Excellent build, Troy. Your videos add a wonderful level of detail, insight, and understanding to all these builds. This one is on my list. I just maidened the Big Bobber today and it went very well... certainly in part because of your videos.
@@TroyMcMillan well, I did have the cr-10 V3 or, the banggood said I won't get it for another two weeks. So, I'm going to cancel the order and get the Sapphire Pro. I like the modifications that a few other UA-camrs like design prototype has listed. Seems like a really solid machine to start off my 3D printing Journey.
@@adamflight1 Is this Sapphire Pro a good all around printer if you want to get into printing these planes? Or you need specific ones for different elements.
Stop doing this. You make my printer run 24/7. I just can't help it. Printed Eclipson Model A, Model C, just printing Model R. UAV Black wing is on the list and the Eagle looks pretty tempting too... I'm well into my 2nd roll of LW-PLA and keep motors, props, servos, receivers, carbon coming in a steady flow. Thanks for getting me addicted... :-)
I have finally removed all the gremlins out of my Sapphire Pro. I am printing a Stearman bi-plane from Lab3dprint, and it looks good. I also like the printer.
@@TroyMcMillan well there's lots of different ones and the reason I like them is because you don't need lots of screws and carbon fibre spars and having to buy the files and light weight pla which makes it really afordable. I just want to see what you would like and recommend for my first build as I'm only a teenager and do not have the most amount of money. Cheers
@@everythingrc5652 I really like that idea! I completely agree that I don't like having to buy all the extra carbon fiber spars, etc. I will look into it!
Hello Troy, thank you so much for your awesome work, I can see how much effort you put in. I was desperate trying to print the micro sportcam from Aeroventures. G-Codes were crap for my anycubic mega and the stls required a lot of planing and seemed to be to heavy after all. I'm trying again now after you mentioned some of the problems I have. Do you have tried to print the micro sportcam? I'm cursing at the design right now :D greetings from germany - keep it up!
Hi Troy, thanks for all the great videos. I got a Sapphire pro as you suggest, and its causing problems- I'm building the BigBobber. The problems are from the Cura profiles, they don't handle the z axis correctly. Could you please publish the Cura profiles in full that you used for the BigBobber? if only as a departure point. I've been printing for a week, and of about a dozen items, only 2 are useable, 2 more could be reworked. Thanks!
Update - 3DAeroventures has decided to make all their awesome models available for free, so if you've been on the fence about this plane, give it a try!
It can definitely be done. The only things too look out for is setting up the motor mount and servo mounts. Also setting up the CG but in Cura you can scale up the parts and print them out.
When designing a plane, you design what the infill looks like. So, shouldn't you set infill to 0%? You set the outer wall thickness and create the internal former and stringers etc.
For this airplane design, 3DAeroventure designed it to have actual infill between the layers. All other planes I have built have the style of infill you are talking about!
Why is the cg so far forward? Why is it shaped so that the cockpit is so far forward? Wouldn't it be better to have the wing start at the nose, so the plane cg is aligned with the wing cg?
What I meant by this was that, on one of your videos, you sent the viewer me to a web site where you could download a test wing for print quality. (PLANEPRINT.COM) I downloaded this and with the settings P3 from your video it turned out great. There was 4 different settings in CURA, P1 Full body, P2 hallow body, P3 surface and P4 Flex. I can only use the P3 to get a 0.8mm wing skin to print solid or 100% infill. If I use P1 or P2, the same 0.8mm Wing skin I get two skins 0.3mm thick that are in total 0.8 mm apart with no infill. Why? Even if I set infill to 100% I get the same results (when using P1 P2). Do you print the bodies of your airplanes with P1 and P2? Do you have to adjust the the infill settings? Does the fuselage of the airplanes you print have infill in them between two outer skins? I am not sure but does this have anything to do with Special Modes "SURFACE COMAND" normal, surface or both? SORRY if this is too complicated!
I had V1 until an unfortunate mishap sent it to RC heaven. I was told last year from Aeroventure that they were holding off selling the model because of a legal matter. Are they now selling the kit?
