@@jasontancer2595 Shortest route and will also look the cleanest. It might even help with charge air temps not running the piping over the top of the exhaust manifold/behind the engine.
Not gonna lie, I was worried about how outdated or out of place the vr is gonna look in the modern rs3 but the billet valve cover made it look almost like it came with the car. Good call on ordering that👍
I preffer the Gravituned Girdle "block brace" It captures all the main bearing caps not like the others that leave two of the cap bolt out becaue of the oil pump location.
Along with your boost control, put an electronic throttle body on your intake side as a controlled boost leak. Rerout the controlled boost leak into the intake for better efficiency. Once you have a controlled boost leak, you can play with the turbo rpm and turbo boost independently. You can habe your wastegate control the turbo speed, and your boost leak control your boost pressure. For launch control, you can launch at a certain turbo speed while leaking out all the boost, and when the tree drops, close the boost leak so that you have instant boost. Same process for rolling anti lag. If you have any standalone ECU, it will work and a DBW throttle body is like 80 bucks.
EMTRON ECU's boost control model supports this very well. Not every ecu manufacturer can control this strategy very well. The only problem some people have with this control strategy is that it's not very efficient. You're technically blowing out air that's already been compressed (and sometimes cooled if you place the "leak" after the intercooler) vs dumping traditional exhaust gas as done with a WG, all to get a finer control of boost... I think it's a genius idea, but can see how it's not for everyone's situation
@@mushasho oh for sure. However when paired with traditional boost control, it can provide very accurate launch control in rolling and stagong applications. Many of the controlled leak applications do not even use a waste gate because they are using so much boost. The system also provides somewhat redundancy in case one system malfunctions. If you don't want to use a conteolled boost leak, just leave it closed and it seals pretty well and work off the waste gate. If you are goong to use all of your turbo, keep the waste gate closed and control boost off the controlled leak. Also if you route intercooled charge air back i to the turbo, you could see a drop in intake temps.
Stocked with this build, can’t wait wait to see this thing down the drag strip. Curious on why VR6 builds are mostly with R32s and not R36s, have one and thinking on building it...
TheVRS3 coming together i love it, Bill from Schimmel is such a cool guy to I met him like 2 years ago that note was priceless.. also have been seeing that tensioner on his site for a while but not hearing anyone using it please when installing go over the specs for how its installed, Thanks, pure gold as always.
Damn bro can't watch you guys too much. Made me trade my amg in for a rs3 a couple month ago due to the rs3 racing vids, now you guys make me want to vr swap my rs3 in the future and get a b5 to vr swap 😂😂
This is the same size turbo they had on Apollo 11. Amazing work feta fam can you update us with the weight differences between the 5 and the VR when you guys are finished? Very curious.
Turn the turbo around have the exhaust side facing the driver side and rotate the compressor cover 45deg from vertical in relation to the firewall . To get past the frame rail or tighter areas use oval tubing in combination with round tubing with transition pieces to your intercooler . It's not new just look at the piping on the mk4 1.8t or TT for instance. Just make yours COOLER 👍. No hard 90 deg turns so close to your compressor ok ! .I often use hanger wire to mock up or flexible tubing ,your fluids must have a smooth flow .I also agree with removing the steam pipe to the back . 😎
Run the pipes over the gearbox, will be a lot less headache and only have a inlet pipe covering it if you have a problem. But let me just say this is looking amazing, glad I found you guys, I'm wanting to turbo a 3.2 TT and seeing what you guys do is so cool. Keep up the good work!
You and the bro got them people scared because you spending less on a 6 😂 and its older with a new car. Man I can wait to see this bad boy run it!!!!! You guys doing far above par work. Keep going. Even when you finish keep going.
I would use the 90 elbow and route the ic pipes over the gearbox,more space less heat on that side, or i don't know if you guys considered this but maybe go air-water intercooler with a separate water system( no engine coolant) you also could use a larger reservoir for this system and use ice when doing drag racing with the car, and less ic piping so in theory better spool.But yeah love the build guys, nice one👍✌️👉
If there's enough room under the hood you could build an A/W manifold like HPA does. After installing a few on R32's I've grown to appreciate how simple they make the cold side. Frees up a lot of space in the bay. If it wont fit then do an A/W over top of the trans like a lot of big HP Mk3 VRT guys do.
