Hello Ben, this is just a short message to thank you very much for the info in your videos. So far, those I watched are about sharpening and I like your very practical/field approach using basic, cheap and easy to carry tools. Swinging a machete is always fun but it's definitely funner (and less tiring) when it's sharp. Thanks a lot again and have a nice day. Sebastien
It's kind of funny: back when I was much younger, my Grandparents lived in Pennsylvania, and there was a gun shop in town. Being a young boy running around in the mountains, I noticed upon entering this gun shop, there was a massive assortment of machetes with a sign that read "surplus". I couldn't believe that I could get such a great "weapon" for only $5.00 to $10.00 dollars, sometimes $15.00 when on the expensive side. So everytime I went with an uncle or my Grandfather to the store, I always ended up buying a machete. All different types, shapes and sizes. I had no understanding of a machete and that I had to sharpen it after I bought it. Now, in my Dad's basement, I have at least 30 military surplus machetes, and I'm seeing a lot of these things going for quite a bit of money. I haven't seen them for years, but I'm really curious to see what all I acquired all those years ago. If they're still there, I'll have to send in a few pictures of the collection, I'm really wondering what they would be worth. I'm not looking to make money off of them, if they're still there, I'd just like to see them go to a good home, one at a time.
It sounds like you're a kid in a candy shop finding all those machetes you stored! I know I would be as well. Yes, some of them can be quite collectable, especially if they have some maker marks on them. The biggest market for these is in the USA. I know their were quite a few Bolo's made in Japan that made their way into the US war efforts in Vietnam. They have a big 'BOLO' logo in a circle near the tip of the machete. The western military forces did use many different makers and styles though. Collectors prefer these in as original condition as they can get but personally, tuning them up and using them is the way to go. It sounds like you have several generations worth to get through. Would love to see some pictures when you get around to it. You can find me on FB at 'North Arm Machete Co.' All the best MARSOC, Ben
You're right on Billy. Most did stop stocking the old surplus machetes a long while back. I guess they ran out? Most were from the Vietnam era. Maybe there are some from East Timor in the early 2000's. I do get contacted from Army lads every now and then sending photos of old surplus machetes found in their storerooms.
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. Thanks for all of the information, right now I'm trying to work out a time that my Dad and I can both get together, as both our schedules are hectic, so I can visit and go check out the machetes. I also remembered I have a ton of camping gear down there, God only knows what I could find. I don't think it would be more than a week before we can hook up. It's definitely going to take me back to my childhood lol. I'll definitely be keeping you updated, and thanks for replying.
I don't own a sawhorse, but I could substitute a 2x4 secured to a table or bench. You really made it look easy. It's natural and even easy for any of us to obsess over the angle of the edge, but I've heard practice and you'll learn, but inexperienced people worry about messing up. Your replies to viewer questions and comments below are just as informative.
Again, thank you for the complements Frank. First up, please excuse the wait in a reply. The long bushfire season and now flood season has been keeping me busy (and awake at night). I have been slack in getting back to people. Yes, you can use many things to support the machete while you're sharpening. Fence posts, tables or 4x2 clamped to a table all work. Straddling a fallen tree trunk also works. You're right, inexperience holds a lot of people back but that's the beauty of learning how to sharpen with a machete. Even if you do a rough job of it, you can still get the tool to cut! They are a dream to use when properly sharpened though. That just comes with practice. All the best from a now less smoky Australia, Ben
I really like your technique, I live in Mexico, here machetes are really common but the people from the rural parts of the country usually sharp them in a weird form, I mean, they use files but they do it different, usually removing the original geometry and making some sort of convex grind.
Thank you for the kind review mate! It's always nice to hear from customers and I'm happy you had a good experience. That is what I aim for! I hope you enjoy the new tools. All the best mate, Ben
Thank you for the complement Elena! Honestly, I'm just happy to share the info. That magic marker trick is an oldie but a good one. I can't remember who first showed it to me but occasionally I still use it.
Im from México and your technique ara really nice it is similar to the one that a lot people used here but it really work for me, i used the machete for bushcrafting. regards.
G'day Tonk! Mate I'm the first to admit that none of what I do is original. To be honest, I was expecting a massive uproar from keyboard commandos saying it was wrong. Backwards and forwards seems more like an even split to be honest. One thing is for sure, the best advice and techniques on machete use still come from the South of America.....some of the best beer as well! All the best mate! Ben.
Funny. I have never used the traditional sharpening direction on my machetes. Yep, I am very wary. Back in earlier days I used a round axe finishing stone to sharpen my traditional machete (the shape you're sharpening). Thanks again. Great instructional video Ben. I am left handed also, so your perspective works for me :) . I had never crooked a machete in my arm to get the other side of the blade. I've always laid the blade across my lap, then flipped it lengthways to get to the other side. One hand using the stone, the other to steady the blade. I think I'll make a jig for home though.
It is nice to hear from someone who already uses a different method from the norm. Occasionally I still get a bit of friction from people who use the traditional method, but maybe that is a left handed thing? We are not worried about looking at things from another perspective. Although I don't often use sharpening jigs anymore, I'm a big supporter for people using them. It does not matter how you sharpen your tools, as long as you're happy with the edge and process. Some polish their tools to a carving sharp and others will scrape up a burr on concrete....I really dislike the 'experts' making out that sharpening is a mystical and un-achievable process. That just puts people off from having a go. Yes, that cradle method is a little different. I use it more when I'm out in the field as I can take a knee and support one side on my thigh, flip it and cradle the machete to get to the other. You can't beat a bench sharpening though! Everything is easier in the workshop.
Very informative video, MBA -- I was using the file the wrong way, cutting into it like a pocket knife and stone. No wonder the sticker bushes were laughing at me and my dull machete. Not any more, though; now the thing cuts like a light saber. Thank you.
Nice one mate! They feel a whole lot better to use when they are sharp. I'm really glad I could help someone out on the other side of the globe. Happy chopping Slinkylabcat!
Ouch!!! All work with sharp objects comes with a risk no matter how safe you are. The traditional method of filing into the edge catches a lot of people out. You're not alone buddy! I use to use a big, stacked leather guard on the file before I started using the backwards method. The traditional way is still faster as It tends to bight into the steel more but I find the backwards method safer.
I get where you're coming from Mad Max. I learned a long time ago with sharpening that there is never only one way to get a tool sharp (sharpening can be a hotly debated topic!). You're right that filing into the edge can remove steel more aggressively but it comes down to file and angle control. You can really hog out the steel in one spot if you're not moving the file across the whole length of the tool. With practice ,you can file into the edge, away from the edge and also 'draw file' the edge as well. You can sharpen a concave, straight and convex profiles with the three above. Flat and convex bevels are also achievable. I'm guessing here but I suspect one of the reasons filing into the edge became the norm all those years ago is because even a slightly dull file can be used to put an edge on a tool when filing towards it. When filing away from the edge, you really need a sharp file or a lot more force to compensate. Actually on that note about bill hooks, as my machetes age with use, they all develop a slight concave/convex curve from the handle to the tip. I can't say that any of them have a straight section in the edge but the weed chopping and crafting projects don't suffer from that. It's a darn good point though MM and I doubt that I mentioned it yet. Filing into the edge can remove steel lot more aggressively than filing away. All the best mate, Ben
Yes, I have watched in 4 times and I'll watch it and your videos because I learn many new things each time. Thank you for your fast reply to my email question. "Take care", Jim
Cheers mate and thanks for the complement! I'm really happy to pay forward the info that was passed on to me. I'm glad you are finding the information helpful. Kind regards, Ben
Thanks for the video suggestion Tyler. One of the things I try and focus on is content that has not really been done yet...which is hard to do as YT is massive! When I grind and shape the machetes on a belt grinder, it is very similar in style to everyone else's method. But it is a good question and I will add it to the list of clip ideas. If you're asking, chances are someone else will be interested as well. Thanks for the suggestionTyler! Kind regards, Ben.
Thanks for the response! I just wish you guys shipped to Texas! however your channel sold me on the Tramontina Bolo I've just spent 2 days modifying my own. Ill send a picture when its done.
Mate definitely send over some pics! Tramontina machetes really are diamonds in the rough. Darn good machetes and (obviously) the bolo's are our favourite. NAMCo does ship overseas for some people ( that can't find anything local that they like as shipping costs from OZ can take the fun right out of it). Cheers Tyler! Kind regards, Ben
Thanks for the informative video. I have never used machetes (it's not a traditional tool in this area) but lately my parents need my help at their weekend house and I have realized that the scythes (too large and hard to use on uneven ground and on thicker vegetation) and sickles (too small) they have there are not the best tools for clearing the "jungle" (high grass / chinese wisteria / wild blackberry bushes etc...) which grown there in the last year. I hope that with a bolo machete it will be a much easier job.
+Brandon Totel Ok, lots of research done on Amazon to find some comparable sharpening equipment. Sorry for the essay but I can fwd this to the other US campers that ask the same question. The easy ones to find are the “eze-lap diamond hones” The big paddle pop style sharpeners I use as in field sharpening kit are these: EZE-LAP L PAK Set SF/F/M Color Coded Diamond Hones The blue and red (super fine & fine) are the ones I used in the advanced sharpening clip and the purple (medium) can be used as a substitute for the Norton pocket stone. All the ezelap hones need breaking in as they cut fast and rough for awhile. Just polish the back of a chisel for about 5-10mins each. I also like the: EZE-LAP D5F Fine Oval Sharpening Steel, 5-Inch Which is the same as the red (fine) hones. Easy to hold and use but not as packable as the sticks. They are nice and light though! I don’t break these in as I like the way they cut. The green chrome stropping compound, any good brand is just fine. Woodstock D2902 1-Pound Extra Fine Buffing Compound, Green I use Veritas brand only because it’s the one that was in the shop at the time. The one above has decent reviews. Sure you can buy a strop if that’s your cup of tea, honestly it’s not needed. Chances are even the pro’s damage strops from time to time. Make a simple one to suit how you want to use it from cardboard, mdf, leather, canvas etc. Now the not so easy to match, but that is not a problem! The Stihl files I use and like are model #: Stihl 0814 252 3356. Just go to your local chainsaw shop and pick up their flat raker files. If it’s Stihl, they will have the ones above. Husky sell Oregon files and they are good as well. I like the orange Husky (Aussies don’t use the name Husqvarna as we can’t spell it!) quick change file handles. Flat raker files are pretty generic as far as the size and pitch as well as the two rounded safe edges. I would not bother with dollar store files though! Now on to the Norton Pocket stone. I can’t find an exact link to them in the states. Here is an Aussie link to the same stone in the clip. Stone Sharpening Norton 149c Pocket Stone Be205664 Here is one that looks similar on Amazon: Norton Pocket Knife Abrasive Sharpener with Case, 3" x 7/8" x 3/8" Size, Grit Medium (Pack of 5) To be honest, at this level of sharpening a lot of quality stones can deliver similar results. I typed in ‘axe stone’ in Amazon and there are a lot of good choices. The first result is the Norton axe and hatchet stone. This is a coarse and fine stone in one and I use them. Lansky puck sharpeners also come highly regarded. Canoe stones are very traditional sharpening stones for machetes. 9" 225mm Silverline Boat Shaped Combination Tools Knives Axes Sharpening Stone These are also a very good option for a sharpening stone although I find them a little aggressive. They are perfect for a very basic level of sharpness or chip removal. If I was to pick just one tool, these would be it. I cannot comment on the brand and quality. I don’t often use machetes with a rough edge these stones leave behind but I’m sure a lot of people would be happy with it. Now one point I’m not sure I put across very well in the clip. The system I showed suits a machete that already has a decent primary bevel. Even light chipping and abuse can be easily taken care of with the above system. Most new machetes come with a shocking factory sharpen and will need a fair bit of workshop time to shape the bevels properly before you sharpen them. I can’t recommend a good machete that has this already done as I’m yet to find one. The brands that come with a decent sharpen tend to be really bad quality machetes which is frustrating for buyers...I have tested many but obviously not all of them. That was a mouthful... Hope It helped mate. I’m happy to clarify anything I missed! Kind regards Ben
I really appreciated this video very much! I really learned exactly what I needed to know for now, as a beginner with the machete. I subscribed and hit the bell for all notifications! Thanks so much for this video, I can't wait to watch some more of your videos!
