You really are a Gem! What those other mechanics must have put that poor woman through just to make money off of her is just sad. So great to see that there are still a few great people out there that really know what they are doing and that are willing to get the job done right without ripping people off. Sure wish we had more people like you.
Awesome Peter! I hate when repair shops take advantage of customers. My cousin's husband recently passed and her car was making a loud roaring sound. She took it to Goodyear by her house and they quoted her $3500 in repairs. New ball joints, lower control arms, front struts, CV axle, steering rack. She came to my house in tears, I test drove it and said it may be your wheel bearings. I jacked up the front and did the 9-3 and 6-12 test but it was tight. Spun the wheel with my hand on the front strut coil and it was the driver's side. I ordered the wheel bearings from Rock Auto and pushed out the old and pushed in the new bearings. Now it's quiet.
Good on you for finding and fixing her car with ten cents worth of blue lock tight. When I watch videos like this it reminds me of when a guy ripped me off telling me that he fixed my truck and charged me for repairs not done. It still makes me mad 😡 because I had to fix it myself. And it still runs just fine many years later. Good job Peter.
Glad you were able to help the lady. You are an awesome technician. Not just because you know what you are doing, but because you are so honest - a virtue which is disappearing today. We have a similar thunking noise from our 2008 Highlander. We believe it's a bolt somewhere as well, but nobody has been able to find it yet. Hopefully, it will show itself before something important falls off 😊
Stories like this make my blood boil. I really hate it when a person is taken advantage of by a vehicle repair shop or mechanic or by any other repair services, regardless of what the item is that's in need of fixing or replacing. An honest and competent mechanic or vehicle repair shop that's the caliber of Peter can be quite difficult to come by. That Highlander looks like it's in nice condition; when that seepage from the steering rack and boots becomes a substantial leak, then, and only then, it will be time for replacement. On a more important note, it's good to have Peter back and feeling well.
This is exactly why we all are afraid to trust mechanics because some are crocks, and it gives all a bad name, so yes it very important to find a very good and trustable mechanic. New sub here, thank you for your upload.👍.
I have same issue with my 99 Toyota rav4. Havent been able to pinpoint. Just replaced the engine bay fuel filter it has 249,000 miles. Fantastic winter vehicle
Well done....great to know there are honest and conscientious repair shops such as yours. My lesson in auto repair shops taking advantage of female (could also be male, but females seem to be a target) customers. 40+ years ago I was in a waiting room at a M*d&s M*ff&*^ shop and overheard a woman customer with her three small children speaking to her husband, via a pay phone, informing him that the car needed front and rear brakes/rotors and shocks, ball joints, leaf springs (that one really got me....the car couldn't have been more than a few years old) and of course the muffler (back then they advertised $29 mufflers) she had come in to have replaced. Of course they had told the car was unsafe to drive (a danger to her and children.) It was going to cost over $800. I could only imagine the husband on the other end of the phone nearly passing out when he was expecting to need a $29 muffler. From that point forward I've warned countless folks to always get a second opinion when an auto shop provides an exorbitant estimate of repair work that you didn't anticipate. Unless you are working with a trusted shop.
2009 Yaris with 115k miles. My ONLY gripe with it is that it shakes and vibrates when in Drive (D) stopped with brake depressed at a signal light. Though not excessive, the vibrations & shaking are noticeable enough to be felt through the seat, steering wheel, and headrest. Vibrations & shaking go away when I shift to N or P. I also activated handbrake while in Drive (D) and let go of brake, - didn’t make it worse/better. Activated AC - didn’t make it worse or better. Not sure what could be causing this? Replaced all the motor mounts and cleaned TB. Car idles perfect in Park & Neutral. No issues when the car is at speed and in motion. Just when that brake is depressed and stopped in Drive (D). My only logical guess is something going on with the torque converter? But even that seems so very unlikely. Any thoughts? Love this car and want to make it as good as it can be. I was told this is a “common thing” for Toyota and especially the Yaris. But that just doesn’t seem plausible to me.
Check out The Car Care Nut on UA-cam; he's a master Toyota technician who's the caliber of Peter, both in competence and honesty. He has a discussion about torque converter shudder that affected some Toyota models during the first decade and early in the second decade of the 2000s. By the way, he really likes the Yaris models.
Welcome back and hope you're 100% happy & healthy.
You really are a Gem! What those other mechanics must have put that poor woman through just to make money off of her is just sad. So great to see that there are still a few great people out there that really know what they are doing and that are willing to get the job done right without ripping people off. Sure wish we had more people like you.
Thank God for mechanics like you Peter, your honesty stands above all the rest.
Awesome Peter! I hate when repair shops take advantage of customers. My cousin's husband recently passed and her car was making a loud roaring sound. She took it to Goodyear by her house and they quoted her $3500 in repairs. New ball joints, lower control arms, front struts, CV axle, steering rack. She came to my house in tears, I test drove it and said it may be your wheel bearings. I jacked up the front and did the 9-3 and 6-12 test but it was tight. Spun the wheel with my hand on the front strut coil and it was the driver's side. I ordered the wheel bearings from Rock Auto and pushed out the old and pushed in the new bearings. Now it's quiet.
Welcome back Petr. This Highlander looks like it will be good for another 220,000 miles if the customer let's you take care of it. 😁
Good on you for finding and fixing her car with ten cents worth of blue lock tight.
When I watch videos like this it reminds me of when a guy ripped me off telling me that he fixed my truck and charged me for repairs not done. It still makes me mad 😡 because I had to fix it myself. And it still runs just fine many years later. Good job Peter.
You are an awesome technician! Thanks for your thoroughness and caring for the customer!
