Thanks, I am full of nifty sayings. One I tell people a lot when they are getting frustrated with something they are working on is " Don't let it whip you"
On the flipside, the track will behave like one continuous piece of material (although MDF is an incredibly stable material) will behave better with temperature and humidity changes. And given the copper tape or braid used for power will likely be one continuous length, it'd be destructive if he wished to separate it anyway.
I bought a 11/16" router bit, chucked it up in my mini lathe, drilled a 1/8" hole in the end of it Then I epoxied a 1/8"steel rod in the hole. (It only sticks out about 1/4" ). This let me follow the 1/8" groove I had already machined in each piece. Send me an email or text and I will send you a picture of it.
I'm looking for info on building banked turns for 1/48-1/24 racing.. Mostly 1/32, but I'd like a few smaller 1/24 cars to be able to race it.. Is there ANY other way to build a banked turn besides these relief cuts? I could swear I had a VCR tape with a guy who glued a bunch of thinner plywood together..
Not that I know of. The problem with using thinner material is routings the slots. If the material is 1/4” or less you will router bit will go completely through it
@P Huster Easy way to bank 1/2" MDF turn: Just make the turn a few more degrees (of turn) than your design calls for, then squeeze the incoming and outgoing straights together until they fit the design. If the straights are 8 ft or so, a couple of guys can squeeze it and fix it in place, but if they are short, you might need to use a come-a-long. Steve Ogilvie has a formula for working this out precisely, but it's quite complicated, so I just eyeball it and it has worked out great. Of course, if the turn is 90 degrees or less, you just block up the outer edge for banking, so this is only necessary for turns of 90 or more, including donuts. Hope this helps.
I do not like seeing MDF being hammered like that with no "spreader" wood between the face being hit and the hammer. The damage caused is visible. Not good. I am only an amateur but I would never do that. I would also have a spacer in the slots to aid alignment. At 12.15 "That'll do, we're not building watches". Wow!
Mike, Your a Bad Ass !!!! Incredible
Spectacular felicitaciones 👏😊 mis amigos saludos desde Argentina amigo 😊
Awesome work
"Not building watches here." I like that.
Thanks, I am full of nifty sayings. One I tell people a lot when they are getting frustrated with something they are working on is " Don't let it whip you"
check out Luff Linkert's routing aid (and tracks); Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Big mistake gluing it together. Bitch of a job to move it now. No way to tweak adjust the track as it is now a solid unit.
On the flipside, the track will behave like one continuous piece of material (although MDF is an incredibly stable material) will behave better with temperature and humidity changes.
And given the copper tape or braid used for power will likely be one continuous length, it'd be destructive if he wished to separate it anyway.
I'm very interested in having a commercial slot car track built for my new game room I would love to take price layout and availability
How did you rout the recess on either side of the track slot to accept the braid? Thanks much, Mark in Oregon
I bought a 11/16" router bit, chucked it up in my mini lathe, drilled a 1/8" hole in the end of it
Then I epoxied a 1/8"steel rod in the hole. (It only sticks out about 1/4" ). This let me follow the 1/8" groove I had already machined in each piece. Send me an email or text and I will send you a picture of it.
@@michaelwhitley7943thanks much. markabolofia@yahoo.com
I'm looking for info on building banked turns for 1/48-1/24 racing.. Mostly 1/32, but I'd like a few smaller 1/24 cars to be able to race it.. Is there ANY other way to build a banked turn besides these relief cuts? I could swear I had a VCR tape with a guy who glued a bunch of thinner plywood together..
Not that I know of. The problem with using thinner material is routings the slots. If the material is 1/4” or less you will router bit will go completely through it
@P Huster Easy way to bank 1/2" MDF turn: Just make the turn a few more degrees (of turn) than your design calls for, then squeeze the incoming and outgoing straights together until they fit the design. If the straights are 8 ft or so, a couple of guys can squeeze it and fix it in place, but if they are short, you might need to use a come-a-long. Steve Ogilvie has a formula for working this out precisely, but it's quite complicated, so I just eyeball it and it has worked out great. Of course, if the turn is 90 degrees or less, you just block up the outer edge for banking, so this is only necessary for turns of 90 or more, including donuts. Hope this helps.
Using a flat cone calculater app you can design any banked track exactly as you want it. Is there a reason you cant make the relief cuts ?
Using a flat cone calculater app you can design any banked track exactly as you want it. Is there a reason you cant make the relief cuts ?
I do not like seeing MDF being hammered like that with no "spreader" wood between the face being hit and the hammer. The damage caused is visible. Not good. I am only an amateur but I would never do that. I would also have a spacer in the slots to aid alignment. At 12.15 "That'll do, we're not building watches". Wow!