Thanks Mike Just sitting here trying to figure out how to get the petcock to shut off completely and you’ve just answered my question. Thanks again and as usual, good stuff
Hi Mike, Max here from Perth Western Australia. Thank you for your exceptional videos and insights into proper HD maintenance. Can you show how to set up and internal throttle cable on an early Pan (Bars to Carb)? Keep up the awesome work, mate.
Hi Mike. I have the same tank but there is no petcock hole in the top, just the single hole in the bottom. The fuel shut-off valve was in the fuel line. To my knowledge, the set of tanks are original and to the WLA pattern. I've been told they could be earlier - any ideas?
Couldn't say without looking at them and then probably looking them up. Is part of one tank for oil? The "How To Restore Your Harley" book will probably solve the question for you.
good morin got ? got 85 flhtc took tank off to clean but seems like someone tried sealing it not sure when but the liner is peeling off inside tank any sugetion on how to get old liner out any help
I honestly don't know. That liner was probably put in by a previous owner. Hard to say exactly what they used. The choices aren't really good, unless you're going to paint it anyway. Having a radiator shop hot tank it for you could work, obviously destroying your paint. Then you'll need to reseal it before treating the exterior. I've heard of people nickel plating the tanks to seal them. Then there's the swap meet where you might find a really nice clean tank. This is one of those things that really frustrates us all. Check at a paint supply and see if there's anything available that will seal the existing sealant. There may be by now. How much of that stuff can you actually drag out of your tank now? Some may actually be stuck well and by minimizing the amount in there and using a good fuel filter, maybe okay.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks but figure it out with little help acatone white vinger then muric acid in steps the actone will deslove it vinger for rust than acid to get the hard rust out but thanks
Thanks Mike, very helpful. i have a question if you don't mind. I changed the trans sprocket on my 59 FL. and the new one was a tight fit on the shaft so I had to kinda tap it on. Took it for a test ride and all was fine but after about an hour it locked in 3rd gear. after rocking the bike back and forth a bit it released and I returned home. Does it sound like I screwed the trans up? I know that's not much to go on. would leaving the drive gear spacer key out cause a big problem, when I buttoned it all back up I found one on the work bench and don't remember if I installed it or not, i have a bunch of them on the bench so It just has me second guessing.
Hard call. Obviously, something is wrong, but there's only one way to find it. I assume the trans was fine before installing the new sprocket. If the old sprocket was loose, perhaps installing the new sprocket moved the main gear out further and threw things off a bit. The first thing to do is to go back where you were before the problem occurred. Then, if you can't find it, you'll have to go further. Is the sprocket on in the right direction? Is the "relief" on the inside, toward the bike? If all is proper, sounds like a transmission problem. The key needs to be installed to spin the spacer in the seal. But, if the key is jammed up in there, the sprocket could be crooked on the main drive gear. If the main drive gear is not spaced right, it could be locking up. With the new sprocket installed, it should spin freely in neutral.
Thanks Mike. Yeah, it was fine before the sprocket change, I gotta pull it apart next week when I get some more time and check it out and see wtf I did wrong lol. You have a bunch of really good informational videos on the tube. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
It goes in from the bottom and goes out through the bottom. Are the fittings seized? Some times, the worst part of a repair is the fact that we have to destroy something. That is the worst thing. But, I don't know what problem you're having.
@@pacificmike9501 I can not break the nut on the bottom of the tank to pull the petcock out. I had a 1933 with the oil tank with the pump I had a similar issue with. This 48 has two nuts that hold it all together that nut is my problem.
I've never had them seize that bad. Soaking with penetrating oil. It sounds like, if after trying for a long time, you can't succeed, something is going to have to be sacrificed. Or, you keep soaking and trying until you get it. Sorry I'm not there. I don't give up easily either.
@@pacificmike9501 This is original tanks so it don't want to damage them. The bike is all factory original except the front fender and wheel of course. I have tried every oil know to man it is like someone welded the petcock .
Keep going mike in old school tutoring most of this is lost and forgotten
And we love it. Thank You. There are some great kids out there that we're counting on to keep it alive.
Thanks Mike
Just sitting here trying to figure out how to get the petcock to shut off completely and you’ve just answered my question. Thanks again and as usual, good stuff
Cool. Thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 I turned a Facebook group that was discussing this repair onto this particular video which was well received, hope you do t mind
Old school repair,this is heaven🇨🇦
Thank you.
Great vid Mike, mine line up on the 46 but has small weep from top copper washer, I'm going to try some permatex permashield and see if that stops it.
Aneal the washer or replace it with a new one. Ted Cycle has them.
