Thank you, this was very informative. There is something very satisfying about taking a simple device that was almost meant to be disposable and telling it "No, you're not quite done, pal, there's still plenty of life left in you".
The thing I admire most of this technique is the "unconventional" repairs to an otherwise throw away item. Gutting the internal caps & installing external silver mica caps is ingenious. 👍
GE used a solder bath, like a flowing river of molten solder moving in one direction . The assembled boards are mounted securely on a chemically treated PC board and moves up river against the solder flow a lite oil is sprayed over the flow to make contaminants move to the side and run over the edge. Each connection is treated with flux. The molten solder quickly adheres the the bare metal pads sometimes the solder hardens poorly , creating a cold joint. Large mass leads are most prone to cold joints due to premature cooling. Each board is inspected for joint quality and repaired. Over time, and temperature the joints are tested. Some fail and need resoldering. Use lots of flux when you re-flow the solder. Dont use that new lead free solder!
1- The process you are describing is known as "wave soldering", 2- As I understand it, the oil on the surface of the solder bath, is there to act a "dross blanket" to keep the surface of the solder bath from getting contaminated by contact with the atmosphere, and 3- lead-free solder is AWFUL!!!
how is it with mounting the caps on the solder side of the pc board? if the caps are small enough, could we mount them right under the xformer with better results? just curious. have a star roamer with the disease so im gonna do my best
I don't take chances with the tiny coil wires. I take a pair of small cutters and cut the wafer covering the mica and remove it. It is not needed. I bend the top tab up and use an exacto knife to remove the mica caps. Then I stuff the coil back in the can and resolder into the circuit. Then for 1959-1960 models, I replace the caps with 100pf ceramics. Then re-align the radio. I've had great success with this method.
The GE 515F that I got at Kutztown in the spring has SMD in the 1st IF. I was going to quit on it but after seeing your video I’ll give a repair a try. Doesn’t work now so I have nothing to lose. Steve
Excellent!!!!!!!! I have an old 1958 truck radio that has the same problem. I have been putting it off but after watching your video I am going to do the repair. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by! Just be aware that your truck radio may have 262KC IF's instead of 455KC IF's. The silver mica cap may have a different value - maybe around 60-65 Pf Take care and stay safe!
So just putting the paper between the plates didn't make a serviceable capacitor? The plates didn't get pressed together, so maybe not. I never figured out what's so mysterious about mica. It's a great insulator, but.....?? I guess the external caps did the trick! Nice going! Thanks!
Hi. Good channel. I found you via Old64Goat. The strip that goes into the tuner creates a channel at the IF frequency (typically 45.75Mhz). Then you would have to add a UHF tuner that plugs into the VHF tuner. The UHF tuner has an oscillator and mixer diode to down-convert the UHF channel to the IF frequency. The old UHF tuners had no RF amp because they were too noisy. This minimized any added noise to the signal. The VHF tuner then acts as an additional IF amp stage to make up the gain with better S/N ratio. Sorry for the epistle.
Can you use a peice of plastic like what EVERYTHING is packaged in & cut to exact size as the old mica insulator instead of strips of paper or will it melt
Thank you for this. I have a 578 clock radio that is going to need this same thing done to it. Mine is so bad it almost instantly turns into a crackling mess.
Old64Goat sent me over here to check your channel out. I work on restoring old broadcast band radios as well as old Ham radio receivers for my collection and restore guns and rebuild car parts on my channel.. Oh and I subscribed to your channel. Nice job fixing up that cheap old GE. Thanks for sharing
I know it was a long video, but I just wanted to show step by step what's actually involved. This is one of those repairs that I think scares some folks away, but can be fixed. There are variations of this can as well, but it all comes down to a piece of silver mica sandwiched between two inductive metal elements. Hope you're feeling better! 73's
At 12:39 I can see what should be bare mica between the silvered cap areas. I've just cut this bare mica out. This will break the leakage path. Then I'll reinstall the plastic pressure piece and heat melt it with the tip of a soldering iron to keep it in place.
