Good job Robbo! Do you realise just how many apprentices you have? You are just what the U.K's young chippies need mate. Keep on keepin' it real mate! I hear your name mentioned all the time!
These older style, on site videos are an absolute treat to be watching again (more regularly!) thanks for sharing as always Robin, always so much in each video
Yet another little template Robin! I use them aswell,makes things easily repeatable and as you say eliminates human error. Excellent work again thankyou 👍👍
Robin is such a professional, even calling his saw by its correct name, a circular saw, not a skilsaw as most people refer to it as. Not a lot of guys bed down their plates in Ireland anymore. Most of us i think use a double plate approach. So we level and screw down the first plate (4×2 or 6x2) with a layer of damp course between it and the block work ,then we screw the next board on top of that alternating the joints so no need for halving joints. I tend to fit the wall plate 1/2" forward of the inside of the block work so i can fit a strip of plasterboard to the inside of the wall plate after the roof is on. This brings the walplate back plum with the inside of the wall and can be sand and cement after. I dont like to sand and cement straight to the timber wall plate as i find it cracks as the timber moves seasonally.
I'm the same, I use a double plate and stagger the joints. I temporarily fix them with tapcons. Then when I'm happy with parallel, square and level I put in some express anchor's. I put in the tie down straps then. Keeping the plates a 1/2" in is a good idea, 👍💪💪🔨🇮🇪🇮🇪
Thanks for posting your work and taking the time to do it and show others how you work . Would ignore your critic's, until they post how they do it and let everyone compare 😮😂
Thanks for the tips. Quality as always. Not needed by Robin but when I am nervous about repeated work holding I frequently screw some chogs or similar, can even add a wedge to tap in if you want really secure. Quicker than clamps, repeatable, secure.
For cutting the half joints, a jig that both holds the work and provides more width to ensure the rip cut is square would be a great idea for those of us that don't have Robin's experience.
The tool technology has made it so fast to half lap. I remember having to mark, make lots of cross cuts and then tap an estwing hatchet into the end grain. You could get it quite clean accurate but it took ages. Thanks for making these videos.
Usually its the brickies job to bed on the plates but over many years, myself, of building houses and extensions I understand completely why you are doing this yourself and especially as its you that will be pitching this roof. No disrespect is aimed at brickies in this comment😎😲
Just made a couple of garden gates with half lap joints. Have always done the multiple saw cuts & bash them out with the hammer & then spend ages cleaning it out with a chisel. Why have I never thought of doing it this way?! Thanks for the tip 👍🏼
Also love these detail video for learning. As keen diy'er doing a self build, I own a laser leve/receiverl, but not quite understanding how you were checking the wall plate heights with the receiver sat on top with no ruler. Did you first check the inner leaf block work to find the highest point, then add the thickness of the timber wall plate, plus mortar bed, then use this as a datum to set the laser level so it was perfect at this height with the receiver. Then, from there, all you had to do was sit the receiver base on the wall plate, and it would say whether it needed to be bedded up or down as you work round? I might need to watch again. (Edit, think i answered my own question)
Hi robin, I’m not a carpenter but love watching you work, can I please ask why you bed down the wall plate with mortar then go on to put ties in, is it for the discrepancy in brickwork, why not pack and fill then mechanically fix the wall plate down, if it is for discrepancy why not factor that in when cutting the roof, it’s not going to be that far out and as long as the roof looks ok / straight it’s not putting the roofers out, thank you
I'm at exact same stage. Builder says no need for cavity tray over lintels at wall tops as its well under the roof overhangs. Inclined to agree, rain can't go upwards...
Generally Building control like to see trays in all instances above lintels as good practice. Realistically, it's usually not needed. These are thermally broken lintels and have exposed insulation so here it works as a barrier for potential moisture passing through a lintel more effectively.