Yes, it’s been redesigned and improved. It’s back up on the website. If you already purchased V1 you get the reworked V2 version at no extra charge. Email me if you didn’t receive the download email sent out a few months ago.
do you even know is like next 10 -15 years is use turbo UAV or fast prop competetion purpose for fun drive actualy based on romulan duck corvette which is quite larger as star trek enterprize anyway a scfi flight conditions show signs off serious model build in Slovenia there is company on grass who literally push this stuff they can build one for test purpose 100% success and new model for them sometimes this videos are extremly usefull in research and inovation in aviation May be I would slight expand fornt wings and corner it under angle so it speeds even better, and lets rotational cocpit used as escape pod all elements used and shown in prototype if shown at NASA is definetly a winner and with rotational sky high ahead as fast turbo ultra light prop totaly star trek and glider tech and aviation fan, first imression is like again watching cap Kirk in new edition Spook i gonna do it this time better in some crazy race for prize before mission movie
at 11:54, you have described Positive aoa, at the motor mount.!!!! and, that just does NOT make sense, on a model that is not a slow-flyer.!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting remark, did you have a close look at the files or is your opinion based on the video? Do you generally think that box wing/rhomboid wing design is less efficient? Some argue that joining the ends of wings may increase stiffness and lead to a reduction in structural weight. I agree with you that wing joiners need to be optimised aerodynamically to make sense - not every winglet design automatically results in vortex/drag reduction... What made me wonder about the design was the location of the CG. As it is located within the root of the for wing, the wing load of the aft wing is probably much lower. Lift created by the big aft wing is not needed and adds primarily drag. One solution would be to reduce the thickness or cordlength of the aft wing. Just my stupid 2 cents...
it appears that all parts of the wing have a Symmetrical profile. however, bc this concept is a disaster, from the ground up, it's not worth explaining this issue.
@@pascalfust1035 regarding Drag: it is a simple fact that, if/when a tubular/channel structure moves through air, air CANNOT go THROUGH it.!!!! because of the vortices/turbulence that occur, AT THE LEADING EDGE.!!! consequently, a lot of Drag, is made at the leading edge. and, a Lot of (trailing) Drag is made BEHIND the structure. regarding profiles: a stoopid practice has been, by some, carried-over from the days of engine power. it is the stoopid use of a combination of positive aoa, and a Symmetrical wing profile. the making of lift in this way, comes with a Large Drag Penalty. consequently, in such a design, a significant amount of the onboard Energy is LOST, to Excessive (avoidable) Drag.!!!! note that an air intake for an ENGINE, does not have the same issues. bc there is DRAW; from an engine. cheers googletranslate
Looks very very stable
Print 3D is Life!!!
Yesss I agree :)
Another Great Video with Print and Build Tips. Greatly Appreciated.
Great build terrific looking plane thanks Richard
Thank you, Richard!
Excellent build, Troy. Your videos add a wonderful level of detail, insight, and understanding to all these builds. This one is on my list. I just maidened the Big Bobber today and it went very well... certainly in part because of your videos.
Hey, David! Thank you so much, and I'm so glad your Big Bobber maiden was successful, great job!
Amazing design, love the heated brass inserts...It's all about the design...🤔😳😀🇬🇧
I agree!!
You're killin' me Troy...I'm still printing the Model R, and have yet to maiden my Eagle.
haha, sorry! There's too many cool planes out there. Good luck on your maiden!
Solid and unique plane. I'm thinking once I am done with the shark, I am going to try this bad bod out. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
Super cool 👍
Great catch on takeoff! Nice plane. Thanks for the cool video.
Wow very Nice 🥰
Amazing man had notifications on to let me know when this was coming out
Wooo!! Thank you, I appreciate it!
very nice !!!!
Alright Troy, you are definitely up in the game. Banggood told me I have to wait another 2 weeks to get my printer. This is so dang cool!
Thank you! What printer did you end you getting?
@@TroyMcMillan well, I did have the cr-10 V3 or, the banggood said I won't get it for another two weeks. So, I'm going to cancel the order and get the Sapphire Pro. I like the modifications that a few other UA-camrs like design prototype has listed. Seems like a really solid machine to start off my 3D printing Journey.