Hi MIKE,
Neat Tool & Tool Instruction ...
COOP
.......................................
Hello, and Thank You.
Thank you, thank you! Bought the tool but wasn't sure how to use it on my 47 FL.
Glad to help. Thank you.
Hi Mike, Max here from Perth Western Australia. Thank you for your exceptional videos and insights into proper HD maintenance. Can you show how to set up and internal throttle cable on an early Pan (Bars to Carb)? Keep up the awesome work, mate.
Thank You. When we get there, we'll do it. It will come up.
Nice when you have the right tool
Couldn't show it without it.
Thank you for doing this
Thank you for watching. Life gets in the way, but we'll be doing more soon
Oh yea thanks mike
One of those things I enjoy.
@@pacificmike9501 me to man
Hi Mike. I have the same tank but there is no petcock hole in the top, just the single hole in the bottom. The fuel shut-off valve was in the fuel line. To my knowledge, the set of tanks are original and to the WLA pattern. I've been told they could be earlier - any ideas?
Couldn't say without looking at them and then probably looking them up. Is part of one tank for oil? The "How To Restore Your Harley" book will probably solve the question for you.
Thanks for getting back to me. Mystery solved! I scoured Bruce's book earlier and discovered that they're off the '37-'39 Army WL/W. A good result.
good morin got ? got 85 flhtc took tank off to clean but seems like someone tried sealing it not sure when but the liner is peeling off inside tank any sugetion on how to get old liner out any help
I honestly don't know. That liner was probably put in by a previous owner. Hard to say exactly what they used. The choices aren't really good, unless you're going to paint it anyway. Having a radiator shop hot tank it for you could work, obviously destroying your paint. Then you'll need to reseal it before treating the exterior. I've heard of people nickel plating the tanks to seal them. Then there's the swap meet where you might find a really nice clean tank. This is one of those things that really frustrates us all. Check at a paint supply and see if there's anything available that will seal the existing sealant. There may be by now. How much of that stuff can you actually drag out of your tank now? Some may actually be stuck well and by minimizing the amount in there and using a good fuel filter, maybe okay.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks but figure it out with little help acatone white vinger then muric acid in steps the actone will deslove it vinger for rust than acid to get the hard rust out but thanks
Thanks Mike, very helpful. i have a question if you don't mind. I changed the trans sprocket on my 59 FL. and the new one was a tight fit on the shaft so I had to kinda tap it on. Took it for a test ride and all was fine but after about an hour it locked in 3rd gear. after rocking the bike back and forth a bit it released and I returned home. Does it sound like I screwed the trans up? I know that's not much to go on. would leaving the drive gear spacer key out cause a big problem, when I buttoned it all back up I found one on the work bench and don't remember if I installed it or not, i have a bunch of them on the bench so It just has me second guessing.
Hard call. Obviously, something is wrong, but there's only one way to find it. I assume the trans was fine before installing the new sprocket. If the old sprocket was loose, perhaps installing the new sprocket moved the main gear out further and threw things off a bit. The first thing to do is to go back where you were before the problem occurred. Then, if you can't find it, you'll have to go further. Is the sprocket on in the right direction? Is the "relief" on the inside, toward the bike? If all is proper, sounds like a transmission problem. The key needs to be installed to spin the spacer in the seal. But, if the key is jammed up in there, the sprocket could be crooked on the main drive gear. If the main drive gear is not spaced right, it could be locking up. With the new sprocket installed, it should spin freely in neutral.
Thanks Mike. Yeah, it was fine before the sprocket change, I gotta pull it apart next week when I get some more time and check it out and see wtf I did wrong lol. You have a bunch of really good informational videos on the tube. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Thank you. It's not strange to have to go back and check your work. It's just "life."
I have a 48 pan and am having a fit getting the petcock out of the tank any suggestions
It goes in from the bottom and goes out through the bottom. Are the fittings seized? Some times, the worst part of a repair is the fact that we have to destroy something. That is the worst thing. But, I don't know what problem you're having.
@@pacificmike9501 I can not break the nut on the bottom of the tank to pull the petcock out. I had a 1933 with the oil tank with the pump I had a similar issue with. This 48 has two nuts that hold it all together that nut is my problem.
I've never had them seize that bad. Soaking with penetrating oil. It sounds like, if after trying for a long time, you can't succeed, something is going to have to be sacrificed. Or, you keep soaking and trying until you get it. Sorry I'm not there. I don't give up easily either.
@@pacificmike9501 This is original tanks so it don't want to damage them. The bike is all factory original except the front fender and wheel of course. I have tried every oil know to man it is like someone welded the petcock .
Koool
☮
Thank You.