You are blessed with the unique gift of the ability to explain your actions AND humility, I have worked wood for 60 to 70 years and I learn something almost every video.
For somebody like me who is new to all this woodworking stuff, you have described how to use the router perfectly for a novice. As so many have said, you have a skill not only at woodworking but at describing perfectly how to use the tool, without waffling on about other things. You have inspired me to go and make some jigs straight away. Thank you
I had to chuckle at "If anybody is still watching" .. thinking to myself.. are you freaking kidding me? We're glued to every word. The name "Inspire" is a perfect fit. Thanks again for fabulous content.
For anyone that wants a commercial option I own the Bosch centering cone. The metal rod has a 1/4” and 1/2” side with a separate plastic cone so it can be used on any rougher with an adjustable sub base and either size collet. It runs for about $7 on Amazon. Hope this helps.
Hi Jody, This video blew my mind and to think I was doing it incorrectly by using the straight edge of the router base all this time! Thank you so much for this little tip, it's much clearer now after seeing you do it. Couple of weeks back I was making a box and dados for putting in dividers in and I wasn't paying attention and slightly moved the router off the straight edge and immediately the dado strayed off path, this actually happened 3 more times! Just loving your honest videos and gems of knowledge that comes with it.
Getting back into router work after a layoff, and it is amazing how much I did not know. Just never thought much about the layout of the sub-base plate....Thanks for making it simple to understand...
Awesome advice. I'm a 60 year old rookie wood worker (just getting started). I'm a draftsman but I'v always admired carpenters, finish carpentry craftsmen and general woodworking. One thing, centering can be verified using a metal ruler with a hole at one end using the shaft you used to place the centering jig. Greetings from Puerto Rico and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Funny you mentioned this because I originally did that as well, I just needed a system that was easier for most folks to understand. Thanks so much for watching!
I use the round edge too. I had not thought of the sub-base coming out of concentricity, will be making a entering cone on the lathe real soon to check my routers. Many thanks!
Hi there this is Dave from England I just come across your video and watched it all the way through hello what you said my perfect common sense a simple self centring jig that took 5-minutes to make ensures you never stray from the line I've used the round and the flat part before and I think I will adopt your way thank you very much for explaining it so well and all the very best stay safe and I'll keep watching
This is a wonderful video. I have to agree with the 'round side' approach. My trim routers have an indexed ring on the base and I like to make various sub-bases out of acrylic. I use a small end-mill and rotary table to solve the concentric problem and this allows me to rabbet in a ring for my template guides, but I really like your approach using a cone chucked in the spindle - hard to go wrong. Another way to measure is with a 0.25 pin (not a wood dowel) chucked in and then use a dial caliper to walk around the base. Just discovered your channel and like everything I've watched - content, presentation, and honesty...
Great video for all of those who never had to think about this before.Because I used a dovetail jig with a bushing,to fit the template I had to figure this problem out before.I used a hand sink bit with a wide pyramid shape,knocked it out the handle (8mm shaft thanks god) and grinded it flat in the drillpess.As long I work with different tools I never come across another tool that’s so versitile as a router.Seems like the different situations to use it,to get a job done is endless.Like Collin Knechts triangle base for framemoulding etc.Keep it coming.Well done,and sorry for my bad grammar.Greatings from Germany
You, sir are correct. I have a Craftsman router and i went out and checked it. Sure enough it is a lot more comfortable using the round part of the sub-base. I also noticed the metal part of my router is curved inward so it is difficult to put it in wrong, but I still have over sized holes in case I need to use them. Even so, I plan to a cone similar to yours just because it looks easier then trying to look around the perimeter to see if the sub-base is centered. By the way, as of now, I never plan to use the flat part of my router again. Thank You Very Much!
I’ve bought the Bosch centering cone, but to be honest the quickest centering method I found, which is straight from the manual itself, is using the screws included with the router in the bags that are made to insert in the sub base for centering with their cone shaped heads.
Top class video and very helpful to me as a hobby woodworker. When my router is facing towards me it has a grooved centre (center) mark on the base so I know that I'm ploughing a straight line. Best wishes from Ireland.
This is awesome. I am new to wood working and was really wracking my brain on how to get good clean cuts like this. My last attempt was successful enough but was a royal pain and would not have looked good if it hadn't been mostly hidden by the rest of the piece. So I am looking forward to trying this out.
Oh man, this explains the issue I had the other day. Not an experienced router user and assumed the flat part of the base was for following a fence/edge. Well afterwards I had little variations in my cut and I put it down to my skill level. Will use the round part of the base from now on. Thank you very much
I'm doing my first cabinetry project ever and using a router to make shelf dados, and this was invaluable advice. My dados wobbled a bit, but not as badly as they would have if I'd been using the straight side. Thanks! and subscribed.
