I like this format of introducing a project, giving a basic overview and then linking to a playlist with more detailed videos in the correct steps. It's a great way to give a lot of information but keep it digestible. 👍
Wow! I am glad to know that I am not the only one that bought a house with a roughed in basement that has a shower drain that was placed randomly. And of course, you have a video for it! Thanks
We finished our basement a few months ago including a bathroom. Unfortunately, there was no vent stub. We had to use a Studor vent (it is allowed in my area but may not be in yours), not my preference. We had the drain lines for the sink, toilet (with flange) and shower all roughed in. I used PEX to plumb the bathroom. Advice, put shutoffs for the bathroom, so you can turn the water to the house back on and just turn off the water to the bathroom. Would be easier if there was a manifold, but I didn't have that. The lights are connected through a GFCI. All of this went through inspection and passed. Note, the inspector "preferred" the lights to be off a different circuit. If I remember correctly, electrical code states that if 1 bathroom is off 1 circuit, then it can all come from the GFCI. However, if multiple bathrooms are on 1 circuit, the lights have to be on a different circuit. Unfortunately, I couldn't vent my exhaust fan right out the wall. The front porch was on the other side of one wall, and the garage was on the other. I ran the exhaust fan all the way out the back of the house. That meant that I needed a high CFM fan. Not because the bathroom was big, but the distance I had to vent. I could have used an inline fan to do that, but didn't know about those at the time. In my city, I had to have 3 inspections. 1. rough-in (electrical, plumbing, framing). 2. insulation 3. final. Note, if I had to cut the concrete I would have to have an under-slab inspection. The wire you mentioned was for central-vac can also be used for an alarm system. In my case, I had a wire in the bedroom that is meant for an alarm system.
Jeff. Brilliant channel and you deserve your 1 million subscribers. Keep up the good work. I always look forward to your vlogs. I wished you were in the UK. We have a 200 + year old terraced cottage that we want to renovate, but building styles from that era are so different to yours. Our cottage is made from stone clad cob walls which will need work. With some sloping floors and old electrics and plumbing. We want to bring the house back into good order, but it is daunting. Can you point us in the right direction.
# 1 !!! You have helped me finish my basement! You are THE MAN! I have a theatre room built and it is totally soundproofed! Yet I have a dilemma: I don’t want to bust up my concrete to put in a drain. But I want to install a utility sink. It just so happens, there is a drain right in the concrete close to where I want to sink. Yet the drain has the AC unit condensation tube running to it. The question is…can I use that drain for my sink drain? It is flush to the concrete and PVC. So I could fit a PVC connection into it. Just to ensure it never got clogged, I was going to put a garbage disposer under the utility sink, then tie the condensation tube into the drain. Is this a good idea? Is it to code? My other drains are on close to the outside cinder blocks, and not easy to run pipe to.
Your the guy I come to for advice . You don’t come off like a know it all ( but you do ) I went over tile in my mater bath. It turned out wonderful this is harder
I just passed the St Louis County test for electrical and plumbing. The NEC code requires a separate 20 A circuit for the GFCI independent of the lighting and ventilation.
Good job staying positive almost 100%. I don't think that shower drain would pass everywhere though, unless doesn't get inspected or done after inspection
Jeff, another great video but I did not hear you mention the need for an exhaust vent. With lots of other electrical and mechanical stuff in the ceiling, it is critical to locate the exhaust fixture and the venting route. Thanks for your great channel.
So i want to insulation in my basement, living in the cold north, but my basement never gets hot even in summer. Water goes in trough the concrete of the floor and possibly tough the walls. there is sufficient drainage away from the house so it drys up enough that it doesn't get mold. But its so cold i cant actually do any work down there, even though i sometimes want to. so i thought i would add some insulation. The basement is essentially just a concrete bellow ground level. Adding isolation would possibly trap moisture between the concrete and the wall and would start to rot the wood. Adding Styrofoam to the wall can possibly trap moisture and make mold grow. adding epoxy to the floor will stop moisture from going up trough the floor, but i have been told you should let your floor breathe, and i cant add heating elements as its build directly on solid rock and any heat will just dissipate downwards. so i cant find any "safe" way to add isolation to my basement with out digging out around the outside of my house. adding isolation from the outside, something i just cant afford to do to add some heat to my work space in the basement. I dont want to add a Electromechanical form of drying out between the walls, im trying to find to make the basement a nice work environment with out having to be ruined in the process.
Jeff - sent you guys an email, but thought I'd ask it here as well! I'm doing a master bath renovation. Full gut - removed everything. I have a few questions. Here are questions: 1) the previous floor tile was all cracked because I think the subfloor was flexing. I have this issue throughout the house. I can hear subfloor popping and creaking under the carpet. The subfloor was nailed instead of screwed down and I think that's the issue. It's also only one layer of 3/4" plywood. I'm going to screw the subfloor down and I want to install large format tile with a heated system. What should I put on top of the subfloor. Floor leveler? Another layer of plywood? Hardibacker? In what order? Then the schluter membrane on top? 2) I see some staining from water on the subfloor (old shower was leaking). The subfloor still seems have structural integrity, but is stained. Does it need to be replaced? 3) do the heated floors need to be on their own electrical line? Or can they share with the lights? Thanks again for your help!!
not unless it is de laminating or rotting. schluter ditra heat on top of the subfloor should be sufficient if you have 16" oc floor joists. heated floors need to be on their own breaker. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks! Unfortunately, the floor joists are on 24" centers. Does that change the answer? Also, installing a freestanding tub (took out drop in tub) - does the freestanding tub sit directly on the tile? Anything special I should do under the tub in regards to the floor/tile? It's going in almost the same spot as the old tub.
just an added note , our house has rough in 3 inch drain in the ground sticking up and a 2 inch vent that nothing is connected to . there’s a combo ceiling light and night lite with vent to outside and heater with switches . it’s a 7 by 8 foot studded room . all this was done by the builder .