Well I screw up my first time doing this all four wires shaped ,then I remember your video after the fact ,I do have another transformer from a parts radio ,hope I will get it right I going to unfolded two of the wires,its not easy even when you are careful.thanks for your video.
Instead of lapped to insulate the contact prongs I was think heat shrink on them or cutting them shorter ,which I seen a couple of guys do that raising those find wires of scare me.but I see why you did it great job on the If cans ,I will keep your video on save ,it good reference to us novices.
...I thought the same thing- but 1- if the metal strips are insulated and overlapping, they form a tiny capacitor, 2- as for using heatshrink tubing, you need to remember that heat guns are very "broad brush" and are likely to damage the internal parts of the IF transformer. It's better to just cut out the excess metal strip.
I have got a Motorola Trans Portable car radio with noise burying the dial right at the front end. Little 262 khz cans. I fear it has caught up with us.
If the "old micas" are already bad, it might be difficult to accurately measure them- what's more, you'd have to disconnect one of the coil wires in order to measure the mica capacitor...
@@daleburrell6273 if its arcing over ie the static crashes it should test at low voltage. Eventually it will clear for a bit and when it does it plays very well and has excellent reception.
They make a version of that radio with two speakers ,and I have fork out for a bunch of a 100 pf silver mica caps ,Ali express has good prices on them .your video very helpful to us novices.since I have the same radio .someday I would love to talk with you .
I found a schematic for this radio that had values on it (after I made the video). I think the correct value for the orignal silver mica value was 110pf. I used 100pf, and was able to tune the coils to work sufficiently.
Hi Bob, Thanks for the shutout, I am glad you got more viewers to visit your channel. That is too small for me to see or work on, I did not see you add any silver mica caps on the IF can pins. Are you going to add them on the bottom of the PC board? What value caps would you use on those IF's? I enjoyed the video. THANKS again for the tubes.
all radios with those can have that silver mica? I have an old truetone sold by western auto supply that don't make a peep. Is there a way to determine what cap to install?
Thanks for the video, I just acquired a 5 tube GE Clock Radio from a garage sale, it had a loud hum when powered on, I replaced the dual Lytic Capacitor with 2 separate Caps, now the hum is gone but it has a very loud crackling static noise and I can't tune in any stations, after watching your video along some others I'm betting this one has the silver mica caps in the I.F. Cans and that is most likely the problem. now I just need to take time to tackle this one Thanks again, I hope I can use 100pf replacements.
I pulled one I.F. can and removed the Silver Mica Caps like you show in your video, reassembled, reinstalled can and installed 2 100pf capacitors in place of the silver mica. crackling static noise is now a lot less but still not receiving stations, next I will pull the other I.F. can and do the same to it.
I pulled the 2nd I.F. Can and did the same thing to it. added the 2 100pf Capacitors underneath the chassis. Radio works good now. also the clock is even working. Thanks again for the Great Video.
The best part is you have a vintage tube clock radio that works because you took the time to look into the why it did not work, and did the repairs yourself! Well done, bravo!
Did you ever get the can removed from the chassis? Most are easy to do. Contact me if you want, and I can help. Does it have the brass clip? Or is the can bolted on?
Thank you for the tutorial. Removing the caps wasn't as scary as I thought. But, I tacked in some 100pf caps and I'm not receiving any stations. I get a buzz where I think one should be though. Any suggestions? Thank you for putting these up, they're very helpful.
I knew the originals were 110pf. When they're that close, you can usually tune them up with little or no effect on performance. I would not deviate more than 10-12 percent of original value, as more would have some effect on performance. Just my opinion....... RW
Wouldn't it be neat if the Chinese would make knock offs of these if cans? Even if they only lasted 15 years. Probably the most frustrating AA5 I worked on was a Philco that would distort the longer it was on. Audio cap coupling, no. AVC cap, no Tube? etc, etc . Still haven't nailed it the grid bias on output tube keeps drifting, I'm lost.......................Maybe defective IF can?............Thanks for the tutorial.................