Some good tips there.Thankyou. I made an 18mm rebate/rabbet jig similar to yours but with a snug fit when running along the straight part of the base as well as touching the opposite rounded part. Being 6'2",I have no problem reaching across a 24" board for full width rebates in cabinets. I also included a 6mm base under the rails which was cut through with the 1st cut using an 18mm cutter,much like a circular saw straight guide. That way I can simply align the cutout in the jig with either edge of the intended rebate for perfect results,with a single pass, every time.(Just remember to have the jig the right way round which is easy due to marking the baseplate outline on the 6mm ply base.) Everything was sanded to P180 before assembly so it runs pretty smoothly,especially with a dab of camelia oil on the contact areas once in a while. I fully agree with your point about ergonomics though and if I was ever unlucky enough to be doing rebates all day,I'd probably consider your approach!
I've never been very router savvy so this was great info. The centering rang very true with me because doing layout for work i have to actually true up my levels and plumbrods. A lot of people wouldn't think that levels get out of well level but they do. Good practice to make sure your tools are staying plumb, level and square.
I never gave whether or not my router base was centered a second thought. I have had the sub base off too...thanks for a great video and perfect advice.
I was wondering why use the round side too, you automatically think the straight edge is better, now I know the correct method. Thanks for putting things straight, very clear, calm explanation. Sometimes we call those divider calipers in the UK.
nice trick, I have one sub base that someone tried to modify so it is not good to use to center off of but you could use a compass to center things up. quick and easy.
Great solution for centering the subbase.. A drill bit would be great to put the cone on. Everybody has some and you can use the one you created the hole in the center of the cone
Just watched this excellent video. I just bought a brand new router and expected the round base plate to be centered and the diameter to be consistent. Unfortunately it was neither meaning it is only possible to "center" the base plate when measured at certain places on the plate. I think this may be a more common problem than is appreciated. Looks like I will need to build a new, more accurate, base plate. Thanks, Larry
Excellent content as usual. Can always pick up some great tips while attending Inspire Woodcraft school. Also, like your coffee cup on the workbench too. Cheers.
So simple, it's a "why didn't I think of that?" moment. Thanks for this simple solution. I always used the flat and far too many times I failed to keep it flat to my guide.
You my friend have a skill to explain at a level that is easy to grasp and understand which is very helpful to me as a “Woodworkerwannabe”. Enjoy your channel very much👍
Good production but a much simpler way to cut very accurate dados is to use a top bearing flush cut bit and take the router base totally out of the measurement equation. Clamp a straight board at the top or bottom of tour dado location. Place a scrap of the exact width material next to the clamped board and finally clamp a second straight board on the opposite side if the scrap. Remove the scrap, place the router on top of the clamped boards, and plunge the router bit down into the work piece. The top bearing on the bit will be guided by both of the clamped boards.
I have the exact same router. I use a milescraft base plate that removes the flat edge. The kit also comes with a centering pin to make sure the bit is in the center of the plate. The base also holds bushings so never have to change it out.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I will have to look into that. Have you ever tried the factory Bosch bushings with the plunge base? I always mean to get them but then I never have that big of a need for them so I always pass it up.
@@InspireWoodcraft actually, i have to correct myself. The milescraft is smaller than the baseplate. I only use it for my spiro graph. The powermatic base is the one that is bigger than the baseplate. That is the one i use with a guide. I have the port cable bushings set that i picked up at a yard sale for $5 over 10 years ago. They screw into both the milescraft and the powermatic. I also picked up the craftsman spirograph that came with the miles craft baseplate and 2 brass bushings at the same yard sale with about 30 router bits. The spirograph is amazing. 3 templates lets you do around 50 designs. Also came with templates to do letters and numbers.
The type of router you have there usually has a metal guide fence and when that is put on the router you can see that it is positioned to either side of the round base. So what your saying here makes perfect sence. Good video. 👍🏻
You can use the bosch Or most centering cones on most routers. It it has a rod 1/2" On one side and a 1/4" Rod on the other side of the cone. So it fits both collets and the cone is tapered on both sides. Typically it's used to center a router bit collar. In case you don't have a collar but want to center a base whose center opening is bigger than the cone diameter use a disk of wood stuck in center with a centered hole in between..
Another great video, the teacher in you is great to watch. In te case of this particular video, despite already knowing a lot of what you were explaining, I was still invested in it. That tells a lot about how well you convey things in an interesting manner that keeps viewers riveted and coming back. Keep up the good work and stay safe. Greetings from Portugal
The only time I had a problem with my 1.75 PCS was when I was ripping a long 8/4 board of walnut that had tons of internal stress. The board squeezed the hell out of the blade and riving knife and I ended up tripping the saws circuit breaker. It was my fault for forcing it through and not having a ripping blade on. But it's done great with all the 8/4 stock I've put through it. I do like the fact that I can upgrade in the future, but unless I plan on ripping 3" thick boards constantly, I don't think I will be upgrading any time soon
Centring cones will be transferable from one router to another without any problem. It’s just a conical end to a 1/4” or 1/2” shank to fit your collet. Doing this with a guide bush also means you don’t need a large diameter cone.
