I just did a timing belt that went sour on a Honda Odessey. I ended up bending a valve on cylinder 1 (it’s my first timing belt) I was not aware rotating the cam 360 degrees would cause damage. now it has no compression in the cylinder. You have given me the confidence to do this job. And hopefully not make the same mistake twice thank you 🙏 you live and learn.
Great video, man! The last part was nerve wracking like "damn"!.... My brother just gave me an MDX that broke the timing belt on acceleration (roughly 10k miles after being changed by the dealership). He just gave it up and bought a Toyota instead.. Anyway, just done clearing up the timing belt area and now about to do a leak down test before boroscoping it down. Hopefully it's not a mess in there... I'll let the machine shop do basic valve job and resurface in case but I'll do the final rebuild after seeing your experience... More power to you brother. We need more guys like you!
Bruh. Thank you so much for this video and your explanations. I have been fearing a head gasket swap on my '08 Honda V6 J series. Seeing someone go through everything gives me some hope!
I was going to say , id be willing to bet that the "oil consumption " that you mentioned in the beginning was or is probably due to the VCM system. It is well known that it causes oil consumption and can shorten the life of the engine. Great vid btw.
Can you pls answer this question! It’s on 2016 Honda Odyssey, replacing time belt, after successfully put all pulleys to TDC marks, then removed the old time belt, while installing the new one the left cam moved to position 10:00 tried to pull it back using old belt as driver ( the other camshaft and crank shaft not connected), then it jump to position 2:00, tried to pull it back to mark position then it jump back to 10:00 position, didn’t hear any cracking sound, How can I fix this situation to put this camshaft to TDC position in order to install new timing belt? Appreciate your answer,
@nasserismail5284 the bank 1 rear or bank 2 front will stay naturally at its TDC. just use a wrench to get it into position, it's a balancing act essentially. But the gears will hold in its mark. I never had one that didn't Use a paint pen so you'll be able to see your timing marks well... paint the entire tooth of the gear also
This is about the MDX I mentioned above. I finally decided to just pull the other unaffected cylinder as well and will rebuild it together with Bank2 (bent #4 intake valves). What made me decide to do that was after checking the seals and O-rings on bank2, almost all are nearing end of life: rigid, plastic like feel instead of rubberized. These won't last 50k miles or at-least as long as the new ones. Plus, will take the opportunity to do valve mating surface reconditioning. The difficult part was loosening the nuts holding the cat converter to the head. My hands won't even fit in there; almost decided to just bring down the whole engine-subframe assembly. As the new parts delivery is delayed for like 1-2 weeks extra, this gave me more than enough time to measure things against factory spec and also clean things up. The Bank2 cylinder head by the way turned out ok. No measurable warping anywhere and even all valve guides were within spec. The bent #4 intake valves was all got affected by the timing belt breaking. Thanks for your video.
Good job bro! love your work ethic! You earned a subscriber. I repaired my rear bank head on my odyssey couple years ago. The smoke after the first start scared the crap out of me. I hope you get some money back from the machine shop for not adjusting the valve gaps properly.
Hello I have a gyration I pulled my front head off my 2015 Acura Rdx head I found a black plastic part between the 4 cylinder and the block in the area were the antifreeze flows at is that suppose to be there?
Good thinking with the valve adjustment use a wrench in case it goes out of adjustment while tightening . Everyone makes mistakes that's what makes you better good video my man 👍
Excellent video! I repair vehicles every day. Here's a bit of info your viewers might find helpful: You can place a dot mark on the top of the cylinder head bolts and then rotate the bolt until the dot mark has rotated to the appropriate angle degree......also, if you don't have an angle gauge degree wheel tool, you can download an angle gauge app to your phone, tape your phone to your tool with the angle app running and you will see a digital rendition of the angle movement (no shit). If a bore scope is not available to look inside the engine to see if the valves are bent, you can remove the cam shafts (doing this will close all the valves).......and you can then perform a leak down test (assuming you have air and an appropriate psi tool to pressurize the cylinders). When removing a cylinder head from an engine block, you WILL get a small amount of coolant which will pour down into the oil pan. To remove that small amount of engine coolant from the oil pan, you can remove the oil drain plug momentarily and the coolant will be the first liquid that drains out of the oil pan. Reinstall the oil drain plug as soon as the oil starts flowing out. To avoid coolant pouring into the oil pan you can remove the engine block coolant drain plug to remove all the coolant from the engine. On these Honda V6 engines, the engine block coolant drain plug is located above the passenger axle shaft & slightly towards the left of that shafts inboard c/v axle joint. Note: The engine block coolant drain plug is a 10mm bolt. It's made of brass metal. Very soft. This brass is very weak. This plug screws into a hollow bolt. To avoid damaging the 10mm brass bolt, remove the hollow bolt which the brass bolt screws into. The hollow bolt will easily leave the engine block without damage. Take care not to lose the crush washer when removing this hollow bolt.......or, you can simply leave that small bit of coolant in the oil pan and let the PCV system evacuate the coolant as it turns to vapor. When tightening with a torque wrench, I'll make as many passes as necessary to ensure all the bolts are exactly tightened to whatever torque value is specified. In the case of this Honda, the first pass is 22Ft pounds. By the time you've finished tightening that last head bolt to 22Ft pounds, the first ones tightened aren't going to be that tight any more because the head gasket becomes compressed. Always double check the valve lash clearance when dealing with fresh rebuilt cylinder heads.........as eager as you are to finish an automotive repair, the machine shop worker is as eager to finish working on cylinder heads. Corners get cut when wanting to finish a job. 🤔. I have the same Autel scan tool. I hate how it (sometimes) doesn't identify cylinder order in relation to cylinder banks. IE: Bank 1 being cylinders 1, 3 and 5 & Bank 2 being cylinders 2, 4 and 6.........to avoid confusion, I'll disconnect an ignition coil to intentionally create a misfire which allows me to determine how the Autel is presenting cylinder identification info. Overall, great video!