Thank you for the glowing comment mate! Honestly, I'm just happy to pay the information forward. Old timers were happy to share it with me, so I get to pass it on. I hope you find it all helpful mate. All the best from OZ, Ben
Thank you Andrew! That was one of the first ones we filmed and a lot has changed that's for sure. The sharpening technique still holds it's own but the filming style is different now. Cheers mate. All the best, Ben
+Kevin Solomon I'm glad I'm not the only one who does it backwards. It is just so much easier this way. The file/stone is always in your dominant hand so beginners find it safer as well.
+nick freeman Nice one Nick! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you found it straight forward! It's challenging sharing information sometimes as you don't know if you have given enough so it can be understood! Cheers Ben!
Hey Ben... You've totally changed my perspective on machetes old mate. I had no idea that you could do so much with a machete...ignorance is bliss,as they say mate. Thankyou for opening up my eyes to a new aspect of blades. Cheers mate, Mark Richards.
G'Day Mark and thanks for the comment. I'm glad I helped inspire a change of ideas. They really are a multi purpose tool and still my favourite camp item. Happy to share the info that was given to me. All the best mate, Ben
G'day Julio and thanks for the kind words and sub! Coming from a Brazilian, that speaks volumes. The rest of the world is starting to remember how useful machetes are in the bush. They have long been a favorite tool for me that's for sure and will always be the first tool I grab for a trip. Tramontina make a fantastic machete! They are very rough from the factory but once tuned up, I have found they outperform any other brand ( including the expensive ones and I have tested a lot of them) in the market. Congrats on hosting Olympics! I remember when we had it here in Australia in 2000. Their was a great vibe all around the country at the time and It did a lot for businesses that rely on tourists. Both Brazil and Australia share the same Olympic colours so don't forget to cheer us on as well Julio! Kind regards from Australia, Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia Yeah... People often complain because they think they just need an axe and a big knife, but that's only if you live someplace where it's colder and doesn't have ground-covering plants and vines. Thanks, Ben! I also really like the Tramontinas! I tested one or two other (and more expensive) brands from here, but they were centered too much on thickness for chopping and made the machetes too bulky for carrying and using inside a forest. I still need to learn how to make a good reshaped grind (and also need to gather some more tools hehe). On the Olympics, I hope it goes well. The brazilian social and political conjuncture isn't very good at the moment, but there may still be a chance of this turning out to be a good event! I remember when you hosted the Olympics! It was really great and the preparations were really beautiful! Congrats too! And I'll certainly cheer both countries! With regards from Brazil, Julio
I'm guessing here but are you talking about the little rough ribbon of steel on the very edge (called a wire edge)? If so, you can some what straighten it with a steel, and that edge is wicked sharp for soft green material (like in a veggie garden). If you're chopping into anything woody, it's best to remove this wire edge with stropping. Abrasive strops are the quickest but you can just use raw leather, denim, cardboard etc. I hope that helps, Doc.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia thank you for the detailed answer! I'm new to all this. I did the file and the pocket stone steps like in the video. But I don't know if I sharpened evenly on both sides. Some say they can tell by looking if the edge is curled more towards one side. So if I strop it after these steps it should become even? I also have a butcher's steel which from what I gather also straightens the edge but does not sharpen.
@@DocHoliday596 Yes, the butchers steel does not sharpen, it straightens the tiny flexible wire edge (mostly puts it back on centre). Wire edges are very useful for cutting soft material but they do tend to roll over easily. The butchers steel will partly clean the gunk, straighten the wire again and somewhat burnish the edge. When you strop, you're trying to remove that flexible wire, off the edge. You can do this on a strop without an abrasive compound. Essentially, you're just bending the wire ribbon back and forth until it breaks off. Abrasive compounds are faster and will also refine the edge a little. Keep in mind, if you're working on a machete, these are really forgiving to use when they are not super sharp. It's a beginner friendly tool to learn the basics of sharpening. Sharpen the best you can, then go out and test it. Once you get the hang of it on a machete, stepping up to basic kitchen knives and pocket knives is the next step. These benefit from better stones and a little more practice.... not much, though.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Thank you so much! I have a pocket stone just like the one in the video. Will sharpening with that be sufficient if I want to cut some thicker material? Because I don't really have a strop or know how to use one. Although I do have to learn eventually.
@@DocHoliday596 Mate, it will work just fine. If you have a big wire edge and cut something heavy, chances are it will break it off for you. The machete will feel dull sooner but a light touch up with the stone will bring that edge back faster than before. Use the sharpening equipment you have for now. Once you get the hang of it with those tools, you will end up doing what the rest of us have done, and that is exploring better equipment. Maybe to add a littler more to that, I have seen locals strike their machetes on concrete to bring up a rough edge for cutting. Without a doubt, you will be getting a better edge with a file and stone than they would be on a road surface. For now, the kit you have will get it done. If you're not interested in stropping, you can try and add a few degrees to the last strokes with that pocket stone. That might be enough to work off that wire edge. As far as strops go, my favorite is just a smooth dress piece of construction pine. I have been meaning to shoot a clip of that for years now but never got around to doing that.
Cheers Moorvale55 and thanks for the like and sub! I never really felt like I had a history until I spent a little time in the countryside over there. If anyone from the UK wants to know what Australians are like, we still have a strong link to you all . Sydney people are very much like Londoners, and out in the rural areas and small towns, the people are very similar to the countryside in the UK. Actually, I hear that a lot of the younger crowd in the UK still watch 'Home And Away' but you should not forget Australians all grew up watching the BBC. A lot of our kids shows are all from the UK. All the best mate! Ben
Champion mate! It's nice to get a subscriber from south of the border. Y'all know machetes far better than any of us westerners. All the best from OZ, Ben
Thanks for the complement Larry B! I did a fair bit of research when I started on how to present clearly (hey, I needed help!) and everything was pointing towards slow speech.. I found it really tough and it just made me um a whole lot more. I still um and ah far too much but talking at my normal pace now fixed a lot of that.
Awesome video mate thanks for sharing just added my own video Goanna Bushcraft and Leatherwork's about my products. One day I hope to buy one of your machetes for myself and then I'm going to make a sheath that will. E the pinnacle of sheaths for machetes. Thanks for the knowledge and will use your methods for my larger knives
Thanks for the kind words mate! I must admit, it's nice to stumble across a fellow Aussie UA-camr. I just checked out your channel. Lovely leather work. Looking fwd to seeing more of your clips. A lot of the sharpening tips translate to bigger knives/axes as that's what I learned on when I was younger. Actually, you would already be comfortable stropping with your leather craft tools. I still really like the Tandy white stropping compound for carbon steel but it's very fine and slow cutting. I use it after the green chrome compound.
Great vid, thanks. I like how you go over different sharpening methods, I'm going to hit my new Tramontina from behind from now on... um, that didn't sound good, but you know what I mean ;). Regards from the U.S.
hahahaha! I love the comments section of this channel! Even though I'm quite comfortable sharpening tools, I still stand by this method for a lot of reasons but the most important is safety even for beginners. I always mention that there are still many different way to keep your tools sharp. This is just one way. All the best Johnny the Dane, Ben
The best way to get a machete sharp is using it! As you use it it will start to dull then you have to sharpen it over and over again, you keep using it then resharpen again. I've seen some old machetes down here in mexico razor sharp and light weight because of so much use the metal is shaven from the blade making it lighter, better then any new or expensive brand machete!
Nail on the head mate. It's actually the reason I feel machetes are a great tool to use while you're learning how to sharpen. They are very forgiving to use even if your sharpening techniques is not perfect. I'm also a fan of the broken in and well used machetes. The better your cutting technique gets, the more you find yourself preferring the swiftness you get from lighter and thinner machetes. That was a great comment.
I had a theory about "wire edges" I was making a knife and I noticed it before I did a microbevel so it would be less likely to roll. I call it a tin foil edge. A fine edge is good but isn't needed on a machete because you might be chopping with one.
I think it is a much better description than calling it a 'wire edge'. I think that confuses a lot of people. It is much more like a ragged ribbon. Calling it a tin foil ribbon would have made a lot more sense. One of the advantages of hand sharpening tools is that you can easily adjust the edge angles. Putting a thinner bias closer to the handle and thicker at the chopping sweet spot is a great combo. I don't knock jig sharpening though as what ever gets your tools sharp it what matters. I'm yet to see anyone carry a bench sharpening jig into the field though.
Hello, I'm very new to sharpening machetes. Can you tell me what would happen if you went from tip to hilt, instead of hilt to tip, and why you sharpen in that direction? Thanks!
Happy to help mate. For the smaller field sharpening files (flat chainsaw file) I like the Stihl or Oregon branded ones. You can find them in the Stihl or Husqvarna stores. I like flat chainsaw files as they have two rounded safe edges which have other uses. Use can use the smooth edges as both a knife steel and as a tool to sharpen a card scraper edge. If you're sharpening in the workshop, you can't beat a bigger file. Bahco or Nicholson still make decent files that are affordable. You are looking for a 10' Mill Bastard file. They are single cut and are very good for sharpening a lot of agricultural tools. There are other good brands to look out for other than the above but they are not so easy to find in the average stores. I would skip on the HART branded ones or any of the other cheaper brands. They are not worth it in my opinion. If you're new to file sharpening, you will probably just think the process is really difficult and not realise that it might be the subpar file. Hope that helps! All the best, Ben
Oh I should add, I have always had a soft spot for our native Ibis. I can't help but feel they get a bad wrap. I find them to be very graceful and beautiful birds... not the 'bin chickens' we often name them to be.
I'm currently sharpening a 22" Barteaux & Sons machete I inherited and trying to figure out what the proper technique is. You mention the concave bevel in the video, am I correct in assuming that the bevel remains concave after sharpening? Also, is the angle of the bevel/edge along the blade the same as along the tip of the machete?
G'Day Sarah. I just had a look online any you're right, they make it hard to find. The Stihl branded ones are called 'stihl flat file 150mm 0814252 3000' and here is a link to the Australian Stihl website www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Accessories/Chainsaw-Accessories/21567-1649/Flat-File-with-case.aspx I could not find them on Amazon in the US but they have the Oregon ones. I would not get too hung up on getting the same brand. Oregon (Husquvarna sell oregon files) are also good but there are other brands out there. Actually, if you're after the best, Pferd make quality files but they are hard to find here in Australia so I never bothered. www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Files-Filing-Accessories/Depth-Gauge-Raker-Files/Pferd-Raker-Files/Pferd-6-Depth-Gauge-Raker-Files-box-of-10.axd That is a link to a US website. All the flat raker files I have seen come with two rounded safe edges if you're looking at using them for the card scraper. I also prefer chainsaw files as they generally have decent quality quick release handles so they are easier to pack. Drop buy a decent chainsaw shop and ask which ones they recommend. I hope that was helpful! Kind regards Ben
I tried to order one of super special bolo machetes from your website, but it appears you only sell & ship in Australia. As I live in the U.S. (Texas) I could not complete my order. Did I miss something, do you sell & ship outside Australia?