Great video. My favourite routers are round based like the Makita 3612C and the Triton routers. That's a great idea, much more simple and probably accurate than the method i currently use. Although i have never had a problem with accuracy I will check my round base routers using the divider method tomorrow. Thanks.
You know the more woodworkers set up their equipment with a mindset like a machinist ( as far as calibration goes ) the better his or her results will be.your router setup is a perfect example..nice job all around...stay safe...
Thank you for the intelligent, informative videos - I learn something from each one. I have the same Bosch router (I think). Mine was part of a kit - two bases and accessories in a plastic suitcase + a centering cone. Yours, not?
Salt of the earth guy... I am a handyman, doing an gym cabinet with a customer I have worked with for years. This tip on the router set up was awesome.
I've had to figure these things out myself over the past few years of owning a router, and this video literally covers all the bases (pun intended). I do wanna add that when installing a router in a router table, using the same centering technique can be valuable if you want to add a permanent ruler on the table's surface. That allows you to subtract/add half the diameter of the bit being used and set the fence with a bit less fumbling around with calipers - although setting to a line is usually more accurate anyway (and better yet, making test cuts in scrap first. something I often fail to do)
Great explanation! Weird side note: Just last night while routing 3/4" dados for a channel system, I eventually realized my base being slightly off center and me rotating the router a bit to avoid the clamps on my straight edge, those dados were perfect while the others were too tight. But the fluke of me realizing if I rotated the router I could then widen the dado a hair on the return pass and get them dialed for the channel inserts.. then coincidentally learning the flip side of that with your lesson, kinda funny.
I've had this trouble with the flat side as well. I use the round side. Less drag also. I would not have told anyone this till I saw this video. Lol. I'm always doing things wrong when some other know it all is around. I generally stop what I'm doing when people pull in for 2 reasons. One is that ya can't talk with all the noise. The other is that everyone is a know it all. Lol.
I get a lot of comments from folks that tell me I'm wrong all the time, so I get what you're saying. I think some people just can't wrap their heads around the possibility of things working differently than how they think things should work.
To be sure, the Manufacturer has to be "reputable" to ensure it is actually a round circumference to start with. Other than that it is a very sound system. How to deal with a plate that is not "round"? Another video!!!!
Hey Jody, just have to say your brilliant, well versed, and sagacious in your woodworking and tutorials. Thank you for all the info. It all makes great sense. Unrelated to the video, I noticed in the background you have a setup with two mitre saws. I’m curious why? Thanks again. And I’m bummed I just saw this and missed the flashlight bundle sale. ;-/ but will try to support along the way thru your affiliate link.
Great video Jody, you explain things very well. When you explain something in a video and a question pops up in my mind your answering it in the very next sentence, it seem like you think of all the questions that people can possibly think of and you answer it right away. I swear you could be a teacher. Well I guess you are if you look at it because people learn from your channel. Thank you professor Jody. Lol 🤓🎓📏📐🔨📖. Looking forward to your next video. P.S. Don't get stressed out about making more videos. Don't let this happen to you🤪🤯.
Ha! It's hard not to feel some sort of pressure to constantly be putting out something. I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement. Thank you!
Thank you! You taught me things I had never thought of! This is great I now have knowledge before even trying and screwing up. Been a little intimidated by my router to only using it in the router table. Know I am going to venture into using the plunge base! Thank you again excellent video! I too chuckled at "If your still watching". Of course I am!
Gained a Sub from this video! I was using the flat side instead of the round edge. Now, I can create perfect dados with my trim router so I don't need to get a table mounted one till I can afford one.
Excellent explanation, thanks! Maybe one could use a little stainless steel funnel instead of the cone., so that you can also see inside of it when adjusting the sub-base? Just a thought... :)
Sir, Thank you for an interesting and informative video. It's all perfectly logical, especially for that kind of router. I have some experience that runs contrary however. 1 - Using the round part of the base against a straight edge (as you demonstrate) requires that the workpiece be an inch or so wider than if the flat edge be used. 2 - We all know that: with the straight edge to your right (as you demonstrate with the T square) you draw the router towards yourself so that the cutting force presses the router base against the straight edge. Propelling the router in the opposite direction has the opposite effect and provides a force tending to drift the router away from the straight edge unless held firmly. So providing we propel the router in the right direction (towards you in this example) it won't have the tendency to drift that you suggest at 5:04. Further, if edge planing with the router, drift isn't a problem as it only cuts fresh air and the router can be passed again if necessary. 3 - If you're cutting along (not across) a long workpiece, on your particular router you can still use the circular part of the base, opposite the flat. However some routers have a pair of flats. This isn't without advantage: it enables narrower work (by about 2") to be worked in a slot or dado jig. 4 - At 13:30 you play dawn the need for precision to "Several thousandths of an inch". I use a Mitutoyo vernier caliper and aim to work to a few thou. It makes the difference between force fit, snug fit and sloppy fit. Stay well. Regards, Clive.
