Sail Life - Drying out the hull (osmosis) and replacing old deck core - DIY sailboat refit
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video, I continue to work on drying out the hull as a part of an osmosis treatment and work on replacing the old core in the deck.
Products mentioned in this video:
Makita dust shroud:
US: amzn.to/2ulMm1o
UK: amzn.to/2tVzRbP
PDF about osmosis: www.passionforp...
The PDS is written by Nigel Clegg. See more here: www.passionforp...
For more information about the commercial HotVac product: www.hotvac.com/
HOTVAC is a trademark of PMW ENTERPRISES LIMITED.
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I watched this 5 years ago. It was refreshing to be reminded of the efforts you put in. Now I need to find the videos where you 'glassed' the hull stringers. Cheers
18:56 This is the best sequence in your entire channel! Mainly because I didn't expect it. I don't understand the horse, but I like how the pieces of plywood move.
I don't think I would ever disagree with you. You are VERY thorough and knowledgeable. Smart work with the vacuum and heat.
I award you 52 extra OCD bonus points for the scarf joint 😁 Great work as always!
Whenever we start feeling overwhelmed by our project, we watch yours. Hats off to you Mads.
Hehe, thanks :) The main bulkhead aboard Lealea looks amazing! Such a cool refit. I can't wait to see her when you're all done :)
My God I love the way you are so thrall. If In lived near you I would volunteer to work for you on the boat just to learn from you. What a mentor you would be. You are great.
With all your work and innovations, Athena is coming along just great Mads. With any luck it looks like you will achieve your goal and have her in the water before it gets too cold.
You just made my Sunday morning. The scarf joints you made in the plywood inserts were elegant. I love that type of joint. The increased surface area created makes for bonding strength that is unmatched by other types. I use them in making 20 foot in and out wales for my canoes. Those joints must hold 1.25" x .75" strips of ash firmly together. Matching the grain the pieces look like one long strip and the joint is the strongest part of the entire strip. By temporarily screwing them together you've made an unassailable bond. The angle grinder dust control tool, gotta get me one. Mikita is good stuff. Finally, a proper scarfing jig is key to making the joints perfect and easy. Nice, nice work.
A cliff hanger! Looking forward to seeing how the section of deck core dries out! Have a great week Mads and thank you for the shout out ;-)
I'm in awe- the way you make a scary job like repairing a wet core look easy!
I love how you feel it's necessary to defend your choices in your design from random people on the internet. I typically only discuss my design with my customers, random armchair quarterbacks don't even rate an explanation.
Except you could have sent him and email explaining this and chose, instead, to display it for all the armchair quarterbacks that you so deride. He obviously defended his decisions because there are many who will hear several sides of an argument and he wanted them to know why he chose his particular choice. You obviously chose to make this comment to make yourself look superior. It didn't work.
Mads...don't let anyone give you grief over using the plastic sheet to get a vacuum on the small section of plywood on the forward port deck. That is exactly how our mechanics get a vacuum on a honeycomb repair for a flight control surface prior to it going into the autoclave. Well done! Thanks for sharing your DIY journey on Athena! I'm finding that my week just isn't complete without my Sail Life video.
My Sunday morning coffee would not be complete, without your videos. It's amazing what can be achieved with some forethought and little planning and huge dollop of perseverance. Great job.
Really good stuff mads...the only thing i dont like is when the video comes to an end :)
Thanks! Hehe, I'm glad that is the only thing you don't like :D
Steven Hepple yeah..the end is always shitty... mads..cant you just quit your daytime job..and do more usefull things for us???? ;-))))))
I don't own a boat, nor am I a "Boater". However, this channel is hands down my favorite! Keep it coming Mads! Your in depth narration and education is much appreciated.
Silicosis !! Please protect your lungs and wear a proper mask .My 43 year old next door neighbour is dying a slow and very cruel death from exposure to silica. Apart from the safety concerns your work is great
Yes mads When I sold insurance could not sell live insurance to people working with silica.
Definitely you do not rush on the work.
And that is fundamental to do it right and avoid mistakes.
Speed comes with experience.
wow, cannot believe how wet the old deck was! Another great video.
I like the look on your face and the cinematography of the shot at 4:28
As always, a great DIY learning experience from you, Mads. I want to also thank you for (previously) introducing us to Andy's channel. I'm about to take ownership of a 1975 Grand Banks 42 here in Seattle and its teak deck is shot. Thanks to learning from you and Andy I think that I can largely handle any deck core issues that I find once the teak is gone (and not to be replaced).
