In this video, I show to make a #3 morse taper center drill driver. I also show how to ANNEAL hardened steel. Be sure & subscribe, comment, & watch all 650 of my shop videos.
Mr. Pete, LeVerne from Maryland here. To stop the gear cover door from drifting open, I siliconed a small square magnet inside the door's edge so it touches the head when the door is closed. It works very well. No more door flopping open when using the upgraded 12" lathe with the Quick Change Box on my Craftsman/Atlas lathe. It was produced about 1950. Thank you for the idea.
You're right that most viewers will never make a Morse taper center drill holder and also right about learning from seeing it explained as it is done. Thank you.
All of these videos are useful even if I never make this tool. It puts my brain in the mindset of machining, which for me is trying to figure out a way to hold the work and hold the cutter in various ways that can improve accuracy, rigidity, efficiency, etc.
I never had the chance to study this back in high school. But I want to tell you how much I have enjoyed the last few of tour videos, which I just discovered. I likely will not at the age of 60 ever do any of this, but it certainly is fascinating and educational. I hope that your videos are discovered by young people, as I think they could learn a lot! THANKS!
Well done! Your skill as a professional trainer/instructor shows in the quality of the presentation, the visuals and the dialog. Your training videos are task based and flow. The camera angles provide an excellent visual of the process. The commentary is informative and well rehearsed but not excessive. Your voice is pleasant and your grammar is appropriate for the training exercise. The durations of the various aspects of the tasks are of appropriate length to demonstrate expected results. Key knowledge items are reinforced with voice, text and visuals. I rate your presentations as "exceeds expectations" in my humble opinion. Thank you for these very fine tutorials.
I guess I'm 1 of the 2 that will actually be doing this! I've been looking for ways to solid up my center and pilot and this is a fantastic idea! Thank you!
thank you, I never comment on any videos because they are so good explained... but after months of learning from you I need to say THANKS!!!, your videos are so useful and inspiring to people like us.
I've been using one of those end mill holders for a center drill for a few years, I simply put a long set screw in the draw bar hole so the tail stock screw could eject it, no need for the brass wedge
When Springfield Armory began building the 1903 rifle, it was found that some of the receivers were blowing up! Colonel Hatcher discover that the receivers were tempered by eye with natural lighting (back then the factories used skylights for lighting) and on bright days the steel they used became extremely brittle. Hatcher said some were so bad they would shatter like glass.
Mr. Pete, how I wish you were MY workshop teacher, I hope your students appreciated the fantastic opportunity they were given. I doubt my dental technology students gave me a second thought as a teacher. Many thanks for you efforts producing these videos. Kindest regards. Joe.
Just found this one Mr. Pete. Great idea! I only have on factory holder for #5 with mt #3 so I have to use a #4 sleeve in my tailstock. It is split on the front end and hold on the flutes of the double ended center drill. Had it for about 22 years an am on my third center drill. Really handy. On another thought, just put that tapered piece front to back in the vise and it will hold just fine. Appreciate your vids. Never had a teacher except the Lord. Been learning since 1973. Ha! Keep on doing it.
Hi and thanks for a great video, you mentioned that from over 2k viewers that maybe 2 will make one, back in 1970s when I was an apprentice I made a set of 3 using the exact same way you have just done. It has brought back so many good memories that I can’t thank you enough, I have watched quite a few of your videos and now intend to watch the rest. Thanks again and keep up the good work, Ray
mr pete i am so glad you take so much time making and thinking these videos up to teach us dummies how to do things and i am letting you know i really appreciate it ty sir..
MrPete222, Thank You very much for all the very detailed videos you are putting out for everyone to gain good information from. I have owned a 12 x 36 Craftsman/Atlas lathe as a hobby piece in the garage, for around 30 years & after watching some of your practical videos,have a renewed interest in the lathe wanting to try out to teach myself some of these fairly easy to do items you create.
I inherited a pliers exactly like yours from my late father, who was a machinist for UPRR. so anything and everything you can share about the tool would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another great vid Mr. Pete. Annealing is something that every shop guy should know how to do. I didn't know you could buy double ended carbide lathe tool holders. I've always just just cut mine in half and stuck one out each end. My facing end has offset geometry so that I can put a 45 chamfer on the workpiece in reverse without changing the angle of the tool holder in relation to the axis of the spindle, huge time saver.
