Its nice to see you fixed that issue, it gives me hope lol No codes but gauges don't lie, at idle pedal is at 17% and TPS at 4% it holds around 700-710 rpm when warm. Driving I mash the pedal it reads 90% and TPS goes from 4% to 62% instant then it ramps up slowly and reaches peak at 78% right at shift point. 2nd and 3rd are 90% pedal and 78% TPS. When it shifts from 3rd at max rpm into fourth..... TPS goes down to 70% lol
Hi bud, I have the weirdest problem! I went to change the air filter and thought to check and clean the throttle body butterfly. It was fully open which I thought was strange as had no real issues, I mean I have thought the car was a little sluggish on acceleration (delayed) and thought maybe my EGR choking. I always put good quality treatment into fuel and try different types so thought maybe not so... Lately had a little stuttering at the first few lights after leaving the house first thing but not pulling off the drive? My throttle body was fully open with engine off, I sprayed it and wiped but was pretty clean... as you could wish for, I sprayed in with engine running spurts of spray at a time but no movement with butterfly? I had my naibours grandchild come with half decent scan tool tablet a month or two earlier to check car after I gave him a toe and he said that there was no codes, which he thought was suprising. I dont know if he knows fully whats wha but he mentioned my pedal showing depressed 19% ?? he didnt start the car with scan tool plugged in which I asked and said that I thought you could but he said not with his tool. He said he wiped the car for any codes anyhows. Oh I did have a funny few weeks with my battery dying a while back and got that checked but came back fine (just needs a charge so I bought a smart charger and let it do its thing but it kept dying on me and then I put the battery on a full repair charge and its been fine since plus i've kept car in a lower gear to charge up more as my brother said I was driving like a pussy... trying to save miliage 😂 Any idea bud why my butterfly is full open with no real issue on idle or revs going high and once the car warms up all other issues apart from sluggish accelorator dissapear! oh and I disconnected the battery a few times to charge so I assume the sensor would have reset as ive heard on another vid to disconect the negative. I have been worried why my surpentine/alternator belt seems slightly worn on the outside but looks great on the ribbed inside? I thought maybe my issues was the belt tensioner or idle pulley but strange how the black is wearing off on the outside and all looked good with no movement on the tensioner. I did hear the other night late on when it was quiet a little rythmic chirp ever so quiet which i've not heard before which makes me think the idle pulley but cant make head way with the throttle body butterly fully open?
Hello I have dodge charger 2009 , and I got same issue since weeks I went to the garage the warning light it was fixed for 1 month and then it happened again , I don’t what to do , please I need your help , here in Dubai the garages are useless !!!
depending on the car. You can on some models turn the key on and off without starting twice then start the car. It may take a few minutes but it will work without a scan tool. A good scan tool can show the voltages through the throttle.
Using the factory level scan tool function to relearn the throttle angle values is very important. Some will get away without it, but it's an important part of the process.
I replaced the throttle body this past weekend and still getting red flashing lighting bolt, today it started flashing and started loosing power when it finally did recover it started running rough so I pulled in gas station turned off when I cranked it up no lights and drove home with no issues what can I do now to keep the light from coming on and stop the struggling?
Elder P Smith! What a wonderful missionary you were... I miss you my friend!
Long time! Miss you too!
Its nice to see you fixed that issue, it gives me hope lol No codes but gauges don't lie, at idle pedal is at 17% and TPS at 4% it holds around 700-710 rpm when warm. Driving I mash the pedal it reads 90% and TPS goes from 4% to 62% instant then it ramps up slowly and reaches peak at 78% right at shift point. 2nd and 3rd are 90% pedal and 78% TPS. When it shifts from 3rd at max rpm into fourth..... TPS goes down to 70% lol
Hi bud, I have the weirdest problem! I went to change the air filter and thought to check and clean the throttle body butterfly. It was fully open which I thought was strange as had no real issues, I mean I have thought the car was a little sluggish on acceleration (delayed) and thought maybe my EGR choking. I always put good quality treatment into fuel and try different types so thought maybe not so... Lately had a little stuttering at the first few lights after leaving the house first thing but not pulling off the drive?
My throttle body was fully open with engine off, I sprayed it and wiped but was pretty clean... as you could wish for, I sprayed in with engine running spurts of spray at a time but no movement with butterfly?
I had my naibours grandchild come with half decent scan tool tablet a month or two earlier to check car after I gave him a toe and he said that there was no codes, which he thought was suprising. I dont know if he knows fully whats wha but he mentioned my pedal showing depressed 19% ?? he didnt start the car with scan tool plugged in which I asked and said that I thought you could but he said not with his tool. He said he wiped the car for any codes anyhows. Oh I did have a funny few weeks with my battery dying a while back and got that checked but came back fine (just needs a charge so I bought a smart charger and let it do its thing but it kept dying on me and then I put the battery on a full repair charge and its been fine since plus i've kept car in a lower gear to charge up more as my brother said I was driving like a pussy... trying to save miliage 😂 Any idea bud why my butterfly is full open with no real issue on idle or revs going high and once the car warms up all other issues apart from sluggish accelorator dissapear! oh and I disconnected the battery a few times to charge so I assume the sensor would have reset as ive heard on another vid to disconect the negative.
I have been worried why my surpentine/alternator belt seems slightly worn on the outside but looks great on the ribbed inside? I thought maybe my issues was the belt tensioner or idle pulley but strange how the black is wearing off on the outside and all looked good with no movement on the tensioner. I did hear the other night late on when it was quiet a little rythmic chirp ever so quiet which i've not heard before which makes me think the idle pulley but cant make head way with the throttle body butterly fully open?
What scan tool are you using? Thx
Do you need the scanner tool or can you js change the thingy and it be fixed
Hello I have dodge charger 2009 , and I got same issue since weeks I went to the garage the warning light it was fixed for 1 month and then it happened again , I don’t what to do , please I need your help , here in Dubai the garages are useless !!!
It sounds like you likely need a throttle body and the correct learn procedure using a scan tool.
Can one replace without being a technician or having special equipment
depending on the car. You can on some models turn the key on and off without starting twice then start the car. It may take a few minutes but it will work without a scan tool. A good scan tool can show the voltages through the throttle.
So for my 2008 jeep I would need the scan thing to reset it cause I replaced but I still can’t drive
Using the factory level scan tool function to relearn the throttle angle values is very important. Some will get away without it, but it's an important part of the process.
I replaced the throttle body this past weekend and still getting red flashing lighting bolt, today it started flashing and started loosing power when it finally did recover it started running rough so I pulled in gas station turned off when I cranked it up no lights and drove home with no issues what can I do now to keep the light from coming on and stop the struggling?
In most cases, going through the scan tool guided process of relearning the correct throttle angles is required to not have a returning issue.
Is that the Duralast throttle body you replaced it with?
I don't recall if it was a Dura last. I'm fairly sure it was an aftermarket part though, so likely equivalent.
Hi My jeep library has the light bolt and I just changed the ecm do u think I need to change the throttle
It's possible, but you need to do further diagnosis.
Is this the same engine that the ram 1500s ecodiesel 3.0 turbodiesel have?
No.
To bad you didn't just clean it .
Cleaning it would not have worked at all. The throttle assembly had to be replaced. The position sensor was bad