Sorry, mate. I can only ship within Australia. It's not you guys. It's an insurance issue. I did ship internationally many years ago but I had to pull the pin on that. All the best from OZ, Ben
Thanks for the complement mate! There are no Australian machete makers that I know of. I use to make them a long time ago but It's impossible to make a profit from the process when your doing it on a small scale. Heat treating very long and thin steel is challenging. Most of the proper thin machetes are still made in South America and are quality tools for the price. Tramontina is my pick but their are other good ones. Condor is great if you want something a little more finished. If you like the bushknife style machetes, have you come across Svord yet? It's a very well respected New Zealand brand and they make darn nice knives. I noticed they did the English style Golok. That would be hard to beat in my opinion. I hope that was helpful R2R. All the best mate, Ben
G'day James. It a little difficult to find now as everything is going synthetic but I stumbled across some last week. It is called 'cotton heading tape' and I found it in Spotlight (Australian chain) but online line craft stores that specialise in fabrics etc should have some. Did you catch the video I did on 'Anyone can make a strop'? Some of the synthetic tapes actually worked very well as a strop. The one in particular that I liked was a ribbon/tape from a fancy disposable brown paper bags handle. It's super light weight, low stretch and will hold up to wet weather for much longer. I hope this was helpful James! Kind regards, Ben.
Unfortunately they don't always list the grit sizes on traditional style sharpening stones. If it's that little black/dark grey stone, it feels like it is in the 400-600grit range. if it's the double sided axe puck, that feels like a 240/400grit stone. For machete use, the mill file/axe puck combo is going to get a machete sharp enough for 95% of tasks. I would only bother with the finer stones if you're planning on carving and crafting dry and hard timbers... Most westerners would usually carry a small crafting knife for that purpose though. I hope that helps Walter. All the best, Ben
Very well done...straight forward...easy to copy. The only thing that scares me? The way one has to sit on that sawhorse. On the other hand, as a Canadian, I should find some hokey cup protector somewhere in our house. LOL
Hey Patrick, I got a good laugh out of that mate! They are tall sawhorses as well. I hope you're enjoying the cold weather up your way. We are baking at the moment. All the best from OZ, Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Bloody Siberia here....negative 24 C with wind,feels on your skin like 38 minus. My son resides in Bondi...he will never come back. Have a good one mate!
Cheers Brad! This has to be one of the least dynamic clips I have done but the info is solid. I still use this technique when I'm out in the field. All the best mate, Ben
Hi Ben, great videos and good information. I was hoping you could provide some links to current products available on the internet for the Stihl Raker File, the Diamond hones, and the Norton Pocket Stone. If you have links to the products on Amazon even better. :) Your method seems simple and that is what I need as a beginner and want to make sure I get the tools you recommend.
+Brandon Totel No worries Brandon. Will look into it now for you. I'm sure there will be others that will be wanting the same info. I'm guessing you are in the US? I will put up a bit more of a description as well to help get you started mate.
I cant say for sure as I'm not familiar with poison ivy but cleaning the machete after work is fairly normal maintenance. I find Mineral Turpentine (paint cleaner for oil paints) and some fine steel wool to scrub the steel works best. It gets just about anything off. Methylated Spirits (alcohol fuel/cleaner) works as well, just not as good. Normal carwash soap (mixed with water) in a squirt bottle is another. That dissolves some sappy glue fairly quickly. You need to dry the steel after this step though. Water rusts machetes very quickly. As mentioned before, I have never cut Poison Ivy. Does the irritant stay active as dry sap? Maybe some disposable gloves would be needed? I Hope some of that helps Mary.
G'Day Abraham, that is a good question! I use to really focus on that when I first started out and I know a lot of people state it's importance when demonstrating sharpening. I have found counting exact strokes when hand sharpening does not make a lot of difference. Their are a lot of variables that have a bigger impact like hand pressure, cutting angles, file angles and hand dominance that have a much greater impact on the whole process than counting strokes. The long story short is that no matter what you do when you hand sharpen, you will always have a bias to one side and it makes very little difference to what you're cutting. It is far easier to follow the 'about that much' method while you're sharpening and focus on the other points. Take a good look at the edge once you are done. If you have any glaring differences, remember to put a bias on the other side next time. Don't get me wrong, their are many different methods to sharpening and if counting is working then stick with it. At the end of the day, it's sharp tools that is important. If I was jig sharpening or I had a show knife I probably would count my strokes. I hope the answer was helpful mate. All the best, Ben
what strategy do you use for removing nicks in the edge of your blade (from hitting either metal or stone)? My machete (latin style) has a few notches in the "sweet spot" a few inches from the end.
G'day Cliff and that is a darn good question. If it were anywhere else, I would just sharpen the machete as normal and eventually the chips disappear with regular filing. My stratage is to cheat with a belt grinder but that is not helpful now is it? I think the best low tech solution is to clamp the machete to a bench with the edge towards you and file into the chip. A good quality file will make short work of it. I'm sure you have stumbled across Colhane's youtube clips by now. He has a 2 part clip on modifying a machete where he clamps the machete to a bench. I would be doing this method if I did not have a slack belt grinder. Let me know If you can't find it and I will post up a link. If it is a small dent, you can peen the edge gently to get it down depending on the hardness of the steel. I would file it out if in doubt about the hardness but most proper machetes are soft enough. I hope the above helps you out mate. All the best, Ben.
Nice explanation on sharpening. I assume this will work on belt knives the same way? Aside from the reverse hold of course. Don't wanna stab your self by accident.
It sure will. Things I would keep in mind is that smaller knives are generally heat treated to be slightly harder than your average machete. Files are still harder and will cut back the edge but it's going to feel different. Secondary bevels are easy to do in the field with a small file. With most smaller knives that have a secondary bevel, just starting out with a coarse stone is fast enough to cut back any damage. From there, you just go up the grits until you're happy with the edge. It's been a while since I watched this clip but using a slack belt strop is every bit doable with a small or large edge. Thanks for the comment mate. All the best from OZ, Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia you're very welcome. And I love the website. I generally make my own blades and sheaths. But I'm pretty tempted by your work. I may be needing a sheath and shoulder carry after the holidays are finally over. Gotta let the wallet recover...lol
+Kevin Grant Thanks mate! To be honest, I was expecting all the armchair 'expert sharperners' to jump all over this as technically it is an incorrect method....but it works and beginners can get there tools sharp! Mate, I still use this method....The next video on sharpening I will be using a DIY, cheap bush strop (anyone can make) and this easily corrects the faults with the wire edge in this video. Thanks for the kind words Kev!
I think I'm messing my machete up, I can't tell what angle I'm supposed to be at, the blade looks jagged and ate up, I can't seem to get a smooth cut across the blade with the file
Sorry John, I should have seen this sooner. If you're struggling to get a smooth cut, you may have better luck clamping the machete down and using two hands on the file (google 'draw filing'). You will get a lot more control this way and a much neater looking edge. Draw filing is a very standard sharpening technique so you should find a lot of good info on it. Is the 'jagged and ate up' look just at the very edge? This could just be a huge wire edge that gets removed with finer stones and a strop. Finer cutting files are easier to control. Have you got a Mill Bastard file or are you using a double cut file? Take a look at this clip from Colhane. ua-cam.com/video/IsZb_1XfFHo/v-deo.html He goes over file sharpening a new machete in a lot more detail. Don't give up! Once you get the hang of it you will never look back. I hope some of that helps you out John. All the best from OZ, Ben
Good job with basic sharpening. The job for the tool should determine the sharpness. Chopping hard wood = less sharp, as the less steel on the bevel = greater chance of chipping the edge, as you mentioned. Also, just because a file is used to sharpen the blade, does not mean it is not sharp. I have sharpened many a machete toward the edge with a short file, and lost some blood along the way. Your method of sharpening away from the edge is safer.
100% in your corner on those points mate. I have always viewed the style of edge you put on the tool depends on three points : The intended task of the tool, The ability of the tool to take and hold that edge, and finally your ability to put that edge there. It's been a while since I have seen this clip but filing into the edge is still very doable. I find the file bites a bit deeper when filing towards the edge. This becomes more evident as your file dulls. It's just riskier and why I still file them from the spine side. All the best from OZ mate, Ben
What kind of file do you use and where can I get one? How does one tell that the angle you're holding the stone at is the right one? Sorry if these are dumb questions.
Thumbs up for the name! I always liked the Mad Max movies growing up. They are not dumb questions at all mate and I'm happy to help where I can. The files I like to use out in the bush are called chainsaw raker files or sometimes called a Flat Chainsaw file. Stihl files are my favorite but Husqvarna stock Oregon files and they are good as well. Actually I prefer the orange Husky quick release file handles on a Stihl file (I'm sure I just upset someone with that comment). A 'Smooth Cut Mill' file or a small 'Mill Bastard' file would also work but I like the rounded safe edged on chainsaw files as it allows me to draw up a card scraper edge on the spine of the machete. As far as getting the angle just perfect, don't be too worried about that. I'm sure you will come across people that have strong opinions on this topic but by far the best way to start out is to have a go, see how it performs, adjust your technique and try again. Machetes are very forgiving on beginner sharpers as they will still perform well even with a not so good sharpen. Convex edge sharpening is far easier to sharpen than it looks. You just start high on the bevel with your first stroke. each stroke after that, just increase the angle slightly until the last stroke is hitting the edge. Colouring in part of your edge with a magic marker will help greatly as you can see that each stroke is getting closer to the edge. As a beginner, It is far easier to learn on a machete that already has some sort of an edge on it. Real agricultural machetes often come with a shocking edge that requires a lot of file work and It puts people off. I have found it's well worth it as they are often far better tools than their tactical looking cousins. I hope this helps mate. Kind regards, Ben
Yeah same here. I saw Road Warrior as a kid and it changed my life. Indeed what you wrote here really really does help a lot. In fact it explains everything. Technique + what to use = the whole ball of wax. Thanks a million for being so meticulous and thorough!! I'm going to copy and paste this onto my computer for quick off line reference. Thanks a million sir! I really appreciate it.
Cheers mate, you just made my morning! Honestly I just want everyone who is interested in something to have a go. I have met a lot of people over the years that have been put off trying something new because they were told it was too difficult. I have always felt sharpening was an important but forgotten skill that just needs a little nudge in the right direction to get someone started. All the best mate. Ben
I would add bigger sharpening tools as well if it was a bench sharpening technique. This is a field sharpening method. Another point to the clip was to show that very small tools can sharpen a large edge. Thanks for the comment Sam.