I've seen videos where they have installed sewage ejectors for the basement toilet, I'm assuming that that is not always necessary. So, my question is when is this necessary? My basement has a pipe for the toilet and a smaller pipe sticking out of the floor, am I correct to assume that proper venting already exists? And if I want an extra drain for a shower, do I have to install extra venting?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY well...we moved into the house in 2007. Wife wants a deck first. I wanted to enclose a portion of the deck to allow all the stuff in the basement to go into the dream 4 season room...(that would have a deck for the back upper bedrooms on top). This is all in my head. I was imagining steps that before the four season room/addition would be completed...there would be a pergola (that would eventually be the backbone for the decking boards which would come at a later time). I wanna turn 1(master bedroom) window into a door..and maybe daughter's window into a 2nd door allowing access to the 2nd story deck. Which would only be like a 3rd of the width of the dream deck. Wife does not like my dreams....and I don't have the financial piece to make it happen...but we were just recently given a 10x10 steel and canvas gazebo. I want that mounted on wood more than in grass/mud. So... I may have to do the deck first... Just gotta get the ducks in a row...😇😎
Great Information. It would be really helpful if you could make a video on how to make a shower base and connect pex and waste lines to the bathroom sink, shower and toilet.
I am building a new house. The only pipe under the basement slab is the 4 inch Septic Line, with a 2 inch basement floor drain connected into the 4 inch line under the slab with the drain located in the floor about 4 feet away. It 4 inch septic line comes up out of the slab, in the corner of the basement where the master bath will be directly overhead on the fist floor My Inspector is a easy to get along with person He indicated I should put a vent in the main 4 inch septic close to where the drain connects, I would guess to keep the septic from sucking out the Trap water on the basement drain. So should I install a 4 x 4 x 2 TEE and make the 2 inch vent my main vent
Great video. Thank you. Quick question and this might be a silly one. I understand that the rough-in for a toilet flange has to 12.5 inch off the studs. However I'm planning on putting drywall and tile behind my toilet (around the whole bathroom half wall up). Meaning I would need my flange rough-in to be about 12.75 to 13 inches off the studs. Is that ok? Thanks for your help Jeff.
Holy Smokes! This was so helpful. Question, is it possible to convert a toilet hole to a shower using that handy Schluter drain converter? How about a toilet to a tub?
Jeff I think your videos are the best. I am doing a complete renovation on a sub level / basement apt. In nyc. The existing shower has a concrete floor with the drain opening being 1 1/2” which has me questioning my best route to put in a shower liner the best way I can. The shower I have taken out had a pre made shower pan with the shower drain only consisting of top part of a complete shower drain. What can I do to update the shower?
Hello, great videos. Thank you! Very helpful! Can you point me to the video with the bathroom wiring. I am looking for where my hot wire is coming in from because my switch controls my entire bathroom, including outlets.
Zoom out your camera little bit. Thanks for video. I am trying to add bathroom in a basement of house built in 1970 (4 way side split) and I cant find any info or videos on how to. There is no bathroom roughed in yet, trying to figure out best way.
Need to go back a step. What are each of these pipes sticking out of concrete for? What is this pit (not sump, in the roughed in area)? I assume that's where a maceration/grinder goes?
Thank you for a great video. I have a what-if question :). What if I don't want to build a bathroom in my basement, and my basement has rough-in plumbing for it? For example, I have a 1 1/2" maybe 2" pipe, which might be a venting pipe coming all the way down from the ceiling to the basement floor, and a 3" pipe for the toilet. Can I remove/seal or cap them and be good to go?
I like the simplicity for the drain location for the shower with out opening up the concrete but what about the pea wrap, from my understanding every drainage system needs a pea trap except for toilets because they're Built-in but that shluter one did not?
Hey there another informative video! Thanks.... Question regarding installing a shower fan to vent the steam from the shower. Are there other options for venting a shower? Can you connect into your HRV to vent the moisture or a dryer vent? Our basement shower room does not have a fan. The joist to run the vent pipe outside is being used by dryer vent. Otherwise I would have to drill through 3-4 joists to vent outside. What options are there to vent a basement shower?
Home RenoVision DIY if the builder built the home with a basement rough in for a bathroom - is that safe to say a sewer ejection pump is not needed (example upflush toilet etc)? How would one know if one is needed or if rough in is adequate enough?
Just to add some additional details, my local code requires a dedicated 20 AMP GFCI protected circuit with at least 1 outlet within 3 feet of each sink in the bathroom. Lights do not have to be on this circuit. Another example, my jurisdiction requires all ground wires for outlets and switches to be physically bonded together with an approved copper crimp at rough in (I failed my inspection for this oversight). They also require neutrals to be tied together (wire nut) in switch boxes and all home runs to the panel must have the neutral and ground wires terminated in the electrical panel. I suggest everyone reference their local building permit website and read the referenced code requirements as they may vary. You can also call the permit office and speak with an inspector for guidance.
