THANK YOU!!! Finally someone who understands the Tracking and Accel./Decel. functions in the auto focus menu. I tried your settings and what an improvement to my BIF shooting. I've experimented and struggled with this on my R5 for over a year now. In simple two dimensional situations such as the subject moving in a straight line left to right, almost any Case setting will work most of the time but when the subject is moving three dimensionally i.e. left, right, up, down AND forward and backwards having the Accel./decel set to the max has made a huge difference to the auto focus stickiness. Once again, I thank you.
To solve the viewfinder issue, you can assign a button to toggle quickly between viewfinder and LCD screen. That way your viewfinder will always be ON.
Great video and I learned a few things, thank you! I pretty much had my rig set up the same way you do with a few exceptions. In addition to eye AF assigned to the AF-ON button I also set single point AF to the * button. That way if I'm trying to hit something close to a busy background I can hit it with the single point in servo rather than have the camera try and hunt around and hit a branch or something. I found this particularly useful today, for example, shooting gators...the R5 just doesn't want to focus on the gator's eye and always goes for the nose - the single point servo AF took care of that. I took this one step further and assigned the AF Point button (the button to the right of the * button) to return focus point to center in case I move it and want to center it quickly. Finally, I assigned the DOF preview button to Drive Mode, that way I can switch quickly to single shot for subjects that I don't need to shoot in a burst. Anyhow, that is what has worked for me. The R5 plus 100-500 is a fantastic rig!
Thank you so much for this video. I am from Denmark, and all MY spare time - I take pictures of birds.. And I just got the most fun camera: R5:) Now I have to know it well, and you are so helpful here. Thank you
Even after viewing your other R5 videos, I found your explanations here helpful. I especially liked the review of IS modes, tracking sensitivities, and default menu AF settings with back button over-rides. I am curious, though, about the impact of having Subject turned on for Animals when the AF method is set to zone or spot in the default mode. Is Subject just ignored? Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much for the tips on this camera/lens setup. As far as BBF. I wish the R5 had a larger button for BBF. Especially when it is cold outside, my fingers don't move as fast as when it is warm. Any suggestions on the mechanics on the back button?
Do you find that you still use the case 2 how you set it here with the R3 as well? Any changes you have made since you made this video? For any of the new cameras. Thank you!! Gary
A bigger issue for me at first was how the camera would go into sleep mode after a minute. Had to do some googling to discover the Power setting (duh!) and changed it to 3 min. Curious what you set yours to.
Thanks for the video. IDK if you already answered this, but I would assume the negative setting for tracking would reduce the tracking efficiency. In other words, it would prioritize correct focus over tracking. no?
Very informative! Thanks for posting this. I'm using a Canon 7D II with the Canon 100-400 IS II lens and thinking about upgrading. Still on the fence between getting the R5 or going the Sony route with the A9ii and 200-600, but your results clearly show the R5 is competitive with the Sony system. Tree Swallows are my BIF nemesis. More erratic than Barn Swallows and faster than Purple Martins. Well done!
@@fgb3126 Yes I did. Purchased an R5 in late 2021 year and an R7 about six months ago. Use both with the RF 100-500mm. Love the R7's reach for perched birds, but I find the R5's AF more consistent for BIF.
the only thing i can suggest is olympus ee dot sight if the af is that good it will lock on ive used it on sony a7riv 200-600 @600 on hobbies hunting dragonflies . the dot sight give you a wide normal eye view but with a red circle cross one the dot sight is calibrated use a tripod and live view .
My 100-500 is on (back)order, can’t wait for it to get here. This is a very informative video, thanks for the recommendations! I will definitely be trying them out. I’m currently using a 70-200 f2.8 with my R5 but have to crop so much I lose a lot of sharpness, even for birds at my feeder. Keep the videos coming!
I don't have that lens, so unfortunately I cannot say if it would work for this lens. My experience has been that third-party lenses usually do not behave quite the same way, so the only way to know is to experiment.
I have the R6 and the new 600f11 and the 800f11, but I think the lens to have is the 100-500 which is backordered. Do you think the R6 is just as good for flyers if cropping with the sensor is not a consideration? Trying to decide to keep the R6 or get the R5. Thanks for your thoughts.
I do not have an R6 but I have shot one off and on since it came out and it is a very capable camera. For me, it really comes down to whether you need the 45mp and for me given I do so much bird photography I would not go less now that I can have 45mp and 20fps. That combo is a game changer for my photography. Overall, I do think the R5 AF is a bit better too.
Awesome video’s helped a lot! I own a R5 with 100-500 and EF 400 2.8 had superb autofocus but on latest software the animal tracking is not that great anymore for some reason, do you had/have the same problems on latest firmware?
I was just down in the Everglades last month and was surprised I used the 100-500RF more than I did my 600/4 IS II. It’s a great lens and I’m looking forward to trying to get swallows in flight here at home this summer. I have tried before with my old 1DX2 but it really was just trying to get lucky. With the EVF I’ve just got used to hitting the shutter halfway as I raise the camera to my eye.
Hi. Have been doing everything except accel/decel tracking all the way to the right. thanks will give it a go. Anyhow the combo R5 and 100-500 is amazing.
Fantastic tips on shooting extreme bird in flight Ron, always very interesting to learn from you. I finally got my RF 100-500mm is only to send it back to Canon because one of the glass element inside was broken and I could not get any sharps images at all !!! Waiting for a new one... Just hope it wont take 3 monts to get the new one... Getting much better image quality with practice with the ef 300mm f/2.8 with is off, but when I look at the focus point (red square) on the picture it's on the eye at the first shot and goes off the bird to finally lose focus after 2 or 3 shots... I am on electronic shutter and on gimbal and tripod.
I have found that the AF indicator often times is a bit behind where the camera has actually focused. It seems there is a delay in the camera placing the AF indicator. I have images from all my shoots with the indicator off the subject and the bird is sharp. Seems to me the system for placing the indicator needs to be refined.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron I agree with you I do have great shot in focus with the Focus all over the picture ! Your doing a great job and I appreciate all your hard work and sharing Thanks again.
There should be a sensor near the eyecup which I presume if covered up with tape would make the camera act as if you're looking through the viewfinder.
Yep, but personally I don't think we should have to put tape on a sensor to get the EVF to stay on if that is what we need to get the images we are after. Seems like a simple menu item would not be difficult to implement.
Thanks so much for another clear and helpful video with great pictures. You really have become the master of the R5/100-500 combo! Looking forward to trying my R5 and 100-400 on the peregrines next week for a good workout after the motherboard replacement because of the repeated crashes I was having. Catherine d.
HI, I have found your video very helpful but I have a question for you - is it possible to have one back button programmed for tracking and another with the tracking function off for taking pictures of a sitting bird at a distance when I might want to use the magnifying glass function (not available in tracking) to see if I am correctly focused? Canon people seem unable to help me with this. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.
I shoot full Manual, so I do not use Auto ISO. I set my ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture to get the exposure I need to get the birds exposed correctly in the light I will be shooting them. If I let the camera's meter change any of the parameters (including ISO) it can mess up the exposure I want on my birds, because the meter is making changes based on the luminosity of the entire scene (unless you set it to center weighted or spot, which don't work well for most of what I do) which may change as I pan across the area the birds are traveling. By shooting full Manual the birds will always be exposed as I intend no matter the luminosity of the background behind them.
Sorry didn't quite get it. Did you end up turning the stabilizer off or leave it on and use mode 1? Thanks. Looked again got it. turn on stabilizer and mode 1. That's what I have been doing because I never have a situation like you where I have swallows in a particular spot. anyway so far. My birding at the moment is wandering around and fast or slow birds can appear randomly. Thanks for your video. Great.
Yes, if you have the light to get to a fast enough shutter speed. When shooting birds like swallows or anything that is super fast or erratic I like to get to 1/4000s with the R5. For me it makes all the difference in getting tack sharp images. The AF on the 800 and 600 f/11 is very good as is the overall image quality. The only limitation is the speed of the lenses.
Great video. I was playing in my rainy back yard with the R5/6 with the 100-500 this rainy weekend and yes those birds are fast! Electronic is a MUST! I also liked your tip to put it to infinity, which I will have to try. As well as moving eye af to the af on button. Has your R5 ever froze on you and took so many seconds to restart?
@@whistlingwingsphotography I just noticed it a few times after an hour or so, then I turn it off and use the R6. But I’m using it with one LPE6NH battery. Do you think it would do better with the grip?
