I'm an ageing old fart but enjoy your vids - especially as I've just bought a 2008 NC Sport Roadster 2.0 I've taken a whole heap of abuse from pretty much everyone that knows me - deservedly so as I'm always quick to dish it out! I've had pictures of stiletto heels, hairdressers salons and rainbows texted - you name it I've had it,. But it actually just steels my reserve! I originally went hunting for an S2000 but was talked into trying one of these (I had my own stereotypical views so took some persuading!) and was hooked. My daily is a 430d BMW, but my weekend weapon is a Challenger Hellcat - so adding this was something of a chalk and cheese decision - which was actually the whole point. I LOVE the Hellcat - but its a 2-tonne missile - you have to drive it with constant respect, and take liberties at your peril. Yes - the MX feels like its powered by a rubber band - and a thin one at that - (it wouldn't see the tail lights of the 430d let alone the HC) and I dread to think what the 1.8 would be like power-wise - but it doesn't matter. I can take it by the scruff of the neck, head for the B roads with the lid down and give it full beans without fearing death every time I do so. Handling is amazing - especially as the first thing I did was fit the 30mm Eibach lowering springs to bring it down to the height it should be. Could get my bloody HEAD in the gap between wheel and arch - literally had them fitted first week of ownership. It's a GREAT car and the haters can... well - carry on hating. I guess 99% of them - like me until 4 weeks ago - haven't ever driven one. £160 a year fully comp with a £50 excess (one of the few advantages of approaching 60) - buttons to run. And it was only after i bought it I discovered even MX5 fans often look down their noses at the NC - although for me its far and away the best looking version of the lot. Especially in Copper Red like mine. What I WOULD suggest to most though - if you have the option - is to get the best you can afford . I found (and didn't have to look too hard) a one-owner, garaged from new, only used on dry warm days 21,000 miler from a guy who bought it on his retirement as an I-deserve-this second car - and I'm very pleased to say its completely rust free, top to bottom as a consequence. It's going to Krown rust-proofers in Tipton in a couple of weeks to make sure it stays that way, as some of the uploads you have done are a bit scary. I don't want it dissolving before my eyes.... So - if your budget will stretch to it (I'm aware, of course, not everyone is so lucky) - there's no shortage of cars like the one I found; probably cheaper in the long-run too if your rust experiences are anything to go by!! Keep the vids coming - really enjoy them :) Oh - one last thing - where the hell do I find the Cobalt back box you mention in another vid of yours?! Can't seem to find one anywhere...
Great video and a job well done. Mine's the steel lid, I've done a temporary job, on mine it was just a few tiny spots, so I sanded back just where the bubble was and hammerited it, before manually touching in the top coat. Will stop it rusting until I have the time to do it in the way that you have.
I have been watching your videos a lot lately as I am at home a lot and not using my MX5 much at the moment it gives me my MX5 fix. I admire your enthusiasm and commitment to your tasks you explain everything really well. If I lived near you I could drop off my winning blue NC for you to do inside my boot lid.
You have done a much better job than my bodge attempts. I have had to do mine for a third time, third year in a row as unfortunately it keeps coming back, the first time I spent more time perfecting it to a more professional standard. This third time my spray painting was not so great as I'm losing the will to live with it. Will probably have to get it sorted professionally at some point hope yours stays rust clear.
Watched this video at least 10 times so far and halfway through renovating the same boot lid rust on my Stormy Blue PRHT NC (albeit slight worse rust!). Invaluable help to me so far and I’ve just finished the high build sanding. Next up, colour and lacquer. Thanks for posting this.