James NEC requires that lighting cannot be on the outlet circuit. Minimum of 2 circuits for a bathroom. Also since 2014 outlets need to be arc fault protected, not just ground fault. Same goes for kitchen outlets circuits.
The question I have isn't covered here. There is a drain for the shower and a toilet, but both of those are going to be flush cut.. where do I drain the vanitiy? Also, I assume there is a p-trap in the floor for the shower?
First house basement not finished but roughed in. I wonder if this is a task I could do.. Even if I just frame the bathroom that would make me feel good.
thats not a cat-5/6 its an 18-2 stat wire. also i don't know where you work but in CT no-one loads the bathroom lights off of the gfi. should be 2 separate circuits. 12-2 wire on a 20 amp dedicated circuit to the gfi, and the lights can be on pretty much any 15 amp circuit and ran with a 14-2. Lighting in bathrooms do not need to be gfi protected. just don't do anything stupid like putting switchs near the shower. and make sure any lights in the shower are shower rated (most led recessed fixtures are wet location approved)
I'm currently roughing in a three-piece bathroom in my basement and will be putting in radiant floor heating. Once we pour the concrete floor, I'll have the roughed in bathroom pipes sticking out of the floor. In the future, if i decide to add a kitchen, will I be able to tie in the kitchen sink to the drain of the bathroom sink? I won't want to punch up the floor again to add a drain because I'm worried of bursting a pex line.
Jeff - love your videos I'm using them to restore (complete gut) my home after a fire - drywall question - 1st floor living room 11 x 24 (aprox) Kitchen 11 x 26 to minimize butt joints on ceiling (recommended in ur vid) can I install directly to ceiling joist with 11ft cuts running with the joist or do I need to install 1x3 strips first so drywall runs across strips or should I just run across the joist and deal with the butt joints? 2 story Cape I would need to adjust 8 can lights if I add strips. Thanks Barry
Your videos are awesome and I learned a lot and use them in my projects, thank you so much. I have a question about dry fitting ABS sewer drainage system. When I dry fit the ABS pipes and fitting, they are not getting into each other smoothly and easily, just wondering if this is normal and when I apply the cement they will fit easily. I want to be sure before applying the cement for real connecting. Will appreciate your help on this.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Oh! I didn't know that. To make it clear, it means if I have a 3" ABS pipe and one 3" coupling and they are measured 10" together at dry fitting, they will be 10.25" when I glue them together? Is that right?
Hey Jeff, i’ve been keeping a lookout for your video on “where to buy materials?” I think you mentioned it in your first do it yourself live stream. Is this still a thing? Let me know, thanks man!
Hi Steven, we just did a live stream for members where i go through all my secrets. if you join the membership program you can see the video . it is going to be in the members only community post on the home page. cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY got it! Thanks I’ve been thinking about joining. I’m actually in the process of gutting and renovating my basement. Your videos have been an amazing resource.
Can we make washroom where the roughing is not available in basement. We found a house where basement is fully finished but we can't find Roughing. I wonder if we will make washroom and how difficult it would be.
What are your thoughts on venting rough-ins going to an ejector pit? My understanding is I can wet vent off the ejector pit if I’m within 5 feet of the pit. Is that accurate? Should I vent each line anyway?
Hi Jeff. I have an issue with a toilet replacement. The existing flange is cracked right where the toilet bolts would go. It is also not level. I got the oakey repair ring but it is too small. Existing flange is 7 1/4”. Any idea for a next step. Thanks. Don
Moved into a '79 house 2 years ago and decided to redo the basement bathroom. I'm down to the studs and concrete and noticed that the walls were framed using 2x2s. I want to put in a bathtub but not sure if the 2x2s will give it enough support. Any suggestions? Assuming reframing with 2x4s is not an option since the rough-in drains are positioned according to the 2x2 walls.
@7:52 How can you tell what these are suppose to be used for? I have a stub out like that in my basement but its pointing down and NOT capped. I thought this was for my vent line for when I install my vanity plumbing that's already roughed in.
If you have the heat recovery system installed then you don't need a fan. and yes it can be tricky so if you are buying a new house have the builder install the exhaust for the fan so you can tie in later.
Hey Jeff. Always love your vids! Question for you, for your basement subfloor system would you run that system into the bathroom up to the shower ledge? Or could you run that system into the bathroom and tile or vinyl plank so that there is not a large transition from the hallway to the bathroom?
subfloor to the shower ledge and vinyl plank is great! or to the door and ditra membrane and tile, or subfloor to shower and extra 58 plywood and tile on subfloor.
Home RenoVision DIY thanks for taking the time to reply that is much appreciated! I’m starting my basement this weekend and this video came at the best time!
Love your work but what can you make a video on how to finish plumping if the main drain is not in ground but main drain is on the side about 24 upvote the floor in the basement
Have a 3-3 1/2" pipe sticking about 8" out of the floor of my basement its capped with a rubber cover with a hose clamp holding the cap on, its 6 1/2" from the poured concrete wall. What could this be for?
