Building a Full-Range Bookshelf / Desktop Monitor Speaker - by SoundBlab
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- The first 1,000 people to use the link or my code soundblab get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/soundbl...
This high-end Full Range Stereo Speaker set was designed around the Markaudio CHR-70 4 inch full range driver in a front slot ported bass reflex enclosure. The goal was to have a premium quality point source full range speaker with premium quality parts that will not require a correction or crossover circuit. The Markaudio drivers are surely very good and perform with low distortion and overall very flat frequency responses out of the box, and are perfect for this application. When following the build plan, it can easily be built with everyday woodworking tools and by someone that does not have advanced woodworking skills.
BUILD PLANS: soundblab.net/...
PARTS:
- Markaudio CHR-70 Full Range Driver: (US) bit.ly/3EWtwQt , (EU) bit.ly/3vrR4JK
- Pair of Binding Posts: (US) parts-express.... , (EU) bit.ly/3wP4o8s
- Arylic Up2stream Plate Amp: bit.ly/39dTH9h
- ACPWorkbench DSP Software (optional for DSP tuning if using the Plate Amp): bit.ly/3y5Vnft
- Speaker wire (14 AWG): (US) parts-express.... , (EU) bit.ly/39erRI4
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Late to the video but wanted to add that slot ports and multiple ports vs single round have varying surface area and boundary layer effect.
I have found tight slot ports or narrower shapes can take more energy + lower the tuning to a degree.
Most important is rounding the port exits and making them symmetrical end to end
Looks like a bookshelf version of the Pearl Acoustics Sibelius
I am listening this video om mark audio Alpair 11 ms. with amplifier Behringer with digital crosover DCH2496 behringer, and i noticed , that the sound from the video witout DSP is better, than with DSP. It is more clean in the upper frequencies.
Very Very true.... Im just listening from my head set... Sound without the DSP is really really good....
That's exactly like mine same driver and pretty close enclosure including slot port... Mine just made out of birch plywood just clear coated, they do sound good, I just installed a filter to knock down that peak in the treble a little.
Oh and mine are passive.
Cool man! I am enjoying these a lot, even without a filter. Maybe i will include a filter option at some point just to tame the 13KHz region and see the difference.
One of the benefits of using a full-range driver, as Bose discovered ages ago, is that it's fairly simple to use DSP to correct the frequency response to tune it as you wish. You can also use a passive tuning network of various parallel notch filters or other filter types to attenuate the output as you need to get the result you want if your combination of driver and enclosure don't get you there on its own. Tuning a speaker becomes a bit more manageable when you've only got one to deal with.
Love your vids, keep them coming :) I'm keen to build a set of micro speakers with some Mark Audio full range drivers one day. Just need an excuse:)
Thanks!. It's never too late to start.
@@SoundBlab I’ve built 4 sets of speakers already, it’s addictive! Wondering how the mark audio 4” would go in a very small box with dsp. Say 0.8l. Only 1 way to find out.
Nice video, thanks! What kind of glue/spray do you use for the veneering?
Thanks! Soudal Contact Spray Transparent 2 in 1
Another quality build by SoundLab.
With the DSP. It definitely sounds better in my opinion. Especially when it comes to the female vocals.
A way to hot up your FR drivers for more khz.
Get some cheapies for practice. About 3 mm out from the start of the cone, make cuts right through the cone with a sharp razer blade. The cuts are like 8mm long (with 5mm gaps that are not cut) all around thecone. And repeat the process about 1 cm out from the start of the cone. And do it on the dust cap or remove it and construct a phase plug. Or with drivers with (stationary) phase plugs and (no whizzer cone).They are chiffy and you won't need one. Buy drivers without the whizzer. Best treble you ever heared (better than tweeters). Tweeters have air trapped inside, making them sippy. 😅 You get tweeter performance too! Along with my othet RANT, drum kits never sounded better, Cymbals so crisp (yet not fatiguing) and skins so addictively real! With the semi open sound (which also gives more khz) You get the benefit of the dipole open sound, but warm (cos of the box). Bass level is not compromised at all. 😅 You can hear the skin on the kick! It's PURE POINT SOURCE cos even the bass reflex system is point source. For the purists it's a breakthrough cos they can have more bass that is still point source.
