I am humbled by your skills. I needed to fall before I could learn to sew. I blew up a vintage machine and learned to fix it. I blew up a chip driven machine, I can't fix it, yet. Thank you kindly.
If I might suggest a video, I'd love to see a tour of your new workspace. I'm particularly interested in how you've organized the space for workflow and enjoyment. It seems that your new workspace is much less crowed than your previous space, but I'm also sure that given the amount of equipment. I do enjoy your videos regardless of topic.
Thanks Matthew! Actually, a shop tour video is something I'm planning to do. At the moment, camera angles and shoving stuff out of the way disguise the fact that the shop is an utter disaster right now. I'm hoping this summer to have it in presentable shape. Stay tuned, and thanks for being part of the channel!
If you happen to sew the wrong end of a zipper again, just start the slider on the "wrong" way then reach inside with two dental pick or similar tools and separate the coils from each other. The slider will slide right on. I do this all the time when replacing sliders.
Hi Ken, I'm not sure if that doesn't work with continuous coil, or if I've just been unable to pull it off, but I have struggled and struggled to get a zipper slider to go on backwards, and I have never even come close to success. Like, I can't even get the coil on one side inserted into the slider. I nearly always use #8 continuous coil. I think in a Sailrite video from WAY back, Eric Grant mentioned that Matt Grant was able to get zipper sliders on backwards, but her (Eric) couldn't do it. So maybe there's a skill element I'm missing. If you have any advice, I'm all ears!
Great video on dust covers lots of great ideas. Last weekend I made a dust cover for my commercial meat slicer and the dust cover is so big and the slicer is so odd shaped, supports are needed to hold it's shape. I guess things that are simple in looks can be complex in practice. Thanks for the great content!
would you say the walking foot is a benefit over a normal straight stitch machine for the multilayered sections ? (Overall would you say the walking foot machine would be a great benefit for sewing thicker materials cordura/coated polyester,thanks in advance :)
Hi Alexander, I very much favor walking-foot sewing machines, and use them for the vast majority of my sewing. Some might think I rely on them too much, but in my opinion, for making bags or other structures involving multiple layers of heavier fabrics, a walking-foot machine is indispensable. I have both portable walking-foot machines (Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 and two Thompson machines) and industrial (Consew 206, Consew 225 and Yamata 335 cylinder arm). In terms of the ability to feed thicker materials/seam transitions, etc., I find no difference in performance between the portable machines and industrial machines. I have a long video in which I discuss what sewing machine one should choose for this kind of thing that I posted within the last 6 months or so, I recommend you check that one out for more info. Thanks for the question, and good luck with your projects!
long time lurk-watcher- this project put me on the subscribe list. Thanks and Im interested in seeing the feedback comments from the customer! Love the kydex scissor keeper as well- how about a close up of that and your apron for a future idea- lets see what the seamster keeps in his go-bag
Thanks for subscribing! I have a video on the first version of the kydex scissor sheath among my videos, but I haven't followed up with the current version (which is much improved). I'll add it to the list! Thanks for watching!
Honestly, I do believe you could design and sew a custom cover for the Statue of Liberty, given only a handmade sketch, or photo [with Bobbin's supervision, of course ;-))].
Please tell where you got the table to hold sewing machine? I've not seen that for purchase. My cabinet either needs repaired at every joint or used for firewood. It is old wooden one that came w 60's machine. Next question, my father always maintained the machine. Foolishly, I didn't learn from him nor was there a manual for regular cleaning locations. Can you offer where to go for info or can you give some tips?
Hi! This table is from Sailrite. It is designed to work with their Ultrafeed machines, but the footprint of that machine is the same of many vintage Singer (and presumably other) sewing machines. I'm no expert when it comes to sewing machine maintenance and repair, but in general, any place lint or other detritus is collecting should be cleaned. Most sources recommend NOT using pressurized air to blow away dust, etc., as it can force stuff deeper into the machine (I think this is a greater problem for more modern machines). In general, any place where moving metal parts touch each other probably gets a drop of oil. There are many vintage sewing machine manuals available online. Singer has manuals for free download for all of their machines. The manual is your best guide to how, and how often, to oil your machine, but if you can't find it, even oiling it wrong will probably help more than it will hurt. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Jason, I've got an odd question: What type of table are you using with your Thompson? It appears the machine head is sitting directly in the table without any type of base tray on the sewing machine. Thanks.
