Yo! You could try some Kailh box purples or royals maybe? Those appear to be pretty close in tactical-ness (tactility?). That said, these are modeled after the Holy Pandas you can find on Drop, though those are priciest probably.
@@osirusj275 I haven't tried the Pandas, but Boba U4 are silent tactiles and they have a scratchy feel to them. After a few hundred switch actuations, the scratchiness reduces by more than half I'd say, but they will retain the scratchy feeling to some extent. I use them for my keyboard at work and I don't really have any complaints. Lubing will almost entirely get rid of the scratchiness according to what I've read from others, but you will lose tactility. I haven't tried other silent tactile switches, but the feel may be par for the course. U4T are the "thocky" version. They are great. Pretty smooth to begin with, most people claim that lubing them offers almost no difference in smoothness. Comparable to the Zealio V2 switches, but with a more rounded bump profile. I am actually using some custom U4Ts from Kirball Keys for my keyboard at home. They have 65g Gazzew springs and were lubed. I can say they feel and sound great. I would say stock U4Ts are a great buy. They are a little cheaper than the Pandas, but you'll be waiting a bit until stock replenishes at all the authorized vendors. Both Boba switches have practically zero pre-travel. It's likely less than on the Pandas.
@@osirusj275 You can't film the u4T's because of the tight tolerances, I've had trouble to close them sometimes because they wouldn't lock probably its a great switch.
They improve the sound over stock, some switches may have wobble between the top and bottom housing which makes them sound "loose" or "scratchy". Adding the film between the top and bottom housing stops them from wobbling and makes the switches sound more solid.
@@samlcyo2 yeah I get that part but he said they improve the look. So I was wondering if he keeps a keycaps puller on his desk to pull off a keycap and stare at his beautiful films. Lol
Check to see if the provider/maker/vendor specifies if you can or can not film them. Basically try it out none of this is needed but some people love filming and lubing. For example my gazzew/boba switches are known for having little wobble. So little in fact gazzew himself says it’s a waste of time/resources to do so, however, I have seen people still want to film them for sound benefits using .125mm or thinner films. In fact I’m the type of person to immediately open and properly lube and swap spring on every switch I get my hands on as soon as the package is first opened lol. To decide for yourself try rubbing the top and bottom housing around while the switch is assembled to see how much sliding/movement there is. If there’s too much and it’s affecting the stem/keycap wobble, go ahead and film, if not then you likely can if you want to but it’s not needed.
I have on order two 90 sets of yellow and silver gateron v2's. It will be my first Gats, is tye wobble so common on them, and why am i only coming across this wobble on gaterons now?! Is this just a bad batch or is basically a gateron thing?
Honestly, I don't know (when's the last time a UA-cam said that??). But, I think it's hit or miss--and LIKELY dependent on the housing material. I haven't noticed a ton of wobble on the milky or inky housings, but the standard plastic housings (i.e. if you just ordered the NON-milky Gateron Yellows)--those tend to have more wobble. Again, just my personal experience lately though.
My switches definitely need me to check them to see if they do indeed ‘need wobbling’ as you claim. More wobble is better right? 😉 Also how do I make sure to get these as scratchy as possible, break them in more for more scratch? Not the opposite right? 😜
@@KeebNews i just saw your video and left a comment that left me sone doubts. Ill just copy it here in hope to get some more info: I have on order two 90 sets of yellow and silver gateron v2's. It will be my first Gats, is tye wobble so common on them, and why am i only coming across this wobble on gaterons now?! Is this just a bad batch or is basically a gateron thing?
the worst part was the sound test, why you didn't lube the springs ? It's so pinging, my ears ... Springs should be lubed with krytox 205g0, not with the krytox105 oil crap.
@@OrdinaryAsianGuythe difference is the viscosity, 105 is more like a thick oil whereas 205 is more like a gel, its simply easier to throw all your springs into a bag, add a few drops of 105, and then shake to evenly coat the springs rather than having to individually coat the springs with 205
What a useless product. Then again when dealing with communities they are full of blind fanatics dying to throw money away. I remember many years ago audiophiles claiming that using a special green marker to paint the edge of a CD made the music sound better. LMAO.
The green, or black, marker DOES work. I presume it simply absorbs some stray reflectance and give the receiver diodes & etc., an easier time discerning the edge transitions leading to better timing. I thought by now everyone knew that, over 40 years after CD was rolled out. Also effective was laying a silicon mat on the CD to reduce it's vibration.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
ok real talk. worth it or no? What are your thoughts on switch films?
on gaterons yes. on most other switches no.
@@Zkel__ do you think is it worth on gazzeb boba u4t ?
Super underrated vid. It was so helpful. I was deciding whether to film my pandas or not and I just saved myself ten bucks. Thanks!
I realize that filming makes the switch sound a bit louder but makes also the resonance of the spring more obvious
thank you for this! you explain the topic very well and it makes it super easy to understand 😁
Does it always make them louder? I had hoped to find a solution for making them quieter, in addition to putting foam in the board.
This is very helpful about to film or not film for your switches! ❤
Is there alternative to glorious panda they seem sturdy... Kailh box?
Yo! You could try some Kailh box purples or royals maybe? Those appear to be pretty close in tactical-ness (tactility?).
That said, these are modeled after the Holy Pandas you can find on Drop, though those are priciest probably.