Hi rob, ive had some dealings with decking and core on a grand banks Alaskan 49, Your in for a fun time. on the 49 the core plywood was not marine grade and fell apart much like Mads deck core. If you are not replacing the teak with ?
Martin Martin The plan at this point is to just repair where needed and go with Awlgrip and non-skid. That's much less maintenance and gives me the option later to re-install a new teak deck or a faux teak deck if whim and finances are in alignment. For a boat of this age my broker says (and I agree) that no teak may be more desirable to future buyers. Fortunately if I choose to replace it there is a highly regarded teak decking company near Nanaimo B.C. which specializes in pre-cut pre-manufactured teak decks which are vacuum bag epoxied to the fiberglass decking (so no screws!), but that decision if I make it will be down the road a few years.
Great videos! If the IT business goes sour for you and you get tired of sailing, you could easily become the next Mr. Rogers! I think you would be great at hosting a show like that. Cheers!
"Mr. Mads' Boat Yard" I'd watch it.
Mads, that's right. Suggest you drop the IT gig and get into video editing. Its right in your "wheelhouse" and you can do it on the boat.
Another awesome video and well done Mads. I also like your explanation for using plywood again. I think a lot of people go way overboard doing the repair using the most expensive unobtanium, super permanent materials when the facts are plain old plywood, improperly installed lasted 30 years. Properly installed...60 years? 70? who knows?
Enjoying your DIY videos. You have the genuine kindness of teaching, a sharing of your experience, and the positive attitude towards all of us who are watching. It's like Mr. Rogers - a wonderful promoter towards bettering humanity through educational services of his media - PBS. Keep it going, Mads! Cheers!!
Incredible attention to detail and impressive patience as well. What fun to watch the progress! Three thumbs up!
Wilma is going to throw a hissy when she realizes you've been two timing with that magical unicorn. Great vid Mads, your how-to's are among the best out there in tube-land.
The builder probably planned to install a windlass on that plywood reinforced area you discovered on the port side of the bow. Good luck with your project!
If I may make a suggestion that I have used when glassing. Put on more than 1 pail of gloves at a time, that way when your gloves get resin on them you just simply remove contaminated gloves and still have clean gloves on your hands. Hope this works for you. I enjoy watching your videos, you do nice work and explain what and why you are doing it.
Thank you Mads for showing me your lovely boats and all the care you are doing to bring you one step closer to your dreams.
Mads, with a significant amount of recoring work ahead of you, you may want to consider West System's epoxy/hardener large capacity metering pump....pump the handle for a quick 5:1 dispense, add your thickening agents and then mix. A lot quicker! Great videos buddy...keep it up!!
Wish I could leave a double like. I'm learning so much. You are doing such a good job of DIY and content creation. Thanks.
So happy you figured out how to dry out your hull! You are really becoming an expert on fixing water damage on boats.
great work. no need to justify your decisions it's your boat, your money and your fun DIY videos. love the videos :-) your making crazy progress seems like only yesterday you were buying the boat!
Ah ha ha ha the stop motion sequence is gold, reminds me of kids shows back in the late 80s.
I thought it is a hommage to Frank Howarts work.
Great video. Great job on Athena. In your own vernacular "you are pretty danged amazing Mads." Your perseverance and patience is incredible.
Glad to see the vacuum mat and heat is working out fine for you.
Wonderful videos and very instructive. I hate to sound like a safety nag, but I have to say that after seeing you scoop that silica and mixing it in open air, with clouds of powder flying about, I advise you take every precaution to avoid breathing the stuff, which can cause very serious lung disease (on par with asbestos fibers!). When I mix this stuff in my own shop I do so in an enclosed transparent box set up for the purpose in which I carefully scoop the silica into my epoxy batch, being careful to minimize making the powder airborne, and mixing it within the confines of the box until it is well incorporated in the liquid before taking it out into the open air. I also wear a good quality dust mask as an additional precaution. Like they say, "no boat is worth dying for"....
Now that you have vacuum technology, you can use it for clamping force on repairs or glass layups. Adding a little heat was excellent idea for drying purposes. An if your tape on the hose did not work, just wrap the hose with some of your sealant tape where it crosses the bag border. It may look like smashed ass, but if you are pulling more tha 20 inches, it looks like success. Really enjoy the vids.
Mads, how to lower the boiling point of water: As an old avionics tech, before calibrating altimeters, a hard vacuum was pulled atop the mercury tube. This vacuum reduced the water molecule boiling point to room temperature so any remaining moisture vapor
could be sucked out. Hope this helps. Jack aka electricalpowerguy
Loving your vids. Loving seeing your confidence grow even more. It is great to hear the most polite version of "its my boat not yours and this is how im doing it." in a long time. Keep up the great work.