Hi Jack, This table is Sailrite's "industrial style table for Ultrafeeds." It's perfect for Ultrafeed-style machines, and will work with many vintage household machines as well (I use it for my Singer 201s fairly often). Thanks for watching!
Hi Max, I generally use bonded nylon thread in size V69 for everything I do. V69 (also known as T70) is generally considered the thickest thread one should use in a domestic (home) sewing machine, and it also works great in my industrial machines. I haven't used the 4452, but I suspect it will work well with V69. I hope that help, thanks for watching!
It's a Yamata FY335. I've only had it for a short time, a review video will be forthcoming when I've gotten to know it a little better. So far I really like it!
I don't see why you couldn't have built the entire thing first--- and then made the cut at the end, to ensure that it would be in the right place. If you had to do a large production of these, I think that's how I would do it; cut out some of that measuring. cheers.. Also, how does your singer run so fast? I have a singer 101 (without reverse) and no matter how well I clean it or lube it, it just seems to run fairly slow compared to yours. (granted, I haven't done a full tear down on it.
Hi! Regarding the cutout, your thinking is valid, but in practice there are a couple of reasons why I find it beneficial to do the cutout before sewing everything together. 1) It is easier to precisely mark and cut on a flat piece of fabric (this would be especially true if the final result were a smaller cover or whatever).Cutting on the finished cover also presents the possibility of accidentally cutting through another part of the cover that got in the way. 2) If I cut the cutout after the cover is sewn, the bottom hem would already be sewn (again, easiest to do when the fabric is one flat piece). When I cut through the hem, there would be no backstitches to ensure against the topstitch coming undone (or I would have to go back and add them). 3) Binding is also easier to do when the fabric is flat, and the ends of the binding can be folded into the bottom hem more easily with the cutout done first. If I were to make a large production run of these, I would probably set up a cutting jig so I could pull lengths of fabric, cut them to length and width and cut the rear cutout all at once, with consistent results. You're correct, taking the time to measure every one would be very time consuming! Regarding my Singer 201, I bought this one used maybe a year or two ago(?) and it has run this way since I bought it. It is also consistent with my other 201s. I'm not familiar with your 101, so I don't know if it is just a slower, less powerful motor, or if there could be some other issue. My guess is if a machine is running slowly, and there are no obvious mechanical problems, then the problem is likely an electrical problem with the motor or pedal. Unfortunately, I don't know much more about it. Check out the channel Andy Tube, he might have some helpful information. Thanks for watching!
It did not take me long to blatantly copy your idea. I have a small washing machine after my mother. I already have one here, so it will be placed in the basement of my summer place. Which is at times extremely full of dust, as I also use it as a workshop. And I have not made a cover because there are some hoses and such hanging on the back of it, making the need for an oversized cover. Not very neat. Well, up until now. The new cover is done. You can see it in my Instagram: instagram.com/p/CNSA2ZwBJSI/? Thank you Jason!
Hi, If you have a machine you don't need, and don't know anyone who wants it, PLEASE donate it to any thrift store or other charity in your area. Please don't throw it away! Thanks for asking!
Cool project, I love one-off problem solving projects like that.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing
I am humbled by your skills. I needed to fall before I could learn to sew. I blew up a vintage machine and learned to fix it. I blew up a chip driven machine, I can't fix it, yet. Thank you kindly.
Very relaxing watching someone else work lol. Good job thanks.
If I might suggest a video, I'd love to see a tour of your new workspace. I'm particularly interested in how you've organized the space for workflow and enjoyment. It seems that your new workspace is much less crowed than your previous space, but I'm also sure that given the amount of equipment. I do enjoy your videos regardless of topic.
Thanks Matthew!
Actually, a shop tour video is something I'm planning to do. At the moment, camera angles and shoving stuff out of the way disguise the fact that the shop is an utter disaster right now. I'm hoping this summer to have it in presentable shape. Stay tuned, and thanks for being part of the channel!