im doing the same engine now, and the way you did, is good, but missing import part the timing of it, i also notice that you put the both cylinder head without the intake, and i believe you took it apart again fit it in. beside that, is a very good video, is you have the timing part to share will be nice.
At 2:17 - I'm curious why the timing belt broke at 159k miles? Was this the original timing belt or a poor quality aftermarket belt or possibly too many years past? I believe the (conservative) Honda service interval is 105k miles or 8 years. BTW - awesome work on a big job!
A lot of folks with the J35 engine neglect the timing belt maintenance as it's not cheap, about 1k at a non-dealer, and a good deal more at a dealership. It's not something even in the mind of consumer really since I don't think there's anyone else using a belt.
Bro, this is about that MDX I mentioned to you above.. Finally got the chance to do a leakdown test (both dry and wet) and scoping : bent intake valves on #4. The rest are clear including all piston tops, bore walls, and also leak test results of rest of the cylinders (all were approx 3% at wet/ dry and at tdc and also at fully depressed pistons). I'm not able to make a compression test as I didn't want to buy parts (belt) without properly seeing what's up. Thank you for your video; used it as a guide coz this is my first japanese car as the rest of my previous project were all american. Anyway, quick question, do you see any problem of me just rebuilding the bank2 head by itself and not mess up with the bank1? Coz the way my brother carefully treated this vehicle (on time overall maintenance/servicing with OCI of every 3-5k miles) and nominal diagnostic results on bank1, I 'am actually afraid pulling that head based of how difficult it was on your video + including how tight it is dealing with the catalytic converter. Any pros and cons do you foresee? Model year was 2008 with only 110k miles which IMO low for its year. Thanks in advance.
Hey there. Thanks for the update. To be honest, if you got this far in diagnoses, I don't see how you can't do the head replacement. To answer, yes, you can just do the bad cylinder. I'm assuming you back tested everything, and you seem like you're in the clear. If I were you, with that much confirmation, then I would simply replace that one head or take it to the machine shop! You did the hard work which was diagnosing to isolate your issue, now the manual labor 😆 pulling the crap off! Trust me. One bolt at a time, label if you have to or take photos. When removing the converter, just pull the manifold bolts and mounting bolt to simply separate the manifold from cylinder head. Buy new head bolts and gasket set. Everything you need to do it correctly. You got this
There is a serious issue where companies take advantage of their employees, and with the cost of everything rising, those employees are just leaving knowing they are worth more, and they are being replaced with new employees that are willing to work for the pay since they don't know what they are doing, and quality is suffering. Couple that with companies trying to maximize profits and cutting corners. The last place I was working at was having profits issues, and as a result they kept implementing all these new rules that ended up hurting everyone since it took longer to do anything, and not only did it hurt our productivity, but everyone's profits. Including the business. Stress was raising and so was the cost to work there. Glad I got out, but I miss the work. Wish it wasn't run better.
We had this happen on our 07 Honda Pilot, had all the work done at our mechanic and now it is blowing oil smoke after it idles. They said the pistons were fine. Could they have messed up the job?
My timing chain popped as I was driving, which messed my engine up, assuming this exact thing happened because my car won’t crank at all, I thought my timing chain only needed to be replaced but later found out that the rear wheel that holds the timing chain was locked the other two were good, so I was told to replace the rear top cylinder, does this sound accurate to you?
@eldy1433 depending on how the belt/ chain break, the upper valvetrane will work but have leaking valve or lock up the cam all together. If you got it back in time and it runs horrible. Heads will need to come off or other test need to be performed. Visual inspection or various pressure test for the suspecting cylinder. If you have more questions just ask
I own a 2015 Honda Accord ex. I bought it with 74,000 miles and at first nothing was wrong with it. But yesterday it started making a slight ticking sound. And when I accelerate it a bit the ticking sound sounds louder and faster. No lights on dashboard… I need advice of what it can be and what to do.
Not too familiar with the 2.4s but I’d try cam chain tensioner first. I know the V6 3.5s do have kits for the timing belt, timing tensioner, pulley, tensioner pulley, and water pump. It’s just convenient since you’re down there already and you’ll need to do it in the future anyways if you want to take preventative measures.
