Been watching your build series for awhile brother Im only 17 and went through 5 trucks before i found my 81 blazer project. Your videos keep me motivated on the build thanks
my oil press needle went down to 0 twice on an 18 mi trip last week morn in the rain. Did a U turn back to home approx 5 mi out. heated balancer core on bottom with propane. Finally got long OEM bolt to loosen with a combination of electric impact and larger weight hammer on the breaker bar with 6 point socket. With Snap-On 2-jaw puller w/ long jaws attached, some more hammering required (lefty loosey on the OEM bolt and righty tighty on the puller. progress was incrementally GRADUAL. Any way I came here regarding the two sight holes in the balancer and was wondering what kind of timing lights you all use on these newer Chevy motors? I installed a new stock Melling pump. Same brand i used to get in the engine kits in the good old days. I guess I have to go buy that longer install-bolt from GM dealer. LS1 Balancer-Bolt. I'm never gonna get 240 ft lb , 37ft lbs and 140 degree-twist inside a chevy express engine compartment. Thanks 3rd Gen C10's for the crankshaft to pulley key-way orientation-information.
Instructions that came in a Dorman replacement says to mark the old one in reference to the holes along the outer ring. My problem is I don't have the original to go by. And no lube on seal or seal surface??
@@3rdGenC10s thanks. I read a bad review on this Dorman Corvette spacing crank pulley. Outter ring wobbles loose. Have you had any experience with them. ?
Have you got it running yet I'm about to do my harmonic balancer and debating if I want to put it in then out timing cover but I already have timing cover on did you have any leaks putting cover on first
Can you not reuse the original stud that was holding the balancer in place, or is it just good practice to reinstall an brand new stud, I have never done this before 1st atempt just trying to get some guidance. Thanks .
I’m sure you could, but they are TTY (torque to yield) so only recommended tp use one time. TTY bolts are cheap to replace I just went with more expensive reusable ARP bolt.
I actually had to buy the torque wrench I used in the video to complete the job. It’s Tekton brand off Amazon. Super affordable and accuracy is very acceptable. Only used it when installing harmonic balancers or tightening pitman arms nuts. I’ve watched a few videos of them being installed that way. No problem doing it that way, I’m just more of a stickler for the way GM recommends.
@@3rdGenC10s yep, I have the tekton torque wrench 1/2 I use for my lug nuts and I believe the max is 150ftlbs. The tekton is amazing for the $30 shipped I paid before
Flexplate holding tool. Bolts in place of the starter. Chelhead Engine Flywheel Locking Tool Steel Black Oxide Flexplate Holding Tool Compatible with Chevy LS 1 2 3 LSX www.amazon.com/dp/B087JB34VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JQYAMG9EHYX25VHHY9N6
The way I understood it, it won’t work with a front wheel drive. It being 4 wheel drive should not matter as the starter holes will be in the same location.
Awesome video. When I was getting my 5.3 back together a couple of years back my nephew, Captain Caveman showed up about that time and before I could stop him the gorilla picked up my impact and bolted my balancer back in place with it in about 3 seconds. He's not one to be slowed down by unnecessary proper techniques. Bull in a china shop. No damage done to my knowledge but I sure was pissed. I'll know for sure when I take it back off soon to install my new high volume Melling oil pump. Where did you source the all thread you used and what was the length etc? If that's in the links provided my apologies. I will check them out too.
@@3rdGenC10s I bought both. The one you specifically used and a cheaper one as well. I noticed that some people needed to stack additional washers and one guy had trouble getting the tool out, just sort of got stuck and he used vise grips. I'm not doing that. I figure if mine gets stuck I'll put the nut from the cheap kit on top of the nut from the better kit together and lock them up so I can turn it back out. Same thread pitch for both right? I'll definitely use the tool you used to work on the issue. What a bitch it would be to break the cheap one off inside there and then have to figure out how to get it back out!
Been watching your build series for awhile brother Im only 17 and went through 5 trucks before i found my 81 blazer project. Your videos keep me motivated on the build thanks
Coop I appreciate the support, it’s a long process building these trucks but it’s well worth it.
