I hope your Seeburg 1000 is up and running after the years have passed. I am just starting on a BMS project, just like yours. I have two BMC machines, the uglier sibling to your machine, and found a few useful points while servicing... That coupling had slipped down on mine, so it rattled against the top of the motor. I loosened those two Frankenstein bolts sticking out of the coupling with a tiny Allen key in each end and slid it back up and that solved the problem. For the wheels, I used generous amounts of rubber renew liquid, acetone, IPA, and then I finally took the wheels out and chucked them in my lathe and used a clean single cut mill smooth file to re face them. It did the trick. Never turn off the power with an external switch-this will leave the capstan pressed into the rubber and give you a new divot, and another warble to your sound.
This project actually ground to a halt and has been in storage since this footage was shot. With current events though I've pulled the bins out of storage and am hoping to finish this up. I put so much time into the amplifier restoration that the remaining mechanical bits can't be that difficult to sort out. I do have rubber renew, so I think I left off with looking into a new coupling for the motor and shaft. Was thinking a spider coupler to help with vibration. Good tip on turning it off properly too, thanks for the tips!
I’ll drop you a note at your email, it seems we are in a similar phase with our machines. I might have a question or two about that amp section, and I might have a few answers about the mechanical part.
if you take some light sandpaper and just go over the rubber, it might help, they get glazed over form use and time but sometimes the sandpaper will give you fresh rubber and more grip. but. the best option would be to have them redone. I had mine done and was 100.00 each wheel
I hope your Seeburg 1000 is up and running after the years have passed. I am just starting on a BMS project, just like yours. I have two BMC machines, the uglier sibling to your machine, and found a few useful points while servicing... That coupling had slipped down on mine, so it rattled against the top of the motor. I loosened those two Frankenstein bolts sticking out of the coupling with a tiny Allen key in each end and slid it back up and that solved the problem. For the wheels, I used generous amounts of rubber renew liquid, acetone, IPA, and then I finally took the wheels out and chucked them in my lathe and used a clean single cut mill smooth file to re face them. It did the trick. Never turn off the power with an external switch-this will leave the capstan pressed into the rubber and give you a new divot, and another warble to your sound.
This project actually ground to a halt and has been in storage since this footage was shot. With current events though I've pulled the bins out of storage and am hoping to finish this up. I put so much time into the amplifier restoration that the remaining mechanical bits can't be that difficult to sort out. I do have rubber renew, so I think I left off with looking into a new coupling for the motor and shaft. Was thinking a spider coupler to help with vibration. Good tip on turning it off properly too, thanks for the tips!
I’ll drop you a note at your email, it seems we are in a similar phase with our machines. I might have a question or two about that amp section, and I might have a few answers about the mechanical part.
@@TadTadd Please do, happy to help and gain some traction myself in getting this thing back to life!
if you take some light sandpaper and just go over the rubber, it might help, they get glazed over form use and time but sometimes the sandpaper will give you fresh rubber and more grip. but. the best option would be to have them redone. I had mine done and was 100.00 each wheel