Just a side note that this is an effective method for lightweight doors, but with a heavy solid core door (50+lbs), might want to consider solid (shimmed) anchor points behind the hinges, esp. top & bottom. Over years of opening/closing, fasteners in the middle of the jamb can act as a pivot point, which leads to the door sagging a bit. Manufacturers like Anderson include matching hinge screws that are long enough to go through hinge and jamb into the RO framing. Also might want to consider stainless steel door pans - foot traffic over the threshold can deposit a terrific amount of moisture over time, especially in climates like the PNW. Costs more and takes longer, but worth it down the road - just my $.02. Thanks for posting, love this channel.
They guy who invented this method, Gary Katz, uses this method as a starting point. He then encourages shimming behind the hinges and around the strike plate. Another great tip is to not drive a screw through a hinge screw location. Instead, remove the hinge screws from one hinge at a time and drive your 2 1/2" screw behind the hinge. Then reinstall the hinge screws and move on to the next hinge. That way if anyone removes the hinges from the jamb, they are not taking out the long screw and won't mess the door installation up by over or underdriving the long screw when they replace it.
Simple tip: Don't replace (1) screw in the hinge just add a screw behind the hinge. If you replace a screw and door is removed in the future for painting there is a chance the jamb could move. best of luck
I've always thought that if the shims are held by tension, they would eventually fall away from expansion/contraction, I suppose the screws would still hold the position of the door. Great, timely video!
I have Gary’s books and watched his videos and he is a Master Carpenter. I skip the tape and use a product called Jamsill Guard. Goes in easy and offers more protection I believe. Good job as always with entertainment!
Hello and thank you for the videos that you provide. I find them entertaining and helpful. I am a custom home Designer / Builder in eastern North Carolina and ironically I have gotten to the point where I really don't let the framers install the doors because they don't do some of the things that need to be done such as the things in your video. I am a “young” 60-year-old hands on custom home builder of higher end waterfront homes, and I actually enjoy doing this part so that I know we can ensure years of problem free, leak free door installations. Many of our doors on the water side of the home are in openings of 6 to 12 feet wide, as well as conventional single opening swing doors. This is the first time I've ever commented on anything of this sort but I would share couple minor things that we do that maybe of interest and your installation procedures. • We live in an intercoastal high-wind area and we have used the JAMSILL plastic door sill as part of our process, • I would normally build my door opening up with 1/4 inch luan or equal because of all the LVT's and LVP's now it keeps the door high closer to the desired clearance for flooring and a entrance rug / mat of sorts. (I used to use the half inch or 3/8 until the flooring selections have changed with our customers. • The other thing that we do is to check the level of the sill area entire opening and actually put a level across the sub floor sill area and use shims about every 8 to 12 inches to get that perfectly level. I see that you did this afterwards but then it would separate the door slightly from your adhesive underneath if we had to shim at that stage. (even though you're probably put a lot on so it may not matter) I'm just sharing the way that we've done this to get that subfloor shimmed very easily like that and then our luan that we place over it should be perfectly level and all the components we put on afterwards can be directly on that luan. You made reference to adding many nails to this particular piece and I get it, because it's really not going to go anywhere. However, what we do with the luan is simply use a pneumatic crown stapler and we're able to pepper that luan on down very quickly and easily with many fasteners. • Lastly what I found helpful is carrying a 4 or 6 inch PLASTIC putty knife for this installation which helps me tool out the flashing tapes into the corners for a nice clean contact between the horizontal and vertical areas at that corner. I see you used the zip products, and you have zip products throughout your house. I've been using the Tyvek flex tape four years, and it seems to work for us as well. ** Curious if this goes through to you because as I said before I've never really commented on any videos, but I do find your videos enjoyable to watch because of your comedic demeanor and overall way that you present quality information. I wish you were a framer in our area here because as you will know the labor force is continuously being challenged. **On another note, if you know any craftsman carpenters, project managers or hands on project foreman that would be interested in coming to work here in eastern North Carolina on the intercoastal please send them my way! PS what was that Blower Screw gun looking tool? Is it just a blower? Thanks again and keep it up!……………Ron Sound Home Builders, Inc.
