Yes, Zenoah 50cc clones! I acquired 2 cylinders of 45mm bore, plus the one on my Alpina saw. Cyilinders have open single port on each side. I measured timing numbers for all of them. Thank you for your tutorial on using that digital angle meter! And now I'm scratching my head what to do with them. Numbers on one cylinder: EX: 105, TX:128, IN:72. Second cylinder: Ex:98, TX;124, IN:80. The one on the saw: EX:112, TX:132, IN:67. The saw doesn't rev high, but it does keep around 8 to 9k rpm in the cut with 18" bar. I don't need a longer bar, but I would like it get to the power a little higher in the rpm range. My first step with this saw will be to swap and try each of those cylinders, and see how the saw cuts with different port numbers.
Awesome work. I would love to see high contrast comparisons. Also would be really nice to see how you clean the cylinder and bottom end before reassembly!
Nicely done video after my first time giving it a shot it seems like laying everything out is a big part of being successful. Your recent series on the process has been really helpful saving for my next attempt at porting.
Thanks Joe! I would really like a better understanding of how altering ports and durations tailors power characteristics for torque/RPM/narrow powerband/wide powerband/etc.
Nice video! I have to get one of those pen lights, a modified Christmas tree light has worked but one must be mindful of the wire :). A Stihl MS462 built for pulling a 28" & 32" in Hardwoods. Duel port vs. Larger single port comparison on a 461 & 462.
Ive always wanted to see a video where you test a saw at all the stages of porting so people can see what each step gets for gains. Full Stock, stock + Muff mod; stock + muff mod + base gasket delete; muff mod + base delete + lower transfers opened; then a final test of muff mod + base delete + full port job
I agree.. And I think Joe should do a fully ported cyclinder and test longer vs short blow down...... Start at 25 degrees then 20 and 15 and dyno each step.....
That would be interesting to see just an exhaust mod, run on the dyno. Then add the intake mod and run on the dyno, and then a transfer mod, for a final dyno run to see the differences. Bit of an ask but would be cool to see
I know I might be late, but I would like to see simple man port bulid, so I think every one can grind on exhaust, intake, lower transfer, and probably find someone to cut the base(not likely a squishband), and see how the results goes. I gonna give a shoot these upper transfers one more time LoL I would love to see that grunt saw build, 50cc torque monster that would be so cool! As always, thanks for sharing tips and tricks :)
I cut some length off those long shaft burrs too… so you have some length but less chatter… those longer shaft burrs last pretty good for their price point… I like the little light through your plug hole idea there…👍😁
Great tutorial! Im just starting to play with porting, I'd like to see what a person can do with a cheap garage sale saw, like a 42cc craftsman or poulan... the 242xp and 42 special are little screamers, would be interesting to see what could be done with more readily available (and cheap!) saws.
I believe there is a lot of interest in the clone saws right now. Yes I know, the China thing. But people are snapping these things up by the handful and upgrading them with Hyway and Meteor top ends. I would love to see a few popular kit saws with baseline runs “as kitted” then runs with upgraded top ends then runs with upgraded top ends ported. With large cc saws running $1500-2200 these kits are popular.
. More hobby/race stuff like putting a bigger carb on that g444 saw you built. Taking the cheaper stuff further out than you would do with a name brand saw to see where the limits are. I would like to see a dyno of the individual parts of a saw like dyno, remove air filter, dyno, shave carb blades, dyno, muffler mod , dyno , remove choke, dyno. The 372 would be a good saw for that demo:)
THANKS, JOE. I WAS SURPRISED YOU DID NOT TOUCH THE INTAKE, BUT THE EPA 395 RAN LIKE MY OLD 394 WHEN YOU WERE DONE. YOUR OPINION CARRIES A LOT OF WEIGHT, AFTER ALL, "DYNO JOE" = "I CAN PROVE IT WORKS"... I'VE GOT A 58MM CHINESE-MADE 395 "BIG BORE" KIT, WHICH SHOULD TAKE MY WORK SAW FROM 94CC 100CC'S, BUT THE TRANSFERS ARE SO ANEMIC IT'S GOING TO TAKE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BREATHING. HAVE TO WAIT TILL AFTER XMAS...I'M THINKING ABOUT ROPE AND GRIT POWDER TO SHINE THE UPPERS USING A DRILL MOTOR WITH A SMALL PULLEY, BUT I'M CRAZY-IT'S JUST TOO MUCH FUN, AIN'T IT?
