Thank you! I found the break just by taking a walk along the perimeter wire with an AM radio on MW tuning in for the "woodpecker" signal. Took off one connection on the perimeter wire and walked out from the one connected. Works best with radio perpendicular to the wire.
Thanks brother second time, worked through the same steps, brokenwire by the fire place chopen' wood was the culprit. The is an Awesome Video. Thanks again. Great steps. Genius.
Got the dreaded blinking blue light, spending days screwing around with it, only WISH I had found and watched your video! Yes, using the guide wire to detect which loop to focus on is a Gamechanger. Minor note, of the 3 tests at the beginning of your video, IF you started backwards on those 3, you would save us time. In addition, I saw one video, I’ll have to go back and find it, that hitting two keys on the Advanced section of the Automower itself, you can get into the programming and make the automower follow your broken loop, to find it for you, at least that is what I think he was saying, but I’ll have to recheck. Thanks man, hopefully I’ll find the dreaded break shortly.
Do the voltage diagnostics in reverse if you want to save time. If your voltage coming out of the boundary wire clips is good then no need to work backwards toward the transformer or anything else. In diagnostics you always start at the farthest point of failure. Saves a lot of time
Bingo! Checked my boundary wire out stubs/point of contact and got my voltage. Therefore, no need to check transformer, etc., and no need for paper clips.
We had an accident with the weed trimmer; the power supply wire got wrapped up in the spool and caused the positive and ground wires to twist and touch each other so I assumed it fried my power supply. There was no light on the base station; so after testing the power supply it was reading 28.05, not fried; happy moment! When inspecting the power cord at the base station I found the issue was only the wires pulled back out of the connector but not all the way so it was not obvious at first glance; another happy moment! I could have found this if I started with checking wire integrity before power tests.
Our flashing blue light after install was the guide wire connector/splicer - where it connects to the perimeter wire. For whatever reason, it didn't work. We replaced it with our own splicer.
@@EshlemaniaTV Thanks for the reply. I believe it's the power supply. I have no lights on the base so I took my power supply to a dealer who has one running at their site and I asked them If I could plug in my power supply to their set up and sure enough No power. The crappy thing about it is that I dug up my entire yard and re-laid the wire this weekend in 85+ degree temps with 68 degree dew points... Guess I should have checked the power supply first, but who would have though a power supply would go out after roughly 4 months of use. Massive sun burn and a near heat stroke later, hopefully I'll be up and running this week Lol...
wish I would have found this before I walked and tested my whole acre + yard. Problem as with the power supply. not plugged in properly Skippy (my mower) is back on the job
If you're happy that your charging station, low voltage cable and power supply are all working properly, there's an easy way of finding a break in the wire. Get a small radio (what used to be known as a "transistor radio" years ago). Disconnect one side of the perimeter wire from the charging station. Set the tuning to AM on the radio, tune it to a place on the dial where it's not picking up any signal and hold it close to the boundary wire that's still connected. You'll hear a buzzing sound. Now follow that boundary wire from the charging station, holding the radio close to the ground. The buzzing noise will stop close to the break in the wire. The boundary wire that comes with an automower is effectlively an antenna....this method of finding a break simply makes use of that. :-)
The AM radio method works in many situations, but a tone tester works much better. We used the AM radio method for the first year or 2 of repairs, but switched over to using a tone tester like the one in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qOAvqpQlO7E/v-deo.html We started using the tone tester because of interference from other utilities and items in the ground like dog fences, power lines, etc. With the tone tester it is a "beep" sent through the wire and it makes it easier to tell that wire from other items in the area. The tester in this video sells for around $40 on Amazon right now.
One other hint for the tone tester. Get a tester with a sensor on the end of long wire. Mount the sensor at the end of a wooden dowel (I used duct tape). Now no bending down just walk the line.
I'm working through trouble-shooting my 450x - one question I haven't readily found the answer to - if there is a break in the guidewire (not the boundary wire), would I get the anxiety-inducing blinking blue light? Or does a break in the guidewire still allow the mower to run? I've been using a multimeter to test chunks of the mowing areas and everything seems okay except for the charging station (admittedly my steps on testing were pretty much backward to your recommended steps!)