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank u Ron, I have much further testing to do. I’m definitely not trying to use my old LPE6N batteries with burst shooting anymore. Trying to stock up on NH batteries, but that comes at a price.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I am convinced that swallows are among the most difficult bird species to photograph, which makes it a desired subject. How close are you to the birds in these representative shots? Even at 30-40 feet the span between focus acquisition and pulling the trigger would need to be immediate.
Have you tried setting the metering timer to a longer value? It won’t keep the EVF always on, but it will keep it on longer. I use it to keep the camera ready when waiting for bees to emerge from their burrow, having to keep half pressing is getting tedious very quickly.
Hi Rod, thanks for your reply, I’ve looked at your video again to double check setting etc and notice your lens covers for the RF 100-500 lens, could I ask you where you purchased thieve covers from? It looks to be a great fit even where the lens retracts back into the body. Hope you can help, Regards Rich.
Presume the R6 would have most of the function setting you’ve applied to the R5 but be at 20 mp- on CRaw in the R6 I presume an approx 50% mp drop will result in images of 8-10mp... do you think images of small active birds at this mp count, given one might have an additional crop, will be potentially competitive as those you’re getting with the R5? ( not withstanding the obvious mp trade offs, just in terms of image clarity) - appreciate the pointers- as a wildlife safari guide in Africa without access to gear especially in these times and looking to either upgrade Canon or switch ecosystems...in a market saturated with so many options- these pointers and results are very helpful. Tks v m.
I really love the 45mp of res of the R5. I always felt 20mp was a bit low to get max details out of small birds given the inherent need to crop a lot of bird images. But, Can you get nice looking images from the lesser res of the R6, absolutely
Thanks for the great video. Waiting for my R5, but have been following your informative videos in preparation to get out in the field. You are very inspirational.
Hey, thanks so much. I really appreciate the comment. Good luck when you do get your R5. There is a learning curve but once you get the feel for the camera I believe you will start making images better than you ever have before. It has changed how I shoot.
Great video. I need to find the swallows first. So which is better: IS turned off or IS on mode 1? Did you attach RF 1.4 extender? Any rolling shutter issue? I use ES to shoot flying ducks. Some images have weird looking wings. I think that was rolling shutter effect.
Both IS on set to mode 1 and set to off worked for me. However, I liked the look through the EVF (stabilized) with the IS set to mode 1 best and it did not seem to negatively affect the sharpness of my images. However, and I stressed this in the video, this only works for me if I am panning very quickly. If I am shooting "normal" BIF then I turn IS/IBIS off. I had no rolling shutter issues with the swallows. However, I have seen in my images of kingfishers in flight the "weird" wings you mention. That is indeed rolling shutter, or read delay issues. However, for me it happens only rarely and so I still use ES for the 20 fps when I am shooting very fast action so I maximize my chances of getting the ultimate image.
How does this body do with erratic birds in flight in front of a tree line vs. a blank sky background? The DLSRs always struggled with this. Also, did Canon every release a fix for the viewfinder lag time?
Ron, try this for keeping the evf on. Navigate to wrench menu, power saving, viewfinder off option, select disable. Hope that helps. Keep up the great videos.
I have both my R5s set up with this setting. VF still shuts down a few seconds after I take my eye away. I have not idea. Maybe my cameras are defective?
@@akinipeters From what I can tell, the choices available under the Power Savings menu regarding the ViewFinder Off, which are 3 minutes, 5 minutes, or Disable, do absolutely nothing. I have tried them all and made other settings changes and the EVF goes off after approx. 8 seconds from taking my eye away from the viewfinder. It should be simple to do what we are trying to do, so yep, Canon needs to address this.
The only thing this does is ensures that the viewfinder doesn't turn off when you have your eye up to it. If you have it set to 1 min for example it will still turn off after a minute even if you're looking through the viewfinder. I'm guessing they have this option so that you don't accidentally engage the viewfinder with a bag or something and burn through more battery. It doesn't fix the issue where it takes like a second or so for the viewfinder to fire up after you bring the camera to your eye. I hope this is addressed in a future firmware update.
I think I found a solution for the EVF going dark and you need to press the shutter button to refresh it so you don't lose a shot. Go to the MENU, AF, section 1. Enable the "Continuous AF" this will burn battery life but the EVF will remain on all the time. Hope this helps.
Yes, this is an option, but for a lot of my shooting scenarios I pre-focus on a spot and setting to Continuous AF makes that impossible. So, not a solution for me .
Thanks for a great presentation! Could you please elaborate around your choices of Metering methods when photographing birds in different types of situations?
Hey, thanks for the comment. I use evaluative metering and use the reading as a relative indicator to help set exposure. With mirrorless now basically showing you the exposure I pay less attention to the meter reading and more to the historgram in the viewfinder. Also, I shoot full Manual exposure, not Aperture or Shutter priority and I don't use Auto ISO, the meter does not affect my exposure. This is why I mention I use it as a relative gauge and then make any changes I need myself. Hope this is what you were looking for with regards to elaboration. Cheers. Ron
Hey Ron, two questions. IBIS mode 1 or mode 3, which do you recommend for fast shutter speeds and panning extreme BOF? Is there really a reason to choose one over the other? 2nd question: In the red camera menu, page 3: what did you set your picture style settings to?
I generally turn IS/IBIS off but I used mode 1 in my experiment because it stabilized the viewfinder while panning was where mode 3 will not do that. Thanks
I tried with a 70-200 on an 80D and failed , ended up with one resting on the railing. :P It's winter here in the north still and will have to wait for the barn swallows and tree swallows this spring to test on the R5/1-5 ! Thanks for your tips!
@@whistlingwingsphotography Well I gave it a shot! Thanks for the tips. I think I took about 1500 shots and started to get the hang of it. Here is a few of my keepers. Thanks again! facebook.com/TheHollingsworthGallery/posts/1106507099855167
@@chrishollingsworth7110 Chris, those are really great. Well done! You are getting the feel for it. Keep at it and the keepers will keep coming and get better and better. Ron __________________________________ Ron R Bielefeld Whistling Wings Photography Sebastian, FL 32958 Cell: 772-713-1216 www.whistlingwingsphotography.com
I notice that AF method (AF tab 1) was set to Zone. You set back buttons AF-on to "eye AF" and AE lock (*) to "Metering & AF start. Do you then have to press both buttons at the same time to get "eye AF" tracking?? If not what is the sequence? Press AF-on for "eye AF" to over-ride Zone and then press * to start metering and AF?
Here is how I now have my back buttons set up for AF. in your AF1 menu set things up as I have them in the first attached image (IMG_3741). Then, in the Customize Buttons set the Shutter butt. Half-press to Metering Start only (IMG_3742). Also in the Customize Buttons menu set the * button to Metering and AF Start (IMG_3743). Then set your main AF method to Zone using whatever method you have set up for changing your main AF method. For the AF-ON button, again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Eye Detection AF (IMG_3742). For the AF Point Selection Button (the button right of the * button), again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Register/recall shooting func. (IMG_3743). When you are in the Register /recall Shooting func submenu hit the INFO button on the bottom left of the screen to go another menu deeper. In the menu that comes up you will be able to check or uncheck boxes next to several shooting functions (see IMG_3744). Uncheck all of them except AF Method, AF Operation, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. You want those checked (see attached image 3744). Then, while still in the Register/recall Shooting Function menu, select the AF Method and set it to “Spot.” (see IMG_3745) Under AF Operation make sure it is set to ON. Set the Tracking Sensitivity and Accel./Decel. Tracking like I show in the attached image (3744). Once you are done with all this set up you will have the AF-ON button set to Eye Detect, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection Button set to Spot. So, if you want spot AF all you have to do is press the back AF Point Selection Button and you get just the center AF point to focus with. No squares grabbing some other area of the frame. Of course, you can change the AF method that the * button initiates just by choosing a different main AF Method such as expanded horizontal or vertical zone, single AF point, single AF point with surround points, etc. Give this set up a try. I think you will like it. You can find the images I reference via this link: ronaldbielefeld.smugmug.com/R5-menu-settings-for-AF-button-set-up/ Cheers, Ron
One more point, in the Register /recall Shooting Function sub-menu, I have AF Method, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. But I cannot find AF Operation. Is there somewhere else in the menu that I need to set for this to show up in this sub-menu?
Thanks Ron, great video. Speaking of video, how about in video mode, can’t seem to get an equivalent back focus going, different options and settings. Also, when programing the buttons there is another level of settings accessed by the info button which does not show up in video mode. What’s your best settings for following and locking focus on moving birds in video mode?
Very nice picture's and good information.. Have a question. What do you think of the AF speed of the RF 100-500 compared to the Canon 500mm Version 1. Is the RF 100-500 quicker, more consistent?
