i am on a number of fronts. since changing over to direct drive its quieter now and the amp draw rate has lowered significantly. my only issue is batteries and charging now. I would like to be able to pull out at a faster rate for a longer period for my planned route through the Erie canal system. appreciate the comments! 😊
Great video! The people from Golden Motor recommend the EZ-B72800 controller to me, but I guess this is not programmable. When you are sailing, how do you change the gear? Do you know if using the throttle button? Appreciated!
im not quite following your question. im using the VEC-500 controller and it does have the ability to be programmed. i am not familiar with the one you mentioned. in the programming i can set quite a few things but there are no gears. l have a potentiometer style throttle which uses -5 to +5 volts DC to control forward speed and reverse speed.
Hi, love your videos. I have a question: have you limited the max rpm? All other vendors of boat electrival motors have a max rpm of about 2200rpm… the 10kw motor is by default much higher rpm?
hi, yes by default the rpm was 5000 in the VEC-500 controller. it was a bit high when i had the 1.92:1 gear ratio but when i changed to direct drive i lowered it to 2400 max rpm. at this setting i can still create cavitation on the prop so i try to manage with the throttle (easing in and out). thx for the comments appreciated!
Because of your videos I decided to go with Golden Motor for my boat.However, I have used this video to set the parameters like you and I've got pretty much the same results but I'm concerned about the temperature of the controller. Did you have the same problem??? In about 5 minutes using 20-30Amps I can't barely touch the controller's heatskin!!! It get's close to 80ºC I will cool it down with water system. Do you use any to cool it down? And thanks again for sharing your poryect!!! You are inspiring me!
thx for the feedback, i hope my videos are at least a bit informative and fun… i am not naturally a speed demon and i was limited with lead acid last 2 years so i kept it at 20 amps. i read on the community board on goldenmotor.com about heat and it normally runs hot. i couldn’t touch it either but was told it wad relatively normal. as i was at 20 amps i never hit high temp alerts. this year i switched to Lithium and i did hit some high temp shut off in the marina slip. i do believe that the boat not moving uses more torque than a boat moving through the water. i ran 50 amps for about 30 minutes before getting a high temp alert. i am still bench testing but my usual slow speeds doesn’t cause me any grief. i am presently working on a live temp monitor feed integrated into my Axiom chart plotter so i can keep an eye on the temp and i am hooking up a heatsink and water circulation pump. i am going to try one of the recommendations on the community channel. i will post videos on it as i go and run more tests. in the software there are settings for alarms and i am running default settings. Good luck with your project!
@@TheNeds I'm happy to see that we are in the same page! I'm gonna use the water cooling system from the old diesel engine for the e-motor and I have to come up with something for the controller so I can't wait to see your videos about it. You are doing a great job! I hope one day I meet you sailing...who knows! there in Canada or you comming here to Spain 🤣to thank you in person once again for sharing your experiences and your dedication. Cheers from Spain!
it does have it but i have just started testing the regeneration. i am unsure right now of any results i don’t know if i need to trigger something to start regen. for me at 5 knots boat speed the motor starts turning so fingers crossed 🤞 it can
Hello Neds, Rob from the Netherlands, I have replaced the diesel for the 10kw and when I pull 20 amps for 30 minutes the control unit is 80 dergrees and shuts down. Can I change something in the program of the control unit or do I have to divide the load over two controlunits? I already installed a cooling plate to the control unit to lower the thempature but this is not helping.
hi rob good to hear from you again. i know it runs hot but i haven’t had that issue but i found some info on the user forum before as i was concerned. there is a setting in the software that has this cutoff point but i don’t remember what it is. i should be able to check mine this weekend and i can repost here. i was concerned when i touched it and found it quite hot to the touch which is why i looked it up. i haven’t had it cut out on me (yet).
Wow, setting your alarms and cut off so low is not going to protect your batteries very well. If you want to prevent discharging your batteries below 50% like you have commented on several times you need to have that voltage set closer to 48 volts remember 48 volts in a 48 volt system is equivalent to 12 volts in a 12 volt system so 42 volts is like 10 and 1/4 volts equivalent which is dangerously and damaging low for flooded lead-acid batteries considering that 10 volts even is considered dead zero 100% energy gone and no doubt your batteries would not last very many cycles like that
I also was surprised after I thought about it a bit. There is a tradeoff however if you really need the motor to run in an emergency. There is a tossup of whether or not to let the batteries get damaged in any way on purpose. I set it to 46.5 I think it's been a while but I also thought 42 was pretty low. I don't know why it was set that way from the manufacturer... I am looking at lithium now so I can get some better amps in and out of the batteries, so I am redoing this and will have to revisit all these settings again. I am still undecided on black box lithium batteries or going the Winston style open BMS like RAN Sailing...
excellent results 13a 3kn you must be pleased
i am on a number of fronts. since changing over to direct drive its quieter now and the amp draw rate has lowered significantly. my only issue is batteries and charging now. I would like to be able to pull out at a faster rate for a longer period for my planned route through the Erie canal system. appreciate the comments! 😊
Great video! The people from Golden Motor recommend the EZ-B72800 controller to me, but I guess this is not programmable. When you are sailing, how do you change the gear? Do you know if using the throttle button? Appreciated!
im not quite following your question. im using the VEC-500 controller and it does have the ability to be programmed. i am not familiar with the one you mentioned. in the programming i can set quite a few things but there are no gears. l have a potentiometer style throttle which uses -5 to +5 volts DC to control forward speed and reverse speed.