Your editing skills are starting to feel like some Entry Jedi Level stuff...lol...seriously, in this video, you reach some next level editing...the walking sticks, short time lapse little jobs, even the music - the improvement is noticeable!!!! Keep up the good work, people appreciate these little bits and they add a ton to the dynamic of your DIY video projects at Athena. "Strong is the force becoming, at your editing skills, young padawan. Remain in this path, you must!!!!!!" (by Editing Yoda)...lol...
Great video Mads. An easy way to do a scarf joint (if you have to do a lot of them especially) is with your router. Mount it on a nice flat board, and then build a couple of ramps for either side of your plywood. It has to be easier than cutting those by hand, though I am guessing that you do not have a ton of them to do.. :)
Thank you Sail Life for these really unique vídeos!
As always awesome video, a 25 minutes video will be perfect
All going well Mads, you are making great progress. The pump background noise was hardly noticeable on the video!
Another enjoyable episode in your saga. Thanks, Mads.
love your laid back fun diy videos. keep it up! I watch every Sunday from Alaska! Thank you!
Another great video. As a boat builder I have a few tips that you could try. Just stick the mastic tape to your vacuum bag instead of the job especially on small areas it makes the pleats easier. When spreading the thickened epoxy on the inside skin use a notched spreader (west system has them) it gives a consistent thickness to the glue. I would also drill small holes (2 mm) in the ply and foam at 50-100mm centres (don't have to be perfect) to help any air and excess epoxy squeeze out. Looking forward to your next video.
Great video again - spiffing stop go element as well. Keep up the great videos and the great work. Can I suggest a dehumidifier set up inside the boat close to where you are heating the hull - not running forever only when the hull is being heated from the outside. Good luck.
At this point, I'm just hoping you're able to sail as well as you're restoring your sailboat! Did enjoy the moving wood sticks. LOL
Hey Mads. I have an alternative to your drill, fill, and drill process. I found some fiberglass tubes, made from carbon fiber glass. they come in just about any size you want. I bought some tubes that were 1/4 inch inside diameter ( for 1/4 inch bolts) then drilled holes that were the same as the outside diameter of the tube. I mixed up some thickened epoxy, and epoxied the tubes into the hole. The advantage here is that you won't drill too close to one edge of you "filled" hole, the other advantage it that it won't crack from stress.
I would watch these for hours. They're really interesting. Thanks again Mads
Another great video Mads. Have spent the last 2 weeks trawling through your entire collection that make addictive viewing. Love your positive can do attitude and attention to detail. Cheers
Great Video. I can't wait to see you walking on a nice better than new deck.
another great video Mads, and there is nothing wrong with your vacuum bagging technique. I seen boats built with much worse when they are attempting to vacuum bag the hull. as long as it holds a vacuum that's all you need, and just an FYI you will probably never reach 30 inches of mercury vacuum. I believe 29-point something is the most you can get in our atmosphere. It's been awhile since I've dealt with that technology so I may be a little off.
Hi you say that Balsa is used as a core in the cabin top , the reason it could be in good shape is that it's all end grain so if water enters some where it won't spread but will be isolated to that spot due to the nature of end grain so not spreading it also has great compression strength as a boat builder it's my preferred choice if laid property. All the best your doing a great job that will pay dividends.
Dear Mads, I'm new to your channel and just wanted to say thank you for all your fantastic work . It is amazing what you've achieved in such a short time . You really are going the extra ( nauticle ) mile (without short cuts)to fulfill your goals and dreams.
I hope their will be many videos or adventures to follow.
Your diy - sailing - mix really got me hooked . I even became interested to learn more about sailing, thanks to you .
Sorry for my bad English ( must sound very German -Ish )
Cheers
Andreas Weber
Ps no answer required hence you're very busy 😉
Great video Mads, jump board jump. The only thing that I am concerned with is the integrity of the plywood at the edges of your deck. I remember your saying it pretty much had to stay but hope it's still good all around once dried. Best wishes!
Presumably, since you are pulling a vacuum on Athena's hull you will be using this unique opportunity presented to you to draw in new polyester resin, replacing the water drawn out, filling voids in the laminate, and consolidation any dry resin free areas of fibre glass mat
Excellent video! Thanks, Mads!
Really enjoying your videos! the deck core replacement and hull drying are fascinating.
Great video! Thanks, Mads!
