I am a retired painter. Thought I'd give my perspective here for what it's worth. The brush you mentioned that has the bristles cut at an angle is called a Sash brush. The corner roller cover you showed is new to me. I have never seen one and wonder how smeared it makes the wall the end of the roller cover touches. As far as covering the floor with the plastic sheet, I must disagree strongly. Plastic does assure that paint will not reach the carpet. However, Plastic has negative points too. Any paint that falls on it can be a slipping hazard if you step in it. I have seen people slip and fall because of that. The other issue is that if you step in the paint, you may track in to other rooms. Best drop cloths for home owners that I have found is the paper drop cloths most paint departments sell now. If I'm painting walls only it makes no sense to spread drop cloths over the whole floor. I recommend taking a paper drop cloth and folding it neatly into a runner about 2 to 2.5 feet wide, making sure the paper side is on the outside. Then the runner has a nice straight edge that I can put right up to the baseboard. The runner is slid along the wall as needed. It is fast and you do not have a wrinkled drop cloth tripping you up. I recommend that anyone rolling forget those troublesome roller trays. i never use them. The best way I have found is to buy a 5 gallon plastic bucket and a roller screen for it. All pain departments sell the roller screen and the plastic buckets. You are less likely to spill a bucket than you are a roller tray. The bucket allows you to put 1 to 2 gallons of paint in the bucket so you do not have to stop and refill it often. Paint should never be so deep that it touches the bottom of the roller screen. I never dunk a roller. It just drips paint all over the place. Instead bring the roller down untill it just touches the to of the paint and roll it lightly to load paint into the roller. Then roll the excess off on the roller screen and you are ready to roll it on the wall. As for roller frames. I tell people to buy a stiff frame but not the expensive ones that have ball bearings in them. When rolling NEVER press the roller hard against the surface you are painting. It does not good to try to squeeze the paint out of the roller. Roll the surface using barely any pressure. If you press on the roller you often cause one end of the roller to apply more paint than the rest of the roller causing a bead of paint on the wall. Lastly I recommend buying good brushes. Bad brushes leave brush marks and often the bristles fall out only to stick to the wall. I could go on a d on on how I paint, but this should give anyone reading this some things to think about before painting.
All solid tips. 👍👍 the quality of the finished product depends in order, the experience of the applicator, the quality of materials, the quality of the tools. Each can be improved by the previous one, except the applicator themselves, that only comes with practice and experience.
Once was painting an apartment and the unusually low ceiling was just barely out of my reach(I'm 5'5") My stilts were way too high to use (even adjusted all the way down) So I found some old boots and screwed two empty paint cans onto them to make 'mini-stilts' Worked great, but kinda noisy. My helpers thought it was a hoot & ribbed me mercilessly. But I told them, "My wife always tells me I need about 6 more inches" And they laughed even harder for some reason.
I'm a contractor and do floors paint, etc. But I do have to say your a good teacher, clear spoken and I learned a few tricks from you brother. And as far as all people talking about stilts ----- then don't use them if your not sure. He just showed how easier it can make job if your capable. Common sense people. Thanks for videos brother. Keep up the good work. Peace....
I had a painting business way back in the late sixties early seventies . in those days we used 9 inch rollers with a dry wall bucket and a screen hanging inside . this was super fast and clean. A plus in those days was eight ft. ceilings . i had contracts with large apartment complexes and they were all a very basic layout with low ceilings . i'm quite tall so a sash brush with a long handle was enough to be able to "cut in" without a ladder . when there was a fire we washed the walls with trisodium phosphate ( quite toxic ) and then primed with pigmented shellac . that sealer out performed anything made today and dried in minutes . ok i'm rambling , i'll shut up now Good video !
1. Dap dry Dex (pink color) 2. 18" nap roller and extension pole 3. Proper nap 1/2" for texture; 3/8" for smooth walls 4. Corner roller pad with side covered roller 5. Use drywall stilts for top edge to cut in ceiling with brush around edges instead of moving ladder around Purdy slant 2.5" brush and use continuous motion 7. Use oil based primer for water bleeding through Pro Block primer by Sherman Williams (not acrylic) and use mini disposable brush AND also knots on wood 8. Paint doors. Stack Rack to paint doors to 9. Plastic film on carpet
I was a professional painter for over 35 years and I've never used an angled brush to cut in. In fact the contractor that I did my time with, we used 6 inch brushes to cut in walls and ceilings. Once you learn how to manipulate the brush you can do just about anything with it. Even fine stuff, It's all about getting the right paint load on the brush and skills.
At first when I saw the title I was like, "ah painting tips?" And then I watched and I was like, "holy crap I wasted how many days of time painting our two houses over the past 20 years" It's so simple, it's easy not to know. I feel like painting now because it's going to take less time. Thanks.
I've been painting for 33 years. The best drop cloth for slippery surfaces is actually something you can get at a place like Jo-Ann Fabrics or other fabric stores. Insulated drapery material has a rubber backing and can be bought in bolts and torn in two long runs. Purdy products are definitely the leader in the painting tool industry. Wooster is also an excellent choice. As far as rolling popcorn textured ceilings you're better off spraying it or using an oil-based product because the texture is water-based, so the waterborne latex will activate it and all that textures going to come off on your roller.
Don't paint popcorn, remove it! Once painted, you can't remove it safely by wetting it. My wife wanted to do that to our ceilings. Thankfully, I was able to talk her out of that mess. If it is already painted you can skim coat with drywall compound, but that is a big job and takes practice to get it right.
I've never been able to afford a professional painter and have always done the painting myself. My new home has a vaulted ceiling in the bedroom that I want to paint. With these tips, I am certain that I can do it myself. Thanks for an excellent video! I am excited and feel relieved that I can still get done what I need without having to pay someone. ♥
@J. Baker Thank you. I beg to differ with you. I have found out that I'm pretty good with the painting -- not professional but pretty darn good. When I get these stilts I will definitely give them a try a few times to get used to them before I actually start the job, and will be especially cautious and plan.
Sweetheart, Please don't try using that huge roller! I've tried to use one that was somewhat smaller and it was still too heavy when loaded with paint - and especially when you're doing ceilings! I'm in the process of painting the interior of my home and I went and bought the standard sized rollers! Also got extension poles - those save me a lot of work. I'd love to hire a professional, but it just isn't in my budget - I'm 71 and live on Social Security. I'm sure a professional painter will look at my walls and say, "yep, she painted this alright!" but it'll be a whole lot better than the way it looks now, so I'll live with it. ha.
Great advice and well done video, thanks. Stilts are great if one is young and agile-I'm older (60) and my body doesn't take the punishment anymore, nor is my balance the best, so I use a good ladder and take my time. I have found that safety is better than efficiency sometimes. Cheers from New Mexico USA
Here’s 2 tips I always told customers when I worked in paint stores, DON’T skimp on the the quality of paint you purchase. Buy the best quality you can afford. And do your preparation properly, otherwise you’ll be repeating the job the following year.
My entire house us painted with cheap Wal Mart paint. If the budget is small, and you prep carefully, it's ok. The outside was done 15 yrs ago and only now needs a recoat. The color is fading.
If you are right handed then you cut in a room counter-clockwise, (right to left) to eliminate your lines from your previous brush stroke by overlapping 4"-6". Your second coat will not need to get in as tight as the first coat so you can go a little faster. Cut down from the ceiling with your brush at least 2 1/2" to keep your roller from hitting the ceiling when you get to the top.
Perfectly said... Cutting in is an art. Two things I see people do that makes me cringe. 1. They only cut in an inch half and 2. They cut in after they roll.
I been painting for almost 20 years and i have never seen a guy get up on stilts like that without a small stepladder (or something high like that) to sit on. i would fall and bust my hip. impressive. the corner roller is a new one on me. they aren't sold in my local paint stores yet. but i have used the mini roller that is identical for years. these do leave a swirly pattern that can be visible and no fun to sand if you allow it to dry all swirly. with a 4 inch mini roller you get a much more narrow swirl pattern and you have much more control to avoid swirls. you can stiil attach the mini roller to a pole and they sell special paint holders that strap to your hand so you can tout the mini roller AND your brush at the same time. its like a little 4 inch tray in your hand. no point to use the 9 inch corner roller if you are going to also use the 18 inch roller. use the 4 inch mini with the 18 inch roller , or, just use the 9 inch corner roller in place of both.