I have to go through this w/ a dozen or so cans in my Hammarlund HQ-180 and its intimidating. I can and have aligned radios but nothing with such a complicated and lengthy alignment procedure. Where did you get the LCR meter? Do they make an enclosure for it?
I found this on EBAY for 15 bucks. At that time this was just a loose tester that could go into a housing or as I did, mount it to a piece of wood. Now they have them mounted in a plastic box for the same money or cheaper. Thinking about buying a second one :) RW
@@Radiowild but then the new "real" caps will be in parallel with the pseudo caps in the can- adjusting the alignment - or am i being dense? {i'm new to valve technology but not electronics in general.} ive just acquired a murphy a262 to renovate - ive not yet been brave enough to power it up so im trying to leard as much as i can before i start ....... "more input" as an '80's robot once said
@@andytipping70 The cardboard caps have too big a gap to conduct or store energy. It probably would make a difference of there was more than 400 volts traveling through it. Your comment has merit, but in this case it's not electrically possible unless wet or a significantly higher voltage and/or current going through it. Oh by the way, it would probably melt the coiled wire as well. I just chose cardboard as a quick and effective insulator.
Silver mica disease is a common issue with a lot of vintage radios. Thanks for the video, at least the issue can be addressed, albeit it's delicate surgery. LoL How did you determine the value of caps that you needed to replace those in the IF can? Are they a typical value? The schematics never show those values.
Typically you can use anything between 60 - 100 pf. As long as you can tune it to 455 kc during alignment it will be fine. These type cans are happiest between 80 - 100 pf for tuning.
Pete Ciallella You're forgetting that his "special tester" determined that the inductance of the coils was approximately 1 mH. If you know the inductance, and you know the resonant frequency (455 kHz), you can calculate the capacitor size.
This was very helpful as I am working on my first radio. I think my radio is very similar to yours. Did you have to take the mica out of both IF cans? Maybe this is a dumb question, but can you clean the mica and reinstall?
Scott - I did both IF cans. You could clean the leaching silver and make them work. It's just that they will leach again, and you'll be back to where you began.
Tedious but fruitful - Well said.... I have never had the experience of dealing with the trimmers on the variable oscillator - I call it the "bread slicer". Been just lucky I guess - Hey, thanks for stopping by. ;)
@@jeffreyhaynes5774 That's true- but remember that the IF transformer tuned circuit comprises the collector/plate load for the IF amplifier- therefore, to get maximum gain, you want to have the the coil impedance as high as possible. That means that you should use the smallest capacitor that will work.
That really does nothing! You might get lucky and make the migration path microscopically break, but will soon return. I stopped listening to people with these easy remedies that don't always work. Do the job right!
Your video on reparing SMD was good, but whatever you were chomping on while you were talking was very annoying. Please don't have gum or such in your mouth while your talking to make a radio. 73 Harvey KM4JA
Thank you, this was very informative. There is something very satisfying about taking a simple device that was almost meant to be disposable and telling it "No, you're not quite done, pal, there's still plenty of life left in you".
The thing I admire most of this technique is the "unconventional" repairs to an otherwise throw away item. Gutting the internal caps & installing external silver mica caps is ingenious. 👍
I have viewed many u-tube videos on this subject. Yours seems to be the most logical method.
Can you provide information on the tester, or how to build one? thanks very imformative.
People who respect and preserve the past have a future.
I have a similar one that has plenty of audio but receives NO STATIONS and all the tubes are good. Excellent job!!
