Thank you. I felt foolish when the plug started to strip on me. I've come to learn that nearly everyone has had the same experience. Your idea outsmarted the engineering team at GM haha
I've used the GM one for years on my GMC yukon until the transmission shop that repaired my valve body put it on super tight. I took the pan off and was able to get it off with an air hammer chisel. I did buy a Dorman replacement and it is made of harder metal and has a larger head.
Stripped my bolt. Also disformed it with a cold chisel trying to remove it. What worked was heating up and using WD-40 for about 1.5 - 2 minutes. I heard air escape from the bolt (probably the rubber grommet breaking apart?) after about 2 minute and then I went at it with one of those gripping sockets and this time it didn't even put up a fight. Replace with a better (higher profile bolt)
Basically what you are stating is that the pan needs replacement and off or welding is the only other option with the pan off to get at the flaw design of the drain plug. Is that correct?
What vehicle is this pan off of? I ened up taking the large nut off the inside of the pan to remove both it and the bolt. I am a little worried it will leak, so I want to replace the pan. Unfortunately, I got the motor and trans off CL and don't know the year. I keep finding pans with a corner that is recessed. Thanks
I checked with all the autoparts stores and none carried the trans pan plug but they do carry the oil pan plug from which i researched has the same specs m12-1.75 is that what you got and how has it worked so far? No loosening?
Same problem🤨🤨🤨🤨🤐 Once again some design engineer felt the need to to make a drain plug screw more aerodynamic, so that the vehicle can slice thru the air saving thousands of gallons of fuel in it's life time. I even broke out a big hammer and chisel, still wouldn't budge.
Im no expert when it comes to welding i only have an ark welder and have done only lets say good enough to get the job done welding but that seems pretty dangerous with a bunch of t fluid right above you. Am i wrong?
Gregg Nelson thanks for the quick response. Thats a good idea i may have to end up trying that when i change mine in the next month and il prob go get the new plug also. GM deff did a purposely bad design on that. Thanks
@@jewllake AZone only show the aftermarket part which is the exact replica of the original one. The one you got must be a universal drain bolt but with the same thread pitch as the OE part.
1st... OEM's make oddball sized fittings in the hopes that DIY's can't access it and thus, you have to take it to them for service. 2nd...you stated that you rounded off the corners of the bolt hex. I bet you used a twelve point socket when you should have used a six point socket. Or! it was a twelve point hex and you used a six point socket???? Then you state that even using vise grips failed remove it. Seems to me that you had either the wrong vise grips or didn't tighten them enough on the stripped hex of the bolt.
The reasons why it's stuck, is because of that rubber gasket on it, the people who assembled thousands of these transmissions didn't lubricate a single one of those rubber washers. EVERYONE has a hard time getting them off because of this. Just be sure to dip your finger in transmission fluid and coat the rubber gasket, then it will never be a problem again.
Thank you. I felt foolish when the plug started to strip on me. I've come to learn that nearly everyone has had the same experience. Your idea outsmarted the engineering team at GM haha
Man you just saved my ass . I've been fighting this dang thing all day . I getting out my flux core right now. Thanks alot
Just did my service and i had the same prob with the drain plug. The welding of a nut to the bolt worked great once the pan Was off. Thanks again.
Thank you, , same exact problem here, stripped out transmission plug. Good advice
I've used the GM one for years on my GMC yukon until the transmission shop that repaired my valve body put it on super tight. I took the pan off and was able to get it off with an air hammer chisel. I did buy a Dorman replacement and it is made of harder metal and has a larger head.
Thank you. About to do the same thing, just wanted to know it would work! Well done sir!
Good stuff. Very creative approach
Great video. I had the same thing happen to me. Thanks for the idea!
Thanks a lot!
Valuable information!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸😎👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Stripped my bolt. Also disformed it with a cold chisel trying to remove it. What worked was heating up and using WD-40 for about 1.5 - 2 minutes. I heard air escape from the bolt (probably the rubber grommet breaking apart?) after about 2 minute and then I went at it with one of those gripping sockets and this time it didn't even put up a fight. Replace with a better (higher profile bolt)
Basically what you are stating is that the pan needs replacement and off or welding is the only other option with the pan off to get at the flaw design of the drain plug. Is that correct?
What vehicle is this pan off of? I ened up taking the large nut off the inside of the pan to remove both it and the bolt. I am a little worried it will leak, so I want to replace the pan. Unfortunately, I got the motor and trans off CL and don't know the year. I keep finding pans with a corner that is recessed. Thanks
The heat from the MIG welding helps break it loose.
good point
I checked with all the autoparts stores and none carried the trans pan plug but they do carry the oil pan plug from which i researched has the same specs m12-1.75 is that what you got and how has it worked so far? No loosening?
Stone Mills I think you are exactly right. And yes it has held perfectly.
Gregg Nelson Great and thanks again
Is there any harm I'm welding it still o. The vehicle?
Nice job. You probably know that that’s a nut you added. Think you said bolt.
Same problem🤨🤨🤨🤨🤐 Once again some design engineer felt the need to to make a drain plug screw more aerodynamic, so that the vehicle can slice thru the air saving thousands of gallons of fuel in it's life time. I even broke out a big hammer and chisel, still wouldn't budge.
Loctite from factory is the common consensus. Every one of them does that.
Good job thanks
Im no expert when it comes to welding i only have an ark welder and have done only lets say good enough to get the job done welding but that seems pretty dangerous with a bunch of t fluid right above you. Am i wrong?
Stone Mills I did the welding after I had already taken the pan off. This fix was done for the “next time”.
Gregg Nelson thanks for the quick response. Thats a good idea i may have to end up trying that when i change mine in the next month and il prob go get the new plug also. GM deff did a purposely bad design on that. Thanks
Can you provide the exact part number for the drain bolt from Autozone?
Just go to Autozone and ask for it. They may have to order it. It is a Dorman part.
@@jewllake AZone only show the aftermarket part which is the exact replica of the original one. The one you got must be a universal drain bolt but with the same thread pitch as the OE part.
Had anyone told you that you look like Mike Huckabee?
Haha. No
Saaammmeee with me. 2000 Silverado 5.3 2wd.
IMHO I would have eliminated the bolt altogether and install a FUMOTO valve, check them out.
My plug is stripped
@#$&* that plug!
1st... OEM's make oddball sized fittings in the hopes that DIY's can't access it and thus, you have to take it to them for service. 2nd...you stated that you rounded off the corners of the bolt hex. I bet you used a twelve point socket when you should have used a six point socket. Or! it was a twelve point hex and you used a six point socket???? Then you state that even using vise grips failed remove it. Seems to me that you had either the wrong vise grips or didn't tighten them enough on the stripped hex of the bolt.
I used a hex specifically so that I don't strip mine, and it still stripped.
The reasons why it's stuck, is because of that rubber gasket on it, the people who assembled thousands of these transmissions didn't lubricate a single one of those rubber washers. EVERYONE has a hard time getting them off because of this. Just be sure to dip your finger in transmission fluid and coat the rubber gasket, then it will never be a problem again.