As a heads up to anyone who uses the Eye AF, you actually do want it set in the menu, opposed to only on the secondary button. When it is set in the menu as the "Main" method, it enables the white bracket pre-AF overlay. These are very helpful in picking up and confirming what the camera is set to track when you engage the AF. You can definitely use it the way Ron has it set and probably will be fine, but you lose the ability to know what its going to track (when your subject is recognized) and you lose the ability to choose left or right subjects using the arrows overlay and and the joystick.
Good point, Mike. Yes, if you are shooting something other than a single subject like the swallows, where there is only one subject to worry about at a time, you can set Eye AF as your main AF method as well. However, if you have your back button AF set up like I do with the AF-ON button defaulting to Eye AF , the AEL button set to initiate the AF method I have chose as my "Main" method, and my AF Point Selection button set to a registered AF method of 'Spot", if you also set your "Main" AF method to Eye AF you will have two back buttons that do principally the same thing; Eye AF. So you lose one AF method being at your thumb tip ready at a moments notice. In the end, it is what you need more for the shooting scenario you are in that dictates what set up you go with. Cheers.
There are at least a few videos out there that have compared RAW to CRAW and they have found almost no perceivable difference. I am not sure how Canon worked it, but when I peeped in real close and manipulated the shadows and the highlights I saw no difference in the images. By far, this new Canon sensor is the best I have ever used when it comes to the malleability of the images it produces.
Great video, vital information you’ve given us all, thank you. However what aperture, iso and shutter speeds are you getting to achieve both those wings body and eye sharp along with the insects! Unbelievable brilliant! Rich
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. You need good enough light to shoot 1/4000s to 1/8000s. I shot mostly 1/5000s for the swallows. My ISO was around 1600 and I was at 500mm, so f/7.1. That is wide open for the 100-500RF. Cheers.
No rolling shutter issues that I could detect. The background was water so no vertical items to be bent by RS and I have never seen RS issues in my subjects with the R5 except with wingtips of belted kingfishers. If the wing tip is moving very fast through the frame I do see some RS issues then, but not often enough to stop me from shooting ES. Cheers.
I tried your settings and technique - seemed to work ok I need more birds like you had - had a couple black phoebes but I did catch some with the insects - need more practice - what exact settings did you use f/stop and shutter speed
Great photos, I did not manage to do this with my 7dII a few years ago. I’ll try now with R6, just have to wait for swallows. what about rolling shutter problem with electronic shutter? what about aiming - did you crop a lot? it’s very hard to fill the frame with 500 mm and track swallow.
No the images are not large crops. It is difficult, but doable. No rolling shutter issues that have mattered to my images so far with the R5. Not sure what you mean about aiming. With practice I have come to just pick the bird start swinging the camera and bring it to my eye and the bird is there. Practice practice practice over 30 years. Thanks for the comment.
Good info here, Ron. Thanks. I have a custom menu tab set up for AF that includes tracking sensitivity and accel/decel tracking. Adjusting them directly overrides the configuration of the case setting and having them on a custom menu makes them much easier to access. One setting I haven't really played with is the 'Switching tracked subjects'. Curious to know if you have experimented with this?
I have and the setting does make a difference to the point where I have mine now set to "Initial Priority." I like to stay on the subject I have acquired almost always and if I want to switch I find that if I put the new bird in the center of the frame and pump the AF-ON button it still switches to that new centered subject. This tactic has worked well for me so far.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Oh, that's interesting. I was confused at first by the 'Initial Priority' description. These labels must have been changed since the first firmware. They were originally 'Disable', 'Enable (Slow) and 'Enable'. The new labels make more sense. I'll have to play around with this one. It reads a lot like tracking sensitivity to me but there must be a subtle difference. Thanks again!
@@SteveSSBB I am still figuring all this stuff out myself. That is one setting I have not messed with much, so my use of it and settings might change as I get into more different shooting scenarios. Take care.
I have my AF-ON button set to Eye AF, I have my AEL button set to AF Method (i.e., the AEL button initiates whatever AF Method I have selected with my control ring), and I have the AF Point Selection button to the right of the AEL button set to a registered AF Method which for me is Spot AF. So by pushing both the AEL and AF Point Selection button at the same time with my thumb I instantly get Spot AF. Thus, I have three AF Methods available at the tip of my thumb and in an instant. I love it.
It really depends on the type of photography you do most. If you do a lot of hand held static bird photography then I would upgrade as soon as possible because the mode 1 IS/IBIS is just so so good. Much better than when using the 100-400. Otherwise, it is kind of a draw unless you really need the extra 100mm. I will say that the IQ of the 100-500 with the 1.4x TC really is excellent as well, so there is that to add to the equation.
Hi Ron, another great video. Thank you so much for all your tips. I am wondering what the camo cover is you have on your lens? It looks like a really good fit. Could you let me know where you got it and what it is please?
I have not tried the 100-400 (I assume you are referring to the Mk. II version) Mk. II for swallows, I def. would give it a go with IS on mode 1 and see what happens. Like I have told some others, you can always turn it off if it is not working out.
For the most part yes it has stayed the same. I have started to change the Tracking Sensitivity and Accelerate/decel settings based on shooting scenario and I only use the IS for static subjects now with the exception of really fast moving BIF such as the swallows.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks. What do you have set for the Initial Servo AF Point (AF menu 5, first line)? Thanks for sharing!! And WOW... FANTASTIC images.
First I want to say that I have enjoyed your videos. I have a question about eye detection AF. I use BBF with single spot focus and another button for animal eye detection Af. I am having a problem with the animal eye detection jumping from the eye to branches etc. This has happen when focusing on the eye of an eagle sitting on the nest not moving and the animal eye detect would jump to something else in the nest that is closer in the frame. Is there anyway to prevent this from happening. Thank you for any advice you can give.
In the AF4 menu I suggest setting the Switching Tracked Subjects to "0" which the the "Intitail Priority" setting. It helps, but there is always going to some situations where it will think something other than an eye is an eye.
Hey Ron, do you use any third party NR & sharpening apps for your image processing, or do you use (or not use) just in-camera and/or LR NR & sharpening in post? Thanks, Rick.
If I need NR and Sharpening I am now using Topaz AI Sharpen and AI DeNoise. They really are great. I generally use a bit of sharpening on all my images as they are RAW and I don't employ any sharpening in LR or PS before using Topaz as a plug-in to PS. I have not had to use much NR with the Canon R5 and I do not use in-camera NR. I tend to turn everything off on the camera I can to keep the amount of processing the camera has to do to a minimum. There is just so much "band-width" available and I want the camera concentrating on fps and AF speed and accuracy.
Does C RAW still allow Canon DPP to apply lens correction in post ? On my 5D4, using any RAW mode other than the full highest quality RAW, the lens correction is disabled in DPP. I discovered a few years ago that DPP has the and sharpest lens correction for Canon lenses and now is an integral part of my work flow.
I would not use IS in mode 1 for slow BIF. I recommend turning off IS if you are shooting slower BIF and strive for good shutter speed to help with getting tack sharp images.
I would give it a 7 due to the slow aperture. BIF requires fast shutter speeds in general and unless you have great light the 800 is just too slow. The AF and sharpness are great and that bouys my rating up.
Just found your channel. Thanks for the timely video. I am a hobbyist and recently upgraded to R5. Decided to try bird photography ( God help me!) but have to really learn some skills! Retiring from day job end of the month and plan to really spend quality time with my camera!
Thank you for the video. I have always been reluctant to use electronic shutter for fast moving subjects (particularly with song birds) because of the rolling shutter artefacts. Have you had any issues with your swallows? I always get this weird edges around wings when they flap really fast
No, I do not. I tend to have the best luck doing any such corrections in post processing. My general philosophy is I have the camera do only what I absolutely need it to do, thus freeing up processor "bandwidth" to do the most important things to getting good imagery. This may be a flawed philosophy, but it works for me.
I just can’t see spending almost 7k for one when the R5 will do 95% of what the a1 appears to do for basically half the price. I have two R5s. I also like Canon’s durability.
@@whistlingwingsphotography the A1 will not shoot 30fps on a moving subject - it slows down to less than 20 fps. 30 fps is only static subjects and only with the G lenses. The tracking on the R5 actually works better than the A1.