40+ yrs painting here and yes never saw someone get on stilts like that, impressive. And yes about the swirl marks in corners looking bad, that's why I still 'cut-in' with brush.
I am a Professional/expert painter decorator in Ottawa, Canada. 41 years, self taught. 2 most important tools to SAVE time and MONEY is the Richard 2 1/2 Gooseneck flexible paint brush extension, and the 6 inch mini fabric whizz roller. I use these everyday! Keeps me off ladders and SAFE!! Cheers!
Always check to see if your textured (e.g. popcorn) ceiling is painted or unpainted. If unpainted, you have a wonderful opportunity to remove it and have a smooth ceiling (just spray with water and the stuff easily scrapes off). If painted, it's nearly impossible to get off with water.
As a professional painter, a couple of thoughts. First, thanks for making the video. I had never seen a corner roller and plan on looking for one. I have seen drywall finishers using stilts, but never painters. Walking around on stilts on a job site seems like a good way to fall and get hurt. Plus, you will need to carry your paint pot in your hand instead of letting it rest on your ladder, which can cause you to get tired a lot faster. As far as brushes go...I prefer a 3" flat tipped brush, especially the Purdy Pro Stiff (blue bristled). We go through a set of new brushes about once a month on our jobs, and any other brush just can't take the abuse and are quick to lose form. An angled 2 1/2" brush is good for cutting in baseboards or other trim, but I would try to not use it to cut in ceilings or walls. Finally, any plastic put on carpets or any floor for that matter will quickly become your worst enemy. You can easily step on a drop of paint, and since it tends to not dry on plastic, you'll wind up tracking it all over the house. Rubber backed cloth dropcloths work much better. We use 4'x12' cloths and just run them along the perimeter of the room, unless of course you are painting ceilings too, in which case you'd cover the entire floor. In some instances, we will first put plastic on the floor, then cover that with paper (all taped very well, of course), particularly when spraying. One final detail...please sand anything you cover holes with once it's dry. Otherwise you'll see an outline of it under the paint.
I like it. Drywall stilts, yes. Oil base Primer, yes. You're a professional. I am a good DIY painter. We can't edge like you. I love the sure line edger. I have painted 3 house with it.it is a short nap with 2 wheels on the edge. You have to make usre you keep the wheels clean and the edge clean, but I just continuosly clean it on my pants.
Despite what other people say, great video. Especially for larger houses. Most people with larger houses and tall ceilings will happily pay someone to paint their house. If you're a true DIY'er you won't be afraid to use stilts. Quick and to the point on all tips. Very relateable if you've just started painting your house. That angled brush is probably my favorite tip. I've had a hard time getting comfortable with a brush and that tip will help me. The doors is a pretty good idea, I thought it was easiest to paint them mounted. Fortunately I work in a shop with a paint booth I could maybe knock them all out at once. Thanks and you are a better teacher than you think.
Ditch the stilts. Put a 2x12 plank/joist (8 or 10 ft) flat ways on the rungs of two small step ladders at each end, parallel to the wall. An average weight person can stand on it. You can walk down the length of the wall on the board and cut in. It saves many trips up and down the ladder which is hell on your legs. It can easily be moved around the room.
@@terrygunter4432 A professional painter or taper may want a pair of stilts. This video is for a d.i.y. homeowner who may only paint a room or two /once every ten years. My suggestion of a simple cheap wooden board/joist and 2 small step ladders (many people already own) is a much cheaper and less dangerous option than buying and leaning to walk on stilts and or the more expensive extending aluminum walk boards. After you are done using my option you can use it for one side of your raised garden bed ;)
@@billstretch9187 They slide. Dangerous.Ive tried every method you can think of in a pinch. Joint compound buckets, crates. tool boxes - all dangerous. Some duct tape around the edge might help from sliding . Two milkcrates at either end with a board on top isnt a bad idea.
Nice I never thought of that for job sites. Although for homeowners I’d recommend the cut in brush tools (little rectangles) and they can be put on a pole
I've been using stilts for decades. You can get seriously hurt if you lack agility and balance. We use 18" roller whenever possible--3/8 or 1/2" lambfab sleeves leave the best finish on plaster, drywall and 1/4" mohair for doors. I don't recommend anyone spraying doors if they have not been trained. That airless he is using pumps more than 1/2 gallon per minute. I use HVLP for doors and get a car-like finish every time
I'm a landlord and I do most of my maintenance myself including all prep and painting. While I don't paint every day, or even every month, I have painted alot over 40 years of owning rentals. I do not like plastic on the floor b/c the dripped paint takes so long to dry and then I track it everywhere. I like cloth drop cloths. These are old sheets, blankets, bedspreads, towels and table cloths that past tenants have left over the years. They are also washable. I only cover the whole floor if I'm spraying a ceiling. If I'm using a sprayer, a plastic tarp goes under the cloth, under the sprayer in case of bigger drips or paint sloshing. I can usually make ceilings last about 4-6 years but walls get repainted if a tenant has been there over 18 months. I blue tape (1.5") along the baseboards. I use the cloths under the wall I'm painting. If I'm really cautious about a carpet, I'll use painters paper (9-12" roll) tied under the blue tape. to give a little more protection. I pull the blue tape about 2-3 hours after the area is painted. If I lay it out right, I don't even have to bend down to pull several walls of blue tape/paper. For cutting the walls to the ceiling, I use a sash brush and stand on a couple 18" tall 3'x18" aluminum steps (just for cutting). For the rolling, I'm tall enough at 6'3" to gets the whole 8' wall without assistance. I roll the top half about 3' wide then the bottom half then next top, etc moving to the right when possible (right handed) and always try to keep a wet edge. For any beginners out there, once a paint has started to dry, do not try to "touch-up" anything you think is flawed. It will cause a texture difference that you will see.
Thumbs up for using 18 inch roller. It was a big success for me. I never painted ceiling so can't say anything about it. Also , 9 x 12 feet drop cloth was more flexible than laying plastic sheet. Plastic or paper sheets stick with the feet and move as you walk on them. You can also slip while painting walls around stairs area. Also, always check with painter's guidelines what type of roller (Polyester or White Dove or other) should be used for the paint type you have picked. I use Sherwin Williams and they recommend Polyester based sleeve for their thicker paints and White Dove for more thin ones.
Agreed, and I no longer mask off the hinges, they are usually pretty tarnished or stained, so I just replace with new after paint job is finished. New ones look 100% better and only a few bucks each.
As a professional coatings specialists of 28 years in the industry I found this video highly entertaining. I couldn’t stop laughing at some points. Thank you for the great time. Some of the comments are awesome too. Haha. Made my day.
Nice tips , And i hear that yinzer accent. I’m a 1 man paint crew you’re absolutely right about the 18” rollers the really help. I have 3-4’ long “drywall platforms ” I use instead of stilts only have to move those once in awhile but it’s the same concept, you’re not cutting in then moving a ladder every 16”
Either you can use the tips offered in this video or not. The negative comments are pathetic. This man is sharing a useful skill, take it or leave it. Fkn haters
useful tips would be nice useful tips are easy stuff, that a novice would have no trouble doing. its not hating if we're pointing out poor advice I've been on stilts, it's not something you just get on and go. No carpet? no drop clothes, no furniture, who's tips are these for? A stool or a 4' ladder is pretty ez to get around your not wasting tons of time and its SAFE Roll the ceiling with a normal 9" roller, same as he did, once done, you need little to no paint to catch any drips and complete the edge of the ceiling. If "his" 9" roller puts excessive paint on the wall your still going to have to run around to catch the excess. Not to mention now your using 2 different rollers a 9" and an 18" because we know people (homeowners) who are doing it themselves don't have to go out and buy this stuff He's spraying the doors? Cause everyone has spray equipment and an empty room to paint without fear of over spray. How foolish of me to critique this video.