@@adamflight1 Is this Sapphire Pro a good all around printer if you want to get into printing these planes? Or you need specific ones for different elements.
Awesome I’ve been waiting for this one
Excellent instructions, sophisticated, unique design. BTW it's 'elevons' not 'elevrons'.
That first bank right had me cringe 😬 for a second. Really nice looking model. I’m all the in NW part of town. That field is out by Lake Mead?
I was holding my breath on takeoff for sure haha. Yes, it's in Lake Mead national park, near the marina.
Very impressive
Amazing job ♥️♥️
Stop doing this. You make my printer run 24/7. I just can't help it. Printed Eclipson Model A, Model C, just printing Model R. UAV Black wing is on the list and the Eagle looks pretty tempting too...
I'm well into my 2nd roll of LW-PLA and keep motors, props, servos, receivers, carbon coming in a steady flow. Thanks for getting me addicted... :-)
There are too many cool planes out there, that's part of the problem haha.
great one ;)
Oh wow u switched from artillery sidewinder as ur best printer for rc planes.?
Yeah, absolutely. I would definitely say the Sidewinder is 2nd though.
@@TroyMcMillan lol ok.well I stick to my sidewinder still prints well.
@@fyzobaba haha that works. It really is a great printer
I have finally removed all the gremlins out of my Sapphire Pro. I am printing a Stearman bi-plane from Lab3dprint, and it looks good. I also like the printer.
That is a cool plane. So glad your Sapphire pro is working out for you too :)
Cool aircraft. Did you print the entire model on the Sapphire Pro? Or did you have all your printers working on it?
Only the Sapphire Pro, the quality and quietness are it for me. Cant say enough good things about that printer.
What a looker! We need a full flight video :o) Thanks for sharing. My Model A makes some progress. Hope to get airborne soon ;o)
Coming soooon :)
Just found you in Instagram. You have a great channel! Thank you for uploading.
Hey! Thank you so much, I really appreciate that!
Troy, I would love to see you build the B-17 Flying Fortress from 3DAeroVentures
Nice build!
Great build! I did not recall seeing what type of speed controller you used. Was it 45 amp? Do you know how many amps you were pulling on 4S power?
Progressive application of throttle on takeoff..!!!!!!..Or it's massive torque roll left....😳😳😳😳😳🤔🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Yep, that was the problem, I took off too fast! On the next flight, will be using way less power for take off.
Can you try out some of the thingy verse designs because they are free and there are some really good ones.
Yeah, I would be down for that. What do you have in mind?
@@TroyMcMillan well there's lots of different ones and the reason I like them is because you don't need lots of screws and carbon fibre spars and having to buy the files and light weight pla which makes it really afordable. I just want to see what you would like and recommend for my first build as I'm only a teenager and do not have the most amount of money. Cheers
@@everythingrc5652 I really like that idea! I completely agree that I don't like having to buy all the extra carbon fiber spars, etc. I will look into it!
@@TroyMcMillan thank you
Will you make a video to explain how you do to design your plane with CAO ?
I would really like to see the eclipson asw28. Not yet released. Please look into it!
I will!
My favorite 3d-printed RC! Does it also fly well with a slow setup, say 1000kv motor? Do you know the stall speed?
It worked really well with this set up, so I would just stick with everything I used if I were to build it again. I don't know the stall speed!
Another tight build Troy! Very Nice! Can you give me a good idea of what to buy for making the decals?
Thank you! I just have a local shop print them out for me.
Excellent ya do you have any idea of a vtol drone or rc similar
I don't really use drones!
Hello Troy, thank you so much for your awesome work, I can see how much effort you put in.
I was desperate trying to print the micro sportcam from Aeroventures. G-Codes were crap for my anycubic mega and the stls required a lot of planing and seemed to be to heavy after all. I'm trying again now after you mentioned some of the problems I have. Do you have tried to print the micro sportcam? I'm cursing at the design right now :D greetings from germany - keep it up!