You know when I saw the title to this video I was like, I know which way to use a router, I don't need no help with my stinkin router.... Well after watching the video I did need help with my stinkin router and I learned several things. Great video.
Good thinking and good advice, I know when ever I using a cutting device i.e. saw router drill etc I want to feel the cutting not the friction of the guide I am using, and also pay attention to the cut line, motor RPM/sound, so having one less thing to pay attention to is a very good thing. and Probably Rocks too ?
Question: I'm making a router sled and I'm unsure if I should use the round or flat sides against the rails. On my router I've got two flat sides and two round sides. Which sides should I take my measurement from to create the spacing between the guide rails... the two rounded sides (which would mean the controls are in the correct position for operating)? Or use the flat sides against the rails which I'd assume helps keep things stable while making the cut. Any advice from anyone is appreciated
Great video. I was really interested in the flashlights, but when I went to the site, I got a warning that it isn’t safe and my personal information could be exposed. No sale for them!
I have a Bosch router and the centering cone. It will work with other routers. It's just a metal pin that one end is for 1/2" collet and other end is for a 1/4" collet and slide the cone on it to center.
So I'm in the proces of buying a cheap router and actually this was a part of one of my main concerns - I'm kind of paranoic about the fact that the base might not be a circle really, just an oval shape. Thx for idea of centering anyway ^^
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃 Another idea is to replace the black base with one totally round made of plywood. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Somehow your vids are the only I watch till last second. Great stuff. When you showed in the first part how you make those cuts I kept wondering - why is he not using this flat side, it would be more precise, if he turns a little, the bit will wander from the path... beep, WRONG. It will not. Damn, I love such ideas. BTW I can mount a t-shaped ruler on my cheap router as a "guide" (to cut close to the edge), used it once and it did not work. Now I know WHY ;-) I think the only way such "guide" could work is if it had 2 mounting points (front and back of the bit), bearings on both sides, a system to mount it straight... Terrible idea ;-)
impressive ill definitely keep this in my back pocket. I made a 2 foot by 4 foot router table thats flat to 0.003 in at the center from the edge and i abuse the hell out of my router bits making dados and edge trim, best part is that the table collects 95% of all dust because the dust is extracted thru the center hole instead of the fence. Additionally my table saw is on casters and at the exact height as the router table so i can use the fence on the saw to give me infinite length.
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Your explanation makes sense. What would be a good use for the flat side? Why does it exist?
You are blessed with the unique gift of the ability to explain your actions AND humility, I have worked wood for 60 to 70 years and I learn something almost every video.
This is the second video I have seen suggesting using the round side and it works and makes perfect sense.
You’re a scientist man. I love your explanations and always learn something
For somebody like me who is new to all this woodworking stuff, you have described how to use the router perfectly for a novice. As so many have said, you have a skill not only at woodworking but at describing perfectly how to use the tool, without waffling on about other things. You have inspired me to go and make some jigs straight away. Thank you
I had to chuckle at "If anybody is still watching" .. thinking to myself.. are you freaking kidding me? We're glued to every word. The name "Inspire" is a perfect fit. Thanks again for fabulous content.
Thank you. Resourceful is another word you used that is important. More people need to think outside the box. Again thank you.
Such an awesome comment. Thank you very much!
Agree totally!
Thanks for explaining why my cut may have been skewed on my last project, I'm happily learning how to use a router.
For anyone that wants a commercial option I own the Bosch centering cone. The metal rod has a 1/4” and 1/2” side with a separate plastic cone so it can be used on any rougher with an adjustable sub base and either size collet. It runs for about $7 on Amazon. Hope this helps.
Hi Jody,
This video blew my mind and to think I was doing it incorrectly by using the straight edge of the router base all this time!
Thank you so much for this little tip, it's much clearer now after seeing you do it. Couple of weeks back I was making a box and dados for putting in dividers in and I wasn't paying attention and slightly moved the router off the straight edge and immediately the dado strayed off path, this actually happened 3 more times!
Just loving your honest videos and gems of knowledge that comes with it.
Getting back into router work after a layoff, and it is amazing how much I did not know. Just never thought much about the layout of the sub-base plate....Thanks for making it simple to understand...
OF COURSE I'm still watching! Thanks for this excellent discussion. Especially the DIY centering cone. That's on my to-do list!
Awesome advice. I'm a 60 year old rookie wood worker (just getting started). I'm a draftsman but I'v always admired carpenters, finish carpentry craftsmen and general woodworking. One thing, centering can be verified using a metal ruler with a hole at one end using the shaft you used to place the centering jig. Greetings from Puerto Rico and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Funny you mentioned this because I originally did that as well, I just needed a system that was easier for most folks to understand. Thanks so much for watching!