That is a good question. At the end of the day, most metal cutting files that are not too coarse will work. Double cut files will hog out the steel faster (good for chip removal) but leave a lot of follow up work for the stone. Single cut files will always leave a smoother edge. I use chainsaw raker files (sometimes called a flat chainsaw file) for a lot of reasons. It's reasonably middle of the road as far coarse/medium/fine cutting speeds and that tends to match the next finer stone I commonly use. Files are no where near as good as they use to be but chainsaw companies are still putting out fairly decent files that are available all around the globe. They are pretty much the same cutting pattern and size across all the brands. They are cheap and easily packable. They always come with rounded safe (non cutting) edges that I use as a poor mans burnishing tool to sharpen the card scraper on the back of the machete. If I'm in the workshop sharpening these machetes, I almost always grab a full sized file. About a 10-12" Smooth Mill or Mill Bastard file and I use a larger, double sided axe stone. When I am backpacking in to a camp site or I'm field sharpening, it is always that little chainsaw file and small pocket stone. Hope the info was helpful mate. Kind regards, Ben
As promised, I did look into them Kevin and they are not common at all here in Australia. From everything I read, they are quite well respected. Their 18' latin is an unusually heavy chopper at 1/8' thick. Are you new to machetes or you have one of these? Hey, I was 15 once and still remember preferring my tools nice and sharp. All the best, Ben
+Aussie TruthRider Thats a good question and to be honest, Lansky is one of the very few brands of abrasives I'm not that familiar with. Having said that, Lansky have a good reputation and I doubt you can go wrong with using them. Getting a machete very sharp does not require fancy gear and I regularly use the 2 sided puck sharpeners with good results. I tend to use Norton (Bear Brand) as it's easily found here in OZ. I think you will find the Lansky puck to be on the money. One advantage to the lansky puck is that it does not have a concave centre to the stone (that I know of). If you clog the stone by sharpening a dirty or very rusty machete out in the field, you can refresh the stones surface easily. I just use some sand and water on a hard smooth rock and rub the clogged stone on the slurry. The norton stones I have are concave and are a little trickier to unclog out in the field. If you try one out, let us know your thoughts! Thanks for the question mate and I hope the answer was helpful!
Thanks for the reply, and yes the lansky puck is flat on the surfaces, Ive used it on the gerber gator but with an inferior technique to what you showed in your vid, will try you way next time, cheers
I'm glad you found the information helpful D. It's just a flat chainsaw file (one of the files used for sharpening a chain). They are easy to get from any place that sells or services chainsaws. Technically it's just a mill file but flat chainsaw files are small and also have two rounded edges. The rounded edges are very useful if you are planning on putting a card scraper edge on the spine. I hope that helps mate. All the best, Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia thank you can you make a video on how to do it with a file please but if not can you explain because I don’t have access to machinery like that just A file
I can do you one better and find you a good youtube video by Colhane. He covers file sharpening a new Tramontina machete. Personally I would not bother with a short scandi section like he does in his clip. I find if the machete is properly sharp, it makes very little practical difference. Great video from a very well known and respect outdoors man. ua-cam.com/video/IsZb_1XfFHo/v-deo.html
+Brock Marshall It is just a flat chainsaw file also known as a raker file. The size and pitch are all pretty standard across the chainsaw files I have seen. Oregon or Stihl are both easily found and are the ones I have had the best luck with. The cheaper brand files don't stay sharp for very long. Hope this is helpful mate! All the best, Ben.
OK for field sharpening, but in the shop clamp the machete to the edge of your workbench with a C-clamp and getterdone! But yes, a mill bastard file is the standard in Central America after you do the initial sharpening on a machine like an angle grinder.
Yep, bench sharpening is on the list of clips to do when I get the chance. I actually filmed it a few years ago but never edited it. You're on point, you would not be picking smaller tools to sharpen if you're in a workshop. An angle grinder with a flap disk would also be my recommendation. It gives you a rough but very functional edge for green work. Files with a machete clamped down (like Colhane's machete mod clip) will work if no power tools are available. I thought I made it a little obvious that this was a filed sharpening clip? Honestly don't remember as this was filmed years ago. All the best from OZ, Ben
Ahhh, a Paesano from across the globe! G'Day mate. My father was from Telese in the south near Naples but came out here to Australia when he was about 16. To be honest, I never really understood who he was or the Italian culture until I visited Italy when I was 20..... I get it now! Hand gestures, family and flamboyant personalities all make sense to me now.
Where can you find that norton pocket stone? Will any Norton stone work as much as the one used in the video? By the way great video brother I learned way more than expected thanks 🫡
Nice one DB. Thanks for the comments. Machetes are really forgiving when it comes to sharpening. Because you have such a long edge and more mass, you can still get them to perform even with not so great sharpening equipment. If I was being honest, most of the quality brand name stones will get the job done just fine. That little pocket hone (Norton #149 Pocket Stone) is great, but it is also a bit on the fine side (clogs up easy). The double sided axe pucks are great if you don't mind getting your fingers that close to the edge. I like Norton as they are affordable and perform well. Lansky is another good brand. I think Bahco or Fiskars has a small line of stones. Canoe stones (traditionally used for sharpening scythes) are perfect but are hard to find these days. When you want a finer crafting style edge, it's just a matter of using finer stones/hones and an abrasive strop. I hope some of the above was helpful mate. All the best from OZ, Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Oh I see, thanks for the information indeed this was helpful. It put my doubts at ease from having to buy cheaper stones thinking it wouldn’t perform as well as the more expensive/finer stones from what I seen and heard from other UA-cam videos… Your the best, again Thanks a lot 💯✊🏽I never seen anyone explain a tutorial like this with such passion 👏
@@demonback8732 Happy to help mate! I'm with you on that point. You're going to get many differing opinions on the internet. Sifting through what works for you is part of the process. I know a lot of people spruik the 'most expensive is always the best'. With basic quality sharpening gear, you can get an edge that will do almost all machete tasks. Don't get me wrong, I like the finer (and more expensive) sharpening gear for nicer tools. I just don't see the need for it when you're sharpening a general purpose machete.
Well after you file the edge, you could just add a micro bevel with 600grit Wet & Dry. Then strop that edge on a smooth piece of pine to break off the wire.
Sure, a grinder and a file will get a really sharp but wiry edge. It's wicked sharp in anything soft. If you refine that edge slightly with some finer abrasives, you will find that you will hold that edge far longer in harder materials.
Nice one Lee! I had seen this system before and was unsure if I was going to try it out. Thanks for sharing your results. I might test the system out for myself some day.
Another fine sharpening system is the Spyderco Sharpmaker.I tried it on a CRKT parang and man what at edge it put on it.It will cut paper like a chef knife.
+Kevin Solomon Paper is the best in my opinion as well. I was over having bald patches everywhere and I'm glad I swapped to something else. I now use poor quality 48gsm brown paper as my official tester. Another one I have been using lately is to not shave but to very gently rest the edge against the arm hair. If I feel it grab or pull, I know it is shaving sharp. No need for bald patches. Thanks for all the comments and kind words Kev! All the best, Ben
You're not alone Mr S! I could not free hand sharpen until I was shown a few different techniques first. I found some techniques that suited me, the tool and my sharpening equipment. If I was to recommend any system for a beginner to try, it would be the Scary Sharp method for knives. There are so many youtube clips and article on it but more importantly, just about everyone can find W&D paper and a flat piece of glass. Although I'm a big fan of free hand sharpening (it's faster and the sharpening equipment suits many different tools), I never knock jig sharpening. If it gets your tools sharp, that is all that matters.
HAHAHAHA! that comment took me by surprise mate! Actually I have been enjoying all the feedback so far. Files and machetes go hand in hand. They remove material fast and leave a wire edge that is wickedly sharp for slicing soft material. Stones and stropping remove the wire edge which gives you an edge that holds up much better in harder material. I'm glad the info is helpful mate! Kind regards, Ben
I used one for years as a surveyor in 3 states in the south and always used a file and as you said from the rear
Hello Ben,
this is just a short message to thank you very much for the info in your videos. So far, those I watched are about sharpening and I like your very practical/field approach using basic, cheap and easy to carry tools.
Swinging a machete is always fun but it's definitely funner (and less tiring) when it's sharp.
Thanks a lot again and have a nice day.
Sebastien
awesome demo thank you my blade is razer sharp now
I'm glad the info was helpful Hazy!
All the best mate,
Ben
It's kind of funny: back when I was much younger, my Grandparents lived in Pennsylvania, and there was a gun shop in town. Being a young boy running around in the mountains, I noticed upon entering this gun shop, there was a massive assortment of machetes with a sign that read "surplus". I couldn't believe that I could get such a great "weapon" for only $5.00 to $10.00 dollars, sometimes $15.00 when on the expensive side. So everytime I went with an uncle or my Grandfather to the store, I always ended up buying a machete. All different types, shapes and sizes. I had no understanding of a machete and that I had to sharpen it after I bought it. Now, in my Dad's basement, I have at least 30 military surplus machetes, and I'm seeing a lot of these things going for quite a bit of money. I haven't seen them for years, but I'm really curious to see what all I acquired all those years ago. If they're still there, I'll have to send in a few pictures of the collection, I'm really wondering what they would be worth. I'm not looking to make money off of them, if they're still there, I'd just like to see them go to a good home, one at a time.
It sounds like you're a kid in a candy shop finding all those machetes you stored! I know I would be as well.
Yes, some of them can be quite collectable, especially if they have some maker marks on them. The biggest market for these is in the USA.
I know their were quite a few Bolo's made in Japan that made their way into the US war efforts in Vietnam. They have a big 'BOLO' logo in a circle near the tip of the machete. The western military forces did use many different makers and styles though.
Collectors prefer these in as original condition as they can get but personally, tuning them up and using them is the way to go. It sounds like you have several generations worth to get through.
Would love to see some pictures when you get around to it. You can find me on FB at 'North Arm Machete Co.'
All the best MARSOC,
Ben
thats awesome mate
as most stores in aus now arent stocking them id be really keen to purchase one or two for my property.
let me know
cheers
You're right on Billy. Most did stop stocking the old surplus machetes a long while back. I guess they ran out? Most were from the Vietnam era. Maybe there are some from East Timor in the early 2000's.
I do get contacted from Army lads every now and then sending photos of old surplus machetes found in their storerooms.
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. Thanks for all of the information, right now I'm trying to work out a time that my Dad and I can both get together, as both our schedules are hectic, so I can visit and go check out the machetes. I also remembered I have a ton of camping gear down there, God only knows what I could find. I don't think it would be more than a week before we can hook up. It's definitely going to take me back to my childhood lol. I'll definitely be keeping you updated, and thanks for replying.
@@ballisticcoefficientdepend9811 Was the machete collection still there? You left us on a cliffhanger and never returned.
I don't own a sawhorse, but I could substitute a 2x4 secured to a table or bench. You really made it look easy. It's natural and even easy for any of us to obsess over the angle of the edge, but I've heard practice and you'll learn, but inexperienced people worry about messing up. Your replies to viewer questions and comments below are just as informative.
Again, thank you for the complements Frank. First up, please excuse the wait in a reply. The long bushfire season and now flood season has been keeping me busy (and awake at night). I have been slack in getting back to people.
Yes, you can use many things to support the machete while you're sharpening. Fence posts, tables or 4x2 clamped to a table all work. Straddling a fallen tree trunk also works.
You're right, inexperience holds a lot of people back but that's the beauty of learning how to sharpen with a machete. Even if you do a rough job of it, you can still get the tool to cut! They are a dream to use when properly sharpened though. That just comes with practice.
All the best from a now less smoky Australia,
Ben
I really like your technique, I live in Mexico, here machetes are really common but the people from the rural parts of the country usually sharp them in a weird form, I mean, they use files but they do it different, usually removing the original geometry and making some sort of convex grind.
I like the stroking method with the sharpening stone because it is much more relaxing and I'll use the circular motion if it's really dull.
Great video dude. I recommend buying a machete and sheath from this guy. I had a good experience.
Thank you for the kind review mate! It's always nice to hear from customers and I'm happy you had a good experience. That is what I aim for!
I hope you enjoy the new tools.
All the best mate,
Ben
Thank you for this video. First time I've seen using a marker to help track progress. What a good idea!