Actually, first thing I’d do is make sure the sound is not coming from your accessory pulleys/ serpentine belt, so remove the serpentine belt and run it for a little bit. Not too much since your alternator and water pump (I believe the water pump runs off the belt on the 2.4 engines) are not running and it will cause your low battery indicator to show up on your dashboard (not too serious it’ll go away once you put the belt back on) and also may overheat your engine if you run it too long without water pump.
Did the shop say anything about the over tightening of the valves? Or did you not raise the issue with them? Interesting vid though. I do enjoy your diagnostic stuff more than the mechanical labor side. Seeing a problem get traced and sorted out is always the best part.
@@denorrisfreeman6933 cam sensors fail dude to normal wear and tear. Heat cycles can cause expansion and contraction of sensor itself separating internal connections or simply failed transitor
your best time to get the coolant that went into oil system during disassembly would have been on the bottom - right by the drain plug . and i always change oil - bring to temp = change again. a lesson most older say = I did the top half and now the bottom half went out = spun bearing or ?? = but the bottom of the engine bearings do not like antifreeze ?? just sayin '[
ive had a hell of a nightmare thats hopefully coming to an end with my 06 acura rl 260××× miles i sold it 2 years ago to some 17 y o kid and i traded my 01 bmw 330xi to the kid for 2k and my acura back on top and it had a blown head gasket i replaced the head gasket and cut the corners didnt take the heads to the machine shop just replaced water pump timing belt head gaskets and what not it was over heating and the radiator developed a crack i bought a radiator installed it and same shit it was over heating and exhaust in the radiator, i pulled the heads back off and headgasket issues or so i thought i took the heads to a shop this time my front left head had a crack i bought one from a wrecking yard in cali had it delivered to me in Washington took it to the machine shoo and that one failed the pressure test it had a crack in it i bought one off a dude in Portland who engined swapped his j series so he had extra parts. it passed the pressure test but needed a vaove job i did that and then when i got them back from the machine shop i threw the heads on threw oil and coolant in it and it ran like complete shit, missing on one bank i called amd asked of they did a valve clearance adjustment, i vpylda swore he said they would but they didnt i took the valve cover off and every single rocker arm was as tight as could be, and after having realizing that the whole rocker arm assemly was tight as shit and all the valve clearances were off while running the car several exhaust valves were bent and one of the rocker arms literally snapped off, but i have 2 spare heads so ive got spare exhaust and intake valves and rocker arm assemblys.. i replaced the exhaust valves put it all together and it still ran like shit but the blow by was gon after fixing the bent exhaust valves.. still running like shit and missing and smoke and what smells like gas vapor coming out the intake plenum and tb.. i pulled it apart and looked into the intake ports on the rear head and found that cylinder 2 had 2 bent intake valves.. i just replaced those today got it all back together by 930 pm and hooked the battery up and it was dead 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ sooo tomorrow we will seee 🤣🤣🤣😪
Just picked up an 08 Odyssey Touring for $750. Something on the tensioner side failed. Not sure what yet, but as soon as the cold weather breaks I'm digging in. I don't know the extent of the damage yet, but I pray it is just needs a new Timing kit. The belt is intact, and still turning the cams. Supposedly 25 mph, and they towed home, but Freeze Frame data shows 65 mph, so fingers crossed. I can turn the engine over by hand, and it doesn't seem like it is binding from hitting valves.
V6 J series right? They are interference engines, so very unlikely that absolutely zero damage has occurred (assuming that timing has jumped). I’ve had the same thing happen to me where I got too excited when the engine turned with no interference but since the valves do bend from the impact of the piston hitting it trying to make its way to the top, especially going 65 mph, it’s very likely the pistons have already cleared their way to the top of the cylinder, no longer making interference with the bent valves.
@@JoeMomma. The timing belt tensioner pulley failed and the timing belt cut through the timing belt cover. The valves were hammered real hard. I ended up replacing the heads, and did a bunch of work cleaning, replacing, upgrading, and fixing everything under the hood. It is running now. I have put countless days and hours into restoring this van. Currently working on tearing out the interior and deep cleaning everything. I have cleaned the front half, and still need to get to the back half. I also ran wires throughout it, and will be installing a battery bank, and doing some modifications. I have done too many things to count, but I am posting it all on odyclub under Royal biggsters 2008 touring. I have not updated it in some time though, and need to sit down and go through the thousand or so pictures and explain each step and each mod, just too many things to juggle right now, so I will do this once I am finished. Which will be soon, since it is going on vacation on the 2nd of July.
Man happend to me ..timing belt snapped on my 2000 acura tl ...i knew it was gonna break ...no acceleration so i threw it n neutral then it snapped ..throwing it in neutral saved my ass ...did water pump, timing ect ..was shook to start her ...started her and she was a ok ....luckily i didnt junk it thinkn valves were bent ..