Just as a data point on durability I shot Sony for several years (A6000, A6300, RX100IV, A7II, A7RII, two A7RIII's, A7RIV, A9II) and never had a single issue through at least 500,000+ combined exposures. I recently switched to a Canon R5 and it began failing on me during professional shoots a few weeks ago, about four months into ownership and maybe 20,000 exposures. It started constantly locking up with "Error 20" when shooting EFCS or mechanical shutter, requiring a reboot. Fortunately Canon replaced the shutter for free. I picked up a second R5 while it was being repaired since I do love the camera/system and I now have one as a backup. Hopefully it was a one off issue but I thought it was interesting that it ended up being the first major problem I've had with a camera body after a flawless experience with nine Sony's and one Olympus.
I have tried it and it works as you would expect. You lose some detail in images, but the AF works really well. I just don't use it because it make the lens too slow for most of what I do. If you can handle the huge f you get then it might fit your shooting.
It's been a year and I've "successfully" avoided buying either the R6 or R5, and now after reading some of the reviews on B&H I'm kinda glad I did. I see you use an R5. Have you had quality control issues? Do you still find the lay out OK?
You can have one back button set to Metering and AF Start (for example the AF-ON button) and another back button say the AF Point Selection button set to toggle between Servo and One Shot. So if you have your main AF method set to single point and have it placed in the center and have Servo AF set in the main AF menu, when you press the AF-ON button you get servo tracking with the center point. Quickly hit the AF Point Selection button and now you have one center point in One Shot mode. Hope this helps.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks. I could not get it to switch all the functions that I wish to change between BIF and a "normal" exposure. I have elected to set up BIF as a custom function. Switching is a little slower than I hoped but it works. Thanks.
It is called Mossy Oaks Graphics and it is a sheet material you apply yourself. Here is a video with more info: ua-cam.com/video/iM2I-Le_VYU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video, Ron! I have stopped using BBF for BIF and use Art Morris focus method instead on my R5 with good (better?) results. Any comments on that?
I don't know Art Morris' focus method. I personally have great success with BBF and can set up 3 different AF methods on the 3 Back buttons and have them ready at all times at my thumb tip. I have no reason to change, but other should always experiment to find what works best for them.
@@bd-nc7lc This is some of the main points from AMs Canon R5 userguide. I Can send the whole guide to you if want that: Limit AF methods. This one is so important that you will want to add it to page 1 of your My Menu. Setting this correctly is step one in eliminating the insanity of using multiple back buttons for bird photography, especially the photography of birds in flight. Check the box for Face Detection plus Tracking. The next one, Spot AF, is optional. If you shoot birds in cluttered situations, you may want to check this box. If not, un-check it as I do. Next is 1-point AF. This box cannot be un-checked and often comes in handy. The next two boxes are Expand AF method (five points) and Expand AF method: Around (nine points). Un-check those two. Then check the box for Zone AF. Now un-check the last two boxes: Large Zone AF: Vertical and Large Zone AF: Horizontal. You must remember to scroll to OK and hit the Set button or your changes will not stick.... The AF Method Switching Solution By now, you are probably asking, So what is the magic solution? Just how do we switch the AF Method quickly and easily? Here’s how you do it: Go to the Custom Functions 3 (Orange) Menu. The third item down is Customize Buttons. Hit the Set button and scroll down in the left column (camera as opposed to video) until you get to Set Button. Then hit the Set button again. A screen with a multitude of options will pop up. Fortunately, the item we want is the third one in the top row: Direct AF method selection. Scroll to that and hit Set. Now you are ready for the magic. With the camera turned on (and a lens attached with the M/AF switch set to AF), press the Set button until you see the large square that indicate Zone AF. Press the set button again and you will be in Face Detection + Tracking AF. Press it again, and you will be in 1-point AF. Pressing it once more toggles you back to Zone AF..... With all of the cameras I have ever used, this is the neatest, fastest, easiest, most convenient way to toggle through the AF Methods or Modes. For those currently using the multiple back button focus technique who feel that Zone acquires focus on birds in flight faster than Face Detection + Tracking AF, they can simply start with Large Zone AF, acquire focus, and then hit the Set button once to instantly switch to Face Detection + Tracking AF. Remember that the more AF Methods you have enabled (by checking the box under Limit AF methods), the longer it will take you to scroll through the various AF Methods. Three (or four if you go with Spot AF) will work just fine. With Limit AF methods on your My Menu page, you can easily add a Focus Method when you need one for a specific situation. And then remove it. Kind Regard Eyvind Rugland
@@eyvindru Thanks so much for providing this. I've never been comfortable strictly using BBF. A lot to consider here. The whole guide might be useful if it's no trouble. Thanks again.
THANK YOU!!! Finally someone who understands the Tracking and Accel./Decel. functions in the auto focus menu. I tried your settings and what an improvement to my BIF shooting. I've experimented and struggled with this on my R5 for over a year now. In simple two dimensional situations such as the subject moving in a straight line left to right, almost any Case setting will work most of the time but when the subject is moving three dimensionally i.e. left, right, up, down AND forward and backwards having the Accel./decel set to the max has made a huge difference to the auto focus stickiness. Once again, I thank you.
I am glad you found it useful. Thanks so much for commenting.
Bought the R5 this morning and my main photography subject is birds, so very happy to have found you! Awesome photography. Greetings from Rotterdam
Rotterdam, de mooiste stad van het land!!!!
Thanks so much for the comment.
That shot of the swallow honing in on the fly is amazing! Great job!
Hey, thanks so much. Much appreciated
To solve the viewfinder issue, you can assign a button to toggle quickly between viewfinder and LCD screen. That way your viewfinder will always be ON.
Great video and I learned a few things, thank you! I pretty much had my rig set up the same way you do with a few exceptions. In addition to eye AF assigned to the AF-ON button I also set single point AF to the * button. That way if I'm trying to hit something close to a busy background I can hit it with the single point in servo rather than have the camera try and hunt around and hit a branch or something. I found this particularly useful today, for example, shooting gators...the R5 just doesn't want to focus on the gator's eye and always goes for the nose - the single point servo AF took care of that. I took this one step further and assigned the AF Point button (the button to the right of the * button) to return focus point to center in case I move it and want to center it quickly. Finally, I assigned the DOF preview button to Drive Mode, that way I can switch quickly to single shot for subjects that I don't need to shoot in a burst. Anyhow, that is what has worked for me. The R5 plus 100-500 is a fantastic rig!
Thanks for the comment.
Page 768 of your R5 manual - Select viewfinder as the primary display.
Thank you so much for this video. I am from Denmark, and all MY spare time - I take pictures of birds.. And I just got the most fun camera: R5:)
Now I have to know it well, and you are so helpful here. Thank you
You are very welcome.
Even after viewing your other R5 videos, I found your explanations here helpful. I especially liked the review of IS modes, tracking sensitivities, and default menu AF settings with back button over-rides. I am curious, though, about the impact of having Subject turned on for Animals when the AF method is set to zone or spot in the default mode. Is Subject just ignored? Keep up the great work.
Perfect timing on this video Ron, I keep sharing your videos on Canon Rumors and other forums for users having difficult times.
Hey, thanks for sharing my videos. Much appreciated! I hope at least a few folks are finding them useful.
I am doing the same to people having issues. Very helpful
Yes, I keep linking these videos to r5 groups on Facebook. Lots of people blaming the gear for their own lack of skill or knowledge.
I'm lucky enough to get to shoot with this gentleman next week! Looking forward to it!
Me too. It should be a lot of fun. See you soon.
Thank you so much, your videos are helping me a lot!!
I just tried these settings with the EF 100-400 and 1.4 converter. Locked on and tracked great. Thank you
Great to hear!
Thanks so much for the tips on this camera/lens setup. As far as BBF. I wish the R5 had a larger button for BBF. Especially when it is cold outside, my fingers don't move as fast as when it is warm. Any suggestions on the mechanics on the back button?
Do you find that you still use the case 2 how you set it here with the R3 as well? Any changes you have made since you made this video? For any of the new cameras. Thank you!!
Gary
electrical tape over the evf sensor works for me
Good way to go, but Hopefully canon will provide a formal remedy.
You can keep your thumb on top of the sensor under the viewfinder, so the VF will always on when action happening.
Try gaffer tape. It wont leave residue. I always keep a little bit on the camera bosy for emergencies. Also a strip on my tripod.
A bigger issue for me at first was how the camera would go into sleep mode after a minute. Had to do some googling to discover the Power setting (duh!) and changed it to 3 min. Curious what you set yours to.
I love the tape idea. Somewhere a Canon engineer is kicking himself:)
wow! superb sharp photos of the swallows!!!
Great video!! Is it good for aviation photography?
I’m new and curious when you mentioned the pumping AE-F button to try lock focus. How do you know if it has caught or if you need to keep pumping it?