Thank you for the complement Elena! Honestly, I'm just happy to share the info. That magic marker trick is an oldie but a good one. I can't remember who first showed it to me but occasionally I still use it.
Im from México and your technique ara really nice it is similar to the one that a lot people used here but it really work for me, i used the machete for bushcrafting. regards.
G'day Tonk! Mate I'm the first to admit that none of what I do is original. To be honest, I was expecting a massive uproar from keyboard commandos saying it was wrong. Backwards and forwards seems more like an even split to be honest. One thing is for sure, the best advice and techniques on machete use still come from the South of America.....some of the best beer as well!
All the best mate!
Ben.
Funny. I have never used the traditional sharpening direction on my machetes. Yep, I am very wary. Back in earlier days I used a round axe finishing stone to sharpen my traditional machete (the shape you're sharpening). Thanks again. Great instructional video Ben. I am left handed also, so your perspective works for me :) . I had never crooked a machete in my arm to get the other side of the blade. I've always laid the blade across my lap, then flipped it lengthways to get to the other side. One hand using the stone, the other to steady the blade. I think I'll make a jig for home though.
It is nice to hear from someone who already uses a different method from the norm. Occasionally I still get a bit of friction from people who use the traditional method, but maybe that is a left handed thing? We are not worried about looking at things from another perspective.
Although I don't often use sharpening jigs anymore, I'm a big supporter for people using them. It does not matter how you sharpen your tools, as long as you're happy with the edge and process. Some polish their tools to a carving sharp and others will scrape up a burr on concrete....I really dislike the 'experts' making out that sharpening is a mystical and un-achievable process. That just puts people off from having a go.
Yes, that cradle method is a little different. I use it more when I'm out in the field as I can take a knee and support one side on my thigh, flip it and cradle the machete to get to the other. You can't beat a bench sharpening though! Everything is easier in the workshop.
Very informative video, MBA -- I was using the file the wrong way, cutting into it like a pocket knife and stone. No wonder the sticker bushes were laughing at me and my dull machete. Not any more, though; now the thing cuts like a light saber. Thank you.
Nice one mate! They feel a whole lot better to use when they are sharp. I'm really glad I could help someone out on the other side of the globe.
Happy chopping Slinkylabcat!
Sharpening starts at 3:34.
thank you.
Thank you.
Awesome video bro
Happy to share the info, mate!
thank you that was very helpful to me
Cheers, Mate.
I'm glad you found the information useful.
All the best,
Ben
used the traditional way, sliced part of my thumb off. worked great 10/10
Ouch!!! All work with sharp objects comes with a risk no matter how safe you are. The traditional method of filing into the edge catches a lot of people out. You're not alone buddy!
I use to use a big, stacked leather guard on the file before I started using the backwards method. The traditional way is still faster as It tends to bight into the steel more but I find the backwards method safer.
Machete Bushcraft Australia i was thinking about using some leather welding gloves, thanks for the tip
definitely sunscribed
I get where you're coming from Mad Max. I learned a long time ago with sharpening that there is never only one way to get a tool sharp (sharpening can be a hotly debated topic!). You're right that filing into the edge can remove steel more aggressively but it comes down to file and angle control. You can really hog out the steel in one spot if you're not moving the file across the whole length of the tool.
With practice ,you can file into the edge, away from the edge and also 'draw file' the edge as well. You can sharpen a concave, straight and convex profiles with the three above. Flat and convex bevels are also achievable.
I'm guessing here but I suspect one of the reasons filing into the edge became the norm all those years ago is because even a slightly dull file can be used to put an edge on a tool when filing towards it. When filing away from the edge, you really need a sharp file or a lot more force to compensate.
Actually on that note about bill hooks, as my machetes age with use, they all develop a slight concave/convex curve from the handle to the tip. I can't say that any of them have a straight section in the edge but the weed chopping and crafting projects don't suffer from that.
It's a darn good point though MM and I doubt that I mentioned it yet. Filing into the edge can remove steel lot more aggressively than filing away.
All the best mate,
Ben
It'll grow back! (Not really.)
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia An angle grinder with a flap disk works even better.
Yes, I have watched in 4 times and I'll watch it and your videos because I learn many new things each time. Thank you for your fast reply to my email question. "Take care", Jim
Cheers mate and thanks for the complement! I'm really happy to pay forward the info that was passed on to me. I'm glad you are finding the information helpful.
Kind regards,
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia One question which machete is better the bolo or latino machete because I want to own a machete one day
I'd like to see a video on how you change the blade profile from the factory grind.
Thanks for the video suggestion Tyler. One of the things I try and focus on is content that has not really been done yet...which is hard to do as YT is massive! When I grind and shape the machetes on a belt grinder, it is very similar in style to everyone else's method.
But it is a good question and I will add it to the list of clip ideas. If you're asking, chances are someone else will be interested as well.
Thanks for the suggestionTyler!
Kind regards,
Ben.
Thanks for the response! I just wish you guys shipped to Texas! however your channel sold me on the Tramontina Bolo I've just spent 2 days modifying my own. Ill send a picture when its done.
Mate definitely send over some pics! Tramontina machetes really are diamonds in the rough. Darn good machetes and (obviously) the bolo's are our favourite. NAMCo does ship overseas for some people ( that can't find anything local that they like as shipping costs from OZ can take the fun right out of it).
Cheers Tyler!
Kind regards,
Ben
This is the easiest machete sharpening video that I have seen here.
Cheers buddy! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
All the best,
Ben
Thanks for the informative video. I have never used machetes (it's not a traditional tool in this area) but lately my parents need my help at their weekend house and I have realized that the scythes (too large and hard to use on uneven ground and on thicker vegetation) and sickles (too small) they have there are not the best tools for clearing the "jungle" (high grass / chinese wisteria / wild blackberry bushes etc...) which grown there in the last year. I hope that with a bolo machete it will be a much easier job.
Yes I am located in the US, wish I could visit the Outback though. Thanks again for your help.
+Brandon Totel
Ok, lots of research done on Amazon to find some comparable sharpening equipment. Sorry for the essay but I can fwd this to the other US campers that ask the same question.
The easy ones to find are the “eze-lap diamond hones”
The big paddle pop style sharpeners I use as in field sharpening kit are these:
EZE-LAP L PAK Set SF/F/M Color Coded Diamond Hones
The blue and red (super fine & fine) are the ones I used in the advanced sharpening clip and the purple (medium) can be used as a substitute for the Norton pocket stone.
All the ezelap hones need breaking in as they cut fast and rough for awhile. Just polish the back of a chisel for about 5-10mins each.
I also like the:
EZE-LAP D5F Fine Oval Sharpening Steel, 5-Inch
Which is the same as the red (fine) hones. Easy to hold and use but not as packable as the sticks. They are nice and light though! I don’t break these in as I like the way they cut.
The green chrome stropping compound, any good brand is just fine.
Woodstock D2902 1-Pound Extra Fine Buffing Compound, Green
I use Veritas brand only because it’s the one that was in the shop at the time. The one above has decent reviews.
Sure you can buy a strop if that’s your cup of tea, honestly it’s not needed. Chances are even the pro’s damage strops from time to time. Make a simple one to suit how you want to use it from cardboard,
mdf, leather, canvas etc.
Now the not so easy to match, but that is not a problem!
The Stihl files I use and like are model #: Stihl 0814 252 3356. Just go to your local chainsaw shop and pick up their flat raker files. If it’s Stihl, they will have the ones above. Husky sell Oregon files and they are good as well. I like the orange Husky (Aussies don’t use the name Husqvarna as we can’t spell it!) quick change file handles.
Flat raker files are pretty generic as far as the size and pitch as well as the two rounded safe edges. I would not bother with dollar store files though!
Now on to the Norton Pocket stone. I can’t find an exact link to them in the states.
Here is an Aussie link to the same stone in the clip.
Stone Sharpening Norton 149c Pocket Stone Be205664
Here is one that looks similar on Amazon:
Norton Pocket Knife Abrasive Sharpener with Case, 3" x 7/8" x 3/8"
Size, Grit Medium (Pack of 5)
To be honest, at this level of sharpening a lot of quality stones can deliver similar results.
I typed in ‘axe stone’ in Amazon and there are a lot of good choices.
The first result is the Norton axe and hatchet stone. This is a coarse and fine stone in one and I use them. Lansky puck sharpeners also come highly regarded.
Canoe stones are very traditional sharpening stones for machetes.
9" 225mm Silverline Boat Shaped Combination Tools
Knives Axes Sharpening Stone
These are also a very good option for a sharpening stone although I find them a little aggressive. They are perfect for a very basic level of sharpness or chip removal. If I was to pick just one tool, these would be it. I cannot comment on the brand and quality. I don’t often use machetes with a rough edge these stones leave behind but I’m sure a lot of people would be happy with it.
Now one point I’m not sure I put across very well in the clip. The system I showed suits a machete that already has a decent primary bevel. Even light chipping and abuse can be easily taken care of with the above system.
Most new machetes come with a shocking factory sharpen and will need a fair bit of workshop time to shape the bevels properly before you sharpen them. I can’t recommend a good machete that has this already done as I’m yet to find one.
The brands that come with a decent sharpen tend to be really bad quality machetes which is frustrating for buyers...I have tested many but obviously not all of them.
That was a mouthful... Hope It helped mate. I’m
happy to clarify anything I missed!
Kind regards
Ben
+Machete Bushcraft Australia
Hopefully these links work!
Ezelap stick sharpeners
www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVS62S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451712472&sr=8-1&keywords=ezelap+l
Ezelap oval hone
www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-D5F-Sharpening-Steel-5-Inch/dp/B000UVTDX4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451713038&sr=8-1&keywords=ezelap+d5f
Stropping compound
www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D2902-1-Pound-Buffing-Compound/dp/B0000DD35C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451712322&sr=8-1&keywords=green+honing+compound
Pocket stone used in clip:
www.bunnings.com.au/stone-sharpening-norton-149c-pocket-stone-be205664_p5761972
Pocket sones Amazon
www.amazon.com/Norton-Pocket-Abrasive-Sharpener-Medium/dp/B004L2LHQY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451712212&sr=8-3&keywords=norton+pocket+stone
Canoe stone Amazon
www.amazon.com/Silverline-Shaped-Combination-Knives-Sharpening/dp/B000T9W5AA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451712260&sr=8-1&keywords=9%22+225mm+Silverline+Boat+Shaped+Combination+Tools
Be happy to post my findings on the 2 inch cotton. I'll be a few weeks before I can.
I really appreciated this video very much! I really learned exactly what I needed to know for now, as a beginner with the machete. I subscribed and hit the bell for all notifications! Thanks so much for this video, I can't wait to watch some more of your videos!
Thank you for the glowing comment mate! Honestly, I'm just happy to pay the information forward. Old timers were happy to share it with me, so I get to pass it on.
I hope you find it all helpful mate.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
excellent information and well presented. Thanks
Thank you Andrew! That was one of the first ones we filmed and a lot has changed that's for sure. The sharpening technique still holds it's own but the filming style is different now.
Cheers mate.
All the best,
Ben
I use a bolo for yard upkeep, this was amazing. Love from Canada
Cheers mate! Glad it was helpful.
wow this is how I always sharpened my blade even the blade on the arm great video
+Kevin Solomon
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does it backwards. It is just so much easier this way. The file/stone is always in your dominant hand so beginners find it safer as well.
good straight forward video thanks, I will look forward to seeing more asap. Regards nick
+nick freeman
Nice one Nick! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you found it straight forward! It's challenging sharing information sometimes as you don't know if you have given enough so it can be understood!