@@blartuc2769 Agree 100%. The video is labeled hacks for homeowners. What homeowner is going to have stilts or spray equipment? Better off just hiring a professional instead of investing in either of those items.
Absolutely not! You do not use plastic knives for mudding. You don't use plastic wood on walls. 18" rollers are horrible to use, especially on walls. They are heavy, are hard to feather out edges, and you have to make your cut lines larger to accommodate the larger more cumbersome roller. The clean up time is twice as long and they are expensive. When at a store, you see 9" rollers in abundance for a reason. Sorry, but this guy is a hack.
Thanks for posting the video. It's always interesting to see how someone handles a common trade. It's too bad there are so many haters in the comment section.
R J Serra the haters aren’t exactly hating. Not from what I’m seeing. It benefits the economy and the homeowners to hire professionals. Not to mention the environment when fools are still using oil based material.
-i like 14" rollers... more like 9" open on one end. -1" putty knife is best for patching flat surfaces. Never had need for Corner covers. I roll mine tight and only hit the area around base and ceiling with brush. -Oil primer is better than latex on stains but binz shellac is my favorite.
Had to pause the video and rush to the comments as soon as i saw the stilts, i was anticipating some entertaining banter but it doesn't look like anyone is in the mood to make fun (likely cuz the presenter of this vid seems like a nice dude and he did offer some helpful tips)
Gread video. I just learned a better way to cut in wall to ceiling by watching you unload the excess paint on the wall, slant the brush more and use longer sweeping motions. As for the stilts? Maybe best for circus peformers working part time as painters. 🤣 For us typical folks, a hospital stay won't save much time or money. (However I do admire your ability to navigate on them). Thank you for your tips.
As we just recently moved into a home that needs updating, I will be doing a great deal of painting. Some of these tips make a lot of sense, and I will be putting them to use soon... Thx...
Want a good brush for cutting it? Get the Whizz brush from Lowe's. It's not only angled, it's also beveled. The tip follows where ever the back side of the brush goes. Cuts time significantly.
Very best timesaver I ever used was an electric paint roller. A pump takes the paint right from a bucket (1 or 5 gal), through the handle, and into a special roller where the paint then comes out and saturates the nap on the roller. This saves time & your back because you never have to bend down to get more paint. As long as your thumb is on the pump button, you just keep rolling. You can do a whole bedroom in 20 minutes (not including the masking & cutting). There's also a LOT less dripping because you aren't moving the roller constantly from the wall to the paint pan & back all the time.
@@bigj3339 I don't remember the brand I used. All I remember is it was bought at Lowes for about $100, 10 years ago. Ex GF got custody of it, so I don't have it to look.
Pick of nap thickness is key. 3/8 thin naps don't carry enough paint to get down the wall. For production, a 3/4 can be used if you use a very lite pressure last pass.
@@thesage1096 ...the average homeowner isnt going have a month of working with stilts carrying a brush and cut bucket at the same time to be proficient and safe...in 30 years of general contracting I've seen exactly 2 painters ever use stilts...they are used by drywall finishers
I use 2step stools put them fairly close together where your cutting in. Use one step over too next. Then reach over and move too next spot you need too cut in. You don't have too get up and down. And easyier than climbing a ladder. Step stools with the handle on the top work best.
This is a much better tip than the stilts. I can't even imagine a homeowner that has little painting experience trying to walk around and cut in with stilts lol.
@@SyrupyBeard I use a 2 plank mini scaffold. I paint for a living but check these videos out on occasion to see if there's something new I can learn or a new product I'm not familiar with.
@@billh4185 Stilts seem okay if you're proficient enough with them but not everyone is going to be able to use them. I like the Cotterman 2 step mobile step stand because you can slide it easy and it stays in place once you put pressure on it. Very good invenstment for me 🙂
Thank you, that really helps. I'm a painter from just outside Toronto. I have an airless sprayer too. I have small triangle or pyramids that I use for painter doors but yours are much bigger and bitter and you can stack door on top of each other, that's cool. Thanks again from Canada. Tim
Thanks for your video - very useful. My tip (if it is indeed a tip) about cutting-in, is to apply the first touch onto the wall in an arc from behind and below the point where you want to join onto the last swipe and keep the paint brush bristles really pressed against the wall - that way you don't have too much paint (blobby) and the bristles absorb any micro movements of an unsteady hand which is desperately trying to "keep a straight line".
1st thing I see, as a painter with 35 yrs experience, the Purdy roller system is a screw on roller head. I recommend using the Wooster roller pole system. It Lockes the roller to the pole and won't come loose while rolling. Purdy, or any other screw on heads will come loose.
I can do very good painting work without tarps and with furniture still in the room. I painted a few neighbors and my homes whole insides. Ppl are always shocked that i work so fast but still so clean and organized while doing so. Then again, im a artist and just have very steady hands. One guy said i paint like im doing surgery
I’m a beginner, and was just searching around. This is an excellent video and I really appreciate you taking the time to share all this knowledge! Great job and good luck with your channel!
I have, and have used and 18” roller once, once. You do not realize the weight until after a room and the next day you will feel it. 5 gallon bucket and pair screen with a normal roller and you will be good to go and, I think much faster. As you can move the bucket near you when needed with less fuss and mess. But that is my opinion.
Thankyou so much for explaining about having the right nap length on rollers and also using the roller with the nap right to the edge. That is helpful. Thanks.
great tips except for the stilts (paint+ newbie stilt walkers = disaster) and the plastic. The amount of plastic waste generated from painting one room is highly irresponsible. I use old sheets and canvas dropcloths which I have reused multiple times. Just allow then to dry completely and put them away and you can reuse them the next time you paint.
If possible, doors can be set up in garage. Drape off garage like you would drape off as if you were painting the ceiling, basically setting up a shooting booth. Using Free 5 gallon stir sticks, stand doors up at an angle, tacking stir sticks to top of one side of door, one next to another. Simply space enough to spray them standing up.
As this is supposed to be aimed at homeowners I am surprised (to say the least!) to see stilts on the list, the potential for a disaster is extremely high, just buy a decent hop-up and a ladder of some sort that will fulfil your needs, also a pro spray set up ain't cheap either, doors can easily be painted in-situ using a four-inch roller and a decent brush, no need to take them off, no need to spray. Plastic wood filler on a wall, why? There are many good filling compounds out there made specifically for drywall. Using an 18" roller on walls in an average size room makes no sense to me at all, then I see you use a 9 inch on the ceiling, personally, I would swap that around and use the 18" on the ceiling and the 9" on the walls. When cutting in use a brush and a 4-inch roller to eliminate any brush marks you may leave behind, make sure you use the same nap of roller sleeve as the one you use for the rest of the walls.
So many useful tips as always!! I would of never thought of or used that 18" roller. That sucka was cool looking. Hoping all is well guys, keep the videos coming & Dirty Jersey out!!
There is an attachment for roller, extention handles that will hold a paint brush. But it takes some skill to cut in without hitting the ceiling. Keeps your feet on the floor and saves so much time by not climbing up and down ladders.
I tried that for one pass, and ditched it. You really have to get your face up there and close when cutting in, and hold that brush steady, like a pencil. Cutting in using an extension will work, but will have very poor results, such as crooked lines, runs, etc.
I'm on a very cheap low budget so I used a small roller to paint, than I started with cheap paint before covering with expensive. It is hard to use very cheap paint, it doesn't cover much so you need to do it 5x. So I realized better use the expensive because I only need to put one or 2coats my arms will not sore. And everytime I stop, I put my roller in a bucket of water soak it so it won't dry. I'm painting concrete walls. It saves me from using so many rollers. Same with thinner for enamel so that I can reuse roller. Weathergard is really thick and good. Elastomeric coats well.
Great tips, I learned a lot. I'm a moderate professional. Not sure the stilts would work for me at 5'8 but I do like the rolling light weight painter scaffolds. You can just pull yourself along as needed without the up and down.
Paint needs to go on like one continuous sheet. So fast is essential. You are pushing a bead of paint, for straight lines, keep in mind the physics of what's happening. Once the sheet is applied going any direction go over it in one direction either up or down ,while it's still wet. It creates a uniform surface reflection without "flash".
