Відео

@@Sunshine.sailing.project good question! a couple reasons 1) when the electric brake in the vec500 is on, it beeps. continuously! never stops. i can’t figure why they would want it this way and i could not figure out how to turn the beeping off. 2) the direct drive setup uses a jar coupler between the motor and the prop shaft. at very low rpm its very grinding like sound and it sounds like a car crusher grinding its way through some steel. very loud and it starts at about 2 knots of boat speed. so i put the brake in place to stop the free spinning. as for regen it needs 6 knots boat speed to really generate something significant so when its 6knots the jar coupler is not bothersome at all. but at 1 knots 😱 thx for the comments and hope your installation going well!

Wow! Thank you for clarifying so many doubts, I’m also looking forward to having a regeneration, my controller is the EZkontrol and I still haven’t been able to install it on the boat, but it will be ready very soon! Thank you for clarifying so many doubts! Greetings!!

@@FortniteChapter3Map thats a super old version! 👍

@@MikeZ8709 ya that motor is running cool. at 2000 watts the motor slowly increases i run out of batteries before its over 50 deg celsius. my issue is the controller. thats what heats up.

this is an older video. at the time Lifopo4 was considerably more. appreciate the comment going lithium made a very large positive impact

thx for the heads up! best of luck to you with your project. i’ll follow along

appreciate the advice will add that to my list of content ideas

hi Brynn @brynnnheiley377 be glad to help you out with any questions and love to see your boat sure. i ran into a few challenges I am still in hamilton reach out to me at info@sailons.com

a couple of shaft locking collars and flush mount bearing. similar to pillow block bearing but side mounts.

Thanks

A pro did that one, Mike from @launchmarineconcepts took a couple visits, one to measure and one to install. Had to be above 12 degrees to install. It's really warmed up the cockpit

thx @bradstevens7902 it took a while to get the templates and cuts straight but I'm warming up to it...

hey @bradstevens7902 it's gone and has been replaced by a leaky zodiac 9 footer..... ;0

Thanks 👍

my old prop was the original prop on the atomic 4 gas engine, a Michigan 2 size 16RH14 i changed it this year to a Michigan 3 size 16RH12 to gain more torque while docking. my old 2 blade did not slow the boat down in reverse very well. big difference with the 3 blade. the 2 blade is better under sail as it tucks in nicely behind the keel offering low drag. the 3 blade starts spinning at just over a knot boat speed so increased drag. need to install a brake.

hi!

never saw dinghy rings i will have to mull that over thx for the tip

it worked well for me. i am still using it at a tower site to power the equipment when the power is out from the grid. been working for years now.

thx!

hello from hamilton i will be passing through quebec likely next year, remote chance this year. my boat specs are in the comments a link to sailboat data. its a hughes 35/1500 1975 about 12,000 lbs displacement. was running a 2 blade michigan sailor 16rh14 but this year testing a 3 blade michigan 16rh12. i will post some info once i have some comparison data. this 10kw dc motor replaced my old atomic 4 gas.

@@TheNeds I'm in Matane along the Fleuve Saint-Laurent... Building a 40feet Cat, I will have 2x ME1616 10KW probably with 2 props : 18x14... no idea of what's going to get out of that :)

ordered radiators off of amazon

that’s interesting it wasn’t available when I originally did my electric conversion almost 4 years ago now. it looks like they are using the same motor and vec500 controller but housed it tight together and still offered the liquid cooling as an option. the smart phone app is new and a neat feature but i am still looking for ways to get that info onto the nmea2k network. good luck with your project!

download off golden motors site US under motor controllers i think its called Controller Software and its .rar compressed

hi, yes by default the rpm was 5000 in the VEC-500 controller. it was a bit high when i had the 1.92:1 gear ratio but when i changed to direct drive i lowered it to 2400 max rpm. at this setting i can still create cavitation on the prop so i try to manage with the throttle (easing in and out). thx for the comments appreciated!

