We do as well. The next time that you do have a look in the attic space above if the area in question is below an attic. We would air seal and re-insulate the whole attic, but in a pinch the problem can likely be fixed just by placing some fiberglass insulation over top of the ceiling area where the mold has been forming. If the surface of the ceiling or wall does not regularly get below dew point temperature, than water vapor will not accumulate there and the mold should stop growing. Andy
So make sure there are baffles in place that are properly installed from roof sheathing to exterior overhang soffits and then blow the insulation tight to the baffles to insulate past the top plates?
If you have vented soffits, you want to first get the baffle down into the soffit area, we shoot for about 2-3" past the top plate. Then use something like a softly wadded piece of fiberglass to block between the top plate and baffle, then blow in your insulation. If you don't block between the baffle and top plate, you'll fill your soffits and block the vents there. Andy
To make the repair we pushed the fiberglass batt further out over the exterior wall top plate to get an effective layer of insulation over top of this area. We did not need to remove the baffle to do this.
Will this drywall need to be torn out entirely now and replaced once the problem is resolved? It's a porous material so I wouldn't think you can kill the mold.
@@horsefamily32 The drywall here has several layers of paint on it, so you can usually kill the mold on the surface and remove the staining. If you have solved the underlying reason for why water vapor is condensing there, the mold should not grow back. Unless the drywall has been seriously degraded, I wouldn't see a reason for its removal.
I have seen this problem often.
We do as well. The next time that you do have a look in the attic space above if the area in question is below an attic. We would air seal and re-insulate the whole attic, but in a pinch the problem can likely be fixed just by placing some fiberglass insulation over top of the ceiling area where the mold has been forming. If the surface of the ceiling or wall does not regularly get below dew point temperature, than water vapor will not accumulate there and the mold should stop growing.
Andy
So make sure there are baffles in place that are properly installed from roof sheathing to exterior overhang soffits and then blow the insulation tight to the baffles to insulate past the top plates?
If you have vented soffits, you want to first get the baffle down into the soffit area, we shoot for about 2-3" past the top plate. Then use something like a softly wadded piece of fiberglass to block between the top plate and baffle, then blow in your insulation. If you don't block between the baffle and top plate, you'll fill your soffits and block the vents there.
Andy
Did you remove the baffles?
To make the repair we pushed the fiberglass batt further out over the exterior wall top plate to get an effective layer of insulation over top of this area. We did not need to remove the baffle to do this.
Will this drywall need to be torn out entirely now and replaced once the problem is resolved? It's a porous material so I wouldn't think you can kill the mold.
@@horsefamily32 The drywall here has several layers of paint on it, so you can usually kill the mold on the surface and remove the staining. If you have solved the underlying reason for why water vapor is condensing there, the mold should not grow back. Unless the drywall has been seriously degraded, I wouldn't see a reason for its removal.