Yeah, definitely make it so the Headlight stays in. I think routing the in/out on the same side will be easier to install/ pull out when need be. The more straight-forward the easier to work with, imho.
you guys should look into a air to water intercooler ! you are doing a first VR6 swap into an rs3 so why not be the first to make a air to water intercooled RS3 set up. you can put the intercooler right on top of the transmission and make super short intercooler piping to improve the spool of that big boy turbo and you can run ice in the water tank when your racing. all the big power drag/street cars use them with awesome success. and your not going to need a big 4in intercooler blocking cooling to the radiator but another thin rad in the front, for the water. even all the OEM manufactures are starting to move into water intercoolers like M3/4, hellcat, cla45 and the list goes on.
Recirc the wastegate into the downpipe looks like it'd be easily done, or send it out the fender. Not being able to reach the wastegate easily when the motors hot like @ the track is asss. Point the compressor housing straight up and cut/weld a vibrant 90 on it going towards the drivers side. Then route piping all on the throttle body side, inside the engine bay where its easily accessible. Maybe add some clamshell clamps so its easily removed if you need to get to the trans. Maybe use ss for your ic piping? I chose to use ss cause it's stronger than the same size in alum. But is a muuch smaller gauge saving you space. A good comparison is to take a cut of 3 inch alum ic piping and put it next to some 16gauge ss exhaust tube. Those 034 pucks are the tits.
Have you thought about the front and back engine movement during hard accelaration and gear shifts? Looks like that turbo is right at the limit as far as touching the firewall.
Would you be able to clock the cold side output upwards and putting a 90 deg towards the driver side? Definitely better and colder piping if both intercooler piping is ran on the driver side
I’d say half race car half street car. Do some tube work on the front end to eliminate a lot of the stamped front end supports and allow you to make inlet and intercooler piping and keep your head light. Plus when you go to race you can pull the headlight and put a turbo guard on the pipe right behind the headlight to give a Ram air effect.
Not from experience but, from a visual, practical and engineering point of view, run the intercooler piping all on the driver's side to allow you to keep the headlight assembly. Ability to license, tag and insure the car for street usage I think is important.
@@nicklarson801 I see, another knock on CA. In CA you can not do anything without having some sort of official in power giving you the "right" to do whatever it is that you are trying to do. I could not deal with that, way too invasive , so much more work, cost and effort.
You'll also get better boost control with the WG closer to the collector... I say chop that down or go for the best control and weld the WG straight on housing. It'll be compact and accessible and permit clearance of a sizeable downpipe. As far as piping, do whatever you can to keep the headlight...
It looks to me like you'd have a ton of room to run an A2W on the driver side over the trans. I wouldn't even consider running the IC pipe over the manifold and around, way too much heat and piping even if you didn't have to lose a headlight for it. Much cleaner and probably simpler in the long run to run the IC pipes on the driver side. I don't know what the underside of these engine bays look like, could you just mount the WG on the end of the first pipe coming off the collector? Looks like that would give you enough room for a down pipe, and you could do a 2 piece down pipe (picture an L with vbands on both ends, then the complicated bends on the second half) so you could access the waste gate from the top if that would be too much of a pain in that spot from the bottom. Definitely looks like a solvable problem. Cool build, interested to see how it comes together.
please please provide a review of the VVT delete plates from Schimmel, I just built a 11.5:1 84.5mm JE/IE 24v 3.2 block, put in just regular 264 260 cams, and was wondering about the schimmel plates
Hey guys have a look into air to water inter cooler and also turbo smart is selling electronic waste gate that might work the part for you. keep it up loving the channel and your work.
Get rid of brake booster put pedal box in run piping away from heat source as described in the first part of the video. Put in single entree and exit on same side intercooler , run wastegate into down pipe . Cannot wait for the old vr6 engine to smash rs3 5 cylinder engine
Nonsense, look at the RS3 5 cylinders with 1300 hp coming out of Europe, not hating on these guys and think this is an interesting build, however they could have gotten the same if not more HP and Torque with the original 5 cylinder RS3 for about the same $$ to get a brand new RS3 to 1300 hp cost around 50/60k what you think these boys are spending?
