Been doing flooring for a while now, i think you did good, the only thing i reccomend is, when you were beating the cut piece with the tounge cleat nailed, you should have used your oscillating tool to cut the nails from underneith, just have the blade flush with the subfloor and cut those nails on the tounge side will save you a lot of time!
Nicely done. You can use the handle of a stainless steel table knife and flatten the sharp cut edge. It crushes a tiny micro bevel and keeps the UV finish intact.
I plunged a multitool to remove one plank and made a flush cut, and I would like to add a tongue/groove to lock in the edge of the replacement into the existing. Any ideas on how to accomplish it? I would assume that there's a dremel bit of some sort that's available somewhere
Installing new 5/8" wood flooring, some 2" crowns did not go in completely sticking out 1/8" and can't get to it. How to remove without ruining the board?
When you said your chisel wasn’t very sharp, it reminded me of what Tom on This Old House said - “All tools are hammers; except chisels. They’re screwdrivers”.
I have enginered hickory on an underlayment over concrete that used Titebond III glue to lock the tongue and groove together. Whats the best way to replace a board should I ever need to?
Cut as close and parallel to the next board as possible. Modify the new piece on your table saw to fit. Or after you’ve cut it and you’re dead set on tongue and groove staying there, you could get a slot style bit on your router and cut into the next piece a new groove. You won’t be able to do that on the other side though. If you’re a G on your table saw it should be no problem to go without that though because it will fit tight. Glue it down with Pl and put some weight on it for a day or two.
Is this the recommended way to replace say 20 to 25 pieces of flooring?? The reason I ask is this defeating the purpose of tongue and groove of the wood after all you are removing the groove ??? Or is this only recommended for one piece of wood?
This is a one pc scenario. If the 25 pcs all connect then you could tear out and replace it basically just like you would a new T&G floor. With minor adjustments on the ends.
@@w.k.d.constructionllc the 25 pcs are random and some connected together in a 17 x 26 room installation was done by Lowe’s and the flooring looks crummy and when the come back to replace those pieces I would like to have a idea of the right way it should be done not Butchered
This isn’t glued down …. Obviously by watching video .. anyone that installs a glued down floor is adding to their future problem when there is a water leak in kitchen area
@@markbyrd6581 engineered hardwood is not a good option for a kitchen period. What is it then nailed down? Because I have never heard of a click and lock engineered hardwood. Even if is click and lock you would have to fasten it differently when replacing one piece generally glue. Here in Texas almost all our houses are concrete slabs so usually only the second story has a subfloor like this even then I have only ever seen engineered hardwood installed with glue
Will this fix last. My builder did a bad job of selecting and installing wood and now has to fix 20% of the floor. I asking for a complete replacement but he says he can fix it. I very worried that the fixing will not last 20 years like the first hickory floor did before the fire. What do you think?
Good idea using the Kreg screws, but did you use any adhesive too? I try to use some wood glue or PL premium if I have it even of i can use nails/screws. Just my 2 cents, awesome work brother keep it up
eyes open as well... if the good lord has bless ya that way... praise jesus great video... just found ya on some short thing... it's crazy i already forgot what the short was about?? :((((@@w.k.d.constructionllc
Instead of using screws from underneath in the crawlspace, just spread some flooring adhesive down first. Add something heavy on top of the new piece to keep it pressed down into the glue until it cures.
Looks great from a East Tennessee floor and tile and remodel man!
🤙🏻
Been doing flooring for a while now, i think you did good, the only thing i reccomend is, when you were beating the cut piece with the tounge cleat nailed, you should have used your oscillating tool to cut the nails from underneith, just have the blade flush with the subfloor and cut those nails on the tounge side will save you a lot of time!
How easy do they cut with the oscillator should I use a metal Blade or a carbide one?
“You pick in’ up what I’m putting down?”
- A great man
🤙🏻 thanks for watching!
Nicely done. You can use the handle of a stainless steel table knife and flatten the sharp cut edge. It crushes a tiny micro bevel and keeps the UV finish intact.
🤙🏻
Great video.I never would have thought to cut the bottom of the groove off.
Thanks, it works like a champ!
Wow, that looks clean!!🎉
Thanks
Thanks for posting this!
No problem! Thanks for watching
Very nice. I sent this video to my guys so they know what to do know
Heck yea…that’s Awesome!
For someone about to do something like this now. U made it look easy. Experience
🤙🏻
I have been repairing floors for 20 years this is how I do it.
💪🏼
I plunged a multitool to remove one plank and made a flush cut, and I would like to add a tongue/groove to lock in the edge of the replacement into the existing. Any ideas on how to accomplish it? I would assume that there's a dremel bit of some sort that's available somewhere
I am wondering about how you would do it if there wasn't the crawl space underneath.
Adhesive and set something heavy on it until it sets up
Glue
@@mattyockey9195liquid nails
That’s the way I’ve always done it, nice job!
Right on
Now this is perfection!
Thanks for watching
LOL, love it " You picking up what I'm Puttin Down"
Yessir!
Thanks for posting this! Any recommendations if you can’t access underneath to add screws?
Thanks for watching. A foam construction adhesive and set something heavy on it.
What did you seal it with to match the shine of the other boards
It was the pre-finished floor that matched. I had some left over
Well done
Thanks
Installing new 5/8" wood flooring, some 2" crowns did not go in completely sticking out 1/8" and can't get to it. How to remove without ruining the board?
