Ferrari 308 Rebuild - Fighting the Rust Monster
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- After discovering a major issue with my Ferrari 308 Project, I set about trying to somehow fix the nightmare
For 308 Panels or Any Fabrication Metalwork: shop.atlantic....
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Every other mechanic in the world: steel toed boots
Scott: Adidas flip flops 🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂
Scott and Alan Millyard
Brilliant work Scott as that rust looked really serious however great approach to strip back and restore with new panels - well done 👍
Im a flip flops guy myself ( cant get on with sliders) but I have the utmost respect for a brother-in-arms who does metal work in open toed shoes. Its so liberating. A real sense of freedom. Keep up the ace work brother👍
Also recommend you use POR-15 to coat your steel after you have applied a rust converter to it. POR-15 dries rock hard and doesn't come off, which is good for an area like the rear end of the vehicle which is likely to see stones, etc. thrown up at the underbody during driving.
watching a porsche restoration where he uses this on multiple parts
Ok good shout 👍🏻
there is a product called rust buster you spray it on a couple of times it neutralizes the rust and seals it then you can paint over it so when you have done the repairs put it in a pump spray bottle spray it in all the nooks and crannies and over the finished job let dry undercoat it and paint it i would suggest you then buy cavity wax in a spray can with the long tube and spray inside all of your chassis for good measure.the heat side ebay uk powerlite gold reflective thermal barrier heat shield sheet you can also get the tape to stick it on with also keep on truckin mate cheers from down under
There is a paint the MOD/NATO use that converts rust to a solid bonded surface called Aqusteel (Made in UK) , is even salt water proof, so if you paint the whole back end metalwork once you stripped down, will help preserve the frame if you end up with water traps again. When I have found water traps, I just drilled through them and then Aquasteel the parts, so water drains. Go Magmashield for the heat shield , check out Textile technologies (all items in UK)
Scott. Nice to see that your viewers love you!! Shout out for the guys who helped!
OMG, that 360 looks like a HumVee compared to the 308. One of the many reasons why I prefer classic sports cars over the newer stuff.
In the US we've got access to a product called Lizard Skin, which is offered as both a ceramic heat shield and a sound insulator. You wouldn't need to worry about sound in the trunk. It's basically sprayed in with a shutz gun. Might be just the ticket for the topside of this project.
There is also Dynamat as mentioned below, which is an asphalt product with a metal back which is self adhesive. It's a great product, but I think a spray on would do a better job of encapsulating everything without gaps to allow water in.
it was used on the V8 miata that Tom's garage did a few years back here on YT if you want to see what it does and its application
Two Suggestions from the rust belt in the U.S . My favorite products from Amazon WEN 6307 Variable File Sander 1/2-by-18". Then treat your bear metal with Ospho 605 Metal Treatment.
Loads of work but well worth it and nice to see the viewers with the knowledge and experience helping out 👍👍
This is really cool ! I guess that is probably the most scary thing for an amateur to attempt. So this is very interesting for anyone considering chopping out any rusty pieces. As ever, you approach it calmly and logically. No drama. Makes it look attemptable for us mortals watching
Sometimes you just have to take a deep breath and dive in! Well done on taking the plunge. I'm sure it will look great when it's done and give you peace of mind.
Oh Scot..... one of those jobs where your head has got to be in the right place to tackle this. The further you look the more you find, the more you find the more optimistic you need to be. I guess you’re very optimistic 👍. Well done mate.
happyknight international man of mystery thanks for the kind words. The way I get though these moments is I focus and picture the end result in my mind. Then tackle one element of the build at a time
If you don’t mind a bit of noise, fit some nimbus triple layer. I put that on the elise race car when I rebuilt it. You mine want to put some spacer to limit aluminium/steel contact and where it cannot be avoided, put a coat of duralac.
Use hard closed cell foam panels as similar to those used for house construction. Should be able to find a thickness that meets your needs. The beauty of closed cell foam is it does not absorb water. Multiple layers of Dynamat will also work.
power wash out with Citrus rust remover... clean wash out .... dry with heat gun. "Pour15" rust inhibitor - dry with heat gun.... paint with rino liner and clear coat it. as for the panel replacement....oem from another donnor car seal up area with proper rust inhibitor and as far as - heat shielding - dyna matt but its very heavy also since it will be a high heat area might look into other heat reflecting insulation.
As someone suggested below, could try Celotex for the insulation, it's closed cell foam with foil both sides and comes in varying thickness and is easily cut to shape/size, could save you a lot of time and money.