It will run with a broken guide wire alright but will have problems getting back to charge and will probably go dead in the garden unless u have a model with more than one guidewire
If you have a multimeter, instead of swapping the wires over, just do a continuity check on them at the base station. Probably best to unplug them first. I checked the voltage on my power supply but my multimeter wouldn’t pick up the voltage so I bought a new one assuming it was that but had the same issue. I had some spare wire so I temporality connected that in place of the “broken” wire (from the guide wire connection to the boundary wire) and immediately got a solid green light and of course my multimeter picked up continuity.
I have a flashing blue light on my 430x. I couldn't find a break. I even ran a fresh wire around another section and got the same flashing blue light. I tested the wire for continuity. 4.5 ohms for 250metres. I have 28v at my transformer but across the terminals for the boundary wire I only get 20v. I suspect the board may be faulty. Its frustrating and it has been a great machine until now. Any suggestions?
If you have 28 volts going into the charging station, but only 20 coming out, then I would suggest replacing the charging station board. BUT before doing that make sure to check you low voltage cable and see if the 28 volts is coming through it. We have encountered a few units with a an issue at the plug on the back of the charging station due to a power surge. A lot of times you can see that the plug is burnt by the pins in the connector when you unplug the low voltage cable. If you're unsure about replacing the charging station board then check out this video from the Robotic Mower Services channel: ua-cam.com/video/TFR3lwNpnag/v-deo.html
We get this signal every time it docks on the charger. We have to unplug and plug it in. Then it works again. Because of this our yard is not getting mowed. Aggravating.
I have a mower thst works sometimes. I have not been able to find any breaks. The no cable signal is on most of the time, but then once in a while there is signal again. Any thoughts on that? I looked into the secret service menu, and the test says that there is no cable signal there either.
Check the resistance between the left boundary wire and the right boundary wire. It should be be less than 20 ohms. If it's in the high teens then moisture or something else could cause the resistance to increase past 20 ohms and cause a no loop error.
Interestingly I have had a similar fault and when I connected the guide wire into each side of the main circuit it came up green both sides. I have previously repaired a break with a connector and as the ground is water logged at the moment I wondered whether moisture could have got into the connector. Is that possible and would the fact that on the shorter circuits the resistance would be slightly lower (my garden is nearly an acre) it might read a low enough to be green?
I am getting 28v at power supply into station, but on 6 or 7 volts at the poles out to the loop, that scenario isn’t addressed in your video. Any ideas??
I get a flashing blue light with one boundary wire loop connection disconnected but when I have both boundary wire loop connectors connected to the base station the LED does not light up at all? The mower shows the no loop error but the base station LED is not illuminated at all. Please help! Thanks
Tested outlet, and transformer, bought line tester, called Husqvarna multiple times. No Husqvarna installers or anyone who is knowledgeable in the area. Still blue light flashed.can anyone help or who to contact to get the mower operational. I think it will be good when it finally runs. Should I just see if I can send it back? Don’t know who can help.
Try this next. This will tell you if the boundary wire has a break, partial break, or if it is good. If it's good, then the issue could be your charging station board. ua-cam.com/video/Znz3L2P4hcU/v-deo.html
Any ideas for when my mower says no loop signal, but there is no flashing blue light? The mower does fine in 2/3 of my yard, but stops in the front section by the road and says no loop signal. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a green light, no broken wire as ended up replacing it all, starts charging around it charging matt and eventually starts then stops again and says no loop signal. Any ideas? Surely not power cable if light is green?
Hello I have the same problem us you .I have green light and when I have to start it counts down from 3 to 1 and then pops up a waiting message and I can't start the mower in either automatic or manual mode. Have you solved this your problem ?
Hi, I'm having a flashing blue light on my Husqvarna Automow 105 and went around the lawn with an AM radio and signal looks fine. Tested the power supply on both ends as per your instructions and outputs 27.8V so that looks alright. However testing the boundary wire connectors on the charging station only gives 25V. Is that enough ? Could that be it ? There were some thunderstorms in the area last week and I got the issue since then so I'm fearing the charging station got a power surge somehow... Thanks for replying.
25 volts sounds a bit low, but it's always best to double check the rating on the label of your charging station's transformer to see what it should be putting out.
@@EshlemaniaTV Hi, thanks for replying. Found the issue meanwhile. It was indeed a ruptured boundary cable somewhere in the middle of the lawn. Was quite a pain to pinpoint it. Thanks for your help and great video by the way !
Glad you were able to find the issue. We're working on a video to show how to get a better idea of where the break is, but just too many irons in the fire right now.
Anyone any experience with a dead base station? 28.0v in ok but only putting out 5.0v from L to Guide 1V between R and guide 0V between L and R. Flymo 1200r....just turned 2 years old!!