Good info Mr Pete. I modified draw bar type collets to tang type by inserting a piece of all thread at the appropriate length with a stop nut. I a pinch it will allow you to withdraw the collet with the tail stop crank.. Fred
Thanks Keith for all your efforts in showing tips and techniques, especially for the armchair machinists as you call them, me included. You have provided a great repository of knowledge for the less experienced among us. Just a couple of thoughts worth investigating - many drills are quite soft down the shank, and can be cut without the need of annealing. A quick rub with a file or hacksaw blade as you showed in the video will tell whats what. Also for the taper shanks meant to be held with a draw bolt, a small stud screwed in will act as a tang to help in the removal from the tailstock spindle. I have one such morse arbor which came with a screwed in tang, so I have a choice in using it in the tailstock or with a draw bolt. Finally congratulations on the recent gift from Niagara tools, it is nice to see all you UA-cam creators getting such great support from your machining industry. I would think that the cost of the big end mills that Keith Fenner and Adam Booth received would pay my expenses to visit the bash that Stan is putting on in California, with me coming from Australia;-) I would love to be there and my best wishes to all who do get to go to Stan's open house. Rob.
+Bill Lewis i have turned several mt3 shanks down to straight shanks on hss drills with regular hss tool bits i have never seen one thats hard they are always dead soft right after the flute ends. also quality hss has to be heated to 2300f to heat treat and anneal. i can bet you that little furnace didnt get it that hot,
i want to thank you, your such a good teacher! I just got a 9x3 south bend c model after watching your video the machine has almost no ware on the ways and has all the gears in great shape, i paid 700 bucks and has a 3 jaw plus a 6" 4 jaw plus lots of other goodies i think i got a really good deal. thanks again!!
I got a phonecall from a buddy last year he said I found something at an estate sale I was going to buy. What is it? he said it's a 9x4 South bend lathe with extra heads and a mountain of tooling for $300. They also have a smaller killing machine for 300 and whatever he finds to go with it! Needles to say I added a few tools to the shop! I plugged it in and cleaned it and been running it ever since. I couldn't believe it. This previous owner was a Harley Davidson tinkerer and the basement was slap full of parts.
Hi thanks for your videos as although I have a 52 year machining background I still learn something new!!!! Re annealing the best thing is to heat the object to cherry red and drop it in a bucket of lime powder the object cools down so slowly it will take up to 10 hours!!! Here in Malta lime is abundant as we use it to whitewash our houses:-)) I assure you this system works 100% you can anneal anything even HSS!
Just thought I’d let you know that I made one of these today out of a old mt2 counter bore. Worked great and a fun learning process. Thanks for the great idea.
Ahh the sweet smell of success Lol :). Tubalcain you are the funniest grumpy old bloke on youtube, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Take care.
Thank you mrpete222. Always enjoyable to watch your videos. The drivers are still available through machinist sources -- called Morse Taper Drill Drivers and run about $45 for MT3 with a #4 center drill hole -- but it's good to see re-purposing worn out tooling into other uses.
Sir, Great video and an important aspect that I was reminded of. At first I was thinking that the taper part of the sacrificial drill bit should be cut off in the abrasive (chop) saw. But then you showed that keeping it was important for subsequent operations like drilling and hack sawing. The teaching point is that one should consider all the operations that will be done so that they can be sequenced correctly for best results. Thanks for another wonderful vid. Eric
I looked at the special holder made by cleveland and worked out how to make a simple adaption. I made a 3MT from toughened black Bar (not ideal). I drilled the end with the chosen size of centre drill. Need to keep cleaning swarf out. Then I drilled a hole from each side off centre and drove hardened pins in to engage with the flutes. It works ! Because the centre drill does not have spiral flutes it doesn't try to screw out and in to the workpiece. It bottoms out in to the MT3 drilled recess. The pins stop it rotating. Given it some heavy use and no issues.
Lyle, I have the same taper that you have and it is also threaded for a draw bar. I don't use a wedge to get it out of the tailstock. I screwed a short length of rod into the drawbar hole and that makes it just that bit longer in the back end.