You have skills. My 1998 Honda Accord has 52,000 miles. The milage is low the previous owner kept it in storage for many years. I don't know if i should change the timing belt now because it is a old car or wait until the car have 80,000 miles
Nice video, definitely subscribed now. Also i recommend removing head bolts in a cross pattern just to reduce the chances of stretching/warping the head since they are aluminum and always thread in by hand first when reassembling. Also did you get the heads resurfaced or just had them do the valves and whatnot? Keep it up man nice vid.
The fact that HONDA cheapened out on these when their competition has been using timing chains ages ago is beyond me! Even their "supposed" bread & butter 3.0L turbo V6 of today is still using timing belts... like wth Honda!?!?
@@partsshooter that was a lot of work and I could hear your lfrustration at the end. I wondered about the price. A friend has a broken timing belt . Im considering just replacing the engine with a used one as opposed to replacing the belt only to find out the engine is bad.
I know it PYO to have to go back and redo some idiot not doing it's job right, but I know you glad you went the extra mile. DON'T WANT THAT KAREN COMING BACK TO YOU
Man you never tighten the lock nut on valve adjustment, with a socket! You have to hold the jam nut with wrench so it doesnt move. No way t do that with a socket over the top of jam nut! No way did u adjust valves right!
hey body do you mind to give me your email , i like to see if you can help me out with questions. i got the valve head for 2015 honda pilot and i got some question before put it in place. im A DyI
@@partsshooter at the top valve at side bank 1,2,3 has on bolt right at top, i mean the new one i bought and the original old don’t, do i have to remove it, trying to see at your video and it seems doesn’t have that bolt
hi body i did the same job you did at this video, include adjusting the valves, and after all in place, i took the car for ride and it came with eco light and after that showing a error code p3400, and missing fire at bank 1 , also code p300 multiple cylinder misfire p o303, po302, po301, any idea what. could be the issue? can u help?
@@partsshooter I did watch the whole video! But saying the running for awhile would fix a miss isn’t right! Also, you never adjust valves wirhout a wrench hold the adjuster as you tighten the jam nut! No way a socket can do that right! 43 year mechanic here, just saying, if you put info out there, do it or show it right! I can tell you know a lot, but we have to do things right, or other Rookies will follow bad advice!
@MitchGaar ask me if I care about your experience. You're the one watching my video. Not the other way around. My video has a resolution. I'm detailed in what I do. If you don't like it, Scotty or Chrisfix is a click away from you. This video encapsulates the conflict and resolution to the issue. Why are you complaining?? I'm confused
I just did a timing belt that went sour on a Honda Odessey. I ended up bending a valve on cylinder 1 (it’s my first timing belt) I was not aware rotating the cam 360 degrees would cause damage. now it has no compression in the cylinder. You have given me the confidence to do this job. And hopefully not make the same mistake twice thank you 🙏 you live and learn.
Charged her for a timing belt/ water pump job and gave it back to her with bent up valves? 😂
@@Fred-xo3ku no I fixed it for her bent valves and all.
@@franciscogomez2565 a guy that knows what he's doing. That's rare most of the time in this field. 👍
@@Fred-xo3ku thanks!
So your saying, you didnt match all 3 markings?
Great video, man! The last part was nerve wracking like "damn"!.... My brother just gave me an MDX that broke the timing belt on acceleration (roughly 10k miles after being changed by the dealership). He just gave it up and bought a Toyota instead.. Anyway, just done clearing up the timing belt area and now about to do a leak down test before boroscoping it down. Hopefully it's not a mess in there... I'll let the machine shop do basic valve job and resurface in case but I'll do the final rebuild after seeing your experience... More power to you brother. We need more guys like you!
Bruh. Thank you so much for this video and your explanations. I have been fearing a head gasket swap on my '08 Honda V6 J series. Seeing someone go through everything gives me some hope!
I was going to say , id be willing to bet that the "oil consumption " that you mentioned in the beginning was or is probably due to the VCM system. It is well known that it causes oil consumption and can shorten the life of the engine. Great vid btw.
Wooh!!!! My 05 Odyssey just hit 365,000k miles never did the belt still running. 😊 Good luck with that manufacture flaw buddy.
Can you pls answer this question! It’s on 2016 Honda Odyssey, replacing time belt, after successfully put all pulleys to TDC marks, then removed the old time belt, while installing the new one the left cam moved to position 10:00 tried to pull it back using old belt as driver ( the other camshaft and crank shaft not connected), then it jump to position 2:00, tried to pull it back to mark position then it jump back to 10:00 position, didn’t hear any cracking sound, How can I fix this situation to put this camshaft to TDC position in order to install new timing belt? Appreciate your answer,
@nasserismail5284 the bank 1 rear or bank 2 front will stay naturally at its TDC. just use a wrench to get it into position, it's a balancing act essentially. But the gears will hold in its mark. I never had one that didn't
Use a paint pen so you'll be able to see your timing marks well... paint the entire tooth of the gear also
This was one of the best videos on car repair I’ve seen in a long time great job I’m subscribed.