Awesome explaination! I sometimes add security blocking into the adjacent framing, shim right under the strike side and use 4" #12 screws to secure the door from the neighbourhood bear from breaking in. Top notch video as always!
So glad you mentioned the story about the RO's being the wrong size. We just spent half the day preforming surgery on our window openings, of course the only day out of the week the plumber showed up. Never seen doors installed like this, idiot proof and bullet proof
Super appreciate your content and the work you put into creating it. I’m a young(ish) builder who has been in the industry on and off as mostly a general contractor employee for about a decade. It’s been fun to start really digging into and learning all the ways of building that I haven’t learned from my employers and feel like I’m becoming someone who can build on their own! I’ll be sure to start paying it forward as I move into more leadership roles :)
Some helpful things to consider in the interest of long time performance and no call backs. Prehung exterior units and interior prehung as well. 1. Don’t drive staples holding blocking. Snip them. You can get an occasional hook through the face of the jamb if you drive them. Same for interior doors. It only has to happen once to remember this. 2. Exterior doors before drywall and interior doors after drywall. In both installs, toe nail some 3” screws through the jack studs into the shoe plate and header, catching both at hinge and strike side. Sink some extra 3” screws through the length of the jack to make sure it is tight to the king stud and it will stay that way especially if you box frame and face nail your studs to the plate. Taller doors catch fire stops also if you can. Hard to do with drywall but be creative. This will unify the frame …think gusset. 3. As soon as you can open the door, check the hinge gains. Some millwork shops can be sloppy and you want to check that all hinge screws are snug and the hinge is seated properly. 4. On the door in the video, you can screw behind the weatherstrip. Bugle heads hold better than trim head screws. 5. When you are happy with the set and your reveals are good, then loosen the jamb leaf on the top hinge and drive a screw through the jamb so it’s hidden and not in any of the hinge holes that are there. Remove at least one hinge screw and use a matching screw head but with 3” shank. These typically are included with the door. 6. Use a security plate (anti forced entry) at the strike and recess it into the jack or just have the rockers leave it exposed. You don’t want to shim the drywall with the plate. casing will cover it. Today, an anti forced entry plate is almost a must. On interior doors we secure all jacks with long screws after drywall with toenails and a few along the length to remove any gaps in the framing. Lumber shrinks and twists as it dries in and framers may not toenail jacks to plates and headers. Approach the opening as if the framers forgot to nail the jack studs to the kings. Out of curiosity, where is the header at that opening?
When ordering your trim package, the interior doors (if they are not split jamb), should arrive without door stops and without a strike prep. The advantage of this for hardware installation is obvious. Millwork Shop assembled door stops are usually mitered and stapled or pin nailed only and always need a position adjustment. Best to order door stop in lengths where you can cut to fit after the jamb is set. Always cope the legs to the head. We hang doors with screws behind the stop moulding location, install hardware (then gap the door stops when latch seats in strike - according to paint or stain finish) and cope legs to head. The stops cover the screws in the jambs. Softwood jambs no predrill. You will learn to overdrive and back out screws to get your reveals and margins just right. Split jambs are installed a little differently and may require an occasional call back. When installing doors think marathon and not a sprint with respect to long time operation. But as far as speed of install, this method is the fastest also. Nice when the best is also the fastest. The painter will love you when you hide screws. A screw will almost always hold jamb position better than a finish nail.
@2:34 I’m pretty sure that was a “okay..” like in Wayne’s World lol I rewatched it like 4 times. Only thing missing with tucking your “hair” behind your ears like in the movie. Great video
i like when RO is bigger 1" then door frame thats give you space for spray foam specially if they using R ZIP thats mean they looking for more efficient house
Another reason to not run a fastener through a shim (mostly cedar) it splits them. My old boss taught me that. Gary Katz: the reason I keep a crescent wrench in my tool bag.
