I had an idea about the bolts vibrating loose: it looks like there would be room to fit a nylon lock nut on the bolt. Tighten the lock nut to the side of the bracket to keep it in place. I'll try it on mine when I get one
I have one of those guides and never got the hang of making the three screws grip the bar without slipping. Finally drilled holes in the bar and inserted bolts to solve that problem. Had to plain the edge of my guide board after it got wet and swolen.
Yes, you need a dry board. the trick with the screws is to keep going around in a circle tightening them each multiple times until none of them are loose anymore. Tightening 1 loosens another up to a point.
Sir -- good for you for figuring out how to make your own lumber. People are beating you up in the comments because you're showing some unsafe practices, but your video does show the product doing its thing. Maybe not in the safest or most efficient way, but I just wanted to see it, so the vid has value for me. One big thing I noticed right away that I ALWAYS see with less-experienced sawyers -- your chain is way too loose. This is a significant safety risk and makes the saw perform poorly. New chains stretch a bunch the first few cuts and need to be tightened. A properly snug chain should pull off the bar in the center and 'snap' back into the track -- it should not hang loose at all. Watch some vids on that. Your critics are also correct that the log should be supported so it can't move during cutting -- sawhorses, wedges, whatever -- it shouldn't roll or wiggle. Just cut a couple big log pieces flat on the bottom and cupped (or a "V") for the log to sit in on top and you're good. Also, wear BOOTS, earplugs, eye protection and preferably gloves, a hard hat and chainsaw chaps when you use chainsaws. Safety is an individual call -- depends on your experience level and willingness to sustain life-threatening injuries, but having done decades of professional tree work in my time, I'm here to tell you from first-hand experience that horrendous injuries come from slackish safety practices with chainsaws. Footwear, eyes and ears are mandatory, as are a stable log, level ground free of tripping hazards, a hardhat to keep the saw from chopping through your face on kickback and -- for this kind of milling work -- a dust mask like the $39 dual-filter 3M shop respirator keeps the fine dust and fumes out of your lungs nicely. You really shouldn't breathe that stuff and milling throws it all up in the air, so I wear a mask. If you have a properly sharpened chain, the saw will 'pull' its way down the log -- best at a 30-45 degree angle -- and you should never have to 'see-saw' back and forth like that. Just hold her steady and move at the pace the saw can cut without bogging down. You'll end up with a better-looking, smoother board that way. This Timber Tuff is a great (Chinese knock-off version of the American-made Haddon Lumbermaker) tool for making posts and rough boards. Combine it with a Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill and you can make all kinds of rough lumber. Just make sure you have a big enough saw for the size logs you're cutting and invest in ripping chains -- they're worth it. Keep it up -- and thanks for the vid!
Hi, My name is Fat Dan and I built a two story 3600sf cordwood house that I cut from the Alaskan wilderness, each floor has 128 beams, posts and caps and some are as long as 37 feet long. I cut all the beams (nearly 400 well over 20,000bf) with a guide much like yours. Here is a link if you wish to see my house. @IBHY First tip be sure to block both sides on each end of the timber/beam to keep keep it from moving and make crisper sharper edges. I've been thinking about making a video of making a 30' beam to show everyone the pros, cons and my experience with this type of mill/guide.
crazy! It takes a lot of work to cut this way, and I'm not using a ripping chain. Maybe a ripping chain would make all the difference but its slow going otherwise to rip 8 foot length wood, especially hardwood
The ripper chain thing is a myth. I've been logging with my grandfather since I was ten (thirty years ago) and we used a ripper chain once. The concept is that it will 'cut' better. It doesn't. It just wastes less wood and is more forgiving to moving the saw side to side. In other words: It makes less aggressive marks on the finished lumber. A standard chain is actually faster and if you believe it, is supposed to 'waste' more wood. In my experience the ripper chain is just not needed. Off set sharpening of a standard chain is more than adequate for the work. I mean, if you are really worried about perfect cuts and waste you would use a $1500 and up actual lumber mill. Not a $40 clamp on attachment.
Why would you be using a ripping chain for logging? Felling, bucking...that's crosscutting. Loggers don't cut lumber. Did your grandfather ever let you hold the saw? My ripping chains make a dramatic difference. You can SEE it with your eyeballs while you're cutting. A crosscut chain will create sawdust while running horizontally on a log and especially perpendicular. A ripping chain will create long shavings in the same orientation, meaning that it is cutting way more wood with each tooth. The orientation where you will not see as much improvement is in the sawmill orientation where you have the bar perpendicular to the log. You are actually cutting across the endgrain like that. If you tilt the saw back around 45 degrees in the mill, then you will be slicing with the grain and making nice long shavings and cutting a lot faster. Ripping chains are definitely NOT a myth.