the motor has 6 hex bolts to attach it on the opposite of the shaft end. i don’t know for certain the implications of mounting with the shaft up or down facing but i would post on the golden motor user forum. i never looked into it. i know from history that electric motors were the vertical orientation motor choice for many applications. good luck !

thx for the comment. i am not certain there is a right answer as your prop and hull shape have a lot to do with it. the 5kw is probably plenty for your boat as it would be fine for mine (hughes 35). the gear ratio is really dependent in your prop. i had 2:1 on mine but i found it using too much energy. after running 1:1 for me 1.4:1 is probably the right ratio so i just changed my prop and dropped the pitch 2. i will test this season. so i would guess that the power is good but i couldn’t comment on the gear ratio. best common sense and testing doesn’t hurt anything. good luck!

@@TheNeds thanks for reply. I was reading up on the data for the 5 and 10kW motors. The motors are most efficient at around 4k rpm so I suppose both motors are made to run at higher rpm? That was my reasoning about a 3-1 reduction to keep the motor at its most efficient rpm. I also noticed that the 10kW is more efficient at 96v. And if you look at torque between both motors at 48v and around 2500W it’s actually more torque on the 5kw and that is because it’s more efficient at 48v and lower W than the 10kW motor, that is how I interpret the data.

@@TheNeds Keep in mind that a voltage increase is also a capacity increase. Assuming you don't ride WFO on the throttle all the time.

im not quite following your question. im using the VEC-500 controller and it does have the ability to be programmed. i am not familiar with the one you mentioned. in the programming i can set quite a few things but there are no gears. l have a potentiometer style throttle which uses -5 to +5 volts DC to control forward speed and reverse speed.

nice!

i think that with the direct drive im a touch heavier on the torque than ideal prop cavitation is easily reached too quickly with direct drive so i’ve lowered the max rpm setting to 2500rpm but i can still hear the prop screaming. the 10kw is very torque heavy as compared to the 5kw, about 30% more. for me 2:1 was too much and 1:1 to little i think its got to be in the middle of those ratios to reach the highest efficiency of the motor quicker. i found 2:1 just not enough. at 600 watts its up there about 80+ efficient but any less (trolling speeds) is not so i try to bring it to 750 watts to 1700 watts is my range. anywhere less is creating more heat than necessary and any more and thing really start becoming too inefficient and creating cavitation. sorry not a straight forward answer more like it depends but keeping the motor rpm in an efficient space means it will run cooler. also the lower the rpm the longer your batteries last so there is an argument to have a lower gear ratio when considering energy consumption. i am not in a hurry and 100 amps lifepo4 batteries get me about 20 nautical mile range at 3 to 3.5 knots so i’m happy with that. im a sailor not a power boater. i suppose lifestyle matters too in the thinking. i sail almost in and out of dock and i’m not in a hurry to get there.

​@@TheNedsmaybe a larger prop would get you to the sweet spot for your motor? Than you can put more torque into the water at lower rpm. Also recuperation should work better/at lower speeds. Downside of course is, it's more water resistance when sailing.

this year i installed a Michigan sailor 3 to replace the michigan sailor 2 that was originally on the boat. i kept the same size (16) but lowered the pitch from 14 to 12. my boat speed is fairly close to the old prop but i have more torque starting and stopping. Also under sail i used to need at least 5 knot to spin the prop but now need just over 2 knots. i had to install a shaft brake to control the free spinning regen as it spins at much lower speeds now. you are right about more drag it feels the same as towing a bucket behind me…. more testing to compare notes but the added torque is getting me in and out of the dock easier.

@@TheNeds Hello! Finally I've installed the golden motor BDLC 10kw in my 33 feet boat. How can I share with you some videos?