Joe it would be really cool to see a junk cylinder cut in half where it’s easier to see exactly what you are referring to as far as the angle of the transfers.
I would like to see hp difference from 16to1 to 32to1 to 50to1 I read some we're more oil will give more hp by filling all the Defects in cylinder to give u more compression
Hello from Brazil my friend Can you try to help me, please? My chainsaw(chinese) has a problem with excessive compression. But when I remove the spark plug the piston rotates normally. Even placing your finger in thze spark plug opening causes the piston to become extremely compressed again. Yesterday I installed a completely new cylinder and piston, but the problem remains. I changed the spark plug, removed the carburetor and exhaust fan, and still the problem remains. Do you have any idea what it could be? Can I send you a video showing the problem? I have been seeking help with this mystery on various social media channels, Instagram, UA-cam, but no one has been able to guess what could be causing the problem.
Can you show how to port without having a timing wheel to mark the grinding sections on the cylinder wall? Hopefully it's not impossible and can be done with an acknowledgement of a considerable risk to engine performance but as you say if we're practicing on a cheap asian saw and not a genuine 3120XP the risk is somewhat considerably more acceptable * Good vid 👍
You really need to know/understand the port time/durations to decide where You are starting and where you want to go. If you know the stroke, rod length you can use some online calculator to determine port height. But a simple degree wheel and wire can be bought cheap. Or pint one off and glue it to a cd.
I did a 170. Very hard to port. Meaning very small. Also had to upgrade the carb to an adjustable one. But it did scream and run a lot stronger when I was done.
What's your take on the type of porting you would perform with 066 stihl combining the use of 3/8 10T and advancing the timing 8-10 degrees with a barkbox and improved air intake mod
Depending on bar size 10t may be a bit much. But short bar that could work, 8-10* seems like a lot of advance. It may want to kick back a bit and could even detonate.
I understand taking material off the floor of the intake and the roof of the exhaust to change timing numbers. but what about the roof of the intake and floor of the exhaust how do you determine what to grind on them?
I don't normally mess with those . The exhaust floor dosent really do much at all. And some saws are really close to free port. Meaning the piston dosent seal off the exhaust port and the charge from the case can go right out. Intake roof adds more time area, but it can make a saw slow to respond. Or lazy.
Texturing the intake promotes turbulence and prevents fuel from dropping out of suspension. I can’t speak for Joe but I know where to cut based on cylinder timing (height of port) and time/area (width). Each porter has his own opinions and ways of going about the same task and different results, that’s what makes it an art. Remember in the beginning when he said to round the top of the exhaust port to avoid snagging the ring, but flatter ports make more power? That’s up to the individual how round to shape it, based on experience, trail and error, and personal style.
What could I do to my 661 with out machine work? I’ve ported a few saws so I’m aware of port shape. Chamfer. And keeping aware of of where the ring pin is etc. I want to go in and get some gains. I am going to send out my 500i and get fully worked on. My 661 is my falling saw only running a 36”- 42” bars. Thanks. Anyone can chime in.
They don’t want them spinning 14000 RPMs and they don’t want to replace cylinders every few run hours. We want different things than the manufacturer do and I do fully believe I know better than some of them do.
Hey guys. I'm a total newbie in saw porting and wanted to ask if somebody could explain to me what is the purpouse of "heart" shaped intakes? What effect does it give and in which situations shoud I use it?
@@dynojoemods2764 So more port area = more flow if I got it right. And I also think it's heart shaped with that thing sticking out in the middle so at BDC righs have support and they won't get hung up. Right?
Ahhhh, a rare glance of the secret porting station, where the wizardry happens🧐
Fantastic work, thanks for showing the before and afters, i learn quite a bit from those
Yes, Zenoah 50cc clones! I acquired 2 cylinders of 45mm bore, plus the one on my Alpina saw. Cyilinders have open single port on each side.
I measured timing numbers for all of them. Thank you for your tutorial on using that digital angle meter!
And now I'm scratching my head what to do with them. Numbers on one cylinder: EX: 105, TX:128, IN:72. Second cylinder: Ex:98, TX;124, IN:80. The one on the saw: EX:112, TX:132, IN:67. The saw doesn't rev high, but it does keep around 8 to 9k rpm in the cut with 18" bar. I don't need a longer bar, but I would like it get to the power a little higher in the rpm range.