Great update Mads. Materials that are available in your area would be best imo as well. Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
Always a great way to start the week.... thumbs up from me again.
great episode Mads!!
this comment is to agree more than anything else the idea of changing the core is something that I try not to do, if it's wooden the load has been calculated with this in mind to change the material would mean doing a lot of calculations to get it right
I would also like to say thank you for your time and effort in doing these videos they are great to see
Well it worked for 30 years, that is better than most items. So replaced with good wood and sealed another 30 years would be my expectation.... Waiting on the next video..
Great that the heat/vac system is working....Must admit I was worried it might not.
Try hooking up the vacuum pump and heater to a timer, so you can leave with it on knowing it will automatically shut off at a certain time.
Great video! Loved the stop motion part 😊👍
Recently discovered your videos. I really enjoy them! Nice work!
Flip a large styrofoam cooler over your vacuum pump with a small hole to let the air out and it will muffle the noise. I made a homemade version with sheets of foam to build a box around my air compressor. It makes it about 75% quieter.
In one of your earlier vids I thought I heard you call them 'moisturements'. Thats great word economy so from now on thats what I call them!
Love it! I usually don't come back to channels on youtube, and tend just to browse around, but this is really relaxing to watch! I've worked on new boats here on the West Coast of Sweden, (Hallberg-Rassy and Najad) doing Fiberglass work, it's a couple of years ago i did that, but i enjoy watching you do this, since you are so calm and serious about your work!
Hi Mads, replacing with the same is sensible as it is known to work and affordable.
That is an awesome video! Thanks for a great combination of insight, snappy editing, good lighting and brevity! I look forward to going back through your other videos. (PS: I have total shop envy right now!)
Much progress, thanks again for a great episode.
boat is looking great, well done !
Good progress Denmark!
I use the CFS silica, with west system, works just as well as the west system but is near free in comparison cost wise. Actually i prefer it, noticeably less clumpy. All the west colodial i have ever use has nitcably hard clumps unlike the CFS.
The pumps do drip, but it wipes up just fine even after a few weeks with acetone, it does not harden, just gets gummy!
As to the syringe, use the 1.2mm green tips works a lot better or if you can find them the plastic tapered nozzels are even better as you can cut them back to your desired width with a knife.
No, I agree with your choice to put the deck core back in as it was designed. The plywood appears to me to be have been used to stiffen the center of the deck for whatever reason. It certainly might appear to somewhat limit any twisting motion of the hull or at least transfer that sort of loading to where the architects desired those stresses be properly applied. It may also have been used to provide a center span loading area to bolster the rest of the deck. Without knowing for sure why it was put there I for one do not think removing it would be the smartest thing anyone could do.
Great video, the hot vac system is excellent.
Another great video Mads, thanks for posting!!
The Ad at the beginning gives me time to Like your video's before Sail Life even starts.
You're doing such a great job on Athena ! Thanks for sharing with so many details, it's really instructive.
Another great video Mads.
Wow! Super polished work.
Thanks Mads, and love the animation.... :)
So encouraging to see your hull drying solution proving to be so successful. Thanks for sharing your progress. I am interested in seeing what else lies below the deck skin as you make your way aft. ps. I'd be quite happy watching 5 - 10 mins longer :) also enjoying the input/dialog from Boatworks Today.
Loved the animation! Too much for your workload to ask for more? ;-)
Whoa fancy finding you here :) I guess everyone who is into boats is here. Love the blogs.
Mads;
1) You can place a foam lined cardboard box over the pump to act as a muffler
2) Why are you not using a felt liner in between the heated mat and the hull?
3) Why did not use the vacuum pump to suction the main deck spar down?
Thx Mads, I really enjoy the videos.
So happy for your impressive progress, Mads!
Looking great!! Great progress!!
Well prepared. Thanks for sharing.
Good stuff ,, plugs for holes , looking forward to seeing this plan next vid
I need to do similar work on a trawler I am buying, thank you for the instruction. And plywood is whatcha need in places for the core!
Truly amazing diy video. I learned a great deal from this video. Thank you so much Mads for sharing your experiences with all of us. P.S. I agree with your reasoning for using the same materials on the deck.
Coming along nicely!
Did anyone else think about cheesy pizza when he pilled the vacuum matt off?
Mason Stapleton I started feeling hungry...dang hungry.
Stephen Gibson I just had a banging burger so sadly I can't say the same about the hunger
Eating pizza while watching :)
Walter Amory legend
Mason Stapleton I thought of Asterix and Obelix, when they are in Switzerland. There is that fondue party where participants are not supposed to loose the bread on a stick...
your microphone works great. I can't hear the pump.
I swear, I hate not seeing Athena everyday...lol. Great job.