Good deal, thanks
This is about the MDX I mentioned above. I finally decided to just pull the other unaffected cylinder as well and will rebuild it together with Bank2 (bent #4 intake valves). What made me decide to do that was after checking the seals and O-rings on bank2, almost all are nearing end of life: rigid, plastic like feel instead of rubberized. These won't last 50k miles or at-least as long as the new ones. Plus, will take the opportunity to do valve mating surface reconditioning. The difficult part was loosening the nuts holding the cat converter to the head. My hands won't even fit in there; almost decided to just bring down the whole engine-subframe assembly.
As the new parts delivery is delayed for like 1-2 weeks extra, this gave me more than enough time to measure things against factory spec and also clean things up. The Bank2 cylinder head by the way turned out ok. No measurable warping anywhere and even all valve guides were within spec. The bent #4 intake valves was all got affected by the timing belt breaking.
Thanks for your video.
Thanks for the update
good video we need more mechanics like you out there
Good job bro! love your work ethic! You earned a subscriber. I repaired my rear bank head on my odyssey couple years ago. The smoke after the first start scared the crap out of me. I hope you get some money back from the machine shop for not adjusting the valve gaps properly.
work ethic, drive it, it might clear up? Really?
Hello I have a gyration I pulled my front head off my 2015 Acura Rdx head I found a black plastic part between the 4 cylinder and the block in the area were the antifreeze flows at is that suppose to be there?
as always! Master! Keep educating us and share the very informative content.
Best video so far! I'm about to knock mine out. Ten thumbs up!
Honda should not be using timing belts in this era Nissans got chains
Good thinking with the valve adjustment use a wrench in case it goes out of adjustment while tightening . Everyone makes mistakes that's what makes you better good video my man 👍
57:10 always the most nerve wrecking. Especially when your buddy is there to tap a part simulating a knock. lol.
Many thanks indeed for sharing valuable experiences. All the cheers, from Korea.
Excellent video! I repair vehicles every day. Here's a bit of info your viewers might find helpful:
You can place a dot mark on the top of the cylinder head bolts and then rotate the bolt until the dot mark has rotated to the appropriate angle degree......also, if you don't have an angle gauge degree wheel tool, you can download an angle gauge app to your phone, tape your phone to your tool with the angle app running and you will see a digital rendition of the angle movement (no shit).
If a bore scope is not available to look inside the engine to see if the valves are bent, you can remove the cam shafts (doing this will close all the valves).......and you can then perform a leak down test (assuming you have air and an appropriate psi tool to pressurize the cylinders).
When removing a cylinder head from an engine block, you WILL get a small amount of coolant which will pour down into the oil pan. To remove that small amount of engine coolant from the oil pan, you can remove the oil drain plug momentarily and the coolant will be the first liquid that drains out of the oil pan. Reinstall the oil drain plug as soon as the oil starts flowing out.
To avoid coolant pouring into the oil pan you can remove the engine block coolant drain plug to remove all the coolant from the engine. On these Honda V6 engines, the engine block coolant drain plug is located above the passenger axle shaft & slightly towards the left of that shafts inboard c/v axle joint.
Note: The engine block coolant drain plug is a 10mm bolt. It's made of brass metal. Very soft. This brass is very weak. This plug screws into a hollow bolt. To avoid damaging the 10mm brass bolt, remove the hollow bolt which the brass bolt screws into. The hollow bolt will easily leave the engine block without damage. Take care not to lose the crush washer when removing this hollow bolt.......or, you can simply leave that small bit of coolant in the oil pan and let the PCV system evacuate the coolant as it turns to vapor.
When tightening with a torque wrench, I'll make as many passes as necessary to ensure all the bolts are exactly tightened to whatever torque value is specified. In the case of this Honda, the first pass is 22Ft pounds. By the time you've finished tightening that last head bolt to 22Ft pounds, the first ones tightened aren't going to be that tight any more because the head gasket becomes compressed.
Always double check the valve lash clearance when dealing with fresh rebuilt cylinder heads.........as eager as you are to finish an automotive repair, the machine shop worker is as eager to finish working on cylinder heads. Corners get cut when wanting to finish a job. 🤔.
I have the same Autel scan tool. I hate how it (sometimes) doesn't identify cylinder order in relation to cylinder banks. IE: Bank 1 being cylinders 1, 3 and 5 & Bank 2 being cylinders 2, 4 and 6.........to avoid confusion, I'll disconnect an ignition coil to intentionally create a misfire which allows me to determine how the Autel is presenting cylinder identification info.
Overall, great video!
Great, HONEST work, as always! 👍
im doing the same engine now, and the way you did, is good, but missing import part the timing of it, i also notice that you put the both cylinder head without the intake, and i believe you took it apart again fit it in. beside that, is a very good video, is you have the timing part to share will be nice.
At 2:17 - I'm curious why the timing belt broke at 159k miles? Was this the original timing belt or a poor quality aftermarket belt or possibly too many years past? I believe the (conservative) Honda service interval is 105k miles or 8 years. BTW - awesome work on a big job!
A lot of folks with the J35 engine neglect the timing belt maintenance as it's not cheap, about 1k at a non-dealer, and a good deal more at a dealership. It's not something even in the mind of consumer really since I don't think there's anyone else using a belt.
