any metal shaping with machinery and hand, is an art form. I wish I had the basics of machinery to make parts. You have nice detailed training videos, and thank you.
Now I need to make this project, well sort of. I made a simple jig for my table saw to set the cut very precisely but unfortunately it is such a bugger to set that I rarely use it. So seeing this with the knob tells me that I need to design something that will include that feature. Of course no metal lathe or mill so I need to do a bit of thinking to find a way to make it. But your inspiration with this project is exactly what I need to get it done. As always, thank you for your presentations, they are so interesting and thought provoking.
thanks so much for showing ways to make a graduated dial. I like the way you did for the Logan lathe, it's very easy and just ordered a 50 tooth saw blade for my indexing. $8 plus some fiddling to make a index pin, but so much cheaper than a dividing head! in fact, you can buy 10 different blades + make your index jig at 1/3 or 1/2 the cost of a dividing head!
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, a lot of good information. Been many years since I worked in a Fab shop in Alaska that also had a machine shop. Semi retired from truck driving now, hoping to do some welding and machining to stay busy. Thanks.
Those dual-ended tool holders( 6:12 ) are nice. I'd say that the stamping is the hardest operation because it is the least predictable in terms of outcome in the entire job. Nice video as always.
The stops turned out really nice. (I wonder if the phrase "turned out" has it's origin in machining?) I really loved the indexing for the scribes. Thanks for another great series Mr. Pete!
Thanks for doing the micrometer Version of this item. It explained the part I was curious about...Scribing the graduations. I enjoyed this very much. Regards, Solomon
Quote: " I know you are not following that"... Thank you for creating and sharing. Actually I was kind of following but struggling just enough so that your comment was really funny coming when it did.
An idea for your dial stamping is use the jig you made for the cross feed dials but machine a reducing collar that screws into the jig and appropriate spacers for the stamp channel
I really enjoy your videos. Sometimes when using the stop when the carriage is very close to the headstock, making it hard to read the dial or get the wrench on the bolt heads, I will move the stop to the back-side way. The stop then hits the carriage in the middle area so is farther from the headstock.
I'm making one of these asap in my downtime at work..for work and a spindle plug for a stop for face and chamfering pins on both ends, I'm gunna mill 2 slots 1 for full range with the dial and a 2nd offset slot that will only move it back and fourth a 1/16" depending what your doing
The bad thing about most stamps is that the letter or number is not centered exactly on each stamp. So even if you have a jig sometimes they don't line up in a straight line. I experimented with a cheap set once and ground each one down to get the number more centered and it worked really well but I had to take so much off of some of them that I'm afraid they might bend. The only set I ever had that was centered good and had the correct spacing by holding them side to side was a rather expensive set of 1/2 ones. You do get what you pay for I guess. Great video as always Mr. Pete thank you!
As to scribing the lines, (and advance apologies if you have done this in other videos) could you place the rod in a 3 jaw on the lathe, then thread the knob on to it. Then set up a dial indicator on the face of the knob. Scribe a line with a tool held in the tool post, then rotate the knob by hand (rotate the knob on the thread, not the chuck)till the indicator moves .001, then scribe another line. Repeat till done.
If there's any stop on the mill, you could have used that for the engraving on the drum put a 0.1" shim in between for the short scribes and remove it for the long ones.. Great job, nice part.. i might one day make one for my father's Emco Unimate SL Lathe..
One question, Lyle. Regarding your graduations in relation to the threads. Are the graduations just for reference? How do you know if the graduations actually advance the screw the labeled distance when building?
That's why he used the 20 pitch thread, it'll accurately advance the stud 50 thousandths per full revolution so it'll also accurately move each marked division.
Back when parts were more expensive than labor, pistons were knurled to increase their diameter. For use with larger rings to fit borded out cylinders.
mrpete222 I don't know if it matters or not but I didn't hear you mention sizing the knurled piece so the knurl pitch works out right. Did you figure it off camera or does it not matter? Thanks
Ok, I thought that might be the case. Thanks for responding. I really enjoy your videos and am looking forward to seeing the rest of the Stuart engine. It looks as though it turned out well.
I like the safety message at the beginning. My personal number one safety rule is don't put your hands where you wouldn't put your pecker. I've seen several folks lose digits doing something completely ignorant.