@@KeebNews how about aqua king or boba u4s
@@osirusj275 I haven't tried the Pandas, but Boba U4 are silent tactiles and they have a scratchy feel to them. After a few hundred switch actuations, the scratchiness reduces by more than half I'd say, but they will retain the scratchy feeling to some extent. I use them for my keyboard at work and I don't really have any complaints. Lubing will almost entirely get rid of the scratchiness according to what I've read from others, but you will lose tactility. I haven't tried other silent tactile switches, but the feel may be par for the course.
U4T are the "thocky" version. They are great. Pretty smooth to begin with, most people claim that lubing them offers almost no difference in smoothness. Comparable to the Zealio V2 switches, but with a more rounded bump profile. I am actually using some custom U4Ts from Kirball Keys for my keyboard at home. They have 65g Gazzew springs and were lubed. I can say they feel and sound great. I would say stock U4Ts are a great buy. They are a little cheaper than the Pandas, but you'll be waiting a bit until stock replenishes at all the authorized vendors.
Both Boba switches have practically zero pre-travel. It's likely less than on the Pandas.
@@osirusj275 You can't film the u4T's because of the tight tolerances, I've had trouble to close them sometimes because they wouldn't lock probably its a great switch.
Wait how do films buried inside the switch improve the look of the keyboard? I'm new to keyboard modding and I'm now perplexed
They improve the sound over stock, some switches may have wobble between the top and bottom housing which makes them sound "loose" or "scratchy". Adding the film between the top and bottom housing stops them from wobbling and makes the switches sound more solid.
@@samlcyo2 yeah I get that part but he said they improve the look. So I was wondering if he keeps a keycaps puller on his desk to pull off a keycap and stare at his beautiful films. Lol
Does the nuphy mints need it?
Check to see if the provider/maker/vendor specifies if you can or can not film them. Basically try it out none of this is needed but some people love filming and lubing.
For example my gazzew/boba switches are known for having little wobble. So little in fact gazzew himself says it’s a waste of time/resources to do so, however, I have seen people still want to film them for sound benefits using .125mm or thinner films.
In fact I’m the type of person to immediately open and properly lube and swap spring on every switch I get my hands on as soon as the package is first opened lol.
To decide for yourself try rubbing the top and bottom housing around while the switch is assembled to see how much sliding/movement there is. If there’s too much and it’s affecting the stem/keycap wobble, go ahead and film, if not then you likely can if you want to but it’s not needed.
Great video, I thought that the stem wobble was something bad, but it is something necessary lol, thanks for helping me save some money and time
Great Video! it's just about better sound? Does it makes it more comfortable to type and gamening too?
Comfortable? Probably not..but you CAN feel a difference usually. It feels more "solid," if that makes sense.
Hi, im new to this, I'm thinking about starting with Akko v3 Cream Blue switch, do I need deskey film for it? Thanks
I have akkos and no wobble in none of them... It seems akkos are pretty tight.
I have on order two 90 sets of yellow and silver gateron v2's. It will be my first Gats, is tye wobble so common on them, and why am i only coming across this wobble on gaterons now?!
Is this just a bad batch or is basically a gateron thing?
Honestly, I don't know (when's the last time a UA-cam said that??).
But, I think it's hit or miss--and LIKELY dependent on the housing material.
I haven't noticed a ton of wobble on the milky or inky housings, but the standard plastic housings (i.e. if you just ordered the NON-milky Gateron Yellows)--those tend to have more wobble.
Again, just my personal experience lately though.
My switches definitely need me to check them to see if they do indeed ‘need wobbling’ as you claim. More wobble is better right? 😉
Also how do I make sure to get these as scratchy as possible, break them in more for more scratch? Not the opposite right? 😜
really useful, which is the best feel and silent switch?
common gateron yellow, i need film them?
Probably not! (but always differs from batch to batch). Mine aren't.
@@KeebNews got it, thx for the reply :)
@@KeebNews i just saw your video and left a comment that left me sone doubts. Ill just copy it here in hope to get some more info:
I have on order two 90 sets of yellow and silver gateron v2's. It will be my first Gats, is tye wobble so common on them, and why am i only coming across this wobble on gaterons now?!
Is this just a bad batch or is basically a gateron thing?
thanks for the education
oh, so they're gaskets. neat.
the worst part was the sound test, why you didn't lube the springs ? It's so pinging, my ears ... Springs should be lubed with krytox 205g0, not with the krytox105 oil crap.
Why is that? I never tried lubing switches before but I am researching about it atm. Many people like to use 105 for the spring. Can you explain?
@@OrdinaryAsianGuy just try it out, and you will get the answer directly
@@OrdinaryAsianGuythe difference is the viscosity, 105 is more like a thick oil whereas 205 is more like a gel, its simply easier to throw all your springs into a bag, add a few drops of 105, and then shake to evenly coat the springs rather than having to individually coat the springs with 205
105 isnt crap, u can use both for maximum spring ping reduction
What a useless product. Then again when dealing with communities they are full of blind fanatics dying to throw money away. I remember many years ago audiophiles claiming that using a special green marker to paint the edge of a CD made the music sound better. LMAO.
*buys green marker
@@KeebNews green marker purchased, still looking for CD’s though.
The green, or black, marker DOES work. I presume it simply absorbs some stray reflectance and give the receiver diodes & etc., an easier time discerning the edge transitions leading to better timing. I thought by now everyone knew that, over 40 years after CD was rolled out. Also effective was laying a silicon mat on the CD to reduce it's vibration.