What about the other settings on the back button focus? Ie servo and case settings. Also sound needs fixing
Great video. Do you think the Ef100-400 Mk11 would have been able to track the swallows in flight like the RF100-500?
Thanks for the video. IDK if you already answered this, but I would assume the negative setting for tracking would reduce the tracking efficiency. In other words, it would prioritize correct focus over tracking. no?
Very informative! Thanks for posting this. I'm using a Canon 7D II with the Canon 100-400 IS II lens and thinking about upgrading. Still on the fence between getting the R5 or going the Sony route with the A9ii and 200-600, but your results clearly show the R5 is competitive with the Sony system. Tree Swallows are my BIF nemesis. More erratic than Barn Swallows and faster than Purple Martins. Well done!
Thanks so much for the comment.
Mike I have the same rig. Did you go ahead and get a Canon R series?
@@fgb3126 Yes I did. Purchased an R5 in late 2021 year and an R7 about six months ago. Use both with the RF 100-500mm. Love the R7's reach for perched birds, but I find the R5's AF more consistent for BIF.
the only thing i can suggest is olympus ee dot sight if the af is that good it will lock on ive used it on sony a7riv 200-600 @600 on hobbies hunting dragonflies . the dot sight give you a wide normal eye view but with a red circle cross one the dot sight is calibrated use a tripod and live view .
Great information Ron! As always, thank you so much for sharing.
My pleasure!
Great video and explanation. I am a beginner birder and your video is easy to follow
My 100-500 is on (back)order, can’t wait for it to get here. This is a very informative video, thanks for the recommendations! I will definitely be trying them out. I’m currently using a 70-200 f2.8 with my R5 but have to crop so much I lose a lot of sharpness, even for birds at my feeder. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks so much for the comment. It is greatly appreciated.
I own an R6. Does the advice to use IS Mode 1 apply for third-party lenses like an adapted Tamron 150-600 G2?
I don't have that lens, so unfortunately I cannot say if it would work for this lens. My experience has been that third-party lenses usually do not behave quite the same way, so the only way to know is to experiment.
I have the R6 and the new 600f11 and the 800f11, but I think the lens to have is the 100-500 which is backordered. Do you think the R6 is just as good for flyers if cropping with the sensor is not a consideration? Trying to decide to keep the R6 or get the R5. Thanks for your thoughts.
I do not have an R6 but I have shot one off and on since it came out and it is a very capable camera. For me, it really comes down to whether you need the 45mp and for me given I do so much bird photography I would not go less now that I can have 45mp and 20fps. That combo is a game changer for my photography. Overall, I do think the R5 AF is a bit better too.
Awesome video’s helped a lot! I own a R5 with 100-500 and EF 400 2.8 had superb autofocus but on latest software the animal tracking is not that great anymore for some reason, do you had/have the same problems on latest firmware?
I was just down in the Everglades last month and was surprised I used the 100-500RF more than I did my 600/4 IS II. It’s a great lens and I’m looking forward to trying to get swallows in flight here at home this summer. I have tried before with my old 1DX2 but it really was just trying to get lucky.
With the EVF I’ve just got used to hitting the shutter halfway as I raise the camera to my eye.
Yep, half press to turn on the EVF but need option to just keep it on for certain scenarios. Good luck with the swallows.
Hi. Have been doing everything except accel/decel tracking all the way to the right. thanks will give it a go. Anyhow the combo R5 and 100-500 is amazing.
Good luck and thanks for the comment.
Fantastic tips on shooting extreme bird in flight Ron, always very interesting to learn from you. I finally got my RF 100-500mm is only to send it back to Canon because one of the glass element inside was broken and I could not get any sharps images at all !!! Waiting for a new one... Just hope it wont take 3 monts to get the new one...
Getting much better image quality with practice with the ef 300mm f/2.8 with is off, but when I look at the focus point (red square) on the picture it's on the eye at the first shot and goes off the bird to finally lose focus after 2 or 3 shots... I am on electronic shutter and on gimbal and tripod.
I have found that the AF indicator often times is a bit behind where the camera has actually focused. It seems there is a delay in the camera placing the AF indicator. I have images from all my shoots with the indicator off the subject and the bird is sharp. Seems to me the system for placing the indicator needs to be refined.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron I agree with you I do have great shot in focus with the Focus all over the picture ! Your doing a great job and I appreciate all your hard work and sharing Thanks again.
There should be a sensor near the eyecup which I presume if covered up with tape would make the camera act as if you're looking through the viewfinder.
Yep, but personally I don't think we should have to put tape on a sensor to get the EVF to stay on if that is what we need to get the images we are after. Seems like a simple menu item would not be difficult to implement.
@@whistlingwingsphotography.I guess if enough people raise it as an issue they could fix it in firmware. I agree it would be handy.
What focus points do you use? Zone AF or ? What is the difference between IS and IBIS system? Thx
Thanks so much for another clear and helpful video with great pictures. You really have become the master of the R5/100-500 combo! Looking forward to trying my R5 and 100-400 on the peregrines next week for a good workout after the motherboard replacement because of the repeated crashes I was having. Catherine d.
Hope it works well. We shall see.
HI, I have found your video very helpful but I have a question for you - is it possible to have one back button programmed for tracking and another with the tracking function off for taking pictures of a sitting bird at a distance when I might want to use the magnifying glass function (not available in tracking) to see if I am correctly focused? Canon people seem unable to help me with this. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.
Great video! Because you have to react so quickly to these small birds, do you ever use Auto ISO, or is your ISO dialed in ahead of time?
I shoot full Manual, so I do not use Auto ISO. I set my ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture to get the exposure I need to get the birds exposed correctly in the light I will be shooting them. If I let the camera's meter change any of the parameters (including ISO) it can mess up the exposure I want on my birds, because the meter is making changes based on the luminosity of the entire scene (unless you set it to center weighted or spot, which don't work well for most of what I do) which may change as I pan across the area the birds are traveling. By shooting full Manual the birds will always be exposed as I intend no matter the luminosity of the background behind them.
Sorry didn't quite get it. Did you end up turning the stabilizer off or leave it on and use mode 1? Thanks. Looked again got it. turn on stabilizer and mode 1. That's what I have been doing because I never have a situation like you where I have swallows in a particular spot. anyway so far. My birding at the moment is wandering around and fast or slow birds can appear randomly. Thanks for your video. Great.
Thanks so much for the comment.
hello, do you think the new Canon RF 600 f11 or 800 f11 would work for EBF photography?
Yes, if you have the light to get to a fast enough shutter speed. When shooting birds like swallows or anything that is super fast or erratic I like to get to 1/4000s with the R5. For me it makes all the difference in getting tack sharp images. The AF on the 800 and 600 f/11 is very good as is the overall image quality. The only limitation is the speed of the lenses.
Great video. I was playing in my rainy back yard with the R5/6 with the 100-500 this rainy weekend and yes those birds are fast! Electronic is a MUST! I also liked your tip to put it to infinity, which I will have to try. As well as moving eye af to the af on button. Has your R5 ever froze on you and took so many seconds to restart?
Only once before the last firmware update. I have two R5s and freezing has not been an issue for me. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I just noticed it a few times after an hour or so, then I turn it off and use the R6. But I’m using it with one LPE6NH battery. Do you think it would do better with the grip?
The grip might help. I have never shot my R5s without a grip.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank u Ron, I have much further testing to do. I’m definitely not trying to use my old LPE6N batteries with burst shooting anymore. Trying to stock up on NH batteries, but that comes at a price.
your gallery is inspiring......excellent
Thanks so much.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I am convinced that swallows are among the most difficult bird species to photograph, which makes it a desired subject. How close are you to the birds in these representative shots? Even at 30-40 feet the span between focus acquisition and pulling the trigger would need to be immediate.
@@bluemarblemark The birds were about 20 feet out from the boat.
@@whistlingwingsphotography WOW! That's some muscle memory talent!
Have you tried setting the metering timer to a longer value? It won’t keep the EVF always on, but it will keep it on longer. I use it to keep the camera ready when waiting for bees to emerge from their burrow, having to keep half pressing is getting tedious very quickly.
Nope. I have not tried that, but I will. Thanks for the comment.
Great tutorials, I really appreciate them. Keep this going on. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. Always appreciated.
Hi Rod, thanks for your reply, I’ve looked at your video again to double check setting etc and notice your lens covers for the RF 100-500 lens, could I ask you where you purchased thieve covers from? It looks to be a great fit even where the lens retracts back into the body.
Hope you can help,
Regards Rich.
I use a product called Mossy Oaks Graphics. Info is here: ua-cam.com/video/iM2I-Le_VYU/v-deo.html thanks for the comment.