Hi Clark--Yes, I would very much like them. You can find my address at 2:20 in this video. WINTER NIGHT SCHOOL Video Courses by tubalcain atlas bridgeport south bend lathe--THANK YOU
Lyle, why is it that you Yanks are so obsessed with using Transfer Punches. You already had a drill guide with the top part of the carriage stop. You should have spotted through with the 3/8 " drill until it made a full diameter of a good 1/8 ", good practise for tapping, then changed to a smaller size and then finally the tapping size. You would then be guarenteed that the holes lined up and did not pinch. I am in the UK and been a toolroom engineer for 40 Years, I have never seen a transfer punch, let alone used one. All they are is a rod with a centre on, just a glorified center punch, that when you go to drill can wander off. If the part gives you access to get a punch and hammer in, you can use a drill, albeit it may have to be a long series or even an extension one. By the way, I have just looked on E-Bay for transfer punches, only 1 UK seller, all the other sellers are in the USA, that must tell you how rare they are in England.
Some of us do build your projects, I did. I followed your instructions, and the part came out perfect. Used my little rotary table from Grizzly and the graduations came out perfect. Thanks Mr. Pete.
Awesome
👍👍
You know Mr Pete I've been watching your videos for many years now and I've always felt bad when you say I know you're not going to do this and I know you're not following along with this because it sounds like you're just discouraged from years of teaching kids that probably couldn't care less for the most part. But you got to remember we came to you we are interested we want to learn from you we are fascinated by your knowledge and we want to be able to do what you do. We find value in watching your videos and learning from your years of experience you're important to us!
So please never think that we're not following and that we will never do this because we wouldn't be watching otherwise
Thanks
@@mrpete222 this might be a good opportunity for me to ask you a question if you don't mind? I have never used be broaching tool before and I just bought a single one for some gears that I'm going to do. I thought it came with the bushing but it doesn't so I'm going to make one but I don't know the depth. Do broaching tools go by depth or width it's a 3/16 keyway. And I'm sure you guessed it'll go into a 5/8 inch bore
I simply don't know the depth I should cut the slot in the broach bushing if you could give me a hint I would be eternally grateful Sir
Edit
Well I just reread that, it's almost unintelligible, I was half asleep when I wrote it, and I apologize
To make that clearer, I am making a 5/8 brooch bushing...
I obviously know the diameter but I don't know the slot depth.
I suppose I could gauge the depth on the shortest teeth of the brooch cutting tool but I would really rather not guess. I hope that makes it clearer LOL
I use the rotary table with a controller a lot. The variety of methods how to do a workpiece is what teaching is about.
You don't have to apologise for it, thanks for the great video.
Thanks
I absolutely love watching your videos. There are many hobby machinists who wouldn't be able to enjoy machining like they do without your videos. One of the reasons I find your lessons so helpful is because they are so long and all the content is so very well explained. Thank you so much and keep them coming.
Thank you very much & Thanks for watching
Fully agree with Alan Solomon. Each step is well explained and the appropriate length. Each scene is expertly done and quite enjoyable.
Lyle is a good editor, just as he is a machinist .
Mr Pete , I watched your videos of South bend gearboxes, as I'm soon tearing my wide range on my 10inch . Very informative , clear , concise, and personable. You put me in mind of the teachers I enjoyed . Keep it interesting you do. If you so desire, I'll happily purchase your wick kit for your out of pocket as I've my 10 and a 9 to go thru n straighten up. Best regards, brent andrade.
👍👍
I'm not a machinist, but watching your videos, and especially this one, so far, gives me a new appreciation for the craft. As an aside, I'm hand sanding the handle of a knife I'm making for my boss while watching, well probably more listening than viewing, and I'm finding my concern for precision has increased by quite a bit. I'm really stoked to have stumbled upon your channel! Oh, one more thing, I appreciate that you don't time lapse every last step in a procedure. It's more like actually being in the shop with you rather than not.
I’m so glad you found my channel. Hope you like the content
This looks good but those lathe dials are pure art.
Thanks
Lovely project those carriage stops. However seeing i dont have an indexer to help scribing the graduations accurately, it will be a model with a protruding screw outward to help me when i do the project. Being in SA, things are ridiculously expensive here. Most of all i enjoy your videos, they are really helpful in achieving set targets
Clear as mud, sir. But you have a way of making mud transparent! Enjoyed! Thanks, Mr. Pete!
I went back and watched videos 177, 178, 179 and 180. I had forgotten how really great they were! Thanks again!
Another brilliant tutorial from the worlds favourite shop teacher! Thank you Mr Pete.
Thank you so much
Great work here. I am a woodworker, but videos like this make me want to cram a metal lathe into my shop...
I've watched all your videos on the dividing head Mr. Pete, therefore I followed your explanation here perfectly!
That stop looks great!
Thanks for sharing and as always thanks for the education!
I can't say it enough. ..... Thank you so much amigo, for everything you do for the community here on UA-cam!
Lyle, that component was a work of art. Any metal shaping with machinery and hand, is an art form. I wish I had the basics of machinery to make parts. You have nice detailed training videos, and thank you.