We opted with the larger head studs and will have to tap the block for the larger studs. Unfortunately the 3.2 comes with smaller head studs then it’s 2.8 cousins
could you not spin the turbo 180° so the compressor housing is facing the other side of the engine bay and run the inter cooler piping down the back and around the side of the engine to the front, obviously you would need to move the wastegate position
I think you got it with the 90degree fitting right off the turbo and run intercooler pipes on top of trans. The piping would be away from all the exhaust/turbo heat too. I like the wastegate where it’s at, like you said, easy accessibility! Pie cuts on the Downpipe will be the way to go, they’re easy to put together and avoid things. You can also put your exhaust/downpipe in your press you got, press the tube and “oval” it out to clearance things as well if a spot is too tight🤙 Looking forward to see the DP pistons/rods, they have 21mm pins right?? We just put together a VR and also installed new intermediate shaft bearings, I have a vid up ua-cam.com/video/06mJ8kSMyNU/v-deo.html And briefly cover how we installed them. They’re kinda tough, just take your time and keep them straight!! Also that “plug” that caps off the small bearing side of the intermediate bearing. We drove the cap in until it stopped in the bore. We got a small camera in there and noticed it covered up about half of the drain hole that’s in there. So when you press/hit that in, don’t go all the way till it stops, leave a couple mm before it bottoms out so the drain is open 100%.. this was on a 2,8 24v so thinking maybe the same on 3,2🤙 Just figured I’d throw that out there because it’s something I noticed/remember. Love the VR vids🎉, keep it up🔥
Hey guys I know this is a dumb question but would you take a 2.7 vs vr6 for a street able swap in a B6 A4? I just bought a 2.7 but the more I see these. I'm not sure. What would you say is the best option for around 500 awhp
Run them On the same side, I’d you flip over the exhaust the exhaust will heat the piping and you won’t get it as cool as you want even with a heat shield it will still not be as cool as it could be
@15:00 When you said you wanted headlights....the look on stavs face ...like he was like what the fuck you’re trying to run headlights on this car?..The look on his face..... he was so fucking baffled
I have a mk4 12v vr6 my intak6 manifold exploded and it runs a little rich I replaced the evap purge valve I need help, also do you know of any n a long runner metal intake manifolds?
hello malaka liked for a vr62.8i 204hp engine the turbo would like to know the list of the material I need to change the turbo to 450hp if you have links to the parts to buy it was great
Use the original exhaust and have a boost valve 3 or 4 inch dump out the bonnet. It only opens when you hit 7or 10 psi . KEEP THE camera in one place I am dizzy looking at the screen ..!!
I would run an air to water intercooler, then set up an interchiller being that you guys are running Aircon. This would be the shortest pipe run for the cooler
Not sure what the future will bring, but we’re always down to kick off new journeys, as for the camshafts compatibility, we’re not sure, but we’ll see if we can find out.
Thank you 🙏 As for the bracelet, being a veteran we support “Till Valhalla” project. tilvalhallaproject.com/collections/memorial-bracelets/products/22-star-t-v-p-memorial-bracelet
I like the idea of running the cooler piping on the same side
Take the shortest route 👍
@@jasontancer2595 Shortest route and will also look the cleanest. It might even help with charge air temps not running the piping over the top of the exhaust manifold/behind the engine.
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Why ditch the 5 cyclinder
@@davereid8585 Cos #Malaka Motorsport is VR6 and feta powered historically and putting their roots into the shiny new dress
Not gonna lie, I was worried about how outdated or out of place the vr is gonna look in the modern rs3 but the billet valve cover made it look almost like it came with the car. Good call on ordering that👍
I preffer the Gravituned Girdle "block brace" It captures all the main bearing caps not like the others that leave two of the cap bolt out becaue of the oil pump location.