My first step with this saw will be to swap and try each of those cylinders, and see how the saw cuts with different port numbers.
Thank you for showing your craft and results. Amazing
Awesome work. I would love to see high contrast comparisons. Also would be really nice to see how you clean the cylinder and bottom end before reassembly!
Nicely done video after my first time giving it a shot it seems like laying everything out is a big part of being successful. Your recent series on the process has been really helpful saving for my next attempt at porting.
Very helpful vids
Healthy bump in power. Like 25 percent more power. Awesome man. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Joe! I would really like a better understanding of how altering ports and durations tailors power characteristics for torque/RPM/narrow powerband/wide powerband/etc.
Nice job Joe! Very informative.
Another great video !! Keep up the good work Joe !!! 👍👏
Thank you for sharing your process!
This is a great video! Fantastic gains!
Excellent Video!!! That flexible pen light is the bee knees.
Thank you. That light is sweet! But the AAAA Batt are a pain to find unless ordering in bulk
Very clean work sir thank u 4 sharing
I like that backhand grip on that handpiece I’m going to try that on one… interesting technique there!!! 😉👍
Nice video! I have to get one of those pen lights, a modified Christmas tree light has worked but one must be mindful of the wire :). A Stihl MS462 built for pulling a 28" & 32" in Hardwoods. Duel port vs. Larger single port comparison on a 461 & 462.
Ive always wanted to see a video where you test a saw at all the stages of porting so people can see what each step gets for gains.
Full Stock, stock + Muff mod; stock + muff mod + base gasket delete; muff mod + base delete + lower transfers opened; then a final test of muff mod + base delete + full port job
I agree.. And I think Joe should do a fully ported cyclinder and test longer vs short blow down...... Start at 25 degrees then 20 and 15 and dyno each step.....
That would be interesting to see just an exhaust mod, run on the dyno. Then add the intake mod and run on the dyno, and then a transfer mod, for a final dyno run to see the differences. Bit of an ask but would be cool to see
Great video! You are truly an artist with the die grinders! ⛓️🪚 🧰✍🏼🔎⚙️ 👨🏻🔧👨🏻🏭 👏🏼
I know I might be late, but I would like to see simple man port bulid, so I think every one can grind on exhaust, intake, lower transfer, and probably find someone to cut the base(not likely a squishband), and see how the results goes. I gonna give a shoot these upper transfers one more time LoL
I would love to see that grunt saw build, 50cc torque monster that would be so cool!
As always, thanks for sharing tips and tricks :)
I cut some length off those long shaft burrs too… so you have some length but less chatter… those longer shaft burrs last pretty good for their price point…
I like the little light through your plug hole idea there…👍😁
Great tutorial! Im just starting to play with porting, I'd like to see what a person can do with a cheap garage sale saw, like a 42cc craftsman or poulan... the 242xp and 42 special are little screamers, would be interesting to see what could be done with more readily available (and cheap!) saws.
Awesome video!
Nicely done I love doing 395 XP cylinders they make a ton of power......💪
Yes they do
Love to see a Professional at Work!! Amazing what they teach you guys in dental school L O L!
Nice Joe, even a heated handle model
Thank you joe for all the info you so generous with
Nice work man
Great information and thanks for sharing. How do you work out how much material to remove and where for different model saws and cylinders?
Would like to see you work on open port cylinder like on a 61. See how to better shape the transfers on one of those suckers.😁
Thanks for the tips. Cheers
Nice job
Love to see ms460!!!
Awesome Gains!
Great video
I have noticed on many of these builds the torque gain trails the hp gain.
I want to see one geared towards more torque for cutting hardwoods like Black Locust. Please do a 359 or McCulloch 10-10 or both Joe.
Nice job joe. Clean effective work
Wow nice gain in HP and TQ
Watching from Kentucky
It would be good if you could show and explain the porting difference between a low torque grunt saw and a hi power reving saw I think
Thank you!
I believe there is a lot of interest in the clone saws right now. Yes I know, the China thing. But people are snapping these things up by the handful and upgrading them with Hyway and Meteor top ends. I would love to see a few popular kit saws with baseline runs “as kitted” then runs with upgraded top ends then runs with upgraded top ends ported. With large cc saws running $1500-2200 these kits are popular.
it would be nice to see husqvarna 61 with 272 top end ported and what you can get out of one.