Hey Lyly, Hope you had a good time in Sunny Florida!... Florida could use a man like Tubalcain to teach these young men the true way to a fine craft!
Thank you again Mr. Pete for taking the time to put these together. Always informative
Now I need to make this project, well sort of. I made a simple jig for my table saw to set the cut very precisely but unfortunately it is such a bugger to set that I rarely use it. So seeing this with the knob tells me that I need to design something that will include that feature. Of course no metal lathe or mill so I need to do a bit of thinking to find a way to make it. But your inspiration with this project is exactly what I need to get it done. As always, thank you for your presentations, they are so interesting and thought provoking.
👍👍👍
Great project for me as I have a Sear's Atlas 6" lathe (in storage right now) to work/play with. Thanks for the time spent on this video, Greg.
Thanks for watching
thanks so much for showing ways to make a graduated dial. I like the way you did for the Logan lathe, it's very easy and just ordered a 50 tooth saw blade for my indexing. $8 plus some fiddling to make a index pin, but so much cheaper than a dividing head! in fact, you can buy 10 different blades + make your index jig at 1/3 or 1/2 the cost of a dividing head!
Two thumbs up!- These are just like the one my SB lathe-I remember watching the video w/the 100 tooth saw blade set up-really a Great video!
Excellent video mrpete. I have already started a stop with a couple of modifications for my Boxford lathe. regards from the UK
Thanks for watching-good luck on yours
just keep talking and explaining your process I enjoy it don't worry about it babe I think that's too long a lot of us enjoy the explanation in detail
Mr pete I would kill to be able to have some type of apprenticeship under you...U sir are one of a kind...Keep up the good work
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, a lot of good information. Been many years since I worked in a Fab shop in Alaska that also had a machine shop. Semi retired from truck driving now, hoping to do some welding and machining to stay busy. Thanks.
Thanks for yet another great project. I have started making one of these, modified slightly to fit my Logan 210.
Those dual-ended tool holders( 6:12 ) are nice. I'd say that the stamping is the hardest operation because it is the least predictable in terms of outcome in the entire job. Nice video as always.
True--Thanks for watching
Beautiful work, sir! I really appreciate the tutorials. Very well done.
Thanks
The stops turned out really nice. (I wonder if the phrase "turned out" has it's origin in machining?) I really loved the indexing for the scribes. Thanks for another great series Mr. Pete!
Thanks for posting these videos! I hope that you will post a series of videos showing your number stamping jig!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for watching- I show a jig in an old vid on the logan dials
Thanks for the video, I find all of your work interesting.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for doing the micrometer Version of this item. It explained the part I was curious about...Scribing the graduations. I enjoyed this very much. Regards, Solomon
That sharpie idea is great.
Thanks,
John
Mr. Pete I love you're videos. I learned of you from Adam (ABOM79) and I love your teaching method. Please keep the videos coming and God bless.
Thanks-welcome aboard
Quote: " I know you are not following that"... Thank you for creating and sharing. Actually I was kind of following but struggling just enough so that your comment was really funny coming when it did.
An idea for your dial stamping is use the jig you made for the cross feed dials but machine a reducing collar that screws into the jig and appropriate spacers for the stamp channel
another well made video ty Mr. pete... yours looks better then the atlas oem equipment
Well done! I enjoyed this lesson. Very Interesting.
Thanks for watching.
I really enjoy your videos. Sometimes when using the stop when the carriage is very close to the headstock, making it hard to read the dial or get the wrench on the bolt heads, I will move the stop to the back-side way. The stop then hits the carriage in the middle area so is farther from the headstock.
Good idea
i love all of your videos....thank you for the knowledge and thought behind it...good job sir
Thanks for watching Jerry. Haven't heard from you in a while
I was starting to think you sold the Hardinge lathe. I'm glad you didn't. I loved the stamping. I would have been more crooked. Thanks.
I'm making one of these asap in my downtime at work..for work and a spindle plug for a stop for face and chamfering pins on both ends, I'm gunna mill 2 slots 1 for full range with the dial and a 2nd offset slot that will only move it back and fourth a 1/16" depending what your doing
The bad thing about most stamps is that the letter or number is not centered exactly on each stamp. So even if you have a jig sometimes they don't line up in a straight line. I experimented with a cheap set once and ground each one down to get the number more centered and it worked really well but I had to take so much off of some of them that I'm afraid they might bend. The only set I ever had that was centered good and had the correct spacing by holding them side to side was a rather expensive set of 1/2 ones. You do get what you pay for I guess. Great video as always Mr. Pete thank you!