Having haters will make you guys more marketable.....Build is gonna be sick ...keep up the good work
Along with your boost control, put an electronic throttle body on your intake side as a controlled boost leak. Rerout the controlled boost leak into the intake for better efficiency. Once you have a controlled boost leak, you can play with the turbo rpm and turbo boost independently. You can habe your wastegate control the turbo speed, and your boost leak control your boost pressure.
For launch control, you can launch at a certain turbo speed while leaking out all the boost, and when the tree drops, close the boost leak so that you have instant boost. Same process for rolling anti lag. If you have any standalone ECU, it will work and a DBW throttle body is like 80 bucks.
EMTRON ECU's boost control model supports this very well. Not every ecu manufacturer can control this strategy very well.
The only problem some people have with this control strategy is that it's not very efficient.
You're technically blowing out air that's already been compressed (and sometimes cooled if you place the "leak" after the intercooler) vs dumping traditional exhaust gas as done with a WG, all to get a finer control of boost...
I think it's a genius idea, but can see how it's not for everyone's situation
@@mushasho oh for sure. However when paired with traditional boost control, it can provide very accurate launch control in rolling and stagong applications. Many of the controlled leak applications do not even use a waste gate because they are using so much boost. The system also provides somewhat redundancy in case one system malfunctions. If you don't want to use a conteolled boost leak, just leave it closed and it seals pretty well and work off the waste gate. If you are goong to use all of your turbo, keep the waste gate closed and control boost off the controlled leak. Also if you route intercooled charge air back i to the turbo, you could see a drop in intake temps.
Stocked with this build, can’t wait wait to see this thing down the drag strip. Curious on why VR6 builds are mostly with R32s and not R36s, have one and thinking on building it...
Perhaps it's the Direct injection aspect @@alejok04
Run an air to water on top of the transmission like a lot of VR guys do.
“For science” HAH. As an aspiring b5/vr6 head, you are my idols. Keep paving the way brothas, you guys are next level.
TheVRS3 coming together i love it, Bill from Schimmel is such a cool guy to I met him like 2 years ago that note was priceless.. also have been seeing that tensioner on his site for a while but not hearing anyone using it please when installing go over the specs for how its installed, Thanks, pure gold as always.
Damn bro can't watch you guys too much. Made me trade my amg in for a rs3 a couple month ago due to the rs3 racing vids, now you guys make me want to vr swap my rs3 in the future and get a b5 to vr swap 😂😂
Hahaha 💪💪💪
Keep the intercooler piping to the driverside and get a trans cooler to keep heat from that going into the system
This is the same size turbo they had on Apollo 11. Amazing work feta fam can you update us with the weight differences between the 5 and the VR when you guys are finished? Very curious.
Turn the turbo around have the exhaust side facing the driver side and rotate the compressor cover 45deg from vertical in relation to the firewall . To get past the frame rail or tighter areas use oval tubing in combination with round tubing with transition pieces to your intercooler . It's not new just look at the piping on the mk4 1.8t or TT for instance. Just make yours COOLER 👍. No hard 90 deg turns so close to your compressor ok ! .I often use hanger wire to mock up or flexible tubing ,your fluids must have a smooth flow .I also agree with removing the steam pipe to the back . 😎
All intercooler pipes on the driver side. It will look cleaner and easier access! Keep up the good work
💪💪💪💪
Run the pipes over the gearbox, will be a lot less headache and only have a inlet pipe covering it if you have a problem. But let me just say this is looking amazing, glad I found you guys, I'm wanting to turbo a 3.2 TT and seeing what you guys do is so cool. Keep up the good work!
Appreciate the kind words and thank you for the support.
🙏🙏🙏
You and the bro got them people scared because you spending less on a 6 😂 and its older with a new car. Man I can wait to see this bad boy run it!!!!! You guys doing far above par work. Keep going. Even when you finish keep going.
You guys are doing it right. No boundaries and let the haters hate lol 😂 you have to break all rules to go faster !!! Malaka swap the world !!!
Run piping in the same side (drivers side). Both the inlet and outlet can be on the same same side of the intercooler, the top and the bottom.
Underrated channel great build love the content!!!