Great vid, nice to see so many people willing to help out, cant wait for next clip....
I accidentally left the windows cracked on my '74 corvette, and of course there was a downpour. the foil-backed foam insulation under the carpet was glued to the floor and Would. Not. Dry. Out. So ripped it all out, and went back with just some carpet insulation mat, left loose, so that all I need to do is pull up the sill plates and pull it out from under the carpet if I ever make a boneheaded move with the windows again. Its not perfect, but it works. Point being, whatever type of insulation you use, try to make it easily removable to so that it can be dried out if disaster strikes. I've used Styrofoam installation in my house instead of the Pink Panther, in case of leaks. Whoever put that fiberglass insulation into the Ferrari was trying to kill it.
Good call 👍🏻
The Ferrari community is more like family and the all want to help this is awesome
I think some Dynamat or other tar-based with foil on one side would be a great insulator, there are varying levels and brands for this type of heat shielding and insulation, and the sound deadening is great. I've lined many interiors with it and it makes a HUGE difference, and provides good heat protection.
Sheet metal liner, fiberglass bucket boot you can remove. Proper clean, and prime, once clean I'd have it sprayed with truck bed liner, or proper rubber undercoating.
I don’t know how you can be arsed. I struggle to get into the mood to change discs and pads lol and pay my mate instead.
You do motivate me I won’t lie, but I’m still very lazy when it comes to hands on now, not good!
You’ve persuaded me to get to my lock up and pic up the discs and pads for my Alfa Spider
rezaq1 I think it’s the initial push to get up and start the job. Once you are doing it, it becomes quite satisfying
Ratarossa yeah agreed! It’s the push for me, I never used to be this bad. My brother is the complete opposite on all our Alfa’s and Ferrari’s.
I don’t mind detailing, and can happily detail an interior or body for hours, but I’ve lost the interest in changing mechanical parts, even though I have so, so many new tools lol.
Bad, I know. But I did go to the lock up to collect rear discs and pads, a lambda sensor, front pads and some genuine Alfa NOS bits for my Zoe yellow Spider lol. Thanks, Scott
Big fan of the safety footwear. I use similar for those jobs but when the angle grinder comes out I put some ear protection on to stop my ears from ringing for days after. And a mask as the rust dust and old paint can get in your longs.
Great job Scott , really enjoy these Videos , you had a lucky break with those panels 👍😎
Well done I can’t wait to see it finished!
MIne went on the underside of the side groove, behind the wheels, & at the base of the flying buttresses where they join the wing. Oh, & the inside of the expansion tank. That said, I never took the boot trim out.
You're welcome Scott!! 😁😁👍
Fantastic tag-team from the 308 community there. Carry on!
Scott how cool is it that your viewers could make some parts up for you. Maybe one of them is a welding expert ! Project is coming along nicely. Don't forget the weld through primer !
The aluminium panel caused the metal bar to rust due to galvanic corrosion Put a barrier between the aluminium and metal to make sure there is no electrical contact between them to prevent this (or don't use aluminium).
WD40 rust remover or Evapo Rust would be very helpful.They only remove rusty metal and work very well for areas not being replaced and more effective than grinding in hard to access areas.
Well done Scott! Great to watch your progress. Always interesting and entertaining.
- If you're just trying to clean rust off fairly sound steel, I'd be media's blasting it, or using a wire wheel on the grinder, not a flap disc. Flap discs can remove a lot of metal if you're a bit too keen. Me and my mates use flap discs to dress down welds or chamfer box to give a good surface for weld penetration. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but you're working on Ferraris. We're working on clubman rally & autosolo cars. Not as valuable. Oh, and keep working to persuade that bloke to part with the 512 BBI. Good luck.
Cover your other cars when grinding mild steel so it doesn’t oxidise on the paint work 👍
Or pit the glass..😕
Would second this; cover everything in sight! The sparks landing on any surface including glass will ruin it. They can travel a fair way in outdoor environment too. Don’t ask me how I know this ;)
Great content Scott, keep doing the jobs correctly, you won't go far wrong
Hi @Ratarossa maybe have a look at Dynamat products like "the Hoodliner" or the "Dynaliner", they have the descriptions and characteristics on their website. Another solution would be to go for something cheaper and build a box of thin metal has a boot and have the cheap material as separator instead of metal connecting to hot metal.
The first choice might be the better one. Maybe write them an email and ask because of the different thickness of materials they have.
