At 9:54 - there are 2 more screws to further secure the cooling fan. The printer moves the bed up to allow access to the screw holes. By selecting "Skip", you missed that step.
Extremely helpful. You made the unboxing and setup very easy. This is a fantastic printer. I upgraded from a Creality Ender 2 Pro. I make parts for an artist's easeI I manufacture. Thank you!
before you use a new printer you always should wash the print surface with detergent. The pre-sliced sample file will always refer back to the temperature as set in the G-code. Every Idex printer will do that. If you want to use different materials with different temperatures you need to slice it that way. The J1 can be run with Luban, Ideamaker, Cura, Prusa Slicer, Simplify 3D, Orca slicer and most likely a few more. I use Orca slicer for my J1 and love it.
@benjimc1 I level the bed with the fantastic levelling procedure and then calibrate the nozzles. It is fast and super easy. Then I manually adjust while doing a bed test layer as I need the bed to be 100% level. That will work for a long time, I only have to redo it when I change to different nozzles (I use mainly Creality S1 nozzles but also other V6 high flow nozzles like CHT.
@@benjimc1 , I use Orca and get great print quality. I keep the speed between 120 and 150mm/sec. Above that I do not trust layer bonding on any of my printers. Bed levelling is super easy done by the printer, you also can adjust the Z height in the menu. I rarely do it as I usually only change the nozzle, not the complete hotend
@@misterbean29 Hello from France... I intend to get a new printer and I'm hesitating between a J1 and a P1S from Bambu Lab...but with a lot of waste and perhaps better quality Are you fully satisfied with the SnapMaker J1 ???? How is the procedure on orca for J1 to send files via Wifi Thanks in advance Hervé Bonjour de France... J'ai l'intention de prendre une nouvelle imprimante et j'hésite entre une J1 et une P1S de Bambu Lab...mais avec beaucoup de déchet avec peut être une meilleur qualité Etes vous pleinement satisfait de la SnapMaker J1 ???? Comment est la procédure sur orca pour la J1 pour envoyer par le Wifi les fichiers Merci d'avance Hervé
How do i get my white and orange to work at the same time for 1 print? whats the settings? it says dual left orange and right white.. and then only orange works.. Im using the software from snapmaker but do i just download Cura app.. what about prusa?
Do you know what software I should be using? Cause their own software Luban seems to have problems with saving projects and Cura has a way too complicated coloring system. Help is appreciated alot
Did you reduce the z-hop? I read that in several other places to be a solution to the cloggingin issue. I'm looking into buying a new 3D printer with IDEX. (currently have my 12 year old Ultimaker original with heated bed)
Reducing z Hop only helps with stringing. Heat creep comes from bad cooling of the cold zone or printing very slow for longer time. Printing too hot or a too high chamber temp can be a cause too.
@@Todestelzer I've just got a Snapmaker J1. The previous printer I owned was a an Ultimaker (original, with heated bed upgrade though, haha talking about upgrading to an heated bed, 12 years ago already!). In any case. How would it then work printing ABS that needs a closed enclosure? How could the cold zone (whatever that might be, I imagine some part of the extruder) be cooled while in an enclosure? Peltier elements?
@@xDevoneyx the extruder has a cold and hot zone. In the hot zone you are melting filament. You have a small gap between hot and cold zone the heat break. If your fan cooling the cold zone is insufficient or the cold zone too small you are getting heat creep from the hot zone to the cold zone. The filament gets soft and will get stuck in the cold zone / heat break. You can use google to get more information about it very easily.
@@xDevoneyx , the closed encloser will allow the interior to heat up to max 50deg/C. That is cool enough for hotend cooling with materials that need higher print temps than 220deg/C. PETG, ASA. PC, PA and ABS, no problem. For PLA, just take the lid off or leave the door open.
A friend of mine in Grade 8 died because his moronic Jehovah's Witness parents would not allow the simple appendectomy surgery. Said they'd pray. It was national news and made for new Federal law that parents can't kill their kids for a Sky Friend.
At 9:54 - there are 2 more screws to further secure the cooling fan. The printer moves the bed up to allow access to the screw holes. By selecting "Skip", you missed that step.
Extremely helpful. You made the unboxing and setup very easy. This is a fantastic printer. I upgraded from a Creality Ender 2 Pro. I make parts for an artist's easeI I manufacture. Thank you!