I really appreciate your videos showing the details, I've had my PRHT NC for a couple of months now and I've noticed little rust specs on the spot welds. I'm going to take the number plate lights out and make sure everything is OK, it's obvious that any road salt and grime gets thrown up here. I also appreciate a better look at the plastic blanking plate at 3:32, I'm looking into adding a plug to this for solar trickle charging when parked nose-first in the garage and/or a rear camera. I can't really think of anywhere better to put a trickle charge plug and as the car has reverse sensors there should already be a battery feed I can tie into.
if you fit LED bulbs to the boot and front floor pan you will find it great on dark nights, also if you take one of the dash lights out you can check the fitment type bayonet twist screw etc then you can fit coloured LEDs to the colour of your choice available from amazon and ali express
When I did mine, I unclipped the lights cable from the underside of the boot and pulled it through, leaving it attached to the hinge and left it hanging in the boot space, then removed the boot lid. I also popped out the rubbers leaving it devoid of all bits and pieces, This is because when painting, I wanted to add a bit more colour the to thinner painted areas and the clear coat it all. Part of the reason NC's have this issue is because Mazda didn't clear coat the underside (certainly not on the earlier years models), and which includes the exposed area with the number plate lights. The only thing I had to mask off was the MAZDA part sticker.
An excellent and clear video however a whole week with the car off the road? I have found water in the boot so am about to go through the list of problem areas. My Mk2 has a steel boot lid and I know there is rust in the usual place around the edge. The boot seal is in excellent condition and the three darinage holes have been cleared out with the trumbone brush.
It came out nice. I don't know if you did this off camera, but you need to to scuff up all areas where paint touches, no matter if its primer, basecoat or clearcoat or else it won't adhere properly in the long run.
Very nice work and video. Curious how often you start it up, drive it, and/or trickle charge. What with the pandemic, especially, and now also winter, my extra car (also an NC) doesn't see the road so often. It is very enjoyable when I do have reason to drive it and I'm glad to have it, but in truth it doesn't get much use at present.
Great video, need to do mine but I can’t be bothered, if you need to do another for the purpose of video content more than happy for you to use mine 🤣👍
Great set of videos - helpful for a fellow MX5 owner - mine's almost exactly the same. One question - did I miss the video where you fitted the spotlights or did the car come fitted with them? Plus do you know where I can get replacement seats - mine are horrible uncomfortable fabric, slightly worn in places - but I'd really like some leather seats. Keep up the good work. PS and if your windscreen doesn't leak yet - it soon will - A video on stopping the leak onto the passenger floor would be useful.
Looks really nice. Well done! My 2006 GT has similar paint cracking, bubbling in that spot. I’m not bothered enough by it yet to do what you did here... yet :-)
@Car Thought Is it just an aesthetic fix or will it get worse if untouched ? I have a little bubble right under the MX5 Logo but it doesn't seem to grow or anything. I know it is not rust as the trunk lid is made from aluminium but do you think it needs to be fixed ?
Hello, big Fan of your Mark 3 MX5 Series. You inspired me to buy one aswell, so i got a 2014 with 45.000 miles yesterday. I love this car so much, but I noticed two things that need repair: The Volume button on the radio is missing, i have to adjust the volume with my fingernails or the steering wheel function. The other one is the interior light. It does not seem to work no matter on what mode (On, Off, Doors) I put it. Do you know a good site where I can get spare parts to fix this? Cheers from Germany David
I went to look at an NC yesterday. Was there 25 seconds, put fingers through backs of both sills and left. Frustrating as i directly asked if there was any rust...
I do own a 2007. Here is a question if you couldhelp me out. I need to buy a torque wrench for the car. What would be the torque range to buy as to cover most of the car?
Hi, thanks for the comment, totally depends on what you’re going to do on the car in all honesty. If you’re at the stage of purchasing a torque wrench you probably have a pretty good idea of the jobs you’re going to do? So for wheels, control arms and crash structures I’d recommend a half inch. If you’re interior mods it’s probably more 3/8 inch. Personally id only torque safety critical bolts like seatbelts and seats in the interior, but there will be an overlap in ranges. So a 3/8 will overlap a 1/2 inch in the range but the 3/8 will be more accurate lower down if that makes sense?
@@CarThought Hi. Thanks for your response. Yes it makes sense. Well, I am not so keen in touching any of the main engine parts. As you said, interior parts mostly such as seats etc, but maybe also suspension parts like end-links for the sway bars, suspension mounts, struts, perhaps the alternator, and that's it. In other words, whatever someone can do with pretty basic equipment in a home garage. I was thinking of a wrench 1/2" w/ 40-200Nm range, but then it seems like a 3/8 would be more versatile. BTW, this is a really great channel. Exactly what was missing for the NCs. Keep up that great work.