GE used a solder bath, like a flowing river of molten solder moving in one direction . The assembled boards are mounted securely on a chemically treated PC board and moves up river against the solder flow a lite oil is sprayed over the flow to make contaminants move to the side and run over the edge. Each connection is treated with flux. The molten solder quickly adheres the the bare metal pads sometimes the solder hardens poorly , creating a cold joint. Large mass leads are most prone to cold joints due to premature cooling. Each board is inspected for joint quality and repaired. Over time, and temperature the joints are tested. Some fail and need resoldering. Use lots of flux when you re-flow the solder. Dont use that new lead free solder!
1- The process you are describing is known as "wave soldering", 2- As I understand it, the oil on the surface of the solder bath, is there to act a "dross blanket" to keep the surface of the solder bath from getting contaminated by contact with the atmosphere, and 3- lead-free solder is AWFUL!!!
how is it with mounting the caps on the solder side of the pc board? if the caps are small enough, could we mount them right under the xformer with better results? just curious. have a star roamer with the disease so im gonna do my best
I don't take chances with the tiny coil wires. I take a pair of small cutters and cut the wafer covering the mica and remove it. It is not needed. I bend the top tab up and use an exacto knife to remove the mica caps. Then I stuff the coil back in the can and resolder into the circuit. Then for 1959-1960 models, I replace the caps with 100pf ceramics. Then re-align the radio. I've had great success with this method.
The GE 515F that I got at Kutztown in the spring has SMD in the 1st IF. I was going to quit on it but after seeing your video I’ll give a repair a try. Doesn’t work now so I have nothing to lose. Steve
very informative, never see very many RF cans/IF transformers taken apart and fixed!
Thankyou. Great detail and illustration of how to tackle the job
Excellent!!!!!!!! I have an old 1958 truck radio that has the same problem. I have been putting it off but after watching your video I am going to do the repair. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by! Just be aware that your truck radio may have 262KC IF's instead of 455KC IF's. The silver mica cap may have a different value - maybe around 60-65 Pf Take care and stay safe!
@@Radiowild Original one says 262.5 kc. I ordered a new one. Thanks for the reply.
@@ajw6715 Good luck with the repair, and thank you for watching!
I find trouble shooting and a good repair to be very gratifying, regardless of the "value of the piece. Thank's for the video.
So just putting the paper between the plates didn't make a serviceable capacitor? The plates didn't get pressed together, so maybe not. I never figured out what's so mysterious about mica. It's a great insulator, but.....?? I guess the external caps did the trick! Nice going! Thanks!
If there's space within the can, you can do it (like the cans Zenith used). These small ones, it's impossible.
Hi. Good channel. I found you via Old64Goat. The strip that goes into the tuner creates a channel at the IF frequency (typically 45.75Mhz). Then you would have to add a UHF tuner that plugs into the VHF tuner. The UHF tuner has an oscillator and mixer diode to down-convert the UHF channel to the IF frequency. The old UHF tuners had no RF amp because they were too noisy. This minimized any added noise to the signal. The VHF tuner then acts as an additional IF amp stage to make up the gain with better S/N ratio. Sorry for the epistle.
They now have smaller mica caps or you can look for smt caps. I have seen in some of these schematics it is 110 mmf for AM radio.
Maybe I missed it, but did you get the capacitor values from a schematic or did you calculate them. Did the tinning go well?
Learning about electronics and having fun at the same time.
I have a 60s zenith with that problem,thanks for the excellent how to video now I have a fighting chance to get her off the do it later shelf.
Thank you for this video. I have GE from 1952 that crackles really well.LOL It is a clean, original chassis with a good cabinet...worth repairing.
Can you use a peice of plastic like what EVERYTHING is packaged in & cut to exact size as the old mica insulator instead of strips of paper or will it melt
You do very nice work I have the same chais and I probably will have to follow your video to fix mine too
Probably the most -used tools on my bench are several different sized and shaped hemostats.
They are an invaluable tool to have around! Thanks for stopping by!
Thank you for this. I have a 578 clock radio that is going to need this same thing done to it. Mine is so bad it almost instantly turns into a crackling mess.
