Great channel, just discovered it, it’s especially helpful since I’m reviving a 1956 Sedan Deville from a 35 year barn nap in central California. I’m hoping to pull a few more out of the slumber barn if I meet with great success like this one so far! But I also own a 1960 Fleetwood, so many of your tips and suggestions work on both of my cars. Thanks!
Hi. I just discovered your channel. You have a beautiful cadillac there!!! I have my parents 58 series 62 sedan they bought from a Doctor friend of theirs in 1960. I was 1 year old. Its Prestwick gray a with the same silver interior your car has . It was optioned up with power windows, wonderbar radio and the power antenna, and super rare Factory AC. Mom gave it to me in 1982, she was well aware I wanted it! Lol. Lifelong Southern California, it spent all its life in Palm Springs, unti 2002, when I moved near Redlands. Its nowhere near as pristine as yours. But respectable. Ive been running Castrol 20 50 in it for years, seems happy with that. I had the engine rebuilt 1st time, as the blow by was just to much to live with. They did a good job. Kept the crank, cam, rockers, and of course block, heads. I just retired last month, so the nice paint job and new interior I wanted to do may never materialize, but most importantly to me is to keep her on the road, and in as nice shape as I can. When and how did you aquire this beauty??
When I googled 1952 Cadillac oil type that’s what came up & it was on the Cadillac Laselle club, so I thought it was good advice. I’m super happy I seen your video before I drove it. I just did it this weekend.
Im have a 1949 Series 60 Fleetwood, When I drain the oil filter, & suck out the oil, I take paper towels, & clean all the old oil out of the cartredge. I use Rotella 30 weight oil. It takes 6 1/2 quarts of oil, & 3 table spoons of Zinc additive. I add almost 1 quart of oil in the filter, then close the filter. Then pour the rest of the oil into the engine. Then start the engine & let it run for about two minute's, Then let it sit for about 3 or 4 minute's, then check & it is always up to enough (SNUF)
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works It definitely helps someone who’s new to the classic Cadillac world. I just changed mine on Saturday, but I’m taking out that oil today & going with what I saw on your video.
I should change oil on one or two of my classics. I decided to buy an oil specifically for classic vehicles. Now I had to order it from the UK. Stupid enough it was still cheaper than ordering it in Switzerland where I live. I never added zinc or used Lucas stuff before. I could not even find anything in my country yet. I always using fuel guard from KENT and lead replacement in my tank though. Maybe I am dumping cash but I l love my old stuff. I think my cars are leaking a bit more when I use more modern oil. So I make this extra expenses and hope it helps.
I use a hose and siphon out most of the oil from the canister. Then paper towels to get the rest out. I noticed you were under the car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Not safe, but I'm sure you know that :) Since it isn't a full flow filter, is there really a benefit in pouring oil into the canister?
@Cadillac_Coach_Works Glad you have the lock! Still not sure how a full bypass filter makes a difference to whether there is a dry start. There is air at the top of the canister either way, and the oil pump pumps the same amount of oil toward the engine parts regardless of whether there is oil in the canister, unlike a full flow filter where the oil has to go through the filter to get into the engine.
@Cadillac_Coach_Works not being critical at all....just trying to understand better. just one other question....what is the brand of Zinc you use? One thing I do to try to prevent dry starts after a long time between starts is to build up oil pressure while cranking and only close the choke after the oil light goes out.
@brianandcindy1 well either way I put oil in the can so you can have the right amount of oil in the engine right off the bat. It's just a good habit of doing. It still flows through the filter as it is a filter. I know it's not a high pressure system but it still helps. Additive is hyper lube. It was pictured in beginning of video.
Pre filling the filter is useless, as these engines (before 1960), use a partial flow filter system. The filter is attached to the end of on of the longitudinal oil headers thru a calibrated orifice, then this filtered oil runs back in the pan via the timing gear. So it is not a full-flow system, yet a systems that filters the oil by coincidence. In those days the oil itself was the filter and was suppused to retain the dirt particles, hence the 2000 miles oil change intervals.