Definitely keep the head light!!! I’m super excited for this build I want to see how you guys do the harness so I can mimic!! LOL💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Both pipes running on the same side looks like it work best. Love it💪🏾💪🏾
I say test out the downpipe before moving the wastegate, but for sure run the charge piping on the same side.
I would use the 90 elbow and route the ic pipes over the gearbox,more space less heat on that side, or i don't know if you guys considered this but maybe go air-water intercooler with a separate water system( no engine coolant) you also could use a larger reservoir for this system and use ice when doing drag racing with the car, and less ic piping so in theory better spool.But yeah love the build guys, nice one👍✌️👉
If there's enough room under the hood you could build an A/W manifold like HPA does. After installing a few on R32's I've grown to appreciate how simple they make the cold side. Frees up a lot of space in the bay. If it wont fit then do an A/W over top of the trans like a lot of big HP Mk3 VRT guys do.
MalakaMS you guys made me wait too long for this video lol
Haha , we are trying to get better lol 😂
Have you guys looked into building the transmission to counteract drivetrain loss...because that Audi's Achilles heel...
Yeah, definitely make it so the Headlight stays in. I think routing the in/out on the same side will be easier to install/ pull out when need be. The more straight-forward the easier to work with, imho.
Put a water to air intercooler right where to battery use to be , straight shot into the intake manifild💯👊🏾💪🏾
Run the piping on the driver side like the a/s3, exits intercooler on passenger side and wraps back around to intake mani.
you guys should look into a air to water intercooler ! you are doing a first VR6 swap into an rs3 so why not be the first to make a air to water intercooled RS3 set up. you can put the intercooler right on top of the transmission and make super short intercooler piping to improve the spool of that big boy turbo and you can run ice in the water tank when your racing. all the big power drag/street cars use them with awesome success. and your not going to need a big 4in intercooler blocking cooling to the radiator but another thin rad in the front, for the water. even all the OEM manufactures are starting to move into water intercoolers like M3/4, hellcat, cla45 and the list goes on.
Recirc the wastegate into the downpipe looks like it'd be easily done, or send it out the fender. Not being able to reach the wastegate easily when the motors hot like @ the track is asss.
Point the compressor housing straight up and cut/weld a vibrant 90 on it going towards the drivers side. Then route piping all on the throttle body side, inside the engine bay where its easily accessible. Maybe add some clamshell clamps so its easily removed if you need to get to the trans.
Maybe use ss for your ic piping? I chose to use ss cause it's stronger than the same size in alum. But is a muuch smaller gauge saving you space. A good comparison is to take a cut of 3 inch alum ic piping and put it next to some 16gauge ss exhaust tube.
Those 034 pucks are the tits.
Intercooler on the same side and use the factory lights.that manifold and turbo looks Ace!!
Super excited guys can’t wait until it’s all done
Can you guys do the wastegate/stovepipe go to the drivers side where there seems to be more room? Because that turbo is massive.
Have you thought about the front and back engine movement during hard accelaration and gear shifts? Looks like that turbo is right at the limit as far as touching the firewall.
Do not run cold air piping over the exhaust manifold, it will heat up air you're trying to cool down. Run both on the drivers side of the engine.
Such an awesome build. Can't wait to turbo my Mk4 R32. I think you should make it street-able! Go over the trans! This is gonna be awesome!
Same side inlet/outlet would be the best move, you do a water cooled setup in that space and not even run the piping to the front.
Would you be able to clock the cold side output upwards and putting a 90 deg towards the driver side? Definitely better and colder piping if both intercooler piping is ran on the driver side
I was going to suggest reclocking the housing, also. Keep it simple and clean. Also, the turbo manifold is a thing of beauty. Glad it's working out.
I’d say half race car half street car. Do some tube work on the front end to eliminate a lot of the stamped front end supports and allow you to make inlet and intercooler piping and keep your head light. Plus when you go to race you can pull the headlight and put a turbo guard on the pipe right behind the headlight to give a Ram air effect.
Not from experience but, from a visual, practical and engineering point of view, run the intercooler piping all on the driver's side to allow you to keep the headlight assembly. Ability to license, tag and insure the car for street usage I think is important.
