Great video, very useful. One comment: "Release shutter without a lens" is a useful option when you are using third-party lenses that the camera does not recognize. When having this setting off, the camera will give an error message saying that there is no lens connected. But when this is on, the camera will shoot even when it thinks there is no lens, even though there actually is one. I am not sure if R5 reacts like this with third-party lenses, but my Canon M6ii mirrorless definitely did, and this setting was extremely useful.
Back in Aug or Sept of 2020, I set my r5 up for 3 back buttons as you described here. After months of shooting like that, I found that during intense action, my thumb would hit the wrong one (not AF-On, but the other two). Frankly, I think Canon put them too close together. I don't have extremely large fingers, either, so others who do have a "fat" thumb may find that using 3 back buttons doesn't work for them. What I finally decided to do is to make #2 and #3 back buttons do exactly the same thing. This way, I get what I want with no fear of hitting the wrong one. And another thing I found, which was surprising and may have something to do with how I changed settings over time, is the custom buttons keep the AWB setting I had when I originally set up the camera. I later changed to K, but those buttons kept AWB, which really screwed things up for me when setting buttons and finding my WB all over the map. So someone who wants to shoot K should be sure to set WB on each custom button just to be sure. Thank for the video. Reviewing settings after 6 months or so is a useful thing.
I really appreciate this update, especially your discovering (and sharing) the part about assigning different AF modes to three different back buttons to facilitate switching between AF modes rapidly and easily. Very ingenious. A great idea. Also thanks for the clarification concerning lenses with multiple IS settings that is really useful and helpful knowledge to have including the thought that shooting at relatively high shutter speeds can often negate the need for IS & IBIS all together. Great stuff.
Thanks for your useful tips on setting up the R5 for bird photography.
I've got a possible workaround for the Canon R5/LP-E6NH sad battery life. (Others viewers may have come across this, or a similar solution already). I used this setup just once in the field, so far. I went to an estuary in my area and had my Canon R5 powered on continuously for a full 3 hours and utilized about 3/4 of my battery, shooting mostly video. My gear list is below. Just be very careful about which dummy battery you choose. You'll want one that actually regulates the voltage down to 8.0 volts. If you search UA-cam, there are R5 owners who bricked their R5 because they used a dummy battery that was meant to be paired with an AC wall adapter that output 8.0 volts. If you've got a voltmeter handy, you'll feel more confident if you measure the output of an LP-E6NH and then measure the output of the setup below, before you actually install the dummy battery into your Canon camera. One more tech tip: When I got back home, it only took one hour to recharge the battery back to 100% capacity. The latest battery chargers use GaN III / PD 3.0 technology for cooler operation and reduced physical size. 65W and 100W versions are typical. My alternate Canon R5 battery setup: - GyroVu D-Tap to Canon LP-E6 Intelligent Dummy Battery - FXLion Nano One V-Mount Battey - SmallRig Mini V-Lock battery Plate with Belt Clip Thanks!
I am new to the R5, and found your video excellent in terms of setting up for birds. I was amazed to hear what you were saying about I.S and IBIS,. I need to listen again to get it all in. So thank you very much. Andy Jersey UK.
Thanks for this, especially like the spot autofocus being activated with one button instead of requiring two buttons to be pressed simultaneously as in your previous video.
I'm confused, so I set everything up; love it, fantastic !. You nailed it. My head cant wrap around AF Servo, so now its set to Case 2 with the sensitivity -2 , and accel +2. That's for panning fast-moving Birds; use BBF with eye detection or spot; it should track, right? So, the question is if I go to shoot a non-fast bird, say sitting... do I leave Servo AF as is and lens IS on, in the same settings, or should I change something else? (ie. Case 1, ? IS would be a benefit in low light hand held, etc... I think Im confused when does Servo AF kick in and should I change modes? If yes, how?... whats easier than diving into MENU AF menu 3 ?? Also, I keep hearing Mode 1 and 2, that's on my len's? All my lenses are at Canon... cant look at them (have one RF ,800f/11; the others are EF's 70-200 ii; 100-400ii, 16-35 4.0, 24-105 4.0). Thanks for the help... ;-)
Superb video full of great tips. Out of interest, your Case 2 adjustments for birds in flight, would they be as useful for a moving bird on the ground perched birds? I do all and want to find a settings that works without having to fiddle with it depending on the subject.
Hi Ron! I just watched this latest update from you. I want you to know that I watched about 30 different "how to set up" videos for bird photography a year ago after being so frustrated with trying to figure out the R6 focusing system. Your video on settings that I watched back then is what got me rolling. I have thoroughly enjoy photographing birds since then. Thank you so much for being the first one that I found that knew what the hell they were talking about. I've always said that there were people who knew how to photograph and then there were people who made videos. You sir, do both well. I'll take these latest changes in your setup and use what works for me, now that I've learned over the past year how to fine tune things. Thank you!
I want to add in my reference my post yesterday, I just wanted to add I heard you say IS can be off at higher shutter speeds, I get that, at 2waht, over 1500?? Still don't fully get the AF Servo (default menu set to Zone AF, or Large Zone AF: Horizontal).AF Servo set to Case 2 setting; when and what to do if the bird is still?
Thanks for another great and helpful video Ron! A couple of suggestions...I don't want to sound critical, just trying to help. First off, something is up with your audio. The audio for your intro and conclusion are fine but for everything in-between I only hear audio in the left channel, nothing in the right. The I've noticed this with a few of your videos. Maybe it's just me somehow? Second, it might be helpful to flag the more recent changes you've made for those of us who have already watched the earlier video, so we know exactly what you've changed more recently instead of having to watch the whole video. Thanks again for all the help you pass along to the community!
Aloha from Honolulu, Can't thank you enough for sharing your R5 thoughts. So, so helpful. I am shooting birds in tough situations and it's not easy making the 80D to R5 leap. Truly appreciate the time you put into sharing what you've learned-and updating it! As I've not, typically, shot in M (Manual) - I've gone for TV with a high shutter speed on my 80D, and with good results - would be curious about your thoughts about shooting in M. I'll be experimenting with M, but some sage guidance would nice. If you've already done this, I'll find it! Mahalo nui loa again!
Wrong about the RAW vs cRAW . RAW is already somewhat compressed, cRAW is further compressed, meaning that it becomes increasingly more difficult to effectively denoise high isos due to the addittional compression. Denoising iso 25600 is possible with RAW, cRAW less so. If you have the space, shoot raw.
I have not found this to be the case, but I admit I do not shoot at ISO 25600, ever. For up to ISO 4000 cRAW and RAW perform the same for me. Moreover, it is not just about space, it is about buffer performance and processing as well.
Just a suggestion about the way you comment. Your comments are worded as if you are all knowing and how you think about and do things is the only correct way, or is absolutely fact. You may consider stating that for "you" AWB is fine and "you" find RAW is better then cRAW for how you shoot. Because, others may not find your exclusive terminology and thinking to be correct or best for how they shoot. You will get more people to read and listen to what you have to offer if you make suggestions rather than acrimonious statements. I do my best in my videos to state this is how I have found things to work best for "me" and I make suggestions not statements. I fail at this sometimes, but it is my goal.
@@whistlingwingsphotography ok mate, but, plenty of viewers will hang on your every word, and, after watching your video might believe that there is no benefit in shooting the full sized RAW. I have only done minimal, testing on denoising my R5, but, I was not encouraged in the few iso25600 and 51200 craw denoising tests I did. Or, just shoot full RAW. Both produce the same sized 260MB file when exported as a16bit tiff from DPP, to continue my work flow. Not many youtubers advocate denoising chrominance an luminace separatey (as I do). Fyi, I denoise the chrominance fairly hard, and the luminance mildly. But... fine pinprick pixel sized noise - looks like a fine film grain, denoises the most sucessfully for me, but, in my limited testing, I didnt see that fine noise structure with craw. But hey, what do I know ? I enter comps frequently enough, and won my first wildlife comp (at club level) with an image taken @ iso6400 on a 5D3 (a 2012 camera). The judge could not believe it was shot at iso6400 when we chatted after... Anyhows, I suspect we might both agree that there is more to learn re the merits of shooting raw or craw with a R5. Btw, I do enjoy your videos and find them informative, however, I believe there is more to learn about CRAW, and more to that story. Respectfully.
Does the "subject to detect" option set to animals only apply when eye detection is used? I'm setting up BBF specifically AF-ON button for normal focusing without eye detection, but set to1 Point AF. Will "subject to detect" animals be ignored and use "none"? I set up the * button with eye detection. I'm a bird photographer and want to be able to prefocus on perches and nests without the R5 AF searching for an animal.
i use my second card as a backup. over 25 years, i've had 4 cards go bad. rare, but it happens. the last 2 were SanDisk which is why i don't use SanDisk anymore.
Some good points but boy are you missing a trick in not using Auto ISO. For anything apart from controlled lighting situations auto ISO is the single biggest advancement since the camera was invented. Not sure if it's old school pride or some other reason (The reasons you give don't make sense) but I strongly recommend people try auto ISO and not just disable this as per Whistling Wings. It's perfect for birds in flight. If you pan with a bird where the lighting on the bird changes (pretty much every time you shoot a bird in flight!) auto ISO manages this perfectly. You do need to make sure you are using partial or spot metering. You also don't turn on "Safety Shift" Why on earth not? In combination with Auto ISO and shooting shutter priority the two things pretty much guarantee a well exposed bird. Sure, you might not get the exact shutter speed you want in some situations but better than a badly under or overexposed bird. Do love your recommended setup for quickly changing focus method using customizable buttons.