Cheers Ben!
So you guys just walk around with machete in Australia Freaking awesome
Hey Ben...
You've totally changed my perspective on machetes old mate. I had no idea that you could do so much with a machete...ignorance is bliss,as they say mate.
Thankyou for opening up my eyes to a new aspect of blades.
Cheers mate,
Mark Richards.
G'Day Mark and thanks for the comment. I'm glad I helped inspire a change of ideas. They really are a multi purpose tool and still my favourite camp item. Happy to share the info that was given to me.
All the best mate,
Ben
My machete is too heavy, need to get a thinner one for brush and vines.
That is where the agricultural style machetes shine. Thin and sharp makes for easy work.
All the best,
Ben
Nice! Just found your channel and already subscribed! I'm a big fan of "all-purpose" machetes in the bush, mainly because I live in Brazil hehe
G'day Julio and thanks for the kind words and sub! Coming from a Brazilian, that speaks volumes. The rest of the world is starting to remember how useful machetes are in the bush. They have long been a favorite tool for me that's for sure and will always be the first tool I grab for a trip.
Tramontina make a fantastic machete! They are very rough from the factory but once tuned up, I have found they outperform any other brand ( including the expensive ones and I have tested a lot of them) in the market.
Congrats on hosting Olympics! I remember when we had it here in Australia in 2000. Their was a great vibe all around the country at the time and It did a lot for businesses that rely on tourists.
Both Brazil and Australia share the same Olympic colours so don't forget to cheer us on as well Julio!
Kind regards from Australia,
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia Yeah... People often complain because they think they just need an axe and a big knife, but that's only if you live someplace where it's colder and doesn't have ground-covering plants and vines.
Thanks, Ben! I also really like the Tramontinas! I tested one or two other (and more expensive) brands from here, but they were centered too much on thickness for chopping and made the machetes too bulky for carrying and using inside a forest. I still need to learn how to make a good reshaped grind (and also need to gather some more tools hehe).
On the Olympics, I hope it goes well. The brazilian social and political conjuncture isn't very good at the moment, but there may still be a chance of this turning out to be a good event! I remember when you hosted the Olympics! It was really great and the preparations were really beautiful! Congrats too! And I'll certainly cheer both countries!
With regards from Brazil,
Julio
Greetings , found you via your Instructables entry.Keep up the good work. pax
+puffinlittle
Cheers mate! I'm glad you like the content!
Thank you for the great video! How can I make sure my edge is even and not curling to the one side?
I'm guessing here but are you talking about the little rough ribbon of steel on the very edge (called a wire edge)?
If so, you can some what straighten it with a steel, and that edge is wicked sharp for soft green material (like in a veggie garden). If you're chopping into anything woody, it's best to remove this wire edge with stropping. Abrasive strops are the quickest but you can just use raw leather, denim, cardboard etc.
I hope that helps, Doc.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia thank you for the detailed answer! I'm new to all this. I did the file and the pocket stone steps like in the video. But I don't know if I sharpened evenly on both sides. Some say they can tell by looking if the edge is curled more towards one side. So if I strop it after these steps it should become even? I also have a butcher's steel which from what I gather also straightens the edge but does not sharpen.
@@DocHoliday596 Yes, the butchers steel does not sharpen, it straightens the tiny flexible wire edge (mostly puts it back on centre).
Wire edges are very useful for cutting soft material but they do tend to roll over easily. The butchers steel will partly clean the gunk, straighten the wire again and somewhat burnish the edge.
When you strop, you're trying to remove that flexible wire, off the edge.
You can do this on a strop without an abrasive compound. Essentially, you're just bending the wire ribbon back and forth until it breaks off.
Abrasive compounds are faster and will also refine the edge a little.
Keep in mind, if you're working on a machete, these are really forgiving to use when they are not super sharp. It's a beginner friendly tool to learn the basics of sharpening.
Sharpen the best you can, then go out and test it. Once you get the hang of it on a machete, stepping up to basic kitchen knives and pocket knives is the next step. These benefit from better stones and a little more practice.... not much, though.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Thank you so much! I have a pocket stone just like the one in the video. Will sharpening with that be sufficient if I want to cut some thicker material? Because I don't really have a strop or know how to use one. Although I do have to learn eventually.
@@DocHoliday596 Mate, it will work just fine.
If you have a big wire edge and cut something heavy, chances are it will break it off for you. The machete will feel dull sooner but a light touch up with the stone will bring that edge back faster than before.
Use the sharpening equipment you have for now. Once you get the hang of it with those tools, you will end up doing what the rest of us have done, and that is exploring better equipment. Maybe to add a littler more to that, I have seen locals strike their machetes on concrete to bring up a rough edge for cutting. Without a doubt, you will be getting a better edge with a file and stone than they would be on a road surface.
For now, the kit you have will get it done.
If you're not interested in stropping, you can try and add a few degrees to the last strokes with that pocket stone. That might be enough to work off that wire edge.
As far as strops go, my favorite is just a smooth dress piece of construction pine.
I have been meaning to shoot a clip of that for years now but never got around to doing that.
Just found your channel, have liked and subscribed. ATB from the Staffordshire Moorlands in the UK.
Cheers Moorvale55 and thanks for the like and sub! I never really felt like I had a history until I spent a little time in the countryside over there. If anyone from the UK wants to know what Australians are like, we still have a strong link to you all . Sydney people are very much like Londoners, and out in the rural areas and small towns, the people are very similar to the countryside in the UK.
Actually, I hear that a lot of the younger crowd in the UK still watch 'Home And Away' but you should not forget Australians all grew up watching the BBC. A lot of our kids shows are all from the UK.
All the best mate!
Ben
great video mate!!, have a new suscriber from Argentina!
Champion mate! It's nice to get a subscriber from south of the border. Y'all know machetes far better than any of us westerners.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Nice job! And with respect to your "I'll try not to um and ah too much" comment, you did a really nice job with the presentation!
Thanks for the complement Larry B! I did a fair bit of research when I started on how to present clearly (hey, I needed help!) and everything was pointing towards slow speech.. I found it really tough and it just made me um a whole lot more. I still um and ah far too much but talking at my normal pace now fixed a lot of that.
Awesome video mate thanks for sharing just added my own video Goanna Bushcraft and Leatherwork's about my products. One day I hope to buy one of your machetes for myself and then I'm going to make a sheath that will. E the pinnacle of sheaths for machetes. Thanks for the knowledge and will use your methods for my larger knives
Thanks for the kind words mate! I must admit, it's nice to stumble across a fellow Aussie UA-camr. I just checked out your channel. Lovely leather work. Looking fwd to seeing more of your clips.
A lot of the sharpening tips translate to bigger knives/axes as that's what I learned on when I was younger. Actually, you would already be comfortable stropping with your leather craft tools. I still really like the Tandy white stropping compound for carbon steel but it's very fine and slow cutting. I use it after the green chrome compound.
Great vid, thanks. I like how you go over different sharpening methods, I'm going to hit my new Tramontina from behind from now on... um, that didn't sound good, but you know what I mean ;). Regards from the U.S.
hahahaha! I love the comments section of this channel! Even though I'm quite comfortable sharpening tools, I still stand by this method for a lot of reasons but the most important is safety even for beginners. I always mention that there are still many different way to keep your tools sharp. This is just one way.
All the best Johnny the Dane,
Ben
wait til your channel grows and you think, "shneikies, I can't keep up w/ all these crazy yahoo comments, ;)" More power to ya! ;)
Good stuff mate 👍🏾
Thanks mate! Cheers from Brazil!!!
Cheers Mate! Hey the whole world is watching you guys at the moment! Congrats on a great Olympics.
The best way to get a machete sharp is using it! As you use it it will start to dull then you have to sharpen it over and over again, you keep using it then resharpen again. I've seen some old machetes down here in mexico razor sharp and light weight because of so much use the metal is shaven from the blade making it lighter, better then any new or expensive brand machete!
Nail on the head mate. It's actually the reason I feel machetes are a great tool to use while you're learning how to sharpen. They are very forgiving to use even if your sharpening techniques is not perfect.
I'm also a fan of the broken in and well used machetes. The better your cutting technique gets, the more you find yourself preferring the swiftness you get from lighter and thinner machetes.
That was a great comment.
I had a theory about "wire edges" I was making a knife and I noticed it before I did a microbevel so it would be less likely to roll. I call it a tin foil edge. A fine edge is good but isn't needed on a machete because you might be chopping with one.
I think it is a much better description than calling it a 'wire edge'. I think that confuses a lot of people. It is much more like a ragged ribbon. Calling it a tin foil ribbon would have made a lot more sense. One of the advantages of hand sharpening tools is that you can easily adjust the edge angles. Putting a thinner bias closer to the handle and thicker at the chopping sweet spot is a great combo.
I don't knock jig sharpening though as what ever gets your tools sharp it what matters. I'm yet to see anyone carry a bench sharpening jig into the field though.
Now i can sharpen those blunt machetes that were given to me!
+Gordon Cornelius Maximus
Nice one mate! Hope the system help you out.
love the tips!
Love the name! Very creative SM.
Hello, I'm very new to sharpening machetes. Can you tell me what would happen if you went from tip to hilt, instead of hilt to tip, and why you sharpen in that direction? Thanks!
Great demonstration. Looks simple and effective..I'll be giving it a go next time I sharpen my machete. What brand bolo machete is that in the video?
Machete Bushcraft Australia That was very informative, may I ask you is there a brand or grade of file I can buy and use here in Australia please.
Happy to help mate. For the smaller field sharpening files (flat chainsaw file) I like the Stihl or Oregon branded ones. You can find them in the Stihl or Husqvarna stores. I like flat chainsaw files as they have two rounded safe edges which have other uses. Use can use the smooth edges as both a knife steel and as a tool to sharpen a card scraper edge.
If you're sharpening in the workshop, you can't beat a bigger file. Bahco or Nicholson still make decent files that are affordable. You are looking for a 10' Mill Bastard file. They are single cut and are very good for sharpening a lot of agricultural tools.
There are other good brands to look out for other than the above but they are not so easy to find in the average stores.
I would skip on the HART branded ones or any of the other cheaper brands. They are not worth it in my opinion. If you're new to file sharpening, you will probably just think the process is really difficult and not realise that it might be the subpar file.
Hope that helps!
All the best,
Ben
Oh I should add, I have always had a soft spot for our native Ibis. I can't help but feel they get a bad wrap. I find them to be very graceful and beautiful birds... not the 'bin chickens' we often name them to be.
I'm currently sharpening a 22" Barteaux & Sons machete I inherited and trying to figure out what the proper technique is. You mention the concave bevel in the video, am I correct in assuming that the bevel remains concave after sharpening? Also, is the angle of the bevel/edge along the blade the same as along the tip of the machete?
Can you please send me a link or a model # to the stihl file that you use? I am unable to fine them online. Thank you!!
G'Day Sarah. I just had a look online any you're right, they make it hard to find. The Stihl branded ones are called 'stihl flat file 150mm 0814252 3000' and here is a link to the Australian Stihl website
www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Accessories/Chainsaw-Accessories/21567-1649/Flat-File-with-case.aspx
I could not find them on Amazon in the US but they have the Oregon ones.
I would not get too hung up on getting the same brand. Oregon (Husquvarna sell oregon files) are also good but there are other brands out there.
Actually, if you're after the best, Pferd make quality files but they are hard to find here in Australia so I never bothered.
www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Files-Filing-Accessories/Depth-Gauge-Raker-Files/Pferd-Raker-Files/Pferd-6-Depth-Gauge-Raker-Files-box-of-10.axd
That is a link to a US website.