Yes, you should be fine, that is worst case 96% of the maximum theoretical charging voltage giving you an effective 184VA instead of 196VA. In the real world it means you may have a slightly longer charging time (again theoretically).
If there is no light at all then it would be either the power supply, low voltage cable, or the charging station board........as long as the outlet that the power supply is plugged into is working and putting out power. If you need parts check out www.roboticmowerservices.com or email them at Roboticmowerservices@gmail.com
My problem started with the mower having docked wouldn't start again due to no loop/flashing blue light. Took the docking station out, checked the terminals, all good - green light appeared by magic and mower went off happily. Same thing next day, checked everything connected ok, green light returned, mower went off to work again and founds its way home but then wouldn't depart an hour later. What could this be?
Thank you! I found the break just by taking a walk along the perimeter wire with an AM radio on MW tuning in for the "woodpecker" signal. Took off one connection on the perimeter wire and walked out from the one connected. Works best with radio perpendicular to the wire.
Thanks buddy back up and running here.
Wish I found this video before I pulled up all the cable and redid it😂😂😂😂
Good to hear!
Ya baby! Thanks!!!! ...my "no loop signal" was a not-properly-plugged-in charging cable ))) whoohooo!!!! Thanks!!!!
Glad we could help! Thanks for commenting!
Thanks brother second time, worked through the same steps, brokenwire by the fire place chopen' wood was the culprit. The is an Awesome Video. Thanks again. Great steps. Genius.
Awesome! Good to hear!
Thank you very much for this video/ tutorial! I have identified my problem with the 3 step and the smaller loops using the guidance cable! Thumbs up!
If this video helped, then be sure to check out all of the helpful videos on our Robotic Mower Services channel.
Thank you. This was very helpful when dealing with my first No Loop Signal error.
Got the dreaded blinking blue light, spending days screwing around with it, only WISH I had found and watched your video! Yes, using the guide wire to detect which loop to focus on is a Gamechanger. Minor note, of the 3 tests at the beginning of your video, IF you started backwards on those 3, you would save us time. In addition, I saw one video, I’ll have to go back and find it, that hitting two keys on the Advanced section of the Automower itself, you can get into the programming and make the automower follow your broken loop, to find it for you, at least that is what I think he was saying, but I’ll have to recheck. Thanks man, hopefully I’ll find the dreaded break shortly.
Do the voltage diagnostics in reverse if you want to save time. If your voltage coming out of the boundary wire clips is good then no need to work backwards toward the transformer or anything else. In diagnostics you always start at the farthest point of failure. Saves a lot of time
Bingo! Checked my boundary wire out stubs/point of contact and got my voltage. Therefore, no need to check transformer, etc., and no need for paper clips.
What should be the voltage coming out of these boundary wire contact points? 28V? I have a blue light and I measure 9V.
We had an accident with the weed trimmer; the power supply wire got wrapped up in the spool and caused the positive and ground wires to twist and touch each other so I assumed it fried my power supply. There was no light on the base station; so after testing the power supply it was reading 28.05, not fried; happy moment!
When inspecting the power cord at the base station I found the issue was only the wires pulled back out of the connector but not all the way so it was not obvious at first glance; another happy moment!
I could have found this if I started with checking wire integrity before power tests.
Thanks Dude! You had my problem figured out at the circuit breaker; such an obvious thing but didn't think of it!!!
Our flashing blue light after install was the guide wire connector/splicer - where it connects to the perimeter wire. For whatever reason, it didn't work. We replaced it with our own splicer.
Really Helpful! Great Video. Thank you!
Thanks for commenting
Excellent video it really helped to isolate and fix the problem thanks
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video. I got out the multi-meter and found that my 450x has a dead power supply after 1 year.
Man, I'll fly you to NC to get mine working. 😁
Send an email to Automowerguy@gmail.com and we'll try to get you back up and running
@@EshlemaniaTV Thanks for the reply. I believe it's the power supply. I have no lights on the base so I took my power supply to a dealer who has one running at their site and I asked them If I could plug in my power supply to their set up and sure enough No power. The crappy thing about it is that I dug up my entire yard and re-laid the wire this weekend in 85+ degree temps with 68 degree dew points... Guess I should have checked the power supply first, but who would have though a power supply would go out after roughly 4 months of use. Massive sun burn and a near heat stroke later, hopefully I'll be up and running this week Lol...