Thank you, Jason. Have been watching and learning from you for years. Thank you for taking us along.
If you happen to sew the wrong end of a zipper again, just start the slider on the "wrong" way then reach inside with two dental pick or similar tools and separate the coils from each other. The slider will slide right on. I do this all the time when replacing sliders.
Hi Ken,
I'm not sure if that doesn't work with continuous coil, or if I've just been unable to pull it off, but I have struggled and struggled to get a zipper slider to go on backwards, and I have never even come close to success. Like, I can't even get the coil on one side inserted into the slider. I nearly always use #8 continuous coil. I think in a Sailrite video from WAY back, Eric Grant mentioned that Matt Grant was able to get zipper sliders on backwards, but her (Eric) couldn't do it. So maybe there's a skill element I'm missing. If you have any advice, I'm all ears!
Wish I could say I've never forgotten to install the zipper pull before I sewed the stop panel. But, I can not. 😁
Nice job Jason! As always!
I wish I could say I have learned my lesson and won't make that mistake again lol! Thanks, David!
Thanks for the insight Jason. Look forward to seeing more videos in the future.
Smart 👍. Love your workspace
Its fascinating to see your problem solving process. I actually learned a few things to put in my tool box. thanks Jason
I'd like to see you make a shop apron.
That's been on my horizon for years, I really need to move that up on my to-do list!
Thanks for watching!
Great video on dust covers lots of great ideas. Last weekend I made a dust cover for my commercial meat slicer and the dust cover is so big and the slicer is so odd shaped, supports are needed to hold it's shape. I guess things that are simple in looks can be complex in practice. Thanks for the great content!
Thanks, Steve! A meat-slicer cover sounds like it could be a fun challenge!
would you say the walking foot is a benefit over a normal straight stitch machine for the multilayered sections ? (Overall would you say the walking foot machine would be a great benefit for sewing thicker materials cordura/coated polyester,thanks in advance :)
Hi Alexander,
I very much favor walking-foot sewing machines, and use them for the vast majority of my sewing. Some might think I rely on them too much, but in my opinion, for making bags or other structures involving multiple layers of heavier fabrics, a walking-foot machine is indispensable.
I have both portable walking-foot machines (Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 and two Thompson machines) and industrial (Consew 206, Consew 225 and Yamata 335 cylinder arm). In terms of the ability to feed thicker materials/seam transitions, etc., I find no difference in performance between the portable machines and industrial machines.
I have a long video in which I discuss what sewing machine one should choose for this kind of thing that I posted within the last 6 months or so, I recommend you check that one out for more info.
Thanks for the question, and good luck with your projects!
long time lurk-watcher- this project put me on the subscribe list. Thanks and Im interested in seeing the feedback comments from the customer! Love the kydex scissor keeper as well- how about a close up of that and your apron for a future idea- lets see what the seamster keeps in his go-bag
Thanks for subscribing!
I have a video on the first version of the kydex scissor sheath among my videos, but I haven't followed up with the current version (which is much improved). I'll add it to the list!
Thanks for watching!
Honestly, I do believe you could design and sew a custom cover for the Statue of Liberty, given only a handmade sketch, or photo [with Bobbin's supervision, of course ;-))].
Thank you!
Hi Jason, Thanks for the video. Did you use regular size thread or a thicker size; it really stood out.
I used V69 thread (which is what I use 99% of the time).
Thanks for watching!
Please tell where you got the table to hold sewing machine? I've not seen that for purchase. My cabinet either needs repaired at every joint or used for firewood. It is old wooden one that came w 60's machine. Next question, my father always maintained the machine. Foolishly, I didn't learn from him nor was there a manual for regular cleaning locations. Can you offer where to go for info or can you give some tips?
Hi!
This table is from Sailrite. It is designed to work with their Ultrafeed machines, but the footprint of that machine is the same of many vintage Singer (and presumably other) sewing machines.
I'm no expert when it comes to sewing machine maintenance and repair, but in general, any place lint or other detritus is collecting should be cleaned. Most sources recommend NOT using pressurized air to blow away dust, etc., as it can force stuff deeper into the machine (I think this is a greater problem for more modern machines). In general, any place where moving metal parts touch each other probably gets a drop of oil.
