'Old Leaky' The Last Straw - 383 Mopar KICKED on Dyno
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2023
- Nick's Garage Gear Shop
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'Old Leaky' is back for a fourth turn on the dyno. Will Nick finally solve the unsolvable oil leak? Or will this be the end of the road for this classic, numbers matching MOPAR?
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Nick, I am here with you on this one. I was a motor engineer for 35 years and my dad always taught me - "son, if ever you have a problem, try and stick with it until you sort it otherwise you are allowing someone else the opportunity to prove they are better than you. Always, but always strive to be the best! . . Those words of his always resonate with me even to this very day. At almost 68 I still strive to be the best at what I do.
You and I Nick, we sing off the same song sheet. Well done for showing the integrity and proving to us all. . . YOU ARE the best!!
HERE!!!
HERE!!!
@user-wv1pj6wh4h ....YOU ARE OBVIOUSLY MIS-READING AND/OR MISINTERPRETING WHAT IS GOING ON HERE AS NEITHER ONE OF YOUR REPLIES MAKES ANY SENSE WHAT SO EVER.
NONE.
I need to say it folks. We all praise Nick for his hard work and so...but we seem to forget about the narrator who is contributinga a great portion to the atmosphere at Nick's Garage. Kudo's to you sir.
Yeah, very nice work George!💯💯💯
I've always noted that George is very professional number one , but hrs got a kindness as well he brings to the job where he mindfully will let Nick know of a superchat , or suggestions to go to the dyno room and so on . But with Grace he does this job . Of course George has the voice needed to do this job where it brings the audience into Nicks Garage . I'd say Nick scored big having George there and all his hard work with the behind the camera duties he takes on .
Really makes the whole team thing work !
I learned early on that the diagonal knurling on the crank makes a huge difference! The diagonal knurling wipes the oil back towards inside the engine. Seeing the diagonal cuts are not enough. You need to feel them with your fingernail.
The engine sounds strong, I wish I could get up there one day to hear one in person. These old Mopar’s just sound so good. It’s really the old muscle car engines from that era that make feel good when I hear them run. They are so different from the newer wiz-bang computer controlled engines of today. Does anyone else think the same as I do?
No. Nobody ever mentions that. You're unique in that regard. I guess we never considered how much different 50 year old engine technology is compared to modern day engines. 🤔
Yup 👍
@@chrismc.4437I have always been rebuilding Pontiac engines and they all used rope rear main seals, but Butler's performance has some one piece rubber ones... that probably might last awhile... although if it ever needed to be replaced you would have to take the crankshaft out of the block to remove it and reinstall another one, where as with the rope seal it's easier to replace it while it's still in the vehicle... which I always prefer to do!!! GREAT JOB Nick! I'm always watching you up there and I'm glad you are doing so good with your shop!! There's my backup that I have loved on for 45 years now.. a 1964 GTO, 389 Tri-Power, 4 speed M22 Rock Crusher, 4.10 LSD Posi-Trac... Can you get one on the dyno sometime in the future?
Pay attention, young folks. This man is pure *integrity* , the most valuable personality trait a man can posess.
Congrats on your success, Nick. Good on ya.
- Ed on the Ridge
Thank you for your kind comment, Ed. Much appreciated.
@Ed on the Ridge. Exactly. INTEGRITY is indeed the name of the game: Nick shoots straight and doesn’t cut corners.
Nick is my Idol. Iv’e lived MOPAR my entire life, as many watching Nick have. I have ran into leaky MOPAR big blocks many times. At this point I gotta suggest adding ultraviolet dye to the oil, and using a black light to find the leak or leaks. I have found usually a valve cover leaks down the back of the block simulating a rear main seal leak. Or the oil pressure sending unit leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure from a clogged PCV will blow oil out various places. Ultraviolet dye in the oil really helps me diagnose leaks. Nick is the man.