I use a morse tapered chuck to hold my center drills in my 6" Atlas lathe, but since the chuck sticks out quite far from the tailstock, sometimes the drill will wobble slightly. I need to make one of these to prevent the center drill from sticking out way too much. Thanks for the idea.
Lyle, You can machine the head of a bolt, the size of the draw bar threads, and just screw it hand tight into the end of the end mill holder. I thought you would have drilled and tapped for the setscrew while you had the drill bit it in the mill.
Awesome handy tool Mr Pete. Often I'll just scratch something with a file to see if HSS will cut something. Just an idea used it for 35 years. Files are cheaper than endmills lol.
Interesting video. If you have some slack in the Atlas lathe spindle you can just tighten the tapered bearings and get rid of it. Thanks for the video.
Mr. Pete Since the tool is hard to hold once the flutes are cut off, it would make sense to drill and tap for the setscrew at the same time you milled the flat John
Great video as usual...and I have to say I feel the same way about Starbucks. It must be an acquired taste and I can't afford the cost of acquiring it :).
I come from a hot glass background where we anneal glass I enjoyed learning about softening metal via the annealing and heating to a cherry red then cooling slowly annealing softening the hardened steel
Hello Mr. Pete222, Enjoyed your video as usual...Great stuff... One of the first things I made when I got my 7X14 micro lathe was about 6 # 2 Morse taper blanks... Then the very fist one became my #4 center drill in the same manner as you just shown on this video... What I would really like to make would be an offset center on a #2 Morse taper so as I can make tapers more easily than I normally do... I have seen such a device in an old Popular Mechanics magazine... Got to find it again and start building... You take care , enjyting all your fanatastic tool tips videos...Thank you,Frank
good video and good tip on re purposeing drills..need to make a few oh the dumore attachement ..again old popular mechanix use old lawnmower or small automobile connecting rod to mount grinder it mirrors what you have
You could make a tang to screw into the drawbar hole. We would bury our tool steel in lime to let it cool over a couple of days. The center hole you drilled with the finished product looked very concentric while the lathe was running. Great series.
Height adjustment for the DuMore mount might be done with either a small machinist jack or adjustable parallel. Place under the holder and on the slide top face, or on top of the toolpost to catch the toolholder adjusting screw. The former might be bit more stable by giving solid bearing, the latter allows using the toolholder nut for the adjustment as you work. I have not done this with a grinder, but have done it for a couple odd jobs over the years when finding TDC on a part.
Awesome Tip Sir Thank you.I'm going to make a set for the machines I use at work.#2,#3,#4 and a possible one for the # 5 Morse taper for the lathes and drill presses and even LG horz mill.Thanks
Doing a fair bit of improvised annealing and not having an electric H/T furnace in my shop yet I keep a coffee can of something like fireclay or bentonite handy to slow the cooling in. It cost about $5.50USD and the only inconvenience so far has been to figure out to do with the other 52lb of it.
That would be great if you show us how to turn a Mt3 for and with the Clausing lathe. Thanks for sacrificing that big drill to show us that trick!. Regards
another good tip would be to submerge the steel in a bucket of vermiculite, pearlite, or ash, once heated to critical, it will greater slow down the cooling process and anneal the steel really well, the slower it cools off from critical the better. personally i use crushed up insulating firebricks that crack and get replaced on my forge, works great for me. could also wrap it in ceramic fiber blanket, or leave it in a forge, furnace, ect, plenty other methods but the vermiculite works really well.
Certain drill bits do not require annealing, as the tangs can be cut off with just a hacksaw. I have made several of these holders from old drill bits and never annealed any of them. You can take a file to find out were they go from hard to soft. I have two of them that are threaded for small, (1/4" and 3/8") drill chucks from old dead cordless drills.
I am one of the two people lol I enjoyed making this project thank you
Mr. Pete, LeVerne from Maryland here. To stop the gear cover door from drifting open, I siliconed a small square magnet inside the door's edge so it touches the head when the door is closed. It works very well. No more door flopping open when using the upgraded 12" lathe with the Quick Change Box on my Craftsman/Atlas lathe. It was produced about 1950. Thank you for the idea.
Thanks--good idea
The teacher has tought once again. Great info thanks for sharing.
👍
“...I believe I’ll drill a center hole.” Liked that!