@franky5039 i like filling it for peice of mind and pre soaking filter And also making sure you have correct oul levels There's nothing wrong with doing that extra step
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works You're right, it does affect the oil level, so you don't have to refill after letting the engine run. From 1960 they used the full flow system with spin-on filter, wich is much much better. The 331's and 365's are known for having oiling problems. When I rebuild my 365, the oil pressure was within specs but not great, she would idle at 10 psi when warm and when cruising around 25..27 psi. Eventough i added Lucas stablizer, I sometimes would hear some noises. I took the pan of, and I added a few shims to the bypass-valve-spring on the oil pump (about 1/5th in). Idling pressure was instantly up to 20 or more and cruising around 35. You jest get an overal better oiling of the engine (imagine the oil squirting out of the conrod holes to the cyl walls) and faster oil delivery to the upper points of the systems. Engine ran much smoother since. (1956 Fleetwood). Greetings from Belgium! Keep up the nice work on you beautiful cars!
I haven't added trans fluid to my 59 in years as it was parked. Now that she's awake, I noticed Im goiing to have to add some. What are you using now for trans fluid. I see a bunch of multi use stuff that wasn't around when I had this car in regular use, and Im worried about possibly damaging the unit.
Great video. Good to see someone pointing out that oil isn't the same as it was when these automobiles were produced.
Great channel, just discovered it, it’s especially helpful since I’m reviving a 1956 Sedan Deville from a 35 year barn nap in central California. I’m hoping to pull a few more out of the slumber barn if I meet with great success like this one so far! But I also own a 1960 Fleetwood, so many of your tips and suggestions work on both of my cars. Thanks!
Hi. I just discovered your channel. You have a beautiful cadillac there!!! I have my parents 58 series 62 sedan they bought from a Doctor friend of theirs in 1960. I was 1 year old. Its Prestwick gray a with the same silver interior your car has . It was optioned up with power windows, wonderbar radio and the power antenna, and super rare Factory AC. Mom gave it to me in 1982, she was well aware I wanted it! Lol. Lifelong Southern California, it spent all its life in Palm Springs, unti 2002, when I moved near Redlands. Its nowhere near as pristine as yours. But respectable. Ive been running Castrol 20 50 in it for years, seems happy with that. I had the engine rebuilt 1st time, as the blow by was just to much to live with. They did a good job. Kept the crank, cam, rockers, and of course block, heads. I just retired last month, so the nice paint job and new interior I wanted to do may never materialize, but most importantly to me is to keep her on the road, and in as nice shape as I can. When and how did you aquire this beauty??
There is another video on the history of the car. It's on my channel. Check it out. Thanks
When I googled 1952 Cadillac oil type that’s what came up & it was on the Cadillac Laselle club, so I thought it was good advice. I’m super happy I seen your video before I drove it. I just did it this weekend.
I'll have to talk to the fellow board members. It could be an old post or thread
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works it definitely was I took a picture of it but I can’t share it here
@@AndrewGlanville-pk8tp feel free to email me at cadillaccoachworks@yahoo.com
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works I appreciate that. I watch all your videos. Where’s your shop located?
@@AndrewGlanville-pk8tp southern Los Angeles
Great video brotha!!🙏🏼
Thanks!
Im have a 1949 Series 60 Fleetwood, When I drain the oil filter, & suck out the oil, I take paper towels, & clean all the old oil out of the cartredge. I use Rotella 30 weight oil. It takes 6 1/2 quarts of oil, & 3 table spoons of Zinc additive. I add almost 1 quart of oil in the filter, then close the filter. Then pour the rest of the oil into the engine. Then start the engine & let it run for about two minute's, Then let it sit for about 3 or 4 minute's, then check & it is always up to enough (SNUF)
Alright...
Thanks I really appreciate your knowledge. That’s the combo I’m going with!!!
No problem. Here to help
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works
It definitely helps someone who’s new to the classic Cadillac world. I just changed mine on Saturday, but I’m taking out that oil today & going with what I saw on your video.