That was more drama than I usually get from a UA-cam video, and the look of concern on Nick’s face, something we’ve not seen before, but in true Hollywood fashion, we had a happy ending. Well done Nick.
the lesson here is that a rope style rear seal is much more permissive than a rupper style seal, I reassembleb many engine that were not in the same condition as this 383 and I never had to redo a leaky seal.
the little difference between the official HP rating and your result can be due to a different barometric pressure.
this is the proof that if you don't give up, you're always finding a solution to any problem.
very good video
Thanks for watching.
Nick looks like Stallone in his prime, the Greek Rambo, LOL. Great job, tenacity, integrity and attention to detail. Semper Fi.
Nick is the Sherlock Holmes of finding all the clues, why an engine isn't working properly, then making sure every detail, no matter how small, is checked and rechecked, to make sure an engine operates properly. great job Nick
Dana "60" Glass. Can't beat the original rope seal, but I think it was the other crankshaft that did it. Factory size and knurl. Great that this saved the number matching motor for the '68 Charger. 383s are great!
Congratulations Nick I had no doubt that you would fix the leak. After fifty years of being a Mopar technician I still use the rope seals.
I said a curse word out loud when I seen the drop of oil. Glad it worked out for you Nick and happy motoring Kendall.
Much Respect! Congratulations! Had me on the edge of my seat rooting for you!
Awesome! Thank you!
To see this man work on UA-cam is such a treat for us but to be able to go to his shop, see it in person, is priceless. I’ll visit again when I’m in Montreal! Hospitality is unrivaled and you’re made to feel right at home….. questions are encouraged and swapping stories is the past time. Definitely go if you ever get the chance… it’s well worth the trip and you won’t regret it. They definitely enjoy the visits every bit as much as we do!💯💯💯 To call it awe inspiring is an understatement.
I've been there and done that, and of course oil all over the clutch assembly...... Fingers crossed never hurt
🤞
Dr. nick, he never gives up, I think we can say Old Leaky is History, awesome work, cheers.
Many thanks!
I wish we could get this kind of commitment to work here, thanks Nick. Thanks for the video George no oil on the camera !
Nick would go nutty trying to make an IH motor leak free.😅
Mine, with a duel lip rear main seal leaked a BIT at highway speeds, ie running around 58 psi at 2800.
Once I started running 15w40 ro tell a it stopped the high rpm leak out of the main seal.
Great job Nick!!❤
Nicks videos should be shown in schools. Just a thought. My dad didn't like dual points. He showed me how to set, no problem, I really didn't understand why my dad disliked yet he was a Chevy man. The time we spent together was great turning wrenchs. ❤👍😄😎
Been waiting to see how this turned out.
Right! Imagine how the owner feels.
Bin watching this one from the start couldn't stop watching so cool how Nick went step by step this is why everyone comes to him because he is honest and cares about what he is doing
That Old 383 Leaky Curse, has been broken. All you needed was a rope! LOL 😂 You are the best Nick! A true investigator of mechanics.
My heart is in my throat! I Know how hard Nick has worked on this engine. Pray everything works for him!
Good job Nick .. that 383 sounds healthy . Thanks for taking us along for the ride
Another example of Nick's work...stick with it until it's done...Done Right...George great video, and supreme editing....wm
Glad you enjoyed it.
Great call on the rope seal! Sometimes old school wins out over newer technology. Excellent video, Nick! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I had a 1968 Furry 111 with a 383 commando and it performed very similar to this one. Most reliable car I ever owned. It had a 2:73 limited slip and got low 20,s crushing hywy speeds but got less than 1 mpg open throttle racing 😂. Shame the new junk will never last as long as what you work with.
I love the sound of that 383 and they were such a reliable engine!
I remember back in the late 90s meeting a gentleman in my home town of Adelaide in South Australia who had an Australian built A body Valiant with a modified 383 and he took off from his workshop with three 100 kilo plus big boys as passengers and did a first and second gear power burnout, no brakes, that left two thick black marks on the road! Mind you the rear tyres were road legal 265 drag radials👌
That 383 was a monster 💪
I love your channel Njikos👍
Mopar forever👍👍👍
Congratulations, Nick. Those nagging, persistent problems are the worst. It's hard to ever believe they're actually fixed.
