How to replace belt, tensioner, pulleys and alternator - Mercedes A-class/B-class (w169/w245) CDI
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2023
- WARNING: I LOWERED THE ENGINE BECAUSE I HAD TO DO REPLACE OTHER PARTS ON THE ENGINE, BUT I CAME TO KNOW THAT IT'S POSSIBLE TO REMOVE TENSIONER AND ALTERNATOR WITHOUT LOWERING THE ENGINE. THERE'S LITTLE ROOM BUT IT'S POSSIBLE. SO IT'S YOUR DECISION HOW TO PROCEED.
With my tutorial you can easily spare 700-800 dollars. Mercedes requires about 1000 dollars for the job.
If you find the video useful, please consider supporting me with only 1% of what you spared with this job at a coffee price: ko-fi.com/ticktimeyt. Thank you :-)
This is the diesel CDI OM640 engine. I used INA tensioner, Contitech belt. Please subscribe :-)
WARNING: I'm not responsible for any damage. This is a complex procedure and has to be done by qualified technicians. If you aren't sure about it, don't do it.
Before working under the vehicle support it safely with jackstands and ramps. - Навчання та стиль
Ну хоть кто-то умеет хорошо снимать! Спасибо!
Well, at least someone knows how to take good pictures! Thanks!
Nice job my friend💪
Thank you for information,i see how i change alternator because is damaged and i need only change
for the alternator no need to lower the engine. good luck
Thanx for the video. ❤
Nice Job
very nice very good job
Thank you
Nice, thanks a lot ✌
Good luck
thanks, now to the job! 😂❤
i had changed the alternator pulley 3 years ago. my belt snapped and now changed tensioner and the belt is now running aside on the alternator. Is it possible that i got the wrong pulley for the alternator 3 years ago. are there pulleys with different offset?
Wonderfull the a lot
Thanks for the video! finally I get to see that demonstrated. Quick question. Did you drain the AC Freeon and if I only want to replace the compressor do I still need to drop the engine? ThankS!
Hi, no need to drain freeon. To replace che compressor I think you should be able without dropping the engine. Good luck
@@ticktime6569compressor is much more easier you don't need to drop the engine at all, just remove your belt and screw the compressor out.
1 : How to make a hell alot of work extra that you don't have to, watch this
Very nice video.
I have a mercedes 180d w169 and I hear a noise that goes up and down with acceleration. I guess it's one of those pulleys or even the tensioner.
The car is from 2010 and has 116,000 km.
Do you think it was worth taking the opportunity to change, the tensioner with the pulleys, the water pump and alternator pulley?
thanks and greetings from Portugal
Hi, I'd replace pulleys and tensioner and if you want alternator pulley (it's about 20 euro). Water pump in my opinion will last, but when you are there check the pulley for play and noise by hand. Good luck
@@ticktime6569 thanks!
Bonjour merci pour le partage de votre savoir faire, je voulais vous demander est se qu'il serrait possible d'avoir la même vidéo en français. si cela vous ai possible je sais que cela prend du temps. encore merci !
Salut, si je trouve le temps, j'essaierai. Salut
Pour changer l'embrayage il faut deposer le berceau ou pas?merci
Très bon travai.
Salut, malheureusement je ne suis pas sûr, mais certains ont réussi sans baisser le lit. En tout cas c'est assez compliqué. Bonne chance
Merci de votre réponse, je sais que sur ce moteur c'est compliqué mais tous est possible.
Merci encore amis
hi, you lowered the engine about 1cm. did you just remove the screws along the exhaust? Have you loosened/removed any cables or screws in the engine compartment? Best regard Serhat
Hi, I lowered it about 8-10 cm. I didn't touch anything in the engine bay (from above). In the video I show about the exhaust. I removed the screws so that all the length of the exhaust can be lowered (till the exhaust pipe in the back of the car). Good luck
Thanks you so much!
THANK YOUUUU !!! ❤
You're welcome 🙂
Hi, how many centimetres is it harmless to lower the engine? Big thanks for the instructive videos!