Presume the R6 would have most of the function setting you’ve applied to the R5 but be at 20 mp- on CRaw in the R6 I presume an approx 50% mp drop will result in images of 8-10mp... do you think images of small active birds at this mp count, given one might have an additional crop, will be potentially competitive as those you’re getting with the R5? ( not withstanding the obvious mp trade offs, just in terms of image clarity) - appreciate the pointers- as a wildlife safari guide in Africa without access to gear especially in these times and looking to either upgrade Canon or switch ecosystems...in a market saturated with so many options- these pointers and results are very helpful. Tks v m.
I really love the 45mp of res of the R5. I always felt 20mp was a bit low to get max details out of small birds given the inherent need to crop a lot of bird images. But, Can you get nice looking images from the lesser res of the R6, absolutely
any reason to not use these settings for all bif and use on R6?
Thanks for the great video. Waiting for my R5, but have been following your informative videos in preparation to get out in the field. You are very inspirational.
Hey, thanks so much. I really appreciate the comment. Good luck when you do get your R5. There is a learning curve but once you get the feel for the camera I believe you will start making images better than you ever have before. It has changed how I shoot.
IMHO, the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight EE-1 is very useful in BIF especially with small fast bird such as kingfisher.
Great video. I need to find the swallows first. So which is better: IS turned off or IS on mode 1? Did you attach RF 1.4 extender? Any rolling shutter issue? I use ES to shoot flying ducks. Some images have weird looking wings. I think that was rolling shutter effect.
Both IS on set to mode 1 and set to off worked for me. However, I liked the look through the EVF (stabilized) with the IS set to mode 1 best and it did not seem to negatively affect the sharpness of my images. However, and I stressed this in the video, this only works for me if I am panning very quickly. If I am shooting "normal" BIF then I turn IS/IBIS off. I had no rolling shutter issues with the swallows. However, I have seen in my images of kingfishers in flight the "weird" wings you mention. That is indeed rolling shutter, or read delay issues. However, for me it happens only rarely and so I still use ES for the 20 fps when I am shooting very fast action so I maximize my chances of getting the ultimate image.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Awesome. Will try your recommendations when I find a big group of flying Swallows. Thank you.
How does this body do with erratic birds in flight in front of a tree line vs. a blank sky background? The DLSRs always struggled with this. Also, did Canon every release a fix for the viewfinder lag time?
Ron, try this for keeping the evf on. Navigate to wrench menu, power saving, viewfinder off option, select disable. Hope that helps. Keep up the great videos.
I have both my R5s set up with this setting. VF still shuts down a few seconds after I take my eye away. I have not idea. Maybe my cameras are defective?
@@whistlingwingsphotography Close the rear LCD and the evf should stay on. Looks like both the EVF and rear LCD can't be on at the same time.
tried that too, didn't work for me. Looks like Canon needs to address that.
@@akinipeters From what I can tell, the choices available under the Power Savings menu regarding the ViewFinder Off, which are 3 minutes, 5 minutes, or Disable, do absolutely nothing. I have tried them all and made other settings changes and the EVF goes off after approx. 8 seconds from taking my eye away from the viewfinder. It should be simple to do what we are trying to do, so yep, Canon needs to address this.
The only thing this does is ensures that the viewfinder doesn't turn off when you have your eye up to it. If you have it set to 1 min for example it will still turn off after a minute even if you're looking through the viewfinder. I'm guessing they have this option so that you don't accidentally engage the viewfinder with a bag or something and burn through more battery. It doesn't fix the issue where it takes like a second or so for the viewfinder to fire up after you bring the camera to your eye. I hope this is addressed in a future firmware update.
I think I found a solution for the EVF going dark and you need to press the shutter button to refresh it so you don't lose a shot. Go to the MENU, AF, section 1. Enable the "Continuous AF" this will burn battery life but the EVF will remain on all the time. Hope this helps.
Yes, this is an option, but for a lot of my shooting scenarios I pre-focus on a spot and setting to Continuous AF makes that impossible. So, not a solution for me .
Do you think the 100-400 mk ii on the R5 would be fast enough to lock on and track these birds?
Thanks for a great presentation! Could you please elaborate around your choices of Metering methods when photographing birds in different types of situations?
Hey, thanks for the comment. I use evaluative metering and use the reading as a relative indicator to help set exposure. With mirrorless now basically showing you the exposure I pay less attention to the meter reading and more to the historgram in the viewfinder. Also, I shoot full Manual exposure, not Aperture or Shutter priority and I don't use Auto ISO, the meter does not affect my exposure. This is why I mention I use it as a relative gauge and then make any changes I need myself. Hope this is what you were looking for with regards to elaboration. Cheers. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron, excellent description, and actually in line with how I manage it myself!
Hey Ron, two questions. IBIS mode 1 or mode 3, which do you recommend for fast shutter speeds and panning extreme BOF? Is there really a reason to choose one over the other? 2nd question: In the red camera menu, page 3: what did you set your picture style settings to?
I generally turn IS/IBIS off but I used mode 1 in my experiment because it stabilized the viewfinder while panning was where mode 3 will not do that. Thanks
I tried with a 70-200 on an 80D and failed , ended up with one resting on the railing. :P It's winter here in the north still and will have to wait for the barn swallows and tree swallows this spring to test on the R5/1-5 ! Thanks for your tips!
My pleasure and good luck. I think you will be amazed at the shots you can now go after that were almost impossible before.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Well I gave it a shot! Thanks for the tips. I think I took about 1500 shots and started to get the hang of it. Here is a few of my keepers. Thanks again! facebook.com/TheHollingsworthGallery/posts/1106507099855167
@@chrishollingsworth7110 Chris, those are really great. Well done! You are getting the feel for it. Keep at it and the keepers will keep coming and get better and better.
Ron
__________________________________
Ron R Bielefeld
Whistling Wings Photography
Sebastian, FL 32958
Cell: 772-713-1216
www.whistlingwingsphotography.com
I notice that AF method (AF tab 1) was set to Zone. You set back buttons AF-on to "eye AF" and AE lock (*) to "Metering & AF start. Do you then have to press both buttons at the same time to get "eye AF" tracking?? If not what is the sequence? Press AF-on for "eye AF" to over-ride Zone and then press * to start metering and AF?
Here is how I now have my back buttons set up for AF. in your AF1 menu set things up as I have them in the first attached image (IMG_3741). Then, in the Customize Buttons set the Shutter butt. Half-press to Metering Start only (IMG_3742). Also in the Customize Buttons menu set the * button to Metering and AF Start (IMG_3743). Then set your main AF method to Zone using whatever method you have set up for changing your main AF method. For the AF-ON button, again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Eye Detection AF (IMG_3742). For the AF Point Selection Button (the button right of the * button), again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Register/recall shooting func. (IMG_3743). When you are in the Register /recall Shooting func submenu hit the INFO button on the bottom left of the screen to go another menu deeper. In the menu that comes up you will be able to check or uncheck boxes next to several shooting functions (see IMG_3744). Uncheck all of them except AF Method, AF Operation, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. You want those checked (see attached image 3744). Then, while still in the Register/recall Shooting Function menu, select the AF Method and set it to “Spot.” (see IMG_3745) Under AF Operation make sure it is set to ON. Set the Tracking Sensitivity and Accel./Decel. Tracking like I show in the attached image (3744).
Once you are done with all this set up you will have the AF-ON button set to Eye Detect, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection Button set to Spot. So, if you want spot AF all you have to do is press the back AF Point Selection Button and you get just the center AF point to focus with. No squares grabbing some other area of the frame. Of course, you can change the AF method that the * button initiates just by choosing a different main AF Method such as expanded horizontal or vertical zone, single AF point, single AF point with surround points, etc. Give this set up a try. I think you will like it.
You can find the images I reference via this link: ronaldbielefeld.smugmug.com/R5-menu-settings-for-AF-button-set-up/
Cheers,
Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks a lot.. Will give it a try..
Can I set up AF-On button as metering & AF start (with Zone as main AF) and * button set to Eye Detect? This reverses the role of the two buttons.
One more point, in the Register /recall Shooting Function sub-menu, I have AF Method, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. But I cannot find AF Operation. Is there somewhere else in the menu that I need to set for this to show up in this sub-menu?
After a lot of screwing around, I finally set AF Point Selection Button to Spot as per your image 3744. Thanks..
Thanks Ron, great video. Speaking of video, how about in video mode, can’t seem to get an equivalent back focus going, different options and settings. Also, when programing the buttons there is another level of settings accessed by the info button which does not show up in video mode. What’s your best settings for following and locking focus on moving birds in video mode?