Gotta hand it to Nick. He never gives up. 😊
My Uncle was a respected engine builder back in the day. He would say " If you wanted it to leak one drop a day, how would you do it?"
I can certainly understand Nicks frustration with that 383 leaking like it was. As I have an old Ford 3.0L V6 that has an annoying leak, and a leaky engine is enough to make a person invest in Rogaine. Congrats Nick, as sometimes you just have to go old school to fix things.
Yea Nick, glad you fixed that seal problem. Awesome job.
The PCV circuit will actually create a negative pressure inside the crankcase. When disconnected, the crankcase internal pressure becomes the atmospheric pressure or a little above if piston blow by exist. That will promote oil leaks somewhat. When reconnected, the crankcase pressure becomes negative again.
This why I connected it to the carb.
Went from Ol leaky to No leaky and it runs and sounds good as well. I think we all learned a thing or 2, great job Nick!
That 383 in corporate blue looks soooo good! Sounds fantastic too 😎👍
Blue on top, and green on the bottom😂
I wonder if one of the videos Nick mentioned something I was taught a long time early years in this mechanic by my dad, you take a small boat peen hammer in and where the bolt-holes are you kept the metal back so it's either that or you can tap it a little further back so when it tightens up it snags up real nice.
Thanks for sharing a memory of your dad.
Mr. drippy is back once again, and I'm betting that Nick will fix the leaky rear main seal for good. If the rope seal won't fix the issue, it's time for a new block. I've been anxious to see this final attempt at saving this numbers matching 383 block. Here we go!!
Mr Drippy. Haha. Sounds like a terrible shop teacher. Great to see you again, Eugene. ❤️
@@NicksGarage Thank you George, I'm just so happy that Nick finally fixed Mr. Leaky. Nick's Spartan blood wins out in the end. A true Spartan never gives up. I know that Kendal will be happy now that he will have his numbers matching block back again. Great video George! I loved the camera work, the music, and especially the outcome.
... Hello Eugene. Love it. The Spartan that will not give up.@@eugenecastles7475
It doesn't necessarily mean the block is the culprit , it could be the crank .
@@NicksGarage Sounds like a bad uncle bonzo experience
Or a commercial for flomaxx
Way to go Nick !!!! Glad to see it holding and ready to head out the shop ....Should we have a going away party for Ol Leaky ? Lolololol....Take It Easy ...
We will miss the cookies, though.
@@NicksGarage LOLOLOLOL, I know yall will !!!!!
When I was a young man I had a 69 Coronet 500 with 383 love that engine.
Nick's the man..a REAL mechanic..great job
You got it Nick, Congratulations 😊!
Yes! Thank you!
A Turquoise Blue Chrysler 383 will alays have a warm place in my heart! Thank you, Nick, for showcasing this beast.
I always look forward to your videos. Well edited and very informative. Love the channel. I guess because i have a 1973 Dodge Charger Rallye 440 ci. I bought it in 1976. It needs a rebuild and your channel motivates me. I learn a lot from your tear downs and rebuilds.
Perserverence in the face of failure/disappointment is what separates the men from the boys. Good Job Nick! Keep these dream Mopars running strong.
Congratulations Professor Nick!!! And THAT, boys and girls, is why us fans watch Nick's Garage with such interest and intensity.
Perseverance=Prosperity. The Dribbler looks like it's finally done.
Love it.
Greetings from South Carolina Nick & crew!!! Way to hang tough& not giving up! Old SCHOOL RULES!!!😉👍✌️
Thank you! ❤️
Nick your hard work paid off. Can’t fix problems if you aren’t willing to put in the sweat equity. Congratulations!!!! - John
Come on rope seal!!!! I've told sooo many people on Facebook about this show, with great feedback. No one doesn't absolutely love it.
That is very cool. Thanks.
The force was strong with this one!
Our only hope.
@@NicksGarage my 66 Plymouth belvedere has a oil pan leaking going to fix it over the winter!! Other than that it's a great running car!
@@SnowMan68hi
I owned one of those cars.