I'll point out that in some areas pex is against code.... literally.... and same with romex. Please don't state "for rough in plumbing, you can go with pex"... where I live here in IL you cannot use pex, you have to use copper. Word for your viewer base not by you. And for that matter you cannot use ABS plastic pipe either, you have to use PVC. And for electric you need conduit. BX is allowed (NOT GREENFIELD) for 6' or less!!! For example I used BX for all my can lights for my basement to connect light to light. But to get there it's all conduit.
I have a old house built in 1042 . Has only 1 bathroon. I want put a 2nd bathroon in the basement . Im in ct. Debating on doing it myself or maybe hire a contractor . My biggest issue thats ho.ding me back is the plumbing
Hi Miriam, you can always hire a plumber to do the rough in and you do the rest,. That way you get great results and a great return on investment. Cheers!
My builder really cheaped on my new build. They put one main drain for the whole house. It’s 2600 sq ft. Am I going to run into problems in the future?
At 8:30 - My 1958 Bungalow house had that water shutoff in the ceiling of the bathroom via a access hatch. I have seen it more often in older 30+ yrs houses. But that house you are in looks much newer, so I would be curious what is to code and what is to "code-ish" :)
Mine is exactly like that. 1978 build. I have to get to it through an opening in the wall, try to reach to the ceiling, and because I am short, I have to get my arm and shoulder and my head in the wall opening. I have to do that while on top of a ladder. I absolutely dread this twice a year ritual.
My rough-in has no vent, just 3 holes in the ground cut flush with the cement. I have a feeling I have to now break concrete to add couples for the drain pipe to run up to the fixtures? Also can I use a cheater vent in the wall or do I have to build a real vent or find one by breaking out the drywall thats already in?
i think you get fined or you cant sell the house under official listings or worst case they ask you to rip out the things that werent on the original plan of the house
Hi Jeff!! Can you put a suspended ceiling in the basement bathroom above the shower or is this not a good idea? The contractor says to build a bulkhead and put drywall above the shower and then put suspended ceiling for the rest of the bathroom ceiling. I want a pro's opinion so Could you please help!!! Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I like this format of introducing a project, giving a basic overview and then linking to a playlist with more detailed videos in the correct steps. It's a great way to give a lot of information but keep it digestible. 👍
cheers clay
How to get a new bathroom fixed to
Thanks again for your time ☺️🎦📢👍
Wow! I am glad to know that I am not the only one that bought a house with a roughed in basement that has a shower drain that was placed randomly. And of course, you have a video for it! Thanks
I've been watching t his guy for 3 months now, and I continue finding SO MANY GEMS LIKE THIS. This is answering so many questions all at once.
I have no plans to renovate a bathroom but I can't stop watching your bathroom reno videos. I have a problem.
We finished our basement a few months ago including a bathroom. Unfortunately, there was no vent stub. We had to use a Studor vent (it is allowed in my area but may not be in yours), not my preference. We had the drain lines for the sink, toilet (with flange) and shower all roughed in. I used PEX to plumb the bathroom. Advice, put shutoffs for the bathroom, so you can turn the water to the house back on and just turn off the water to the bathroom. Would be easier if there was a manifold, but I didn't have that.
The lights are connected through a GFCI. All of this went through inspection and passed. Note, the inspector "preferred" the lights to be off a different circuit. If I remember correctly, electrical code states that if 1 bathroom is off 1 circuit, then it can all come from the GFCI. However, if multiple bathrooms are on 1 circuit, the lights have to be on a different circuit.
Unfortunately, I couldn't vent my exhaust fan right out the wall. The front porch was on the other side of one wall, and the garage was on the other. I ran the exhaust fan all the way out the back of the house. That meant that I needed a high CFM fan. Not because the bathroom was big, but the distance I had to vent. I could have used an inline fan to do that, but didn't know about those at the time.
In my city, I had to have 3 inspections. 1. rough-in (electrical, plumbing, framing). 2. insulation 3. final. Note, if I had to cut the concrete I would have to have an under-slab inspection.
The wire you mentioned was for central-vac can also be used for an alarm system. In my case, I had a wire in the bedroom that is meant for an alarm system.
How did you guys make a bathroom
I really loves these videos from Jeff. Wish he had these DIY remodel videos for unfinished attics!
Really like the fact that you presented the other videos to watch at the end of this episode. Thx
Our rough in has the toilet and shower/bathtub so close there would be 2” of space.
Your videos are excellent tools for diy.
Many thank you.
Jeff. Brilliant channel and you deserve your 1 million subscribers. Keep up the good work.
I always look forward to your vlogs. I wished you were in the UK. We have a 200 + year old terraced cottage that we want to renovate, but building styles from that era are so different to yours. Our cottage is made from stone clad cob walls which will need work. With some sloping floors and old electrics and plumbing. We want to bring the house back into good order, but it is daunting. Can you point us in the right direction.
The best advice I ever got was start with making the structure sound. then build on that!
Jeff. Many thanks.
Thanks for uploading Video. Amazing information in just few minutes Video. Worth watching it.
Wish you could come to Minnesota!
Your videos havee helped me make so much money. Keep up the great videos!
Glad to hear it!