@@Josef_R Agreed. The ripping chain's tooth spacing is farther apart, they have special scoring teeth between each cutter tooth (keeps the cut surface smoother) and they're far more effective at cutting along the grain ("ripping") rather than across the grain (cross cutting -- felling, bucking, etc.), which is what chainsaws are set up to do out of the box. The cutter teeth on a ripping chain are filed at a 10 degree angle as opposed to a 30-35 degree cross-cutting chain's cutter teeth. Ripping chains leave a smoother board / slab surface and are easier on the saw, so if you care about the quality of the board you end up with and the life of your saw, they're well worth it. Get two, so you have a spare. Keep them sharp and snug on the bar.
May 2020 Amazon price has risen to $77 plus shipping if not a Prime customer. DIMENSIONAL LUMBER IS *not* what you are using. A 2 x 6 dimensional lumber board is 2" x 6" while a "regular" planed 2 x 6 board is 1.5" x 5.5"
The Timber Tuff I have yet to use appears to be one of the dumbest products on the market for those of us fooling around with trees, logs, etc. Mine looks to have a fair amount of slop built in so that it doesn't straddle the guide board without flopping from side to side-a prescription for wavey cuts. And the three sharp steel nipples in the channel gouge the board instead of sliding along the top of it smoothly. Not a single word in the 'Instructions' about why they put those there.
WOW, brutal, one of the worst videos I've seen, dull chain, log not properly supported, etc....There should be UA-cam police to stop these videos, just because of the safety concerns.
Thinking about picking up a pair of them safety Crocks
😅
I will try waxing the 2x4 with skateboard wax/candle wax if the sliding motion is necessary to a straight cut. Thanks for video!
I had an idea about the bolts vibrating loose: it looks like there would be room to fit a nylon lock nut on the bolt. Tighten the lock nut to the side of the bracket to keep it in place. I'll try it on mine when I get one
I have one of those guides and never got the hang of making the three screws grip the bar without slipping. Finally drilled holes in the bar and inserted bolts to solve that problem. Had to plain the edge of my guide board after it got wet and swolen.
Yes, you need a dry board. the trick with the screws is to keep going around in a circle tightening them each multiple times until none of them are loose anymore. Tightening 1 loosens another up to a point.
Sir -- good for you for figuring out how to make your own lumber. People are beating you up in the comments because you're showing some unsafe practices, but your video does show the product doing its thing. Maybe not in the safest or most efficient way, but I just wanted to see it, so the vid has value for me. One big thing I noticed right away that I ALWAYS see with less-experienced sawyers -- your chain is way too loose. This is a significant safety risk and makes the saw perform poorly. New chains stretch a bunch the first few cuts and need to be tightened. A properly snug chain should pull off the bar in the center and 'snap' back into the track -- it should not hang loose at all. Watch some vids on that. Your critics are also correct that the log should be supported so it can't move during cutting -- sawhorses, wedges, whatever -- it shouldn't roll or wiggle. Just cut a couple big log pieces flat on the bottom and cupped (or a "V") for the log to sit in on top and you're good. Also, wear BOOTS, earplugs, eye protection and preferably gloves, a hard hat and chainsaw chaps when you use chainsaws. Safety is an individual call -- depends on your experience level and willingness to sustain life-threatening injuries, but having done decades of professional tree work in my time, I'm here to tell you from first-hand experience that horrendous injuries come from slackish safety practices with chainsaws. Footwear, eyes and ears are mandatory, as are a stable log, level ground free of tripping hazards, a hardhat to keep the saw from chopping through your face on kickback and -- for this kind of milling work -- a dust mask like the $39 dual-filter 3M shop respirator keeps the fine dust and fumes out of your lungs nicely. You really shouldn't breathe that stuff and milling throws it all up in the air, so I wear a mask. If you have a properly sharpened chain, the saw will 'pull' its way down the log -- best at a 30-45 degree angle -- and you should never have to 'see-saw' back and forth like that. Just hold her steady and move at the pace the saw can cut without bogging down. You'll end up with a better-looking, smoother board that way. This Timber Tuff is a great (Chinese knock-off version of the American-made Haddon Lumbermaker) tool for making posts and rough boards. Combine it with a Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill and you can make all kinds of rough lumber. Just make sure you have a big enough saw for the size logs you're cutting and invest in ripping chains -- they're worth it. Keep it up -- and thanks for the vid!
Great tips .thank you for teaching me new skills. Best wishes from Ireland 🇮🇪
Hi, My name is Fat Dan and I built a two story 3600sf cordwood house that I cut from the Alaskan wilderness, each floor has 128 beams, posts and caps and some are as long as 37 feet long. I cut all the beams (nearly 400 well over 20,000bf) with a guide much like yours. Here is a link if you wish to see my house. @IBHY
First tip be sure to block both sides on each end of the timber/beam to keep keep it from moving and make crisper sharper edges.