. More hobby/race stuff like putting a bigger carb on that g444 saw you built. Taking the cheaper stuff further out than you would do with a name brand saw to see where the limits are. I would like to see a dyno of the individual parts of a saw like dyno, remove air filter, dyno, shave carb blades, dyno, muffler mod , dyno , remove choke, dyno. The 372 would be a good saw for that demo:)
Love the vid, what rpm do you run your cutter at when porting?
Hi Joe great vids just wondering what brand are your porting tools and who did you buy them from thanks
THANKS, JOE. I WAS SURPRISED YOU DID NOT TOUCH THE INTAKE, BUT THE EPA 395 RAN LIKE MY OLD 394 WHEN YOU WERE DONE. YOUR OPINION CARRIES A LOT OF WEIGHT, AFTER ALL, "DYNO JOE" = "I CAN PROVE IT WORKS"... I'VE GOT A 58MM CHINESE-MADE 395 "BIG BORE" KIT, WHICH SHOULD TAKE MY WORK SAW FROM 94CC 100CC'S, BUT THE TRANSFERS ARE SO ANEMIC IT'S GOING TO TAKE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BREATHING. HAVE TO WAIT TILL AFTER XMAS...I'M THINKING ABOUT ROPE AND GRIT POWDER TO SHINE THE UPPERS USING A DRILL MOTOR WITH A SMALL PULLEY, BUT I'M CRAZY-IT'S JUST TOO MUCH FUN, AIN'T IT?
Thx for Explaining that "porting" cost alot in equipment :-D
Thanks so much!!
Thanks Joe! Do you know if a 7x12 desktop/mini metal lathe has enough clearance to turn that cylinder?
Didn’t even know dentist/doctors worked on engines lmao
Joe it would be really cool to see a junk cylinder cut in half where it’s easier to see exactly what you are referring to as far as the angle of the transfers.
The real question is, do you save all the Aluminum dust/shavings to make homamade Tannerite?
Nice Cincinnati behind you.
I would like to see hp difference from 16to1 to 32to1 to 50to1 I read some we're more oil will give more hp by filling all the Defects in cylinder to give u more compression
And tune coordinally If that was not understood
Sorry meant to add a milling saw to the first part of my question
Nice gains, yes show us everything lol
where did you find that right angle cutter?
Where did you get the Angel cutter?
As good as it gets! That thing should be hitting 10hp once broken in!
Do they sell pre ported chainsaw cylinders
To be honest you didnt show us how to do nothing . We just warched you do one
Would love to have you port my 395xp!
Who can i buy ported cylinders for chainswas from?
Just wondering cuz iv never seen anyone do it before , but have you ever arched an exhaust port the opposite way? Would make some good content
I dont normally raise them enough to allow doing so.
Wait we're not supposed to eat the screws and paste?
Man thats great! Can you tell me what kind of cutting bits do you use? cheap ones or some like Pferd or so? Greetings from Germany
Use a mix of cheap long shank and some higher quality. It is really a preference of what feels/works best
@@dynojoemods2764 Thank you. Yeah I'm still not sure if its worth buying expensive burrs or the ones from Amazone.
On the 395 what was shooting for number
Tips and tricks porting a 371xp/372xp
Joe if you were to use a saw albeit 395 or 660 would you port for torque rather than chainspeed as milling causes alot of heat?
I'd pick the 395 for. Milling over the 660.
Outboard clutch and they do make better tq with my style of build
Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its rpm,power please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir
Hello from Brazil my friend
Can you try to help me, please?
My chainsaw(chinese) has a problem with excessive compression. But when I remove the spark plug the piston rotates normally. Even placing your finger in thze spark plug opening causes the piston to become extremely compressed again. Yesterday I installed a completely new cylinder and piston, but the problem remains. I changed the spark plug, removed the carburetor and exhaust fan, and still the problem remains. Do you have any idea what it could be? Can I send you a video showing the problem? I have been seeking help with this mystery on various social media channels, Instagram, UA-cam, but no one has been able to guess what could be causing the problem.