Drove it up and down the east coast going to Grateful Dead concert back in the mid eighties.
I live in northern Colorado and it's beautiful up here and I have been driving it all over lol
Congratulations Nick. I am glad that it is fixed and ready to install. Another Old MOPAR will be hitting the street. It’s been good to watch the drama of old leaky. But better to see it high and dry. Thanks Nick for another great video. 😁
Rope seals even though old school is still the best for certain applications. I wish we could take freshly cast blocks and throw them outside for a year so it can twist and cool and right itself. And then machine it to factory specs. Jeez sounds like something that was done a hundred years ago by a great manufacturer, Duesenberg!! Great Videos Thank You 🙏
Another job well done Nick!! The 383 sounds terrific. Glad to see the rope seal did the trick. Awesome !!
The rope seal can be packed in to tighten the fit around the crank. We use to do it in the car for the leaking seals on 383's 400 and 440's. We also changed the main bearings in the car because a loose bearing will make the seal leak.
Thank you very much for the shirts!!! they are great!!!!
Glad you like them!
Yes you got it !!! Thanks for the share !!! Leaky is done !!! 383 charger 68 is back and no leaks !!!!
Right on.
Nick, that one drop of oil, was a tear of happiness, as it knew, it would never leak again, ha ha ha
Nick, I have an Olds 455 (462) that leaked badly with an aftermarket Ford circumferential seal. I did the same fix that you did, installed an original-type offset rope seal and grooved crank, and it worked. No more leak. Thank goodness...
Whew!!!! Nick is probably like, ‘well, FINALLY!!!!!’ But his persistence and determination has once again, paid off. Congrats, Nick and know that you are a shining example to all who watch your triumphs, trials and tribulations. Kudos to you sir!!!!!
Nick, when I was still a teenager, I did several Buick 455s and an Olds Rocket 350. I used a 1-3/4" socket used for the MoPar crankshaft bolt, to "work" the rope seals into the block and caps before cutting the seals to length. I left the seals a little long for some tension at their parting line. The Olds startled me when the engine would barely turn, it was late and I went to sleep, planning on disassembling the cap and trimming the seal the next morning. It turned fine the next day! I guess the seal conformed on it's own. This was in the late '80s and that Rocket is still running great! Those Buick engines never leaked, but I have since began using lip seals from TA Performance in Arizona on Buicks that I build, for less friction and a modern way of sealing. Love your perseverance on the 383 LEAKER!!
Nick, you're probably the best that ever was or will be on MOPAR......and you must know that these engines leaked oil.....new from Chrysler. My grandad loved MOPARS as much as anyone and bought many over the years.....and his one beef was that they always leaked a little at the rear main seal.
Thanks for your very kind comment and the memory of your grandfather.
Looks like success at long last . The rope seal is the only one that can conform to the crankshaft seal surface in cases where there is the case of a line bored block . Upper and lower rope allows conformity to crank where no other seal can . Nick is also on target about the lower half of a modern lip seal splaying out from distortion once assembled . I say great results , and determination to resolve an issue is the key to a shop worthy of anyone's business . Lastly , do not overlook the benefits of some of the older technology that had been used for years and years without any problems .
A job well Done !! I'd have to say one more thing that I would have shut down the 383 while tightening the oil pan bolts ..😮
One little mistake can be very unfortunate,
Scott in So Cal
Thanks for keeping us safe, Scott.
It might work initially, but over time, it won't. Just like cork gaskets. It might seal up right away, but next year it will drip.
There's a reason why the manufacturers don't use those types of seals and gaskets anymore.
Well . Rope seals were used by OEM manufactures for a very long time up into the 1970s engines Ford especially used rope seals also . I agree it's an old type of sealing . But I'm pretty sure as a mechanic of 45 years who did service so many of these engines from many manufacturers that Rope seal leaks were never a prevalent problem . They worked pretty well . In this 383 application of having to go with the OEM style rope seal , it's the only repair that's viable for this numbers matching engine . We can speculate as to if it will leak down the road or not . Today it's fixed and that's the goal in the end .