I see people pressing the paint loaded roller far too hard against the hard wall surface and what it does is cause super uneven coats of paint because they are stretching out paint. Most people dont realize that by rolling ut on the wall lightly, the roller is doing the job petfectly. These people go at it so hard they end up wearing themselves out quickly. Lol
Great cut-in tip! I couldn’t figure out why I kept screwing up with a glob here and there. Thanks so much. I do feel we should be using less rather than more plastic, and maybe just pulling the drop cloth up right away in case of an accident. But a great, short, straight-to-the-point video!
Use 1/2" nap for walls..not 3/8"..or you will wear your self out. Walls are usually not level and have dips from where joints were mudded. It's easier to use 1/2" nap rollers and just roll out any excess paint that the thicker nap holds. Same for ceilings. I have found I get skippers with 3/8" nap rollers. I use 5/8 " nap for textured ceilings..same principle as stated earlier. Just need to be careful not to press too hard when you first apply roller to wall or ceiling so you don't flip the paint off everywhere..you won't have to dip the roller as often either. Hope this helps on your paint jobs.
Hi mike great video.I have used most of your suggestions over the years.The idea of using any plastic to protect floors is not good .The paint drips stay wet for a long time .so are often carried to unprotected surfaces. Plastic is only good to protect furniture.construction paper or good cotton dust sheets are the way to go .Regards
Thank you so so much! All great info, easy to understand, and nothing unnecessary. We have owned a home and painted rooms many times now. We have used the plaster and the cutting in techniques, but all the other tips were new and I feel so relieved to find some great ways to make a big upcoming paint job much more efficient. Right now, I need to scan your other content! What additional magic home owner tips have you been so generous to share?!?! Thanks again! Stay well.
you only get brush marks if you press heavy handed, and if professional you go as close as you can with your roller to or along the edge to cover alledged brush marks
@@deanob1982 ..maintaining a wet edge and brushing into it is paint apprenticeship 101 you won't have to screw around trying to hide them with a roller ..never start a brush stroke in wet paint and brush away from it...i don't care how light your hand is or how long you've painted..you'll see it
I've used DAP white tub n tile caulk (small hand held tube) many times to fill small nail holes and even gaps/cracks around window trim and sills. It's super easy to apply and uses water for cleanup. Never any sanding required and no painting required on light or white walls.
Tip: DON'T buy a house with cathedral ceilings and DON'T agree to paint somebody else's house with cathedral ceilings. You were brave to use the stilts. This guy could go from house painter to circus performer. : )
Stilts are dangerous af unless you know what you're doing. ERs make good money from people learning how to use them. 😀😁 Not much efficiency when you're laid up injured and out of commission.
As a decorater i wouldnt recommend anything his showing in this. Dont use wood filler on plastered walls they take more coats to cover and harder to rub down just use easy fill. Cut your ceiling in with a brush and rad roller with a pair of steps dont be lazy and use a 12" roller. I use long pile and back roll it till paint is flat. And doors can be rolled and layed of with a brush.
Just started a new job at an old hotel and it has plenty of carpets. As this is early-stage I have advised the owner to cover them with plastic film to keep them clean but he has refused straight away. Can't wait to see how carpets gonna look like after plasterers finish their job 😁
We thank you for the work and the next painters in line will thank you also. It’s much nicer to work behind a clean professional that used the proper material for the substrates as well as did a clean job.
great advice . am an amateur painter who only paints my own home . i can say absolutely no european in the world can paint as neat as me . maybe because am an artist , but am actually an anaesthesiologist
A good multipurpose primer is pva. Works on wood and drywall if all exsisting paint is latex. Glidden makes a product called Grip Lock that works with stains/smoke.
Thank you, I picked up on several tips. And by the way, you can stack even higher than 4 high with stak-Racks with of course additional purchases or 1 large size bulk purchase. This way you can limit how much space you need to a minimum by stacking even higher than 4 if needed. I think one can go at least 7 high & the product will hold all ok. I've used stack-Racks & they work great!
You have the same stilts as I do. I hate the up and down of using ladders when I paint. NOT safe if you're missing any strap. Cheap and easy to install new ones!
I am a retired painter. Thought I'd give my perspective here for what it's worth. The brush you mentioned that has the bristles cut at an angle is called a Sash brush. The corner roller cover you showed is new to me. I have never seen one and wonder how smeared it makes the wall the end of the roller cover touches. As far as covering the floor with the plastic sheet, I must disagree strongly. Plastic does assure that paint will not reach the carpet. However, Plastic has negative points too. Any paint that falls on it can be a slipping hazard if you step in it. I have seen people slip and fall because of that. The other issue is that if you step in the paint, you may track in to other rooms. Best drop cloths for home owners that I have found is the paper drop cloths most paint departments sell now. If I'm painting walls only it makes no sense to spread drop cloths over the whole floor. I recommend taking a paper drop cloth and folding it neatly into a runner about 2 to 2.5 feet wide, making sure the paper side is on the outside. Then the runner has a nice straight edge that I can put right up to the baseboard. The runner is slid along the wall as needed. It is fast and you do not have a wrinkled drop cloth tripping you up. I recommend that anyone rolling forget those troublesome roller trays. i never use them. The best way I have found is to buy a 5 gallon plastic bucket and a roller screen for it. All pain departments sell the roller screen and the plastic buckets. You are less likely to spill a bucket than you are a roller tray. The bucket allows you to put 1 to 2 gallons of paint in the bucket so you do not have to stop and refill it often. Paint should never be so deep that it touches the bottom of the roller screen. I never dunk a roller. It just drips paint all over the place. Instead bring the roller down untill it just touches the to of the paint and roll it lightly to load paint into the roller. Then roll the excess off on the roller screen and you are ready to roll it on the wall. As for roller frames. I tell people to buy a stiff frame but not the expensive ones that have ball bearings in them. When rolling NEVER press the roller hard against the surface you are painting. It does not good to try to squeeze the paint out of the roller. Roll the surface using barely any pressure. If you press on the roller you often cause one end of the roller to apply more paint than the rest of the roller causing a bead of paint on the wall. Lastly I recommend buying good brushes. Bad brushes leave brush marks and often the bristles fall out only to stick to the wall. I could go on a d on on how I paint, but this should give anyone reading this some things to think about before painting.
Semi-retired here after 40+ years. I find ALL your comments dead on correct. Thanks!
Thank you I do a lot of painting and will remember your tips ....👍
I’d like you guys to critique my how to video.
All solid tips. 👍👍 the quality of the finished product depends in order, the experience of the applicator, the quality of materials, the quality of the tools. Each can be improved by the previous one, except the applicator themselves, that only comes with practice and experience.
Thank you for your tips!
Once was painting an apartment and the unusually low ceiling was just barely out of my reach(I'm 5'5") My stilts were way too high to use (even adjusted all the way down) So I found some old boots and screwed two empty paint cans onto them to make 'mini-stilts' Worked great, but kinda noisy. My helpers thought it was a hoot & ribbed me mercilessly. But I told them, "My wife always tells me I need about 6 more inches" And they laughed even harder for some reason.
Lol. Ur wife is savage!
I have taped 5 gallon buckets to my shoes and fly through a house that way but standard walls I am 6'2 with long arms and cut ceilings flat footed
I'm a contractor and do floors paint, etc. But I do have to say your a good teacher, clear spoken and I learned a few tricks from you brother. And as far as all people talking about stilts ----- then don't use them if your not sure. He just showed how easier it can make job if your capable. Common sense people. Thanks for videos brother. Keep up the good work. Peace....
thank you 🙏🏼
I had a painting business way back in the late sixties early seventies . in those days we used 9 inch rollers with a dry wall bucket and a screen hanging inside . this was super fast and clean. A plus in those days was eight ft. ceilings . i had contracts with large apartment
complexes and they were all a very basic layout with low ceilings . i'm quite tall so a sash brush with a long handle was enough to be able to "cut in" without a ladder . when there was a fire we washed the walls with trisodium phosphate ( quite toxic ) and then primed with pigmented shellac . that sealer out performed anything made today and dried in minutes . ok i'm rambling , i'll shut up now
Good video !