Hi Troy, thanks for all the great videos. I got a Sapphire pro as you suggest, and its causing problems- I'm building the BigBobber. The problems are from the Cura profiles, they don't handle the z axis correctly. Could you please publish the Cura profiles in full that you used for the BigBobber? if only as a departure point. I've been printing for a week, and of about a dozen items, only 2 are useable, 2 more could be reworked.
Thanks!
I am not sure what you mean about the Z axis is not correct?
Can you do a video on calibrating the settings for LW-PLA?
I will consider doing that!
Preferably on the Sidewinder X-1 😆
Hi, do you recommend to use the sapphire Core XY printer to make the ASK14 glider that you done before?
Any printer with a 200mm^3 build plate will be able to print it! Just comes down to the settings :)
Please....please install your prop last....after the plane is set up and bound...
One day my friend you will learn this lesson, the hard way.
I really enjoy your build videos. Thanks for sharing them. I have one issue, I can't get the link to function into 3DAeroventures.
Update - 3DAeroventures has decided to make all their awesome models available for free, so if you've been on the fence about this plane, give it a try!
disregard the structural integrity issue, is it possible to scale-up a 3d print model to print a larger version? Thanks.
It can definitely be done. The only things too look out for is setting up the motor mount and servo mounts. Also setting up the CG but in Cura you can scale up the parts and print them out.
When designing a plane, you design what the infill looks like. So, shouldn't you set infill to 0%? You set the outer wall thickness and create the internal former and stringers etc.
For this airplane design, 3DAeroventure designed it to have actual infill between the layers. All other planes I have built have the style of infill you are talking about!
do you have a list of what you need? Motor / controller / servos rods and screws? Or do you sell a set?
Yeah, everything I used to make this plane is in the description. 3DAeroventures also lists everything you would need on their PDF file
Hi Troy, hope you are well, I'm printing the Infinity Wing and having a problem with the wing TIP support in cura, can you guide me on how to Please
How is this pla with summer heat, most pla deforms in temp over 100
You just have to fly early in the morning, or in the evening. I haven't had any real problems with it doing it that way
Thanks for another cool episode.
Please consider using a better microphone, e.g. wired.
It’s awesome but not very technical with 3d printer, hope they can sell the already printed and kits to assemble that would be great ❤
So where did you get those threaded inserts?
I got those from amazon, I will be linking it in the description in the next day or so!
Why is the cg so far forward? Why is it shaped so that the cockpit is so far forward? Wouldn't it be better to have the wing start at the nose, so the plane cg is aligned with the wing cg?
👏👏👏
@Troy McMillan, Unfortunately, his site is no longer online and we can not get his models.... 😢
Lake Mead? Do you live in BC?
Where do you get your stickers done?
I draw them myself on Gravity Designer, and have them printed at a local decal company
how do you make all the decals on your planes?
Gravity Designer :)
@@TroyMcMillan and cut it with a plotter yourself?
Would maybe make a nice little video :)
hi. where is the cg. thanks
I show it in the video, 45mm under the trailing edge of the wing! 😊
@@TroyMcMillan thanks, nice job！
What I meant by this was that, on one of your videos, you sent the viewer me to a web site where you could download a test wing for print quality. (PLANEPRINT.COM) I downloaded this and with the settings P3 from your video it turned out great. There was 4 different settings in CURA, P1 Full body, P2 hallow body, P3 surface and P4 Flex. I can only use the P3 to get a 0.8mm wing skin to print solid or 100% infill. If I use P1 or P2, the same 0.8mm Wing skin I get two skins 0.3mm thick that are in total 0.8 mm apart with no infill. Why? Even if I set infill to 100% I get the same results (when using P1 P2). Do you print the bodies of your airplanes with P1 and P2? Do you have to adjust the the infill settings? Does the fuselage of the airplanes you print have infill in them between two outer skins? I am not sure but does this have anything to do with Special Modes "SURFACE COMAND" normal, surface or both? SORRY if this is too complicated!
yes, for this airplane you can't use p3 from planeprints settings. you need to change it to normal mode in the special modes tab.
I had V1 until an unfortunate mishap sent it to RC heaven.