Do you happen to have any tips/links on installing exterior French double Doors? I always have issues trying to get all of the reveals line up. Every video I find is for interior doors.
Interesting method. I don't haven't used this one before. The one I was taught was put the door in, mark location of hinges by pushing hinge jamb to framing. See how much gap you have on the other side take door out put a flat Shim if needed in the marked areas of the hinges. We would have a box with different cubies for 16th 8th and so on shim stock nail them on to the spot where your hinges go. Then put door back in screw off the hinge side after caulking bottom of course making sure its level. Then just set reveals. I know this explanation is terrible it's easier to show it. But I could hang a lit door in 10 mins no problems heavy doors takes two guys and sliders obviously are there own beast.
I bought a 6 9/16 jamb door and it doesn't fit my 2x6 walls. When the jamb is flushed out with the exterior sheathing, the deadbolt mortise would be halfway off the jack stud. Did I do something stupid or is this a door manufacturing issue?
Installing an exterior door in garage. Always just glued(maybe screwed the threshold to concrete. You agree with that or do you put something between threshold and concrete? Liquid flash maybe??
I have a question ❓ What about the internal drywall. Should the drywall be in line with the internal frame of the door then the finish frame go around.? Otherwise how the drywall impact on the frame that you just installed. You know what I mean?
Most commercial doormakers make their jambs wide enough to accommodate framing, drywall and sheathing, so the jamb edge will be flush with the exterior sheathing and interior drywall. The casing lays flat and bridges the gap. If the width is different (say CI or 5/8" drywall), you can buy/make a custom width door jamb. Sometimes the trim carpenter will remove drywall as needed if the framing isn't plumb. Or jamb extensions, whatever works.
Prehung doors have been around since the 50s. But some of the tools apparently needed to install them were not. lol Nor were the large box stores where most modern builders buy them.
@@User-y9t7u I mean a fixed threshold on a door . Use a laser and make sure the door threshold is level . In other words words , start at the bottom then get your hinge side plumb and so forth
@@User-y9t7u well first of all every exterior door should have a door pan counter flashed with the building paper. Second, shim the threshold level, use polyurethane under the threshold to make it solid. Shim under the threshold where the jamb is on the low side
@@User-y9t7u I installed a Dutch store once and headed home perfect in about an hour. The homeowner had told me that last time she had a Dutch store installed on her previous house and took the carpenter a couple days and he was shaving wood, which isn’t good.. he should have started at the bottom is what messed him up
Number one: If you close your eyes this is a video of Ryan Reynolds explaining how to install a pre hung door. Lol. Number two: don’t take offense that I didn’t hit the bell for notifications. I don’t do that for anyone. Imagine I did that for everyone I’m subscribed to, my phone would buzz constantly and kill my battery before noon.
have you ever thought of somehow making the king and jack studs perfectly square so that you could just nail on jambs directly to them without shimming?
If the house ever settles or shifts (not uncommon in new construction) you're hooped. It's better and easier to leave a gap and shim it out. If something goes out of wack, resetting the door is a simple process then. Plus, construction lumber twists and moves a bit and the tolerances on a well built and fitted door need to be protected from that by having a few points of contact (the shim locations) and space.
This is the case with trimless or shadow gap jamb designs, where the door jamb is mounted to the framing prior to drywall. Nearly impossible to get right with dimensional lumber, so we use LVL or steel framing and triple-check everything, because there is no possibility of adjustment afterwards. And there is still natural/seasonal house movement that can screw everything up. The traditional lapped casing design with "floating" jamb is useful in that it allows for movement, ease of adjustment or replacement, concealment of effups, etc.