Lovely video Robin. Is it always practiced to sand/cement the wall plate down these days? Or is there a depending factor as to why it’s done here? Cheers
The sand and cement is to transfer loads better and also get the levels perfectly set, it has been done here for many centuries, some of the oldest properties we work on from 17th and 18th centuries have a bedded plate albeit sand and lime or similar
I'd have thought you'd be using one of those fancy Mafell groove-cutting machines for your overlaps Robin, you could bash them out in a fraction of the time with one of those badbois!
Great rip for cutting shoulder joints freehand. Not clear how you ensured the wall plates were at 90 degrees ? Maybe you could make a follow-on video for wall plates and roof framing where the existing walls are not square.
Does a masonry ground floor give better damp characteristics than stick framing directly onto the footings? I've lived in a lot of older, damp houses. When I build my own, I want to avoid any risk of dampness as much as I can.
Not a criticism just a genuine question. Across the pond when they do a "mudsill" they use a sill sealer which is like a dpc underneath they're plates. Is there any reason we don't do that in the uk that you can think of? Thanks Robin
I can never understand why you have to bed on your wall plates in England. Can the bricky not manage to put the blocks on at the right high? Iv never done that in scotland. The bricky has the top of the wallplate spot on. We just drill the wallplate and fix it into the block with anchor fixings.
The internal skin of blockwork runs within a lintel. So linels often sit higher than the blockwork. Mortar bed helps to level it all out on a new course and spreads load more evenly.
I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on it, I seen it on a hilti america video a few months ago and thought it looked the part. Think it's august/September it is out here so not long to wait.
Completely different [or mostly] to how we do it in Canada. We wouldn't bother with half lap joints, and the plates have to be bolted to the block walls, no cement underneath. I'm not saying one way is wrong or right, it's just different.
The receiver is a Huepar lr6rg. It's nothing fancy. One of the cheaper receivers on the market but works well! The holder is questionable quality though!
Very interesting again! Check out ‘how to cut hip rafters ‘ skill builder - 4yrs ago , an awesome insight into how a simple roof is done , obviously by the man himself, Robin Clevett, ! Been following Robinfor years, never get bored!!
Good job Robbo! Do you realise just how many apprentices you have? You are just what the U.K's young chippies need mate. Keep on keepin' it real mate! I hear your name mentioned all the time!
Thank you!! i really want to just share my knowledge especially to the new entrants into our industry!!
These older style, on site videos are an absolute treat to be watching again (more regularly!) thanks for sharing as always Robin, always so much in each video
Yet another little template Robin! I use them aswell,makes things easily repeatable and as you say eliminates human error. Excellent work again thankyou 👍👍
Robin is such a professional, even calling his saw by its correct name, a circular saw, not a skilsaw as most people refer to it as.
Not a lot of guys bed down their plates in Ireland anymore. Most of us i think use a double plate approach. So we level and screw down the first plate (4×2 or 6x2) with a layer of damp course between it and the block work ,then we screw the next board on top of that alternating the joints so no need for halving joints.
I tend to fit the wall plate 1/2" forward of the inside of the block work so i can fit a strip of plasterboard to the inside of the wall plate after the roof is on. This brings the walplate back plum with the inside of the wall and can be sand and cement after. I dont like to sand and cement straight to the timber wall plate as i find it cracks as the timber moves seasonally.
Hi Dan, Thats a good move with the allowance for the plaster board!! thanks for watching and supporting my channel!!!
I'm the same, I use a double plate and stagger the joints. I temporarily fix them with tapcons. Then when I'm happy with parallel, square and level I put in some express anchor's. I put in the tie down straps then. Keeping the plates a 1/2" in is a good idea, 👍💪💪🔨🇮🇪🇮🇪
Hi, what are tapcons? Cheers
@@danthechippie4439 Tapcons are concrete screws, 💪🔨🇮🇪🇮🇪
As a non-tradesman, can you explain the pros and cons of both approaches? Is the end product effectively the same?