There are many vintage sewing machine manuals available online. Singer has manuals for free download for all of their machines. The manual is your best guide to how, and how often, to oil your machine, but if you can't find it, even oiling it wrong will probably help more than it will hurt.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Jason, I've got an odd question: What type of table are you using with your Thompson? It appears the machine head is sitting directly in the table without any type of base tray on the sewing machine. Thanks.
Hi Jack,
This table is Sailrite's "industrial style table for Ultrafeeds." It's perfect for Ultrafeed-style machines, and will work with many vintage household machines as well (I use it for my Singer 201s fairly often).
Thanks for watching!
What's the best thread to use for the perfect stitch look on a home machine like singer 4452?
Hi Max,
I generally use bonded nylon thread in size V69 for everything I do. V69 (also known as T70) is generally considered the thickest thread one should use in a domestic (home) sewing machine, and it also works great in my industrial machines. I haven't used the 4452, but I suspect it will work well with V69.
I hope that help, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you so much. I will look that up
@@thejasonofalltrades do you use the same thread in the bobbin as well?
What is the machine that you used to apply the binding to the cutout in the back panel?
It's a Yamata FY335. I've only had it for a short time, a review video will be forthcoming when I've gotten to know it a little better. So far I really like it!
I don't see why you couldn't have built the entire thing first--- and then made the cut at the end, to ensure that it would be in the right place. If you had to do a large production of these, I think that's how I would do it; cut out some of that measuring. cheers.. Also, how does your singer run so fast? I have a singer 101 (without reverse) and no matter how well I clean it or lube it, it just seems to run fairly slow compared to yours. (granted, I haven't done a full tear down on it.
Hi!
Regarding the cutout, your thinking is valid, but in practice there are a couple of reasons why I find it beneficial to do the cutout before sewing everything together.
1) It is easier to precisely mark and cut on a flat piece of fabric (this would be especially true if the final result were a smaller cover or whatever).Cutting on the finished cover also presents the possibility of accidentally cutting through another part of the cover that got in the way.
2) If I cut the cutout after the cover is sewn, the bottom hem would already be sewn (again, easiest to do when the fabric is one flat piece). When I cut through the hem, there would be no backstitches to ensure against the topstitch coming undone (or I would have to go back and add them).
3) Binding is also easier to do when the fabric is flat, and the ends of the binding can be folded into the bottom hem more easily with the cutout done first.
If I were to make a large production run of these, I would probably set up a cutting jig so I could pull lengths of fabric, cut them to length and width and cut the rear cutout all at once, with consistent results. You're correct, taking the time to measure every one would be very time consuming!
Regarding my Singer 201, I bought this one used maybe a year or two ago(?) and it has run this way since I bought it. It is also consistent with my other 201s. I'm not familiar with your 101, so I don't know if it is just a slower, less powerful motor, or if there could be some other issue. My guess is if a machine is running slowly, and there are no obvious mechanical problems, then the problem is likely an electrical problem with the motor or pedal. Unfortunately, I don't know much more about it.
Check out the channel Andy Tube, he might have some helpful information.
Thanks for watching!
It did not take me long to blatantly copy your idea.
I have a small washing machine after my mother. I already have one here, so it will be placed in the basement of my summer place. Which is at times extremely full of dust, as I also use it as a workshop. And I have not made a cover because there are some hoses and such hanging on the back of it, making the need for an oversized cover. Not very neat. Well, up until now. The new cover is done.
You can see it in my Instagram: instagram.com/p/CNSA2ZwBJSI/?
Thank you Jason!
That looks great! Really well done!
Hi I found a sewing machine and would like to know if you want if not going in trash
Just send it to his address..
Hi,
If you have a machine you don't need, and don't know anyone who wants it, PLEASE donate it to any thrift store or other charity in your area. Please don't throw it away!
Thanks for asking!
What are the dimensions? Just kidding😁
HAHAHA! Thanks for the laugh!
@@thejasonofalltrades But really. I need something like that but the size is different, so what you're doing won't work for me. 🤷♂️