I don't know exactly but for 8-9 cm you are fine. Good luck
Thank You again!!!@@ticktime6569
Hi, do you think that to change the fuel lines, the engine needs to be lowered as well?
Honestly I don't remember but I don't think so. You should be able from underneath and then from the engine bay
How much it cost to do that job?thanks
Combien de temps vous avez mis pour faire cette operation ? Avez vous aussi changer la pompe a eau ?
Non, je n'ai pas changé la pompe à eau. C'est un travail assez long mais cela dépend de vos compétences et de l'endroit où vous travaillez. Si vous êtes débutant, envisagez au moins 2 journées complètes de travail. Voeux
Do you have to lower engine to change the alternator. Thanks
If I remember correctly, not necessary
Is it safe for the steering column? Have you to unbolt left engine mount too?
Could you remove oil pan from there?
Goo
Sì va staccato anche il supporto post sx. Per lo sterzo non succede nulla purché non si inclini troppo il motore. Mi sembra si riesca a fare anche la coppa senza problemi
@@ticktime6569 grazie 1000! Ci proverò
@@maurizioalfieri602 considera che la scatola sterzo è ancorata al telaietto/slitta. Quindi muovendo il motore soltanto non la si influenza
Hi ! Do you think to remove the cylinder head from the engine you need to remove the engine !?
No it's not necessary
@@ticktime6569, Good Luck , that shall not succeed and you will see why when doing so.
You can remove the alternator and idler block without loosening the engine.
I lowered the engine because I did other jobs but you're probably right. There's very little space but it's possible. I should update the video with this warning
@@ticktime6569, well.. idk if it is good or not to be true, i did a bluefficiency w169 and replaced the idlers tensioner and belt without removing anything at all, but believe me, doing it this way or your way, it's both a h3ll alot of work! The design of a bluefficiency is even worse than this(special tool for tensioner, and only 2cm space between drive belt and chassis!), compared to this you got a sea of space... but respect! Job done, just never give up on it 😂, you must have been tired after doing this 👍 greets.
Hi. I have managed everything by following your guide. I am now only stuck about pulling the pin out. I can't get to it.
You have to turn the tensioner so you release pressure from the pin
@@ticktime6569 I did that but there's no space to get to the pin to actually pull it
@@Mafiacat2023 i remember being able to access with my fingers. Otherwise hit it until it falls down. Or use long pliers
@@ticktime6569 thank you. I will keep trying
I stripped everything. Drilled a hole in the pin and tied wire to it. I made a loop that I could use a bonnet strut to pull it. Put everything back again.... Success
Vedo che monti i dischi freno Ate Power disc, come vanno? Ho letto pareri contrastanti e sono indeciso se montarli sulla mia classe C W202, valgono i soldi extra rispetto al modello standard? Ciao!
Ciao, a me sembrano ottimi, è anche vero che non ci vado in pista con una classe B 😉 finora (50mila km percorsi) zero problemi. Li ho montati anche su altre auto. Auguri 🙂
@@ticktime6569 sul sito della Ate c'è scritto che fanno un suono caratteristico durante la frenata, di che si tratta? Non sia mai sia un fischio!
@@antoniocaringella7847 forse sono i solchi che grattando sulle pastiglie fanno un suono tipo un impercettibile raschiare. Ma io fischi mai avvertiti, onestamente non so a cosa si riferiscano di preciso. È vero che ogni tanto sembrano tipo "ruvidi" ma è proprio la loro caratteristica e dopo qualche km passa. Io li trovo potenti più di quelli di serie, li ricomprerei ma non son un esperto di impianti frenanti, son questioni complesse
@@ticktime6569 perfetto, ti ringrazio! Sono quello che cerco, un po' di potenza in più senza stravolgere niente e senza fare rumori fastidiosi...
@@antoniocaringella7847 li uso su una w204 e son soddisfatto. Spero sia così per te anche