Great video. just bought a 2010 RX 350 (170k), and I'm slowly getting a handle on maintenance. Did PCV, Air Filter, Cabin Filter, marker lamps, bought oW-20 synthetic and the filter, rear shocks as well as the bracket that holds the top of the rear shocks with all new bolts, new sway bar bushings, and currently awaiting the delivery of front rotors and pads, so this video is perfect timing for me...then differential fluid and transfer case oil (it's AWD), but debating about transmission fluid drain and refill, as well as coolant flush. I've heard replacing the coolant can help avoid the head gaskets corroding and leaking since the gasket is metal, so I'm all for that...thanks again for the excellent video.
Spray brake cleaner inside where the caliper pins go and wipe out the holes. Hit those brackets with a wire brush before installing the new hardware, transfer the OEM shims to the new pads
At 5:15 you don't have to hit the rotor with the hammer to get it out. That will damage your rotor, unless you look to replace it. There are two holes on the rotors where the studs are. Use the M8 x 1.5 (I believe. Check it) and screw it into one of the hole. That will push the rotor out!
hello , I didn't hear you saying to open up the brake fluid container to easily push back the piston . Or I am Wrong? the last time I change some brake pads was 3 years ago. lol.
@Beyond Life Here are the front end videos. We don’t have any painting videos tho. 88-98 Chevy K1500 front end rebuild with Mevotech TTX ball joints and tie rods ua-cam.com/video/VQ6Y5VoUQBw/v-deo.html Easy front brake replacement on an 88-99 OBS Chevy 1500 ua-cam.com/video/0NarFg_g-kw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I noticed that you didn't bleed the brakes as some suggest. Would opening the brake fluid reservoir cap be sufficient? Wouldn't it cause damage to ABS (some mechanics had mentioned it) or introduce air to the system?
@Serhiy F You want to avoid introducing air into the system when you bleed the brakes. This is something I typically do every few years using a power bleeder.
@DeeLee000 It’s hard to get enough pressure with that tiny screw to break the disc free. The discs are being replaced anyway, so it doesn’t really matter.
You're supposed to remove the tension on the ebrakes before trying to remove the rotor. VERY IMPORTANT. You remove that little rubber boot, and stick a screw driver inside and can adjust the tension. Watch other videos to see how, do not just bang the rotor!
The e-brake is not engaged, there is no tension. The reason the rotor won’t come off easily is due to corrosion between the face of the hub and the rotor.
Not a bad job but not a great how to for someone who never did a break job. A few things spray holes with brake cleaner as well, when replcing brake rotors use the screw holes period!! Hammer should never be used! When replacing the pads brake cleaner should be sprayed on all caliber parts . When replacing the clips that pads sit in apply a little grease on backside. And contact points! Other than that pretty good job!! Lexus is a Toyota and they use metric bolts If you find that using SAE works better someone before you prolly used the wrong socket.
If you are replacing the rotors like we did in this video, a hammer is a fast and easy way to get them off. All of the clips were greased appropriately.
This was outstanding--very clearly explained and beautifully shot. Thank you.
Great video. just bought a 2010 RX 350 (170k), and I'm slowly getting a handle on maintenance. Did PCV, Air Filter, Cabin Filter, marker lamps, bought oW-20 synthetic and the filter, rear shocks as well as the bracket that holds the top of the rear shocks with all new bolts, new sway bar bushings, and currently awaiting the delivery of front rotors and pads, so this video is perfect timing for me...then differential fluid and transfer case oil (it's AWD), but debating about transmission fluid drain and refill, as well as coolant flush. I've heard replacing the coolant can help avoid the head gaskets corroding and leaking since the gasket is metal, so I'm all for that...thanks again for the excellent video.
Uh oh you're using the wrong oil. 2010 Rx takes 5w30.
Spray brake cleaner inside where the caliper pins go and wipe out the holes. Hit those brackets with a wire brush before installing the new hardware, transfer the OEM shims to the new pads
At 5:15 you don't have to hit the rotor with the hammer to get it out. That will damage your rotor, unless you look to replace it. There are two holes on the rotors where the studs are. Use the M8 x 1.5 (I believe. Check it) and screw it into one of the hole. That will push the rotor out!
You are correct, but we were planning on replacing the rotors anyway
M8 x 1.25
im glad that little metal piece is just a "squealer" because i was putting my tire back on and the squealers were still in the bag
Thank you for this video. Doing my brakes soon, my 2010 rx has 138k my brakes are still good though believe it or not.
hello , I didn't hear you saying to open up the brake fluid container to easily push back the piston . Or I am Wrong? the last time I change some brake pads was 3 years ago. lol.
I saw your video on removing the bed of the obs Chevy and wondering did you also have a video painting it And doing the front end
@Beyond Life Here are the front end videos. We don’t have any painting videos tho.
88-98 Chevy K1500 front end rebuild with Mevotech TTX ball joints and tie rods
ua-cam.com/video/VQ6Y5VoUQBw/v-deo.html
Easy front brake replacement on an 88-99 OBS Chevy 1500
ua-cam.com/video/0NarFg_g-kw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I noticed that you didn't bleed the brakes as some suggest. Would opening the brake fluid reservoir cap be sufficient? Wouldn't it cause damage to ABS (some mechanics had mentioned it) or introduce air to the system?
@Serhiy F You want to avoid introducing air into the system when you bleed the brakes. This is something I typically do every few years using a power bleeder.
I can’t believe you kept banging on the disc. I’m fairly certain you can just screw in a bolt into one of the holes. Good video otherwise.
@DeeLee000 It’s hard to get enough pressure with that tiny screw to break the disc free. The discs are being replaced anyway, so it doesn’t really matter.
Which z23 or z17 is that comparing to oem parts
You're supposed to remove the tension on the ebrakes before trying to remove the rotor. VERY IMPORTANT. You remove that little rubber boot, and stick a screw driver inside and can adjust the tension. Watch other videos to see how, do not just bang the rotor!
The e-brake is not engaged, there is no tension. The reason the rotor won’t come off easily is due to corrosion between the face of the hub and the rotor.
Not a bad job but not a great how to for someone who never did a break job.
A few things spray holes with brake cleaner as well, when replcing brake rotors use the screw holes period!! Hammer should never be used!
When replacing the pads brake cleaner should be sprayed on all caliber parts .
When replacing the clips that pads sit in apply a little grease on backside. And contact points!
Other than that pretty good job!!
Lexus is a Toyota and they use metric bolts
If you find that using SAE works better someone before you prolly used the wrong socket.
If you are replacing the rotors like we did in this video, a hammer is a fast and easy way to get them off. All of the clips were greased appropriately.