TangBand W4-1337SDF a not better ?
Good question, I have not tried the two against each other yet. But will be interesting to find out. The Tang band is a much more expensive driver, so you would think it should perform better. Perhaps I will do a comparison one day.
its that 'it is as seen by score, but you prob dont need' case
livepro combo has this sort of experience as well
Try blocking the bass vent and remove the driver and put a 2" deep bass vent tube on the inside of the speaker hole. Now replace the speaker screws with extension screws, like 1" longer. The driver will be mounted over the hole, not in it, ok. Use soft thin sprinkler hose as spacers between the box and the dtiver. Have the top gap berween the box and the driver like 1/2" and the bottom gap is lIke 1". If you try this you will like it! And want to make more.The hard part is the size of the gap. The sprinkler hose is flexible, so you can easily fine adjust the gap with a screwdriver (and you can cut many different size spacers to experiment) (that's why I said "like" before each gap size). Try this quick experiment. Try freely holding the driver over the hole wnile playing. You will get a "wha-wha" effect (like sometimes in house music). Tonal balence changes in the voice sound. Go predominantly by the voice sound to get the best sounding gap. And it''s important to bass vent the speaker hole before mounting the driver to stop it from sounding bonky.
14:39 I guess you dropped the speaker, now you have squashed corner! LOL
Yeah, bummer! But I think I will just bevel the front baffle slightly. That should get rid of most of the damage.
I like all of your builds, straight forward and nice woodworking. However, I suggest you use other screws. The builds are so nice, but the screws are "screwing you over" on the looks :) Attention to detail. There are black socket head screws wich are self tapping, os simply machine screws with thread inserts. That would elevate your builds a lot :)
Also I have one question. Would the Arylic work also as 1 amp per box? To power mid and tweet with one plate amp and then feed the other the same signal? I have Hypex plate amps, but for a smaller build the Arylic would be fun. Thank you and keep up the great work!
I think it's an extra tweeters to get high well..
Nunca tinha visto esse tipo de alto falante. Myito bom seu video amigo gostei. E gostei da caixa de som e da placa. Bluetooth, e da mesa de audio...
Thanks
mark audio speakers do have a verry long burn in time.
the sound of this speaker will get gadualy fuller and softer over several month of dayly usage
Hi I always enjoy your videos. I'll try spray contact next time I veneer. That was lovely veneer. What timber is the veneer?
Thanks. It is Walnut.
A super result is a CHR-90 in the enclosure from hiraga le petite.
Couldn’t hear a frequency difference between non-dsp and dsp corrected but the soundstage/stereo effect sounded more open on the uncorrected version. It is subtle but noticeable in every track. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Listening to someone's setup recorded with a microphone, degraded by UA-cam and flavored by your own setup is just for getting a picture how it sounds. Not for analytic comparing, especially not something like 15k frequency range.
Unfortunately the sound chain is all we have in this case. I don’t have any preconceived ideas about which is better but the only thing that changed in the many layers of sound reproduction was the dsp correction. I heard a consistent difference between the dsp corrected and straight playback and wanted to share.
Great work. What glue was used to glue the veneer? - very interesting, because it looks quite easy compared to pva and iron))
Thanks. I think I used contact adhesive. Apply to both sides, wait 10 minutes, then apply.
Thanks)
Hi
I really enjoy your videos. Great stuff.
I can't get ahold of Markaudio drivers where i live. Is there an equivalent alternative? Perhaps the Visaton B100 or something? Thanks.
No alternative for this build with the same cabinet size. But any other full range driver is an option, you will just need to optimise the enclosure volume and port size according to its specs.
Just look on what is sold in Japan, fullrange country. Fostex Markaudio and some others
Good day Soundblab. Are DIY designs available for purchase?
I only sell build plans on my website at soundblab.net . I would re-use most of the components on my various DIY projects.
Good
Thanks
Nice build, thanks for sharing.
The DSP might help flat the response, but ruins clarity, sounding dinamicly compressed.
Yeah, I prefer with no DSP as well.