Watching the door instal and thinking about my balcony door that requires two guys to lift. The frame is not included. The good old fashioned metal frame covered in thermal broken plastic.
Never understood why Carpenters set door's with the door in the Frame... False! Remove the door, pre-set the frame first. Best method is, Hang a plumb bob on C/L of door frame and shim 4 corners to the proper dimension, use the door level for straightening the frame only. Now install door in frame and make adjustments as u set the reveals, etc. U would be forced to remove door if it was custom [ wide/tall/heavy] so why struggle???
Chris, when you install a trim package with 50 to 60 doors, speed is a major consideration. Leave the doors on the jambs when you can. You are ultimately fitting the door to the jamb and this is even more important than plumb and level. I’m not advocating hanging a door out of plumb and level but just stating the priority when hanging any door. Your eye will notice fit, reveals and margins and occupants won’t walk around on a daily basis with a 6’ level or a plumb bob or laser.
Most doors are not dead flat after acclimating to interior temperatures and humidity on a job site. So, hang the door to the jamb and fine tune plumb and level to the swing and close.
Ya, seen plenty of doors hung the "fast" way,,, only a matter of time and it's not working properly. Hung many doors over the decades, can hang em' fast and well, assuming the door's are of good quality. Alot of doors are junk these days. Does not matter what the Ultimate goal is,, done right or done wrong ur choice. Chrissy not Chris.@@henrypeisch5289
@@chrissypearson5597plumb bobs are great for pivot hardware locations and for very tall door frames (12’ and over). But that’s getting off the original topic of the video. I would not use a weighted line for a prehung 6’8 single or set however. But I have seen a lot of guys use different methods to get it done.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a side note that this is an effective method for lightweight doors, but with a heavy solid core door (50+lbs), might want to consider solid (shimmed) anchor points behind the hinges, esp. top & bottom. Over years of opening/closing, fasteners in the middle of the jamb can act as a pivot point, which leads to the door sagging a bit. Manufacturers like Anderson include matching hinge screws that are long enough to go through hinge and jamb into the RO framing. Also might want to consider stainless steel door pans - foot traffic over the threshold can deposit a terrific amount of moisture over time, especially in climates like the PNW. Costs more and takes longer, but worth it down the road - just my $.02. Thanks for posting, love this channel.
Never let framers do finish work...I was taught completely different in carpentry school
They guy who invented this method, Gary Katz, uses this method as a starting point. He then encourages shimming behind the hinges and around the strike plate. Another great tip is to not drive a screw through a hinge screw location. Instead, remove the hinge screws from one hinge at a time and drive your 2 1/2" screw behind the hinge. Then reinstall the hinge screws and move on to the next hinge. That way if anyone removes the hinges from the jamb, they are not taking out the long screw and won't mess the door installation up by over or underdriving the long screw when they replace it.
Hinge screws as fasteners to set a door is a no no.
Or a screw through a hinge hole is a no no. However you say it.
Your giggle as you hand bang 45 nails into the sill plate is priceless 😂
"Those are not the droids you're looking for!" Using that quote in framing... Epic!
Nice. I've also learned to replace at least one of the screws in each hinge with a longer one that can go through to the framing.
Simple tip: Don't replace (1) screw in the hinge just add a screw behind the hinge. If you replace a screw and door is removed in the future for painting there is a chance the jamb could move. best of luck
@@azscib I did just that thing the other day! Needed to fir-out the jamb while also securing it. Good advice.
I've always thought that if the shims are held by tension, they would eventually fall away from expansion/contraction, I suppose the screws would still hold the position of the door. Great, timely video!
Trim will also help hold the door in place too
Not only do I get the notifications, I also saved this to my “DIY” folder 😃
You are a gentleman and a scholar
Outstanding demonstration!
Can't wait for JLC Live, this will be my first one
I have Gary’s books and watched his videos and he is a Master Carpenter. I skip the tape and use a product called Jamsill Guard. Goes in easy and offers more protection I believe. Good job as always with entertainment!