1. Dap dry Dex (pink color)
2. 18" nap roller and extension pole
3. Proper nap 1/2" for texture; 3/8" for smooth walls
4. Corner roller pad with side covered roller
5. Use drywall stilts for top edge to cut in ceiling with brush around edges instead of moving ladder around
Purdy slant 2.5" brush and use continuous motion
7. Use oil based primer for water bleeding through Pro Block primer by Sherman Williams (not acrylic) and use mini disposable brush AND also knots on wood
8. Paint doors. Stack Rack to paint doors to
9. Plastic film on carpet
Painter here and I tell everyone “angled brushes are key” to cutting in!!
I can cut with any brush but angled are thr best.
@@charlesfrank7854 completely agree!
Agree but my professional painter friend doesn’t like them.
@@rogerpattube That’s how I learned. but I respect if they don’t use it. As long as it looks good and gets the job done!
I was a professional painter for over 35 years and I've never used an angled brush to cut in. In fact the contractor that I did my time with, we used 6 inch brushes to cut in walls and ceilings. Once you learn how to manipulate the brush you can do just about anything with it. Even fine stuff, It's all about getting the right paint load on the brush and skills.
At first when I saw the title I was like, "ah painting tips?" And then I watched and I was like, "holy crap I wasted how many days of time painting our two houses over the past 20 years" It's so simple, it's easy not to know. I feel like painting now because it's going to take less time. Thanks.
Ha ha very bad painting advice here! Painters don't use stilts and that isn't the proper way to paint a ceiling!!
I've been painting for 33 years. The best drop cloth for slippery surfaces is actually something you can get at a place like Jo-Ann Fabrics or other fabric stores. Insulated drapery material has a rubber backing and can be bought in bolts and torn in two long runs.
Purdy products are definitely the leader in the painting tool industry. Wooster is also an excellent choice. As far as rolling popcorn textured ceilings you're better off spraying it or using an oil-based product because the texture is water-based, so the waterborne latex will activate it and all that textures going to come off on your roller.
Don't paint popcorn, remove it! Once painted, you can't remove it safely by wetting it. My wife wanted to do that to our ceilings. Thankfully, I was able to talk her out of that mess. If it is already painted you can skim coat with drywall compound, but that is a big job and takes practice to get it right.
I've never been able to afford a professional painter and have always done the painting myself. My new home has a vaulted ceiling in the bedroom that I want to paint. With these tips, I am certain that I can do it myself. Thanks for an excellent video! I am excited and feel relieved that I can still get done what I need without having to pay someone. ♥
Michelle....you gonna try those stilts? Good luck!
@J. Baker Thank you. I beg to differ with you. I have found out that I'm pretty good with the painting -- not professional but pretty darn good. When I get these stilts I will definitely give them a try a few times to get used to them before I actually start the job, and will be especially cautious and plan.
@@lindap.p.1337 Yes ma'am!
Sweetheart, Please don't try using that huge roller! I've tried to use one that was somewhat smaller and it was still too heavy when loaded with paint - and especially when you're doing ceilings! I'm in the process of painting the interior of my home and I went and bought the standard sized rollers! Also got extension poles - those save me a lot of work. I'd love to hire a professional, but it just isn't in my budget - I'm 71 and live on Social Security. I'm sure a professional painter will look at my walls and say, "yep, she painted this alright!" but it'll be a whole lot better than the way it looks now, so I'll live with it. ha.
@@margaretd3710 That makes a lot of sense. Thank you!
Great advice and well done video, thanks. Stilts are great if one is young and agile-I'm older (60) and my body doesn't take the punishment anymore, nor is my balance the best, so I use a good ladder and take my time. I have found that safety is better than efficiency sometimes. Cheers from New Mexico USA
Here’s 2 tips I always told customers when I worked in paint stores, DON’T skimp on the the quality of paint you purchase. Buy the best quality you can afford. And do your preparation properly, otherwise you’ll be repeating the job the following year.
Well your job to sell the paint but I don’t use the best paint I use mid range to high and never any call backs
As a former profesional house painter, I strongly agreed with you. Penny wise, pound foolish 😊
My entire house us painted with cheap Wal Mart paint. If the budget is small, and you prep carefully, it's ok. The outside was done 15 yrs ago and only now needs a recoat. The color is fading.
Dulux
Men like you don’t hear this enough, but thank you for your hard work!
Agreed, we need contractors and painters etc. badly!!
If you are right handed then you cut in a room counter-clockwise, (right to left) to eliminate your lines from your previous brush stroke by overlapping 4"-6". Your second coat will not need to get in as tight as the first coat so you can go a little faster. Cut down from the ceiling with your brush at least 2 1/2" to keep your roller from hitting the ceiling when you get to the top.
Perfectly said... Cutting in is an art. Two things I see people do that makes me cringe. 1. They only cut in an inch half and 2. They cut in after they roll.
🤣 - you can overlap strokes from any direction using any hand
@@markmarcantonio5808 less accurate, especially for non professionals
@@markmarcantonio5808
Laughing emoji is kind of childish when people are just sharing advice to help out others. Don't ya think?
I been painting for almost 20 years and i have never seen a guy get up on stilts like that without a small stepladder (or something high like that) to sit on. i would fall and bust my hip. impressive. the corner roller is a new one on me. they aren't sold in my local paint stores yet. but i have used the mini roller that is identical for years. these do leave a swirly pattern that can be visible and no fun to sand if you allow it to dry all swirly. with a 4 inch mini roller you get a much more narrow swirl pattern and you have much more control to avoid swirls. you can stiil attach the mini roller to a pole and they sell special paint holders that strap to your hand so you can tout the mini roller AND your brush at the same time. its like a little 4 inch tray in your hand. no point to use the 9 inch corner roller if you are going to also use the 18 inch roller. use the 4 inch mini with the 18 inch roller , or, just use the 9 inch corner roller in place of both.
40+ yrs painting here and yes never saw someone get on stilts like that, impressive. And yes about the swirl marks in corners looking bad, that's why I still 'cut-in' with brush.
The taller the person the harder the fall😕
Ive never seen anyone use something to get on stills.
I am a Professional/expert painter decorator in Ottawa, Canada. 41 years, self taught. 2 most important tools to SAVE time and MONEY is the Richard 2 1/2 Gooseneck flexible paint brush extension, and the 6 inch mini fabric whizz roller. I use these everyday! Keeps me off ladders and SAFE!! Cheers!
I use a 40 inch long 20 inch high aluminum platform I got from the big box hardware store when painting. Sometimes they are on sale for $19.
Always check to see if your textured (e.g. popcorn) ceiling is painted or unpainted. If unpainted, you have a wonderful opportunity to remove it and have a smooth ceiling (just spray with water and the stuff easily scrapes off). If painted, it's nearly impossible to get off with water.
45min mud works really well to patch as well. Dries fast and doesn't shrink either. Thanks for the other tips.
thank you and great tip, setting type joint compound works as well 👍🏼
Fast set powder type mud has a catalyst that will flash through paint...you end up pre priming it anyways
But you got to prime that as well. In fact most products you have to prime.
As a professional painter, a couple of thoughts. First, thanks for making the video. I had never seen a corner roller and plan on looking for one. I have seen drywall finishers using stilts, but never painters. Walking around on stilts on a job site seems like a good way to fall and get hurt. Plus, you will need to carry your paint pot in your hand instead of letting it rest on your ladder, which can cause you to get tired a lot faster. As far as brushes go...I prefer a 3" flat tipped brush, especially the Purdy Pro Stiff (blue bristled). We go through a set of new brushes about once a month on our jobs, and any other brush just can't take the abuse and are quick to lose form. An angled 2 1/2" brush is good for cutting in baseboards or other trim, but I would try to not use it to cut in ceilings or walls. Finally, any plastic put on carpets or any floor for that matter will quickly become your worst enemy. You can easily step on a drop of paint, and since it tends to not dry on plastic, you'll wind up tracking it all over the house. Rubber backed cloth dropcloths work much better. We use 4'x12' cloths and just run them along the perimeter of the room, unless of course you are painting ceilings too, in which case you'd cover the entire floor. In some instances, we will first put plastic on the floor, then cover that with paper (all taped very well, of course), particularly when spraying. One final detail...please sand anything you cover holes with once it's dry. Otherwise you'll see an outline of it under the paint.