They are in CA. They are going to need a "friend" to pass the car anyway simply due to the motor swap alone.
@@nicklarson801 I see, another knock on CA. In CA you can not do anything without having some sort of official in power giving you the "right" to do whatever it is that you are trying to do. I could not deal with that, way too invasive , so much more work, cost and effort.
Love ya guys love the material every video fellas
You'll also get better boost control with the WG closer to the collector... I say chop that down or go for the best control and weld the WG straight on housing. It'll be compact and accessible and permit clearance of a sizeable downpipe.
As far as piping, do whatever you can to keep the headlight...
My thoughts exactly. 👍🏽
I think the piping on the same side sounds like a good plan
Cannot wait to see this run
It looks to me like you'd have a ton of room to run an A2W on the driver side over the trans. I wouldn't even consider running the IC pipe over the manifold and around, way too much heat and piping even if you didn't have to lose a headlight for it. Much cleaner and probably simpler in the long run to run the IC pipes on the driver side.
I don't know what the underside of these engine bays look like, could you just mount the WG on the end of the first pipe coming off the collector? Looks like that would give you enough room for a down pipe, and you could do a 2 piece down pipe (picture an L with vbands on both ends, then the complicated bends on the second half) so you could access the waste gate from the top if that would be too much of a pain in that spot from the bottom.
Definitely looks like a solvable problem. Cool build, interested to see how it comes together.
Hi George and Stavros, I can't wait to finally see more vids from you gents 😉👍👍
pure gold content as per usual boys
What are you guys doing with the 3.6l vr6 motor,can't find any performance parts for those would love to get your input
Sound, sound, sound.💪💪
please please provide a review of the VVT delete plates from Schimmel, I just built a 11.5:1 84.5mm JE/IE 24v 3.2 block, put in just regular 264 260 cams, and was wondering about the schimmel plates
Hey guys have a look into air to water inter cooler and also turbo smart is selling electronic waste gate that might work the part for you. keep it up loving the channel and your work.
Appreciate the recommendation and kind words and support, thank you 🙏
Do not sacrifice the headlight!
keep the headlight, make it street legall 🤘🏻
Get rid of brake booster put pedal box in run piping away from heat source as described in the first part of the video. Put in single entree and exit on same side intercooler , run wastegate into down pipe . Cannot wait for the old vr6 engine to smash rs3 5 cylinder engine
Nonsense, look at the RS3 5 cylinders with 1300 hp coming out of Europe, not hating on these guys and think this is an interesting build, however they could have gotten the same if not more HP and Torque with the original 5 cylinder RS3 for about the same $$ to get a brand new RS3 to 1300 hp cost around 50/60k what you think these boys are spending?
All chargepipes thru driver side to not sacrafice passenger headlight or a.c lines
Looks F***** SICK 💥💥💥💥💥
do the girdle kits come with the 10mm arp main studs or the 11mm (which require tapping?) (USP Motorsports has the kit for no tapping btw)
We opted with the larger head studs and will have to tap the block for the larger studs. Unfortunately the 3.2 comes with smaller head studs then it’s 2.8 cousins
You could do a water to air intercooler and it would all fit on the driver side.
might also need a remote oil filter by the looks of the turbo outlet with a 90 and the filter underneath it
could you not spin the turbo 180° so the compressor housing is facing the other side of the engine bay and run the inter cooler piping down the back and around the side of the engine to the front, obviously you would need to move the wastegate position
Boost pipes in same side. It's cleaner look and not have so hot like exhaust manifold side.
I think you got it with the 90degree fitting right off the turbo and run intercooler pipes on top of trans. The piping would be away from all the exhaust/turbo heat too. I like the wastegate where it’s at, like you said, easy accessibility! Pie cuts on the Downpipe will be the way to go, they’re easy to put together and avoid things. You can also put your exhaust/downpipe in your press you got, press the tube and “oval” it out to clearance things as well if a spot is too tight🤙
Looking forward to see the DP pistons/rods, they have 21mm pins right??