Probably has to do with the power response, seeing as it is a full range and will be more beaming in the treble which mean less highend overall into the room, so if you use the dsp to take out too much treble it means the off axis response will be too dark. If using dsp you should see what the off axis response is like and try to adjust for that instead.
Great looking speaker!
The copper cone sounds the best out of the three colors.
The CHR-90 in white paper sound more clearer.👍👍🇩🇪
Will you do a clip with Alpair 11MS?
Sorry, no I do not have plans to cover that driver.
i dont know, but i dont feel confortable to put a active digital crossover on anything! i prefer spent hours calculating and sometimes days experimenting passive crossovers until i find something what i think it suppose to sound, that way i can connect any amp and/or pre to make them sound as they should.
anyway thank you for reviewing this driver, i have an eye on him for a while, and now i know what will be my next project.
Same here, though I've never played around with them, but I think I'm going to get one of for anything it would allow me to try different crossover points quickly to see how they'll sound, then shoot for that with passive
This is a very nice driver to experiment with. I might try another project or two with it. I like it that much!
why not solder the speaker cable to the driver on the side of the cable to the coil?
Not sure what you mean? There are no coils in this design...
@@SoundBlab hmm. solder directly on the spider wire. if that makes sense.
Very very good! But people I think will appreciate more slim, lighter ones like soundbars that can be used as speakers easy to atach to the walls.
Thanks. And thanks for the input, I am looking at such a project for future.
That's what I did. Slap a class d amp in there and call it a day. Works like a charm.
Great build. They look nice.
Thanks 👍
Are there any significant difference between the CHR-70 and the CHP-70?
The CHP-70 has a paper cone and the CHR-70 is magnesium alloy.
@@SoundBlab Ah, alright. Does this result in any noticible difference in sound quality?
@@Viktor-rp3tx CHR sounds more modern, energetic. CHP more vintage, rolled off. Depends on the taste.
@@djurivoje Ah nice. Thank you!
Laminate thickness please
The plywood is 12mm and the veneer approximately 0.5mm
Thank goodness for DSP. One must have significant high frequency hearing damage to prefer the uncorrected sound, that 13kHz spike is literally ear piercing.
Yes, I built pretty much the exact same speaker passive, had to add a filter to knock that peak down.
That explains why they sound flat to me 🤣 I'm almost deaf at around 14k
@@attainableaudio4533 Hi, can you please tell me what were the component values and type of filter you used? Many thanks.
Why would it be ear peircing? A bulk of your treble sensitivity occurs below 10khz.
@@ubacow7109 guess it just depends on how sensitive your ears are
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Beautiful little bookshelves! I've always enjoyed a good point-source speaker, and these drivers seem like they may lend themselves well to a Critical Alignment system.
I will say, I'm not a fan of the DSP adjustment. It comes across as too flat and "soundtrack-y." In their natural form, I can sense a lot more natural presence and character to the sound.
I definitely see what you mean about the "forward" midrange. Fairly characteristic for a lot of smaller aluminum cone drivers, though, and I've had good luck in the past playing around with small rubber buttons glued to the back of the cone. You give up a hair of detail in the high frequencies, but it can really attenuate the ringy/bright midrange and bring it in line with the rest of the driver's capabilities. :)
Word of warning on these cones they are very fragile as in they will dent easily, ask me how I know, haha
I got a pair in 15.7l folded TQWT with BSC and in only takes about 2dB bump in the low range to make them sound much bigger than what they are. Sweet little driver. BSC is about 6dB with 8 ohm resistor and 1.4mH coil.
@@attainableaudio4533 I was smart enough to leave them unprotected with my kids in the room 🤦♂️
Where would you get those rubber buttons?
Thanks
Welcome
hii
😉👍🏻
Nice ! ty ty
Thanks
🇧🇷🤔👏👏👏
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Love your videos and you have done well again. Will this design work for Mark Audio Alpair 7MS? Thanks.
From the specs it looks like it can, but you will need to tune the port slightly differently.
These aren't full range
Full range drivers
hate dsp. good job otherwise.
Thanks. I do prefer the version without DSP.