Hello and thank you for the videos that you provide. I find them entertaining and helpful. I am a custom home Designer / Builder in eastern North Carolina and ironically I have gotten to the point where I really don't let the framers install the doors because they don't do some of the things that need to be done such as the things in your video.
I am a “young” 60-year-old hands on custom home builder of higher end waterfront homes, and I actually enjoy doing this part so that I know we can ensure years of problem free, leak free door installations. Many of our doors on the water side of the home are in openings of 6 to 12 feet wide, as well as conventional single opening swing doors.
This is the first time I've ever commented on anything of this sort but I would share couple minor things that we do that maybe of interest and your installation procedures.
• We live in an intercoastal high-wind area and we have used the JAMSILL plastic door sill as part of our process,
• I would normally build my door opening up with 1/4 inch luan or equal because of all the LVT's and LVP's now it keeps the door high closer to the desired clearance for flooring and a entrance rug / mat of sorts. (I used to use the half inch or 3/8 until the flooring selections have changed with our customers.
• The other thing that we do is to check the level of the sill area entire opening and actually put a level across the sub floor sill area and use shims about every 8 to 12 inches to get that perfectly level. I see that you did this afterwards but then it would separate the door slightly from your adhesive underneath if we had to shim at that stage. (even though you're probably put a lot on so it may not matter) I'm just sharing the way that we've done this to get that subfloor shimmed very easily like that and then our luan that we place over it should be perfectly level and all the components we put on afterwards can be directly on that luan. You made reference to adding many nails to this particular piece and I get it, because it's really not going to go anywhere. However, what we do with the luan is simply use a pneumatic crown stapler and we're able to pepper that luan on down very quickly and easily with many fasteners.
• Lastly what I found helpful is carrying a 4 or 6 inch PLASTIC putty knife for this installation which helps me tool out the flashing tapes into the corners for a nice clean contact between the horizontal and vertical areas at that corner. I see you used the zip products, and you have zip products throughout your house. I've been using the Tyvek flex tape four years, and it seems to work for us as well.
** Curious if this goes through to you because as I said before I've never really commented on any videos, but I do find your videos enjoyable to watch because of your comedic demeanor and overall way that you present quality information.
I wish you were a framer in our area here because as you will know the labor force is continuously being challenged.
**On another note, if you know any craftsman carpenters, project managers or hands on project foreman that would be interested in coming to work here in eastern North Carolina on the intercoastal please send them my way!
PS what was that Blower Screw gun looking tool? Is it just a blower?
Thanks again and keep it up!……………Ron Sound Home Builders, Inc.
I too use Jamsill. Great for weather proofing the threshold. The blower is a 40 volt Makita. I use a small 18 volt Makita leaf blower. Works great.
off topic but, What route would you recommend for someone that wants to build custom homes as a business just like yourself?
Tim you’re a legend.
Gary Katz and Rick Arnold are the best they rock.So are you Tim, One of the best.Welcome back ,missed you,love your videos. Thankyou. 👍💪
Youre videos are awesome! Thanks for going through all this in detail!
Awesome explaination! I sometimes add security blocking into the adjacent framing, shim right under the strike side and use 4" #12 screws to secure the door from the neighbourhood bear from breaking in. Top notch video as always!
I appreciate your content, thank you!
I subscribed at 57 seconds, great video
Excellent 👍
Thanks for sharing. I just watched for the comedy. Learning how to install an entry door was a bonus. Great lesson.
So glad you mentioned the story about the RO's being the wrong size. We just spent half the day preforming surgery on our window openings, of course the only day out of the week the plumber showed up.
Never seen doors installed like this, idiot proof and bullet proof
Super appreciate your content and the work you put into creating it. I’m a young(ish) builder who has been in the industry on and off as mostly a general contractor employee for about a decade. It’s been fun to start really digging into and learning all the ways of building that I haven’t learned from my employers and feel like I’m becoming someone who can build on their own!