I like it. Drywall stilts, yes. Oil base Primer, yes. You're a professional. I am a good DIY painter. We can't edge like you. I love the sure line edger. I have painted 3 house with it.it is a short nap with 2 wheels on the edge. You have to make usre you keep the wheels clean and the edge clean, but I just continuosly clean it on my pants.
Despite what other people say, great video. Especially for larger houses. Most people with larger houses and tall ceilings will happily pay someone to paint their house. If you're a true DIY'er you won't be afraid to use stilts. Quick and to the point on all tips. Very relateable if you've just started painting your house. That angled brush is probably my favorite tip. I've had a hard time getting comfortable with a brush and that tip will help me. The doors is a pretty good idea, I thought it was easiest to paint them mounted. Fortunately I work in a shop with a paint booth I could maybe knock them all out at once. Thanks and you are a better teacher than you think.
Ditch the stilts. Put a 2x12 plank/joist (8 or 10 ft) flat ways on the rungs of two small step ladders at each end, parallel to the wall. An average weight person can stand on it. You can walk down the length of the wall on the board and cut in. It saves many trips up and down the ladder which is hell on your legs. It can easily be moved around the room.
I love mine!
@@terrygunter4432 A professional painter or taper may want a pair of stilts. This video is for a d.i.y. homeowner who may only paint a room or two /once every ten years. My suggestion of a simple cheap wooden board/joist and 2 small step ladders (many people already own) is a much cheaper and less dangerous option than buying and leaning to walk on stilts and or the more expensive extending aluminum walk boards. After you are done using my option you can use it for one side of your raised garden bed ;)
Get two plastic milk crates and you can easily move them around while standing on them.
@@billstretch9187 They slide. Dangerous.Ive tried every method you can think of in a pinch. Joint compound buckets, crates. tool boxes - all dangerous. Some duct tape around the edge might help from sliding . Two milkcrates at either end with a board on top isnt a bad idea.
Nice I never thought of that for job sites.
Although for homeowners I’d recommend the cut in brush tools (little rectangles) and they can be put on a pole
I've been using stilts for decades. You can get seriously hurt if you lack agility and balance. We use 18" roller whenever possible--3/8 or 1/2" lambfab sleeves leave the best finish on plaster, drywall and 1/4" mohair for doors. I don't recommend anyone spraying doors if they have not been trained. That airless he is using pumps more than 1/2 gallon per minute. I use HVLP for doors and get a car-like finish every time
As a 25 year building contractor I have to say your tips are on point. Like the door stack.
I worked for a painter a long time ago and we always found the best sealer for knots in wood trim was white shellac.
Exactly, knots will bleed back through oil also over time. BIN shellac primer is the best. Dries alot quicker than the "fast drying" oil primers
As a painter i can say he’s speed is like anyone’s else and important thing when you paint…don’t rush and try ALWAYS to have paint on roller.
I'm a landlord and I do most of my maintenance myself including all prep and painting. While I don't paint every day, or even every month, I have painted alot over 40 years of owning rentals. I do not like plastic on the floor b/c the dripped paint takes so long to dry and then I track it everywhere. I like cloth drop cloths. These are old sheets, blankets, bedspreads, towels and table cloths that past tenants have left over the years. They are also washable.
I only cover the whole floor if I'm spraying a ceiling. If I'm using a sprayer, a plastic tarp goes under the cloth, under the sprayer in case of bigger drips or paint sloshing. I can usually make ceilings last about 4-6 years but walls get repainted if a tenant has been there over 18 months. I blue tape (1.5") along the baseboards. I use the cloths under the wall I'm painting. If I'm really cautious about a carpet, I'll use painters paper (9-12" roll) tied under the blue tape. to give a little more protection. I pull the blue tape about 2-3 hours after the area is painted. If I lay it out right, I don't even have to bend down to pull several walls of blue tape/paper.
For cutting the walls to the ceiling, I use a sash brush and stand on a couple 18" tall 3'x18" aluminum steps (just for cutting). For the rolling, I'm tall enough at 6'3" to gets the whole 8' wall without assistance. I roll the top half about 3' wide then the bottom half then next top, etc moving to the right when possible (right handed) and always try to keep a wet edge.
For any beginners out there, once a paint has started to dry, do not try to "touch-up" anything you think is flawed. It will cause a texture difference that you will see.
Thumbs up for using 18 inch roller. It was a big success for me. I never painted ceiling so can't say anything about it. Also , 9 x 12 feet drop cloth was more flexible than laying plastic sheet. Plastic or paper sheets stick with the feet and move as you walk on them. You can also slip while painting walls around stairs area.
Also, always check with painter's guidelines what type of roller (Polyester or White Dove or other) should be used for the paint type you have picked. I use Sherwin Williams and they recommend Polyester based sleeve for their thicker paints and White Dove for more thin ones.
I just roll doors with a small roller. Dont have to take them off. I find shellac or Bin works better for stains and knots. Dries in 5 minutes.
Looks as good or better then sprayes. Cheaper also.
Agreed, and I no longer mask off the hinges, they are usually pretty tarnished or stained, so I just replace with new after paint job is finished. New ones look 100% better and only a few bucks each.
It's a luxury having an empty room. Really good advice about the correct nap and corner roller. Thank you.
As a professional coatings specialists of 28 years in the industry I found this video highly entertaining. I couldn’t stop laughing at some points. Thank you for the great time. Some of the comments are awesome too. Haha. Made my day.
Nice tips , And i hear that yinzer accent. I’m a 1 man paint crew you’re absolutely right about the 18” rollers the really help. I have 3-4’ long “drywall platforms ” I use instead of stilts only have to move those once in awhile but it’s the same concept, you’re not cutting in then moving a ladder every 16”
Either you can use the tips offered in this video or not. The negative comments are pathetic. This man is sharing a useful skill, take it or leave it. Fkn haters
useful tips would be nice
useful tips are easy stuff, that a novice would have no trouble doing. its not hating if we're pointing out poor advice
I've been on stilts, it's not something you just get on and go. No carpet? no drop clothes, no furniture, who's tips are these for?
A stool or a 4' ladder is pretty ez to get around your not wasting tons of time and its SAFE
Roll the ceiling with a normal 9" roller, same as he did, once done, you need little to no paint to catch any drips and complete the edge of the ceiling. If "his" 9" roller puts excessive paint on the wall your still going to have to run around to catch the excess.
Not to mention now your using 2 different rollers a 9" and an 18" because we know people (homeowners) who are doing it themselves don't have to go out and buy this stuff
He's spraying the doors? Cause everyone has spray equipment and an empty room to paint without fear of over spray.
How foolish of me to critique this video.
@@blartuc2769 Agree 100%. The video is labeled hacks for homeowners. What homeowner is going to have stilts or spray equipment? Better off just hiring a professional instead of investing in either of those items.
Id rather ring a qualified and registered tradesman than do it myself. Less hassle.
Absolutely not! You do not use plastic knives for mudding. You don't use plastic wood on walls. 18" rollers are horrible to use, especially on walls. They are heavy, are hard to feather out edges, and you have to make your cut lines larger to accommodate the larger more cumbersome roller. The clean up time is twice as long and they are expensive. When at a store, you see 9" rollers in abundance for a reason. Sorry, but this guy is a hack.
It is call "idiot society!" Ignore the points you know and learn from the points you don't know.
Thanks for posting the video. It's always interesting to see how someone handles a common trade. It's too bad there are so many haters in the comment section.
R J Serra the haters aren’t exactly hating. Not from what I’m seeing. It benefits the economy and the homeowners to hire professionals. Not to mention the environment when fools are still using oil based material.
-i like 14" rollers...
more like 9" open on one end.
-1" putty knife is best for patching flat surfaces.