Old64Goat sent me over here to check your channel out. I work on restoring old broadcast band radios as well as old Ham radio receivers for my collection and restore guns and rebuild car parts on my channel.. Oh and I subscribed to your channel. Nice job fixing up that cheap old GE. Thanks for sharing
Nice work and good advice, someday I may need to do that.
I know it was a long video, but I just wanted to show step by step what's actually involved. This is one of those repairs that I think scares some folks away, but can be fixed. There are variations of this can as well, but it all comes down to a piece of silver mica sandwiched between two inductive metal elements. Hope you're feeling better! 73's
Nice save of a piece of radio history. Your newest subscriber Steve
Welcome! Thanks for stopping by! RW
At 12:39 I can see what should be bare mica between the silvered cap areas. I've just cut this bare mica out. This will break the leakage path. Then I'll reinstall the plastic pressure piece and heat melt it with the tip of a soldering iron to keep it in place.
This is a great humble video! Very informative also. Did the schematic specify that the original caps were 100pf?
I believe the originals were 110 pf. They can be tuned with the 100 pf's
Well I screw up my first time doing this all four wires shaped ,then I remember your video after the fact ,I do have another transformer from a parts radio ,hope I will get it right I going to unfolded two of the wires,its not easy even when you are careful.thanks for your video.
Instead of lapped to insulate the contact prongs I was think heat shrink on them or cutting them shorter ,which I seen a couple of guys do that raising those find wires of scare me.but I see why you did it great job on the If cans ,I will keep your video on save ,it good reference to us novices.
...I thought the same thing- but 1- if the metal strips are insulated and overlapping, they form a tiny capacitor, 2- as for using heatshrink tubing, you need to remember that heat guns are very "broad brush" and are likely to damage the internal parts of the IF transformer.
It's better to just cut out the excess metal strip.
Im ready to try this on a junk radio now. Thanks fir the tutorial !
Think I got one with this problem. I got it recapped and sounds like thunderstorms in reciever
I have got a Motorola Trans Portable car radio with noise burying the dial right at the front end. Little 262 khz cans. I fear it has caught up with us.
What should i use to measure the value of the old micas so i can get the same exact value. Also what voltage are these replacement micas?
If the "old micas" are already bad, it might be difficult to accurately measure them- what's more, you'd have to disconnect one of the coil wires in order to measure the mica capacitor...
@@daleburrell6273 if its arcing over ie the static crashes it should test at low voltage. Eventually it will clear for a bit and when it does it plays very well and has excellent reception.
They make a version of that radio with two speakers ,and I have fork out for a bunch of a 100 pf silver mica caps ,Ali express has good prices on them .your video very helpful to us novices.since I have the same radio .someday I would love to talk with you .
I found a schematic for this radio that had values on it (after I made the video). I think the correct value for the orignal silver mica value was 110pf. I used 100pf, and was able to tune the coils to work sufficiently.
Hi Bob, Thanks for the shutout, I am glad you got more viewers to visit your channel.
That is too small for me to see or work on, I did not see you add any silver mica caps on the IF can pins.
Are you going to add them on the bottom of the PC board?
What value caps would you use on those IF's?
I enjoyed the video.
THANKS again for the tubes.
Yes, he added the mica caps to the bottom of the pc board. It starts at 18.00 minutes.
old64goat ...don't you mean, "shout out"(?)
Great job. You have inspired me.
all radios with those can have that silver mica? I have an old truetone sold by western auto supply that don't make a peep.
Is there a way to determine what cap to install?
I like this technique - ua-cam.com/video/Z45qWis9wcc/v-deo.html
Great job. Thanks for the info. I like the radio too !!