If it’s tongue and groove, there isn’t a way to get it out without tearing it up
When you said your chisel wasn’t very sharp, it reminded me of what Tom on This Old House said - “All tools are hammers; except chisels. They’re screwdrivers”.
Ha
how to do a replacement when it runs under a range or the cabinetry?
Same but either move the range and f it runs under the cabinet remove the toe kick. Should be able to fix it that way
How long does something like this generally take, and what would you say it would cost to have this completed?
Around 30 minutes? If you have the exact flooring to replace it... I would say 75.00 - 100.00? Thats probably where I would be priced at.
I have enginered hickory on an underlayment over concrete that used Titebond III glue to lock the tongue and groove together.
Whats the best way to replace a board should I ever need to?
Cut as close and parallel to the next board as possible. Modify the new piece on your table saw to fit. Or after you’ve cut it and you’re dead set on tongue and groove staying there, you could get a slot style bit on your router and cut into the next piece a new groove. You won’t be able to do that on the other side though. If you’re a G on your table saw it should be no problem to go without that though because it will fit tight. Glue it down with Pl and put some weight on it for a day or two.
What kind of screws?
GRK cabinet screws preferrably
Is this the recommended way to replace say 20 to 25 pieces of flooring?? The reason I ask is this defeating the purpose of tongue and groove of the wood after all you are removing the groove ??? Or is this only recommended for one piece of wood?
This is a one pc scenario. If the 25 pcs all connect then you could tear out and replace it basically just like you would a new T&G floor. With minor adjustments on the ends.
@@w.k.d.constructionllc the 25 pcs are random and some connected together in a 17 x 26 room installation was done by Lowe’s and the flooring looks crummy and when the come back to replace those pieces I would like to have a idea of the right way it should be done not Butchered
Loved the video! What if I don't have a table saw? What can I use instead to cut the tongue off?
Thanks. You could use a router or a circular saw if you’re confident with one.
What would you do if you couldn’t get under it?
Why is there no vapor barrier under your wood floors ??
How would you put a vapor barrier in even? Engineered hardwood is glued down. If you glue down to vapor barrier then it will just glue to that
This isn’t glued down …. Obviously by watching video .. anyone that installs a glued down floor is adding to their future problem when there is a water leak in kitchen area
@@markbyrd6581 engineered hardwood is not a good option for a kitchen period. What is it then nailed down? Because I have never heard of a click and lock engineered hardwood. Even if is click and lock you would have to fasten it differently when replacing one piece generally glue. Here in Texas almost all our houses are concrete slabs so usually only the second story has a subfloor like this even then I have only ever seen engineered hardwood installed with glue
The builder replaced two damaged boards and now one clicks whenever we step on it. Is there a fix?
🤔 idk. Is it too loose?
It doesn’t look like it.
Good work fellas…
Much appreciated
Thanks for showing how it goes in .sneak
🤙🏻
Put me in Coach, beautiful and thank you 👍🏼
You got it!
Will this fix last. My builder did a bad job of selecting and installing wood and now has to fix 20% of the floor. I asking for a complete replacement but he says he can fix it. I very worried that the fixing will not last 20 years like the first hickory floor did before the fire. What do you think?
Sounds like you have a few extra variables in there!? But,,if it’s done correctly then it should never be an issue!!
Where’s the “gotem coach!” BEAST man!
Ha, this is an old video. Hadn’t found him yet! 😆
Perfect 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
You should have done a close up of what you cut from the new piece because I have do idea
Wood glue won't be enough?
Good idea using the Kreg screws, but did you use any adhesive too? I try to use some wood glue or PL premium if I have it even of i can use nails/screws. Just my 2 cents, awesome work brother keep it up
yessir, turn up the volume a little. lol, I said it right before I stood on it!
eyes open as well... if the good lord has bless ya that way... praise jesus
great video... just found ya on some short thing... it's crazy i already forgot what the short was about?? :((((@@w.k.d.constructionllc
Now I have a strange urge to go install some hardwood
nice, thanks for watching
Hello, what if this was on concrete?
Same process to remove, just have to use an adhesive to stick down to the floor and put something with weight on it until it dries.
@@w.k.d.constructionllcthanks for the reply. Do you hit the bevel with a stain pen or something?
@@jamesmisaak yes, this was natural hickory so I used a tiny bit of clear. Depending on your floor color would determine that.
That's what I was doing wrong, I didn't have a Craig in the crawlspace to screw the groove side down!
😂 it helps!
I can see you have been there, look at the gaps. I like the idea though
🙄
Got it coach
🤙🏻
Amazed at how many ‘flooring contractors/professionals/installers don’t use paper under their wood flooring.
This was a glue assist and my crawl space was conditioned, no need for a paper
Was the fridge too hard to move ! So dumb
Fridge?
Troll comment
Holy moly you sound just like grant cardone lol
🤔
That's not a bad crack. Just fill it with resin, block sand it and recoat it. Fixed in no yime.
It was a check. A large sliver was coming out.
This just reminds me how much I hate the look of hickory floors
😅😅😅👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👍🏿👍🏿😊
🤙🏻
What if u had no crawl space. Give us a universal solution
Instead of using screws from underneath in the crawlspace, just spread some flooring adhesive down first. Add something heavy on top of the new piece to keep it pressed down into the glue until it cures.
Too much work using multi tool use a circular saw(skill saw)
Did you even watch the entire video? 🤔
Actually this is not hardwood flooring. It is laminate prefinished.
Haha, sure buddy. It’s solid hickory
Do yourself a favor and don’t watch your video
🙄 thanks for the comment tho…I guess
Beauitiful
Thank you