Hi Ron. After years of watching the evolution of mirrorless cameras my wife and I finally took the plunge and each bought R5 plus 100-500 zoom and invested in all the bits and bobs. Very happy with initial results on static/slow/large subjects but pretty rapidly got to point of deciding to selling all kit again once we tried and failed miserably with birds in flight. Results were truly dreadful, against a history of success and multiple awards etc with the trusty 1DX series. Fortunately we didn't actually sell. Watched your introductory video on the R5 + 100-500, and now most of the way through this one - think you might have saved us! Still very early days but within minutes of applying some of your tips and settings, what an improvement! We need to keep listening to you and applying; I am sure we have a lot to learn and get used to. As I say, very early days, but the the two things that still worry me (I am sure you will have addressed these somewhere) are 1. getting our heads around that when you zoom in on a high megapixel camera things look less sharp than on a lower megapixel - you have explained that in passing but we need to really get to grips with that, and 2. more concerning at moment is the fact that for moving subjects to be sharp you say we need considerably higher speeds than with 1DX series; that translates into much higher ISO, and as we live in UK where good light is often lacking, plus we often take in low light evenings and mornings when creatures tend to be more active, the high speed & high ISO thing still feels like an issue because of noise. However, just the two of your videos we have watched so far have given us the confidence that we will get cracking results with this kit once we learn how to use it - so we will persevere till we understand capabilities and limits properly. The two of your videos we have watched so far are really great and I can assure you I will do my homework by watching all the rest. You are a star. Thank you.
Hey, thanks so much. I am so glad you found the videos informative. Don’t give up on the R5 it is very good as is the 100-500. Super IS capabilities for sure. Ron
Thank you for such an indepth video. This will cetainly assist me in setting up my camera. I would just like to add that if you remove your lens and go to the red camera setting in the menu and Tab 7 IS(stabilizer) mode is shown but not when a lens is fitted. Select it and you can choose on or off, Still photo IS Always or one shot and then Focal Length and im not sure what that means. What length do you suggest and what are they referring too. Would love some feed back.
When customizing buttons while you are in a video mode, say C3 Video, what does the photo column of buttons actually do? I am seeing that it does nothing. The settings seem to be ignored. Instead, when you flip to photo mode, it will honor your settings that had been set in C3 photo mode.
Hi Ron! Thanks for another highly informative video on the R5. I appreciate your approach to the settings and your logic as to why you set up as you do. Got a giggle for the lens IBIS settings..... Cheers, Vicki
Thank you for the tip to be able to set the AF Point Button to spot focus. I was able to do this before but, I had to hold down both that and the AE Lock button to get the spot focus. One problem I had with your method was that when I set my settings and hit the register current setting tab, it defaulted to the animal eye auto focus. My work around was to go through the set up and don't register it. Now when I hit the AF Point Button, I get the spot focus to work.
Great video. Straight forward, detailed, explained and illustrated well. The last "Customize Buttons" setting could be a game-changer. The IBIS/IS functionality discussion at the end clarifies questions I and others have had ... very helpful and important. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks! This video saved me a lot of frustration. I had 5 days to photograph bald eagles last week. I thought I had it set up properly based on BIF R5 set-up videos. The first two days of images were not a good as I had hopped for. At the hotel, I watched this video and made some adjustments to my EOS R5 and it made all the difference in the world. What you do matters my friend. Thanks again!
Hello. Enjoying this video a lot. A few quick questions: on the Cases in AF tab, if I was to edit case 2 like your edits, is it then activated when I'm using my AF back button to lock focus, or do I need to set to Case 2 each time I'm doing a shoot? I do mostly fast action, and so was thinking it's most similar to birds in flight (I don't do much bird photography, more sports, concerts, news etc) but figured Case 2 may help keep me locked in better. I'm finding my focus subject to bounce around a lot on my R5 but not on my R6MII. Trying to figure out what I have set differently. Next question: I'm having a heck of a time getting AF Eye focus to work on the R5. It's working beautifully on my R6MII. I like having the AF button to be set for Metering and AF + the 9 square focus mode. Than my * to be AF Eye. But, whenever I hit AF Eye - it only gives me the "can't find anything" squares. I know in my heart it's probably a simple setting difference that I have - but can't seem to figure out what. I often get either the Orange circle (that looks somewhat like this >>. ( ) but other direction.
I'd still love to get insights on the above questions, but will say I completed the full video - and I think these changes may really help me a great deal! I found some items I didn't have set in the same way as WWP, and now that I have - I noticed eye focus is actually occurring. Still interested in the Cases question. I like the idea of cases, but I'm struggling to fully understand them. At the end, the discussion on IS and IBIS was raised - and I think what I'm hearing is for my Canon 100-500, I need to turn off IS on the lens, if I'm shooting at high shutter speeds. For concerts, I shoot at 1/1600 - 1/2000 a lot. So sounds like I don't need it.
Just got my R5. Updated fw to 1.4. Tried to do the following: Customize Buttons -> AF point button register/recall shooting func -> info detail set Checked only: AF method, Both Tracking and AF Operation. When I try to Register Current Settings, they are reset to defaults. What am I doing wrong? I can not find any information on "Register Custom Settings" operation. Can you please help?
tony, please read the Note section in the video Description. I made an error in the video. When you are done setting up the button do not hit "Register Current Settings" and you should be fine.
Thank you, Ron. On the R6, what settings would you recommend for the AE Lock Button (*)? I love your settings for the AF-ON and AF Point Selection buttons but not sure about the AE Lock Button. Many, many thanks for sharing your expertise.
It is really hard to say what would be best for you given I do not know how and what you shoot most often. I would just experiment with various AF setups until you find one that meets your needs. Sorry, I could not be more specific.
Thanks for this and for sharing your experience. Just subscribed to your channel. Not that I'm in a position to request, but it would be amazing if the settings you describe were available in a simple table or list format.
I can't thank you enough for this video! Received my R7 (used) yesterday, which came with a Canon mount adapter EF-EOS R. Watched your video to set it up last night. Took it out to a local wetland this morning with my Sigma 150-600mm lens. OMG! Blown away with how good it is! Upgraded from a Canon 700D. Thank you Ron.
Hi Ron, Regarding customizing back buttons for back button focusing, The "register current settings" command in the register/recall shooting function is greyed-out and won't set. Did I miss something?
Go to the description for this video and read the NOTE arhat I put there. I made an error in the video. The note discusses that. That said, the best thing to do is hit the reset to defaults button in the register/recall shooting function and then set up the register/recall function the way you want. Then just back out of the menu without hitting the register current settings.
Excellent, excellent explanations, tips, and tricks! Thanks! I will experiment with turning off IS for high shutter speed settings while doing bird in flight. It does make sense to me.
Finally someone to actually say “you have to hold the back button down while shooting”…to keep the autofocus lock on! Thank you! I can’t tell you how many videos I’ve watched and posts I’ve read just to get this clarified. Thank you!
Why not keep the shutter button to initiate focus as “spot”, use the AF-On button for eye focus animals, then use the * button as zone autofocus? Only two back buttons to press and may eliminate confusion during the heat of the moment. In this way you can use the shutter button to capture the bird’s location, then hit AF-On for eye focus?
Thank for the vast amount of useful info you have shared. And the marvellous images, especially via your earlier video on extreme BIF. Way down under (in Aus)I have recently acquired the R5 and100-500 R lens, principally for birds/wildlife, and am amazed at the increase in keepers thanks to the extraordinary technological advances, especially in auto focus - but I have one issue, and (hopefully!) you may have a solution. It goes to the speed with which I can switch to custom modes for my BIF settings in that often very small time frame available when an opportunity suddenly presents. With my old 7D/400mm prime setup I could do that simply and very quickly. With my BIF settings at C3, I could simply turn the mode dial until it couldn't go any further - which was at C3. This change could be achieved without taking my eye off the bird/birds as the camera was raised to shooting position. Mechanical but effective. With the R5, as I yet understand it (!), I have to visually find C3 (or C2 or C1, whichever) via the Mode button, select it, and then and only then go back to trying to get the shot/shots. Problematic. My eye has been off the target/potential target so more valuable time is inevitably lost while I regather it. If it's still worth shooting - which it often will not be. The R5, in many positive reviews, has been hailed for the extent to which it can be customised, so it seems almost incredible to me that there is not some means of allocating my BIF settings to a button where a single press would give me that opportunity. (I appreciate many BIF specialists will be dedicated to that single task, and be set up just for that, but one of the very many beauty's of the R5/100-500mm combo, for the generalist amateur like me, is that you could be taking a landscape one second, while rambling about, and then have the opportunity for a great BIF shot. Hopefully I've missed something, and a tweet will give me access to that opportunity....)
What the deal with the image stabilization always on. Having that on waiting for birds must drain battery, plus I think I'd rather have it off for doing birds in flight. Any thoughts on this?
You can turn IS off via the switch on the lens. On older lens if IS is on then it will not shut down when not shooting, but on say, my 600mm f/4 Mk. II it does shut down as it should. Problem is only on older EF lenses.
Thanks Ron, I have revisited my settings after having had my R5 for a little while and am going to implement your settings . I found the last section re IS on the lens really interesting. I have been struggling trying to get accurate focus on some of my BIF images (peregrines flying around a cathedral). I’ve lost no end of images to blurry outcomes when I thought they should be sharp. I have been using Setting 1 on my lenses (100-500 or 500 prime.] the problem is sometimes they are perched and I want that stabilisation for that moment, but then they take off and fly around. Following your thoughts I might want to turn off IS altogether. Not something easy to do when in situations like this. Wouldn’t it be fantastic if there was some way that I could set my IS to turn off and back on just by pressing a button on my camera….. I would customise my DOF button to that. Canon are you listening 😊. Great tips Ron …. Thank you.