How do I get broken filament in the tube?
I tried to print the octopus three times, twice with Luban slicer all failed, with Cura succeeded, but can't modify the color
Thanks for the video! Have it has any extruder clogs while printing?
before you use a new printer you always should wash the print surface with detergent.
The pre-sliced sample file will always refer back to the temperature as set in the G-code. Every Idex printer will do that. If you want to use different materials with different temperatures you need to slice it that way. The J1 can be run with Luban, Ideamaker, Cura, Prusa Slicer, Simplify 3D, Orca slicer and most likely a few more. I use Orca slicer for my J1 and love it.
how do you find the print quality? also how often do you have to level the bed?
@benjimc1 I level the bed with the fantastic levelling procedure and then calibrate the nozzles. It is fast and super easy. Then I manually adjust while doing a bed test layer as I need the bed to be 100% level. That will work for a long time, I only have to redo it when I change to different nozzles (I use mainly Creality S1 nozzles but also other V6 high flow nozzles like CHT.
@@benjimc1 , I use Orca and get great print quality. I keep the speed between 120 and 150mm/sec. Above that I do not trust layer bonding on any of my printers. Bed levelling is super easy done by the printer, you also can adjust the Z height in the menu. I rarely do it as I usually only change the nozzle, not the complete hotend
wow thank you so much for the reply...trying to send g code with Orca.. also with the prusa slicer via wifi.. just learning as I go
@@misterbean29 Hello from France...
I intend to get a new printer and I'm hesitating between a J1 and a P1S from Bambu Lab...but with a lot of waste and perhaps better quality
Are you fully satisfied with the SnapMaker J1 ????
How is the procedure on orca for J1 to send files via Wifi
Thanks in advance
Hervé
Bonjour de France...
J'ai l'intention de prendre une nouvelle imprimante et j'hésite entre une J1 et une P1S de Bambu Lab...mais avec beaucoup de déchet avec peut être une meilleur qualité
Etes vous pleinement satisfait de la SnapMaker J1 ????
Comment est la procédure sur orca pour la J1 pour envoyer par le Wifi les fichiers
Merci d'avance
Hervé
Thanks
How do i get my white and orange to work at the same time for 1 print? whats the settings? it says dual left orange and right white.. and then only orange works.. Im using the software from snapmaker but do i just download Cura app.. what about prusa?
click on the part, then right click and chose the left or right toolhead
Do you know what software I should be using? Cause their own software Luban seems to have problems with saving projects and Cura has a way too complicated coloring system. Help is appreciated alot
Orca. It works perfect
That printer is a heat creep clog machine. Nothing else!!!
Did you reduce the z-hop? I read that in several other places to be a solution to the cloggingin issue. I'm looking into buying a new 3D printer with IDEX. (currently have my 12 year old Ultimaker original with heated bed)
Reducing z Hop only helps with stringing.
Heat creep comes from bad cooling of the cold zone or printing very slow for longer time.
Printing too hot or a too high chamber temp can be a cause too.
@@Todestelzer I've just got a Snapmaker J1. The previous printer I owned was a an Ultimaker (original, with heated bed upgrade though, haha talking about upgrading to an heated bed, 12 years ago already!). In any case. How would it then work printing ABS that needs a closed enclosure? How could the cold zone (whatever that might be, I imagine some part of the extruder) be cooled while in an enclosure? Peltier elements?
@@xDevoneyx the extruder has a cold and hot zone. In the hot zone you are melting filament.
You have a small gap between hot and cold zone the heat break.
If your fan cooling the cold zone is insufficient or the cold zone too small you are getting heat creep from the hot zone to the cold zone. The filament gets soft and will get stuck in the cold zone / heat break.
You can use google to get more information about it very easily.
@@xDevoneyx , the closed encloser will allow the interior to heat up to max 50deg/C. That is cool enough for hotend cooling with materials that need higher print temps than 220deg/C. PETG, ASA. PC, PA and ABS, no problem. For PLA, just take the lid off or leave the door open.
Where is carbon fiber, pc tests
A friend of mine in Grade 8 died because his moronic Jehovah's Witness parents would not allow the simple appendectomy surgery. Said they'd pray.
It was national news and made for new Federal law that parents can't kill their kids for a Sky Friend.