I am a novice painter. I do alot of buffing because i dont spray in a booth. I usually do 1500 wet by hand, 2000 by hand and 3k by hand all wet. And only have to buff once with 3m 36060 and medium cut foam pad. I get great results not ridler but for a daily its awesome.
We started using a foam interface pad when using 3000. Even on flat surfaces. It seems to help us with getting the most out of the 3000 grit paper. And using just enough water to keep things moist without completely flooding the panel helps as well.
Thank you I really appreciate all your knowledge. I'm currently replacing rotted rockers and floor pans in my 73 blazer. I'm going to cut and section the factory fender lines up and out to fit 44" tires for a "show" rock crawler I'm building. All your videos are helping me
Try this for small areas. Dollar store foam core board (the stuff with the plastic finish)and then glue on sandpaper, the 3M contact spray works good, and then cut whatever shape you want. . Get the white board so you can write the grit on the back.
Curious what pads and polishes you used? Out side of different levels of sanding have you tried different pads with different compounds and polishes to see if maybe a better combo their? You likely have, just be interesting to hear your feedback on that side of it. Thanks for the video and walkthrough on this one.
Hi JF, My thoughts are coming from pure ignorance on my part. 1. Spray the base coat (color) 2. Spray the clear coat. 3. Buff clear coat without removing the base (color). Apply as many coats of clear to reach the desired finish always buffing between each coat of clear. Does this make sense or is it necessary to sand the color to remove orange peel (over spray) ?
I do 5 coats of clear. Quick block with 600 then 800, 1000, 1200, 2000 trizact. Then buff with wool pad and polish. Works for me anyway. Never saw much use to sand past 3000.
I am going to watch your other videos and hopefully get an understanding of how you do things and products used….I was in same boat as you 5 years ago and 17 years ago…Very expensive and very tedious/time consuming…:.I might be in touch with you …See what happens …
I feel like this shouldn't be that hard especially with all the products available now. A couple of friends and I used to do this kind of work in the 90's (I did high end boat detailing, they worked in a body shop), we all had our own project cars, and we'd get together on a Friday or Saturday night and polish or fix something up over a few beers, as an opportunity to do some experimenting. It seems like with all the better products available this should be a piece of cake. Back then we basically had 3M wet/dry paper, anything over 2000 grit would be hard to get, 2500 eventually showed up, 3000 wasn't a thing, and engineered paper wasn't a thing either, you had 3M or Mequire's compound, polish and "sealant" (they each had their own names) then a few different choices of carnuba based waxes. Back then it was if the paint was really rough you'd start with 600wet, or usually 1000 or 1200 wet if the pain was fairly nice. 800 didn't exist, or at least the local shop didn't carry it. If it was regular production work you'd go to a rotary+wool pad+compound and then if it was a show car that would get driven then polish, sealant and some wax. Some soft paints would still have some very fine swirls in them that you could only see when you got within a few inches, but the sealant back then had some filler that would completely hide them. Mequire's Gold Class wax would have glycerine in it that would also fill them for a few days till it evaporated. There were old school tricks that involved corn starch or talc. For the more serious stuff after 1000 or 1200 we'd go to 1500 or 2000 and then go to compound and polish on a rotary. Clean pads, clean environment some nice wax after that and you'd have something as good as anything I've seen on a show car in the last 5 years. I feel like right now it would change a little depending on how bad what you're starting with is (yours was pretty nice from what you could see in the video) and how hard the clear is (you said yours was very soft) so I'd probably start with 1000-1500 (800 if it's hard or really pealed, 600 if there is damage to fix). 2000, 3000, I wonder if the 5000 that they have now would speed up the polishing further, but I've used the 3000 polishing headlights and that's pretty fine. From there I'd probably use one of the newer cutting compounds that is variable based on the pad used. So that's between 3 and 6 steps used + wax.
You can get fantastic results with 2000 by hand(sanding the opposite direction of your final sand), then rubbing at a low speed with a foam pad and polishing at a slightly higher speed. Then glaze with a DA. It's not dead flat but it looks great and one person can do a whole car in 2 days. I haven't found any advantage in using 3000 or finer other than it does take a shine a little quicker, but takes 3 times as long to get the haze out of. I always cut and buff the next day, so there's that variable. Great video, keep up the hard work!