Regards
@scottrance-im7xz This is the first time I've ever seen a neoprene seal not work. I guess that line boring did more harm than good.
I started wrenches in the early 80's. Me thinks that the seasoned mechanics gave me those rear main seal jobs because they were filthy, I was an apprentice, and didn't know any better.
I never had a comeback, pulling out a rope and replacing it with a neoprene. Guess Nick's luck is quite different.....
Oh I agree , once the neoprene seals showed up we tossed the ropes out and used them
Instead . I've had a few LA chrysler small blocks and many small block chevy neoprene seal wear out and leak . We started offsetting chevy seal halves in the block and main cap to help stop the leaks with neoprene . Same exact procedure Nick has demonstrated many times on building his engines . Line boring as Nick has made clear in this 383 final video is the problem . So in normal circumstances none of us would use a rope seal today . But heres a case study situation where that was his only option. It's up to the owner of the engine to decide to attempt to fix an issue that resulted from a common machine shop practice that has ruined many blocks . Line hone has replaced the line bore , but even at that you want to avoid having this done . If the block is so messed up it needs a line bore , again find a good block . Nick had to fix this numbers matching engine , otherwise he'd have also got another block .
Regards
Great job Nick....the old rope seal technology come through
I hope Canada recognizes Nick as the NATIONAL TREASURE he really IS!!!
Wow thanks. 🇨🇦
This is an awesome channel but it takes a lot of work to keep that high benchmark as we have seen. Thanks for sharing the struggles as well as the wins!
Thanks for watching!
Well done Nick. What is happening with the RT Charger?
It’s moving forward at the body shop. We’re dying to see it too.
Congratulations Nick, perseverance wins!!!! Have to rename it as "No Leaky 383" !!!!!!
You Da Man !! Mopar Fanatics Rejoice !! Nick , I am always amazed at what you do. I'm thinking about bringing you a 470 Molar to just see what you can do for it.
With a problem like old leaky, I would remove the flywheel and lower the back of the block then pump oil into the oil system at the oil sender with an accumulator or dry sump pump. Any leaks will show up and you will see the location.
Proof that never giving up equals results most times!
Congrats Nick mopar Master! Zero leak 383💪mopar muscle ❤
I don’t know where this one is going because I’m at the beginning of this video, but I love those 383 mopars…..Had one in a Plymouth fury in 1963, it was very fast, I don’t know where the top end was somewhere north of 130. A family car. Thanks Nick
Nice work Nick, perseverance payed out and going back to the old rope seal, bravo.
Huge fan of the channel and you Nick!
Love classic Mopars!
Bill B
Pure Michigan
Thank you !
Hi Nick, my name is Eduardo F. from Patagonia Argentina. I really enjoy your videos and your teachings.
I had a similar experience with a Ford 302 in which I tried several brands of two-piece rear seals, and also rope seal, but the leak kept appearing, I had the same problem that you had with this blessed 383. The solution I found was to make a modification in the seal housing and grind the crankshaft to the necessary size, to adapt a one piece rear seal from the 5.0L Fords from the years 82 onwards. I was able to solve the problem satisfactorily but I have had a battle similar to the one you had, I saw your face in the videos when the loss reappeared and it was the same feeling that I suffered when I was in that situation. Today I can continue enjoying my old Econoline without leaks. A big hug and I really enjoy your videos.
I would appreciate it so I could feel more comfortable if you could make the Spanish translation option available. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your kind comment. We didn't even realize that we could make other languages available. This video now has the box checked for Spanish subs, and we will be adding more in the near future. 👍
When I was building Pontiacs I used 2 shops for main saddle work when needed. 1 line bored. The other line honed. I chose line bore when mains had bad damage like spun mains. Always used a rope seal after 1 leaked. But for line honing I never had issues with modern main seals. Thanks for video. As always very informative and real world stuff. It's appreciated. Just a note. These were rare ram air blocks, restorations and such. So like you, we tried our best to retain and use the matching blocks and heads.