Thank you for explaining how to make sure your router bits are centered.
I use the round edge too. I had not thought of the sub-base coming out of concentricity, will be making a entering cone on the lathe real soon to check my routers. Many thanks!
Hi there this is Dave from England I just come across your video and watched it all the way through hello what you said my perfect common sense a simple self centring jig that took 5-minutes to make ensures you never stray from the line I've used the round and the flat part before and I think I will adopt your way thank you very much for explaining it so well and all the very best stay safe and I'll keep watching
This is a wonderful video. I have to agree with the 'round side' approach. My trim routers have an indexed ring on the base and I like to make various sub-bases out of acrylic. I use a small end-mill and rotary table to solve the concentric problem and this allows me to rabbet in a ring for my template guides, but I really like your approach using a cone chucked in the spindle - hard to go wrong. Another way to measure is with a 0.25 pin (not a wood dowel) chucked in and then use a dial caliper to walk around the base. Just discovered your channel and like everything I've watched - content, presentation, and honesty...
Great video for all of those who never had to think about this before.Because I used a dovetail jig with a bushing,to fit the template I had to figure this problem out before.I used a hand sink bit with a wide pyramid shape,knocked it out the handle (8mm shaft thanks god) and grinded it flat in the drillpess.As long I work with different tools I never come across another tool that’s so versitile as a router.Seems like the different situations to use it,to get a job done is endless.Like Collin Knechts triangle base for framemoulding etc.Keep it coming.Well done,and sorry for my bad grammar.Greatings from Germany
You, sir are correct. I have a Craftsman router and i went out and checked it. Sure enough it is a lot more comfortable using the round part of the sub-base. I also noticed the metal part of my router is curved inward so it is difficult to put it in wrong, but I still have over sized holes in case I need to use them. Even so, I plan to a cone similar to yours just because it looks easier then trying to look around the perimeter to see if the sub-base is centered. By the way, as of now, I never plan to use the flat part of my router again. Thank You Very Much!
I’ve bought the Bosch centering cone, but to be honest the quickest centering method I found, which is straight from the manual itself, is using the screws included with the router in the bags that are made to insert in the sub base for centering with their cone shaped heads.
Top class video and very helpful to me as a hobby woodworker. When my router is facing towards me it has a grooved centre (center) mark on the base so I know that I'm ploughing a straight line.
Best wishes from Ireland.
This is awesome. I am new to wood working and was really wracking my brain on how to get good clean cuts like this. My last attempt was successful enough but was a royal pain and would not have looked good if it hadn't been mostly hidden by the rest of the piece. So I am looking forward to trying this out.
Great idea to center the base... Looking back, my router base was off so my cutter would be off.. Thanks for the great vids..
Thank you for the clear explanation , very helpful! I always used the flat edge and now i feel more confident getting a round base
Superb video this mate. The straight edge is a pain in the ass and i was making this mistake constantly!! Thank you 🙏
Oh man, this explains the issue I had the other day. Not an experienced router user and assumed the flat part of the base was for following a fence/edge. Well afterwards I had little variations in my cut and I put it down to my skill level. Will use the round part of the base from now on. Thank you very much
I bought a router before the lock down. I am yet to start operating it. Videos like these are my go to "User Info". Thanks for making this video
I'm doing my first cabinetry project ever and using a router to make shelf dados, and this was invaluable advice. My dados wobbled a bit, but not as badly as they would have if I'd been using the straight side. Thanks! and subscribed.
Some good tips there.Thankyou.
I made an 18mm rebate/rabbet jig similar to yours but with a snug fit when running along the straight part of the base as well as touching the opposite rounded part.
Being 6'2",I have no problem reaching across a 24" board for full width rebates in cabinets.
I also included a 6mm base under the rails which was cut through with the 1st cut using an 18mm cutter,much like a circular saw straight guide.
That way I can simply align the cutout in the jig with either edge of the intended rebate for perfect results,with a single pass, every time.(Just remember to have the jig the right way round which is easy due to marking the baseplate outline on the 6mm ply base.)
Everything was sanded to P180 before assembly so it runs pretty smoothly,especially with a dab of camelia oil on the contact areas once in a while.
I fully agree with your point about ergonomics though and if I was ever unlucky enough to be doing rebates all day,I'd probably consider your approach!
I've never been very router savvy so this was great info. The centering rang very true with me because doing layout for work i have to actually true up my levels and plumbrods. A lot of people wouldn't think that levels get out of well level but they do. Good practice to make sure your tools are staying plumb, level and square.
I never gave whether or not my router base was centered a second thought. I have had the sub base off too...thanks for a great video and perfect advice.
I was wondering why use the round side too, you automatically think the straight edge is better, now I know the correct method. Thanks for putting things straight, very clear, calm explanation. Sometimes we call those divider calipers in the UK.
nice trick, I have one sub base that someone tried to modify so it is not good to use to center off of but you could use a compass to center things up. quick and easy.