A dream job with quality tradesmen and quality work
Thanks for posting your work and taking the time to do it and show others how you work .
Would ignore your critic's, until they post how they do it and let everyone compare 😮😂
Cheers James
When you're doing your side cuts, you can clamp them all together on their sides, and that will give you a more stable saw. 👍
Thanks for the tips. Quality as always.
Not needed by Robin but when I am nervous about repeated work holding I frequently screw some chogs or similar, can even add a wedge to tap in if you want really secure. Quicker than clamps, repeatable, secure.
For cutting the half joints, a jig that both holds the work and provides more width to ensure the rip cut is square would be a great idea for those of us that don't have Robin's experience.
The tool technology has made it so fast to half lap. I remember having to mark, make lots of cross cuts and then tap an estwing hatchet into the end grain. You could get it quite clean accurate but it took ages. Thanks for making these videos.
Usually its the brickies job to bed on the plates but over many years, myself, of building houses and extensions I understand completely why you are doing this yourself and especially as its you that will be pitching this roof. No disrespect is aimed at brickies in this comment😎😲
Love the caveat "I've been doing this for 37 years"
You make it look so easy but it's anything but for a novice 👍
hi robin ,i can see this is going to be another epic build looking forward to further episodes.........quality at its best good on you
Just made a couple of garden gates with half lap joints. Have always done the multiple saw cuts & bash them out with the hammer & then spend ages cleaning it out with a chisel. Why have I never thought of doing it this way?! Thanks for the tip 👍🏼
Yet another great example of a job well done. Really nice to see you out on site again Robin! 😃
Thank you kindly!
Looking forward to seeing more of this build Robin, brilliant work as ever.
Lovely as always top job will be watching the roof being placed and infilled interesting 👍
Would never ever dare to do a cut like that… Great craftsmanship!
Thank you Robin for your time.
Just found your channel Robin. Great stuff, thank you.
Welcome!
Not too shabby - that.
👍
Love your videos robin, great content as always, learning lots!
Glad you like them!
I still use a water level when bedding on wall plates in that kind of situation. Fix some battens around the room and mark off.
Bloody brilliant as always
Thanks Robin!
Another great video 👍❤️🏴
Glad you enjoyed it
to be fair robin , it helps the brickies did a great job in the first place
Also love these detail video for learning.
As keen diy'er doing a self build, I own a laser leve/receiverl, but not quite understanding how you were checking the wall plate heights with the receiver sat on top with no ruler.
Did you first check the inner leaf block work to find the highest point, then add the thickness of the timber wall plate, plus mortar bed, then use this as a datum to set the laser level so it was perfect at this height with the receiver.
Then, from there, all you had to do was sit the receiver base on the wall plate, and it would say whether it needed to be bedded up or down as you work round?
I might need to watch again.
(Edit, think i answered my own question)
Good tip on the halving 👍
Glad you like it
Nice Work! Quality workmanship as always!
I appreciate that
thanks Robin , as usually on the top !
My pleasure!
Chippie- established on Olympic champions, rough riders of the world and top class joiners
Wish these films were longer.
Love the Fonzarelli hammer tap 😎
Artist at work😊
Hi robin, I’m not a carpenter but love watching you work, can I please ask why you bed down the wall plate with mortar then go on to put ties in, is it for the discrepancy in brickwork, why not pack and fill then mechanically fix the wall plate down, if it is for discrepancy why not factor that in when cutting the roof, it’s not going to be that far out and as long as the roof looks ok / straight it’s not putting the roofers out, thank you
Good stuff Robin, I may have missed it but what is Ed up to these days? cheers from down under
First Class Job
Thanks
That's kind, thank you!!
I'm at exact same stage. Builder says no need for cavity tray over lintels at wall tops as its well under the roof overhangs. Inclined to agree, rain can't go upwards...
Generally Building control like to see trays in all instances above lintels as good practice. Realistically, it's usually not needed. These are thermally broken lintels and have exposed insulation so here it works as a barrier for potential moisture passing through a lintel more effectively.