Hi, love your videos. I have a question: have you limited the max rpm? All other vendors of boat electrival motors have a max rpm of about 2200rpm… the 10kw motor is by default much higher rpm?
hi, yes by default the rpm was 5000 in the VEC-500 controller. it was a bit high when i had the 1.92:1 gear ratio but when i changed to direct drive i lowered it to 2400 max rpm. at this setting i can still create cavitation on the prop so i try to manage with the throttle (easing in and out). thx for the comments appreciated!
Because of your videos I decided to go with Golden Motor for my boat.However, I have used this video to set the parameters like you and I've got pretty much the same results but I'm concerned about the temperature of the controller. Did you have the same problem??? In about 5 minutes using 20-30Amps I can't barely touch the controller's heatskin!!! It get's close to 80ºC
I will cool it down with water system. Do you use any to cool it down?
And thanks again for sharing your poryect!!! You are inspiring me!
thx for the feedback, i hope my videos are at least a bit informative and fun… i am not naturally a speed demon and i was limited with lead acid last 2 years so i kept it at 20 amps. i read on the community board on goldenmotor.com about heat and it normally runs hot. i couldn’t touch it either but was told it wad relatively normal. as i was at 20 amps i never hit high temp alerts. this year i switched to Lithium and i did hit some high temp shut off in the marina slip. i do believe that the boat not moving uses more torque than a boat moving through the water. i ran 50 amps for about 30 minutes before getting a high temp alert. i am still bench testing but my usual slow speeds doesn’t cause me any grief. i am presently working on a live temp monitor feed integrated into my Axiom chart plotter so i can keep an eye on the temp and i am hooking up a heatsink and water circulation pump. i am going to try one of the recommendations on the community channel. i will post videos on it as i go and run more tests. in the software there are settings for alarms and i am running default settings. Good luck with your project!
@@TheNeds I'm happy to see that we are in the same page! I'm gonna use the water cooling system from the old diesel engine for the e-motor and I have to come up with something for the controller so I can't wait to see your videos about it. You are doing a great job! I hope one day I meet you sailing...who knows! there in Canada or you comming here to Spain 🤣to thank you in person once again for sharing your experiences and your dedication. Cheers from Spain!
@@TheNeds You mention the community channel. Do you know where I can find this channel?
@@martinconstante goldenmotor.com/SMF/
Hey, where did you get the software from?
download off golden motors site US under motor controllers
i think its called Controller Software and its .rar compressed
Does the Vec controller work sensorless?
from my understanding it needs the Hall sensor to function
Thanks for the video. What are you using to get battery info on your phone?
victron energy BMV-712 with bluetooth
any regeneration?
it does have it but i have just started testing the regeneration. i am unsure right now of any results i don’t know if i need to trigger something to start regen. for me at 5 knots boat speed the motor starts turning so fingers crossed 🤞 it can
@@TheNeds alas regen is the holy grail of EV sailing me thinks a larger thinner propeller you will need live long and prosper sustainability
i think i’d like a folding or feathering prop so i can control when it engages
@@TheNeds yes isn't life complicated
the system as is should work for years
i am hopeful
i do wonder on the electronic controller as it does get significantly hot. so far so good
@@TheNeds talk to manufacturers of controller beg for help
need to implement some sort of heat diffuser and liquid cooling for prolonged use
Hello Neds, Rob from the Netherlands, I have replaced the diesel for the 10kw and when I pull 20 amps for 30 minutes the control unit is 80 dergrees and shuts down.
Can I change something in the program of the control unit or do I have to divide the load over two controlunits? I already installed a cooling plate to the control unit to lower the thempature but this is not helping.
hi rob good to hear from you again. i know it runs hot but i haven’t had that issue but i found some info on the user forum before as i was concerned. there is a setting in the software that has this cutoff point but i don’t remember what it is. i should be able to check mine this weekend and i can repost here. i was concerned when i touched it and found it quite hot to the touch which is why i looked it up. i haven’t had it cut out on me (yet).
Wow, setting your alarms and cut off so low is not going to protect your batteries very well. If you want to prevent discharging your batteries below 50% like you have commented on several times you need to have that voltage set closer to 48 volts remember 48 volts in a 48 volt system is equivalent to 12 volts in a 12 volt system so 42 volts is like 10 and 1/4 volts equivalent which is dangerously and damaging low for flooded lead-acid batteries considering that 10 volts even is considered dead zero 100% energy gone and no doubt your batteries would not last very many cycles like that
I also was surprised after I thought about it a bit. There is a tradeoff however if you really need the motor to run in an emergency. There is a tossup of whether or not to let the batteries get damaged in any way on purpose. I set it to 46.5 I think it's been a while but I also thought 42 was pretty low. I don't know why it was set that way from the manufacturer...
I am looking at lithium now so I can get some better amps in and out of the batteries, so I am redoing this and will have to revisit all these settings again. I am still undecided on black box lithium batteries or going the Winston style open BMS like RAN Sailing...