Thanks for the support mate. Sounds like either would be good for you. Personally I prefer a 1/2 inch as it’s easier to torque wheels down with it (longer lever). This is the one I have: amzn.to/3qHNI05 👍
To anybody who’s reading this, I pray that whatever is hurting you or whatever you are constantly stressing about gets better. May the dark thoughts, the overthinking, and the doubt exit your mind right now. May clarity replace confusion. May peace and calmness fill your life.
I'm an ageing old fart but enjoy your vids - especially as I've just bought a 2008 NC Sport Roadster 2.0 I've taken a whole heap of abuse from pretty much everyone that knows me - deservedly so as I'm always quick to dish it out! I've had pictures of stiletto heels, hairdressers salons and rainbows texted - you name it I've had it,. But it actually just steels my reserve! I originally went hunting for an S2000 but was talked into trying one of these (I had my own stereotypical views so took some persuading!) and was hooked. My daily is a 430d BMW, but my weekend weapon is a Challenger Hellcat - so adding this was something of a chalk and cheese decision - which was actually the whole point. I LOVE the Hellcat - but its a 2-tonne missile - you have to drive it with constant respect, and take liberties at your peril. Yes - the MX feels like its powered by a rubber band - and a thin one at that - (it wouldn't see the tail lights of the 430d let alone the HC) and I dread to think what the 1.8 would be like power-wise - but it doesn't matter. I can take it by the scruff of the neck, head for the B roads with the lid down and give it full beans without fearing death every time I do so. Handling is amazing - especially as the first thing I did was fit the 30mm Eibach lowering springs to bring it down to the height it should be. Could get my bloody HEAD in the gap between wheel and arch - literally had them fitted first week of ownership. It's a GREAT car and the haters can... well - carry on hating. I guess 99% of them - like me until 4 weeks ago - haven't ever driven one. £160 a year fully comp with a £50 excess (one of the few advantages of approaching 60) - buttons to run. And it was only after i bought it I discovered even MX5 fans often look down their noses at the NC - although for me its far and away the best looking version of the lot. Especially in Copper Red like mine. What I WOULD suggest to most though - if you have the option - is to get the best you can afford . I found (and didn't have to look too hard) a one-owner, garaged from new, only used on dry warm days 21,000 miler from a guy who bought it on his retirement as an I-deserve-this second car - and I'm very pleased to say its completely rust free, top to bottom as a consequence. It's going to Krown rust-proofers in Tipton in a couple of weeks to make sure it stays that way, as some of the uploads you have done are a bit scary. I don't want it dissolving before my eyes.... So - if your budget will stretch to it (I'm aware, of course, not everyone is so lucky) - there's no shortage of cars like the one I found; probably cheaper in the long-run too if your rust experiences are anything to go by!! Keep the vids coming - really enjoy them :) Oh - one last thing - where the hell do I find the Cobalt back box you mention in another vid of yours?! Can't seem to find one anywhere...
Nicely done! Thanks for filming it from every angle!
Love how you're a perfectionist when it comes to restoration!
Subscribed. I bought a 2010 NC PRHT with Standard trans last week. Find your videos very helpful, keep em coming!
That's a perfect job, i'm impressed !
Great video and a job well done. Mine's the steel lid, I've done a temporary job, on mine it was just a few tiny spots, so I sanded back just where the bubble was and hammerited it, before manually touching in the top coat. Will stop it rusting until I have the time to do it in the way that you have.
Doing mine this coming weekend and watched this a few times. Miss your MX5 NC videos 👍
Good luck! Great weekend activity 😃
Nice job ... got the same problem .. will give it a go when the weather gets a bit better ...probably !
I have been watching your videos a lot lately as I am at home a lot and not using my MX5 much at the moment it gives me my MX5 fix. I admire your enthusiasm and commitment to your tasks you explain everything really well. If I lived near you I could drop off my winning blue NC for you to do inside my boot lid.