@@AndrewGlanville-pk8tp what oil did u use?
I should change oil on one or two of my classics. I decided to buy an oil specifically for classic vehicles. Now I had to order it from the UK. Stupid enough it was still cheaper than ordering it in Switzerland where I live. I never added zinc or used Lucas stuff before. I could not even find anything in my country yet. I always using fuel guard from KENT and lead replacement in my tank though. Maybe I am dumping cash but I l love my old stuff. I think my cars are leaking a bit more when I use more modern oil. So I make this extra expenses and hope it helps.
I use a hose and siphon out most of the oil from the canister. Then paper towels to get the rest out.
I noticed you were under the car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Not safe, but I'm sure you know that :)
Since it isn't a full flow filter, is there really a benefit in pouring oil into the canister?
I have a lock on the jack. And yes there is a benefit as you get the correct amount of oil and zero dry starts
@Cadillac_Coach_Works Glad you have the lock! Still not sure how a full bypass filter makes a difference to whether there is a dry start. There is air at the top of the canister either way, and the oil pump pumps the same amount of oil toward the engine parts regardless of whether there is oil in the canister, unlike a full flow filter where the oil has to go through the filter to get into the engine.
@@brianandcindy1 welp don't put any oil in your can and let me know what happens! Any other questions?
@Cadillac_Coach_Works not being critical at all....just trying to understand better. just one other question....what is the brand of Zinc you use?
One thing I do to try to prevent dry starts after a long time between starts is to build up oil pressure while cranking and only close the choke after the oil light goes out.
@brianandcindy1 well either way I put oil in the can so you can have the right amount of oil in the engine right off the bat. It's just a good habit of doing. It still flows through the filter as it is a filter. I know it's not a high pressure system but it still helps. Additive is hyper lube. It was pictured in beginning of video.
Pre filling the filter is useless, as these engines (before 1960), use a partial flow filter system. The filter is attached to the end of on of the longitudinal oil headers thru a calibrated orifice, then this filtered oil runs back in the pan via the timing gear. So it is not a full-flow system, yet a systems that filters the oil by coincidence. In those days the oil itself was the filter and was suppused to retain the dirt particles, hence the 2000 miles oil change intervals.
Btw, I absolutly love the 58 Fleetwood and your engine purrs like a kitten!
@franky5039 i like filling it for peice of mind and pre soaking filter And also making sure you have correct oul levels There's nothing wrong with doing that extra step
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works You're right, it does affect the oil level, so you don't have to refill after letting the engine run. From 1960 they used the full flow system with spin-on filter, wich is much much better. The 331's and 365's are known for having oiling problems. When I rebuild my 365, the oil pressure was within specs but not great, she would idle at 10 psi when warm and when cruising around 25..27 psi. Eventough i added Lucas stablizer, I sometimes would hear some noises. I took the pan of, and I added a few shims to the bypass-valve-spring on the oil pump (about 1/5th in). Idling pressure was instantly up to 20 or more and cruising around 35. You jest get an overal better oiling of the engine (imagine the oil squirting out of the conrod holes to the cyl walls) and faster oil delivery to the upper points of the systems. Engine ran much smoother since. (1956 Fleetwood). Greetings from Belgium! Keep up the nice work on you beautiful cars!
I haven't added trans fluid to my 59 in years as it was parked. Now that she's awake, I noticed Im goiing to have to add some. What are you using now for trans fluid. I see a bunch of multi use stuff that wasn't around when I had this car in regular use, and Im worried about possibly damaging the unit.
I use non synthetic reg ATF uoubuse that in power steering and trans
@@Cadillac_Coach_Works thank you
Cadillac Laselle club said to use Castro GTX 10/40 synthetic blend.
That's not good. To thin. I'm part of the so cal region. Who in the club did you talk to?
If you want to do it properly you pull the canister off and clean it!!!!!!!! Not rocket science
@@markpatterson7070the canister that holds the filter? That does not come off.