# 1 !!! You have helped me finish my basement! You are THE MAN! I have a theatre room built and it is totally soundproofed! Yet I have a dilemma: I don’t want to bust up my concrete to put in a drain. But I want to install a utility sink. It just so happens, there is a drain right in the concrete close to where I want to sink. Yet the drain has the AC unit condensation tube running to it. The question is…can I use that drain for my sink drain? It is flush to the concrete and PVC. So I could fit a PVC connection into it. Just to ensure it never got clogged, I was going to put a garbage disposer under the utility sink, then tie the condensation tube into the drain. Is this a good idea? Is it to code? My other drains are on close to the outside cinder blocks, and not easy to run pipe to.
Your the guy I come to for advice . You don’t come off like a know it all ( but you do ) I went over tile in my mater bath. It turned out wonderful this is harder
I just passed the St Louis County test for electrical and plumbing. The NEC code requires a separate 20 A circuit for the GFCI independent of the lighting and ventilation.
The shower drain extender!! This is what I need!
No.... it’s not. Trust me. Those are nightmares waiting to happen
@@danbedard290 I look at this and ask where is the P-trap at? I want a bathroom in my basement but I don’t want my house smelling like a$$
Good job staying positive almost 100%. I don't think that shower drain would pass everywhere though, unless doesn't get inspected or done after inspection
the city never inspects how you assemble the shower just the rough in and the final to see the water go down.
Fortunately I get to see your videos which is really very helpful , unfortunately you make me up till 5:00 am, thanks for post ✅
Hello Jeff, What if there is no rough-in to the basement? Would it be a major change to the cost to add the rough-in to an existing basement?
It depends. You’d have to break up the concrete, put all the pipes in, then repour the concrete
This was ridiculously helpful! Thank you!
This video is gold. Thank you so much
Jeff, another great video but I did not hear you mention the need for an exhaust vent. With lots of other electrical and mechanical stuff in the ceiling, it is critical to locate the exhaust fixture and the venting route. Thanks for your great channel.
This house has heat recovery unit which replaces the need for a fan. Cheers!
Extremely usefull videos. I wich I could press "like" more than once. 👍😉
So i want to insulation in my basement, living in the cold north, but my basement never gets hot even in summer. Water goes in trough the concrete of the floor and possibly tough the walls. there is sufficient drainage away from the house so it drys up enough that it doesn't get mold. But its so cold i cant actually do any work down there, even though i sometimes want to. so i thought i would add some insulation. The basement is essentially just a concrete bellow ground level. Adding isolation would possibly trap moisture between the concrete and the wall and would start to rot the wood. Adding Styrofoam to the wall can possibly trap moisture and make mold grow. adding epoxy to the floor will stop moisture from going up trough the floor, but i have been told you should let your floor breathe, and i cant add heating elements as its build directly on solid rock and any heat will just dissipate downwards. so i cant find any "safe" way to add isolation to my basement with out digging out around the outside of my house. adding isolation from the outside, something i just cant afford to do to add some heat to my work space in the basement. I dont want to add a Electromechanical form of drying out between the walls, im trying to find to make the basement a nice work environment with out having to be ruined in the process.
omg this video is made for me, thanks Jeff!!
I'd love to see a video for a washer and dryer to be moved to the top floor.
Sounds good!
I'd love to see a video on how to move a washer and dryer down into the basement in an early 1900s home with narrow stair cases
Nick Contabile cut the hallway or appliances
@@semantinipassat8504 just sawed my washer in half, dryer next!
Could not stop thinking he was sitting on a toilet having a conversation.
@Kristopher Andres Definitely, been watching on flixzone for months myself :)
I love slim line led so bright
Jeff - sent you guys an email, but thought I'd ask it here as well! I'm doing a master bath renovation. Full gut - removed everything. I have a few questions.
Here are questions:
1) the previous floor tile was all cracked because I think the subfloor was flexing. I have this issue throughout the house. I can hear subfloor popping and creaking under the carpet. The subfloor was nailed instead of screwed down and I think that's the issue. It's also only one layer of 3/4" plywood. I'm going to screw the subfloor down and I want to install large format tile with a heated system. What should I put on top of the subfloor. Floor leveler? Another layer of plywood? Hardibacker? In what order? Then the schluter membrane on top?
2) I see some staining from water on the subfloor (old shower was leaking). The subfloor still seems have structural integrity, but is stained. Does it need to be replaced?
3) do the heated floors need to be on their own electrical line? Or can they share with the lights?
Thanks again for your help!!
not unless it is de laminating or rotting. schluter ditra heat on top of the subfloor should be sufficient if you have 16" oc floor joists. heated floors need to be on their own breaker. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks! Unfortunately, the floor joists are on 24" centers. Does that change the answer? Also, installing a freestanding tub (took out drop in tub) - does the freestanding tub sit directly on the tile? Anything special I should do under the tub in regards to the floor/tile? It's going in almost the same spot as the old tub.
Thanks for all your videos. Good job 👏
just an added note , our house has rough in 3 inch drain in the ground sticking up and a 2 inch vent that nothing is connected to . there’s a combo ceiling light and night lite with vent to outside and heater with switches . it’s a 7 by 8 foot studded room . all this was done by the builder .
Great information!
But i really hate how UA-cam changed the comments around...
Do others like this?
I've seen videos where they have installed sewage ejectors for the basement toilet, I'm assuming that that is not always necessary. So, my question is when is this necessary? My basement has a pipe for the toilet and a smaller pipe sticking out of the floor, am I correct to assume that proper venting already exists? And if I want an extra drain for a shower, do I have to install extra venting?