I’ll be sure to start paying it forward as I move into more leadership roles :)
Also stoked to see more PNW builders on the University of UA-cam circuit!
I think you are underestimating my idiocy. Pretty sure I could mess this up pretty bad.
Some helpful things to consider in the interest of long time performance and no call backs. Prehung exterior units and interior prehung as well.
1. Don’t drive staples holding blocking. Snip them. You can get an occasional hook through the face of the jamb if you drive them. Same for interior doors. It only has to happen once to remember this.
2. Exterior doors before drywall and interior doors after drywall. In both installs, toe nail some 3” screws through the jack studs into the shoe plate and header, catching both at hinge and strike side. Sink some extra 3” screws through the length of the jack to make sure it is tight to the king stud and it will stay that way especially if you box frame and face nail your studs to the plate. Taller doors catch fire stops also if you can. Hard to do with drywall but be creative. This will unify the frame …think gusset.
3. As soon as you can open the door, check the hinge gains. Some millwork shops can be sloppy and you want to check that all hinge screws are snug and the hinge is seated properly.
4. On the door in the video, you can screw behind the weatherstrip. Bugle heads hold better than trim head screws.
5. When you are happy with the set and your reveals are good, then loosen the jamb leaf on the top hinge and drive a screw through the jamb so it’s hidden and not in any of the hinge holes that are there. Remove at least one hinge screw and use a matching screw head but with 3” shank. These typically are included with the door.
6. Use a security plate (anti forced entry) at the strike and recess it into the jack or just have the rockers leave it exposed. You don’t want to shim the drywall with the plate. casing will cover it. Today, an anti forced entry plate is almost a must.
On interior doors we secure all jacks with long screws after drywall with toenails and a few along the length to remove any gaps in the framing. Lumber shrinks and twists as it dries in and framers may not toenail jacks to plates and headers. Approach the opening as if the framers forgot to nail the jack studs to the kings.
Out of curiosity, where is the header at that opening?
If you order an exterior door, get 4 hinges even if it’s 6’8”.
When ordering your trim package, the interior doors (if they are not split jamb), should arrive without door stops and without a strike prep. The advantage of this for hardware installation is obvious. Millwork Shop assembled door stops are usually mitered and stapled or pin nailed only and always need a position adjustment. Best to order door stop in lengths where you can cut to fit after the jamb is set. Always cope the legs to the head. We hang doors with screws behind the stop moulding location, install hardware (then gap the door stops when latch seats in strike - according to paint or stain finish) and cope legs to head. The stops cover the screws in the jambs. Softwood jambs no predrill. You will learn to overdrive and back out screws to get your reveals and margins just right. Split jambs are installed a little differently and may require an occasional call back. When installing doors think marathon and not a sprint with respect to long time operation. But as far as speed of install, this method is the fastest also. Nice when the best is also the fastest. The painter will love you when you hide screws. A screw will almost always hold jamb position better than a finish nail.
Header is on top of the wall. We framed it that wa because there were still ongoing di about putting a transom window above the door
I see that now. Enjoyed the video Tim. All the best.
@@henrypeisch5289good luck, most prehangers won’t do that for you unless you’re ordering a custom wood door. Or they will charge you ridiculous price.
Shem behind each hinge and door latch into the framing. Some kicks the door it will fail to keep unwanted guests out.
@2:34 I’m pretty sure that was a “okay..” like in Wayne’s World lol I rewatched it like 4 times. Only thing missing with tucking your “hair” behind your ears like in the movie. Great video
I always like to replace at least 1 screw in each hinge that goes right thru into the jamb stud.