Never had need for Corner covers.
I roll mine tight and only hit the area around base and ceiling with brush.
-Oil primer is better than latex on stains but binz shellac is my favorite.
Had to pause the video and rush to the comments as soon as i saw the stilts, i was anticipating some entertaining banter but it doesn't look like anyone is in the mood to make fun (likely cuz the presenter of this vid seems like a nice dude and he did offer some helpful tips)
Gread video. I just learned a better way to cut in wall to ceiling by watching you unload the excess paint on the wall, slant the brush more and use longer sweeping motions.
As for the stilts? Maybe best for circus peformers working part time as painters. 🤣 For us typical folks, a hospital stay won't save much time or money. (However I do admire your ability to navigate on them). Thank you for your tips.
thank you and totally understand the stilts! Those slanted Purdy brushes are excellent. Little pricey but worth it
As we just recently moved into a home that needs updating, I will be doing a great deal of painting. Some of these tips make a lot of sense, and I will be putting them to use soon... Thx...
Wow, good to know. You are brave to use stilts. No moving a ladder. Respect for Painters!
Want a good brush for cutting it? Get the Whizz brush from Lowe's. It's not only angled, it's also beveled. The tip follows where ever the back side of the brush goes. Cuts time significantly.
Very best timesaver I ever used was an electric paint roller.
A pump takes the paint right from a bucket (1 or 5 gal), through the handle, and into a special roller where the paint then comes out and saturates the nap on the roller.
This saves time & your back because you never have to bend down to get more paint. As long as your thumb is on the pump button, you just keep rolling. You can do a whole bedroom in 20 minutes (not including the masking & cutting).
There's also a LOT less dripping because you aren't moving the roller constantly from the wall to the paint pan & back all the time.
Tom Collins....thanks for sharing. Which electronic paint roller brand do you recommend?
@@bigj3339 I don't remember the brand I used. All I remember is it was bought at Lowes for about $100, 10 years ago.
Ex GF got custody of it, so I don't have it to look.
@@tequilacollins thanks for responding!
I use an extension pole with a handle attachment to cut in ceilings.
Very good information. I don't know why anybody would give you a thumbs down. They are probably just jealous that they don't have a channel.
Pick of nap thickness is key. 3/8 thin naps don't carry enough paint to get down the wall. For production, a 3/4 can be used if you use a very lite pressure last pass.
I see a influx of ER room visits from homeowners trying to use professional stilts
Matt Foster 😂😂😂😂
if a normal human being cant balance on a 2 ft stilt that is designed that stably then I think they deserve a visit or two to the ER !!
@@thesage1096 ...the average homeowner isnt going have a month of working with stilts carrying a brush and cut bucket at the same time to be proficient and safe...in 30 years of general contracting I've seen exactly 2 painters ever use stilts...they are used by drywall finishers
When people try to use the bathroom with stilts, they end up in the ER.
@cholak Wow $2K Might as well hire a pro OMG
I use 2step stools put them fairly close together where your cutting in. Use one step over too next. Then reach over and move too next spot you need too cut in. You don't have too get up and down. And easyier than climbing a ladder. Step stools with the handle on the top work best.
This is a much better tip than the stilts. I can't even imagine a homeowner that has little painting experience trying to walk around and cut in with stilts lol.
Invest in a "Mobile step stand". Thank me later
@@SyrupyBeard I use a 2 plank mini scaffold. I paint for a living but check these videos out on occasion to see if there's something new I can learn or a new product I'm not familiar with.
@@billh4185 Stilts seem okay if you're proficient enough with them but not everyone is going to be able to use them. I like the Cotterman 2 step mobile step stand because you can slide it easy and it stays in place once you put pressure on it. Very good invenstment for me 🙂
Thank you, that really helps. I'm a painter from just outside Toronto. I have an airless sprayer too. I have small triangle or pyramids that I use for painter doors but yours are much bigger and bitter and you can stack door on top of each other, that's cool. Thanks again from Canada. Tim
THEY MAKE _STILTS!_ I am so glad I watched this.
lol, so many good tips here. Thank you.
I will take some of these tips for future use, so, THANK YOU!
Thanks for your video - very useful. My tip (if it is indeed a tip) about cutting-in, is to apply the first touch onto the wall in an arc from behind and below the point where you want to join onto the last swipe and keep the paint brush bristles really pressed against the wall - that way you don't have too much paint (blobby) and the bristles absorb any micro movements of an unsteady hand which is desperately trying to "keep a straight line".
1st thing I see, as a painter with 35 yrs experience, the Purdy roller system is a screw on roller head. I recommend using the Wooster roller pole system. It Lockes the roller to the pole and won't come loose while rolling. Purdy, or any other screw on heads will come loose.
I can do very good painting work without tarps and with furniture still in the room. I painted a few neighbors and my homes whole insides. Ppl are always shocked that i work so fast but still so clean and organized while doing so. Then again, im a artist and just have very steady hands. One guy said i paint like im doing surgery
Perfect timing! I'm about to start painting rooms in a couple of weeks. Thanks!
Me too!
I’m a beginner, and was just searching around. This is an excellent video and I really appreciate you taking the time to share all this knowledge! Great job and good luck with your channel!
Hey how’s the painting business going? I’m looking to start myself just wondering if it’s worth it?
I have, and have used and 18” roller once, once. You do not realize the weight until after a room and the next day you will feel it. 5 gallon bucket and pair screen with a normal roller and you will be good to go and, I think much faster. As you can move the bucket near you when needed with less fuss and mess.
But that is my opinion.
No way in hell a 9" roller is faster than an 18" roller.
Thankyou so much for explaining about having the right nap length on rollers and also using the roller with the nap right to the edge. That is helpful. Thanks.
This video came right on time! Thank you😊😊😊
awesome!! Sounds like you have some painting projects in the future 😊
great tips except for the stilts (paint+ newbie stilt walkers = disaster) and the plastic. The amount of plastic waste generated from painting one room is highly irresponsible. I use old sheets and canvas dropcloths which I have reused multiple times. Just allow then to dry completely and put them away and you can reuse them the next time you paint.
Amen to the plastic.... old worn out bed sheets work just fine and are much more environmentally friendly.
If possible, doors can be set up in garage. Drape off garage like you would drape off as if you were painting the ceiling, basically setting up a shooting booth. Using Free 5 gallon stir sticks, stand doors up at an angle, tacking stir sticks to top of one side of door, one next to another. Simply space enough to spray them standing up.
I knew running away from home and joining the circus was a good idea! I'm great on stilts and juggling! Winning!
As this is supposed to be aimed at homeowners I am surprised (to say the least!) to see stilts on the list, the potential for a disaster is extremely high, just buy a decent hop-up and a ladder of some sort that will fulfil your needs, also a pro spray set up ain't cheap either, doors can easily be painted in-situ using a four-inch roller and a decent brush, no need to take them off, no need to spray.
Plastic wood filler on a wall, why? There are many good filling compounds out there made specifically for drywall. Using an 18" roller on walls in an average size room makes no sense to me at all, then I see you use a 9 inch on the ceiling, personally, I would swap that around and use the 18" on the ceiling and the 9" on the walls. When cutting in use a brush and a 4-inch roller to eliminate any brush marks you may leave behind, make sure you use the same nap of roller sleeve as the one you use for the rest of the walls.
Thank you for the tips! Very well done video!
Great tips...the STILTS cost $150 or so but .... AND take notes while watching this so you have your shopping list ready at Hardware store.
For tuff stains the best blocker is white pigmented shellac primer
So many useful tips as always!! I would of never thought of or used that 18" roller. That sucka was cool looking. Hoping all is well guys, keep the videos coming & Dirty Jersey out!!
thanks buddy! Hope you had a great weekend 👍🏼
I'm a confirmed DIY'er, but those stilts scare the heck out of me. I can just visualize broken bones all over the place! lol
green byrd all those guys with big bellies should never attempt doing the stilts .for .they might be out of balance even before they put them on.....
@@hermanduke9051 True!😂😂
@Jacques Matteo de Lusignan You must have great coordination & balancing skills. Go for it!😃
@Jacques Matteo de Lusignan I'll take your word for it; but as for me, I'll have to pass on the stilts.