Way to go Nick. Interesting color, your seal. The ones that I've installed were much darker. Dark brown, almost blackish, like chewing tobacco. The ones I used were impregnated with something. Felt sticky to touch. I never soaked them before installation. After I get them bedded I coat the face of the seal with a wipe of LUBRIPLATE 105. Not a grease or a paste. A film lubricant. Works for me.
Before the days of making cork gaskets with rubber in them.
I used to spray silver paint on the cork gaskets. Then leave them over night to dry.
This would stiffen them up quite a bit. Never had oil leak through them. Could Tighten them down bit more without squashing the gaskets. Bolts didn't seam to loosen off at all.
Steve from NZ.
Finally Nick no leaks, I bet the knurl on the crank and that old school rope seal were what that 383 needed Nick & George great video yet again thanks.
Fingers crossed, Blinkie. Take it easy!
For sure & thanks Nick and you too.
Ye-haa!!!
I’m certain the replacement crank with good knurling was a big help also! That original was ‘iffy’ from the start as you speculated early on with “Old Leaky”
😎
Contgrats Nick -
And the dyno numbers look pretty good since it was set up as a 410 CI engine!
Nick, your persistence and commitment is commendable !
I missed it last week, I'm just heading to New Jersey and San Diego, what else is new, and driving a 4 wheel drive 2500 suburban to Houston Illinois then New York
Oof. We don't envy your fuel bill.
Wish you all the best,can't wait to see how it is in a couple of years, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
I knew you would get it Nick OLD SCHOOL BABY
Your average V-8 will always run an oil temperature hotter than coolant temperature. At a minimum, 230 degrees when warmed up completely. I installed an oil temp gauge in the bottom of the oil pan of my parent's new 1971 Plymouth Road Runner (383 auto) and found it took much longer to heat the crankcase oil than the coolant. Believe it ran about 240 degrees cruising down the freeway.
Back in the day when I was young and a motor head, if I had any kind of fluid leak I would add about a ounce of dye. Using the correct light and some yellow glasses the dye would pinpoint the leak. This is of coarse after running for awhile. It worked in the engine, trans, radiator, differential.
I had a 380 three, and a road owner, and 1972 had a lot of miles on it. Never leaked and I outrun people. I didn't think I could outrun.
Yassoo Dr Nick.
Steve from Adelaide Australia tuned in
Right on, Steve. Thanks for joining us.
Great outcome!! I enjoyed watching the series on this engine.
Well done Nick! If the owner of the engine is anything like me when I did my rope seal in a 383,I think it was every day for a month I looked under the car until i was convinced it was good to go.
The 383 and 340 AVS have smaller primaries (as you know) than the 440 AVS, which has the same throttle blades all around. A common upgrade used to be adding the 440 AVS to these smaller engines, or a Marine 750 AFB with the same pri/sec bores.
It may take a while for the rope seal to become saturated enough to stop any leak . Good luck Nick and crew. I have no doubts that you will figure it out.
So far, so good!
I think that the reason they went away from rope seals is because they were known to leak. My fingers are crossed in Edmonton
@@dannypeter6565only if they aren't installed properly. I've restored many vintage cars and as long as you allow enough material to be forced into the groove they don't leak. Leaks come from insufficient rope length and poor installation
Still used in the marine industry as they are more reliable than "rubber" seals
It's time to scrap the block...
Rope seals are already saturated, impregnated with graphite, PTFE and/or silicone lube. They have to be because of the friction for what they do as long as they do. If any new seal leaks it is because of insufficient and irregular clamping forces and alignment which creates voids for static and pressurized fluids to enter and bypass. Installing rope seals properly is paramount just as it is for any part/attachment on any machine.
Evenin Mr George an Mr Nick!! I bet you got it:) Have a Great week!!
Thanks, you too! Great to see you again.
Ya had us on edge, George. One of the best videos to come out. Love it! I'll say it again, Nick's got this.
Nick, with your perseverance you made that engine right. Now it can be known as the fixed 383.
I'm glad you finally got it fixed. Just hope it holds.
I have to say, that's a beautiful looking engine !
GREAT WORK NICK!!!!!!
I relate how you feel about this Nick. Excellent work!