Thank you for this video. so much great information. I've got an r5 now after using the Mark iii for years. Besides photographing birds in flight, I also photograph my 7 year old granddaughter's soccer games. What setting changes from this video would I need to make for that scenario? Thanks!
what is the r5 for birds in flight ? Sony Northrup one video it is a piece of shit 2 months later is the best thing since slice bread!!! what a joke was there a firmware update for this camera ??
Based on my one year of shooting the R5 , it is a great all around camera , including for birds in flight. There have been firmware updates that continue to make it better and give it more capabilities. The only way to know if it will work for you is to try it yourself. Cheers. Ron
I appreciate this info so much! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve come back and reset my settings. Seems like after I do a camera update I lose my settings - so thankful for this info! ❤
Great video! I've recently purchased the R5 after shooting for many years on a secondhand Canon EOS 7D/EF 100-400 (Version 1!!) set up. I felt like I finally had reached a point in my photography where the better kit would be worth splurge. Thanks for the solid advice and explanations. I feel like you've explained well enough that I can better understand how to take your suggestions and tweak for my personal use.
This was very useful, especially selecting focus using back buttons, thanks. One oddity, perhaps I missed something, but after carefully entering all the settings my R5 would not do ES multiple shots, only "one shot". It seems that "drive highspeed continuous +" can't be set from "menu", but it is available from the "Q menu". Seems like an oversight in Canon's design?
Hi great help thanks. When i go to set my auto focus point selection button to spot with the 4 items you suggest the option to register the settings is greyed out and i cannot set them. Any help would be great.
You do not want to register the settings. Just check mark the options you want the button to initiate and back out of the menu. If the button then initiates things you don't want, go back into the detail set for register and recall a shooting function and reset the defaults then make sure what you want is set up and check marked and back out of the menu. I hope this helps.
Late to the comments here, but only because I'm expecting my R5 to be delivered early next week and I'm currently researching set up. So a quick question as regards Crop Mode (x1.6). If the RAW image is about 45Mb and the CRAW is about 27Mb and you say that using Crop Mode will give about a 17Mb image, can I assume that's from a RAW file and that the CRAW file will give maybe around a 12Mb image? Or have I misunderstood? Most of all, thanks for this video which I'm so glad to have found. As a long standing BIF photographer I'm eager to see how the R5 can make things a little easier for me now I'm getting a little older!
I believe you are confusing image size (megapixels) and file size (megabytes). When you use crop mode you reduce the image size from 45 megapixels to about 27 megapixels on average. When you chose CRAW over RAW you are not changing the image size, you still have 45megapixels, but the file size in megabytes is reduced.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks, yes of course - I realised not long after but ended up forgetting to delete my comment. Today I'm awaiting delivery of a new R5 after I had to return the one I received last week because it kept giving me regular, but intermiitent "Error Code 70" messages. Fingers crossed this one arriving today is perfect.
"Release Shutter without a Card" is a feature which Canon gave to the camera stores. Firing the shutter on demo cameras helps get sales over-the-counter.
OMG after making all the great changes ,I began a few test shots. Nothing was working. Well, wouldn't you know I changed to electronic shutter. I hope like you that Canon will give us just a little sound.
This was very good! Loved the info about the "Same expo for new aperture" (at 37:00 minutes) and switching it to ISO. Makes it so much more reassuring to use the 100-500. I have been all over the map over the past 4 months with my custom dials and buttons and I have been struggling. So I look forward to trying this new set-up.I am confused about one thing. I set my AF point button to large zone AF, hit register current settings then apply settings but it defaults back to the single point AF. I no longer do much BIF so would prefer to have the zone AF on the harder to reach button ie. the AF point button and use the * button for metering and AF single point start. What am I doing wrong? Or Plan B: How would I set up my custom buttons if I wanted to use my shutter button to acquire focus? My main AF method would be Animal eye detect+ tracking and then could I use the * button for single point and the AF button for large zone? Would this work? I just tried to do this and once again the AFbutton reverts back to what I have set in my main menu which is animal eye detect/tracking and not large zone AF. Help!
My experience similar to Doug Ridgway above is that you want to make the changes but then do NOT select “register current settings”, just instead hit “menu” button and exit out. The “register current settings” seems to take the camera’s current settings and overwrites the customization selections that you had just entered. This register current settings command is a bit confusing, and does not “register” the settings you had just entered. Hope this helps!!
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hi Ron, I really enjoy your informative videos and have learned so much since subscribing, many thanks!! Happy to be able to contribute back in a small way. So much to learn in how best to utilize the amazing power and customization features of the R5 .....
Ron, I’ve solved the shutter issue, however I needed to reset the whole camera. So it must be a certain setting in menu that the shutter doesn’t like. I’m slowly working through your custom listings to establish which one it could be affecting shutter firing so strange !,
Small update Ron, everything seems to be working fine now. I’ve come to the conclusion that I hate the shutter button on the R5 especially if no beep because I’m not sure I’ve taken a picture in the field? So for the moment I’m very pleased overall with this canon model however the shutter release is going to take sometime to get used to it regards Steve
Yesterday I was shooting eagles. They were quite far away. I was wondering if I should turn off eye detection when birds are far away? Do you have a video that discusses this. Thank you
Thanks for the video, Ron. It's very good. I have a couple of questions. When would you use image stabilization? I have the R5 with a RF100-500 lens on a mono-pod. We'll be in South Georgia Island and the Falklands, shooting penguins from a rubber zodiac. We have another trip to Pantanal, Brazil, shooting birds & wildlife from a hard-bottomed boat with a lot of vibration. I understand that for BIF it makes sense to have Image Stabilization turned off, but in my situation, both boats will be rocking, and the vibration will be a factor. I'm very petite, and cannot hand-hold the camera, so I need to use the mono-pod. Also, the lens has the 3 stabilization modes. I know that mode 2 is for panning, but if there is an appropriate reason to use Image Stabilization while in the boats, should I be on mode 3 for the erratic movement or mode 1 for static? Thanks.
I would try mode 1 as it will stabilize the VF for you making it much easier to get and stay on your subject. There is another thing that could help you deal with shooting on boats and other unstable ground. It will allow you to isolate your camera from the movement unlike a monopod that has to be resting on the bottom of the boat. It is a photography harness system I make and sell. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/GdI2jzxoNJQ/v-deo.html
Have a question Ron, in Electronic Shutter can I control the amount of shots by the time you hold down the shutter, or is it every time I press the shutter I get 20 frames?
With ES you get 20 frames per second. So, if you hold the shutter button down for one second you will get 20 frames taken. If you hold for less than 1 second you get the fraction of 20 depending on the fraction of the second you hold it down. Now, you can shoot in single shot mode. If in single shot mode you get only one frame each time you press the shutter button no matter how long you hold it down without letting it up.
@@whistlingwingsphotography @Whistling Wings Photography So single shot in ES sounds appropriate for perched birds, while heavy action you'll want 20fps. Do you have a button set up to switch you fast . How do you have your R5 set up using ES. Also do you have a button set up for FF vs Crop mode to switch you fast. Canon needs a FW update to address the ES 20fps with other options.
Wow, very informative video! How come i never came across any of your videos on UA-cam? And i have been watcing videos like that for years. UA-cam search sucks. If not for a friend in a FB group, i would have never found it! Very detailed and informative, aldo not my exact setup preferences. Note on CRAW - it does not change the megapixels but it compresses the RAW file in a fashion similar to JPEG, so you kind of lose details, specially if shooting high ISO (i think). The difference can be negligible, but its visible if you pixel-peep :)
To save the modified settings for registering a new recall setting, just hit the Menu button when done. If you press register the "Current" settings, all changed settings reverts to the camera settings before the changes. I learned this on the R3, and likely true for the R5.
I adopted your new setting for birds in flight, thanks a lot for all that hard work Ron doing those tutorial. They really help my Birds in Flight with my Canon R5. 1- Will or would your choice of setting in the menu change with the new Firmware 1.4.0 ? 2- Is there a way to show you some pictures that we did of Birds in Flight ? 3- They say there is no stupid question... I would like to know if the shutter count ad-up when using electronic shutter ?
Hey, thanks so much for watching. Regarding your questions. 1) Nope. the new firmware affected the IS/IBIS performance, so no camera menu changes, but I have now started to use IS Modes 2 and 3 again like I used to do with my DSLR bodies. So, that is good. 2) Sure, you can send me images. Depending on how large the files are you could just email them to ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com or you can use WeTransfer or DropBox to share them with me. 3) from what I understand, no, it does not. Only mechanical shutter releases count on the camera's "counter." This is from a Canon field rep. He was not sure this was the case, but was almost sure; whatever that means. I have yet to confirm this.
Ron, one question, i noticed there was a slightly older video were you did the 3rd BBF button a bit differently (simpler in my mind). Any comment on these two methods i.e. using "register/recall shooting func" vs "switch to registered AF func". If i recall right you used the latter in some older video and do it now with the former way (which seems more cumbersome to me)..
Petri, the “register/recall shooting func” allow you to assign an AF method to a back button and only have to press that button to activate the AF method. The previous method you had to press two back buttons, one to switch to the registered AF func and the other to have the camera actually start AF and use the registered function. So, to me the register/recall method is much easier to use. I hope this helps. Thanks so much for your interest in my videos. Sincerely, Ron
This is very usefull tips for setting R5. When you was shooting at hight shutter speed. Did you turn IBIS on camera off and let len IS on or turn off both?. Can I just turn len IS off and let IBIS for same resulf? Thank!
