Philip Kraft put Boccanera through a gas chromatograph and wrote a detailed analysis of the scent's composition on the Scent and Chemistry Facebook page. In essence, this Gualtieri signature you speak of in your review is an overdose of synthetic sandalwood and other woody odorants: 11% Niberol (resonsible for the steroidal/urinaceous opening), 6% Javanol (responsible for the tenacious dry woody drydown), 25% iso E super, etc. My issue with nearly all of Gualtieri's scents is that they are, for the most part, just variations of the same synthetic woody signature. I'd like to see Gualtieri come out more often of his comfort zone.
Why don't you bring your brilliant skills and come out with a new and revolutionary, out of a gas-chromatograph-unique, fragrance?! Don't over simplify. Do a BS reverse engineering is easy! Come out with a unique scent(s) is a job for pros. So, quit with your theoretical idiocy! Be humble or do something better!
I am Asian, this perfume to me is a reminder of the traditional medicine balls which tranquilize people who suffer from a previous scary or threatening incident. It is warm, calming and cosy, instead of lusty or sexy. I would recommend this to people undergoing some rough time and who are into the authentic Asian or Chinese traditional medicine or therapies.
After watching your haul video with Serge- Le participe passé, found it cheap, received it today and I'm very happy with it. It's the first from the house I've smelled. Your initial unboxing description of the fragrance was pretty much exactly what I was looking for in a fall scent this year. I can't thank you enough because I really like it so far. I'm currently living in an overspray zone and I'm not mad!
Great review and I’m excited, though I’m not sure if I would want to purchase it since I already own Black Afgano. I want to also mention that judging from some BN posts and Fragrantica reviews, some fragrances from this house do go in completely different directions and they actually work out pretty well. Hope to see your take on those.
Black Afgano has been reformulated. The bottle I used years ago is much stronger than the bottle I just bought. It’s almost half the strength. I think this is despicable of Gualtieri to do. He hooked his customer base and now he weakens his most popular fragrances . I know lots of the big niche houses do that but I expected more from this house. Looks like greed is rampant in Niche. Big time.
I wish I got what you got, Marc! On my skin, the fragrance is dominated by the pepper (definitely black), and the chili note. The chili note is very similar to what I get from Journey Man, just stronger. Great review as always!
What a weird one. But something keeps me coming back to smell it . I already own all but one Nasomatto frags. I don’t like his newest one that smells metallic. I hate metal smell. I adore Gualtieri.
Yes I see it. It’s like a different twist of black afgano. I love my black afgano even if it’s much weaker than the darker stronger bottle I had 6 yrs ago. If I’d known Gualtieri would get greedy and reformulate his most popular frags, I would have bought a dozen bottles of each one. Not just for myself but to sell. Coz I’d give anything for an original pre formulated black afgano. And yes I do trust my nose. I don’t care what others say. It’s so obvious that he’s reformulated the Nasomatto line. My goodness if u smell Black Afgano and Pardon from 5 yrs ago you’d be amazed at how incredible the perfumes are. Compared to the ones being sold. Kw that are just a ghost of their former selves.
I wouldn't blame the reformulation on his greed - it's usually the new regulations concerning the quantities of certain aromachemicals and naturals that force all houses to reformulate their fragrances to meet the new guidelines. And it's going to get even worse because more and more of those compounds that are used in perfumery are deemed allergens, hence they need to be used in smaller and smaller amounts.
"Éléphant " from Zoologist has a cacao note And IS not a "gourmand" fragrance, to my nose. Thanks again for your your clever rews!
is it redundant to have boccanera when i already own pardon?
Is it safe to say all orto parisi scents are a must buy.i have bergamask on the way
Me, my brother in law and his doughter (my niece) have a passion for this misterious fragrance! It's unique and brilliant.
Philip Kraft put Boccanera through a gas chromatograph and wrote a detailed analysis of the scent's composition on the Scent and Chemistry Facebook page. In essence, this Gualtieri signature you speak of in your review is an overdose of synthetic sandalwood and other woody odorants: 11% Niberol (resonsible for the steroidal/urinaceous opening), 6% Javanol (responsible for the tenacious dry woody drydown), 25% iso E super, etc. My issue with nearly all of Gualtieri's scents is that they are, for the most part, just variations of the same synthetic woody signature. I'd like to see Gualtieri come out more often of his comfort zone.
Why don't you bring your brilliant skills and come out with a new and revolutionary, out of a gas-chromatograph-unique, fragrance?! Don't over simplify. Do a BS reverse engineering is easy! Come out with a unique scent(s) is a job for pros. So, quit with your theoretical idiocy! Be humble or do something better!
I am Asian, this perfume to me is a reminder of the traditional medicine balls which tranquilize people who suffer from a previous scary or threatening incident. It is warm, calming and cosy, instead of lusty or sexy. I would recommend this to people undergoing some rough time and who are into the authentic Asian or Chinese traditional medicine or therapies.
Guys what are gaultieris top 3 releases ??
Really like the color of the fragrace deep brown! 🤎
After watching your haul video with Serge- Le participe passé, found it cheap, received it today and I'm very happy with it. It's the first from the house I've smelled. Your initial unboxing description of the fragrance was pretty much exactly what I was looking for in a fall scent this year. I can't thank you enough because I really like it so far. I'm currently living in an overspray zone and I'm not mad!
Great review and I’m excited, though I’m not sure if I would want to purchase it since I already own Black Afgano. I want to also mention that judging from some BN posts and Fragrantica reviews, some fragrances from this house do go in completely different directions and they actually work out pretty well. Hope to see your take on those.
Black Afgano has been reformulated. The bottle I used years ago is much stronger than the bottle I just bought. It’s almost half the strength. I think this is despicable of Gualtieri to do. He hooked his customer base and now he weakens his most popular fragrances . I know lots of the big niche houses do that but I expected more from this house. Looks like greed is rampant in Niche. Big time.
I wish I got what you got, Marc! On my skin, the fragrance is dominated by the pepper (definitely black), and the chili note. The chili note is very similar to what I get from Journey Man, just stronger. Great review as always!
What a weird one. But something keeps me coming back to smell it . I already own all but one Nasomatto frags. I don’t like his newest one that smells metallic. I hate metal smell. I adore Gualtieri.
A perfume that has a dominant chocolate note but is not a gourmand would be, Nasomatto Pardon
Great. review and I enjoyed it and I'm going to try it and have a blessed day
Fume 'n' gloom 🌫️🍫🌫️
The professor, thank you.
You bet!
Yes I see it. It’s like a different twist of black afgano. I love my black afgano even if it’s much weaker than the darker stronger bottle I had 6 yrs ago. If I’d known Gualtieri would get greedy and reformulate his most popular frags, I would have bought a dozen bottles of each one. Not just for myself but to sell. Coz I’d give anything for an original pre formulated black afgano. And yes I do trust my nose. I don’t care what others say. It’s so obvious that he’s reformulated the Nasomatto line. My goodness if u smell Black Afgano and Pardon from 5 yrs ago you’d be amazed at how incredible the perfumes are. Compared to the ones being sold. Kw that are just a ghost of their former selves.
I wouldn't blame the reformulation on his greed - it's usually the new regulations concerning the quantities of certain aromachemicals and naturals that force all houses to reformulate their fragrances to meet the new guidelines. And it's going to get even worse because more and more of those compounds that are used in perfumery are deemed allergens, hence they need to be used in smaller and smaller amounts.