Bro, this is about that MDX I mentioned to you above.. Finally got the chance to do a leakdown test (both dry and wet) and scoping : bent intake valves on #4. The rest are clear including all piston tops, bore walls, and also leak test results of rest of the cylinders (all were approx 3% at wet/ dry and at tdc and also at fully depressed pistons). I'm not able to make a compression test as I didn't want to buy parts (belt) without properly seeing what's up. Thank you for your video; used it as a guide coz this is my first japanese car as the rest of my previous project were all american.
Anyway, quick question, do you see any problem of me just rebuilding the bank2 head by itself and not mess up with the bank1? Coz the way my brother carefully treated this vehicle (on time overall maintenance/servicing with OCI of every 3-5k miles) and nominal diagnostic results on bank1, I 'am actually afraid pulling that head based of how difficult it was on your video + including how tight it is dealing with the catalytic converter. Any pros and cons do you foresee? Model year was 2008 with only 110k miles which IMO low for its year.
Thanks in advance.
Hey there. Thanks for the update.
To be honest, if you got this far in diagnoses, I don't see how you can't do the head replacement. To answer, yes, you can just do the bad cylinder. I'm assuming you back tested everything, and you seem like you're in the clear. If I were you, with that much confirmation, then I would simply replace that one head or take it to the machine shop! You did the hard work which was diagnosing to isolate your issue, now the manual labor 😆 pulling the crap off!
Trust me. One bolt at a time, label if you have to or take photos. When removing the converter, just pull the manifold bolts and mounting bolt to simply separate the manifold from cylinder head.
Buy new head bolts and gasket set. Everything you need to do it correctly.
You got this
@@partsshooterThanks man. Appreciate it.
There is a serious issue where companies take advantage of their employees, and with the cost of everything rising, those employees are just leaving knowing they are worth more, and they are being replaced with new employees that are willing to work for the pay since they don't know what they are doing, and quality is suffering. Couple that with companies trying to maximize profits and cutting corners.
The last place I was working at was having profits issues, and as a result they kept implementing all these new rules that ended up hurting everyone since it took longer to do anything, and not only did it hurt our productivity, but everyone's profits. Including the business. Stress was raising and so was the cost to work there. Glad I got out, but I miss the work. Wish it wasn't run better.
Honda cylinders are
123 Rear bank
456 Front bank
Came here to say this
yea that's what I was thinking I was like wait what?
Nice work Parts shooter! Watched the entire vid and I'm more informed as a result. Where are you located?
Hey brother what mileage did this outlet go at?
We had this happen on our 07 Honda Pilot, had all the work done at our mechanic and now it is blowing oil smoke after it idles. They said the pistons were fine. Could they have messed up the job?
PCV and EGR valves? So, what was the outcome?
Great Video man. Learned a lot from it.
My timing chain popped as I was driving, which messed my engine up, assuming this exact thing happened because my car won’t crank at all, I thought my timing chain only needed to be replaced but later found out that the rear wheel that holds the timing chain was locked the other two were good, so I was told to replace the rear top cylinder, does this sound accurate to you?
@eldy1433 depending on how the belt/ chain break, the upper valvetrane will work but have leaking valve or lock up the cam all together.
If you got it back in time and it runs horrible. Heads will need to come off or other test need to be performed. Visual inspection or various pressure test for the suspecting cylinder. If you have more questions just ask
If you dont know how to adjust the valves, how is everything else done right?
great job, and awesome troubleshooting
Hello! Great vid! What are the Pressure switches??
It's said in the video
its part of the VVT 9variable valve timing system
Question ❓ when u say bank 1 or bank 2 r u talking about the row of cylinders or wat is it??????
Yes v6 so set of three is one ☝️ bank so 1and 2 bank = v6
@@diybetterbasics7379 so ur saying that v6 an v8s have bank 1 an bank 2???
@@josearana7704 yea for v8 set of two rows of 4 cylinders for v6 set of two 3 cylinders
@@diybetterbasics7379 thanks for the info 👍 bro
I own a 2015 Honda Accord ex. I bought it with 74,000 miles and at first nothing was wrong with it. But yesterday it started making a slight ticking sound. And when I accelerate it a bit the ticking sound sounds louder and faster. No lights on dashboard… I need advice of what it can be and what to do.
4 cylinder?
Not too familiar with the 2.4s but I’d try cam chain tensioner first. I know the V6 3.5s do have kits for the timing belt, timing tensioner, pulley, tensioner pulley, and water pump. It’s just convenient since you’re down there already and you’ll need to do it in the future anyways if you want to take preventative measures.
Actually, first thing I’d do is make sure the sound is not coming from your accessory pulleys/ serpentine belt, so remove the serpentine belt and run it for a little bit. Not too much since your alternator and water pump (I believe the water pump runs off the belt on the 2.4 engines) are not running and it will cause your low battery indicator to show up on your dashboard (not too serious it’ll go away once you put the belt back on) and also may overheat your engine if you run it too long without water pump.
Did the shop say anything about the over tightening of the valves? Or did you not raise the issue with them?