All the flat raker files I have seen come with two rounded safe edges if you're looking at using them for the card scraper. I also prefer chainsaw files as they generally have decent quality quick release handles so they are easier to pack. Drop buy a decent chainsaw shop and ask which ones they recommend.
I hope that was helpful!
Kind regards Ben
Can you do this with a stone from the ground?
Does this method also apply for Latin machetes like my tramontina
I tried to order one of super special bolo machetes from your website, but it appears you only sell & ship in Australia. As I live in the U.S. (Texas) I could not complete my order. Did I miss something, do you sell & ship outside Australia?
Sorry, mate. I can only ship within Australia.
It's not you guys. It's an insurance issue.
I did ship internationally many years ago but I had to pull the pin on that.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Great video. Is there an Australian made machete I can buy? They all seem to be made in China and prefer locally made if possible. I'm in New Zealand.
Thanks for the complement mate!
There are no Australian machete makers that I know of. I use to make them a long time ago but It's impossible to make a profit from the process when your doing it on a small scale. Heat treating very long and thin steel is challenging.
Most of the proper thin machetes are still made in South America and are quality tools for the price. Tramontina is my pick but their are other good ones. Condor is great if you want something a little more finished.
If you like the bushknife style machetes, have you come across Svord yet? It's a very well respected New Zealand brand and they make darn nice knives. I noticed they did the English style Golok. That would be hard to beat in my opinion.
I hope that was helpful R2R.
All the best mate,
Ben
Where can someone buy canvas in the width you use in your videos? I can't find it anywhere.
G'day James. It a little difficult to find now as everything is going synthetic but I stumbled across some last week. It is called 'cotton heading tape' and I found it in Spotlight (Australian chain) but online line craft stores that specialise in fabrics etc should have some.
Did you catch the video I did on 'Anyone can make a strop'?
Some of the synthetic tapes actually worked very well as a strop. The one in particular that I liked was a ribbon/tape from a fancy disposable brown paper bags handle. It's super light weight, low stretch and will hold up to wet weather for much longer.
I hope this was helpful James!
Kind regards,
Ben.
I saw your answer regarding the file you use but would like to know the grit of the stone you finished with, Thanks. Really enjoy your videos.
Unfortunately they don't always list the grit sizes on traditional style sharpening stones. If it's that little black/dark grey stone, it feels like it is in the 400-600grit range. if it's the double sided axe puck, that feels like a 240/400grit stone.
For machete use, the mill file/axe puck combo is going to get a machete sharp enough for 95% of tasks. I would only bother with the finer stones if you're planning on carving and crafting dry and hard timbers... Most westerners would usually carry a small crafting knife for that purpose though.
I hope that helps Walter.
All the best,
Ben
Very well done...straight forward...easy to copy. The only thing that scares me? The way one has to sit on that sawhorse. On the other hand, as a Canadian, I should find some hokey cup protector somewhere in our house. LOL
Hey Patrick, I got a good laugh out of that mate! They are tall sawhorses as well. I hope you're enjoying the cold weather up your way. We are baking at the moment.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Bloody Siberia here....negative 24 C with wind,feels on your skin like 38 minus. My son resides in Bondi...he will never come back. Have a good one mate!
Thanks, very helpful.
Cheers Brad! This has to be one of the least dynamic clips I have done but the info is solid. I still use this technique when I'm out in the field.
All the best mate,
Ben
Great Video,
+Bionic Rob
Thanks Bionic Rob!
Hi Ben, great videos and good information. I was hoping you could provide some links to current products available on the internet for the Stihl Raker File, the Diamond hones, and the Norton Pocket Stone. If you have links to the products on Amazon even better. :) Your method seems simple and that is what I need as a beginner and want to make sure I get the tools you recommend.
+Brandon Totel
No worries Brandon. Will look into it now for you. I'm sure there will be others that will be wanting the same info. I'm guessing you are in the US? I will put up a bit more of a description as well to help get you started mate.
Great tips. Thanks heaps
+daveoutdoorsnz glad it was helpful mate! Happy to share the info.
what do you recommend for getting unwanted poisons and unwanted oils off of the machete as i am plowing through a lot of poison ivy etc
thank you
I cant say for sure as I'm not familiar with poison ivy but cleaning the machete after work is fairly normal maintenance.
I find Mineral Turpentine (paint cleaner for oil paints) and some fine steel wool to scrub the steel works best. It gets just about anything off. Methylated Spirits (alcohol fuel/cleaner) works as well, just not as good. Normal carwash soap (mixed with water) in a squirt bottle is another. That dissolves some sappy glue fairly quickly. You need to dry the steel after this step though. Water rusts machetes very quickly.
As mentioned before, I have never cut Poison Ivy. Does the irritant stay active as dry sap? Maybe some disposable gloves would be needed?
I Hope some of that helps Mary.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia thank you!
Thanks man..i really needed it today:-)
Mate I'm glad you found the info helpful! Someone was kind enough to hand it to me. I'm just paying the information forward.
All the best Kese,
Ben
Do you count how many times you sharpen each side to make sure it's even?
G'Day Abraham, that is a good question!
I use to really focus on that when I first started out and I know a lot of people state it's importance when demonstrating sharpening. I have found counting exact strokes when hand sharpening does not make a lot of difference. Their are a lot of variables that have a bigger impact like hand pressure, cutting angles, file angles and hand dominance that have a much greater impact on the whole process than counting strokes.
The long story short is that no matter what you do when you hand sharpen, you will always have a bias to one side and it makes very little difference to what you're cutting.
It is far easier to follow the 'about that much' method while you're sharpening and focus on the other points. Take a good look at the edge once you are done. If you have any glaring differences, remember to put a bias on the other side next time.
Don't get me wrong, their are many different methods to sharpening and if counting is working then stick with it. At the end of the day, it's sharp tools that is important.
If I was jig sharpening or I had a show knife I probably would count my strokes.
I hope the answer was helpful mate.
All the best,
Ben
Awesome, thanks for the info Ben.
No worries Mate. I'm really happy to share the info!
All the best,
Ben
cool video mate..
Thanks the vid lad now i start pracice 😁👍
Was that Tramontina Bolo 14"?
It sure is. They are still my favorite machete.
what strategy do you use for removing nicks in the edge of your blade (from hitting either metal or stone)? My machete (latin style) has a few notches in the "sweet spot" a few inches from the end.
G'day Cliff and that is a darn good question. If it were anywhere else, I would just sharpen the machete as normal and eventually the chips disappear with regular filing. My stratage is to cheat with a belt grinder but that is not helpful now is it? I think the best low tech solution is to clamp the machete to a bench with the edge towards you and file into the chip. A good quality file will make short work of it.
I'm sure you have stumbled across Colhane's youtube clips by now. He has a 2 part clip on modifying a machete where he clamps the machete to a bench. I would be doing this method if I did not have a slack belt grinder. Let me know If you can't find it and I will post up a link.
If it is a small dent, you can peen the edge gently to get it down depending on the hardness of the steel. I would file it out if in doubt about the hardness but most proper machetes are soft enough.
I hope the above helps you out mate.
All the best,
Ben.
What kinda of file and pocket stone do I get?
Nice explanation on sharpening. I assume this will work on belt knives the same way? Aside from the reverse hold of course. Don't wanna stab your self by accident.
It sure will. Things I would keep in mind is that smaller knives are generally heat treated to be slightly harder than your average machete. Files are still harder and will cut back the edge but it's going to feel different. Secondary bevels are easy to do in the field with a small file.
With most smaller knives that have a secondary bevel, just starting out with a coarse stone is fast enough to cut back any damage.
From there, you just go up the grits until you're happy with the edge.
It's been a while since I watched this clip but using a slack belt strop is every bit doable with a small or large edge.
Thanks for the comment mate.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia you're very welcome. And I love the website. I generally make my own blades and sheaths. But I'm pretty tempted by your work. I may be needing a sheath and shoulder carry after the holidays are finally over. Gotta let the wallet recover...lol
Great job
+Kevin Grant Cheers, Thanks Kevin!
No Thanks you for your time making great Video.
+Kevin Grant
Thanks mate! To be honest, I was expecting all the armchair 'expert sharperners' to jump all over this as technically it is an incorrect method....but it works and beginners can get there tools sharp! Mate, I still use this method....The next video on sharpening I will be using a DIY, cheap bush strop (anyone can make) and this easily corrects the faults with the wire edge in this video.
Thanks for the kind words Kev!
I think I'm messing my machete up, I can't tell what angle I'm supposed to be at, the blade looks jagged and ate up, I can't seem to get a smooth cut across the blade with the file
Sorry John, I should have seen this sooner. If you're struggling to get a smooth cut, you may have better luck clamping the machete down and using two hands on the file (google 'draw filing'). You will get a lot more control this way and a much neater looking edge. Draw filing is a very standard sharpening technique so you should find a lot of good info on it.
Is the 'jagged and ate up' look just at the very edge? This could just be a huge wire edge that gets removed with finer stones and a strop. Finer cutting files are easier to control. Have you got a Mill Bastard file or are you using a double cut file?
Take a look at this clip from Colhane. ua-cam.com/video/IsZb_1XfFHo/v-deo.html
He goes over file sharpening a new machete in a lot more detail.
Don't give up! Once you get the hang of it you will never look back.
I hope some of that helps you out John.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Good job with basic sharpening. The job for the tool should determine the sharpness. Chopping hard wood = less sharp, as the less steel on the bevel = greater chance of chipping the edge, as you mentioned. Also, just because a file is used to sharpen the blade, does not mean it is not sharp. I have sharpened many a machete toward the edge with a short file, and lost some blood along the way. Your method of sharpening away from the edge is safer.
100% in your corner on those points mate. I have always viewed the style of edge you put on the tool depends on three points : The intended task of the tool, The ability of the tool to take and hold that edge, and finally your ability to put that edge there.
It's been a while since I have seen this clip but filing into the edge is still very doable. I find the file bites a bit deeper when filing towards the edge. This becomes more evident as your file dulls. It's just riskier and why I still file them from the spine side.
All the best from OZ mate,
Ben
Great video!
+Odracir R
Thanks Mate! I hope the info was helpful.
Very helpful I just bought a machete to be used a lot and this helped me big time.
+Odracir R
Mate I really like hearing that the info is useful. Glad I could help!
What machete did you pickup?
What kind of file do you use and where can I get one? How does one tell that the angle you're holding the stone at is the right one? Sorry if these are dumb questions.
Thumbs up for the name! I always liked the Mad Max movies growing up. They are not dumb questions at all mate and I'm happy to help where I can.
The files I like to use out in the bush are called chainsaw raker files or sometimes called a Flat Chainsaw file. Stihl files are my favorite but Husqvarna stock Oregon files and they are good as well. Actually I prefer the orange Husky quick release file handles on a Stihl file (I'm sure I just upset someone with that comment).
A 'Smooth Cut Mill' file or a small 'Mill Bastard' file would also work but I like the rounded safe edged on chainsaw files as it allows me to draw up a card scraper edge on the spine of the machete.
As far as getting the angle just perfect, don't be too worried about that. I'm sure you will come across people that have strong opinions on this topic but by far the best way to start out is to have a go, see how it performs, adjust your technique and try again. Machetes are very forgiving on beginner sharpers as they will still perform well even with a not so good sharpen.