Great solution for centering the subbase.. A drill bit would be great to put the cone on. Everybody has some and you can use the one you created the hole in the center of the cone
Brilliant, I had always used the flat edge and had experienced all the issues you described. Thanks you explained it so clearly.
Thank you, for presenting another approach toward more accurate router work (David)
Just watched this excellent video. I just bought a brand new router and expected the round base plate to be centered and the diameter to be consistent. Unfortunately it was neither meaning it is only possible to "center" the base plate when measured at certain places on the plate. I think this may be a more common problem than is appreciated. Looks like I will need to build a new, more accurate, base plate. Thanks, Larry
As a retired machinist of 38 year's I was waiting if you were going that way kudos to YOU....
Excellent content as usual. Can always pick up some great tips while attending Inspire Woodcraft school. Also, like your coffee cup on the workbench too. Cheers.
Been looking through your videos now. And you truly are inspired. Thank you so much for all your help and tips. Really appreciate 🌼
So simple, it's a "why didn't I think of that?" moment. Thanks for this simple solution. I always used the flat and far too many times I failed to keep it flat to my guide.
You my friend have a skill to explain at a level that is easy to grasp and understand which is very helpful to me as a “Woodworkerwannabe”. Enjoy your channel very much👍
Well thank you!
Good production but a much simpler way to cut very accurate dados is to use a top bearing flush cut bit and take the router base totally out of the measurement equation. Clamp a straight board at the top or bottom of tour dado location. Place a scrap of the exact width material next to the clamped board and finally clamp a second straight board on the opposite side if the scrap. Remove the scrap, place the router on top of the clamped boards, and plunge the router bit down into the work piece. The top bearing on the bit will be guided by both of the clamped boards.
I have the exact same router. I use a milescraft base plate that removes the flat edge. The kit also comes with a centering pin to make sure the bit is in the center of the plate. The base also holds bushings so never have to change it out.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I will have to look into that. Have you ever tried the factory Bosch bushings with the plunge base? I always mean to get them but then I never have that big of a need for them so I always pass it up.
@@InspireWoodcraft actually, i have to correct myself. The milescraft is smaller than the baseplate. I only use it for my spiro graph. The powermatic base is the one that is bigger than the baseplate. That is the one i use with a guide. I have the port cable bushings set that i picked up at a yard sale for $5 over 10 years ago. They screw into both the milescraft and the powermatic. I also picked up the craftsman spirograph that came with the miles craft baseplate and 2 brass bushings at the same yard sale with about 30 router bits. The spirograph is amazing. 3 templates lets you do around 50 designs. Also came with templates to do letters and numbers.
The type of router you have there usually has a metal guide fence and when that is put on the router you can see that it is positioned to either side of the round base.
So what your saying here makes perfect sence. Good video. 👍🏻
Awesome class, thank you, I’m new in this wood work trying save some money on my house repairs.
You can use the bosch Or most centering cones on most routers.
It it has a rod 1/2" On one side and a 1/4" Rod on the other side of the cone. So it fits both collets and the cone is tapered on both sides. Typically it's used to center a router bit collar.
In case you don't have a collar but want to center a base whose center opening is bigger than the cone diameter use a disk of wood stuck in center with a centered hole in between..
Another great video, the teacher in you is great to watch. In te case of this particular video, despite already knowing a lot of what you were explaining, I was still invested in it. That tells a lot about how well you convey things in an interesting manner that keeps viewers riveted and coming back.
Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Greetings from Portugal
Such a great comment. Thank you so much!
@@InspireWoodcraft Thank YOU for reading and replying 👍
Just bloody fantastic, been struggling with my router for so long and now I know why. Thank you so much
The only time I had a problem with my 1.75 PCS was when I was ripping a long 8/4 board of walnut that had tons of internal stress. The board squeezed the hell out of the blade and riving knife and I ended up tripping the saws circuit breaker. It was my fault for forcing it through and not having a ripping blade on. But it's done great with all the 8/4 stock I've put through it. I do like the fact that I can upgrade in the future, but unless I plan on ripping 3" thick boards constantly, I don't think I will be upgrading any time soon
Centring cones will be transferable from one router to another without any problem. It’s just a conical end to a 1/4” or 1/2” shank to fit your collet.
Doing this with a guide bush also means you don’t need a large diameter cone.
Yeah I just recently found the smaller ones that get used with bushings too. Thanks for mentioning this.
Great video.
My favourite routers are round based like the Makita 3612C and the Triton routers. That's a great idea, much more simple and probably accurate than the method i currently use. Although i have never had a problem with accuracy I will check my round base routers using the divider method tomorrow. Thanks.