I loved the 2 last videos, The indexing and, scribing was very neat I'm not a machinist by any standards but i sure do find it interesting
I also really like the look of the old school square head bolts, round off the corners and put your "brand" on it and better than factory.
Great video. I need to make one of those for my Atlas!
I think the wash bottle (like the ones we used in chem lab) that you use are the best for dispensing and directing cutting oil.
9:38 what is the word at the top of the card? goodsomething
50 graduations
Great tutorial Pete now i have to invest in a milling machine lol 👍👍👍👍
YES--do it.
As to scribing the lines, (and advance apologies if you have done this in other videos) could you place the rod in a 3 jaw on the lathe, then thread the knob on to it. Then set up a dial indicator on the face of the knob. Scribe a line with a tool held in the tool post, then rotate the knob by hand (rotate the knob on the thread, not the chuck)till the indicator moves .001, then scribe another line. Repeat till done.
very nice work on the scribing of the dial
So do these suffer from the shifting problem you described episode 137 in which your solution was to go in between the rails?
I love your videos Thank you!
you do some nice work.
If there's any stop on the mill, you could have used that for the engraving on the drum put a 0.1" shim in between for the short scribes and remove it for the long ones..
Great job, nice part.. i might one day make one for my father's Emco Unimate SL Lathe..
+Jan Binnendijk good idea
You can use the spares on the other side of the carriage for left hand turning.
One question, Lyle. Regarding your graduations in relation to the threads. Are the graduations just for reference? How do you know if the graduations actually advance the screw the labeled distance when building?
That's why he used the 20 pitch thread, it'll accurately advance the stud 50 thousandths per full revolution so it'll also accurately move each marked division.
Does the knurler actually cut, or does it mostly just move material around?
Troy Jennings the knitter mostly moves metal but does cut some as well. knurling will increase the diameter of the part somewhat .
I thought it looked like it was a bit expanded. I couldn't see how those wheels got much of a cutting action when they roll rather than scrape.
Back when parts were more expensive than labor, pistons were knurled to increase their diameter. For use with larger rings to fit borded out cylinders.
mrpete222 I don't know if it matters or not but I didn't hear you mention sizing the knurled piece so the knurl pitch works out right. Did you figure it off camera or does it not matter? Thanks
Sizing is all foolishness. It ALWAYS works out with pinch type knurlers.
Ok, I thought that might be the case. Thanks for responding. I really enjoy your videos and am looking forward to seeing the rest of the Stuart engine. It looks as though it turned out well.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
You could color fill the scribe marks and your dial would be fairly close to the white face dial you have on the lathe.
Thanks for watching.
why does it have a key way ? why does the lathe lead screw has a slit all along the threads ?
Sir, what model is your Hardinge lathe ? Enjoy your channel and the way you present your videos
Nice project
Thanks
Wavy parallels at 30:25.
MrShobar they are friendly,they wave for everybody lol
job well dun thank you
Check out lacquer stick paint crayons for filling in the numbers and index lines.
Thanks for sharing sir...
is it a good idea to have the phone on -- and music blaring -- while doing the scribing? :)
good morning, thank you for your videos... sent you a message, I cant always see when I get messages, so thought I would mention it...
I like the safety message at the beginning. My personal number one safety rule is don't put your hands where you wouldn't put your pecker. I've seen several folks lose digits doing something completely ignorant.
User Name People lose peckers that way too!
oh I found a 50 tooth, 3-5/8 saw blade from Grainger if anyone's curious
Thanks
did you hear him, Cy?
Lyle - I have a set of 3/32 steel figures. You’re welcome to them if you like.
Hi Clark--Yes, I would very much like them. You can find my address at 2:20 in this video. WINTER NIGHT SCHOOL Video Courses by tubalcain atlas bridgeport south bend lathe--THANK YOU
mrpete222 OK got it
The numbers aren't a big deal... sometimes a little freehand look is okay.
I have never cut on the wrong side of the line either, :>)
Lyle, why is it that you Yanks are so obsessed with using Transfer Punches. You already had a drill guide with the top part of the carriage stop. You should have spotted through with the 3/8 " drill until it made a full diameter of a good 1/8 ", good practise for tapping, then changed to a smaller size and then finally the tapping size. You would then be guarenteed that the holes lined up and did not pinch. I am in the UK and been a toolroom engineer for 40 Years, I have never seen a transfer punch, let alone used one. All they are is a rod with a centre on, just a glorified center punch, that when you go to drill can wander off. If the part gives you access to get a punch and hammer in, you can use a drill, albeit it may have to be a long series or even an extension one. By the way, I have just looked on E-Bay for transfer punches, only 1 UK seller, all the other sellers are in the USA, that must tell you how rare they are in England.
Not being negative here but, being lazy, I would omit all the extra zeros .