Interesting vid though. I do enjoy your diagnostic stuff more than the mechanical labor side. Seeing a problem get traced and sorted out is always the best part.
They'll look out for next time with a discount. But that's not what I want, ì just wanted to make them aware
What makes the camshaft sensor go out
@@denorrisfreeman6933 cam sensors fail dude to normal wear and tear. Heat cycles can cause expansion and contraction of sensor itself separating internal connections or simply failed transitor
You 've got an exceptional talent, sir.zyra
Hello Sir Watching here Sending support to your channel Love the Content🥰
your best time to get the coolant that went into oil system during disassembly would have been on the bottom - right by the drain plug . and i always change oil - bring to temp = change again. a lesson most older say = I did the top half and now the bottom half went out = spun bearing or ?? = but the bottom of the engine bearings do not like antifreeze ?? just sayin '[
ive had a hell of a nightmare thats hopefully coming to an end with my 06 acura rl 260××× miles i sold it 2 years ago to some 17 y o kid and i traded my 01 bmw 330xi to the kid for 2k and my acura back on top and it had a blown head gasket i replaced the head gasket and cut the corners didnt take the heads to the machine shop just replaced water pump timing belt head gaskets and what not it was over heating and the radiator developed a crack i bought a radiator installed it and same shit it was over heating and exhaust in the radiator, i pulled the heads back off and headgasket issues or so i thought i took the heads to a shop this time my front left head had a crack i bought one from a wrecking yard in cali had it delivered to me in Washington took it to the machine shoo and that one failed the pressure test it had a crack in it i bought one off a dude in Portland who engined swapped his j series so he had extra parts. it passed the pressure test but needed a vaove job i did that and then when i got them back from the machine shop i threw the heads on threw oil and coolant in it and it ran like complete shit, missing on one bank i called amd asked of they did a valve clearance adjustment, i vpylda swore he said they would but they didnt i took the valve cover off and every single rocker arm was as tight as could be, and after having realizing that the whole rocker arm assemly was tight as shit and all the valve clearances were off while running the car several exhaust valves were bent and one of the rocker arms literally snapped off, but i have 2 spare heads so ive got spare exhaust and intake valves and rocker arm assemblys.. i replaced the exhaust valves put it all together and it still ran like shit but the blow by was gon after fixing the bent exhaust valves.. still running like shit and missing and smoke and what smells like gas vapor coming out the intake plenum and tb.. i pulled it apart and looked into the intake ports on the rear head and found that cylinder 2 had 2 bent intake valves.. i just replaced those today got it all back together by 930 pm and hooked the battery up and it was dead 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ sooo tomorrow we will seee 🤣🤣🤣😪
@@SunnyWhite-y3v just let that nightmare go lol 😆😂🤣
@@SunnyWhite-y3v a buick century is a better car honda and Acura love them timing belts buicks have chains no headaches lol 😆
I know you're use to that "sinking feeling in your stomach" by now. Keep me updated and what happens in the leading days
Just picked up an 08 Odyssey Touring for $750. Something on the tensioner side failed. Not sure what yet, but as soon as the cold weather breaks I'm digging in. I don't know the extent of the damage yet, but I pray it is just needs a new Timing kit. The belt is intact, and still turning the cams. Supposedly 25 mph, and they towed home, but Freeze Frame data shows 65 mph, so fingers crossed. I can turn the engine over by hand, and it doesn't seem like it is binding from hitting valves.
V6 J series right? They are interference engines, so very unlikely that absolutely zero damage has occurred (assuming that timing has jumped). I’ve had the same thing happen to me where I got too excited when the engine turned with no interference but since the valves do bend from the impact of the piston hitting it trying to make its way to the top, especially going 65 mph, it’s very likely the pistons have already cleared their way to the top of the cylinder, no longer making interference with the bent valves.
You did also post this 3 months ago so let me know how it went if you already tackled this job.
@@JoeMomma. The timing belt tensioner pulley failed and the timing belt cut through the timing belt cover. The valves were hammered real hard. I ended up replacing the heads, and did a bunch of work cleaning, replacing, upgrading, and fixing everything under the hood. It is running now. I have put countless days and hours into restoring this van. Currently working on tearing out the interior and deep cleaning everything. I have cleaned the front half, and still need to get to the back half. I also ran wires throughout it, and will be installing a battery bank, and doing some modifications. I have done too many things to count, but I am posting it all on odyclub under Royal biggsters 2008 touring. I have not updated it in some time though, and need to sit down and go through the thousand or so pictures and explain each step and each mod, just too many things to juggle right now, so I will do this once I am finished. Which will be soon, since it is going on vacation on the 2nd of July.
How much does a job like this cost?
$5000+ if a shop or dealer does it.
Man happend to me ..timing belt snapped on my 2000 acura tl ...i knew it was gonna break ...no acceleration so i threw it n neutral then it snapped ..throwing it in neutral saved my ass ...did water pump, timing ect ..was shook to start her ...started her and she was a ok ....luckily i didnt junk it thinkn valves were bent ..
Just out of timing no bent valves 3.0 or 3.5 are non interference
How many miles were on the belt when it broke ?