I'm kinda late coming to the conversation but THANKS I learned so much and I totally get it. BRAVO
You know the more woodworkers set up their equipment with a mindset like a machinist ( as far as calibration goes ) the better his or her results will be.your router setup is a perfect example..nice job all around...stay safe...
This was very informative. I have always used flat edge, but not anymore.
Thank you for the intelligent, informative videos - I learn something from each one. I have the same Bosch router (I think). Mine was part of a kit - two bases and accessories in a plastic suitcase + a centering cone. Yours, not?
Salt of the earth guy... I am a handyman, doing an gym cabinet with a customer I have worked with for years. This tip on the router set up was awesome.
Another great video. It's the first video I chose to view this morning when I saw it was up.
Well thanks for choosing this one!
Really enjoyed this video. The subject matter was interesting and informative and delivery was spot on.
I've had to figure these things out myself over the past few years of owning a router, and this video literally covers all the bases (pun intended).
I do wanna add that when installing a router in a router table, using the same centering technique can be valuable if you want to add a permanent ruler on the table's surface. That allows you to subtract/add half the diameter of the bit being used and set the fence with a bit less fumbling around with calipers - although setting to a line is usually more accurate anyway (and better yet, making test cuts in scrap first. something I often fail to do)
Great point!
Great explanation! Weird side note: Just last night while routing 3/4" dados for a channel system, I eventually realized my base being slightly off center and me rotating the router a bit to avoid the clamps on my straight edge, those dados were perfect while the others were too tight. But the fluke of me realizing if I rotated the router I could then widen the dado a hair on the return pass and get them dialed for the channel inserts.. then coincidentally learning the flip side of that with your lesson, kinda funny.
Great video. Very clear explanations. Just as I thought of questions they were answered! Thank you.
I've had this trouble with the flat side as well. I use the round side. Less drag also. I would not have told anyone this till I saw this video. Lol. I'm always doing things wrong when some other know it all is around. I generally stop what I'm doing when people pull in for 2 reasons. One is that ya can't talk with all the noise. The other is that everyone is a know it all. Lol.
I get a lot of comments from folks that tell me I'm wrong all the time, so I get what you're saying. I think some people just can't wrap their heads around the possibility of things working differently than how they think things should work.
To be sure, the Manufacturer has to be "reputable" to ensure it is actually a round circumference to start with. Other than that it is a very sound system. How to deal with a plate that is not "round"?
Another video!!!!
Hey Jody, just have to say your brilliant, well versed, and sagacious in your woodworking and tutorials. Thank you for all the info. It all makes great sense. Unrelated to the video, I noticed in the background you have a setup with two mitre saws. I’m curious why? Thanks again. And I’m bummed I just saw this and missed the flashlight bundle sale. ;-/ but will try to support along the way thru your affiliate link.
Another great video. More common sense in the shop. Keep doing what you do! Thanks
Plywood cone is such a brilliant solution!
How simple as it sounds, and how counter-intuitive it feels, it all makes perfect sense... thnx for clearing this up!
Great sub base centering method!
Great video Jody, you explain things very well. When you explain something in a video and a question pops up in my mind your answering it in the very next sentence, it seem like you think of all the questions that people can possibly think of and you answer it right away. I swear you could be a teacher. Well I guess you are if you look at it because people learn from your channel. Thank you professor Jody. Lol 🤓🎓📏📐🔨📖. Looking forward to your next video. P.S. Don't get stressed out about making more videos. Don't let this happen to you🤪🤯.
Ha! It's hard not to feel some sort of pressure to constantly be putting out something. I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement. Thank you!
Thank you! You taught me things I had never thought of! This is great I now have knowledge before even trying and screwing up. Been a little intimidated by my router to only using it in the router table. Know I am going to venture into using the plunge base! Thank you again excellent video! I too chuckled at "If your still watching". Of course I am!
Gained a Sub from this video! I was using the flat side instead of the round edge. Now, I can create perfect dados with my trim router so I don't need to get a table mounted one till I can afford one.
Great video. As a hobbyist, I never realized the whole centering thing! I almost always used the straight edge. Not anymore!
Very nicely done. I hope that you teach somewhere. Kids would benefit from your teaching skills.
I've been getting that a lot lately and it means a lot. Thank you!
Excellent explanation, thanks! Maybe one could use a little stainless steel funnel instead of the cone., so that you can also see inside of it when adjusting the sub-base? Just a thought... :)
Sir,
Thank you for an interesting and informative video.
It's all perfectly logical, especially for that kind of router.
I have some experience that runs contrary however.
1 - Using the round part of the base against a straight edge (as you demonstrate) requires that the workpiece be an inch or so wider than if the flat edge be used.
2 - We all know that: with the straight edge to your right (as you demonstrate with the T square) you draw the router towards yourself so that the cutting force presses the router base against the straight edge. Propelling the router in the opposite direction has the opposite effect and provides a force tending to drift the router away from the straight edge unless held firmly.