Nope, you cannot turn IS off and leave IBIS on or the other way around. If you have an IS lens attached to the camera the switches on the lens IS also control IBIS, so IS Off on lens equals IBIS off in camera. If you attach an non-IS lens t the camera then you get a menu item in the camera that allows you to turn IBIS on or off.
I have a new R5 and I am trying to sort out how to use the 2 card slots. I tend to agree that I really don't need to use the SD card as a back up. So, I will be recording everything to a fast CFexpress card that is large capacity. Question is - what should I use for an SD card. I assume there is some concern that a too slow SD card will interfere with high frame rate shooting? What is fast enough for the SD card when used as an overflow card as you recommend? Thanks for your great work on the channel. It has been a big help to me.
Here is how I get the viewfinder to stay? on for me. I set my display on 30 min. I set my info button to be able to cycle to off for the screen. When Im in the field, and on something, I turn off the screen via the info button. The viewfinder will remain active for 30 muinites. the eye sensor thingy will turn off when you remove your head. A quick push of your focus button, or half press of shutter, snaps it on. I think this is the best solution for power savings, and speed that I have found.
You have to use face tracking in main menu with AED to use those initial point options. If you use the custom AED shortcut with BB it will not use those points as it always defaults to auto.
Very helpful. Is there a shutter speed that you generally use/recommend for birds in flight, or does it vary depending on the type of bird? I have the 800mm F11 so aperture is already fixed.
If your goal is to stop all motion including the winds then the SS is def bird dependent. For any bird other than hummingbirds if you can get 1/4000s of a second you will stop just about all motion. That said, if you are good at panning with a flying bird you can shoot as slow a shutter speed as you want to get blur introduced to create a sense of motion. It really all depends on what type of image you are trying to make. To end this, I will say that overall I would try to get a shutter speed of over 1/1000s as a general rule. Hope this helps.
I appreciate a lot all that you've done but I do not understand what is the extra benefit of having zone AF as an extra back button focus. I mean if the eye doesn't work you go to spot in what kind of scenario are you using the zone AF. Tnx in advance.
That button initiates the main AF method I have selected. Zone was just an example. I may have it set to a single point with assist points and I use that for BIF sometimes when the bird blends with the background. The point is you can have 3 AF methods at your thumb tip and that is a big deal to me.
Hi Ron excellent video. I have ordered my R5 and pairing up with 100-400 ef now. But in future I'm planning to get a EF 500mm F4 for birding. What's your opinion on autofocus speed and sharpness..
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. Given I am not sure which lens you are inquiring about I will provide my thoughts on both. First, I will assume we are discussing the Mk. II version of both the 100-400 and 500 4, because the Mk. I versions do not work well on the R5 with regards to autofocus and fps speed of the R5. This would not matter for most types of photography, but for birds it can be critical as I am sure you know. Thus, I do not recommend either of those lenses for the R5. The Mk. II versions are a different matter. They both work very well on the R5 with good AF speed and great sharpness. I would not hesitate at all to get the 500 f/4 Mk. II and pair it with the R5. It is an awesome combo and it allows use of both the 1.4x and 2.0x TCs with great overall performance. That is one of the great benefits of the 500 and 600 f/4 big whites. I hope this is helpfull.
@@whistlingwingsphotography My apology I did not mention the version 😂. Amazing. Thinking about the price point of RF lenses I thought EF telephotos are really good bet. Thanks a lot for your input and suggestions. I will share my experience in filming with this combo. Thanks again. 😊
Hi Ron, Thanks to you I purchased an R5 recently very pleased and followed all your settings to the letter for birds in flight. However now when fitted with canon 100-400 and 2x extender plus adapter _ the shutter won’t fire ? So strange is it one of your custom setups that stop me taking my first photo, very frustrated please help!!
I cannot think of a reason why that combo would not work on the R5 with my settings. One thing does come to mind, but I don't think it should matter. However, let's give it a try. Turn off the "Same Exposure for Different Aperture" if you have it set to ISO and you have the ISO limited to a certain maximum value. If this is not it, I am not sure what could be keeping the shutter from firing. I will dig into this to see if I can figure out anything.
@@stevebristow8412 I have no idea then. It should work as I know folks who are using the combo. I am wondering if there is a communication problem that the TC is causing. Maybe the contacts are not making good connection. If you can get your hands on another TC and see if it works you can determine if it is the TC
Superb! The triple AF I’m adopting. I follow you bird guys because you all know how to compose properly yet quickly. Birds, kids, dogs, bridal parties can all be pretty fast so look at how the specialists work their gear I say. But now you’re gonna cost me 2800 bucks since I want that 100-500 for birds. I’m a bird convert…. Just phenomenal shots sir.
Thank you Ron! I am new to mirrorless and to Canon and had setup my R5 through another tutorial. Yours is a much better and easier to understand approach. The only thing I have not been able to figure out how to do is to be able to review my focus point after I take a shot. I have AF Point Display Enabled in Play5 but I still can not see it when I view images. Is there anyway to see the focus point of an image after you have taken it? Tx
Yes, and it seems you have the setting set to allow for review of the AF point. However, the AF point is only viewable in playback when the entire image is displayed. If you Zoom in at all on the image then the AF point disappears. This may be what is happening. If not let me know and I will look into it further.
Nope. It is telling you the camera is getting warm. I assume it was a warm day and you had been shooting a bunch of long burst or looking through the viewfinder a lot. I get the thermometer icon from time to time, but the camera is still fine and I just keep on shooting.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron, Yes its been Very HOT down here in fl as you know. The first time it happened i was holding the back button longer than usual as i looked thru the viewfinder waiting for an osprey to take off, so i assume that combination over heated the camera. The next time i was aware of not holding it as long but i noticed the outer part of the camera was getting hot and it came on. I've never noticed this before, thanks again for your help
Thanks so much for this update. I tried these settings today and had some nice results. I didn't hear you mention metering. Do you typically use spot metering, evaluative, or other for birds in flight?
Dan, I shoot full manual exposure and so the meter does not affect my exposure. So, in essence I don't use any metering. Of course the meter is still active in the sense that the pointer on the metering scale is still moving around providing me input if I want it, but I have found with mirrorless cameras set to show the exposure through the VF I just use that to set my exposures.
When I am shooting one shot my emphasis is on focus, so I set it to focus. For some, it may be better set on the other option. It all depends on shooting style. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Ron, following you ever since I have R5. Honestly, ur each and every video surpasses my expectation. Just wondering if you could also plan to have all of your settings saved in card (that came with new FW update) and then share that file in your channel. It would be great help .
Excellent video Ron and your birds in flight photos are awesome. I have a question will these settings work with the R6. I managed to to get the settings registered in my R6 but can't get out until the weekend.
I found a lot of information that was useful. I use the Canon EOS R6 which has the same AF system. I set up that third back button for a zone. Also, the advice about turning up the shutter speed and turning off IS on the RF100-500mm L lens while shooting birds in flight is very interesting. I'm going to try this next time I'm out. Thank you so much!
Thank you Ron. The third back button option was news to me and your comments made me reconsider some other settings. You made a comment about the option on function menu 4 to enable release shutter w/o lens. I agree that for birds in flight this would not be of any benefit, it is however a useful option for non-electronic and therefore fully manual lenses for example digiscoping. Great video again, thank you.
Great video, very useful. One comment: "Release shutter without a lens" is a useful option when you are using third-party lenses that the camera does not recognize. When having this setting off, the camera will give an error message saying that there is no lens connected. But when this is on, the camera will shoot even when it thinks there is no lens, even though there actually is one. I am not sure if R5 reacts like this with third-party lenses, but my Canon M6ii mirrorless definitely did, and this setting was extremely useful.
Back in Aug or Sept of 2020, I set my r5 up for 3 back buttons as you described here. After months of shooting like that, I found that during intense action, my thumb would hit the wrong one (not AF-On, but the other two). Frankly, I think Canon put them too close together. I don't have extremely large fingers, either, so others who do have a "fat" thumb may find that using 3 back buttons doesn't work for them. What I finally decided to do is to make #2 and #3 back buttons do exactly the same thing. This way, I get what I want with no fear of hitting the wrong one.
And another thing I found, which was surprising and may have something to do with how I changed settings over time, is the custom buttons keep the AWB setting I had when I originally set up the camera. I later changed to K, but those buttons kept AWB, which really screwed things up for me when setting buttons and finding my WB all over the map. So someone who wants to shoot K should be sure to set WB on each custom button just to be sure. Thank for the video. Reviewing settings after 6 months or so is a useful thing.
Thanks for the comment and adding to the discussion Always valuable to others to get as many viewpoints as possible.
Wow! Thanks so very much! This really helped me go the the next level w/ my R5 and RF100-500! You should have way more subscribers!
I really appreciate this update, especially your discovering (and sharing) the part about assigning different AF modes to three different back buttons to facilitate switching between AF modes rapidly and easily. Very ingenious. A great idea.
Also thanks for the clarification concerning lenses with multiple IS settings that is really useful and helpful knowledge to have including the thought that shooting at relatively high shutter speeds can often negate the need for IS & IBIS all together.
Great stuff.
Thanks so much and for taking the time to comment.
Thanks for your useful tips on setting up the R5 for bird photography.
I've got a possible workaround for the Canon R5/LP-E6NH sad battery life. (Others viewers may have come across this, or a similar
solution already). I used this setup just once in the field, so far. I went to an estuary in my area and had my Canon R5 powered
on continuously for a full 3 hours and utilized about 3/4 of my battery, shooting mostly video. My gear list is below. Just be very
careful about which dummy battery you choose. You'll want one that actually regulates the voltage down to 8.0 volts. If you search
UA-cam, there are R5 owners who bricked their R5 because they used a dummy battery that was meant to be paired with an AC wall adapter
that output 8.0 volts. If you've got a voltmeter handy, you'll feel more confident if you measure the output of an LP-E6NH and then
measure the output of the setup below, before you actually install the dummy battery into your Canon camera. One more tech tip: When
I got back home, it only took one hour to recharge the battery back to 100% capacity. The latest battery chargers use GaN III / PD 3.0
technology for cooler operation and reduced physical size. 65W and 100W versions are typical.
