Speedster Vlog #6 - Seal the Deal! - Pulley Seal Replacement
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Speedster Vlog #6 - Seal the Deal! - Pulley Seal Replacement
Porsche 356 Speedster , Speedster tune-up , 356 pulley seal, 356 oil leak fix , 356 drive , Speedster Drive, 356 oil change
Hi Everyone! Look what we have in the garage! An actual 1955 Porsche Pre-A Speedster! In the 6th episode we run down a bad oil leak to find it is a bad rear pulley seal. We have our work cut out for us! Leave questions down below. Thanks for watching!
Links to the tools in the video:
Extendable Torque Wrench ½ inch drive:
amzn.to/2zabCZ
Torque Wrench:
amzn.to/2zabCZB
30 MM Wrench:
amzn.to/2Bej6fH
Motion Pro 08-0380 Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter: goo.gl/FhZGNz
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/ heidiandfrannysgarage
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Due to factors beyond the control of “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”, We cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. “Heidi and Franny’s Garage” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”.
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In the 6th episode, we run down a bad oil leak to find it is a bad rear pulley seal. We have our work cut out for us! Leave questions down below. Thanks for watching!
Links to the tools in the video:
Extendable Torque Wrench ½ inch drive:
amzn.to/2zabCZB
Torque Wrench:
amzn.to/2zabCZB
30 MM Wrench:
amzn.to/2Bej6fH
Motion Pro 08-0380 Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter: amzn.to/2qRfkmk
Help support our channel and become a patron:
www.patreon.com/heidiandfrannysgarage
I love it when you baby those old Porsches...my old Meister taught me on my 912 to make sure you have a total of ten shims...that way you can control what gives as the belt loosens over its lifetime. Stay happy and healthy!
A Crows Foot. Excellent. One of the reasons I watch you videos is because you always use your head and come up with easier ways to accomplish the task. I watched a "He Man" change the rear axle bearings. I thought there was no way I could pull that off. Then I watched YOUR video. It's a big job, but completely approachable. Brains...not brawn.
Thank you for all your help. I'm replacing the front transmission seal and pulley seal and with your help it will be a piece of cake!
Yea! Good luck :)
I seem to remember back in the day, that we adjusted the belt tension by measuring the deflection when you pushed in on the belt in the middle, but I don't remember the amount. Great save with the crowsfoot.
Very good video, impressed! When you got the wrench head to press the seal back in place, I saw the smile. I think lots of us have been there too. A mixture of relief and happiness because you know for sure it's a 'good job'. You're a really good teacher, simply explained, technically accurate. You are wonderful to watch.
Thanks so much!
[I'm confused] Seems like that happens a lot huh? ...well actually no, you seem more like a genius troubleshooter. I do appreciate your modesty though so don't change. Great video as always.
I was thinking the same thing.
The starter method of removing a crank bolt is common, but you usually do it with the end of the wrench against one of the frame rails. I wouldn't trust it if the wrench was just sitting on the tin.
I woke up and saw a new Franny video! That’s a good Sunday!
You are a amazing mechanic I learned so much on exactly what I wanted to know and I myself have been a mechanic for over 50 years I was truly impressed thank you so much.
Common point of oil leaks in type 1 engine right there at the crank especially when using a larger built engine with increased rev ability. VW did use use a seal either but relied on a slinger on the crank and the pulley itself has external threads that is supposed to bring oil back into the engine. I kinda wished they used the seal like Porsche did. Funny you mentioned Muir's book. One of the first tools I bought when starting the hobby. BTW I've also found that belt tension will increase when the engine is fully warm so I too don't set it too tight,it is no fun changing the genny or alternator while engine is in the car especially with dual carbs and extra breather box etc. You do nice work.Enjoyable to watch.Cheers.
Another maintenance repair done right!
If my co-worker - who does all the classic Porsche in our shop - could see you‘re installing the lettering on the belt upside down... 😁 Would pop his brain, that‘s for sure. One could only do worse if the pointy edge of the wheel’s Porsche crest doesn‘t points towards the tyre valves.
Awesome work! I was always told to set belts like chain on bike, about 1/2" play in belt and tighter when cold because they stretch when heated. Enjoyed video and coffee as always! Thanks
There's nothing wrong with bumping the starter to loosen the nut. I put the long wrench inside of a half roll of paper towels for padding, put it on the nut, bumped the starter, loosened it right up.
Awesome hack with that crowsfoot! Really enjoy you showing the troubleshooting process.
In all the VW's and one 356 I owned, I never had to change that seal in the car. Very good info and great tips. Thanks!
I think our 356 is also leaking slightly - that was the reason I had an extra seal ;)
Great job. Awesome collection of cars 👍
Thanks!
Great video Franny! Enjoy your videos early Sunday with a triple espresso. Your videos remind us how fragile, finicky, and Fiddly these classic cars were. Spent many w/e flat on my back with these .......
Very well done !
I watched this right though, a fascinating video once again Franny.
Thanks Roger!
Great video. Loved the crow’s foot seal press. Good tip. Thanks.
Super cool and informative video !