So providing we propel the router in the right direction (towards you in this example) it won't have the tendency to drift that you suggest at 5:04.
Further, if edge planing with the router, drift isn't a problem as it only cuts fresh air and the router can be passed again if necessary.
3 - If you're cutting along (not across) a long workpiece, on your particular router you can still use the circular part of the base, opposite the flat. However some routers have a pair of flats. This isn't without advantage: it enables narrower work (by about 2") to be worked in a slot or dado jig.
4 - At 13:30 you play dawn the need for precision to "Several thousandths of an inch". I use a Mitutoyo vernier caliper and aim to work to a few thou. It makes the difference between force fit, snug fit and sloppy fit.
Stay well. Regards, Clive.
You know when I saw the title to this video I was like, I know which way to use a router, I don't need no help with my stinkin router.... Well after watching the video I did need help with my stinkin router and I learned several things. Great video.
Good thinking and good advice, I know when ever I using a cutting device i.e. saw router drill etc I want to feel the cutting not the friction of the guide I am using, and also pay attention to the cut line, motor RPM/sound, so having one less thing to pay attention to is a very good thing. and Probably Rocks too ?
Love this. Very simple and direct video on setting up a centering cone. Thanks a bunch Jody
Harleymike/chicago
thanks for the video. What are your thoughts on the Bosch 1/2" router, is it a good buy?
Good illustration for beginners,perfecto
Question:
I'm making a router sled and I'm unsure if I should use the round or flat sides against the rails.
On my router I've got two flat sides and two round sides.
Which sides should I take my measurement from to create the spacing between the guide rails... the two rounded sides (which would mean the controls are in the correct position for operating)? Or use the flat sides against the rails which I'd assume helps keep things stable while making the cut.
Any advice from anyone is appreciated
Great video. I was really interested in the flashlights, but when I went to the site, I got a warning that it isn’t safe and my personal information could be exposed. No sale for them!
As they say never to old to learn cheers great tip
Whoa there horsie! Love the flashlight but it's dam expensive and SOLD OUT lol.
That's pure genius. Thanks for the tip!
I have a Bosch router and the centering cone. It will work with other routers. It's just a metal pin that one end is for 1/2" collet and other end is for a 1/4" collet and slide the cone on it to center.
Thanks for sharing this. I was hoping someone had some experience with using it on other bases.
I was wrong, thanks for showing me things I hadn't figured out!
Thanks, I finally will get my router next week I'm very excited, watching lots of videos so I know some what how to use it when I get it
Oh nice! It's such a useful and unique tool. You will love it I'm sure!
Furtunately my Bosch GOF2000 came with the steel cone on a 1/2" spigot for centering the base.
This makes such great sense. I use the straight edge often and I do exactly as you describe - I sometimes screw it up! Thanks
So I'm in the proces of buying a cheap router and actually this was a part of one of my main concerns - I'm kind of paranoic about the fact that the base might not be a circle really, just an oval shape. Thx for idea of centering anyway ^^
I'm a big fan of Olight. I have several of their products.
Just so you know they are one size fits all depending on collet size. 1/4 inch shaft cone for that collet and 1/2 inch shaft cone for 1/2 collets.
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Another idea is to replace the black base with one totally round made of plywood. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Sorry, why do that , isnt the black base already totally round?
@@rossmarshall8151 You mean, except for that flat part? The part he's pointing to in the thumbnail?
Christopher Biomass Thanks for pointing that out, shame you had to revert to sarcasm!
@@rossmarshall8151 Well, it happens. 😬
Anyway, you can even make square bases and so on, depending on your needs. 😊
Thank you very much, for the first time i now understand. Thank you again.
I always wondered. Now I know
Now, if you could tell me whyy my table saw table has square holes on the sides
Somehow your vids are the only I watch till last second. Great stuff. When you showed in the first part how you make those cuts I kept wondering - why is he not using this flat side, it would be more precise, if he turns a little, the bit will wander from the path... beep, WRONG. It will not.
Damn, I love such ideas.
BTW I can mount a t-shaped ruler on my cheap router as a "guide" (to cut close to the edge), used it once and it did not work. Now I know WHY ;-) I think the only way such "guide" could work is if it had 2 mounting points (front and back of the bit), bearings on both sides, a system to mount it straight... Terrible idea ;-)
I have a centering cone, this is so simple and informative, thank you.
Bosch and all router manufacturers should include the centering cone with their routers, duh! Good video and with good instructions and demos.
Thanks. Yeah I kind of agree with you on that one. At least on the mid to upper end ones.
impressive ill definitely keep this in my back pocket. I made a 2 foot by 4 foot router table thats flat to 0.003 in at the center from the edge and i abuse the hell out of my router bits making dados and edge trim, best part is that the table collects 95% of all dust because the dust is extracted thru the center hole instead of the fence. Additionally my table saw is on casters and at the exact height as the router table so i can use the fence on the saw to give me infinite length.