Great video. Was looking everywhere for an answer on alignment.
Just press it on, balancer doesn’t have a key way or anything.
So if the old TTY bolt can handle the 240 ft lbs without breaking, why not just re-use it if you're risking it anyway? Doesn't make sense.
Idk, they tell you to use a new one. They are 4 dollars to buy a new TTY.
my oil press needle went down to 0 twice on an 18 mi trip last week morn in the rain. Did a U turn back to home approx 5 mi out. heated balancer core on bottom with propane. Finally got long OEM bolt to loosen with a combination of electric impact and larger weight hammer on the breaker bar with 6 point socket. With Snap-On 2-jaw puller w/ long jaws attached, some more hammering required (lefty loosey on the OEM bolt and righty tighty on the puller. progress was incrementally GRADUAL. Any way I came here regarding the two sight holes in the balancer and was wondering what kind of timing lights you all use on these newer Chevy motors? I installed a new stock Melling pump. Same brand i used to get in the engine kits in the good old days. I guess I have to go buy that longer install-bolt from GM dealer. LS1 Balancer-Bolt. I'm never gonna get 240 ft lb , 37ft lbs and 140 degree-twist
inside a chevy express engine compartment. Thanks 3rd Gen C10's for the crankshaft to pulley key-way orientation-information.
Computer controls the timing, I have never used a timing light on a ls.
Enjoyed the lack of options..just facts..thanks for that
Glad it helped out out.
Can use the stop plate tool with the motor and trans mounted? Great video!!!
Yes I use it for torquing converter bolts.
Instructions that came in a Dorman replacement says to mark the old one in reference to the holes along the outer ring. My problem is I don't have the original to go by. And no lube on seal or seal surface??
I never marked anything. I pulled balancer and just pressed it back on. Has over 2500 miles in it and counting.
@@3rdGenC10s thanks. I read a bad review on this Dorman Corvette spacing crank pulley. Outter ring wobbles loose. Have you had any experience with them. ?
@@govbentley2011 I do not. I always try to buy ac Delco when purchasing aftermarket.
Have you got it running yet I'm about to do my harmonic balancer and debating if I want to put it in then out timing cover but I already have timing cover on did you have any leaks putting cover on first
I used a crank centering tool before installing the balancer. No leaks and around 7500 miles on my swap.
The harmonic need aline with something especially?
No sir, slide it on and tighten it up.
Thanks man im doing that now.
Yes sir, I appreciate the support!
How did you keep the engine from turning while tightening/loosening the bolt?
Flex plate stop tool. Bolts in place of starter and keeps engine from rotating. Link for the tool is in the description of the video.
@@3rdGenC10s can I use that tool with the transmission bolted on?
@@JoseCruz-qf6ui yes
Can you not reuse the original stud that was holding the balancer in place, or is it just good practice to reinstall an brand new stud, I have never done this before 1st atempt just trying to get some guidance. Thanks .
I’m sure you could, but they are TTY (torque to yield) so only recommended tp use one time. TTY bolts are cheap to replace I just went with more expensive reusable ARP bolt.
@@3rdGenC10s I understand thanks. I really appreciate your response and I thank you for your video. Stay Blessed brother!
@@ecgodsmack86 no problem! Thanks for the support!
Why not just live the old one at 240?
Why you have to take it out
Stock balancer bolt is torque to yield.
What lubricant did you use on the installer bolt? High temp grease?
ARP Fastener Assemble Lube, you can purchase it on Amazon. My crank bolt came with a small amount of it.
I installed mine and it it supposed to be in timing??
No, there is no key way like on the older sbc’s just press it on and torque to spec.
Dang, I don’t currently have a torque wrench that goes up that high. Have you seen the sloppy uploads where he heats it up and just pushes it on?
I actually had to buy the torque wrench I used in the video to complete the job. It’s Tekton brand off Amazon. Super affordable and accuracy is very acceptable. Only used it when installing harmonic balancers or tightening pitman arms nuts. I’ve watched a few videos of them being installed that way. No problem doing it that way, I’m just more of a stickler for the way GM recommends.