Thanks for the video, I just acquired a 5 tube GE Clock Radio from a garage sale, it had a loud hum when powered on, I replaced the dual Lytic Capacitor with 2 separate Caps, now the hum is gone but it has a very loud crackling static noise and I can't tune in any stations, after watching your video along some others I'm betting this one has the silver mica caps in the I.F. Cans and that is most likely the problem. now I just need to take time to tackle this one Thanks again, I hope I can use 100pf replacements.
I pulled one I.F. can and removed the Silver Mica Caps like you show in your video, reassembled, reinstalled can and installed 2 100pf capacitors in place of the silver mica. crackling static noise is now a lot less but still not receiving stations, next I will pull the other I.F. can and do the same to it.
I pulled the 2nd I.F. Can and did the same thing to it. added the 2 100pf Capacitors underneath the chassis. Radio works good now. also the clock is even working. Thanks again for the Great Video.
The best part is you have a vintage tube clock radio that works because you took the time to look into the why it did not work, and did the repairs yourself! Well done, bravo!
Thanks, I don't have the equipment to do an I.F. alignment,as long as the radio works fairly decent I guess I won't worry about that.
Ddd Ddd A signal generator doesn't cost that much, but I suppose it wouldn't be worth it if you're only going to fix just one radio.
Great job very delicate work for sure
Are the caps silver plates (Ag) -- if it is silver, then why? Its a cheap GE radio?
I have GE from 1954 that I'm repairing and it has SMD. I'm having trouble figureing out how to remove the if transformer form the chassis.
Did you ever get the can removed from the chassis? Most are easy to do. Contact me if you want, and I can help. Does it have the brass clip? Or is the can bolted on?
Great vid! I have a Heathkit fm tuner I will try this on. John
Thank you for the tutorial. Removing the caps wasn't as scary as I thought. But, I tacked in some 100pf caps and I'm not receiving any stations. I get a buzz where I think one should be though. Any suggestions? Thank you for putting these up, they're very helpful.
Answered my own question. Admit first you can do a stupid thing, then you are able to unscrew what you screwed up.
@@joecarson8281 so what was the fix? You leave everyone wondering....
@@LouinVB I had the caps running 90 degrees from the way the should have.
Great job how did you know to use 100pf mica?
I knew the originals were 110pf. When they're that close, you can usually tune them up with little or no effect on performance. I would not deviate more than 10-12 percent of original value, as more would have some effect on performance. Just my opinion....... RW
ww929 ...a little bird told him(?)
Wouldn't it be neat if the Chinese would make knock offs of these if cans? Even if they only lasted 15 years. Probably the most frustrating AA5 I worked on was a Philco that would distort the longer it was on. Audio cap coupling, no. AVC cap, no
Tube? etc, etc . Still haven't nailed it the grid bias on output tube keeps drifting, I'm lost.......................Maybe defective IF can?............Thanks for the tutorial.................
I have to go through this w/ a dozen or so cans in my Hammarlund HQ-180 and its intimidating. I can and have aligned radios but nothing with such a complicated and lengthy alignment procedure. Where did you get the LCR meter? Do they make an enclosure for it?
I found this on EBAY for 15 bucks. At that time this was just a loose tester that could go into a housing or as I did, mount it to a piece of wood. Now they have them mounted in a plastic box for the same money or cheaper. Thinking about buying a second one :) RW
Radio wild I just bought 2 of them...
sgath92 How did it turn out for you with the Hammarlund?
thing i dont get is - if you "insulate with a piece of cardboard! - are you not just making a paper capacitor all over again?
Yes. Will not matter though, since the new silver micas are already in place
@@Radiowild but then the new "real" caps will be in parallel with the pseudo caps in the can- adjusting the alignment - or am i being dense? {i'm new to valve technology but not electronics in general.}
ive just acquired a murphy a262 to renovate - ive not yet been brave enough to power it up
so im trying to leard as much as i can before i start .......