Thank You !
Always great thanks.
Thanks Ron, great video! Unbelievable images 👍
Thanks so much. It was great shooting with you JL.
Very nice picture's and good information.. Have a question. What do you think of the AF speed of the RF 100-500 compared to the Canon 500mm Version 1. Is the RF 100-500 quicker, more consistent?
Yes, it is quicker and better overall. Also the IS/IBIS is really good. Thanks for the comment
Very useful information, looking forward to testing it. 👍 Thanks Ron
Thank you!
As a heads up to anyone who uses the Eye AF, you actually do want it set in the menu, opposed to only on the secondary button. When it is set in the menu as the "Main" method, it enables the white bracket pre-AF overlay. These are very helpful in picking up and confirming what the camera is set to track when you engage the AF. You can definitely use it the way Ron has it set and probably will be fine, but you lose the ability to know what its going to track (when your subject is recognized) and you lose the ability to choose left or right subjects using the arrows overlay and and the joystick.
Good point, Mike. Yes, if you are shooting something other than a single subject like the swallows, where there is only one subject to worry about at a time, you can set Eye AF as your main AF method as well. However, if you have your back button AF set up like I do with the AF-ON button defaulting to Eye AF , the AEL button set to initiate the AF method I have chose as my "Main" method, and my AF Point Selection button set to a registered AF method of 'Spot", if you also set your "Main" AF method to Eye AF you will have two back buttons that do principally the same thing; Eye AF. So you lose one AF method being at your thumb tip ready at a moments notice. In the end, it is what you need more for the shooting scenario you are in that dictates what set up you go with. Cheers.
Very helpful, thanks for this video.
My pleasure
Great info. Would like to pixel-peep on a 45MP image RAW vs CRAW.
There are at least a few videos out there that have compared RAW to CRAW and they have found almost no perceivable difference. I am not sure how Canon worked it, but when I peeped in real close and manipulated the shadows and the highlights I saw no difference in the images. By far, this new Canon sensor is the best I have ever used when it comes to the malleability of the images it produces.
Great video, vital information you’ve given us all, thank you. However what aperture, iso and shutter speeds are you getting to achieve both those wings body and eye sharp along with the insects! Unbelievable brilliant!
Rich
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. You need good enough light to shoot 1/4000s to 1/8000s. I shot mostly 1/5000s for the swallows. My ISO was around 1600 and I was at 500mm, so f/7.1. That is wide open for the 100-500RF. Cheers.
Thanks for your video. Do you get rolling shutter issues with the swallows?
No rolling shutter issues that I could detect. The background was water so no vertical items to be bent by RS and I have never seen RS issues in my subjects with the R5 except with wingtips of belted kingfishers. If the wing tip is moving very fast through the frame I do see some RS issues then, but not often enough to stop me from shooting ES. Cheers.
Thank you for the video
My pleasure.
I tried your settings and technique - seemed to work ok I need more birds like you had - had a couple black phoebes but I did catch some with the insects - need more practice - what exact settings did you use f/stop and shutter speed
f/7.1 and shutter was generally 1/5000s
thanks that was much faster than I thought - will try it
Great photos, I did not manage to do this with my 7dII a few years ago. I’ll try now with R6, just have to wait for swallows. what about rolling shutter problem with electronic shutter? what about aiming - did you crop a lot? it’s very hard to fill the frame with 500 mm and track swallow.
No the images are not large crops. It is difficult, but doable. No rolling shutter issues that have mattered to my images so far with the R5. Not sure what you mean about aiming. With practice I have come to just pick the bird start swinging the camera and bring it to my eye and the bird is there. Practice practice practice over 30 years. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thanks. Keep making those youtube videos, they’re very professional. I see a lot of experience.
Thank you so much for the compliment.
I have a R6 and was taking pictures of bats in the evening as I was waiting for a owl.. Super fun camera!
Very cool!
Good info here, Ron. Thanks. I have a custom menu tab set up for AF that includes tracking sensitivity and accel/decel tracking. Adjusting them directly overrides the configuration of the case setting and having them on a custom menu makes them much easier to access. One setting I haven't really played with is the 'Switching tracked subjects'. Curious to know if you have experimented with this?
I would also like to know what Ron's "switching tracked subjects" settings are. Great vid, VERY informative.
I have and the setting does make a difference to the point where I have mine now set to "Initial Priority." I like to stay on the subject I have acquired almost always and if I want to switch I find that if I put the new bird in the center of the frame and pump the AF-ON button it still switches to that new centered subject. This tactic has worked well for me so far.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Oh, that's interesting. I was confused at first by the 'Initial Priority' description. These labels must have been changed since the first firmware. They were originally 'Disable', 'Enable (Slow) and 'Enable'. The new labels make more sense. I'll have to play around with this one. It reads a lot like tracking sensitivity to me but there must be a subtle difference. Thanks again!
@@SteveSSBB I am still figuring all this stuff out myself. That is one setting I have not messed with much, so my use of it and settings might change as I get into more different shooting scenarios. Take care.
nice shots of the swallows, do you use 2 BBF buttons on the back? or only one for eye AF? thank you for your videos,
I have my AF-ON button set to Eye AF, I have my AEL button set to AF Method (i.e., the AEL button initiates whatever AF Method I have selected with my control ring), and I have the AF Point Selection button to the right of the AEL button set to a registered AF Method which for me is Spot AF. So by pushing both the AEL and AF Point Selection button at the same time with my thumb I instantly get Spot AF. Thus, I have three AF Methods available at the tip of my thumb and in an instant. I love it.
@@whistlingwingsphotography very nice and thanks
@@whistlingwingsphotography Camera body was supposed to be here today and I’m renting a couple lenses to try on the weekend. Exciting
@@renesch438 Absolutely!
Thank that was a really impressive video. I have the same gear. Just got to develop the ability. Thanks for the inspiration
Hey, thanks you for the inspiration you give me with your comments. It is much appreciated.
Thanks great video. What are your thoughts on upgrading from the 100-400 mark II to the 100-500? Is it worth doing?
It really depends on the type of photography you do most. If you do a lot of hand held static bird photography then I would upgrade as soon as possible because the mode 1 IS/IBIS is just so so good. Much better than when using the 100-400. Otherwise, it is kind of a draw unless you really need the extra 100mm. I will say that the IQ of the 100-500 with the 1.4x TC really is excellent as well, so there is that to add to the equation.
Wondering if it will work on the r6 with the 100/400 mark 2
The only way to know is to give it a go.
Hi Ron, another great video. Thank you so much for all your tips. I am wondering what the camo cover is you have on your lens? It looks like a really good fit. Could you let me know where you got it and what it is please?
It is DIY using a material call Mossy Oaks Graphics. This video has details: ua-cam.com/video/iM2I-Le_VYU/v-deo.html
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thank you! Love your videos
@@CarolineOrdHume Thank you for watching
To keep the view finder on, stick some tape over the little sensor so it thinks your eyes up to the camera :)
Or orange menu , tab 2 "Power Saving" "Viewfinder off" Disable.
Great video. I am using the 100-400 on my R5 and a 1.4 extender, would u still recommend IS on no. 1 for this lens and this scenario.
I have not tried the 100-400 (I assume you are referring to the Mk. II version) Mk. II for swallows, I def. would give it a go with IS on mode 1 and see what happens. Like I have told some others, you can always turn it off if it is not working out.
I've always used mode 1 on my 100- 400 mkii without noticing any problems with birds in flight. For what it's worth.
Another great video. Has your overall camera and esp. autofocus set up remained as you described 6 months ago?
For the most part yes it has stayed the same. I have started to change the Tracking Sensitivity and Accelerate/decel settings based on shooting scenario and I only use the IS for static subjects now with the exception of really fast moving BIF such as the swallows.
Also, I am using animal eye detect with tracking 95% of the time no matter the scenario. It is that good for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks. What do you have set for the Initial Servo AF Point (AF menu 5, first line)? Thanks for sharing!! And WOW... FANTASTIC images.
@@steveking6204 The second option. Cheers, Ron
Killer stuff my friend
Hey, Harry. Thanks so much.
First I want to say that I have enjoyed your videos. I have a question about eye detection AF. I use BBF with single spot focus and another button for animal eye detection Af. I am having a problem with the animal eye detection jumping from the eye to branches etc. This has happen when focusing on the eye of an eagle sitting on the nest not moving and the animal eye detect would jump to something else in the nest that is closer in the frame. Is there anyway to prevent this from happening. Thank you for any advice you can give.