Jeff is flicking us off at 4:11 🤣🤣🤣
LOL< Cheers Kelsey!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Cheers! Love your vids. Keep the content coming!
This is my situation! I've not done anything, but dream about this. Haha! 😇😎 ... Plus the saving up for this...😇😎
That is cool, when do you think you will start?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY well...we moved into the house in 2007. Wife wants a deck first. I wanted to enclose a portion of the deck to allow all the stuff in the basement to go into the dream 4 season room...(that would have a deck for the back upper bedrooms on top). This is all in my head. I was imagining steps that before the four season room/addition would be completed...there would be a pergola (that would eventually be the backbone for the decking boards which would come at a later time). I wanna turn 1(master bedroom) window into a door..and maybe daughter's window into a 2nd door allowing access to the 2nd story deck. Which would only be like a 3rd of the width of the dream deck. Wife does not like my dreams....and I don't have the financial piece to make it happen...but we were just recently given a 10x10 steel and canvas gazebo. I want that mounted on wood more than in grass/mud. So... I may have to do the deck first...
Just gotta get the ducks in a row...😇😎
A lot of helpful information here!
You the best, I learned a lot from you .
Great Information. It would be really helpful if you could make a video on how to make a shower base and connect pex and waste lines to the bathroom sink, shower and toilet.
we are going to have to do that one of these days!
You are still awesome! Thank you for what you do
Cheers so are you!
I am building a new house.
The only pipe under the basement slab
is the 4 inch Septic Line, with a 2 inch basement floor drain
connected into the 4 inch line under the slab with
the drain located in the floor about 4 feet away.
It 4 inch septic line comes up out of the slab, in the corner of the basement
where the master bath will be directly overhead on the fist floor
My Inspector is a easy to get along with person
He indicated I should put a vent in the main 4 inch septic
close to where the drain connects, I would guess to keep the
septic from sucking out the Trap water on the basement drain.
So should I install a 4 x 4 x 2 TEE and make the 2 inch vent my main vent
Dude!! Ur awesome!!💪🏽💪🏽
Cheers!
I love your videos please don’t stop making them! I will definitely contribute if need be
you can always join our membership program to help support the channel. Cheers!
Great video. Thank you. Quick question and this might be a silly one. I understand that the rough-in for a toilet flange has to 12.5 inch off the studs. However I'm planning on putting drywall and tile behind my toilet (around the whole bathroom half wall up). Meaning I would need my flange rough-in to be about 12.75 to 13 inches off the studs. Is that ok? Thanks for your help Jeff.
We had a clean out in the basement that wasn't capped.
Holy Smokes! This was so helpful. Question, is it possible to convert a toilet hole to a shower using that handy Schluter drain converter? How about a toilet to a tub?
Also, what is that schmancy thing called? I can’t find one online.
yes you could insert a 3" to 1 1/2" bushing into the pipe cut at the floor and then use a street 90 to turn into the pipe. Cheers!
sure!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY what about sewer gases? U don't need a P trap ?
Jeff I think your videos are the best. I am doing a complete renovation on a sub level / basement apt. In nyc. The existing shower has a concrete floor with the drain opening being 1 1/2” which has me questioning my best route to put in a shower liner the best way I can.
The shower I have taken out had a pre made shower pan with the shower drain only consisting of top part of a complete shower drain. What can I do to update the shower?
Hello, great videos. Thank you! Very helpful! Can you point me to the video with the bathroom wiring. I am looking for where my hot wire is coming in from because my switch controls my entire bathroom, including outlets.
How do I add a shower drain to my 1/2 bathroom basement?
Zoom out your camera little bit. Thanks for video. I am trying to add bathroom in a basement of house built in 1970 (4 way side split) and I cant find any info or videos on how to. There is no bathroom roughed in yet, trying to figure out best way.
Need to go back a step. What are each of these pipes sticking out of concrete for? What is this pit (not sump, in the roughed in area)? I assume that's where a maceration/grinder goes?
Thank you for a great video. I have a what-if question :). What if I don't want to build a bathroom in my basement, and my basement has rough-in plumbing for it? For example, I have a 1 1/2" maybe 2" pipe, which might be a venting pipe coming all the way down from the ceiling to the basement floor, and a 3" pipe for the toilet. Can I remove/seal or cap them and be good to go?
Basic question: is this the correct order … framing, plumbing, electrical, drywall, tub/shower, painting, flooring, toilet & vanity?
Do you have a video on a basement bathroom install when the sewage line is above gravity feed ? Like many of us in the country? thanks
I like the simplicity for the drain location for the shower with out opening up the concrete but what about the pea wrap, from my understanding every drainage system needs a pea trap except for toilets because they're Built-in but that shluter one did not?
Thanks for the video Jeff, this is exactly what I was searching for!
From the Ottawa area 🇨🇦
Hey there another informative video! Thanks.... Question regarding installing a shower fan to vent the steam from the shower. Are there other options for venting a shower? Can you connect into your HRV to vent the moisture or a dryer vent? Our basement shower room does not have a fan. The joist to run the vent pipe outside is being used by dryer vent. Otherwise I would have to drill through 3-4 joists to vent outside. What options are there to vent a basement shower?