My alternate Canon R5 battery setup:
- GyroVu D-Tap to Canon LP-E6 Intelligent Dummy Battery
- FXLion Nano One V-Mount Battey
- SmallRig Mini V-Lock battery Plate with Belt Clip
Thanks!
I am new to the R5, and found your video excellent in terms of setting up for birds. I was amazed to hear what you were saying about I.S and IBIS,. I need to listen again to get it all in. So thank you very much.
Andy Jersey UK.
Brilliant video, Really informative, Can't wait to get out and try switching all the stabilization modes off for birds in flight! Thankyou.
Thanks for watching and I am glad you found the video informative. Good luck shooting. Cheers.
Thanks for this, especially like the spot autofocus being activated with one button instead of requiring two buttons to be pressed simultaneously as in your previous video.
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for your comment.
I'm confused, so I set everything up; love it, fantastic !. You nailed it.
My head cant wrap around AF Servo, so now its set to Case 2 with the sensitivity -2 , and accel +2. That's for panning fast-moving Birds; use BBF with eye detection or spot; it should track, right?
So, the question is if I go to shoot a non-fast bird, say sitting... do I leave Servo AF as is and lens IS on, in the same settings, or should I change something else? (ie. Case 1, ? IS would be a benefit in low light hand held, etc... I think Im confused when does Servo AF kick in and should I change modes? If yes, how?... whats easier than diving into MENU AF menu 3 ?? Also, I keep hearing Mode 1 and 2, that's on my len's? All my lenses are at Canon... cant look at them (have one RF ,800f/11; the others are EF's 70-200 ii; 100-400ii, 16-35 4.0, 24-105 4.0). Thanks for the help... ;-)
Superb video full of great tips. Out of interest, your Case 2 adjustments for birds in flight, would they be as useful for a moving bird on the ground perched birds? I do all and want to find a settings that works without having to fiddle with it depending on the subject.
Hi Ron! I just watched this latest update from you. I want you to know that I watched about 30 different "how to set up" videos for bird photography a year ago after being so frustrated with trying to figure out the R6 focusing system. Your video on settings that I watched back then is what got me rolling. I have thoroughly enjoy photographing birds since then. Thank you so much for being the first one that I found that knew what the hell they were talking about. I've always said that there were people who knew how to photograph and then there were people who made videos. You sir, do both well. I'll take these latest changes in your setup and use what works for me, now that I've learned over the past year how to fine tune things. Thank you!
Hey, thanks so much. I really appreciate the feedback. It is very much appreciated. Glad you are getting out and getting some great images.
I want to add in my reference my post yesterday, I just wanted to add I heard you say IS can be off at higher shutter speeds, I get that, at 2waht, over 1500??
Still don't fully get the AF Servo (default menu set to Zone AF, or Large Zone AF: Horizontal).AF Servo set to Case 2 setting; when and what to do if the bird is still?
Thanks for another great and helpful video Ron! A couple of suggestions...I don't want to sound critical, just trying to help. First off, something is up with your audio. The audio for your intro and conclusion are fine but for everything in-between I only hear audio in the left channel, nothing in the right. The I've noticed this with a few of your videos. Maybe it's just me somehow? Second, it might be helpful to flag the more recent changes you've made for those of us who have already watched the earlier video, so we know exactly what you've changed more recently instead of having to watch the whole video. Thanks again for all the help you pass along to the community!
Aloha from Honolulu, Can't thank you enough for sharing your R5 thoughts. So, so helpful. I am shooting birds in tough situations and it's not easy making the 80D to R5 leap. Truly appreciate the time you put into sharing what you've learned-and updating it! As I've not, typically, shot in M (Manual) - I've gone for TV with a high shutter speed on my 80D, and with good results - would be curious about your thoughts about shooting in M. I'll be experimenting with M, but some sage guidance would nice. If you've already done this, I'll find it! Mahalo nui loa again!
Wrong about the RAW vs cRAW . RAW is already somewhat compressed, cRAW is further compressed, meaning that it becomes increasingly more difficult to effectively denoise high isos due to the addittional compression. Denoising iso 25600 is possible with RAW, cRAW less so. If you have the space, shoot raw.
I have not found this to be the case, but I admit I do not shoot at ISO 25600, ever. For up to ISO 4000 cRAW and RAW perform the same for me. Moreover, it is not just about space, it is about buffer performance and processing as well.
Just a suggestion about the way you comment. Your comments are worded as if you are all knowing and how you think about and do things is the only correct way, or is absolutely fact. You may consider stating that for "you" AWB is fine and "you" find RAW is better then cRAW for how you shoot. Because, others may not find your exclusive terminology and thinking to be correct or best for how they shoot. You will get more people to read and listen to what you have to offer if you make suggestions rather than acrimonious statements. I do my best in my videos to state this is how I have found things to work best for "me" and I make suggestions not statements. I fail at this sometimes, but it is my goal.
@@whistlingwingsphotography ok mate, but, plenty of viewers will hang on your every word, and, after watching your video might believe that there is no benefit in shooting the full sized RAW. I have only done minimal, testing on denoising my R5, but, I was not encouraged in the few iso25600 and 51200 craw denoising tests I did.
Or, just shoot full RAW. Both produce the same sized 260MB file when exported as a16bit tiff from DPP, to continue my work flow.
Not many youtubers advocate denoising chrominance an luminace separatey (as I do). Fyi, I denoise the chrominance fairly hard, and the luminance mildly. But... fine pinprick pixel sized noise - looks like a fine film grain, denoises the most sucessfully for me, but, in my limited testing, I didnt see that fine noise structure with craw.
But hey, what do I know ? I enter comps frequently enough, and won my first wildlife comp (at club level) with an image taken @ iso6400 on a 5D3 (a 2012 camera). The judge could not believe it was shot at iso6400 when we chatted after... Anyhows, I suspect we might both agree that there is more to learn re the merits of shooting raw or craw with a R5.
Btw, I do enjoy your videos and find them informative, however, I believe there is more to learn about CRAW, and more to that story. Respectfully.
Does the "subject to detect" option set to animals only apply when eye detection is used?
I'm setting up BBF specifically AF-ON button for normal focusing without eye detection, but set to1 Point AF. Will "subject to detect" animals be ignored and use "none"?
I set up the * button with eye detection.
I'm a bird photographer and want to be able to prefocus on perches and nests without the R5 AF searching for an animal.
i use my second card as a backup. over 25 years, i've had 4 cards go bad. rare, but it happens. the last 2 were SanDisk which is why i don't use SanDisk anymore.
Some good points but boy are you missing a trick in not using Auto ISO. For anything apart from controlled lighting situations auto ISO is the single biggest advancement since the camera was invented. Not sure if it's old school pride or some other reason (The reasons you give don't make sense) but I strongly recommend people try auto ISO and not just disable this as per Whistling Wings. It's perfect for birds in flight. If you pan with a bird where the lighting on the bird changes (pretty much every time you shoot a bird in flight!) auto ISO manages this perfectly. You do need to make sure you are using partial or spot metering. You also don't turn on "Safety Shift" Why on earth not? In combination with Auto ISO and shooting shutter priority the two things pretty much guarantee a well exposed bird. Sure, you might not get the exact shutter speed you want in some situations but better than a badly under or overexposed bird. Do love your recommended setup for quickly changing focus method using customizable buttons.
Hi Ron. After years of watching the evolution of mirrorless cameras my wife and I finally took the plunge and each bought R5 plus 100-500 zoom and invested in all the bits and bobs. Very happy with initial results on static/slow/large subjects but pretty rapidly got to point of deciding to selling all kit again once we tried and failed miserably with birds in flight. Results were truly dreadful, against a history of success and multiple awards etc with the trusty 1DX series. Fortunately we didn't actually sell. Watched your introductory video on the R5 + 100-500, and now most of the way through this one - think you might have saved us! Still very early days but within minutes of applying some of your tips and settings, what an improvement! We need to keep listening to you and applying; I am sure we have a lot to learn and get used to.
As I say, very early days, but the the two things that still worry me (I am sure you will have addressed these somewhere) are 1. getting our heads around that when you zoom in on a high megapixel camera things look less sharp than on a lower megapixel - you have explained that in passing but we need to really get to grips with that, and 2. more concerning at moment is the fact that for moving subjects to be sharp you say we need considerably higher speeds than with 1DX series; that translates into much higher ISO, and as we live in UK where good light is often lacking, plus we often take in low light evenings and mornings when creatures tend to be more active, the high speed & high ISO thing still feels like an issue because of noise.
However, just the two of your videos we have watched so far have given us the confidence that we will get cracking results with this kit once we learn how to use it - so we will persevere till we understand capabilities and limits properly. The two of your videos we have watched so far are really great and I can assure you I will do my homework by watching all the rest. You are a star. Thank you.
Hey, thanks so much. I am so glad you found the videos informative. Don’t give up on the R5 it is very good as is the 100-500. Super IS capabilities for sure. Ron
Thank you for such an indepth video. This will cetainly assist me in setting up my camera. I would just like to add that if you remove your lens and go to the red camera setting in the menu and Tab 7 IS(stabilizer) mode is shown but not when a lens is fitted. Select it and you can choose on or off, Still photo IS Always or one shot and then Focal Length and im not sure what that means. What length do you suggest and what are they referring too. Would love some feed back.