Everything seems to be easy whith you
Well, not really. I usually need to do things several times first.
You must be the neatest mechanic in the U.S.,I can't open the hood without getting filthy. Great video!
It helps to start with a clean engine bay and I do get dirty...
Another great video Franny !!!! Thanks a lot.
Great video. The extendable wrench is cool. When it comes to cars and Porsches in particular there's no such thing as too informational :)
I really enjoy your technical videos. Thanks!
Franny, its great watching you work with such great care and patience! I also like the bright ideas you come up with, and your thorough knowledge of what you are working on. What kind of training have you received to get to this point of quality technicianship?
I really enjoy watching your videos. You have a great way of showing and explaining how to do a lot of stuff, (don't forget to mention the 10mm bolts that hold the sheet metal behind the pulley are shorter) Great presentation. I need to stop by a tech session if I ever make it to Colorado in the Summer again.
Please do
Admire your pluck! Keep on wrenching!
Great Video again. Love your tools! Thanks!!!
Massing Job. You are awesome. Saludos.
Hello Fran and Heidi, love these videos. I am making them a part of my Porsche Library, thank you. I am sure that I will be referring on to them soon. I very recently inherited a 1960 356B Roadster and now in my learning curve; do you or your readers know if there are any fresh air vents in this model. I can't find any reference or by looking under the dash plus the side windows have no vent windows. Thank you.
In your videos you constantly impress me with your knowledge of car repair in general. I would love to hear what background led to you knowing so much about how the mechanics of cars work, how you figure out what to do, where to look, and how to fix it. Could you do a video about how you learned what you know?
Have you started with how to start working on your car? ua-cam.com/video/KQI6TOa9R6I/v-deo.html.
Hi John, we have been tossing some ideas back and forth on this subject. It will make a great winter project :)
Need a franny fix while I work feeling cozzy!
Just found this channel and it's great! Franny, how did you do that job without turning your pink shirt black with dirt?!
You guys are funny! I have been a mess on several occasions ;)
She does it by being ultra careful, and having the cleanest cars you've ever heard of.
Great watch, thanks
Fantastic! Thank you so much.
Another great video! 👍😘
I bought the exact wrench haha!
Just how DID you learn to do all this stuff? Great video, Franny!
By using the torque adapter you've changed the lenght of the torque wrench (lever). And because of that the measurement of the torque wrench might be incorrect. The lengt of the lever needs to be same as the lenght of the torque wrench.
We don't agree on the equal length principal. The torque adapter device simply provides a fitting (looks like 3/8 inch standard) by which an actual torque wrench can be applied to a suitable open or box end wrench. The video clearly shows Franny's exertion of 45 foot pounds of torque as indicated by the clicking Tekton Torque Wrench . . .
@@michaelmarrone5289 Well i would recommend some lessons in simple physics. ;)
If the torque wrench is kept at 90deg to the applying wrench, then the effective distance from the adapter to the point of applied torque is zero and therefore is irrelevant. It has to do with the applied force vectors. I go through the calculations in my video on the 356 transmission oil change here (9min in): ua-cam.com/video/NbA08XqoakE/v-deo.html Also, there is an online calculator here: www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx. The angle between the two wrenches is key. If that angle is zero, torque addition occurs. If they are 90 degrees apart, only the torque wrench torque will be applied. Check out the math. It is interesting... Franny
Excellent work as per usual Franny! Please try to be more kind to yourself. Modesty and self deprecating humour are wonderful traits to be sure. Just don't be unkind. Otherwise keep on truckin'!
Very good advice :) Thanks!
" If this doesn't work , I'll pull the engine ; it'll just add another 1/2 hour or so " . Do you have an engine removal video in the Franny archives ?
Ya know, I don't... We have talked about puling the 356 engine to fix a few pesky oil leaks.
Thank you for the video. What happened to the little washer that came out with the seal? I didn't see you reinstall one?
I went back and watched it and I think that was the round spring that is actually part of the seal. Looks like it popped out as I was deforming the old seal while removing it. The new seal will have it already installed. f
@@HeidiandFranny thank you. You have inspired me to change mine. I've got the nut off but the pulley is on very firm. Any advice. I thought about using a bearing puller but got worried it would move the crank
@@neilbardsley Can you get a puller in there? I couldn't. Don't put too much force on the edge of the pully as it can crack. I used plastic wedged in the hope I wouldn't put too much force on it. Try removing the rear tin and getting a puller in there. Put the bolt back in (but not seated, but just a couple turns out) so you don't bugger the threads. It was a bear to get out...
So a smooth belt is correct and a notched belt is wrong? Didn't know that! Replaced the kinda worn notched belt that came on my '68 Beetle with a non-notched Continental belt a month or two ago and thought I had kinda downgraded the system doing so. Now I feel a lot better. :D
Hi Chris, I believe the non-notched fits the pulley better, but the non-notched was working for you. Just make sure you keep a spare on you. Just in case.