@@jeffraines414 Same issue here Jeff. I hope this isn't an annual issue.
wish I would have found this before I walked and tested my whole acre + yard. Problem as with the power supply. not plugged in properly
Skippy (my mower) is back on the job
If you're happy that your charging station, low voltage cable and power supply are all working properly, there's an easy way of finding a break in the wire. Get a small radio (what used to be known as a "transistor radio" years ago). Disconnect one side of the perimeter wire from the charging station. Set the tuning to AM on the radio, tune it to a place on the dial where it's not picking up any signal and hold it close to the boundary wire that's still connected. You'll hear a buzzing sound. Now follow that boundary wire from the charging station, holding the radio close to the ground. The buzzing noise will stop close to the break in the wire. The boundary wire that comes with an automower is effectlively an antenna....this method of finding a break simply makes use of that. :-)
The AM radio method works in many situations, but a tone tester works much better. We used the AM radio method for the first year or 2 of repairs, but switched over to using a tone tester like the one in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qOAvqpQlO7E/v-deo.html
We started using the tone tester because of interference from other utilities and items in the ground like dog fences, power lines, etc. With the tone tester it is a "beep" sent through the wire and it makes it easier to tell that wire from other items in the area. The tester in this video sells for around $40 on Amazon right now.
Hi - this is a great help. One question - why do you have to disconnect one side of the wire from the charging station?
One other hint for the tone tester. Get a tester with a sensor on the end of long wire. Mount the sensor at the end of a wooden dowel (I used duct tape). Now no bending down just walk the line.
Good suggestion
I'm working through trouble-shooting my 450x - one question I haven't readily found the answer to - if there is a break in the guidewire (not the boundary wire), would I get the anxiety-inducing blinking blue light? Or does a break in the guidewire still allow the mower to run? I've been using a multimeter to test chunks of the mowing areas and everything seems okay except for the charging station (admittedly my steps on testing were pretty much backward to your recommended steps!)
It will run with a broken guide wire alright but will have problems getting back to charge and will probably go dead in the garden unless u have a model with more than one guidewire
If you have a multimeter, instead of swapping the wires over, just do a continuity check on them at the base station. Probably best to unplug them first. I checked the voltage on my power supply but my multimeter wouldn’t pick up the voltage so I bought a new one assuming it was that but had the same issue. I had some spare wire so I temporality connected that in place of the “broken” wire (from the guide wire connection to the boundary wire) and immediately got a solid green light and of course my multimeter picked up continuity.
I've had 2 low voltage cables go and with no obvious damage to either, recently had the power supply go too, the one with the big white sticker
I also just did a really short loop from guide wire right and left then saw a green light so i knew my station and charger was good.
Great video! Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the great feedback. Glad we could help you out.
@@EshlemaniaTV A bad transformer/power supply in my case.
That's way easier than a broken wire. Hope you're back up and mowing again soon!
Hi how are you? I bought a used one. Can a dealer install it for me or they just do new ones?
I have a flashing blue light on my 430x. I couldn't find a break.
I even ran a fresh wire around another section and got the same flashing blue light. I tested the wire for continuity. 4.5 ohms for 250metres. I have 28v at my transformer but across the terminals for the boundary wire I only get 20v. I suspect the board may be faulty. Its frustrating and it has been a great machine until now.
Any suggestions?
If you have 28 volts going into the charging station, but only 20 coming out, then I would suggest replacing the charging station board. BUT before doing that make sure to check you low voltage cable and see if the 28 volts is coming through it. We have encountered a few units with a an issue at the plug on the back of the charging station due to a power surge. A lot of times you can see that the plug is burnt by the pins in the connector when you unplug the low voltage cable.
If you're unsure about replacing the charging station board then check out this video from the Robotic Mower Services channel: ua-cam.com/video/TFR3lwNpnag/v-deo.html
We get this signal every time it docks on the charger. We have to unplug and plug it in. Then it works again. Because of this our yard is not getting mowed. Aggravating.
I have a mower thst works sometimes. I have not been able to find any breaks. The no cable signal is on most of the time, but then once in a while there is signal again. Any thoughts on that?
I looked into the secret service menu, and the test says that there is no cable signal there either.
Check the resistance between the left boundary wire and the right boundary wire. It should be be less than 20 ohms. If it's in the high teens then moisture or something else could cause the resistance to increase past 20 ohms and cause a no loop error.