When customizing buttons while you are in a video mode, say C3 Video, what does the photo column of buttons actually do? I am seeing that it does nothing. The settings seem to be ignored. Instead, when you flip to photo mode, it will honor your settings that had been set in C3 photo mode.
it goes from raw 14 bit to c-raw 10 bit.
Save Settings to Card...how about if you use a separate SD card dedicated to this information ... you will not lose it when formatting card
Hi Ron! Thanks for another highly informative video on the R5. I appreciate your approach to the settings and your logic as to why you set up as you do. Got a giggle for the lens IBIS settings..... Cheers, Vicki
Thanks so much for the comment Vicki, I hope you are doing well. Cheers.
Thank you for the tip to be able to set the AF Point Button to spot focus. I was able to do this before but, I had to hold down both that and the AE Lock button to get the spot focus. One problem I had with your method was that when I set my settings and hit the register current setting tab, it defaulted to the animal eye auto focus. My work around was to go through the set up and don't register it. Now when I hit the AF Point Button, I get the spot focus to work.
Ah, good point, I may have misspoken in the video.
Great video. Straight forward, detailed, explained and illustrated well. The last "Customize Buttons" setting could be a game-changer. The IBIS/IS functionality discussion at the end clarifies questions I and others have had ... very helpful and important. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks! This video saved me a lot of frustration. I had 5 days to photograph bald eagles last week. I thought I had it set up properly based on BIF R5 set-up videos. The first two days of images were not a good as I had hopped for. At the hotel, I watched this video and made some adjustments to my EOS R5 and it made all the difference in the world.
What you do matters my friend.
Thanks again!
Hey, thanks so much for the feedback. I am really glad you found the video helpful. Sincerely, Ron
I bought the R5 last April and I got tons of problems,
THANKS TO YOUR VIDEO IT'S NOW WORKING PROPRALY!!!!!!!!!
Bless you man!
Why do you disable the continuous AF? [AF Menu 1 - min 21:30]
Hello. Enjoying this video a lot. A few quick questions: on the Cases in AF tab, if I was to edit case 2 like your edits, is it then activated when I'm using my AF back button to lock focus, or do I need to set to Case 2 each time I'm doing a shoot? I do mostly fast action, and so was thinking it's most similar to birds in flight (I don't do much bird photography, more sports, concerts, news etc) but figured Case 2 may help keep me locked in better. I'm finding my focus subject to bounce around a lot on my R5 but not on my R6MII. Trying to figure out what I have set differently. Next question: I'm having a heck of a time getting AF Eye focus to work on the R5. It's working beautifully on my R6MII. I like having the AF button to be set for Metering and AF + the 9 square focus mode. Than my * to be AF Eye. But, whenever I hit AF Eye - it only gives me the "can't find anything" squares. I know in my heart it's probably a simple setting difference that I have - but can't seem to figure out what. I often get either the Orange circle (that looks somewhat like this >>. ( ) but other direction.
I'd still love to get insights on the above questions, but will say I completed the full video - and I think these changes may really help me a great deal! I found some items I didn't have set in the same way as WWP, and now that I have - I noticed eye focus is actually occurring. Still interested in the Cases question. I like the idea of cases, but I'm struggling to fully understand them. At the end, the discussion on IS and IBIS was raised - and I think what I'm hearing is for my Canon 100-500, I need to turn off IS on the lens, if I'm shooting at high shutter speeds. For concerts, I shoot at 1/1600 - 1/2000 a lot. So sounds like I don't need it.
What a great 50 minutes of my new camera experience! At least four great settings that will change the way I use my R5! Greatly appreciated!
Great to hear! Thanks so much for the comment.
Just got my R5. Updated fw to 1.4. Tried to do the following: Customize Buttons -> AF point button register/recall shooting func -> info detail set
Checked only: AF method, Both Tracking and AF Operation. When I try to Register Current Settings, they are reset to defaults. What am I doing wrong?
I can not find any information on "Register Custom Settings" operation. Can you please help?
tony, please read the Note section in the video Description. I made an error in the video. When you are done setting up the button do not hit "Register Current Settings" and you should be fine.
Thank you, Ron. On the R6, what settings would you recommend for the AE Lock Button (*)? I love your settings for the AF-ON and AF Point Selection buttons but not sure about the AE Lock Button. Many, many thanks for sharing your expertise.
It is really hard to say what would be best for you given I do not know how and what you shoot most often. I would just experiment with various AF setups until you find one that meets your needs. Sorry, I could not be more specific.
This video is the most excellent "how to video for the Canon R5/100-500 lens". Love it!
Hey, thanks so much. Really appreciate the comment.
Please Canon! Give us fake shutter noise for electronic shutter! Please!
Thanks for this and for sharing your experience. Just subscribed to your channel. Not that I'm in a position to request, but it would be amazing if the settings you describe were available in a simple table or list format.
Great suggestion!
I can't thank you enough for this video! Received my R7 (used) yesterday, which came with a Canon mount adapter EF-EOS R. Watched your video to set it up last night. Took it out to a local wetland this morning with my Sigma 150-600mm lens. OMG! Blown away with how good it is! Upgraded from a Canon 700D. Thank you Ron.
Hi Ron, Regarding customizing back buttons for back button focusing, The "register current settings" command in the register/recall shooting function is greyed-out and won't set. Did I miss something?
Go to the description for this video and read the NOTE arhat I put there. I made an error in the video. The note discusses that. That said, the best thing to do is hit the reset to defaults button in the register/recall shooting function and then set up the register/recall function the way you want. Then just back out of the menu without hitting the register current settings.
Your mic it’s really bad lol I mostly listen only and hear only on one ear it’s weird
Excellent, excellent explanations, tips, and tricks! Thanks! I will experiment with turning off IS for high shutter speed settings while doing bird in flight. It does make sense to me.
Glad it was helpful!
Finally someone to actually say “you have to hold the back button down while shooting”…to keep the autofocus lock on! Thank you! I can’t tell you how many videos I’ve watched and posts I’ve read just to get this clarified. Thank you!
Why not keep the shutter button to initiate focus as “spot”, use the AF-On button for eye focus animals, then use the * button as zone autofocus? Only two back buttons to press and may eliminate confusion during the heat of the moment. In this way you can use the shutter button to capture the bird’s location, then hit AF-On for eye focus?
I pre-focus where I expect the bird to be. Use the half-pressed shutter button only to wake the camera while not changing point of focus.
Thank for the vast amount of useful info you have shared. And the marvellous images, especially via your earlier video on extreme BIF. Way down under (in Aus)I have recently acquired the R5 and100-500 R lens, principally for birds/wildlife, and am amazed at the increase in keepers thanks to the extraordinary technological advances, especially in auto focus - but I have one issue, and (hopefully!) you may have a solution. It goes to the speed with which I can switch to custom modes for my BIF settings in that often very small time frame available when an opportunity suddenly presents. With my old 7D/400mm prime setup I could do that simply and very quickly. With my BIF settings at C3, I could simply turn the mode dial until it couldn't go any further - which was at C3. This change could be achieved without taking my eye off the bird/birds as the camera was raised to shooting position. Mechanical but effective. With the R5, as I yet understand it (!), I have to visually find C3 (or C2 or C1, whichever) via the Mode button, select it, and then and only then go back to trying to get the shot/shots. Problematic. My eye has been off the target/potential target so more valuable time is inevitably lost while I regather it. If it's still worth shooting - which it often will not be. The R5, in many positive reviews, has been hailed for the extent to which it can be customised, so it seems almost incredible to me that there is not some means of allocating my BIF settings to a button where a single press would give me that opportunity. (I appreciate many BIF specialists will be dedicated to that single task, and be set up just for that, but one of the very many beauty's of the R5/100-500mm combo, for the generalist amateur like me, is that you could be taking a landscape one second, while rambling about, and then have the opportunity for a great BIF shot. Hopefully I've missed something, and a tweet will give me access to that opportunity....)
I will try your settings (not all of them but 90% of them). Hopefully I will get better results. Anyway, good explanation on your video
Good luck! and thanks for commenting
What the deal with the image stabilization always on. Having that on waiting for birds must drain battery, plus I think I'd rather have it off for doing birds in flight. Any thoughts on this?
You can turn IS off via the switch on the lens. On older lens if IS is on then it will not shut down when not shooting, but on say, my 600mm f/4 Mk. II it does shut down as it should. Problem is only on older EF lenses.
Thanks Ron, I have revisited my settings after having had my R5 for a little while and am going to implement your settings . I found the last section re IS on the lens really interesting. I have been struggling trying to get accurate focus on some of my BIF images (peregrines flying around a cathedral). I’ve lost no end of images to blurry outcomes when I thought they should be sharp. I have been using Setting 1 on my lenses (100-500 or 500 prime.] the problem is sometimes they are perched and I want that stabilisation for that moment, but then they take off and fly around. Following your thoughts I might want to turn off IS altogether. Not something easy to do when in situations like this. Wouldn’t it be fantastic if there was some way that I could set my IS to turn off and back on just by pressing a button on my camera….. I would customise my DOF button to that. Canon are you listening 😊. Great tips Ron …. Thank you.
Thank you for this video. so much great information. I've got an r5 now after using the Mark iii for years. Besides photographing birds in flight, I also photograph my 7 year old granddaughter's soccer games. What setting changes from this video would I need to make for that scenario? Thanks!
what is the r5 for birds in flight ? Sony Northrup one video it is a piece of shit 2 months later is the best thing since slice bread!!! what a joke was there a firmware update for this camera ??
