I tried to weld 2 pieces of intercooler piping, 2.5", 1 side is Chinese stuff, the other is Greddy kit. 75A 100Hz 50/50 bias no preheat, all cleaned acetone. Whenever I tried to feed it filler, it'll just lump up like a ball bearing and not melt, are you able to give me some tips on that? Also the cone will either be 1 side or the other, doesn't want to puddle both sides at the same time. Thanks.
What are your impressions comparing your everlast to your HTP...I was possibly considering the 221 or 313, but I see your more recent was the everlast lol I got a Dynasty 280 and I love it but I thought about selling the everlast for an HTP...if there is a significant in arc starts and features. Nice video!
Htp is the best machine I ever used. Can’t wait to start using it again. Everlast is ok on dc but ac I notice a huge difference. Htp is butter smooth. Best way I can describe it I guess is the htp is like driving a Mercedes and the everlast is like a Nissan Altima LOL they’ll both get you where you wanna go but they have a way different feel and experience
Welding Junkie it works alright. If welding any aluminum with it directly on the table it warps a lot. I have a 1/2” 24x24” piece that I put on my table for bigger stuff with lots of heat. Got mine for $65 on Craigslist
Welding Junkie depends on what the cast piece is. I usually use 5356 cause it’s stronger than 4043 unless I need a bit of flexibility in the weld, then I use 4043
Defender Fabrication it could be. But I find it good habit to heat it up to take the chill out and get rid of any moisture the ally might have in its pores.
Hope you used 4043 filler.... If not, I'd highly suggest that you grind it all out and redo it. The same for any other aluminum welds that you've done that are either cast and/or will see sustained heat of 150°F or hotter.
I know very well what it is (been building Turbo engines for the past 20+ years), and its gets hotter then 150°. For example, if you have 80° inlet temp and are running 10psi (1.68pr), if the compressor is at 72% efficiency, the discharge temps is right at about 200°F (at sea level). Again, thats at just 10psi... 15psi will (all else remaining the same will have discharge temps of 250°F. And that doesn't include any heat transfer from the hot side through the CHRA. This is the exact reason why we use intercoolers. Between heat transfer through the CHRA and depending on the other factors like compressor efficiency, actual inlet temps, boost, etc.., its not uncommon for comp housings to reach and exceed 300°F.
Chris thanks for the info.. inlets temps on this car never went above 150 before the throttle body where it was sprayed with methanol. Thanks for watching
That's all fine and dandy but tells you absolutely nothing of what the discharge temps are. Compressor discharge temps are dictated by compressor inlet temps, inlet pressure, boost pressure and compressors.adiabatic efficiency.
Chris there’s no Intercooler on this car. So temps coming from the compressor are relatively close probably 5-10 degrees difference from what the sensor sees. Again thanks for your input but it’s holding up great. I’ve welded multiple turbos like this all with 5356 and none of them has failed so far
I loved the part, where the post flow stops long after You put the torch on the stand! LOL 🤣
Post flow on aluminum dosent matter. It’s a non reactive metal
Rotary Powered Datsun. I saw the exhaust manifold in the trunk.. great channel by the way..
Curious where you get the material, looking for. 2” to 3” for my setup but stumped. Great video !
What kind of gloves its de blue one?
I tried to weld 2 pieces of intercooler piping, 2.5", 1 side is Chinese stuff, the other is Greddy kit. 75A 100Hz 50/50 bias no preheat, all cleaned acetone. Whenever I tried to feed it filler, it'll just lump up like a ball bearing and not melt, are you able to give me some tips on that? Also the cone will either be 1 side or the other, doesn't want to puddle both sides at the same time. Thanks.
Akane you have bad material that is coated in something. I suggest getting new material that’s 6061. That Chinese tube welds like junk
What are your impressions comparing your everlast to your HTP...I was possibly considering the 221 or 313, but I see your more recent was the everlast lol I got a Dynasty 280 and I love it but I thought about selling the everlast for an HTP...if there is a significant in arc starts and features. Nice video!
Htp is the best machine I ever used. Can’t wait to start using it again. Everlast is ok on dc but ac I notice a huge difference. Htp is butter smooth. Best way I can describe it I guess is the htp is like driving a Mercedes and the everlast is like a Nissan Altima LOL they’ll both get you where you wanna go but they have a way different feel and experience
@@belloautomotive1522 thanks brother! I figured you'd have hi Marks on that machine thank!
How does that stainless steel table work for you? Do you get any warpage? I’m trying to find something that will work for Tig and not cost me a grand
Welding Junkie it works alright. If welding any aluminum with it directly on the table it warps a lot. I have a 1/2” 24x24” piece that I put on my table for bigger stuff with lots of heat. Got mine for $65 on Craigslist
6SpeedFab that’s actually a great idea. What filler did you use for the Alu to cast Alu 4043?
Welding Junkie depends on what the cast piece is. I usually use 5356 cause it’s stronger than 4043 unless I need a bit of flexibility in the weld, then I use 4043
Settings?
Are you sure that the moisture you show at 1:10 is not condensation out of the propane combustion?
Defender Fabrication it could be. But I find it good habit to heat it up to take the chill out and get rid of any moisture the ally might have in its pores.
No doubt, the preheat saves arc time and argon as well. Especially on heavy/thick parts.
Thanks for the video as well.
6SpeedFab ummm, aluminium doesnt get moisture in its pores. Its becacause the ali is cold that you get condesation on it.
good job AAAAAAAA
Hope you used 4043 filler.... If not, I'd highly suggest that you grind it all out and redo it. The same for any other aluminum welds that you've done that are either cast and/or will see sustained heat of 150°F or hotter.
Chris this is on the compressor side of the turbo so it stays cool. Thanks for watching tho
I know very well what it is (been building Turbo engines for the past 20+ years), and its gets hotter then 150°. For example, if you have 80° inlet temp and are running 10psi (1.68pr), if the compressor is at 72% efficiency, the discharge temps is right at about 200°F (at sea level). Again, thats at just 10psi... 15psi will (all else remaining the same will have discharge temps of 250°F. And that doesn't include any heat transfer from the hot side through the CHRA. This is the exact reason why we use intercoolers.
Between heat transfer through the CHRA and depending on the other factors like compressor efficiency, actual inlet temps, boost, etc.., its not uncommon for comp housings to reach and exceed 300°F.
Chris thanks for the info.. inlets temps on this car never went above 150 before the throttle body where it was sprayed with methanol. Thanks for watching
That's all fine and dandy but tells you absolutely nothing of what the discharge temps are. Compressor discharge temps are dictated by compressor inlet temps, inlet pressure, boost pressure and compressors.adiabatic efficiency.
Chris there’s no Intercooler on this car. So temps coming from the compressor are relatively close probably 5-10 degrees difference from what the sensor sees. Again thanks for your input but it’s holding up great. I’ve welded multiple turbos like this all with 5356 and none of them has failed so far