Had the exact same noise. The dealership replace the parts below on the rear diff. Noise is gone and ride is smooth. 2021 Willys with limited slip differential 1 68474060AC CASE KIT- DIFFERENTIAL 1 68401298AA GASKET - REAR COVER 2 68378949AA LUBRICANT -GEAR 1 4318060AD LUBRICANT-AXLE
Spoiler alert: If you fast forward to the end of this saga, mine was exactly the same problem. Even though I actually had gotten the rear and rebuilt it turned out that one of the new carrier bearings was bad. After trying everything else I took it back to the shop. They rebuilt it again and sounds is gone.
I've seen some folks use a 2x4 block of wood when installin the seal & a sockett to install bearing's// I guess when your in wood's and no tool store around you use what you got?????? . They say you get an even pressured hit when installing the the seal, & setter which if not positioned right can dent a side or damage it. Nice info, easy to understand & did not talk too fast & explanation in detail step by step & not jumpin all over the place i am 62 have seen alot of YT video's felt very comfy watching & listening my first subscription LOL! I'll be watching for outcome ! I have a 03 wrangler rear noise started around a day or so ago will be heading over to my mechanic later today for follow up not sure if differential or wheel bearing / sounds like card in spokes of a bike noise ?????
Thanks for watching, the kind words, and the sub, Claude! With this Jeep, it wouldn't surprise me if it were something totally unexpected that causes the noise to go away - or it never goes away. Whatever the cause, it's certainly not anything obvious. I hope you're able to get to the bottom of your noise soon!
Nice work. I hate it didn't work out. When I saw the pitted axle I lost a lot of hope that bearings would fix you sound. My axles are worn also, but smooth. I think that axle is your noise. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, Steve! I hope a new axle is the end of it. While I like learning new things, getting an easy win once in a while would be nice. At least I’ll be proficient in draining the diff. Given the sludge in there the first time I opened it, I guess flushing it a couple of times is a good thing? (sigh)
@@h22eh6 Nope. I’ve replaced pretty much all of the suspension, front and rear, that one rear axle, and had the pinion yoke replaced at this point. At this point it’s just “normal.” Jeep shop thinks it’s the wear pattern on the rear gears. They’re not damaged put Previous Owner ran it a while with a bad pinion and probably changed the wear pattern a little. But all the rear gears and bearings are good so we just keep an eye on it and listen to see if it changes and it hasn’t. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, gives me something to go on, I have a higher sharper pitch noise, more like a hammer hitting the diff while driving, it speeds up and slows down, and rolling in neutral. Since I have not owned the TJ long and not knowing what has been done, I will copy what you did and hope that ends it. I'm hoping it's not the gears.
Good luck - it was quite an effort for me to eventually figure out what the problem was. Sad to say it, it was the gears. Check out this playlist for the full saga, if you haven't watched it already: ua-cam.com/play/PLhW5wYsEOUKrN4XNQbaLlqlDNPz4hqE5D.html
Did you have to replace the gasket on the differential? And if I'm replacing the seals should I just go ahead and replace the bearings as well since I got everything apart?
I use a Lube Locker reusable gasket on my differentials, which is why I don't show replacing it. Here's a link to it if you're interested: amzn.to/3XauBgx Since the bearings are so inexpensive and you're 90% of the way to replacing them by doing the seals, I'd probably replace the bearings as well unless I knew it had just been done recently. I'd do it just because I wouldn't want to get back in there again soon, especially with having to mess with the differential. Thanks for watching, Diana, and good luck.
I have the same sound I think, and was planning on doing the same repair. Is your sound worse with light throttle input but goes away if you press the clutch or coast?
The sound kicks in at around 20 or 25 mph. In increases in volume and frequency, up to a point, with wheel speed. I've had it up on jack stands and run it up to ~40 mph and there's no noise so it's definitely only happening when there's weight on the system. Clutch depressed/coasting doesn't change it (other than it slows down with wheel speed). Check out some comments in other videos but I've replaced these bearings, the driver rear axle, the u-joints on both drive shafts, the full suspension, the exhaust system, the engine mounts (including transmission mount), sway bar bushings (front and back), rotated tires, driven without front drive shaft (still makes the noise), replaced the rear diff pinion gear and yoke, and had the shop tell me that the noise is probably the new sound it makes due to gear meshing because previous owner let the pinion get so bad that there's slight wear on the gearing. They told me I did not need to replace the gears and I should just accept the noise as "new, annoying normal." If you can figure it out, I'll buy you a beer! Thanks for watching, Bryce, and good luck.