You're right that most viewers will never make a Morse taper center drill holder and also right about learning from seeing it explained as it is done. Thank you.
All of these videos are useful even if I never make this tool. It puts my brain in the mindset of machining, which for me is trying to figure out a way to hold the work and hold the cutter in various ways that can improve accuracy, rigidity, efficiency, etc.
👍👍
I never had the chance to study this back in high school. But I want to tell you how much I have enjoyed the last few of tour videos, which I just discovered. I likely will not at the age of 60 ever do any of this, but it certainly is fascinating and educational. I hope that your videos are discovered by young people, as I think they could learn a lot! THANKS!
+P.M. Laberge Thanks for watching
Take the plunge and buy yourself a little hobby lathe.Trust me you wont regret it and at some point you'll even wonder how you lived without it ;)
Thank you. I particularly appreciate the part on anealing, as I need to do that presently in the shop.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done! Your skill as a professional trainer/instructor shows in the quality of the presentation, the visuals and the dialog. Your training videos are task based and flow. The camera angles provide an excellent visual of the process. The commentary is informative and well rehearsed but not excessive. Your voice is pleasant and your grammar is appropriate for the training exercise. The durations of the various aspects of the tasks are of appropriate length to demonstrate expected results. Key knowledge items are reinforced with voice, text and visuals. I rate your presentations as "exceeds expectations" in my humble opinion. Thank you for these very fine tutorials.
Although my experience is minimal (hobbyist) , I enjoy watching the tubalcain series for the reasons you've stated.
I guess I'm 1 of the 2 that will actually be doing this! I've been looking for ways to solid up my center and pilot and this is a fantastic idea! Thank you!
👍
I learn so, so much from your videos. Thank you.
👍
thank you, I never comment on any videos because they are so good explained... but after months of learning from you I need to say THANKS!!!, your videos are so useful and inspiring to people like us.
I've been using one of those end mill holders for a center drill for a few years, I simply put a long set screw in the draw bar hole so the tail stock screw could eject it, no need for the brass wedge
Great tip Mr Pete. Once again your natural teaching ability reigns supreme
When Springfield Armory began building the 1903 rifle, it was found that some of the receivers were blowing up! Colonel Hatcher discover that the receivers were tempered by eye with natural lighting (back then the factories used skylights for lighting) and on bright days the steel they used became extremely brittle. Hatcher said some were so bad they would shatter like glass.
Mr. Pete, how I wish you were MY workshop teacher, I hope your students appreciated the fantastic opportunity they were given. I doubt my dental technology students gave me a second thought as a teacher. Many thanks for you efforts producing these videos. Kindest regards. Joe.
Just found this one Mr. Pete. Great idea! I only have on factory holder for #5 with mt #3 so I have to use a #4 sleeve in my tailstock. It is split on the front end and hold on the flutes of the double ended center drill. Had it for about 22 years an am on my third center drill. Really handy. On another thought, just put that tapered piece front to back in the vise and it will hold just fine. Appreciate your vids. Never had a teacher except the Lord. Been learning since 1973. Ha! Keep on doing it.
Hi and thanks for a great video, you mentioned that from over 2k viewers that maybe 2 will make one, back in 1970s when I was an apprentice I made a set of 3 using the exact same way you have just done. It has brought back so many good memories that I can’t thank you enough, I have watched quite a few of your videos and now intend to watch the rest. Thanks again and keep up the good work, Ray
mr pete i am so glad you take so much time making and thinking these videos up to teach us dummies how to do things and i am letting you know i really appreciate it ty sir..
MrPete222, Thank You very much for all the very detailed videos you are putting out for everyone to gain good information from. I have owned a 12 x 36 Craftsman/Atlas lathe as a hobby piece in the garage, for around 30 years & after watching some of your practical videos,have a renewed interest in the lathe wanting to try out to teach myself some of these fairly easy to do items you create.
Thanks for watching--glad you are interested again
I inherited a pliers exactly like yours from my late father, who was a machinist for UPRR. so anything and everything you can share about the tool would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another great vid Mr. Pete. Annealing is something that every shop guy should know how to do. I didn't know you could buy double ended carbide lathe tool holders. I've always just just cut mine in half and stuck one out each end. My facing end has offset geometry so that I can put a 45 chamfer on the workpiece in reverse without changing the angle of the tool holder in relation to the axis of the spindle, huge time saver.