Great vids
The “pause for laugh” after the hot joke was outstanding
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks Tim. I’m a subscriber, but just watch for the comedy. LOL Keep up the good work.
i like when RO is bigger 1" then door frame thats give you space for spray foam specially if they using R ZIP thats mean they looking for more efficient house
I always remove the weatherstrips. its easier the hide the fasteners and it helps to see if there is any cross leg
Very similar to how i do my doors. I use a laser instead of a level, and i put screws in the hinge rather than outside it.
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
Another reason to not run a fastener through a shim (mostly cedar) it splits them. My old boss taught me that.
Gary Katz: the reason I keep a crescent wrench in my tool bag.
Ty
Do you happen to have any tips/links on installing exterior French double Doors? I always have issues trying to get all of the reveals line up. Every video I find is for interior doors.
Interesting method. I don't haven't used this one before. The one I was taught was put the door in, mark location of hinges by pushing hinge jamb to framing. See how much gap you have on the other side take door out put a flat Shim if needed in the marked areas of the hinges. We would have a box with different cubies for 16th 8th and so on shim stock nail them on to the spot where your hinges go. Then put door back in screw off the hinge side after caulking bottom of course making sure its level. Then just set reveals. I know this explanation is terrible it's easier to show it. But I could hang a lit door in 10 mins no problems heavy doors takes two guys and sliders obviously are there own beast.
On a new construction house...with correct framing....with no previous rot....
How do builders finish out the board you anchored under the door
I bought a 6 9/16 jamb door and it doesn't fit my 2x6 walls. When the jamb is flushed out with the exterior sheathing, the deadbolt mortise would be halfway off the jack stud. Did I do something stupid or is this a door manufacturing issue?
Are those 6-9/16th door jambs or custom? With 2x6 framing and R6 sheathing along with drywall it's about a 7-1/2" opening...
Correct
Hey awesome framer.. what program do you use to edit your videos?? I am also an android fan and looking for suggestions from a pro! Thanks!
Davinci Resolve on PC
Been looking into Capcut for phone
Installing an exterior door in garage. Always just glued(maybe screwed the threshold to concrete. You agree with that or do you put something between threshold and concrete? Liquid flash maybe??
Prob unnecessary. Just wodering what your approach is when installing exterior door on concrete.
Let me join your crew. Would make framing even better 😂
What kind of clip do you have on your driver? Thanks!
www.sidingtips.ca/shop/wide-hooks
I have a question ❓
What about the internal drywall. Should the drywall be in line with the internal frame of the door then the finish frame go around.?
Otherwise how the drywall impact on the frame that you just installed. You know what I mean?
Most commercial doormakers make their jambs wide enough to accommodate framing, drywall and sheathing, so the jamb edge will be flush with the exterior sheathing and interior drywall. The casing lays flat and bridges the gap. If the width is different (say CI or 5/8" drywall), you can buy/make a custom width door jamb. Sometimes the trim carpenter will remove drywall as needed if the framing isn't plumb. Or jamb extensions, whatever works.
It wasn't taught wrong,it was learned wrong.😮😂
Nailed it. 😂
How much are you charging in total labor to do all of this work in your area?
I’ve been wanting to count the number of times I open and close a door to hang it. Whew! I think the hinges are worn out. Time for a new door.
Prehung doors have been around since the 50s.
But some of the tools apparently needed to install them were not. lol
Nor were the large box stores where most modern builders buy them.
On remodel, I always check the threshold for level so Im not fighting a parellelogram. New construction of course different
How do you fix an unlevel threshold?
@@User-y9t7u I mean a fixed threshold on a door . Use a laser and make sure the door threshold is level . In other words words , start at the bottom then get your hinge side plumb and so forth
@@johnnichols2710 and if it isn't? Grind the foundation down?
@@User-y9t7u well first of all every exterior door should have a door pan counter flashed with the building paper. Second, shim the threshold level, use polyurethane under the threshold to make it solid. Shim under the threshold where the jamb is on the low side
@@User-y9t7u I installed a Dutch store once and headed home perfect in about an hour. The homeowner had told me that last time she had a Dutch store installed on her previous house and took the carpenter a couple days and he was shaving wood, which isn’t good.. he should have started at the bottom is what messed him up
Number one: If you close your eyes this is a video of Ryan Reynolds explaining how to install a pre hung door. Lol.