Convex edge sharpening is far easier to sharpen than it looks. You just start high on the bevel with your first stroke. each stroke after that, just increase the angle slightly until the last stroke is hitting the edge.
Colouring in part of your edge with a magic marker will help greatly as you can see that each stroke is getting closer to the edge.
As a beginner, It is far easier to learn on a machete that already has some sort of an edge on it. Real agricultural machetes often come with a shocking edge that requires a lot of file work and It puts people off. I have found it's well worth it as they are often far better tools than their tactical looking cousins.
I hope this helps mate.
Kind regards,
Ben
Yeah same here. I saw Road Warrior as a kid and it changed my life. Indeed what you wrote here really really does help a lot. In fact it explains everything. Technique + what to use = the whole ball of wax. Thanks a million for being so meticulous and thorough!! I'm going to copy and paste this onto my computer for quick off line reference. Thanks a million sir! I really appreciate it.
Cheers mate, you just made my morning! Honestly I just want everyone who is interested in something to have a go. I have met a lot of people over the years that have been put off trying something new because they were told it was too difficult. I have always felt sharpening was an important but forgotten skill that just needs a little nudge in the right direction to get someone started.
All the best mate.
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia hey bud what's the link to ur shop?
Okay method for in the field. Put it in a vise for better control.
I would add bigger sharpening tools as well if it was a bench sharpening technique. This is a field sharpening method. Another point to the clip was to show that very small tools can sharpen a large edge. Thanks for the comment Sam.
Anything special about that file or is it just a typical file?
That is a good question. At the end of the day, most metal cutting files that are not too coarse will work. Double cut files will hog out the steel faster (good for chip removal) but leave a lot of follow up work for the stone. Single cut files will always leave a smoother edge.
I use chainsaw raker files (sometimes called a flat chainsaw file) for a lot of reasons.
It's reasonably middle of the road as far coarse/medium/fine cutting speeds and that tends to match the next finer stone I commonly use.
Files are no where near as good as they use to be but chainsaw companies are still putting out fairly decent files that are available all around the globe.
They are pretty much the same cutting pattern and size across all the brands.
They are cheap and easily packable.
They always come with rounded safe (non cutting) edges that I use as a poor mans burnishing tool to sharpen the card scraper on the back of the machete.
If I'm in the workshop sharpening these machetes, I almost always grab a full sized file. About a 10-12" Smooth Mill or Mill Bastard file and I use a larger, double sided axe stone.
When I am backpacking in to a camp site or I'm field sharpening, it is always that little chainsaw file and small pocket stone.
Hope the info was helpful mate.
Kind regards,
Ben
Can you do a review on a Gavilien de incolma machete?
Happy to Kevin. Incolma sounds familiar but I have not come across that brand. I will have a look to see if some are in OZ.
All the best,
Ben.
Wow, thank you so much!!! I'm a 15 year old farm boy who loves anything with a sharp edge. Thanks mate!!!
As promised, I did look into them Kevin and they are not common at all here in Australia. From everything I read, they are quite well respected. Their 18' latin is an unusually heavy chopper at 1/8' thick. Are you new to machetes or you have one of these? Hey, I was 15 once and still remember preferring my tools nice and sharp.
All the best,
Ben
Wow man I really do appreciate the effort and time you put into this. No worry's mate have a good one!!!
Very informative, what do you think of the lansky puck for sharpening machetes?
+Aussie TruthRider
Thats a good question and to be honest, Lansky is one of the very few brands of abrasives I'm not that familiar with. Having said that, Lansky have a good reputation and I doubt you can go wrong with using them. Getting a machete very sharp does not require fancy gear and I regularly use the 2 sided puck sharpeners with good results.
I tend to use Norton (Bear Brand) as it's easily found here in OZ. I think you will find the Lansky puck to be on the money. One advantage to the lansky puck is that it does not have a concave centre to the stone (that I know of). If you clog the stone by sharpening a dirty or very rusty machete out in the field, you can refresh the stones surface easily. I just use some sand and water on a hard smooth rock and rub the clogged stone on the slurry. The norton stones I have are concave and are a little trickier to unclog out in the field.
If you try one out, let us know your thoughts!
Thanks for the question mate and I hope the answer was helpful!
Thanks for the reply, and yes the lansky puck is flat on the surfaces, Ive used it on the gerber gator but with an inferior technique to what you showed in your vid, will try you way next time, cheers
Try draw file it gives a finer
What kind of file do you you?
I meant, what kind of file do you use? Thanks. Great tutorial.
I'm glad you found the information helpful D. It's just a flat chainsaw file (one of the files used for sharpening a chain). They are easy to get from any place that sells or services chainsaws. Technically it's just a mill file but flat chainsaw files are small and also have two rounded edges. The rounded edges are very useful if you are planning on putting a card scraper edge on the spine.
I hope that helps mate.
All the best,
Ben
tq for the infos
You're welcome Tom. Thanks for the comment.
How do you regrind a machete bevel
I use a slack belt grinder. You can cut one in by hand with files or if you're confident, you can use a flap disk on a little angle grinder.
Machete Bushcraft Australia thank you can you make a video on how to do it with a file please but if not can you explain because I don’t have access to machinery like that just A file
I can do you one better and find you a good youtube video by Colhane.
He covers file sharpening a new Tramontina machete.
Personally I would not bother with a short scandi section like he does in his clip. I find if the machete is properly sharp, it makes very little practical difference.
Great video from a very well known and respect outdoors man.
ua-cam.com/video/IsZb_1XfFHo/v-deo.html
Machete Bushcraft Australia thank you👍
what size / grit is that file?
+Brock Marshall It is just a flat chainsaw file also known as a raker file. The size and pitch are all pretty standard across the chainsaw files I have seen. Oregon or Stihl are both easily found and are the ones I have had the best luck with. The cheaper brand files don't stay sharp for very long. Hope this is helpful mate! All the best, Ben.
Machete Bushcraft Australia cheers mate
Am I the only one who heard him say "edge" and "bevel". Had to google whether or not they're the same thing, and still can't figure it out?
Say Heah Ben, Cheers, Thanx You.,,. p
great!
+Jorge H. Farfán nice one Jorge! You guys practically invented the modern machete and I should be thanking you!
+Machete Bushcraft Australia You are taking this technics to a higher level ! congrats!
OK for field sharpening, but in the shop clamp the machete to the edge of your workbench with a C-clamp and getterdone!
But yes, a mill bastard file is the standard in Central America after you do the initial sharpening on a machine like an angle grinder.
Yep, bench sharpening is on the list of clips to do when I get the chance. I actually filmed it a few years ago but never edited it. You're on point, you would not be picking smaller tools to sharpen if you're in a workshop. An angle grinder with a flap disk would also be my recommendation. It gives you a rough but very functional edge for green work. Files with a machete clamped down (like Colhane's machete mod clip) will work if no power tools are available.
I thought I made it a little obvious that this was a filed sharpening clip? Honestly don't remember as this was filmed years ago.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Your name is Bendenoughforyou???
Ya nailed it brother! ;)
Hello!
another D'Onofrio!
Ahhh, a Paesano from across the globe! G'Day mate. My father was from Telese in the south near Naples but came out here to Australia when he was about 16. To be honest, I never really understood who he was or the Italian culture until I visited Italy when I was 20..... I get it now! Hand gestures, family and flamboyant personalities all make sense to me now.
Where can you find that norton pocket stone? Will any Norton stone work as much as the one used in the video? By the way great video brother I learned way more than expected thanks 🫡
Nice one DB. Thanks for the comments.
Machetes are really forgiving when it comes to sharpening. Because you have such a long edge and more mass, you can still get them to perform even with not so great sharpening equipment.
If I was being honest, most of the quality brand name stones will get the job done just fine. That little pocket hone (Norton #149 Pocket Stone) is great, but it is also a bit on the fine side (clogs up easy). The double sided axe pucks are great if you don't mind getting your fingers that close to the edge.
I like Norton as they are affordable and perform well. Lansky is another good brand. I think Bahco or Fiskars has a small line of stones.
Canoe stones (traditionally used for sharpening scythes) are perfect but are hard to find these days.
When you want a finer crafting style edge, it's just a matter of using finer stones/hones and an abrasive strop.
I hope some of the above was helpful mate.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Oh I see, thanks for the information indeed this was helpful. It put my doubts at ease from having to buy cheaper stones thinking it wouldn’t perform as well as the more expensive/finer stones from what I seen and heard from other UA-cam videos… Your the best, again Thanks a lot 💯✊🏽I never seen anyone explain a tutorial like this with such passion 👏
@@demonback8732 Happy to help mate!
I'm with you on that point. You're going to get many differing opinions on the internet. Sifting through what works for you is part of the process. I know a lot of people spruik the 'most expensive is always the best'. With basic quality sharpening gear, you can get an edge that will do almost all machete tasks. Don't get me wrong, I like the finer (and more expensive) sharpening gear for nicer tools. I just don't see the need for it when you're sharpening a general purpose machete.
Subbed
Champion! Thanks for the support mate!
What if u font have a stone
Well after you file the edge, you could just add a micro bevel with 600grit Wet & Dry. Then strop that edge on a smooth piece of pine to break off the wire.
i prefer grinder and metal file the blade get SSS(super scary sharp)
Sure, a grinder and a file will get a really sharp but wiry edge. It's wicked sharp in anything soft. If you refine that edge slightly with some finer abrasives, you will find that you will hold that edge far longer in harder materials.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia I use Waterstones to polish the edge of my machetes after filing then clean them with Alcohol to prefer rust on them
I got a lot better results using a Smith's Diamond Tri Hone Sharpening System.
Nice one Lee! I had seen this system before and was unsure if I was going to try it out. Thanks for sharing your results. I might test the system out for myself some day.
Another fine sharpening system is the Spyderco Sharpmaker.I tried it on a CRKT parang and man what at edge it put on it.It will cut paper like a chef knife.
As a beginner I've got to say. I think I found myself thinking "why?" Or "WHAT IS THAT WORD?!?!" Like every 30 seconds in this video. Lol
Wire-edge? Strop?? Those are just the ones I'm remembering at the end. Lol
oh I test my blade with paper to make sure I didn't miss a spot.
+Kevin Solomon
Paper is the best in my opinion as well. I was over having bald patches everywhere and I'm glad I swapped to something else. I now use poor quality 48gsm brown paper as my official tester. Another one I have been using lately is to not shave but to very gently rest the edge against the arm hair. If I feel it grab or pull, I know it is shaving sharp. No need for bald patches.
Thanks for all the comments and kind words Kev!
All the best,
Ben
I can't freehand sharpen anything.
You're not alone Mr S! I could not free hand sharpen until I was shown a few different techniques first. I found some techniques that suited me, the tool and my sharpening equipment.
If I was to recommend any system for a beginner to try, it would be the Scary Sharp method for knives. There are so many youtube clips and article on it but more importantly, just about everyone can find W&D paper and a flat piece of glass.
Although I'm a big fan of free hand sharpening (it's faster and the sharpening equipment suits many different tools), I never knock jig sharpening. If it gets your tools sharp, that is all that matters.
this is fucking awesome i would of never had thought of using a metal filer
HAHAHAHA! that comment took me by surprise mate! Actually I have been enjoying all the feedback so far.
Files and machetes go hand in hand. They remove material fast and leave a wire edge that is wickedly sharp for slicing soft material. Stones and stropping remove the wire edge which gives you an edge that holds up much better in harder material.
I'm glad the info is helpful mate!
Kind regards,
Ben
12 am in 5 he first minute 😀
lol at the ummms and ahhhhhs
Some habits die hard mate!