I think he mentioned 159k
Does oil get into the coolant when this happens?
Not for bent valves, no
@@partsshooter could it happen though if the head gaskets failed?
@@xESPplayer500x yes
@@partsshooter thank you brotha!
You have skills. My 1998 Honda Accord has 52,000 miles. The milage is low the previous owner kept it in storage for many years. I don't know if i should change the timing belt now because it is a old car or wait until the car have 80,000 miles
Change it due to age.
Nice video, definitely subscribed now. Also i recommend removing head bolts in a cross pattern just to reduce the chances of stretching/warping the head since they are aluminum and always thread in by hand first when reassembling. Also did you get the heads resurfaced or just had them do the valves and whatnot? Keep it up man nice vid.
They probably just don't have a lot of experience doing heads, so they probably just told her they don't have the means to do so.
I done many of these never seen one bend a valve never
The fact that HONDA cheapened out on these when their competition has been using timing chains ages ago is beyond me! Even their "supposed" bread & butter 3.0L turbo V6 of today is still using timing belts... like wth Honda!?!?
@@philhenderson3516 I agree
OMG I had a blown head gasket. Fixed that but when to put my timing back and can’t seem to get it. **Come do my car please 🙏🏼
You did all that and can't line up the marks... you pulling my leg right???🫣😅
@@partsshooterRight 😂. I think i have more wrong with it but can’t seem to find any answers!!!
@kylarae8484 what's happening? Be real detailed, and maybe I can help. Write a lot if need be
Often times when a whole bank is getting misfire the timing belt is off by just one tooth on that cam.
How much did this total job cost?
This job takes 22hrs. Can cost around + - 4k depending what's replaced
@@partsshooter that was a lot of work and I could hear your lfrustration at the end.
I wondered about the price. A friend has a broken timing belt . Im considering just replacing the engine with a used one as opposed to replacing the belt only to find out the engine is bad.
Set the timing back no compression because its out of timing
What this job cos the customer?
About a 15hr job. I should state labor time in video as I do most
I know it PYO to have to go back and redo some idiot not doing it's job right, but I know you glad you went the extra mile. DON'T WANT THAT KAREN COMING BACK TO YOU
Watching over here
You got to send the head to a machine shop
Man you never tighten the lock nut on valve adjustment, with a socket! You have to hold the jam nut with wrench so it doesnt move. No way t do that with a socket over the top of jam nut! No way did u adjust valves right!
a simple compression test will tell you where the problems are if you dont have a camera
you did great
@@platypus1926 thanks
Sending support
Wouldn't owner be cheaper buying a new car?
Probably sentimental value lol
Repair it and get rid of it is what I would do can't trust it unreliable vehicle especially if you drive to work
That vavle not bent these are non interference
j series engines are most definitely Interference engines
@@SunnyWhite-y3v I never heard of one with bent valves
@@SunnyWhite-y3v the 3.2 and 3.0 honda accord engine not interference engines
For 900 you could replace the entire engine
Different people have different prices.... 900 is cheap here and offering 1yr warranty
@@partsshooter yup you right because alot of them 2000 and up
I hate using Timing belt on V6 engine. Why can't they use timing chain??? Stupid Design.
I totally agree
Bro if you can’t torque the headbolts by the book then I can 100% guarantee your headgaskets will leak.
Nah.... they don't. Maybe one day you'll be right though
You been better off pulling the engine save time
hey body do you mind to give me your email , i like to see if you can help me out with questions. i got the valve head for 2015 honda pilot and i got some question before put it in place. im A DyI
Ok
Trying to send email to @partsshooter and not working
@@partsshooter at the top valve at side bank 1,2,3 has on bolt right at top, i mean the new one i bought and the original old don’t, do i have to remove it, trying to see at your video and it seems doesn’t have that bolt
hi body i did the same job you did at this video, include adjusting the valves, and after all in place, i took the car for ride and it came with eco light and after that showing a error code p3400, and missing fire at bank 1 , also code p300 multiple cylinder misfire p o303, po302, po301, any idea what. could be the issue? can u help?
please when you around and if you don,t mind to give a heads up. and share some touch . i will appreciate . thanks
Valve not bent
How so?
Drive it and it will clear up? Really?????????????
Yes
@@partsshooter never heard that one before! Wow
@@MitchGaar yes. That's why you should watch the entire video
@@partsshooter I did watch the whole video! But saying the running for awhile would fix a miss isn’t right! Also, you never adjust valves wirhout a wrench hold the adjuster as you tighten the jam nut! No way a socket can do that right! 43 year mechanic here, just saying, if you put info out there, do it or show it right! I can tell you know a lot, but we have to do things right, or other Rookies will follow bad advice!
@MitchGaar ask me if I care about your experience. You're the one watching my video. Not the other way around.
My video has a resolution. I'm detailed in what I do. If you don't like it, Scotty or Chrisfix is a click away from you.
This video encapsulates the conflict and resolution to the issue. Why are you complaining?? I'm confused
❤😂🎉😢😮😮😮
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