Do you have a video for a basement that is not roughed in, no drain? Perhaps installed with a Saniflo macerating pump?
Just the info i needed, Thank you mate!. :)
No problem 👍Cheers!
I need to identify the rough plumbing fixtures in my unfinished basement,
Home RenoVision DIY if the builder built the home with a basement rough in for a bathroom - is that safe to say a sewer ejection pump is not needed (example upflush toilet etc)? How would one know if one is needed or if rough in is adequate enough?
Just to add some additional details, my local code requires a dedicated 20 AMP GFCI protected circuit with at least 1 outlet within 3 feet of each sink in the bathroom. Lights do not have to be on this circuit. Another example, my jurisdiction requires all ground wires for outlets and switches to be physically bonded together with an approved copper crimp at rough in (I failed my inspection for this oversight). They also require neutrals to be tied together (wire nut) in switch boxes and all home runs to the panel must have the neutral and ground wires terminated in the electrical panel. I suggest everyone reference their local building permit website and read the referenced code requirements as they may vary. You can also call the permit office and speak with an inspector for guidance.
James NEC requires that lighting cannot be on the outlet circuit. Minimum of 2 circuits for a bathroom. Also since 2014 outlets need to be arc fault protected, not just ground fault. Same goes for kitchen outlets circuits.
always best to refer to regional codes. things are different here in Canada for sure!
@@hansjensen7823 You are correct, just pulled out the NEC to reread again!
Hi! any tips/suggestions for a shower base to install a 48’ linear drain against the wall? Cheers!
The question I have isn't covered here. There is a drain for the shower and a toilet, but both of those are going to be flush cut.. where do I drain the vanitiy? Also, I assume there is a p-trap in the floor for the shower?
Hi Jeff, how do i find the venting in the besement? I have a roughed in bathroom. I am adding one shower and a soaker tub. Thanks for your time.
First house basement not finished but roughed in. I wonder if this is a task I could do.. Even if I just frame the bathroom that would make me feel good.
thats not a cat-5/6 its an 18-2 stat wire. also i don't know where you work but in CT no-one loads the bathroom lights off of the gfi. should be 2 separate circuits. 12-2 wire on a 20 amp dedicated circuit to the gfi, and the lights can be on pretty much any 15 amp circuit and ran with a 14-2. Lighting in bathrooms do not need to be gfi protected. just don't do anything stupid like putting switchs near the shower. and make sure any lights in the shower are shower rated (most led recessed fixtures are wet location approved)
I'm currently roughing in a three-piece bathroom in my basement and will be putting in radiant floor heating. Once we pour the concrete floor, I'll have the roughed in bathroom pipes sticking out of the floor. In the future, if i decide to add a kitchen, will I be able to tie in the kitchen sink to the drain of the bathroom sink? I won't want to punch up the floor again to add a drain because I'm worried of bursting a pex line.
Hi Jeff, where can I find the 90 degrees flange because my rough in at the basement is too close to the walls.
Thank you
Jeff - love your videos I'm using them to restore (complete gut) my home after a fire - drywall question - 1st floor living room 11 x 24 (aprox) Kitchen 11 x 26 to minimize butt joints on ceiling (recommended in ur vid) can I install directly to ceiling joist with 11ft cuts running with the joist or do I need to install 1x3 strips first so drywall runs across strips or should I just run across the joist and deal with the butt joints? 2 story Cape I would need to adjust 8 can lights if I add strips. Thanks Barry
Your videos are awesome and I learned a lot and use them in my projects, thank you so much. I have a question about dry fitting ABS sewer drainage system. When I dry fit the ABS pipes and fitting, they are not getting into each other smoothly and easily, just wondering if this is normal and when I apply the cement they will fit easily. I want to be sure before applying the cement for real connecting. Will appreciate your help on this.
dry fit is always 1/4" shorter than the final. Just factor that in so you don't end up short. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Oh! I didn't know that. To make it clear, it means if I have a 3" ABS pipe and one 3" coupling and they are measured 10" together at dry fitting, they will be 10.25" when I glue them together? Is that right?
Hey Jeff, i’ve been keeping a lookout for your video on “where to buy materials?” I think you mentioned it in your first do it yourself live stream. Is this still a thing? Let me know, thanks man!
Hi Steven, we just did a live stream for members where i go through all my secrets. if you join the membership program you can see the video . it is going to be in the members only community post on the home page. cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY got it! Thanks I’ve been thinking about joining. I’m actually in the process of gutting and renovating my basement. Your videos have been an amazing resource.
Great info Jeff as usual.
Cheers Gerry!
Can we make washroom where the roughing is not available in basement. We found a house where basement is fully finished but we can't find Roughing. I wonder if we will make washroom and how difficult it would be.
What are your thoughts on venting rough-ins going to an ejector pit? My understanding is I can wet vent off the ejector pit if I’m within 5 feet of the pit. Is that accurate? Should I vent each line anyway?
Hi! We are doing our basement bathroom. Where we can connect our bathroom plumb vent? Can we use cheater vent?
Thx for the wonderful information! 😁 keep up the good work
Happy to help Garrett!