Great action Mr. Pete I Love the super cool tips you have from many years in the Trade . Super Action !! Hej from Erik Ontario Canada .
Good info Mr Pete. I modified draw bar type collets to tang type by inserting a piece of all thread at the appropriate length with a stop nut. I a pinch it will allow you to withdraw the collet with the tail stop crank.. Fred
Very nice job on this project. I look forward to making one very soon.
Thanks Keith for all your efforts in showing tips and techniques, especially for the armchair machinists as you call them, me included. You have provided a great repository of knowledge for the less experienced among us. Just a couple of thoughts worth investigating - many drills are quite soft down the shank, and can be cut without the need of annealing. A quick rub with a file or hacksaw blade as you showed in the video will tell whats what. Also for the taper shanks meant to be held with a draw bolt, a small stud screwed in will act as a tang to help in the removal from the tailstock spindle. I have one such morse arbor which came with a screwed in tang, so I have a choice in using it in the tailstock or with a draw bolt.
Finally congratulations on the recent gift from Niagara tools, it is nice to see all you UA-cam creators getting such great support from your machining industry. I would think that the cost of the big end mills that Keith Fenner and Adam Booth received would pay my expenses to visit the bash that Stan is putting on in California, with me coming from Australia;-) I would love to be there and my best wishes to all who do get to go to Stan's open house.
Rob.
+Bill Lewis why can't you anneal HSS by heating it up? I seem to manage to do that often just grinding them here.
+Bill Lewis i have turned several mt3 shanks down to straight shanks on hss drills with regular hss tool bits i have never seen one thats hard they are always dead soft right after the flute ends. also quality hss has to be heated to 2300f to heat treat and anneal. i can bet you that little furnace didnt get it that hot,
i want to thank you, your such a good teacher! I just got a 9x3 south bend c model after watching your video the machine has almost no ware on the ways and has all the gears in great shape, i paid 700 bucks and has a 3 jaw plus a 6" 4 jaw plus lots of other goodies i think i got a really good deal. thanks again!!
Yes, that sounds like a good deal
I got a phonecall from a buddy last year he said I found something at an estate sale I was going to buy.
What is it?
he said it's a 9x4 South bend lathe with extra heads and a mountain of tooling for $300. They also have a smaller killing machine for 300 and whatever he finds to go with it!
Needles to say I added a few tools to the shop! I plugged it in and cleaned it and been running it ever since. I couldn't believe it. This previous owner was a Harley Davidson tinkerer and the basement was slap full of parts.
For my drawbar MT adapter, I modified a thumbscrew that I screw in the drawbar thread when I use it in the tailstock. The thumbscrew acts as the tang.
i sir your videos are use full to working in machine shop peoples.thank you very much
Thanks
15 min in. 10k people will watch this video. Lol yet over 200k have watched it now. Thanks for a great video. I'll be one of the 2 people making one.
👍👍
I believe that not only did you invent the center drill holder, but the weldon shank as well :-) Great video, Mr. Pete, as always. Thanks so much!
Another good one. Thansk as always for all the time you take to do these.
Hi thanks for your videos as although I have a 52 year machining background I still learn something new!!!! Re annealing the best thing is to heat the object to cherry red and drop it in a bucket of lime powder the object cools down so slowly it will take up to 10 hours!!! Here in Malta lime is abundant as we use it to whitewash our houses:-)) I assure you this system works 100% you can anneal anything even HSS!
Just thought I’d let you know that I made one of these today out of a old mt2 counter bore. Worked great and a fun learning process. Thanks for the great idea.
👍👍👍
That was the most informational video I have ever seen thank you DennisCarb
Thank you very much
Ahh the sweet smell of success Lol :).
Tubalcain you are the funniest grumpy old bloke on youtube, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Take care.
Very nice video, Mr. Pete. I liked the information on the annealing also.
Enjoyed the annealing just as much as the machining... Thanks
Cool video Mr. Pete, always enjoy watching you work and teach.
Really enjoy your video's. No crap, no political correct junk. To the point machine tips. Love em.
Another great shop built tool.