Semi related.. I need to rebuild my rear differential to eliminate a noise like the one you've tracked down. Is it worth my time and frustration to do it myself in the driveway or should I take it to a shop? I imagine it's super pricey if a shop does it.
I think it depends on a few things. Your definition of "super pricey," for one thing. Also your expertise/knowledge with this type of work. If it were me, since I've never done it before and am a bit scared of it, I'd spend a lot of time reading and watching to learn how to do it. I'd then need to buy some specialty tools and equipment in order to measure backlash and get the shims right, etc. It would also, for sure, take me way longer to do than it would the shop. So there's the 'value' of your own labor hours plus consideration of the vehicle being offline for that long (not ideal, perhaps, if it's your daily driver). For my situation and the shop I used, they charged me 5 hours labor and ~$150 for a rear end rebuild kit. Thus the total cost was under $700 and I was without the Jeep for only a day (a worry free day because I didn't have to worry about my poor skills and I knew they'd do it right). I hope that helps - and good luck with your TJ! Thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thats great info. Thanks! My skill level is pretty solid (self taught on my rusty old TJ). I'm pretty confident that I can do it, having watched a ton of UA-cam videos, but I bet I'd burn a whole Saturday on it, maybe more. Might be worth $700. Thanks for the info and keep up the good work. Love your channel!
Thanks for watching! That question's a pretty broad one and I'm not a gearing expert so I'll just tell you what I know but recommend you keep doing research. The answer will depend mostly on the gearing of your differential. Even in the same Jeep, axles for a Dana 35 are different in size and spline from axles for a Dana 44. Take a look at www.tenfactory.com and put in the various vehicles you're curious about. For example, if you put in a 1997 Jeep Cherokee, the rear left axle for that Dana 35 will also work in the rear left of a 1997 Jeep TJ with the Dana 35. I hope that helps a little.
Oh wow. Thanks, Kevin. It took me a bit of studying to see what you see. Now I can't unsee it. I'll get in there and fix it (and double check the other side) as soon as I can. For everyone else, look at 6:31 in my video and you'll see that the green hook and the metal 'plate' the green spring attaches to both go behind the gold colored lever. The metal plate is actually supposed to go on top of the gold plate but the green hook does go behind the gold lever. That probably makes no sense when you read it but go check out 19:44 in this video (ua-cam.com/video/EWFcx6C7n_Y/v-deo.html) and you should see it. Good eagle eyes, Kevin, and thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Oh man, I wouldn't worry about it that much if everything has been running well. You did the brake job a year ago, right? I just finished up mine, and I was having problems with the adjustment lever NOT engaging with the star wheel. I used parts of the old adjustment and bent the lever itself to help it engage completely. I did read on other sites that some DIY people were pretty anal retentive about everything being exactly where it "should be". You did a great job going over the bearing and seal replacement. Good Job.
@@th3frogman Yeah, you're right. Though I've got to pull the driver side rear axle in the near future so I'll probably just take care of it then, just since I know it's there... Thanks again for the help. And thanks for the words on the rest of the video.
Yup! That was it. But it took a good while to get there. Check out my “TDSR” playlist to see the progression or check this video out to skip to the ending. Is that the Sound of Silence? - Update on TDSR ua-cam.com/video/Xx937ZjPQNI/v-deo.html Thanks for watching, and maybe subscribing?, Steve.
Check out the video description for extra info, parts, tools, torques, and any updates.
Had the exact same noise. The dealership replace the parts below on the rear diff. Noise is gone and ride is smooth. 2021 Willys with limited slip differential
1 68474060AC CASE KIT- DIFFERENTIAL
1 68401298AA GASKET - REAR COVER
2 68378949AA LUBRICANT -GEAR
1 4318060AD LUBRICANT-AXLE
Had the EXACT same sound. Was the left bearing on the carrier gear. The one on the side of the ring gear.