Thanks man, very nice message and I appreciate all the support 💪☕️
You have done a much better job than my bodge attempts. I have had to do mine for a third time, third year in a row as unfortunately it keeps coming back, the first time I spent more time perfecting it to a more professional standard. This third time my spray painting was not so great as I'm losing the will to live with it. Will probably have to get it sorted professionally at some point hope yours stays rust clear.
nice job there buddy and well done
Watched this video at least 10 times so far and halfway through renovating the same boot lid rust on my Stormy Blue PRHT NC (albeit slight worse rust!). Invaluable help to me so far and I’ve just finished the high build sanding. Next up, colour and lacquer. Thanks for posting this.
Haha no worries mate, hope it works out for you! All the work is in the prep as with most things 👌
I really appreciate your videos showing the details, I've had my PRHT NC for a couple of months now and I've noticed little rust specs on the spot welds. I'm going to take the number plate lights out and make sure everything is OK, it's obvious that any road salt and grime gets thrown up here.
I also appreciate a better look at the plastic blanking plate at 3:32, I'm looking into adding a plug to this for solar trickle charging when parked nose-first in the garage and/or a rear camera. I can't really think of anywhere better to put a trickle charge plug and as the car has reverse sensors there should already be a battery feed I can tie into.
did exactly the same job on mine, great job mate
Well done mate, good job.
Great stuff, well done
Great tip!
if you fit LED bulbs to the boot and front floor pan you will find it great on dark nights, also if you take one of the dash lights out you can check the fitment type bayonet twist screw etc then you can fit coloured LEDs to the colour of your choice available from amazon and ali express
well done mate that was near perfect just don't mask too hard for primer lovely finish 👍
When I did mine, I unclipped the lights cable from the underside of the boot and pulled it through, leaving it attached to the hinge and left it hanging in the boot space, then removed the boot lid. I also popped out the rubbers leaving it devoid of all bits and pieces, This is because when painting, I wanted to add a bit more colour the to thinner painted areas and the clear coat it all. Part of the reason NC's have this issue is because Mazda didn't clear coat the underside (certainly not on the earlier years models), and which includes the exposed area with the number plate lights. The only thing I had to mask off was the MAZDA part sticker.
What was good ,was you actually said how long it took ,something people miss out
An excellent and clear video however a whole week with the car off the road? I have found water in the boot so am about to go through the list of problem areas. My Mk2 has a steel boot lid and I know there is rust in the usual place around the edge. The boot seal is in excellent condition and the three darinage holes have been cleared out with the trumbone brush.
Yep mines the same but will sort it out in summer.
It came out nice. I don't know if you did this off camera, but you need to to scuff up all areas where paint touches, no matter if its primer, basecoat or clearcoat or else it won't adhere properly in the long run.
Perfect 👌🏻
Very nice work and video.
Curious how often you start it up, drive it, and/or trickle charge.
What with the pandemic, especially, and now also winter, my extra car (also an NC) doesn't see the road so often.
It is very enjoyable when I do have reason to drive it and I'm glad to have it, but in truth it doesn't get much use at present.
Great video, need to do mine but I can’t be bothered, if you need to do another for the purpose of video content more than happy for you to use mine 🤣👍
No problem, I’ll need your keys for about a week.. can’t promise you’ll have any rear tyres left with that supercharger 🤷♂️😬
Great set of videos - helpful for a fellow MX5 owner - mine's almost exactly the same. One question - did I miss the video where you fitted the spotlights or did the car come fitted with them? Plus do you know where I can get replacement seats - mine are horrible uncomfortable fabric, slightly worn in places - but I'd really like some leather seats. Keep up the good work. PS and if your windscreen doesn't leak yet - it soon will - A video on stopping the leak onto the passenger floor would be useful.
Yeah, I need to mine too. Crystal white Pearl though so might be a bugger to blend in!
Pearl is notoriously difficult. At least most of the time you won't be able to see it!
No Problem it,s NC Cabrio 2014 Aluminium !
Looks really nice. Well done! My 2006 GT has similar paint cracking, bubbling in that spot. I’m not bothered enough by it yet to do what you did here... yet :-)
Haha, I don’t blame you! This took about 7 days in total. Had to drink lots of tea ☕️
@Car Thought Is it just an aesthetic fix or will it get worse if untouched ? I have a little bubble right under the MX5 Logo but it doesn't seem to grow or anything. I know it is not rust as the trunk lid is made from aluminium but do you think it needs to be fixed ?