Thank you
Bill from Seattle
🤙
Maybe youve done a video on it, but Id love to see a video on how to align the head and tail stock and other lathe adjustment procedures etc...
i would like to see that as well.
I just recently watch a video by mrpete222 on the manufacturing of a tail stock alignment checking bar and the use of it to align the tail stock.
Another great shop tip Mr Pete
Thank you mrpete222. Always enjoyable to watch your videos. The drivers are still available through machinist sources -- called Morse Taper Drill Drivers and run about $45 for MT3 with a #4 center drill hole -- but it's good to see re-purposing worn out tooling into other uses.
This looks like something I could do. Now I don't feel so bad for ruining a large bit a while back. Thanks for posting another great video.
Sir, Great video and an important aspect that I was reminded of. At first I was thinking that the taper part of the sacrificial drill bit should be cut off in the abrasive (chop) saw. But then you showed that keeping it was important for subsequent operations like drilling and hack sawing. The teaching point is that one should consider all the operations that will be done so that they can be sequenced correctly for best results.
Thanks for another wonderful vid.
Eric
Beautiful work. I balk at cutting up those old MT drills. I'll probably get a blank and do that instead. Thanks professor!
Another first rate lesson, Mr Pete. Thanks
I’ll never make one, but this is the second time I’ve watched this video.
👍
The annealing part was very interesting to me. Great video!
I looked at the special holder made by cleveland and worked out how to make a simple adaption. I made a 3MT from toughened black Bar (not ideal). I drilled the end with the chosen size of centre drill. Need to keep cleaning swarf out. Then I drilled a hole from each side off centre and drove hardened pins in to engage with the flutes. It works ! Because the centre drill does not have spiral flutes it doesn't try to screw out and in to the workpiece. It bottoms out in to the MT3 drilled recess. The pins stop it rotating. Given it some heavy use and no issues.
Awesome
Thanks. 70 this June I'll take it as an earlier birthday present :-)
Great video and great idea to put use to a broken drill bit too.
Damn it, I am both the arm chair machinist and one of the two people that will make this. When I have the machines, I will make one.
Awesome👍👍
Lyle, I have the same taper that you have and it is also threaded for a draw bar. I don't use a wedge to get it out of the tailstock. I screwed a short length of rod into the drawbar hole and that makes it just that bit longer in the back end.
great way to recycle an old drill bit.. Thanks for sharing sir...
I use a morse tapered chuck to hold my center drills in my 6" Atlas lathe, but since the chuck sticks out quite far from the tailstock, sometimes the drill will wobble slightly. I need to make one of these to prevent the center drill from sticking out way too much. Thanks for the idea.
Lyle,
You can machine the head of a bolt, the size of the draw bar threads, and just screw it hand tight into the end of the end mill holder.
I thought you would have drilled and tapped for the setscrew while you had the drill bit it in the mill.
Nice project, I can see myself making a few different sizes, thanks for sharing.
Another excellent tutorial mrpete. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Great video! Perfect for a mini lathe where space is an issue
Thanks
Awesome handy tool Mr Pete. Often I'll just scratch something with a file to see if HSS will cut something. Just an idea used it for 35 years. Files are cheaper than endmills lol.
Yes, it was the perfect method to quickly determine the hardness
Great video. Love the key chuck holder
I use a 2" circular magnets, out of old large speakers, to hold my small tools on the lathe while working.
Interesting video. If you have some slack in the Atlas lathe spindle you can just tighten the tapered bearings and get rid of it. Thanks for the video.
Mr. Pete
Since the tool is hard to hold once the flutes are cut off, it would make sense to drill and tap for the setscrew at the same time you milled the flat
John
Yes I suppose. There are many ways of doing every job
Great video as usual...and I have to say I feel the same way about Starbucks. It must be an acquired taste and I can't afford the cost of acquiring it :).
great video. i use an allen head cap screw in the end of the piece which needs a tang. this works good.
Great video! I am going to give it a whirl. Thanks again Mr. Pete!
hello Mr Pete y like very much your vídeos and an greeting here from spain
nice job Mr Pete........,enjoyed it very much
I come from a hot glass background where we anneal glass I enjoyed learning about softening metal via the annealing and heating to a cherry red then cooling slowly annealing softening the hardened steel
Thanks. I have been in our local glass bottle plant many times. My neighbor was a Lear tender. I have watched the annealing
You could make a screw in tang for the end mill holder.
that was my thought.
