I have been looking for a protocol like this, specifically for shooting 35mm film cameras with significantly lower sync speeds. "Take an overall exposure, underexpose by .5 stop, match flash power to measured aperture." Perfect. Needed this.
Great video! A lot of information. Just to clarify, you cannot use a lightmeter when you use HSS, I think there’s only one that can read it, and it only works with a handful of flashes, and you still need to take a picture to read HSS, so it’s just a little faster than taking two, three pictures to set the power. And HSS will lose power, so you cannot just increase the shutter speed and keep shooting, you need to increase the flash power.
Thanks for sharing your beautiful tutorial. Too bad you did not mention using ND filter as an alternative to HSS. One thing I will like to add is there are 3 ways to adjust ambient light instead of just using the shutter speed. 1) Adjust shutter speed (common and well covered here) 2) Adjust ISO/Flash power (e.g. increasing ISO and lower flash power will increase ambient exposure without changing flash exposure; for lower ambient exposure, just do the reverse by lowering the ISO and increase flash power) 3) Adjust Aperture/Flash power (Not a common technique but you can open up the aperture and lower flash to increase ambient exposure; for lower ambient exposure, just do the reverse of stopping down aperture and increase flash) Yes, there are also 3 ways to adjust the power of flash but I will not get into them here.
I use ankle weights on my stand and have a 26 inch octabox. I find this almost impossible to tilt over by wind. But u are right. Once that puppy tilts over the monolight is gone. Something to think about.
As always.... seriously great mentoring, Michael. At 16:25 can you briefly mention how you have warmer tones on the left and cooler on the right.?? Did you simply drag around the color cast sliders in post because skin tones do not seem to be effected.?? Thanks so much for everything that you share..
So along to the pain poll adapter would be helpful since I’ve been looking for this thing ever since I saw you talk about two,years ago. Impossible to find.....for me anyway. Thanks for the great content. Helps keep me sharp.
Save money and get a Matthew's c-stand with a removable turtle base. This way you have a base to hold the stand when no ones around to tell you no. Matthews #756140
@@mcorsentino I understand now, photographers have assistant hold the painter's pole above their head. I always thought the bottom sat on the ground. I would be worried the 8lbs of the head would snap the pole. Much stronger than expected. Thanks for replying
very impressive and informative. I do have a question, when I go into hhs does my flash automatically go to full power, or do I have to adjust the power to get a certain look?
yes - you need to adjust power like you would in any other scenario - so lighting power will be tied to the scene, the camera settings, and the overall look you are going for. hth.
Hi Michael, love your tutorials! I want to ask, are you using barebulb inside the diffuser for equal distribution of light inside the diffuser or are you still attaching the bulb reflector inside?
Great video, lovely pics - wee verbal typo at 11:30 you say TTL when I am sure you mean HSS. I make that kind of mistake all the time - my wife calls them "brain goobles" - so just trying to be helpful rather than critical.
@@mcorsentino I like how you can get readings for each group side by side, now we don't have to remember what the last reading was. That's a Cool Feature! What's your favorite feature?
The meter is useful if we are using a speed under the sync limit of the camera. In my case 1/250th of a second. Do you have any tips about how to measure the flash contribution at HSS range? Thanks in advance. And a really good video.
If you are willing to use an ND filter, you can avoid HSS altogether. This will allow you to use your existing light meter to measure flash contribution.
Finally a very good video on the basics on how to set up your shot and how shutter and aperture are involved in this. Thanks a lot :)
Very essential tutorial. Thank you!
I have been looking for a protocol like this, specifically for shooting 35mm film cameras with significantly lower sync speeds. "Take an overall exposure, underexpose by .5 stop, match flash power to measured aperture." Perfect. Needed this.
This is a truly fantastic video! This channel deserves far more views than it's getting.
Thank you!
Great explaination, simple as it is!
Thank you. I really enjoyed your video
Nitpicking, but in the photo on the left, the ambient (sun) is from camera left. The flash is camera right.
Excellent! Thank you.
Thank you!
Great video! A lot of information. Just to clarify, you cannot use a lightmeter when you use HSS, I think there’s only one that can read it, and it only works with a handful of flashes, and you still need to take a picture to read HSS, so it’s just a little faster than taking two, three pictures to set the power. And HSS will lose power, so you cannot just increase the shutter speed and keep shooting, you need to increase the flash power.
are you referring to the Sektonic 858 than can meter HSS?