Number two: don’t take offense that I didn’t hit the bell for notifications. I don’t do that for anyone. Imagine I did that for everyone I’m subscribed to, my phone would buzz constantly and kill my battery before noon.
I'm one of your 3%
"Yeah, but can he hang a door." Scott Brown
I tack everything with finish gun adjust shim then go back and screw
The "other IBS" show? 😮
have you ever thought of somehow making the king and jack studs perfectly square so that you could just nail on jambs directly to them without shimming?
If the house ever settles or shifts (not uncommon in new construction) you're hooped. It's better and easier to leave a gap and shim it out. If something goes out of wack, resetting the door is a simple process then. Plus, construction lumber twists and moves a bit and the tolerances on a well built and fitted door need to be protected from that by having a few points of contact (the shim locations) and space.
Yep, but other's have suggested this can make the door more susceptible to following the movement of the framing. No idea if that has merit.
This is the case with trimless or shadow gap jamb designs, where the door jamb is mounted to the framing prior to drywall. Nearly impossible to get right with dimensional lumber, so we use LVL or steel framing and triple-check everything, because there is no possibility of adjustment afterwards. And there is still natural/seasonal house movement that can screw everything up. The traditional lapped casing design with "floating" jamb is useful in that it allows for movement, ease of adjustment or replacement, concealment of effups, etc.
Love your work, get that camera closer so I can see it, please and thank you. No droids to see here
Solid IBS exit joke
I’m in the 3.8%
You sir, are pure cool
@@AwesomeFramers also this was a great video, I’m actually confident for my next pre-hung! Thanks !
Watching the door instal and thinking about my balcony door that requires two guys to lift. The frame is not included. The good old fashioned metal frame covered in thermal broken plastic.
permit me to tell you a story.....those are just buzz words....😂😂
This guy doesn’t even ask the owners do they want self closing or self opening doors 😂 just puts it in neutral.
This is a spec home. We make the decisions.
If that is an 8’ level, this dude must be 7’ tall! LOL! Doubtful, on both counts!
Never understood why Carpenters set door's with the door in the Frame... False! Remove the door, pre-set the frame first. Best method is, Hang a plumb bob on C/L of door frame and shim 4 corners to the proper dimension, use the door level for straightening the frame only. Now install door in frame and make adjustments as u set the reveals, etc. U would be forced to remove door if it was custom [ wide/tall/heavy] so why struggle???
No struggling here, you're maybe overthinking it?
Chris, when you install a trim package with 50 to 60 doors, speed is a major consideration. Leave the doors on the jambs when you can. You are ultimately fitting the door to the jamb and this is even more important than plumb and level. I’m not advocating hanging a door out of plumb and level but just stating the priority when hanging any door. Your eye will notice fit, reveals and margins and occupants won’t walk around on a daily basis with a 6’ level or a plumb bob or laser.
Most doors are not dead flat after acclimating to interior temperatures and humidity on a job site. So, hang the door to the jamb and fine tune plumb and level to the swing and close.
Ya, seen plenty of doors hung the "fast" way,,, only a matter of time and it's not working properly. Hung many doors over the decades, can hang em' fast and well, assuming the door's are of good quality. Alot of doors are junk these days. Does not matter what the Ultimate goal is,, done right or done wrong ur choice. Chrissy not Chris.@@henrypeisch5289
@@chrissypearson5597plumb bobs are great for pivot hardware locations and for very tall door frames (12’ and over). But that’s getting off the original topic of the video. I would not use a weighted line for a prehung 6’8 single or set however. But I have seen a lot of guys use different methods to get it done.
Nice job, ugly door though.