Interestingly I have had a similar fault and when I connected the guide wire into each side of the main circuit it came up green both sides. I have previously repaired a break with a connector and as the ground is water logged at the moment I wondered whether moisture could have got into the connector. Is that possible and would the fact that on the shorter circuits the resistance would be slightly lower (my garden is nearly an acre) it might read a low enough to be green?
Check with an Ohm meter for resistance. Or check this link ua-cam.com/video/sdxZq-znpYU/v-deo.html
So I assume you cn not use the guide wire to help narrow down the issue on the 310 ?
Why not? It would work the same way
I tried it it did not work so I had lots of wire left and made seperate loops and got it fixed
I am getting 28v at power supply into station, but on 6 or 7 volts at the poles out to the loop, that scenario isn’t addressed in your video. Any ideas??
Email roboticmowerservices@gmail.com and they will get you fixed up
I get a flashing blue light with one boundary wire loop connection disconnected but when I have both boundary wire loop connectors connected to the base station the LED does not light up at all? The mower shows the no loop error but the base station LED is not illuminated at all. Please help! Thanks
hi.Have flashing red light on my charging station. How to fix it? it's problem of inside or can clean the cable attack?
Tested outlet, and transformer, bought line tester, called Husqvarna multiple times. No Husqvarna installers or anyone who is knowledgeable in the area. Still blue light flashed.can anyone help or who to contact to get the mower operational. I think it will be good when it finally runs. Should I just see if I can send it back? Don’t know who can help.
Try this next. This will tell you if the boundary wire has a break, partial break, or if it is good. If it's good, then the issue could be your charging station board. ua-cam.com/video/Znz3L2P4hcU/v-deo.html
Any ideas for when my mower says no loop signal, but there is no flashing blue light? The mower does fine in 2/3 of my yard, but stops in the front section by the road and says no loop signal. Any help would be appreciated.
Could be some other underground cable or metal object interference
I have a green light, no broken wire as ended up replacing it all, starts charging around it charging matt and eventually starts then stops again and says no loop signal. Any ideas? Surely not power cable if light is green?
Hello I have the same problem us you .I have green light and when I have to start it counts down from 3 to 1 and then pops up a waiting message and I can't start the mower in either automatic or manual mode.
Have you solved this your problem ?
Hi, I'm having a flashing blue light on my Husqvarna Automow 105 and went around the lawn with an AM radio and signal looks fine. Tested the power supply on both ends as per your instructions and outputs 27.8V so that looks alright. However testing the boundary wire connectors on the charging station only gives 25V. Is that enough ? Could that be it ? There were some thunderstorms in the area last week and I got the issue since then so I'm fearing the charging station got a power surge somehow... Thanks for replying.
25 volts sounds a bit low, but it's always best to double check the rating on the label of your charging station's transformer to see what it should be putting out.
@@EshlemaniaTV Hi, thanks for replying. Found the issue meanwhile. It was indeed a ruptured boundary cable somewhere in the middle of the lawn. Was quite a pain to pinpoint it. Thanks for your help and great video by the way !
Glad you were able to find the issue. We're working on a video to show how to get a better idea of where the break is, but just too many irons in the fire right now.
@@EshlemaniaTV please do this as would be a great help! Thanks
Anyone any experience with a dead base station? 28.0v in ok but only putting out 5.0v from L to Guide 1V between R and guide 0V between L and R. Flymo 1200r....just turned 2 years old!!
Sounds like the charging station board needs replaced
Hi. My power supply gives only 26,3 V. Is that sufficient?
Yes, you should be fine, that is worst case 96% of the maximum theoretical charging voltage giving you an effective 184VA instead of 196VA. In the real world it means you may have a slightly longer charging time (again theoretically).
hey guys... I tested my charging station... it is coming out 25.7V... on the video, it comes out 31V... do you think that can be the problem? Thanks!
I have a 430x... I looked the charger and the output says 28v...
Anyone any experience with no light at all?
The automower will not charge, and I have no light at the diode in the charging station.
If there is no light at all then it would be either the power supply, low voltage cable, or the charging station board........as long as the outlet that the power supply is plugged into is working and putting out power. If you need parts check out www.roboticmowerservices.com or email them at Roboticmowerservices@gmail.com
My problem started with the mower having docked wouldn't start again due to no loop/flashing blue light. Took the docking station out, checked the terminals, all good - green light appeared by magic and mower went off happily. Same thing next day, checked everything connected ok, green light returned, mower went off to work again and founds its way home but then wouldn't depart an hour later. What could this be?