Stilts--no good for me, sometimes I resemble Chevy Chase👍👍
There is an attachment for roller, extention handles that will hold a paint brush. But it takes some skill to cut in without hitting the ceiling. Keeps your feet on the floor and saves so much time by not climbing up and down ladders.
I tried that for one pass, and ditched it. You really have to get your face up there and close when cutting in, and hold that brush steady, like a pencil. Cutting in using an extension will work, but will have very poor results, such as crooked lines, runs, etc.
@@RobertLinthicum Like I said, it takes practice. I get very good results, but I've been doing it for years.
thanks for the video... let save this somewhere and use/re-watch it when needs.
Us old folks have balance issues so I wouldn't even consider using stilts. haha
100%
Thanks for the great tips. Much appreciated :)
I'm on a very cheap low budget so I used a small roller to paint, than I started with cheap paint before covering with expensive. It is hard to use very cheap paint, it doesn't cover much so you need to do it 5x. So I realized better use the expensive because I only need to put one or 2coats my arms will not sore. And everytime I stop, I put my roller in a bucket of water soak it so it won't dry. I'm painting concrete walls. It saves me from using so many rollers. Same with thinner for enamel so that I can reuse roller. Weathergard is really thick and good. Elastomeric coats well.
Great tips, I learned a lot. I'm a moderate professional. Not sure the stilts would work for me at 5'8 but I do like the rolling light weight painter scaffolds. You can just pull yourself along as needed without the up and down.
Paint needs to go on like one continuous sheet. So fast is essential.
You are pushing a bead of paint, for straight lines, keep in mind the physics of what's happening.
Once the sheet is applied going any direction go over it in one direction either up or down ,while it's still wet. It creates a uniform surface reflection without "flash".
I see people pressing the paint loaded roller far too hard against the hard wall surface and what it does is cause super uneven coats of paint because they are stretching out paint. Most people dont realize that by rolling ut on the wall lightly, the roller is doing the job petfectly. These people go at it so hard they end up wearing themselves out quickly. Lol
I cut everything first then roll.
too slow....always roll the first coat first.
@@percys9427 roll, cut, cut, roll. You're right, it's way faster.
That corner roller wow I'm gonna use that it's new to me
Great cut-in tip! I couldn’t figure out why I kept screwing up with a glob here and there. Thanks so much. I do feel we should be using less rather than more plastic, and maybe just pulling the drop cloth up right away in case of an accident. But a great, short, straight-to-the-point video!
I can fix just about anything but I HATE painting. Never have like it. Good video.
Thank you
Free supplies are the key especially when it makes it easier and faster to boot.
Use 1/2" nap for walls..not 3/8"..or you will wear your self out. Walls are usually not level and have dips from where joints were mudded. It's easier to use 1/2" nap rollers and just roll out any excess paint that the thicker nap holds.
Same for ceilings.
I have found I get skippers with 3/8" nap rollers.
I use 5/8 " nap for textured ceilings..same principle as stated earlier.
Just need to be careful not to press too hard when you first apply roller to wall or ceiling so you don't flip the paint off everywhere..you won't have to dip the roller as often either.
Hope this helps on your paint jobs.
I use 1/2 inch as well. 3/8 doesn't ever seem to do the trick
Great tips, and a nice clear voice with a smile. Well done sir.
Hi mike great video.I have used most of your suggestions over the years.The idea of using any plastic to protect floors is not good .The paint drips stay wet for a long time .so are often carried to unprotected surfaces. Plastic is only good to protect furniture.construction paper or good cotton dust sheets are the way to go .Regards
giuseppe fusciardi just roll your carpet to middle of room,!
Use several layers of dust sheets to prevent seep through, or add newspaper.
Thank you so so much! All great info, easy to understand, and nothing unnecessary. We have owned a home and painted rooms many times now. We have used the plaster and the cutting in techniques, but all the other tips were new and I feel so relieved to find some great ways to make a big upcoming paint job much more efficient. Right now, I need to scan your other content! What additional magic home owner tips have you been so generous to share?!?! Thanks again! Stay well.
Thanks the advice on the roller and filler.
Odd you'd brush away from the wet edge while cutting in....always brush into the wet edge lifting slightly to avoid brush marks
you only get brush marks if you press heavy handed, and if professional you go as close as you can with your roller to or along the edge to cover alledged brush marks
@@deanob1982 ..maintaining a wet edge and brushing into it is paint apprenticeship 101 you won't have to screw around trying to hide them with a roller ..never start a brush stroke in wet paint and brush away from it...i don't care how light your hand is or how long you've painted..you'll see it
@@mattf49006 suppose everyone has thier own hints tips and tricks,, mine works for moi,, 45 years experience
@@deanob1982 fair enough..however ive found it easier to do a job correctly the first go around than to do it twice to cover up the mistakes...adios
@@mattf49006 same i dont get mistakes ;) amigo
You should always buckle the leg straps 1st if you fall it can snap your ankle like a twig
Hacks that's crazy statement tips love the 18 in rollers
I've used DAP white tub n tile caulk (small hand held tube) many times to fill small nail holes and even gaps/cracks around window trim and sills. It's super easy to apply and uses water for cleanup. Never any sanding required and no painting required on light or white walls.
I use these stilts to plaster some ceiling they take a lot of getting used to
Tip: DON'T buy a house with cathedral ceilings and DON'T agree to paint somebody else's house with cathedral ceilings. You were brave to use the stilts. This guy could go from house painter to circus performer. : )
Stilts are dangerous af unless you know what you're doing.
ERs make good money from people learning how to use them. 😀😁 Not much efficiency when you're laid up injured and out of commission.
As a decorater i wouldnt recommend anything his showing in this. Dont use wood filler on plastered walls they take more coats to cover and harder to rub down just use easy fill. Cut your ceiling in with a brush and rad roller with a pair of steps dont be lazy and use a 12" roller. I use long pile and back roll it till paint is flat. And doors can be rolled and layed of with a brush.
true..I do the same
I agree! Why is he using wood filler on a wall? 🥴
Stick to decorating
These all seemed like reasonable time saving practices to me. If they don't work for you, so be it.
- Former pro painter
Just started a new job at an old hotel and it has plenty of carpets. As this is early-stage I have advised the owner to cover them with plastic film to keep them clean but he has refused straight away. Can't wait to see how carpets gonna look like after plasterers finish their job 😁
I really appreciated the corner roller info. The stilts looking fun.
No way am I getting up on stilts with a can of paint in my hand!
And I will not have stilts in my hand while standing on cans of paint.
I don't need the silts. I can't justify the cost, unless I'm going to help paint all my neighbors homes, too😉
@@caroll6261 and they pay you!
The only painting hack I need is to pay a painter, I go to the store, come back home and it's done. That's my hack.
And we thank you for the work.
@@donnash5813 And I thank you for doing it 😂.
We thank you for the work and the next painters in line will thank you also. It’s much nicer to work behind a clean professional that used the proper material for the substrates as well as did a clean job.
great advice . am an amateur painter who only paints my own home . i can say absolutely no european in the world can paint as neat as me . maybe because am an artist , but am actually an anaesthesiologist
A good multipurpose primer is pva. Works on wood and drywall if all exsisting paint is latex. Glidden makes a product called Grip Lock that works with stains/smoke.
I did the job even faster by watching this at 2X speed!
No!!++++
That brush had its days. 😂
Brushes get better with age as the bristles wear thinner and it paints smoother.
Graham Campbell 👎
Doesn’t work good with dried up paint on them. Gotta wire brush them and clean them good.
Thank you, I picked up on several tips. And by the way, you can stack even higher than 4 high with stak-Racks with of course additional purchases or 1 large size bulk purchase. This way you can limit how much space you need to a minimum by stacking even higher than 4 if needed. I think one can go at least 7 high & the product will hold all ok. I've used stack-Racks & they work great!
You have the same stilts as I do. I hate the up and down of using ladders when I paint. NOT safe if you're missing any strap. Cheap and easy to install new ones!