How to Bleed and Fill Engine Cooling System | BMW E39 540i
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2020
- Today I’m bleeding the engine cooling system on my 2000 BMW 540i. I recently replaced the thermostat, meaning I introduced unwanted air into the system when I sealed everything up. This procedure will help extract the air and replace it with coolant so the engine doesn't overheat.
This procedure is for a 2000 BMW 540i, which is fitted with the 4.4L V8 M62 Engine. BMW used this engine across a couple of different vehicles, including the 1998-2003 540i (E39), 1999-2001 740i (E38), and the 1999-2003 X5 (E53). There are even some non-BMW vehicles with this engine including the 2000-2004 Morgan Aero 8, and 2002-2005 Range Rover (L322).
BMW's coolant does not come premixed so distilled water is needed to dilute the mixture to the suggested 50/50 ratio. I suggest ordering the coolant online from Amazon, ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, or wherever you can find the best deal. After bleeding the air from the system, my expansion tank was slightly overfilled as evidenced by the fluid level bobber protruding a couple inches beyond the max fill position. BMW expansion tanks are notorious for failing, so I used a fluid extractor to bring the level down and prevent the system from over-pressurizing. If you don't have a fluid extractor, you can achieve the same result by using a Turkey baster and a thin hose to remove some coolant. The diagram next to the expansion tank shows that the system is full when the fluid level bobber is even with the rim of the tank. The video's thumbnail shows the what this looks like. Above this position and you'll need to remove fluid. Below this position and you'll need to add fluid.
Overall, this is an easy repair that will definitely take less than an hour to complete. Please leave a comment if you have any questions, thanks for watching!
Parts:
1. BMW Antifreeze www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-b...
2. Distilled Water
Tools:
1. Phillips head screwdriver
2. Fluid extractor / Turkey baster + thin hose
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Tire Kickers, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Tire Kickers assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Tire Kickers recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Tire Kickers, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Tire Kickers. - Авто та транспорт
Very good video,thanks for your video
Very great and informative video thank you very much sir.
Happy to help!
Why was the intake tube removed to begin with?
I just replaced my tank, the bobber inside was ip to the top but did mot see coolant in under bleeder screw?
How much coolant does fit in the system i just changed my expansiontank filled it and stopped when the red stick came up. After driving for 1 hour i opened the tank and the coolant fluid had dropped alot.
Do I have to remove the intake hose? Or was that just because you had it off beforehand?
That was just being extra there’s 0 need if you’re just bleeding the system
Does the engine need to be running when checking the coolant level? Or does the engine just has to be cold
Is it right when u bleed the system u leave the engine off ? The thermostat will be closed when the engine off
Is this why it keeps leaking from reservoir
Trying to bleed my 540 after some tries with other popular methods. So doesn't filling the expansion tank to the top like that leave no space for the air to expand? And I've seen some similar methods that also tell you to, with the engine running, open the bleed screw after bringing the car to temp until bubble-free coolant runs. Is that needed? And should you drive the car to heat up to like 80-90c only? or full operating temp at like 108c? Sorry for all the questions! Great vid.
Good questions Chadd! I've used this method to bleed the coolant system a couple of times without issues. My understanding is that even after bleeding the system, there will still be some air trapped that the excess coolant will replace. I let the car get up to operating temp and then park the car overnight to check the fluid level in the morning. If there's too much, I'll remove some using that fluid extractor.
I've seen the method that works with the engine running too. I'm sure it will do the same thing (maybe a little faster) and you probably wouldn't be running the engine long enough for it to get to operating temp so there shouldn't be any risk going that route. Let me know if you choose to do the engine on method!
Tire Kickers Awesome sounds good, tried your method today now just waiting for the car to cool to check levels and probably remove some excess coolant. When I was running the car in the driveway however, coolant was dripping from the cap the whole time as I assume maybe I put in too much coolant? So there was no space for the coolant to expand. Not sure if that is normal in this process though. I Let the car run to 80c
@Chadd Yuan I had a problem one time where the oring on the bleed screw was allowing coolant to leak out when the car was at operating temp and would make a hissing noise. Sounds like it’s possible that there may have been too much coolant, but as long as you remove the excess you should be good. And then keep an eye on your fluid level after a couple of drives to make sure your everything’s performing correctly. Sometimes it requires a bit of a finesse, but I think you’re on the right track!
Tire Kickers Hey sorry just had an update question. So taking another host with this method, i’ve done 3 30 min sessions roughly following the bleeding procedure for the last few days without starting the car but just trying to get the air out. But i’m still getting bubbles and just wondering if it’s possible to have this much air in the system? Here’s a link to a vid of the bubbles i’m taking about even after 3 days of filling, squeezing the hoses for bubbles, filling, etc... By the way, loving the e39 LS swap vids! Here’s the link: ua-cam.com/video/9SPCPfjS7lY/v-deo.html
Chadd Yuan I took a look at your video and asked for input from some other folks that know E39s well. We recommend that if you're concerned about the air bubbles that are still escaping, try putting the front of the car on jack stands, seal the cooling system, then start the car and let it get to operating temp. This will ensure that the thermostat opens so the coolant can circulate, and the air bubbles should rise to the highest point in the vehicle which, in this scenario, is your bleed screw. Let your engine cool back down before you check the fluid level, but doing this should help get rid of whatever air is left. You can do the bleeding procedure afterwards if you want to double check, but I'd imagine there's not enough air in the system to give you serious overheating concerns as long as everything is functioning properly. Glad you're enjoying the LS Swap videos, they've been fun to make!
Um turning the heat on at the beginning isn’t going to do anything if the car is off, the water pump isn’t pushing anything unless the engine is on. and they’re won’t be enough heat to keep the coolant flowing through the system at first either
This car has an electric auxiliary water pump that circulates coolant with the engine off. High heat with low fan ensures the heater valves are open so that the entire system is flowing for bleeding purposes.
@@jasoncobb2067 I made that comment a year ago, I’m aware
2 bleeder screws ..
theres only one screw on this model
Here’s a procedure for dual bleeders… for future reference, or those who need it:
ua-cam.com/video/M8GhaXbGBYk/v-deo.html