She is very fortunate that she found you. Buena gente = good people good heart
Welcome back. You are the first toyota mechanic I started following years ago.❤
Glad you were able to help the lady. You are an awesome technician. Not just because you know what you are doing, but because you are so honest - a virtue which is disappearing today.
We have a similar thunking noise from our 2008 Highlander. We believe it's a bolt somewhere as well, but nobody has been able to find it yet. Hopefully, it will show itself before something important falls off 😊
Great analysis and explanation.
Fantastic Peter! Glad you are feeling better missed you!!
Stories like this make my blood boil. I really hate it when a person is taken advantage of by a vehicle repair shop or mechanic or by any other repair services, regardless of what the item is that's in need of fixing or replacing. An honest and competent mechanic or vehicle repair shop that's the caliber of Peter can be quite difficult to come by. That Highlander looks like it's in nice condition; when that seepage from the steering rack and boots becomes a substantial leak, then, and only then, it will be time for replacement. On a more important note, it's good to have Peter back and feeling well.
Glad to see you are back and feeling better. Covid is nothing to play with.
You have to be Sherlock Holmes to find those under torqued bolts on that right front strut... Good job!!
As a matter of fact, I was just thinking this past weekend that I had not seen any new content from you lately. Glad to hear you are feeling better!
Owner will be super Happy and will CERTAINLY BE BACK TO YOUR SHOP and will probably tell all her friends about you!
Glad you're back! You was missed!!
Hope you’re feelin better!!
God bless~
Looked for you everyday.
Great diagnosis Peter. Honesty is the best policy. Lead on!
Glad you’re on the road to recovery
Great diagnosis and repair my friend. Cheers Peter.🇨🇦🇺🇸👍
Your commitment to your customers is commendable and refreshing. 👍
Absolutely AWESOME JOB, Peter!!! Love your videos and learn SO MUCH!!! Thank you!
Good to see you again, enjoy your videos.
Great job Peter!
You honest. God bless you.
Glad to hear you are feeling better Peter! Keep those videos coming!
Thank you for expertise and honesty, mine has a similar sound going on recently. I will check this
I’m glad you doing good after covid. Greetings from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
This is exactly why we all are afraid to trust mechanics because some are crocks, and it gives all a bad name, so yes it very important to find a very good and trustable mechanic. New sub here, thank you for your upload.👍.
Hi sir. Glad you are doing well. 😀😀😀
I have same issue with my 99 Toyota rav4. Havent been able to pinpoint. Just replaced the engine bay fuel filter it has 249,000 miles. Fantastic winter vehicle
The front struts are of different kind; I've been told to always replace them in pair.
👍Peter you're the best.
Thanks for the great tips
Just came across your channel today, now subscribed. Look forward to seeing your other videos.
No rust underneath. Awesome!
Great job diagnosing this problem your very smart I like you brother
Keep up great videos. Thx from Hawaii. You and car care nut are the best. 🤙🏽
Well done....great to know there are honest and conscientious repair shops such as yours. My lesson in auto repair shops taking advantage of female (could also be male, but females seem to be a target) customers.
40+ years ago I was in a waiting room at a M*d&s M*ff&*^ shop and overheard a woman customer with her three small children speaking to her husband, via a pay phone, informing him that the car needed front and rear brakes/rotors and shocks, ball joints, leaf springs (that one really got me....the car couldn't have been more than a few years old) and of course the muffler (back then they advertised $29 mufflers) she had come in to have replaced. Of course they had told the car was unsafe to drive (a danger to her and children.) It was going to cost over $800. I could only imagine the husband on the other end of the phone nearly passing out when he was expecting to need a $29 muffler.
From that point forward I've warned countless folks to always get a second opinion when an auto shop provides an exorbitant estimate of repair work that you didn't anticipate. Unless you are working with a trusted shop.
Nowadays they give estimate of 2500 to 5000 bucks for non needed repairs
Great, Job. I have a the same sound on my 2011 Corolla, I will changed out the front struts in the summer, must be the same symptoms. Thanks.
Greetings from Brazil😉😉😉
Hi. Where is your shop located and contact information. I have a 06 hybrid Highlander that needs some work.
Sway bar end link !
2009 Yaris with 115k miles. My ONLY gripe with it is that it shakes and vibrates when in Drive (D) stopped with brake depressed at a signal light. Though not excessive, the vibrations & shaking are noticeable enough to be felt through the seat, steering wheel, and headrest.
Vibrations & shaking go away when I shift to N or P. I also activated handbrake while in Drive (D) and let go of brake, - didn’t make it worse/better. Activated AC - didn’t make it worse or better. Not sure what could be causing this? Replaced all the motor mounts and cleaned TB.
Car idles perfect in Park & Neutral. No issues when the car is at speed and in motion. Just when that brake is depressed and stopped in Drive (D). My only logical guess is something going on with the torque converter? But even that seems so very unlikely.
Any thoughts? Love this car and want to make it as good as it can be. I was told this is a “common thing” for Toyota and especially the Yaris. But that just doesn’t seem plausible to me.
Check out The Car Care Nut on UA-cam; he's a master Toyota technician who's the caliber of Peter, both in competence and honesty. He has a discussion about torque converter shudder that affected some Toyota models during the first decade and early in the second decade of the 2000s. By the way, he really likes the Yaris models.
👍
i THINK IT NEEDS DUCT TAPE AND JB WELD.
I'm sad to hear that too many people get ripped off.
it is much worse than you think.
And getting worse.
Could you please do a buyers guide on these first Gen highlanders?
I'd be afraid of changing the camber by removing both strut nuts at the same time.
Well that sure was some entertainment. Disgusting behaviour from the tyre shop