I was told last year from Aeroventure that they were holding off selling the model because of a legal matter.
Are they now selling the kit?
Yes, it’s been redesigned and improved. It’s back up on the website. If you already purchased V1 you get the reworked V2 version at no extra charge. Email me if you didn’t receive the download email sent out a few months ago.
@@3DAeroventures Xlnt!
I'll be hitting you up for another one. I still have the power system from my ill fated one.
That looked a scary take off. Could have been such a disaster.
😅 It was a handful on takeoff, but it actually flies really well.
i love watching your videos
but it is better to wear safety glasses
and I speak from experience glue in your eyes is very painful
do you even know is like next 10 -15 years is use turbo UAV or fast prop competetion purpose for fun drive actualy based on romulan duck corvette which is quite larger as star trek enterprize anyway a scfi flight conditions show signs off serious model build in Slovenia there is company on grass who literally push this stuff they can build one for test purpose 100% success and new model for them sometimes this videos are extremly usefull in research and inovation in aviation May be I would slight expand fornt wings and corner it under angle so it speeds even better, and lets rotational cocpit used as escape pod all elements used and shown in prototype if shown at NASA is definetly a winner and with rotational sky high ahead as fast turbo ultra light prop totaly star trek and glider tech and aviation fan, first imression is like again watching cap Kirk in new edition Spook i gonna do it this time better in some crazy race for prize before mission movie
at 17:07, THAT IS NOT A CONTROL HORN.!!!
at 7:50, that is NOT a control horn.!!!!!!!!
at 21:41, so, should we assume that a 4s batt is Heavier than a 3s one.? that would be the Obvious INFERENCE, in what you have said.
at 11:54, you have described Positive aoa, at the motor mount.!!!! and, that just does NOT make sense, on a model that is not a slow-flyer.!!!!!!!!!!!!!
at 11:54, WHO SEZ !!!!! does anyone have PROOF that the use of a wonky thrust angle is Recommended, with ELECTRIC power.!!! googletranslate
What makes you so frustrated and angry?? Is it just this channel that has you so upset... or do you troll other channels as well. Go away!
fyi, in the context of efficiency, this design is a disaster. this is so bc, the 'u-shaped' channel at each wingtip MAKES a LOT of Drag.!!!!!!
Interesting remark, did you have a close look at the files or is your opinion based on the video? Do you generally think that box wing/rhomboid wing design is less efficient?
Some argue that joining the ends of wings may increase stiffness and lead to a reduction in structural weight.
I agree with you that wing joiners need to be optimised aerodynamically to make sense - not every winglet design automatically results in vortex/drag reduction...
What made me wonder about the design was the location of the CG. As it is located within the root of the for wing, the wing load of the aft wing is probably much lower. Lift created by the big aft wing is not needed and adds primarily drag. One solution would be to reduce the thickness or cordlength of the aft wing. Just my stupid 2 cents...
@@pascalfust1035 my observation is based on knowledge, and what i SEE. cheers
it appears that all parts of the wing have a Symmetrical profile. however, bc this concept is a disaster, from the ground up, it's not worth explaining this issue.
I'd be interested in the explanation :-)
@@pascalfust1035 regarding Drag: it is a simple fact that, if/when a tubular/channel structure moves through air, air CANNOT go THROUGH it.!!!! because of the vortices/turbulence that occur, AT THE LEADING EDGE.!!!
consequently, a lot of Drag, is made at the leading edge. and, a Lot of (trailing) Drag is made BEHIND the structure.
regarding profiles: a stoopid practice has been, by some, carried-over from the days of engine power. it is the stoopid use of a combination of positive aoa, and a Symmetrical wing profile.
the making of lift in this way, comes with a Large Drag Penalty.
consequently, in such a design, a significant amount of the onboard Energy is LOST, to Excessive (avoidable) Drag.!!!!
note that an air intake for an ENGINE, does not have the same issues. bc there is DRAW; from an engine. cheers googletranslate
at :10, 'this thing looks so cool...' gaaawd really??? imo, cool would include GOOD Design. and, THAT is MISSING, here. googletranslate