I am doing these on a 66 coupe and in my case a four ton portable hydraulic jack was key. it not only helped push it into place but when welding I could push and bend areas to get them flat - pushing from ground and wedged in against the drums. It was a tight fit and you should expect it will require some trimming. I wish I would have put them in before the floorboards but I did not know enough. I did get a brass hammer because of this video and it was also critical. Thanks for providing video of how it fits! Seeing it helped my progress.
Thanks for uploading ...My vehicle is only 25 years old but I like to hear your take on problems and how to fix them..My 1966 Mustang was only three years old when I bought it..Time flys when you're having fun....
As a fellow Texan, I wholeheartedly agree with both of your issues. Paved roads in Texas, plus aftermarket "Good Enough" Mustang body parts: Both lead to disappointment and future regret. My hat off to you for taking on the frustrating task of using these parts. It's difficult enough to get quality parts to fit properly. But when you have to redesign and re-fabricate the part too, I lose my patience real fast.
The roads in the city here are so bad at every intersection that you get seasick driving around. I am working on the drivers side right now as it is the worst. Back is still sore from doing tile work so it's taking longer to get done than normal.
Just installed the cheap pre welded torque box’s on my 65 and they fit amazing right out of the box. I was surprised they were thicker than the 16 gauge I expected but fit perfectly with the only trimming was because of my over sized fuel line and I wanted more clearance. So maybe they fixed the quality issues or I just got lucky, I’m not sure but the roads here in Texas are getting worse every year. Older video I know but wanted to share my experience.
Yeah the ones I had were the old design. I don't know if any of the parts suppliers have and of them anymore but you never know with small resellers. The current ones are far better quality and have the correct jogs and other bends in them. They are 14ga and lots of fun to rebend.... My issue with roads in TX is that no one knows how to properly pave an intersection or a driveway apron. They think everything should have a big dip at every 90" intersection. But the roads themselves in my area are the best they have ever been. I have been here since 89 and back then they were not much different from PA roads.
The fit is allot worse than it looks on camera. The other issue is these pieces are almost 1/8" thick so reworking them is not easy without a brake. Cutting and rewelding isn't really an option because it takes away from the integrity of the original sheet of steel.
They are the really old spectra premium. The current ones they make are far better in every way and i have no problem using the new ones but the two piece versions are still preferred. Being preassembled is not a benefit.
I see ur using the HF Titanium welder what settings r u using and gas are u using Btw great videos love watching them very helpful as I’m trying to restore a ‘68 cougar
Thanks. I'm not the best at filming etc but I am trying to be more informative than anything else. I don't remember the settings off hand but I have them written down on the welder. Generally I start with the numbers on the welder then I go higher voltage and increase the wire speed because the welds you do on sheet metal are more like short tacks you want to get it done fast then let it cool. I usually use .025 wire but... If I have changed to .030 for welding something thicker I will just adjust but it's not ideal. Just a pain changing wire sometimes. As for gas I am using C25. I'll post my numbers tomorrow. Also it's the titanium 170 which has the induction adjustment which is very handy for thin steel.
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I am doing these on a 66 coupe and in my case a four ton portable hydraulic jack was key. it not only helped push it into place but when welding I could push and bend areas to get them flat - pushing from ground and wedged in against the drums. It was a tight fit and you should expect it will require some trimming. I wish I would have put them in before the floorboards but I did not know enough. I did get a brass hammer because of this video and it was also critical. Thanks for providing video of how it fits! Seeing it helped my progress.
Thanks for uploading ...My vehicle is only 25 years old but I like to hear your take on problems and how to fix them..My 1966 Mustang was only three years old when I bought it..Time flys when you're having fun....
Time goes faster and faster every day.
As a fellow Texan, I wholeheartedly agree with both of your issues. Paved roads in Texas, plus aftermarket "Good Enough" Mustang body parts: Both lead to disappointment and future regret. My hat off to you for taking on the frustrating task of using these parts. It's difficult enough to get quality parts to fit properly. But when you have to redesign and re-fabricate the part too, I lose my patience real fast.
The roads in the city here are so bad at every intersection that you get seasick driving around. I am working on the drivers side right now as it is the worst. Back is still sore from doing tile work so it's taking longer to get done than normal.
Just installed the cheap pre welded torque box’s on my 65 and they fit amazing right out of the box. I was surprised they were thicker than the 16 gauge I expected but fit perfectly with the only trimming was because of my over sized fuel line and I wanted more clearance. So maybe they fixed the quality issues or I just got lucky, I’m not sure but the roads here in Texas are getting worse every year. Older video I know but wanted to share my experience.
Yeah the ones I had were the old design. I don't know if any of the parts suppliers have and of them anymore but you never know with small resellers. The current ones are far better quality and have the correct jogs and other bends in them. They are 14ga and lots of fun to rebend....
My issue with roads in TX is that no one knows how to properly pave an intersection or a driveway apron. They think everything should have a big dip at every 90" intersection. But the roads themselves in my area are the best they have ever been. I have been here since 89 and back then they were not much different from PA roads.
That panel fits pretty good. It definitely needs some massaging but it is mostly workable.
The fit is allot worse than it looks on camera. The other issue is these pieces are almost 1/8" thick so reworking them is not easy without a brake. Cutting and rewelding isn't really an option because it takes away from the integrity of the original sheet of steel.
@@theinfernalcraftsman I had no idea. It almost sounds easier to make your own pieces.
What brand did you use in this video ?
They are the really old spectra premium. The current ones they make are far better in every way and i have no problem using the new ones but the two piece versions are still preferred. Being preassembled is not a benefit.
Hours of fun!
I see ur using the HF Titanium welder what settings r u using and gas are u using Btw great videos love watching them very helpful as I’m trying to restore a ‘68 cougar
Thanks. I'm not the best at filming etc but I am trying to be more informative than anything else.
I don't remember the settings off hand but I have them written down on the welder. Generally I start with the numbers on the welder then I go higher voltage and increase the wire speed because the welds you do on sheet metal are more like short tacks you want to get it done fast then let it cool.
I usually use .025 wire but... If I have changed to .030 for welding something thicker I will just adjust but it's not ideal. Just a pain changing wire sometimes. As for gas I am using C25.
I'll post my numbers tomorrow. Also it's the titanium 170 which has the induction adjustment which is very handy for thin steel.
What part of Texas you in brother.
I am NW of Fort Worth.
@@theinfernalcraftsman I'm in Cleburne texas very nice dude