Bob Canadien
I agree, you can buy them for about $6.00 on ebay.
great video Mr Pete. thanks
Hello Mr. Pete222, Enjoyed your video as usual...Great stuff... One of the first things I made when I got my 7X14 micro lathe was about 6 # 2 Morse taper blanks... Then the very fist one became my #4 center drill in the same manner as you just shown on this video... What I would really like to make would be an offset center on a #2 Morse taper so as I can make tapers more easily than I normally do... I have seen such a device in an old Popular Mechanics magazine... Got to find it again and start building... You take care , enjyting all your fanatastic tool tips videos...Thank you,Frank
Cool stuff Mr.Pete.
I'm sure I'll never make anything I see on this channel but it's fascinating nonetheless. Great stuff
I found one of these in my tool chest that I did not know that I had! it is very handy
good video and good tip on re purposeing drills..need to make a few oh the dumore attachement ..again old popular mechanix use old lawnmower or small automobile connecting rod to mount grinder it mirrors what you have
You could make a tang to screw into the drawbar hole. We would bury our tool steel in lime to let it cool over a couple of days. The center hole you drilled with the finished product looked very concentric while the lathe was running. Great series.
Height adjustment for the DuMore mount might be done with either a small machinist jack or adjustable parallel. Place under the holder and on the slide top face, or on top of the toolpost to catch the toolholder adjusting screw. The former might be bit more stable by giving solid bearing, the latter allows using the toolholder nut for the adjustment as you work. I have not done this with a grinder, but have done it for a couple odd jobs over the years when finding TDC on a part.
Very educational. Thank you. The grinding attachment seems to work well.
Nice video Mr. Pete! I take it it’s not necessary to re-heat treat that taper!
Thank you
Awesome Tip Sir
Thank you.I'm going to make a set for the machines I use at work.#2,#3,#4 and a possible one for the # 5 Morse taper for the lathes and drill presses and even LG horz mill.Thanks
OH BOY! The last time I saw one of those was in HS metal shop. That was in 1970!
I think i will have to make a couple of the double ended tool holders for my lathe
Thank you for making this video!
Looks like a neat project! I may make one. Thanks, Chris
Didn't know the magnetic thing... very cool!
Doing a fair bit of improvised annealing and not having an electric H/T furnace in my shop yet I keep a coffee can of something like fireclay or bentonite handy to slow the cooling in. It cost about $5.50USD and the only inconvenience so far has been to figure out to do with the other 52lb of it.
Another great video. As always.
I laughed out loud, I'm one of those thousands that armchair this whole operation.
A superb idea Mr. Peter. Just inform me what key-words should i put on "search" to find those blank MT2 shanks.
very good instruction and presentation many thanks
Thanks for watching
That would be great if you show us how to turn a Mt3 for and with the Clausing lathe.
Thanks for sacrificing that big drill to show us that trick!.
Regards
I enjoy your vids a lot.ive looked for atlas lathes in my area and everyone says mrpete has cleaned us out!! Lol
There is a pair of pliers at 1:40 in the video. I recall my uncle having one of them, but it's been decades since I've seen a pair.
another good tip would be to submerge the steel in a bucket of vermiculite, pearlite, or ash, once heated to critical, it will greater slow down the cooling process and anneal the steel really well, the slower it cools off from critical the better.
personally i use crushed up insulating firebricks that crack and get replaced on my forge, works great for me.
could also wrap it in ceramic fiber blanket, or leave it in a forge, furnace, ect, plenty other methods but the vermiculite works really well.
I love the Stars and Stripes!
Certain drill bits do not require annealing, as the tangs can be cut off with just a hacksaw. I have made several of these holders from old drill bits and never annealed any of them. You can take a file to find out were they go from hard to soft.
I have two of them that are threaded for small, (1/4" and 3/8") drill chucks from old dead cordless drills.
Just add a set screw into the draw bar hole so it will come out of your tail stock!
Mr Pete, I've just ordered a couple of old Mt3 Drill bits, so I can make one of these for my Atlas lathe
👍👍👍