Lower down an exposed wall they make sense, but at wall plate level it seems like rules for rules sake
Can you please do a review on the Hilti laser levels ?
Will do
Another great video
Glad you enjoyed it
great video, do you screw the plates down as well after the mortar has set ?
Lovely video Robin.
Is it always practiced to sand/cement the wall plate down these days? Or is there a depending factor as to why it’s done here?
Cheers
The sand and cement is to transfer loads better and also get the levels perfectly set, it has been done here for many centuries, some of the oldest properties we work on from 17th and 18th centuries have a bedded plate albeit sand and lime or similar
@@ukconstructionalso quite often it is specified by the architect so no choice really.
nice job
I'd have thought you'd be using one of those fancy Mafell groove-cutting machines for your overlaps Robin, you could bash them out in a fraction of the time with one of those badbois!
Bloody expensive!! and it makes some serious mess!!! would love one all the same!!!!
Robin can I ask how do you know what height to put the plate too 🤔
Great rip for cutting shoulder joints freehand. Not clear how you ensured the wall plates were at 90 degrees ? Maybe you could make a follow-on video for wall plates and roof framing where the existing walls are not square.
the best
What size timbers are the wall plates? They look like 4x2" some regs ive seen say 4x3"
Does a masonry ground floor give better damp characteristics than stick framing directly onto the footings?
I've lived in a lot of older, damp houses. When I build my own, I want to avoid any risk of dampness as much as I can.
The membrane over the lintels is classed as a cavity tray
👍 what's the stuff between the block cavity that looks like timber?
This is an interlocking PIR insulation for cavities
Not a criticism just a genuine question. Across the pond when they do a "mudsill" they use a sill sealer which is like a dpc underneath they're plates. Is there any reason we don't do that in the uk that you can think of? Thanks Robin
Every day a school day, thanks
I can never understand why you have to bed on your wall plates in England. Can the bricky not manage to put the blocks on at the right high? Iv never done that in scotland. The bricky has the top of the wallplate spot on. We just drill the wallplate and fix it into the block with anchor fixings.
The internal skin of blockwork runs within a lintel. So linels often sit higher than the blockwork. Mortar bed helps to level it all out on a new course and spreads load more evenly.
Where’s ED these days Robin
How did you manage to get the hilti nuron lazer? I keep asking them when it will be out 😢😂
I am very fortunate to be supported by Hilti and they allow me to feature the new releases, it is a fabulous product!!
I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on it, I seen it on a hilti america video a few months ago and thought it looked the part. Think it's august/September it is out here so not long to wait.
Completely different [or mostly] to how we do it in Canada. We wouldn't bother with half lap joints, and the plates have to be bolted to the block walls, no cement underneath. I'm not saying one way is wrong or right, it's just different.
noticed you calling the cement mix muck. weird how different parts of the country call it different names. its actually muck up here too
hi would that lazer finder work on a dewalt green line 360 lazer
thank you
No reason why not. It's a Huepar lr6rg
hello. is that green receiver is third party? that you connected to hilti?
The receiver is a Huepar lr6rg. It's nothing fancy. One of the cheaper receivers on the market but works well! The holder is questionable quality though!
Here is a link for it amzlink.to/az0YTa2l8zH40
Very interesting again! Check out ‘how to cut hip rafters ‘ skill builder - 4yrs ago , an awesome insight into how a simple roof is done , obviously by the man himself, Robin Clevett, ! Been following Robinfor years, never get bored!!
If the brickies lasered the top couse you could of just nail gunned that plate!
that would be nice Shaun!!!
great vid rob
what happened to ed
He is working on his family place in Devon, he will be back later in the summer
Where is Ed these days?
👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
No Ed?
"opposites"? "suction"? "back datum"? "spine"? ... too many terms I don't understand in this one.
Where Ed ?
Wheres Ed?
Back soon!