Oh yeah, there's a brand new spare belt in the toolkit. :)
Agree, another great video. Quick question, on the seal install. I used the install tool. You can see the process when I did the engine rebuild here:
www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?44592-My-1967-912-Build-Thread&p=330824&viewfull=1#post330824
With the seal install tool... looking at it closely, you will see that it inserts the seal about 1/16" into the third case. In my case, I was so paranoid being a newbie doing my first full engine rebuild, that I used Loctite 574 on the outside of the seal to make sure there was no leaks!
I am still running the break-in on the engine while it is on the stand... so far, no leaks. Oh, here... a video after replacing the bent push rod from my mistake during install. Engine is alive and running without any weird noises!!
ua-cam.com/video/1VYVTGwRBzk/v-deo.html
That torque adapter contraption!!! Sweeeeet!!! I need to get me one of those!
And I just realized that I probably got the belt tension too tight... will correct that before the engine goes into the car.
Sorry for the multiple edits... could not resist to comment as I was watching the video. So I kept coming back to edit as I learned something new.
I am loving these videos!! Keep them coming! Thank you!
I think you're slightly confuddled about the lower gear vs higher gear.
Revers is usually the lowest gear in the box but it is also the weakest. 1st gear should be used to assist with locking the engine. Park on your steep drive and it will chug down when in top gear. 1st gear will probably hold it.
Reverse is the physically strongest gear because it is straight cut. Also it has the lowest ratio (usually) and provides the strongest hold against the compression of the engine.
@@HeidiandFranny The actual gear itself may be straight cut but how it works within the gearbox by going through an opposing gear on a not so strong shaft is what makes it weaker. If you ask any or at least most recovery guys they will tell you through experience to never use reverse when tugging as it will probably break the gear.
As I said, reverse is usually the lowest gear in the box and as you say now (but not in your video) it will 'hold; best (as an anti-rotation) but it is still the weakest gear in the box.
I wasn't trying to be picky with your video, TBH. I can hardly think of somebody I've been more impressed with by their work and have been binge watching your videos. Although I do all this too, including heavy recovery I just find your stuff really nice to watch. I suppose one of the main differences is that I do all engine and gearbox work in-house.
Love your videos ❤️
Where do (did) you buy your 356 parts?
Thanks! Either Stoddard's or Sierra Madre :)
Hello Franny, can i ask which type of permatex you use for the interior of the pulley
A nice easy 356 project for once! lol
How much torque is the extendable ratchet rated for, without breaking?
Ya know,... That is a great question! I have put over 100 lb-ft through the 1/2 inch drive and it was just fine... I bet it would go south past 150 or so...
Great Video!! Franny trying to fix the pulley seal leak on my 64SC and I see the previous owner put orange permatex all over the pulley bolt and washer. Is there any reason to do this?
I think, maybe to keep oil from weeping through the bolt? Our 356 has blue Permatex on that bolt as well.
Is there another washer behind that oil seal?
Seal pulley vw bug over heats the engine?
Post a list of your tools, I’d like to get some of them.
We have the links in the video description, but let me know if there is something missing you would like a link for. Thanks!
Great video! Where did you find that torque adapter?
Hi Chris. I thought we had the link. Let me check. It should be in our description. Heidi
Hey Franny what four post lifts do you have?
Direct Lift, Propark 8S. Here's a couple episodes on it. ua-cam.com/video/enPy96sihyo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Cw7BQMKNxUI/v-deo.html
Heidi
I had thought the notched belt was to reduce slip, Google search seems to indicate notched belt is "preferred" but I can't seem to understand why or when it's appropriate to use one versus not use one. I enjoyed the video but if you can address this issue that would help.
Hi David, The notched belt doesn't fit this particular pulley properly. The OEM part is not notched either, which is why we used it. When in doubt, we revert to OEM. I'm sure the notched is just fine too. Thanks. F.
@@HeidiandFranny That's the rule I'll just use too then..... stay with OEM spec belt - thanks!
Hi there. The profile of a notched belt and a solid one should be the same. A notched belt is normally used if the belt has to bend the other way like with an external pushing belt tensioner. This is not the case here why the solid is preferred due to the better friction ability.
@@XiraArien thanks! :)
a notched belt is more energy efficient (not by a lot though). it takes less energy to run it through deformation cycles. as a result they run cooler and last longer. the tighter a std belt is turned in a pulley the more the notched belt will best it from an efficiency standpoint. i have a vw type 1with alternator and only run notched belts.
Hi Franny where did you get tekton torque wrench and baby brother?
Those came from Amazon. I really like them.
Thank you i found them at Lowe's, I'm a fan of your videos, Love you show and knowledge I hope to meet you both one day. When I drive my VW. ,'53 Zwitter to Colorado from Salt lake City
Hi Heidi and Franny do you guys know where I can get a 4 hole crank pulley for my 356 A engine? Mine broke
way to macgyver the new seal
hello is this seal the same on a v.w.bug?
No. 356 have a third piece.
Love your videos franny are you facebook
We have a page on facebook. Just do a search for Heidi and Franny’s garage. You can also click on any description in UA-cam and the link is there.
@@HeidiandFranny i was gonna send you message but i dont see messageto click on too