Based on my one year of shooting the R5 , it is a great all around camera , including for birds in flight. There have been firmware updates that continue to make it better and give it more capabilities. The only way to know if it will work for you is to try it yourself. Cheers. Ron
I appreciate this info so much! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve come back and reset my settings. Seems like after I do a camera update I lose my settings - so thankful for this info! ❤
Great video! I've recently purchased the R5 after shooting for many years on a secondhand Canon EOS 7D/EF 100-400 (Version 1!!) set up. I felt like I finally had reached a point in my photography where the better kit would be worth splurge. Thanks for the solid advice and explanations. I feel like you've explained well enough that I can better understand how to take your suggestions and tweak for my personal use.
I just found your video and I am so pleased that I did. I have now been able to capture Great Horned Owls in flight! Thank You!
This was very useful, especially selecting focus using back buttons, thanks. One oddity, perhaps I missed something, but after carefully entering all the settings my R5 would not do ES multiple shots, only "one shot". It seems that "drive highspeed continuous +" can't be set from "menu", but it is available from the "Q menu". Seems like an oversight in Canon's design?
Thanks for this video, maybe a dumb question but can these settings be used for all moving and motionless wildlife? Thanks for your time.
Hi great help thanks. When i go to set my auto focus point selection button to spot with the 4 items you suggest the option to register the settings is greyed out and i cannot set them. Any help would be great.
You do not want to register the settings. Just check mark the options you want the button to initiate and back out of the menu. If the button then initiates things you don't want, go back into the detail set for register and recall a shooting function and reset the defaults then make sure what you want is set up and check marked and back out of the menu. I hope this helps.
Late to the comments here, but only because I'm expecting my R5 to be delivered early next week and I'm currently researching set up. So a quick question as regards Crop Mode (x1.6). If the RAW image is about 45Mb and the CRAW is about 27Mb and you say that using Crop Mode will give about a 17Mb image, can I assume that's from a RAW file and that the CRAW file will give maybe around a 12Mb image? Or have I misunderstood? Most of all, thanks for this video which I'm so glad to have found. As a long standing BIF photographer I'm eager to see how the R5 can make things a little easier for me now I'm getting a little older!
I believe you are confusing image size (megapixels) and file size (megabytes). When you use crop mode you reduce the image size from 45 megapixels to about 27 megapixels on average. When you chose CRAW over RAW you are not changing the image size, you still have 45megapixels, but the file size in megabytes is reduced.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks, yes of course - I realised not long after but ended up forgetting to delete my comment. Today I'm awaiting delivery of a new R5 after I had to return the one I received last week because it kept giving me regular, but intermiitent "Error Code 70" messages. Fingers crossed this one arriving today is perfect.
Just got my r5 today and set it up accordingly for bif. like the control ring for the focus points, that saves a lot of time, thanks again.
"Release Shutter without a Card" is a feature which Canon gave to the camera stores. Firing the shutter on demo cameras helps get sales over-the-counter.
Thank you, I use all your settings except for eye detection and animal mode for the upcoming airshow.
I hope you do the same for Canon R3. Can hardly wait for your new video of R3. Thank you, again.
Awesome congratulations many thanks 🙏 from Brazil
Thank you very much!
OMG after making all the great changes ,I began a few test shots. Nothing was working. Well, wouldn't you know I changed to electronic shutter. I hope like you that Canon will give us just a little sound.
Yes, the R5 needs a simulated shutter noise for ES. So many of my clients feel the same way. Come on Canon do it for us!
This was very good! Loved the info about the "Same expo for new aperture" (at 37:00 minutes) and switching it to ISO. Makes it so much more reassuring to use the 100-500. I have been all over the map over the past 4 months with my custom dials and buttons and I have been struggling. So I look forward to trying this new set-up.I am confused about one thing. I set my AF point button to large zone AF, hit register current settings then apply settings but it defaults back to the single point AF. I no longer do much BIF so would prefer to have the zone AF on the harder to reach button ie. the AF point button and use the * button for metering and AF single point start. What am I doing wrong?
Or Plan B: How would I set up my custom buttons if I wanted to use my shutter button to acquire focus? My main AF method would be Animal eye detect+ tracking and then could I use the * button for single point and the AF button for large zone? Would this work? I just tried to do this and once again the AFbutton reverts back to what I have set in my main menu which is animal eye detect/tracking and not large zone AF. Help!
My experience similar to Doug Ridgway above is that you want to make the changes but then do NOT select “register current settings”, just instead hit “menu” button and exit out. The “register current settings” seems to take the camera’s current settings and overwrites the customization selections that you had just entered. This register current settings command is a bit confusing, and does not “register” the settings you had just entered. Hope this helps!!
I misspoke in the video. Make the changes and do not Register Current Settings. Sorry, Ron
@@keithmcleod457 Thanks Keith. I appreciate your help,
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hi Ron, I really enjoy your informative videos and have learned so much since subscribing, many thanks!! Happy to be able to contribute back in a small way. So much to learn in how best to utilize the amazing power and customization features of the R5 .....
Thank you so much for the video . A lot of good information specially about the IS on the lens.
Ron, I’ve solved the shutter issue, however I needed to reset the whole camera. So it must be a certain setting in menu that the shutter doesn’t like. I’m slowly working through your custom listings to establish which one it could be affecting shutter firing so strange !,
Keep me posted on what you find.
Small update Ron, everything seems to be working fine now. I’ve come to the conclusion that I hate the shutter button on the R5 especially if no beep because I’m not sure I’ve taken a picture in the field? So for the moment I’m very pleased overall with this canon model however the shutter release is going to take sometime to get used to it regards Steve
Thanks for this update! The 3 options for AF are great, saves me time. Think I lost some shots but feel that this will help to get them the next time.
Glad it was helpful!
sir, ur introductory video is excellent, my suggestion increase the timeline it would be fantastic
Yesterday I was shooting eagles. They were quite far away. I was wondering if I should turn off eye detection when birds are far away? Do you have a video that discusses this. Thank you
I would definitely turn off the eye detection when shooting distant birds.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you for all your help and advice. Your videos are outstanding and I truly appreciate the time you put in to them
Thanks for the video, Ron. It's very good. I have a couple of questions. When would you use image stabilization? I have the R5 with a RF100-500 lens on a mono-pod. We'll be in South Georgia Island and the Falklands, shooting penguins from a rubber zodiac. We have another trip to Pantanal, Brazil, shooting birds & wildlife from a hard-bottomed boat with a lot of vibration. I understand that for BIF it makes sense to have Image Stabilization turned off, but in my situation, both boats will be rocking, and the vibration will be a factor. I'm very petite, and cannot hand-hold the camera, so I need to use the mono-pod. Also, the lens has the 3 stabilization modes. I know that mode 2 is for panning, but if there is an appropriate reason to use Image Stabilization while in the boats, should I be on mode 3 for the erratic movement or mode 1 for static? Thanks.
I would try mode 1 as it will stabilize the VF for you making it much easier to get and stay on your subject. There is another thing that could help you deal with shooting on boats and other unstable ground. It will allow you to isolate your camera from the movement unlike a monopod that has to be resting on the bottom of the boat. It is a photography harness system I make and sell. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/GdI2jzxoNJQ/v-deo.html
Can you use those same settings for any type of photography? Portrait/landscapes?
Thank you this is my first time doing bird photography so hopefully I can set it all up :-)
Have a question Ron, in Electronic Shutter can I control the amount of shots by the time you hold down the shutter, or is it every time I press the shutter I get 20 frames?
With ES you get 20 frames per second. So, if you hold the shutter button down for one second you will get 20 frames taken. If you hold for less than 1 second you get the fraction of 20 depending on the fraction of the second you hold it down. Now, you can shoot in single shot mode. If in single shot mode you get only one frame each time you press the shutter button no matter how long you hold it down without letting it up.
@@whistlingwingsphotography @Whistling Wings Photography So single shot in ES sounds appropriate for perched birds, while heavy action you'll want 20fps. Do you have a button set up to switch you fast . How do you have your R5 set up using ES. Also do you have a button set up for FF vs Crop mode to switch you fast. Canon needs a FW update to address the ES 20fps with other options.
Wow, very informative video! How come i never came across any of your videos on UA-cam? And i have been watcing videos like that for years. UA-cam search sucks. If not for a friend in a FB group, i would have never found it! Very detailed and informative, aldo not my exact setup preferences. Note on CRAW - it does not change the megapixels but it compresses the RAW file in a fashion similar to JPEG, so you kind of lose details, specially if shooting high ISO (i think). The difference can be negligible, but its visible if you pixel-peep :)
Thanks so much for the comment. Glad you found my channel and found it informative.
To save the modified settings for registering a new recall setting, just hit the Menu button when done. If you press register the "Current" settings, all changed settings reverts to the camera settings before the changes. I learned this on the R3, and likely true for the R5.
Yes, that is correct. Do not hit the Register Current Settings button.
I adopted your new setting for birds in flight, thanks a lot for all that hard work Ron doing those tutorial. They really help my Birds in Flight with my Canon R5.
1- Will or would your choice of setting in the menu change with the new Firmware 1.4.0 ?
2- Is there a way to show you some pictures that we did of Birds in Flight ?
3- They say there is no stupid question... I would like to know if the shutter count ad-up when using electronic shutter ?
Hey, thanks so much for watching. Regarding your questions. 1) Nope. the new firmware affected the IS/IBIS performance, so no camera menu changes, but I have now started to use IS Modes 2 and 3 again like I used to do with my DSLR bodies. So, that is good. 2) Sure, you can send me images. Depending on how large the files are you could just email them to ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com or you can use WeTransfer or DropBox to share them with me. 3) from what I understand, no, it does not. Only mechanical shutter releases count on the camera's "counter." This is from a Canon field rep. He was not sure this was the case, but was almost sure; whatever that means. I have yet to confirm this.