Spoiler alert: If you fast forward to the end of this saga, mine was exactly the same problem. Even though I actually had gotten the rear and rebuilt it turned out that one of the new carrier bearings was bad. After trying everything else I took it back to the shop. They rebuilt it again and sounds is gone.
I've seen some folks use a 2x4 block of wood when installin the seal & a sockett to install bearing's// I guess when your in wood's and no tool store around you use what you got?????? . They say you get an even pressured hit when installing the the seal, & setter which if not positioned right can dent a side or damage it. Nice info, easy to understand & did not talk too fast & explanation in detail step by step & not jumpin all over the place i am 62 have seen alot of YT video's felt very comfy watching & listening my first subscription LOL! I'll be watching for outcome ! I have a 03 wrangler rear noise started around a day or so ago will be heading over to my mechanic later today for follow up not sure if differential or wheel bearing / sounds like card in spokes of a bike noise ?????
Thanks for watching, the kind words, and the sub, Claude! With this Jeep, it wouldn't surprise me if it were something totally unexpected that causes the noise to go away - or it never goes away. Whatever the cause, it's certainly not anything obvious.
I hope you're able to get to the bottom of your noise soon!
Thanks for the video! Great tutorial. I've really been enjoying the videos.
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Nice work. I hate it didn't work out. When I saw the pitted axle I lost a lot of hope that bearings would fix you sound. My axles are worn also, but smooth. I think that axle is your noise. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, Steve! I hope a new axle is the end of it. While I like learning new things, getting an easy win once in a while would be nice.
At least I’ll be proficient in draining the diff. Given the sludge in there the first time I opened it, I guess flushing it a couple of times is a good thing? (sigh)
@@CarbonsDIYGarage did he fix the problem
@@h22eh6 Nope. I’ve replaced pretty much all of the suspension, front and rear, that one rear axle, and had the pinion yoke replaced at this point. At this point it’s just “normal.”
Jeep shop thinks it’s the wear pattern on the rear gears. They’re not damaged put Previous Owner ran it a while with a bad pinion and probably changed the wear pattern a little. But all the rear gears and bearings are good so we just keep an eye on it and listen to see if it changes and it hasn’t.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks, gives me something to go on, I have a higher sharper pitch noise, more like a hammer hitting the diff while driving, it speeds up and slows down, and rolling in neutral. Since I have not owned the TJ long and not knowing what has been done, I will copy what you did and hope that ends it. I'm hoping it's not the gears.
Good luck - it was quite an effort for me to eventually figure out what the problem was. Sad to say it, it was the gears. Check out this playlist for the full saga, if you haven't watched it already:
ua-cam.com/play/PLhW5wYsEOUKrN4XNQbaLlqlDNPz4hqE5D.html
Did you have to replace the gasket on the differential? And if I'm replacing the seals should I just go ahead and replace the bearings as well since I got everything apart?
I use a Lube Locker reusable gasket on my differentials, which is why I don't show replacing it. Here's a link to it if you're interested: amzn.to/3XauBgx
Since the bearings are so inexpensive and you're 90% of the way to replacing them by doing the seals, I'd probably replace the bearings as well unless I knew it had just been done recently. I'd do it just because I wouldn't want to get back in there again soon, especially with having to mess with the differential.
Thanks for watching, Diana, and good luck.
I have the same sound I think, and was planning on doing the same repair. Is your sound worse with light throttle input but goes away if you press the clutch or coast?
The sound kicks in at around 20 or 25 mph. In increases in volume and frequency, up to a point, with wheel speed. I've had it up on jack stands and run it up to ~40 mph and there's no noise so it's definitely only happening when there's weight on the system. Clutch depressed/coasting doesn't change it (other than it slows down with wheel speed). Check out some comments in other videos but I've replaced these bearings, the driver rear axle, the u-joints on both drive shafts, the full suspension, the exhaust system, the engine mounts (including transmission mount), sway bar bushings (front and back), rotated tires, driven without front drive shaft (still makes the noise), replaced the rear diff pinion gear and yoke, and had the shop tell me that the noise is probably the new sound it makes due to gear meshing because previous owner let the pinion get so bad that there's slight wear on the gearing. They told me I did not need to replace the gears and I should just accept the noise as "new, annoying normal."