In the AF4 menu I suggest setting the Switching Tracked Subjects to "0" which the the "Intitail Priority" setting. It helps, but there is always going to some situations where it will think something other than an eye is an eye.
👍👍great pictures as well
Put some tape on the viewfinder sensor so the camera thinks your face is against it. This will keep the electronic view finder on
Hey Ron, do you use any third party NR & sharpening apps for your image processing, or do you use (or not use) just in-camera and/or LR NR & sharpening in post? Thanks, Rick.
If I need NR and Sharpening I am now using Topaz AI Sharpen and AI DeNoise. They really are great. I generally use a bit of sharpening on all my images as they are RAW and I don't employ any sharpening in LR or PS before using Topaz as a plug-in to PS. I have not had to use much NR with the Canon R5 and I do not use in-camera NR. I tend to turn everything off on the camera I can to keep the amount of processing the camera has to do to a minimum. There is just so much "band-width" available and I want the camera concentrating on fps and AF speed and accuracy.
To what Ron said I would add Topaz Gigapixel...it's especially handy for those shots where you have to do huge crops. Topaz makes great products.
Does C RAW still allow Canon DPP to apply lens correction in post ?
On my 5D4, using any RAW mode other than the full highest quality RAW, the lens correction is disabled in DPP.
I discovered a few years ago that DPP has the and sharpest lens correction for Canon lenses and now is an integral part of my work flow.
Good question. I am not sure. I will test this ASAP.
Ron, will theses settings also apply for larger slower BIF, or do you recommend a second set of settings for those. Thanks for the tips.
I would not use IS in mode 1 for slow BIF. I recommend turning off IS if you are shooting slower BIF and strive for good shutter speed to help with getting tack sharp images.
If you were to give the 100-500 one hundred points for BIF, how would you score the 800mm f/11 ?
I would give it a 7 due to the slow aperture. BIF requires fast shutter speeds in general and unless you have great light the 800 is just too slow. The AF and sharpness are great and that bouys my rating up.
Thanks, great reach for daytime wildlife and for clear skies BIF.
Just found your channel. Thanks for the timely video. I am a hobbyist and recently upgraded to R5. Decided to try bird photography ( God help me!) but have to really learn some skills! Retiring from day job end of the month and plan to really spend quality time with my camera!
Welcome aboard!
Thank you for the video. I have always been reluctant to use electronic shutter for fast moving subjects (particularly with song birds) because of the rolling shutter artefacts. Have you had any issues with your swallows? I always get this weird edges around wings when they flap really fast
I have not had any issues with the swallows. Some issues with belted kingfisher but not enough to keep me from using the ES
Thanks for the advice.
Any time!
Great video Ron, thanks. With BBF, do you tap the button and release or hold down throughout the burst?
Once focus is achieved you hold the button down. Cheers
@@whistlingwingsphotography thanks Ron
What about lens aberration correction , do you have it on?
No, I do not. I tend to have the best luck doing any such corrections in post processing. My general philosophy is I have the camera do only what I absolutely need it to do, thus freeing up processor "bandwidth" to do the most important things to getting good imagery. This may be a flawed philosophy, but it works for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography that seems logical , thanks
Another quick question, are you looking at the A1? That 30FPS really does seem to be awesome.
I just can’t see spending almost 7k for one when the R5 will do 95% of what the a1 appears to do for basically half the price. I have two R5s. I also like Canon’s durability.
@@whistlingwingsphotography the A1 will not shoot 30fps on a moving subject - it slows down to less than 20 fps. 30 fps is only static subjects and only with the G lenses. The tracking on the R5 actually works better than the A1.
Just as a data point on durability I shot Sony for several years (A6000, A6300, RX100IV, A7II, A7RII, two A7RIII's, A7RIV, A9II) and never had a single issue through at least 500,000+ combined exposures. I recently switched to a Canon R5 and it began failing on me during professional shoots a few weeks ago, about four months into ownership and maybe 20,000 exposures. It started constantly locking up with "Error 20" when shooting EFCS or mechanical shutter, requiring a reboot. Fortunately Canon replaced the shutter for free. I picked up a second R5 while it was being repaired since I do love the camera/system and I now have one as a backup.
Hopefully it was a one off issue but I thought it was interesting that it ended up being the first major problem I've had with a camera body after a flawless experience with nine Sony's and one Olympus.
What are your thoughts on the RF 2x TC with the 100-500? Have you tried it? Do you recommend it ?
I have tried it and it works as you would expect. You lose some detail in images, but the AF works really well. I just don't use it because it make the lens too slow for most of what I do. If you can handle the huge f you get then it might fit your shooting.
It's been a year and I've "successfully" avoided buying either the R6 or R5, and now after reading some of the reviews on B&H I'm kinda glad I did. I see you use an R5. Have you had quality control issues? Do you still find the lay out OK?
can I use back buttons to switch from servo bird tracking AF to ordinary single shot center point AF ?
You can have one back button set to Metering and AF Start (for example the AF-ON button) and another back button say the AF Point Selection button set to toggle between Servo and One Shot. So if you have your main AF method set to single point and have it placed in the center and have Servo AF set in the main AF menu, when you press the AF-ON button you get servo tracking with the center point. Quickly hit the AF Point Selection button and now you have one center point in One Shot mode. Hope this helps.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Excellent, thanks !
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks. I could not get it to switch all the functions that I wish to change between BIF and a "normal" exposure. I have elected to set up BIF as a custom function. Switching is a little slower than I hoped but it works. Thanks.
Where did you get the camo cover for your lens?
It is called Mossy Oaks Graphics and it is a sheet material you apply yourself. Here is a video with more info: ua-cam.com/video/iM2I-Le_VYU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video, Ron! I have stopped using BBF for BIF and use Art Morris focus method instead on my R5 with good (better?) results. Any comments on that?
I don't know Art Morris' focus method. I personally have great success with BBF and can set up 3 different AF methods on the 3 Back buttons and have them ready at all times at my thumb tip. I have no reason to change, but other should always experiment to find what works best for them.
What exactly is Art Morris' focus method?
Thanks.
@@bd-nc7lc This is some of the main points from AMs Canon R5 userguide. I Can send the whole guide to you if want that: Limit AF methods. This one is so important that you will want to add it to page 1 of your My Menu. Setting this correctly is step one in eliminating the insanity of using multiple back buttons for bird photography, especially the photography of birds in flight.
Check the box for Face Detection plus Tracking. The next one, Spot AF, is optional. If you shoot birds in cluttered situations, you may want to check this box. If not, un-check it as I do. Next is 1-point AF. This box cannot be un-checked and often comes in handy. The next two boxes are Expand AF method (five points) and Expand AF method: Around (nine points). Un-check those two. Then check the box for Zone AF. Now un-check the last two boxes: Large Zone AF: Vertical and Large Zone AF: Horizontal.
You must remember to scroll to OK and hit the Set button or your changes will not stick.... The AF Method Switching Solution
By now, you are probably asking, So what is the magic solution? Just how do we switch the AF Method quickly and easily? Here’s how you do it:
Go to the Custom Functions 3 (Orange) Menu. The third item down is Customize Buttons. Hit the Set button and scroll down in the left column (camera as opposed to video) until you get to Set Button. Then hit the Set button again. A screen with a multitude of options will pop up. Fortunately, the item we want is the third one in the top row: Direct AF method selection. Scroll to that and hit Set.
Now you are ready for the magic. With the camera turned on (and a lens attached with the M/AF switch set to AF), press the Set button until you see the large square that indicate Zone AF. Press the set button again and you will be in Face Detection + Tracking AF. Press it again, and you will be in 1-point AF. Pressing it once more toggles you back to Zone AF..... With all of the cameras I have ever used, this is the neatest, fastest, easiest, most convenient way to toggle through the AF Methods or Modes. For those currently using the multiple back button focus technique who feel that Zone acquires focus on birds in flight faster than Face Detection + Tracking AF, they can simply start with Large Zone AF, acquire focus, and then hit the Set button once to instantly switch to Face Detection + Tracking AF. Remember that the more AF Methods you have enabled (by checking the box under Limit AF methods), the longer it will take you to scroll through the various AF Methods. Three (or four if you go with Spot AF) will work just fine. With Limit AF methods on your My Menu page, you can easily add a Focus Method when you need one for a specific situation. And then remove it. Kind Regard Eyvind Rugland
@@eyvindru Thanks so much for providing this. I've never been comfortable strictly using BBF. A lot to consider here. The whole guide might be useful if it's no trouble. Thanks again.
@@bd-nc7lc If you give me your emailadress I can send you the whole guide