We just put together a VR and also installed new intermediate shaft bearings, I have a vid up
ua-cam.com/video/06mJ8kSMyNU/v-deo.html
And briefly cover how we installed them. They’re kinda tough, just take your time and keep them straight!! Also that “plug” that caps off the small bearing side of the intermediate bearing. We drove the cap in until it stopped in the bore. We got a small camera in there and noticed it covered up about half of the drain hole that’s in there. So when you press/hit that in, don’t go all the way till it stops, leave a couple mm before it bottoms out so the drain is open 100%.. this was on a 2,8 24v so thinking maybe the same on 3,2🤙
Just figured I’d throw that out there because it’s something I noticed/remember.
Love the VR vids🎉, keep it up🔥
Hey guys I know this is a dumb question but would you take a 2.7 vs vr6 for a street able swap in a B6 A4? I just bought a 2.7 but the more I see these. I'm not sure. What would you say is the best option for around 500 awhp
hood exit would be badass!
I rather the pipes on the same side less hassle
Run them On the same side, I’d you flip over the exhaust the exhaust will heat the piping and you won’t get it as cool as you want even with a heat shield it will still not be as cool as it could be
Can you flip the turbo around so it’s more a traditional routing?
Can i swap a vr6 or an rs3 engine into my audi a3 8v ? Its because the a3 is my first car but its slow 🐌
same side piping would be better and keep the headlight
mby do a water ic ? i do have one and they offers 1400 hp ic ;)
3.6 vrs3 would be sick
Make a hole in the hood and a hump for the intake on the right side
Couldnt u maybe get a inlet manifold with a throttle on the passanger side.
Inlet and outlet on the same side
Would that valve cover fit into a vr6 3.6?
@15:00 When you said you wanted headlights....the look on stavs face ...like he was like what the fuck you’re trying to run headlights on this car?..The look on his face..... he was so fucking baffled
You know you bought the right turbo when it's that hard to get it to fit haha
Love the videos guys
I have a mk4 12v vr6 my intak6 manifold exploded and it runs a little rich I replaced the evap purge valve I need help, also do you know of any n a long runner metal intake manifolds?
Water to air cooler must you do
KEEP THE HEADLIGHT !!!!!!!
hello malaka liked for a vr62.8i 204hp engine the turbo would like to know the list of the material I need to change the turbo to 450hp if you have links to the parts to buy it was great
Do what works best, and simplest to work on. #racecar
Use the original exhaust and have a boost valve 3 or 4 inch dump out the bonnet. It only opens when you hit 7or 10 psi . KEEP THE camera in one place I am dizzy looking at the screen ..!!
Same side pipe. Keep the headlights. This car MUST look stock!
I would run an air to water intercooler, then set up an interchiller being that you guys are running Aircon. This would be the shortest pipe run for the cooler
Either way, keep it streetable
Stav raw doggin his eyes this episode
I think piping should be on the passenger side
Add a lightbar for head lights
Purists are pissed because they didn’t think of it first. 💪💪
dumb question are you using stock main caps
Not a dumb question, we are and will go into more detail after we get the engine back from the machine shop for assembly. 💪💪
How reliable is a high hp vr6 like this one?
That valve cover is worth twice as much as my MK4. What do you guys do for a living other than youtube?
VR6 !!
Will you guys ever upgrade the 3.6 and does the camshaft of the 3.2 fit the 3.6 ??
Not sure what the future will bring, but we’re always down to kick off new journeys, as for the camshafts compatibility, we’re not sure, but we’ll see if we can find out.
Bro do you have a discount code for Iroz Motorsports?! Just picked up a 2018 RS3 and need to mod it immediately... LOL
VR6 Swap it 💪💪
@@MalakaMotorSports yh take that crappy engine out and replace it with a glorious vr6 lmao
love the builds. do me one favor please. give your yai yais bracelet back....lol.
Thank you 🙏
As for the bracelet, being a veteran we support “Till Valhalla” project.
tilvalhallaproject.com/collections/memorial-bracelets/products/22-star-t-v-p-memorial-bracelet
🔥
i say, run it at the bottom of the engine like the mk5 r32 turbo kits