I've been thinking about making a video of making a 30' beam to show everyone the pros, cons and my experience with this type of mill/guide.
crazy! It takes a lot of work to cut this way, and I'm not using a ripping chain. Maybe a ripping chain would make all the difference but its slow going otherwise to rip 8 foot length wood, especially hardwood
Mine fell apart on the 3rd cut .. i liked it up to that point.
The ripper chain thing is a myth. I've been logging with my grandfather since I was ten (thirty years ago) and we used a ripper chain once. The concept is that it will 'cut' better. It doesn't. It just wastes less wood and is more forgiving to moving the saw side to side. In other words: It makes less aggressive marks on the finished lumber. A standard chain is actually faster and if you believe it, is supposed to 'waste' more wood. In my experience the ripper chain is just not needed. Off set sharpening of a standard chain is more than adequate for the work. I mean, if you are really worried about perfect cuts and waste you would use a $1500 and up actual lumber mill. Not a $40 clamp on attachment.
Thanks good info!
Why would you be using a ripping chain for logging? Felling, bucking...that's crosscutting. Loggers don't cut lumber. Did your grandfather ever let you hold the saw?
My ripping chains make a dramatic difference. You can SEE it with your eyeballs while you're cutting. A crosscut chain will create sawdust while running horizontally on a log and especially perpendicular. A ripping chain will create long shavings in the same orientation, meaning that it is cutting way more wood with each tooth. The orientation where you will not see as much improvement is in the sawmill orientation where you have the bar perpendicular to the log. You are actually cutting across the endgrain like that. If you tilt the saw back around 45 degrees in the mill, then you will be slicing with the grain and making nice long shavings and cutting a lot faster. Ripping chains are definitely NOT a myth.
@@Josef_R Agreed. The ripping chain's tooth spacing is farther apart, they have special scoring teeth between each cutter tooth (keeps the cut surface smoother) and they're far more effective at cutting along the grain ("ripping") rather than across the grain (cross cutting -- felling, bucking, etc.), which is what chainsaws are set up to do out of the box. The cutter teeth on a ripping chain are filed at a 10 degree angle as opposed to a 30-35 degree cross-cutting chain's cutter teeth. Ripping chains leave a smoother board / slab surface and are easier on the saw, so if you care about the quality of the board you end up with and the life of your saw, they're well worth it. Get two, so you have a spare. Keep them sharp and snug on the bar.
How do you cut thinner straps. Want to make 1 1/2" wide boards not 6" wide
May 2020 Amazon price has risen to $77 plus shipping if not a Prime customer.
DIMENSIONAL LUMBER IS *not* what you are using. A 2 x 6 dimensional lumber board is 2" x 6" while a "regular" planed 2 x 6 board is 1.5" x 5.5"
True, rough cut vs what you buy at home depot
7:54 cool safety gear
QUICIERA SABER SI EN URUGUAY LO VENDEN ?
Good video.
Poor saw....😞😞😞Like a car goin around sayin "wash me"
Sharpin some teeth!!!
Crocs ? Really ?
you’re wearing CROCS while using a chainsaw ? you have got to be kidding me.
I wouldn’t recommend wearing knockoff crocs though, that would be unsafe.
ASS... LOL!!!! @@MicahGallant
you work with a chain saw while wearing slippers
what does this younger generation have against shoes and socks anyways...
trying not to be a snowflake ;) also, i'm 40. does that make me younger generation?
crocs and a helmet
LMFAO...What about here 3:32 where he reaches down over the running chainsaw chain... What a DA...
The Timber Tuff I have yet to use appears to be one of the dumbest products on the market for those of us fooling around with trees, logs, etc. Mine looks to have a fair amount of slop built in so that it doesn't straddle the guide board without flopping from side to side-a prescription for wavey cuts. And the three sharp steel nipples in the channel gouge the board instead of sliding along the top of it smoothly. Not a single word in the 'Instructions' about why they put those there.
Wearing shorts while cutting is a poor excuse for a presentation, you should take this post down before you get someone hurt
Sharpen your chain...
Looks flimsy. Light gage.
It works well for what it is
toys for boys :-)
WOW, brutal, one of the worst videos I've seen, dull chain, log not properly supported, etc....There should be UA-cam police to stop these videos, just because of the safety concerns.
I am a green hand in the field. I learned much from you kind and good people, especially those giving suggestions on safety. Thank you all.
This is embarrassing to watch😔
Wearing crocks? Dumb! No gloves? Dumb!
absolutely, i agree.