@SketchysGarage yeah im about in the same boat. Usually hit it next day with 2000 and then 2500 if bad. Mostly just 2500 and then polish. But im just knocking nibs. Not going for completely flat. Maybe someday...
@thorntonboysgarage I get all the peel out, but it's not as flat as if you started with something coarser. On a high-end job, we normally go 3 coats clear, cut flat with 600, then 2 more coats of clear start with 1500, 2000,2500 then buff. To me when you go any coarser than 1500 it loses a little something. Jmo.
Please explain in writing what you've decided is your best procedure. All the cross talking left me not understanding the results. That hand sanding is going to give a better finish than orbital wet sanding?
I love your channel and you got great content. but man, I just didn’t think it was very cool. The way the older man opinions didn’t matter in the video and I get it. You’re trying to do everything fast because that’s time and money involved those projects, But that kinda look bad hey don’t get me wrong. I would still be your friend, if we got to hang out. once again great channel and God bless you, my friend
Cheaper as far as what business pay a painter but the regular amount or more goes into the company pocket. Cut the worker while charging the cost to the customer.
![Duracell Changes Color. [Ep. 151]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pe_Dpy0nH0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I am a novice painter. I do alot of buffing because i dont spray in a booth. I usually do 1500 wet by hand, 2000 by hand and 3k by hand all wet. And only have to buff once with 3m 36060 and medium cut foam pad. I get great results not ridler but for a daily its awesome.
We started using a foam interface pad when using 3000. Even on flat surfaces. It seems to help us with getting the most out of the 3000 grit paper. And using just enough water to keep things moist without completely flooding the panel helps as well.
Thank you I really appreciate all your knowledge. I'm currently replacing rotted rockers and floor pans in my 73 blazer. I'm going to cut and section the factory fender lines up and out to fit 44" tires for a "show" rock crawler I'm building. All your videos are helping me
Try this for small areas. Dollar store foam core board (the stuff with the plastic finish)and then glue on sandpaper, the 3M contact spray works good, and then cut whatever shape you want. . Get the white board so you can write the grit on the back.
I'm doing similar in my shop I'm starting now first sanding by hand with 2,000 then switch to orbital 3,000 4,000 and start buffing
now I understand why beautiful paint jobs are so expensive Kelly
You're one of the few then. Most people have champagne taste on a beer budget.
@@class5bodyworks😂 love it. That describes the majority perfectly. I'm using that one in future
Curious what pads and polishes you used? Out side of different levels of sanding have you tried different pads with different compounds and polishes to see if maybe a better combo their? You likely have, just be interesting to hear your feedback on that side of it.
Thanks for the video and walkthrough on this one.
Btw use a backing pad
Hi JF, My thoughts are coming from pure ignorance on my part. 1. Spray the base coat (color) 2. Spray the clear coat. 3. Buff clear coat without removing the base (color). Apply as many coats of clear to reach the desired finish always buffing between each coat of clear. Does this make sense or is it necessary to sand the color to remove orange peel (over spray) ?
I do 5 coats of clear. Quick block with 600 then 800, 1000, 1200, 2000 trizact. Then buff with wool pad and polish. Works for me anyway. Never saw much use to sand past 3000.
Very interesting. You can examine the scratches but the test piece wasn't blocked out so the results could be deceiving.
good job!
I am going to watch your other videos and hopefully get an understanding of how you do things and products used….I was in same boat as you 5 years ago and 17 years ago…Very expensive and very tedious/time consuming…:.I might be in touch with you …See what happens …
I feel like this shouldn't be that hard especially with all the products available now.
A couple of friends and I used to do this kind of work in the 90's (I did high end boat detailing, they worked in a body shop), we all had our own project cars, and we'd get together on a Friday or Saturday night and polish or fix something up over a few beers, as an opportunity to do some experimenting. It seems like with all the better products available this should be a piece of cake. Back then we basically had 3M wet/dry paper, anything over 2000 grit would be hard to get, 2500 eventually showed up, 3000 wasn't a thing, and engineered paper wasn't a thing either, you had 3M or Mequire's compound, polish and "sealant" (they each had their own names) then a few different choices of carnuba based waxes.