If you can figure it out, I'll buy you a beer!
Thanks for watching, Bryce, and good luck.
Semi related.. I need to rebuild my rear differential to eliminate a noise like the one you've tracked down. Is it worth my time and frustration to do it myself in the driveway or should I take it to a shop? I imagine it's super pricey if a shop does it.
I think it depends on a few things. Your definition of "super pricey," for one thing. Also your expertise/knowledge with this type of work. If it were me, since I've never done it before and am a bit scared of it, I'd spend a lot of time reading and watching to learn how to do it. I'd then need to buy some specialty tools and equipment in order to measure backlash and get the shims right, etc. It would also, for sure, take me way longer to do than it would the shop. So there's the 'value' of your own labor hours plus consideration of the vehicle being offline for that long (not ideal, perhaps, if it's your daily driver).
For my situation and the shop I used, they charged me 5 hours labor and ~$150 for a rear end rebuild kit. Thus the total cost was under $700 and I was without the Jeep for only a day (a worry free day because I didn't have to worry about my poor skills and I knew they'd do it right).
I hope that helps - and good luck with your TJ! Thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thats great info. Thanks! My skill level is pretty solid (self taught on my rusty old TJ). I'm pretty confident that I can do it, having watched a ton of UA-cam videos, but I bet I'd burn a whole Saturday on it, maybe more. Might be worth $700. Thanks for the info and keep up the good work. Love your channel!
@@gregk.1399 Best of luck with it! Consider recording it and posting a video! I appreciate the feedback on the channel.
nice video, got a question..the axle of a jeep cherokee fits a jeep wrangler?
Thanks for watching! That question's a pretty broad one and I'm not a gearing expert so I'll just tell you what I know but recommend you keep doing research.
The answer will depend mostly on the gearing of your differential. Even in the same Jeep, axles for a Dana 35 are different in size and spline from axles for a Dana 44.
Take a look at www.tenfactory.com and put in the various vehicles you're curious about. For example, if you put in a 1997 Jeep Cherokee, the rear left axle for that Dana 35 will also work in the rear left of a 1997 Jeep TJ with the Dana 35.
I hope that helps a little.
FYI, your green adjustment spring isn't attached to the lever correctly. Minor discrepancy, but something I noticed.
Oh wow. Thanks, Kevin. It took me a bit of studying to see what you see. Now I can't unsee it. I'll get in there and fix it (and double check the other side) as soon as I can.
For everyone else, look at 6:31 in my video and you'll see that the green hook and the metal 'plate' the green spring attaches to both go behind the gold colored lever. The metal plate is actually supposed to go on top of the gold plate but the green hook does go behind the gold lever.
That probably makes no sense when you read it but go check out 19:44 in this video (ua-cam.com/video/EWFcx6C7n_Y/v-deo.html) and you should see it.
Good eagle eyes, Kevin, and thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Oh man, I wouldn't worry about it that much if everything has been running well. You did the brake job a year ago, right?
I just finished up mine, and I was having problems with the adjustment lever NOT engaging with the star wheel. I used parts of the old adjustment and bent the lever itself to help it engage completely.
I did read on other sites that some DIY people were pretty anal retentive about everything being exactly where it "should be".
You did a great job going over the bearing and seal replacement. Good Job.
@@th3frogman Yeah, you're right. Though I've got to pull the driver side rear axle in the near future so I'll probably just take care of it then, just since I know it's there...
Thanks again for the help. And thanks for the words on the rest of the video.
Probably the carrier bearings
Yup! That was it. But it took a good while to get there. Check out my “TDSR” playlist to see the progression or check this video out to skip to the ending.
Is that the Sound of Silence? - Update on TDSR
ua-cam.com/video/Xx937ZjPQNI/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching, and maybe subscribing?, Steve.
wow you f...d up...............slide hammer works perfect