Yes, the Sekonic L858 meters HSS. It is the meter he is using in this video. I own one and HSS metering works perfectly.
fantastic info & images!
Thanks for sharing your beautiful tutorial. Too bad you did not mention using ND filter as an alternative to HSS. One thing I will like to add is there are 3 ways to adjust ambient light instead of just using the shutter speed.
1) Adjust shutter speed (common and well covered here)
2) Adjust ISO/Flash power (e.g. increasing ISO and lower flash power will increase ambient exposure without changing flash exposure; for lower ambient exposure, just do the reverse by lowering the ISO and increase flash power)
3) Adjust Aperture/Flash power (Not a common technique but you can open up the aperture and lower flash to increase ambient exposure; for lower ambient exposure, just do the reverse of stopping down aperture and increase flash)
Yes, there are also 3 ways to adjust the power of flash but I will not get into them here.
I use ankle weights on my stand and have a 26 inch octabox. I find this almost impossible to tilt over by wind. But u are right. Once that puppy tilts over the monolight is gone. Something to think about.
Thank you for sharing your expertise in that great way! I love this video!
As always.... seriously great mentoring, Michael. At 16:25 can you briefly mention how you have warmer tones on the left and cooler on the right.?? Did you simply drag around the color cast sliders in post because skin tones do not seem to be effected.??
Thanks so much for everything that you share..
So along to the pain poll adapter would be helpful since I’ve been looking for this thing ever since I saw you talk about two,years ago. Impossible to find.....for me anyway. Thanks for the great content. Helps keep me sharp.
www.adorama.com/ltkpa.html
Save money and get a Matthew's c-stand with a removable turtle base. This way you have a base to hold the stand when no ones around to tell you no. Matthews #756140
@@LightSubscriber To each his own. False economy IMHO, thats way too heavy for an assistant to hold in the air for an entire shoot.
@@mcorsentino I understand now, photographers have assistant hold the painter's pole above their head. I always thought the bottom sat on the ground. I would be worried the 8lbs of the head would snap the pole. Much stronger than expected. Thanks for replying
Michael Corsentino thank you. Weird I’ve never been able to find it before......at Adorama.
very impressive and informative. I do have a question, when I go into hhs does my flash automatically go to full power, or do I have to adjust the power to get a certain look?
yes - you need to adjust power like you would in any other scenario - so lighting power will be tied to the scene, the camera settings, and the overall look you are going for. hth.
I looked for the KC paint pole adapter and never found what you used. Where did you find it?
Variable ND filter another speed option
Hi Michael, love your tutorials! I want to ask, are you using barebulb inside the diffuser for equal distribution of light inside the diffuser or are you still attaching the bulb reflector inside?
Nice explained
What was your ISO for your images?
What type of meter are you using it will it let you use high speed sync with the meter
Sekonic Speedmaster
Sekonic L-858
Great video, lovely pics - wee verbal typo at 11:30 you say TTL when I am sure you mean HSS. I make that kind of mistake all the time - my wife calls them "brain goobles" - so just trying to be helpful rather than critical.
I'm not finding what you're referring to at that point on the timeline, please be more specific so I can address your question.
The stock image meter reading at the 11:30 mark is a HSS meter reading. It's from the Sekonic video for the L-858.
@@LightSubscriber Percentage readings look the same regardless. I own the 858, great meter!
@@mcorsentino I like how you can get readings for each group side by side, now we don't have to remember what the last reading was. That's a Cool Feature! What's your favorite feature?
The meter is useful if we are using a speed under the sync limit of the camera. In my case 1/250th of a second. Do you have any tips about how to measure the flash contribution at HSS range? Thanks in advance. And a really good video.
The Sekonic 858 measures HSS flash contribution.
@@mcorsentino Yes, I know. But it's the only one model. I thought there was some trick to use a more simple model, like S
ekonic l-475.
@@RafaelVida That feature is exclusive to the 858. Its the only meter I know of that measure the flash pulses occurring during HSS exposures.
If you are willing to use an ND filter, you can avoid HSS altogether. This will allow you to use your existing light meter to measure flash contribution.
how about ISO?