@@3rdGenC10s yep, I have the tekton torque wrench 1/2 I use for my lug nuts and I believe the max is 150ftlbs. The tekton is amazing for the $30 shipped I paid before
I agree, I have the same one you describe and a in lb as well.
How did stop crank pulley from spinning while torque bolt down?
Flexplate holding tool. Bolts in place of the starter.
Chelhead Engine Flywheel Locking Tool Steel Black Oxide Flexplate Holding Tool Compatible with Chevy LS 1 2 3 LSX www.amazon.com/dp/B087JB34VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JQYAMG9EHYX25VHHY9N6
Do you know where a guy can get one for a 4x4? I used the link but it says it only works with rear wheel drive setups
The way I understood it, it won’t work with a front wheel drive. It being 4 wheel drive should not matter as the starter holes will be in the same location.
@@3rdGenC10s that’s what I was thinking. I probably misread the description. Thankyou
@@e.s.l5861 no problem hope that helps.
What size all thread did you use where did you find it
ICT Billet LS LT Harmonic Balancer Install Tool LS1 LT1 Pulley Installation 551141Z a.co/d/dahg0xY
All instructions say do not lube seal, so why you lube it?
Because it’s my motor
@@3rdGenC10s solid
Awesome video. When I was getting my 5.3 back together a couple of years back my nephew, Captain Caveman showed up about that time and before I could stop him the gorilla picked up my impact and bolted my balancer back in place with it in about 3 seconds. He's not one to be slowed down by unnecessary proper techniques. Bull in a china shop. No damage done to my knowledge but I sure was pissed. I'll know for sure when I take it back off soon to install my new high volume Melling oil pump. Where did you source the all thread you used and what was the length etc? If that's in the links provided my apologies. I will check them out too.
ICT Billet LS LT Harmonic Balancer Install Tool LS1 LT1 Pulley Installation 551141Z a.co/d/iw5V2oi
This is the tool I used!
@@3rdGenC10s Thanks, I really appreciate the information! I will be getting this tool as well.
@@kaylamarie8309 there are cheaper ones on Amazon but that is the exact tool I went with.
@@3rdGenC10s I bought both. The one you specifically used and a cheaper one as well. I noticed that some people needed to stack additional washers and one guy had trouble getting the tool out, just sort of got stuck and he used vise grips. I'm not doing that. I figure if mine gets stuck I'll put the nut from the cheap kit on top of the nut from the better kit together and lock them up so I can turn it back out. Same thread pitch for both right? I'll definitely use the tool you used to work on the issue. What a bitch it would be to break the cheap one off inside there and then have to figure out how to get it back out!
@@kaylamarie8309 grease the threads going into the crank, shouldn’t have any issues getting it back out.
Thanks for video
Hope it helped you out!
What is correct torque for 5,7 ram 1500 ?
Thanks
If using ARP hardware tighten bolt to 140 lb ft
This video helped a bunch
Glad I could help!
Good video helped me out
Glad it helped!
Good video 👍
I appreciate it! Hope it was able to help you out.
Great video !!
Glad it helped!
Nice instructions
Thanks I appreciate the support!
What your intake manifold and carb setup?
Edelbrock 71187 dual plane with a Edelbrock carb.
@@3rdGenC10s you have a link on info? Requirements for setup.
@@MaDTHUMBZ88 Edelbrock 71187 Intake Manifold www.amazon.com/dp/B001516EP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_KFW0KV7JF8T48Z5ZN4W9
Edelbrock 1407 Performer 750 CFM Square Bore 4-Barrel Air Valve Secondary Manual Choke New Carburetor www.amazon.com/dp/B000182DJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_YGNH90WMPNRB7QQBEDZK
MSD Ignition 60143 Controller; LS Ignition; for Both 24x and 58x Crank Trigger Engines; Black; www.amazon.com/dp/B01JP2KIT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_1DY74DJT151P9RMDQ4S0
How would you do this if you were using the oem torque to yield bolts? What do those torque down to?
Use old bolt torque to 240 lb ft remove old bolt install new torque to 37 lb ft plus 140°