Can you show how to port without having a timing wheel to mark the grinding sections on the cylinder wall? Hopefully it's not impossible and can be done with an acknowledgement of a considerable risk to engine performance but as you say if we're practicing on a cheap asian saw and not a genuine 3120XP the risk is somewhat considerably more acceptable
* Good vid 👍
You really need to know/understand the port time/durations to decide where You are starting and where you want to go. If you know the stroke, rod length you can use some online calculator to determine port height. But a simple degree wheel and wire can be bought cheap. Or pint one off and glue it to a cd.
Stock dyno->Muffler Mod Dyno-> Muffler mod + ported dyno. ? Thanks!
I think a cool video would be to see how high in the rpm’s you can get the horsepower. And vise versa.
To bad we didn’t get to see anything, I think it it was already done 😂
it would be awesome if you can get a camera on your safety glasses so we can see your POV while doing the work.
How about porting a Stihl MS170 MS180 MS171 or MS181 everyone has one so it would probably be a very popular build.
I did a 170. Very hard to port. Meaning very small. Also had to upgrade the carb to an adjustable one. But it did scream and run a lot stronger when I was done.
What's your take on the type of porting you would perform with 066 stihl combining the use of 3/8 10T and advancing the timing 8-10 degrees with a barkbox and improved air intake mod
Depending on bar size 10t may be a bit much. But short bar that could work, 8-10* seems like a lot of advance. It may want to kick back a bit and could even detonate.
I understand taking material off the floor of the intake and the roof of the exhaust to change timing numbers. but what about the roof of the intake and floor of the exhaust how do you determine what to grind on them?
I don't normally mess with those . The exhaust floor dosent really do much at all. And some saws are really close to free port. Meaning the piston dosent seal off the exhaust port and the charge from the case can go right out. Intake roof adds more time area, but it can make a saw slow to respond. Or lazy.
@@dynojoemods2764 thanks that helps me understand it.
did you widen both sides of the lower transfers or just the exhaust side?
The intake side is already close to skirt width. Just did the exhaust side.
Make a torque monster for chainsaw mill
super fast!
do a 141 husqvarna
Why texture on the intake? And how do you know where to mark it to know how far to cut?
Texturing the intake promotes turbulence and prevents fuel from dropping out of suspension.
I can’t speak for Joe but I know where to cut based on cylinder timing (height of port) and time/area (width). Each porter has his own opinions and ways of going about the same task and different results, that’s what makes it an art. Remember in the beginning when he said to round the top of the exhaust port to avoid snagging the ring, but flatter ports make more power? That’s up to the individual how round to shape it, based on experience, trail and error, and personal style.
YYYYEEEESSSSSS!
How about doing a Husqvarna 55
Just starts drilling holes thru 😅 me
What could I do to my 661 with out machine work? I’ve ported a few saws so I’m aware of port shape. Chamfer. And keeping aware of of where the ring pin is etc. I want to go in and get some gains. I am going to send out my 500i and get fully worked on. My 661 is my falling saw only running a 36”- 42” bars. Thanks. Anyone can chime in.
Gasket delete, and widen intake/exhaust, healthy muff mod and a max flow should pep it right up
@@dynojoemods2764 what’s a good squish? I think the last time I check it was 30 something.
@@bryanmarks4070 I like .025-27
@@dynojoemods2764 thanks you.
@@dynojoemods2764 what lathe do you have? I’ve been looking at some grizzly lathes. What size would you recommend?
👍👍👍👍
Where’s the cauldron performance? Benny hill music ?
🤘🏻
What is your break in technique after porting?
Not necessary to treat it any differently than a regular break in
So weird how everyone is so scared of the intake. I modify the shit out of my intakes
❤️🔥🇺🇸
💪😁👍
🍺😜👍
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
It’s almost as if the manufacturer doesn’t know how to build a cylinder 🎉
They don’t want them spinning 14000 RPMs and they don’t want to replace cylinders every few run hours. We want different things than the manufacturer do and I do fully believe I know better than some of them do.
Hey guys. I'm a total newbie in saw porting and wanted to ask if somebody could explain to me what is the purpouse of "heart" shaped intakes? What effect does it give and in which situations shoud I use it?
More port area. Really comes down to testing, feel and duration already.
@@dynojoemods2764 So more port area = more flow if I got it right. And I also think it's heart shaped with that thing sticking out in the middle so at BDC righs have support and they won't get hung up. Right?