Back then it was if the paint was really rough you'd start with 600wet, or usually 1000 or 1200 wet if the pain was fairly nice. 800 didn't exist, or at least the local shop didn't carry it. If it was regular production work you'd go to a rotary+wool pad+compound and then if it was a show car that would get driven then polish, sealant and some wax. Some soft paints would still have some very fine swirls in them that you could only see when you got within a few inches, but the sealant back then had some filler that would completely hide them. Mequire's Gold Class wax would have glycerine in it that would also fill them for a few days till it evaporated. There were old school tricks that involved corn starch or talc.
For the more serious stuff after 1000 or 1200 we'd go to 1500 or 2000 and then go to compound and polish on a rotary. Clean pads, clean environment some nice wax after that and you'd have something as good as anything I've seen on a show car in the last 5 years.
I feel like right now it would change a little depending on how bad what you're starting with is (yours was pretty nice from what you could see in the video) and how hard the clear is (you said yours was very soft) so I'd probably start with 1000-1500 (800 if it's hard or really pealed, 600 if there is damage to fix). 2000, 3000, I wonder if the 5000 that they have now would speed up the polishing further, but I've used the 3000 polishing headlights and that's pretty fine. From there I'd probably use one of the newer cutting compounds that is variable based on the pad used. So that's between 3 and 6 steps used + wax.
Yes back in the 90’s we didn’t struggle either
The new products are horrible
How many coats of clear did you use and what brand clear thanks. Old school body guy here.
3 , matrix
How to read the TDS.
how many coats of clear or mil thickness do you start with on the jobs you start at 800 and go up with?
all depends on the product , if its a horizontal or vertical surface and the way its applied , we find we cut 1 to 1.3 mil of product off
You can get fantastic results with 2000 by hand(sanding the opposite direction of your final sand), then rubbing at a low speed with a foam pad and polishing at a slightly higher speed. Then glaze with a DA. It's not dead flat but it looks great and one person can do a whole car in 2 days. I haven't found any advantage in using 3000 or finer other than it does take a shine a little quicker, but takes 3 times as long to get the haze out of. I always cut and buff the next day, so there's that variable. Great video, keep up the hard work!
@SketchysGarage yeah im about in the same boat. Usually hit it next day with 2000 and then 2500 if bad. Mostly just 2500 and then polish. But im just knocking nibs. Not going for completely flat. Maybe someday...
@thorntonboysgarage I get all the peel out, but it's not as flat as if you started with something coarser. On a high-end job, we normally go 3 coats clear, cut flat with 600, then 2 more coats of clear start with 1500, 2000,2500 then buff. To me when you go any coarser than 1500 it loses a little something. Jmo.
Please explain in writing what you've decided is your best procedure. All the cross talking left me not understanding the results. That hand sanding is going to give a better finish than orbital wet sanding?
I love your channel and you got great content. but man, I just didn’t think it was very cool. The way the older man opinions didn’t matter in the video and I get it. You’re trying to do everything fast because that’s time and money involved those projects, But that kinda look bad hey don’t get me wrong. I would still be your friend, if we got to hang out. once again great channel and God bless you, my friend
How many coats of clear
3
Crazy that at the level you charge and the tools you have, you have no idea what your doing at this stage ... denim pad will be your best friend
Remember we film to assist others doing paint jobs .. we know what we’re doing - thanks 😊
I hate this part of every build. So tedious but my Babydoll likes it as it makes your hands so soft and smooth. Lol
Why can’t you block it flat with 800 or 1000 and once it’s flat use DA from there working up in grits?
It always ends up putting waves in the finish
Cheaper as far as what business pay a painter but the regular amount or more goes into the company pocket. Cut the worker while charging the cost to the customer.
400..600..800.1200..1500.2000..
You guys at like a bunch of women at a Bunco party.
Jamais sur mon auto noire