@martinconstante if you are on youtube send me your URL

as the boat is out of water i took the locking shaft collars off to verify alignment as i pulled the shaft to make sure its straight. axial load is 2 shaft collars on each side of the bearing on the steel plate. the radial load is a jar coupler. the spider neoprene gasket is the piece between the two steel couplers that provides a bit of wiggle room between the propeller shaft and the electric motor shaft

hi good luck on your project! i got my drive shaft jar coupler at princess auto. it was available on their website. i hand built/welded the motor mount myself. when i removed the fuel tank i gutted the boat and started over. i rebuilt the layout so my weight distribution was almost 2000 lbs lighter. i moved the water to the vberth and the batteries where the engine used to be so i could roughly keep the weight balanced port to starboard and bow to stern. my waterline is 3 inches lower with all the weight i removed so i can pile quite a bit more in for cruising provisions etc. now i have a galley i like and more room as i rebuild her. thx again for the note i hope you get your conversion working well for you!

thanks for the note! yes i think thin is better, enough to pick up any gaps. i did measure with the laser pickup thermometer but i wonder how accurate that is. the intake and outflow on the cooling plate is definitely lower but after getting the shaft aligned well with little resistance the heat stays pretty level on the controller. right now i have about a 12 to 14 degree difference measuring out vs in after cooling between 750 watts and 1700 watts.

@@TheNeds Regarding the laser thermometer... I have one, but find that the laser's spot isn't where the temperature is actually being sampled. At a range of a foot or so, they seem to be off by about a half inch. Makes it really hard to get a reading that I trust. I've since picked up a "Thermal Camera". I got the one from Acegmet, but there are many others. It's amazing how much more I learn about what's going on with a picture instead of just a point, even if the point were accurate. Not cheap, but worth it. It was quite a surprise, for example, seeing how hot some of my crimp connections were.

Thanks a lot! I'm converting my Furia 33-foot sailing boat to an electrical engine using the Golden Motor kit and your videos are gold to me. Greetings from Barcelona, Spain.@@TheNeds

i was unsuccessful with regen. i have that feature but the controller ‘beeps’ when regeneration is engaged which is very annoying. aside i experimented with it and couldn’t figure out how to get it to charge without beeping. if you go the same route and figure it out i would appreciate knowing how you got it to work. once i put enough panels in my setup generates more power from solar than i need (at the moment)

thx for the note and i don’t recommend breaking your achilles lol. its been brutal. to choose the motor i went by HP mostly. the old atomic 4 had “30” horsepower but i have that in quotes. i estimated it at 1/3 as under normal operating speeds it was probably 10 hp due to the combustion engine wastes of power. the 10kw is about 13 but 85% efficient so it matched up perfectly for me. in fact because of the torque rating the 10 i would say is even better than my old gas engine. so the 20kw would be close to 26 hp. the controller i was told by golden motor has a recommended pairing with thr appropriate controller i would stick to their advice. best of luck to you!

@TheNeds wonderful thanks so much , will keep you posted of what they suggest me... Take care and blessings 🙌

@mr.crision thx for the feedback and good luck!

thank you for the comment and good luck on your project. At the time of my conversion i had little real world info available which is why i started creating these. also to document and share so i can remember what i did too ;) getting older lol. i have live test data in ep84 too. according to golden motor test curve chart peak efficiency is at 5000 watts for my motor but at 1800 watts its over 80% and i’ve found that 1600 to 1800 watts to be a good spot for speed, battery consumption etc. it seems thats the sweet spot for me but i often motor at 1000 watts and its still more efficient than my old atomic 4. i would concur with your 20% statement. you’d also have redundancy with multiple motors which is a great advantage. sometimes power in compared to power out isn’t the only factor as some props behave differently at certain speeds so gear ratio is important to consider as well. getting the rpm efficient and motor efficiency to align i think is a worthwhile goal to put time into. cheers and good luck!

@@TheNeds they say these motors are hermetically sealed. Nothing is ever maintenance free but what’s your impression on the build quality?

i bought in 2020. no maintenance. no wintering. motor feels solid. controller i had a bad one initially but after swapping no issues. wish it was smarter to get data like heat onto nema2000 network. thats something i have created workarounds for like sticking temp sensors on various parts. aside ill never go back to fuel but my style is im not in a hurry i’ll get there when i get there. going electric is not for everyone.

thx for the tip i didn’t think of trying that