Ron, one question, i noticed there was a slightly older video were you did the 3rd BBF button a bit differently (simpler in my mind). Any comment on these two methods i.e. using "register/recall shooting func" vs "switch to registered AF func". If i recall right you used the latter in some older video and do it now with the former way (which seems more cumbersome to me)..
Petri, the “register/recall shooting func” allow you to assign an AF method to a back button and only have to press that button to activate the AF method. The previous method you had to press two back buttons, one to switch to the registered AF func and the other to have the camera actually start AF and use the registered function. So, to me the register/recall method is much easier to use.
I hope this helps. Thanks so much for your interest in my videos.
Sincerely,
Ron
My R5 under "Power Saving" I have the option "Viewfinder off" Disable
Yep, but on my R5s it does not do anything,.
@@whistlingwingsphotography The setting causes the viewfinder to shut off (leaving only the LCD for composing)
This is very usefull tips for setting R5. When you was shooting at hight shutter speed. Did you turn IBIS on camera off and let len IS on or turn off both?. Can I just turn len IS off and let IBIS for same resulf? Thank!
Nope, you cannot turn IS off and leave IBIS on or the other way around. If you have an IS lens attached to the camera the switches on the lens IS also control IBIS, so IS Off on lens equals IBIS off in camera. If you attach an non-IS lens t the camera then you get a menu item in the camera that allows you to turn IBIS on or off.
I have a new R5 and I am trying to sort out how to use the 2 card slots. I tend to agree that I really don't need to use the SD card as a back up. So, I will be recording everything to a fast CFexpress card that is large capacity. Question is - what should I use for an SD card. I assume there is some concern that a too slow SD card will interfere with high frame rate shooting? What is fast enough for the SD card when used as an overflow card as you recommend? Thanks for your great work on the channel. It has been a big help to me.
I use Lexar 1667x and they have worked well for me.
Here is how I get the viewfinder to stay? on for me. I set my display on 30 min. I set my info button to be able to cycle to off for the screen. When Im in the field, and on something, I turn off the screen via the info button. The viewfinder will remain active for 30 muinites. the eye sensor thingy will turn off when you remove your head. A quick push of your focus button, or half press of shutter, snaps it on. I think this is the best solution for power savings, and speed that I have found.
Thanks for the comment. Always good to hear how other people do things.
You have to use face tracking in main menu with AED to use those initial point options. If you use the custom AED shortcut with BB it will not use those points as it always defaults to auto.
How does it compare to the R6?
Very helpful. Is there a shutter speed that you generally use/recommend for birds in flight, or does it vary depending on the type of bird? I have the 800mm F11 so aperture is already fixed.
If your goal is to stop all motion including the winds then the SS is def bird dependent. For any bird other than hummingbirds if you can get 1/4000s of a second you will stop just about all motion. That said, if you are good at panning with a flying bird you can shoot as slow a shutter speed as you want to get blur introduced to create a sense of motion. It really all depends on what type of image you are trying to make. To end this, I will say that overall I would try to get a shutter speed of over 1/1000s as a general rule. Hope this helps.
I appreciate a lot all that you've done but I do not understand what is the extra benefit of having zone AF as an extra back button focus. I mean if the eye doesn't work you go to spot in what kind of scenario are you using the zone AF. Tnx in advance.
That button initiates the main AF method I have selected. Zone was just an example. I may have it set to a single point with assist points and I use that for BIF sometimes when the bird blends with the background. The point is you can have 3 AF methods at your thumb tip and that is a big deal to me.
Thanks. Great video
Hi Ron excellent video. I have ordered my R5 and pairing up with 100-400 ef now. But in future I'm planning to get a EF 500mm F4 for birding. What's your opinion on autofocus speed and sharpness..
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. Given I am not sure which lens you are inquiring about I will provide my thoughts on both. First, I will assume we are discussing the Mk. II version of both the 100-400 and 500 4, because the Mk. I versions do not work well on the R5 with regards to autofocus and fps speed of the R5. This would not matter for most types of photography, but for birds it can be critical as I am sure you know. Thus, I do not recommend either of those lenses for the R5. The Mk. II versions are a different matter. They both work very well on the R5 with good AF speed and great sharpness. I would not hesitate at all to get the 500 f/4 Mk. II and pair it with the R5. It is an awesome combo and it allows use of both the 1.4x and 2.0x TCs with great overall performance. That is one of the great benefits of the 500 and 600 f/4 big whites. I hope this is helpfull.
@@whistlingwingsphotography My apology I did not mention the version 😂. Amazing. Thinking about the price point of RF lenses I thought EF telephotos are really good bet. Thanks a lot for your input and suggestions. I will share my experience in filming with this combo. Thanks again. 😊
Hi Ron, Thanks to you I purchased an R5 recently very pleased and followed all your settings to the letter for birds in flight. However now when fitted with canon 100-400 and 2x extender plus adapter _ the shutter won’t fire ? So strange is it one of your custom setups that stop me taking my first photo, very frustrated please help!!
I cannot think of a reason why that combo would not work on the R5 with my settings. One thing does come to mind, but I don't think it should matter. However, let's give it a try. Turn off the "Same Exposure for Different Aperture" if you have it set to ISO and you have the ISO limited to a certain maximum value. If this is not it, I am not sure what could be keeping the shutter from firing. I will dig into this to see if I can figure out anything.
Just tried this Ron OFF still doesn’t work the shutter unfortunately very weird sadly
@@stevebristow8412 I have no idea then. It should work as I know folks who are using the combo. I am wondering if there is a communication problem that the TC is causing. Maybe the contacts are not making good connection. If you can get your hands on another TC and see if it works you can determine if it is the TC
The other possibility is that I forgot to tell you is that I have an adapter with the control ring fitted would that be the issue ?
Superb! The triple AF I’m adopting. I follow you bird guys because you all know how to compose properly yet quickly. Birds, kids, dogs, bridal parties can all be pretty fast so look at how the specialists work their gear I say. But now you’re gonna cost me 2800 bucks since I want that 100-500 for birds. I’m a bird convert…. Just phenomenal shots sir.
Hey, thanks so much. Yep, the new cameras allow for a lot of customization and I love the AF options.
I want this camera....now!
Thank you Ron! I am new to mirrorless and to Canon and had setup my R5 through another tutorial. Yours is a much better and easier to understand approach. The only thing I have not been able to figure out how to do is to be able to review my focus point after I take a shot. I have AF Point Display Enabled in Play5 but I still can not see it when I view images. Is there anyway to see the focus point of an image after you have taken it? Tx
Yes, and it seems you have the setting set to allow for review of the AF point. However, the AF point is only viewable in playback when the entire image is displayed. If you Zoom in at all on the image then the AF point disappears. This may be what is happening. If not let me know and I will look into it further.
is it unusual to be getting a thermometer emblem in-screen on my r5 when shooting birds in flight."
Nope. It is telling you the camera is getting warm. I assume it was a warm day and you had been shooting a bunch of long burst or looking through the viewfinder a lot. I get the thermometer icon from time to time, but the camera is still fine and I just keep on shooting.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron, Yes its been Very HOT down here in fl as you know. The first time it happened i was holding the back button longer than usual as i looked thru the viewfinder waiting for an osprey to take off, so i assume that combination over heated the camera. The next time i was aware of not holding it as long but i noticed the outer part of the camera was getting hot and it came on. I've never noticed this before, thanks again for your help
Thanks so much for this update. I tried these settings today and had some nice results. I didn't hear you mention metering. Do you typically use spot metering, evaluative, or other for birds in flight?
Dan, I shoot full manual exposure and so the meter does not affect my exposure. So, in essence I don't use any metering. Of course the meter is still active in the sense that the pointer on the metering scale is still moving around providing me input if I want it, but I have found with mirrorless cameras set to show the exposure through the VF I just use that to set my exposures.
Excellent video. Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.
Hi Ron, excellent Videos!!! One question: which grip did you mount on the tripod clamp? Thx, Jörg
Sorry, but I am not sure what you are asking.
Thanks for the update it was super helpful to me to go back and setup my focusing methods from wide to spot at the fingertips... Very Cool!
Glad it helped!
The setting "One-Shot AF release prior" under AF, Tab 4 is better set to "shutter" instead of "focus" as you have, isn't it?
When I am shooting one shot my emphasis is on focus, so I set it to focus. For some, it may be better set on the other option. It all depends on shooting style. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Ron, following you ever since I have R5. Honestly, ur each and every video surpasses my expectation. Just wondering if you could also plan to have all of your settings saved in card (that came with new FW update) and then share that file in your channel. It would be great help .
I will consider that. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video Ron and your birds in flight photos are awesome. I have a question will these settings work with the R6. I managed to to get the settings registered in my R6 but can't get out until the weekend.
Yes, absolutely they should. Let me know how it goes this weekend.
I went through your entire setup---its terrific--do you turn off Image Stabilization on your Lens when using a Tripod?
Yep, I turn it off.
I found a lot of information that was useful. I use the Canon EOS R6 which has the same AF system. I set up that third back button for a zone. Also, the advice about turning up the shutter speed and turning off IS on the RF100-500mm L lens while shooting birds in flight is very interesting. I'm going to try this next time I'm out. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for the comment.
Thank you Ron. The third back button option was news to me and your comments made me reconsider some other settings. You made a comment about the option on function menu 4 to enable release shutter w/o lens. I agree that for birds in flight this would not be of any benefit, it is however a useful option for non-electronic and therefore fully manual lenses for example digiscoping. Great video again, thank you.
Thanks so much for the comment and adding info to the discussion. Great add with the fully manual lenses.