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How to Change the Oil on a Yamaha Kodiak
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2011
- In this video, I walk through step by step the process of replacing the engine oil and filter on a 2010 Yamaha Kodiak.
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I am not responsible for any issues that may have occurred from following these processes.
I believe that you take out both the big one with the screen, and the rear plug, they are both connected to the oil pan. The rear one is for just draining the oil, the other one allows you to clean the oil screen, which is part of the process described in the manual.
Thanks 6speed!! Great video. Just got a 2011 Kodiak and it's due for an oil change. This video is very helpful since I've never done this before.
Thanks for the video finally one where you can see everything. My 2018 you have to remove too much plastic to get filter what a pain. Why not have the filter accessable
It's a couple beers for me.🍻
The one you said was not the right plug...that is still the engine drain correct? Just has a pre-filter screen and spring correct.
Ken Layton you are correct. Drain plug is almost at the back of the motor
Lol you had me panicking for a second bc I just changed mine yesterday(probably why your video popped up on my suggested) and thats the one I use since I usually clean the filter. I prefer to inspect it just to try and catch any internal failure before it becomes catastrophic. Has saved me in the past but this is my first oil change on the kodiak and you had me nervous.haha
It was asked earlier what the large "plug not to take out" I took that out then I saw your video... what did I drain out? it had a tube and a spring with it as well. The proper oil drain plugged is blocked by my plow mount plate. I have to remove that next, but wanted to know what I did wrong before continuing. I hope you get this message and can answer.. thanks, Pete
When you pulled the big plug, it drained the engine oil, I believe it's the strainer for the oil pump pickup. You've got nothing to worry about, it's just a pain to get back in once you've pulled it.
ok I got it back in there. I can just continue with the filter and refill with no worries? Thanks so much for replying, and thanks for the video. I was really worried I drained a different fluid compartment.
Pete
Absolutely continue with it. The first time I changed the oil on this thing, I took that plug out inadvertently. The transmission and engine share the same oil in this design.
@@6speeddakota with the large plug it has a spring and a mesh filter. Does the mesh filter go next to the plug or not
Hey man, I just changed the oil on my 04 Kodiak 450 and let it sit for about three days. Now I have smoke at cold start. it seems to clear up after a few minutes. Do you have any idea of what could be the issue?
Did you overfill the crankcase? It'll burn oil if it's way overfilled, also if you used oil that's too thin, that'll slip past the rings and burn. Smoke from burning oil will tend to linger in the air a bit. If it looks like smoke is coming out but it dissipates almost immediately, it's more than likely moisture just because of the humidity in the air, and you have nothing to worry about.
If you dumped the wheeler on its side or upside down, then I'd be pointing fingers at the airbox which is more than likely full of oil as the oil will travel to the top of the motor, through the breather tube, and into the airbox when it's in any orientation but on all 4's.
I filled it with yamalube 1040 from the dealership. I did not overfill it, I checked the dip stick and the level shows half way on the level from the marker. everything I read points to the piston rings, now I wished I would have never changed it.do you think I should try different oil to see if that will help. also, thank you so much for replying to my question.
Something doesn't seem right here. I've never heard of burning oil occurring after changing the oil. If you're 100% sure it's burning oil, double check the airbox first, like I said earlier, if it got flipped, it'll dump oil into the airbox. Pull your air filter out and look into the carburetor throat. If you see oil inside the intake tube, then you've more than likely got a plugged breather or PCV tube, which won't allow the crankcase pressure to equalize, so it'll puke oil out of the line and straight into the intake or airbox. You may have to look really closely, because sometimes it's hard to see.
My only other thought is that the motor was already hurt before you bought it, and the previous owner had put 20W50 motorcycle oil in it to get it to stop burning oil so he could dump it on someone else, when you changed to the correct 10W40, then all hell broke loose.
Generally, smoke at cold start is not an indication of piston ring failure, it's an indication of valve stem seal failure. Worn or damaged piston rings will result in thick blue smoke all the time, not just on start up. Pull the spark plug and look at it, if it's got thick, gunky buildup on it, that's a sure fire indication of burning oil.
I will check that, again thank you for taking time to answering my questions.
So that big bolt you said not to take out, Its the oil strainer? What did I just drain out? and what do I need to fill back up?
Thanks for this video.
Helpful video thank you!
The video was a great help, thanks.
A one beer job. Love it!
yeah I now I looked at there web site and found it I was just asking because I am getting my 2012 kodiak 450 eps I think this weekend so I just wonted to now so when I was going to change my oil then I would now already but thanks for the help and I did not now it was that part number well I now know thanks again:)
As a matter of fact you can, part number is K&N KN-303 !
There is even a chrome version (KN-303c) although i dont see how this would serve in the case of a kodiak :-)
hi i was wondering if you could give me advice? there is a rear boot that is leaking oil and it comes out as fast as i put it in.
i did take a pic of it because im not sure what the part is called
That rear boot is likely for the drive shaft. You've probably blown the seal out of the back of the transmission either due to dirt/water intrusion or because a bearing is chewed up in the transmission. The engine and the transmission are contained within the same case and they use the same oil on this design.
It is connected to the shaft that leads to the axle. Is it a hard fix?
I have no idea, I've never done it before. I'm going to go out on a limb and say probably not an easy fix though
Yea could be worse. It could have been on a car. Lol
Not letting Yamaha rip me any more cross referenced the filter to Wix $4.01 vs 18 at dealer lol screw them. What is that larger drain plug
I will look it up thanks and that 4.6l It`s not a bad motor but I don`t realey like it I got a 2008 ford f 150 with the camera and subwoofer and the 5.4 triton
do you now if you can put a k&n oil filter on the kodiak 450
i used automotive oil mobil 1 5w-30 instead of 10w-40 do i have anything to worry about?
Yes, the clutch needs the proper friction modifiers to run properly. Also, the motorcycle oil is designed to be a gear lubricant as well. Since the transmission is contained within the engine casing and is lubricated by the engine oil, it needs the proper motorcycle oil to function properly
i never rode it yet what will happen if i do ride it ?
it could cause the clutch to start slipping. Best thing to do is change your oil again and use the proper motorcycle oil
theres a CVT clutch on the outside but theres also a clutch on the inside ?
With the Yamaha transmissions, the belt is on the outside, but the clutch is on the inside. I can't speak for any of the other manufacturers
thanks for the vid man
what if you have no oil in it ? do you still need a oil filter?
You always need both oil and an oil filter, when the oil is pumped through the system, it hits the oil filter first. And you definitely need oil, because without it, the motor won't run long before it gives up.
+6speeddakota . well I haven't had the 4wheeler long it was last serviced in February when I got it . how many hours until do you service it again ?
I don't generally go by hours but by the months. I change it before and after the summer, so generally May, and then September. The heat plus the dust breaks down the oil faster, so I change it at a shorter interval after the summer. That's using it every weekend for a couple hours a day in very dusty conditions. I recommend cleaning the air filter every 1-2 weekends of use depending on how dusty the area is. You'll see the dirt buildup on the air filter and it's easy to gauge when it needs cleaning.
For someone so concerned with a new washer on the drain plug you should be more concerned with not owning a torque wrench and torquing the drain plug to 23 ft per lbs and the oil filter to 12 ft per lbs
I own 4 torque wrenches, I'd like to see you try and torque an oil filter onto the housing.
***** I do it every time with the right tool 12 ft/lbs.
P.S. I do like the rest of the video just was a note