"more input" as an '80's robot once said
@@andytipping70 The cardboard caps have too big a gap to conduct or store energy. It probably would make a difference of there was more than 400 volts traveling through it. Your comment has merit, but in this case it's not electrically possible unless wet or a significantly higher voltage and/or current going through it. Oh by the way, it would probably melt the coiled wire as well. I just chose cardboard as a quick and effective insulator.
well done and with great patience¡
Thanks! Great CCR at the end!
Your shop looks like mine in the cellar.
I am fixing the RF Transformers, but I Will use Mica trimers capacitores.
That will work!
Silver mica disease is a common issue with a lot of vintage radios. Thanks for the video, at least the issue can be addressed, albeit it's delicate surgery. LoL How did you determine the value of caps that you needed to replace those in the IF can? Are they a typical value? The schematics never show those values.
Typically you can use anything between 60 - 100 pf. As long as you can tune it to 455 kc during alignment it will be fine. These type cans are happiest between 80 - 100 pf for tuning.
Thanks!
Pete Ciallella You're forgetting that his "special tester" determined that the inductance of the coils was approximately 1 mH. If you know the inductance, and you know the resonant frequency (455 kHz), you can calculate the capacitor size.
You mean you passed up watching some mindless-sitcom to fix this nice old radio? (says the guy that's just as guilty!) Great video!
Very entertaining and informative, thanks.
This was very helpful as I am working on my first radio. I think my radio is very similar to yours. Did you have to take the mica out of both IF cans? Maybe this is a dumb question, but can you clean the mica and reinstall?
Scott - I did both IF cans. You could clean the leaching silver and make them work. It's just that they will leach again, and you'll be back to where you began.
Take a drink every time he says "BASICALLY" !!!
I basically have that habit - Gulp!
Very good information to learn. Tedious but fruitful. Thanks. Have you replaced the silver mica on the trimmer caps on the variable oscillator?
Tedious but fruitful - Well said.... I have never had the experience of dealing with the trimmers on the variable oscillator - I call it the "bread slicer". Been just lucky I guess - Hey, thanks for stopping by. ;)
One of the inductors measured 1 mH, and I calculated that a 122 uuF capacitor is needed for a resonate frequency of 455 kHz.
Capacitance in AM radio tuning IF cans are not exact ,get it close and alignment does the rest.
@@jeffreyhaynes5774 That's true- but remember that the IF transformer tuned circuit comprises the collector/plate load for the IF amplifier- therefore, to get maximum gain, you want to have the the coil impedance as high as possible. That means that you should use the smallest capacitor that will work.
When it comes to GE radios made from the mid 50s until the end of the tube era, it's not if they develope SMD; it's WHEN.
Well said!
I paid $8 for this tester. Keep the leads short to improve the test.
WHere can I get this tester??
I was just thinkin bout "co co commotion" yesterday!
Seems that there's quite a bit of co co commotion trying to get life back in order! Thanks for stopping by! RW
This works for me thanks
Love it! ;-)
Those wafers are 120pf. Just sayin'
I noticed on Allen Chang's channel, that he simply sprays contact cleaner into the tops of his IF cans to take care of the silver Mica disease
That really does nothing! You might get lucky and make the migration path microscopically break, but will soon return. I stopped listening to people with these easy remedies that don't always work. Do the job right!
old64goat send me here:)
Silver and mica,,,,, who would think they would revolt and turn into a disease?,,,,,, What is the world coming to? lol.
skycarl ...I guess you can't trust ANYBODY-!!!
Nothing worse than hearing someone chewing gum while explaining something. Good information being passed along, but the cud chewing is disgusting.
Sorry.... Don't do that anymore. Was a substitute for when I puffed. Thanks for watching.
Your video on reparing SMD was good, but whatever you were chomping on while you were talking was very annoying. Please don't have gum or such in your mouth while your talking to make a radio. 73 Harvey KM4JA
Sorry bout that...... No Mo Gum! ..... Soreez....... RW
MrHarveyluke ...I guess you can't please EVERYBODY-!!