Hi Jeff. I have an issue with a toilet replacement. The existing flange is cracked right where the toilet bolts would go. It is also not level. I got the oakey repair ring but it is too small. Existing flange is 7 1/4”. Any idea for a next step. Thanks. Don
Moved into a '79 house 2 years ago and decided to redo the basement bathroom. I'm down to the studs and concrete and noticed that the walls were framed using 2x2s. I want to put in a bathtub but not sure if the 2x2s will give it enough support. Any suggestions? Assuming reframing with 2x4s is not an option since the rough-in drains are positioned according to the 2x2 walls.
Thank Jeff!
@7:52 How can you tell what these are suppose to be used for? I have a stub out like that in my basement but its pointing down and NOT capped. I thought this was for my vent line for when I install my vanity plumbing that's already roughed in.
What about adding a bathroom fan? I feel like that would be a challenge from a basement
If you have the heat recovery system installed then you don't need a fan. and yes it can be tricky so if you are buying a new house have the builder install the exhaust for the fan so you can tie in later.
Hi Jeff moen recommends to use copper from the valve to the spout, is that really necessary or can i just use pex thanks
Hey Jeff. Always love your vids! Question for you, for your basement subfloor system would you run that system into the bathroom up to the shower ledge? Or could you run that system into the bathroom and tile or vinyl plank so that there is not a large transition from the hallway to the bathroom?
subfloor to the shower ledge and vinyl plank is great! or to the door and ditra membrane and tile, or subfloor to shower and extra 58 plywood and tile on subfloor.
Home RenoVision DIY thanks for taking the time to reply that is much appreciated! I’m starting my basement this weekend and this video came at the best time!
Love your work but what can you make a video on how to finish plumping if the main drain is not in ground but main drain is on the side about 24 upvote the floor in the basement
sure thing!
Have a 3-3 1/2" pipe sticking about 8" out of the floor of my basement its capped with a rubber cover with a hose clamp holding the cap on, its 6 1/2" from the poured concrete wall. What could this be for?
I'll point out that in some areas pex is against code.... literally.... and same with romex. Please don't state "for rough in plumbing, you can go with pex"... where I live here in IL you cannot use pex, you have to use copper. Word for your viewer base not by you. And for that matter you cannot use ABS plastic pipe either, you have to use PVC. And for electric you need conduit. BX is allowed (NOT GREENFIELD) for 6' or less!!! For example I used BX for all my can lights for my basement to connect light to light. But to get there it's all conduit.
We have a plastic cover over our shower drain and are having trouble removing it. Is there an easy way to remove it?
Do you have a video of how to finish a custom shower with the 99 degree shower drain? Can’t find it anywhere.
90 degree*
What do you do if your tub drain kit is 1.5 inch but the house waste rough in is 2 inch
I have a old house built in 1042 . Has only 1 bathroon. I want put a 2nd bathroon in the basement . Im in ct. Debating on doing it myself or maybe hire a contractor . My biggest issue thats ho.ding me back is the plumbing
Hi Miriam, you can always hire a plumber to do the rough in and you do the rest,. That way you get great results and a great return on investment. Cheers!
Smart...
Thank you
You're welcome, Cheers!
Can you put a drop ceiling in a basement bathroom?
I have a tub where the drain is above the slab. Current tub is elevated and dangerous. It is a gravity septic system. No idea what i can do to fix it
My builder really cheaped on my new build. They put one main drain for the whole house. It’s 2600 sq ft. Am I going to run into problems in the future?
not unless you all synchronize the flushing of large wads of t.p.
At 8:30 - My 1958 Bungalow house had that water shutoff in the ceiling of the bathroom via a access hatch. I have seen it more often in older 30+ yrs houses. But that house you are in looks much newer, so I would be curious what is to code and what is to "code-ish" :)
acceptable as long as it is not hidden. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I found "not hidden" and "easily accessible" were not the same. I could only turn the know about 1/8th of a turn as I went.
Mine is exactly like that. 1978 build. I have to get to it through an opening in the wall, try to reach to the ceiling, and because I am short, I have to get my arm and shoulder and my head in the wall opening. I have to do that while on top of a ladder. I absolutely dread this twice a year ritual.
My rough-in has no vent, just 3 holes in the ground cut flush with the cement. I have a feeling I have to now break concrete to add couples for the drain pipe to run up to the fixtures? Also can I use a cheater vent in the wall or do I have to build a real vent or find one by breaking out the drywall thats already in?
I thought this also at my house but there was a vent hiding behind the insulation on the exterior wall
@@humanonefourthreeeighteigh810 I dont wanna take out all the drywall, is there a way to detect?
Great video but curious what happens if you do all this work and end up not getting a permit what happens when you try to sell the house?
?
@@sharlannshanks1910 what happens if ya don't get a permit eh?
Good question my friend. I'm sure you will find the answers. x
i think you get fined or you cant sell the house under official listings or worst case they ask you to rip out the things that werent on the original plan of the house
That all depends on where you live. different places have different rules. Just get a permit. no reason not to. Cheers!
12’ is not the code in Ontario for ks cleanout. Try 19 ish ‘
Hi Jeff!! Can you put a suspended ceiling in the basement bathroom above the shower or is this not a good idea? The contractor says to build a bulkhead and put drywall above the shower and then put suspended ceiling for the rest of the bathroom ceiling. I want a pro's opinion so Could you please help!!! Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
contractor's right. cheers!
Thank you so much!! I just found your channel and I'm learning so much. I just wish I had your skills to silence all the critics lol. Take Care!!