Lovely work!
I'm worried about corrosion on mine now 😅 are there any particular places to check for rust?
How to remove the cable tube attached to the boot lid espcially the top one ,thanks
well done anyway!
Took my number plate lights off and checked mine earlier, mine was very crusty, rusting quite badly around the holes
Thanks for the great video - I can't find the link to your video of the full undersealing?? Do you have it listed? Cheers!
ua-cam.com/video/0S6yHMxKNqU/v-deo.html
hello, does anyone know where to find the blind plate between the license plate lights?
Hello,
big Fan of your Mark 3 MX5 Series. You inspired me to buy one aswell, so i got a 2014 with 45.000 miles yesterday. I love this car so much, but I noticed two things that need repair: The Volume button on the radio is missing, i have to adjust the volume with my fingernails or the steering wheel function. The other one is the interior light. It does not seem to work no matter on what mode (On, Off, Doors) I put it. Do you know a good site where I can get spare parts to fix this?
Cheers from Germany
David
Nice job. Mine has rust in exactly the same area. I’m worried I would botch it if I tried
I feel exactly the same about mine
AFAIK it is made from aluminium so it is not rust
just thinking if i can do it without removing the boot lid while just cover the rear of the car and do the sanding and painting. any advise?
Very possible, just will be more difficult for sanding as the boot lid wobbles on the hinges.
I think you have convinced me to pay someone else to do it. Doh!
£1000 and I’ll do it with a receipt 👌
@@CarThought very tempted if you bring the tea and biscuits 😉
I went to look at an NC yesterday. Was there 25 seconds, put fingers through backs of both sills and left. Frustrating as i directly asked if there was any rust...
People think I’m mad when I say check for rust by poking the sills.. but I think they’re mad for buying a car without checking for it! 🤷♂️
I do own a 2007. Here is a question if you couldhelp me out. I need to buy a torque wrench for the car. What would be the torque range to buy as to cover most of the car?
Hi, thanks for the comment, totally depends on what you’re going to do on the car in all honesty. If you’re at the stage of purchasing a torque wrench you probably have a pretty good idea of the jobs you’re going to do?
So for wheels, control arms and crash structures I’d recommend a half inch. If you’re interior mods it’s probably more 3/8 inch. Personally id only torque safety critical bolts like seatbelts and seats in the interior, but there will be an overlap in ranges. So a 3/8 will overlap a 1/2 inch in the range but the 3/8 will be more accurate lower down if that makes sense?
@@CarThought Hi. Thanks for your response. Yes it makes sense. Well, I am not so keen in touching any of the main engine parts. As you said, interior parts mostly such as seats etc, but maybe also suspension parts like end-links for the sway bars, suspension mounts, struts, perhaps the alternator, and that's it. In other words, whatever someone can do with pretty basic equipment in a home garage. I was thinking of a wrench 1/2" w/ 40-200Nm range, but then it seems like a 3/8 would be more versatile.
BTW, this is a really great channel. Exactly what was missing for the NCs. Keep up that great work.
Thanks for the support mate. Sounds like either would be good for you. Personally I prefer a 1/2 inch as it’s easier to torque wheels down with it (longer lever). This is the one I have:
amzn.to/3qHNI05 👍
I notice you used the key to open your boot. Does the key fob boot opener button not work on your car? Mine neither!
No, batteries flat. Just haven’t got around to changing it yet!
@@CarThought My remote works on the doors, just doesn't open the boot!
Great result, all the preparation paid off👍
To anybody who’s reading this, I pray that whatever is hurting you or whatever you are constantly stressing about gets better. May the dark thoughts, the overthinking, and the doubt exit your mind right now. May clarity replace confusion. May peace and calmness fill your life.
I get stressed about irrelevant comments on my UA-cam videos.
Wish u lived by me i.love you . Mx5 is the way .
Is this something you think you could tackle yourself?
I did. And broke the reg plate lights :D
😂 I can see how that would be done!
I'm sure I'll create more of a job than it is off I try 🤦♂️
These things are rust buckets, shame