Thanks for the videos.
Some great ideas 👍🏻
Dynamat inside the boot... With the euro exhaust I imagine it had no insulation. The cats triple the heat and the spacing on the US system was tight to the chassis with no airgaps. The heat shield alone will suffice.
nice cheers Kurt appreciate your knowledge on this
Loving the safety flip flops😂.great content as per👍🏻
Health and safety sliders, the latest thing. Nice work 👍🏻
Goonzquad approved ‘flops’ that’s ‘legit’ Scott dude!
It terrifies me. I don't set foot in the workshop without the DeWalts on 😁
Howard Miller nice bit of product placement there.....other safety boots are available 😂😂
@@markbennett6658 It's what **Screwfix** sell 😁
Go to the scrape yard and get a heat shield from a back pan of mondeo or similar as they are big and soft to.put above the exhaust and the surronds apply Gold foil like Tavarish used in the Lambo
For heat shield (assuming you don't need acoustic as well) Google "Nimbus heat shield". Its quite expensive (I think you can get cheaper copies), but it worked well on my Lotus Elise.
Great work. These jobs always turn out harder than you first think. Great channel. Very informative
True example of "karma" here. This man puts so much time into debunking these amazing yet very costly cars.....the universe returns this kindness with kindness....and key parts! Well deserved!
Somehow satisfying to see all that rust banished. I've been waiting for this one.
meant to post this to the NEXT video
Love to see a 308 getting some proper attention. With the non-structural parts at least, had you explored having them re-made out of less rust-prone materials? (I see that your machinist friend used stainless for the parts he built, so those will have much longer life.) Stainless or aluminum might go a long way to prevent it happening again in the future.
Amazing work, would it not be possible to cut all the old steel away and make an aluminium frame from new? Would save weight and future proof from rust too.
You wouldn’t be able to weld it to the rest of the steel body though. And you could have a galvanic reaction where it meets the steel.
@@ericjenks9596 No need to weld, bolt, or worry about galvanic corrosion. 3M makes products for bonding aluminum to steel which also would separate the two metals called panel bond. It also offers corrosion protection.
@@chuckr9496 It would be regarded as a bodge and destroy any future value of the car.
Look for an adhesive backing heatshield you can find it At most automotive shops or Amazon. I use it to block out the heat from headers on the Racecar’s foot box. The driver likes it lol
Keep up the good work... Its a long process but will be worth it!
por 15 coating works great to prevent rust
Good to see the end of that aluminium chequer plate. I hate that stuff! 😂 New panels look great.
Good progress, it will be worth it in the end. Thanks
Great video chap. Really liking this project.
Use nimbus for heat insulation.
I think you ought to do the complete restoration. Rip it to parts, sandplast it and do it the right way. It is worth it. All things are not measured with money.
Great to see you back.
The best heat insulation is a product called Fibrefrax which is a wovern ceramic material available from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty in the USA.
Top video, although I did think that a tiny hot air balloon had landed on your driveway at about 4mins in! :)
Closed cell spray foam. Put a fire barrier in and then spray foam on top. Will not absorb water
She's looking good and getting better with every step
keep up the hard work ! great progress !
Really fascinating films... keep em coming!!!
Absolutely fascinating.
Very nice of your subscribers to knock that up for you. I wouldn’t do it for my brother lol
24 carat gold for the heat shield!!!
You beat me to it!
Carat
Or he could ceramic coat it, a bit pricey though!
Yeah, Tavarish used it on his Lamborghini.
Good grief, what a project, that is some serious work going on there, and its not the fun stuff!! But its going to be so satisfying once its done though.....Kudos to you for taking it on!!
Great work, I feel terrible thinking I actually called this car salvage once
Vitesh Sewnarain dude it pretty much was at one point. But they make the best most satisfying projects 👍🏻
Your neighbours just nicked a goal post😂
I didn’t see that until I watched the footage 😂😂
@@Ratarossa a home goal??!! ;)
Look at my comment on last video suggest looking at silent coat or dynamat both do heat proof sound insulation that doesn't absorb water I ve used both in underbonnet bulkhead situations reflect heat and stop vibration 👍
Just a thought - you may need to do something to prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel and the new aluminium parts, could they be bonded instead of direct metal to metal contact - if left with even slight moisture and ali/steel contact, you could end up with more corrosion than you started with. Maybe Sikaflex??? Or the adhesives Lotus stick Evoras together with??? Not being a clever git, just the first thing that occured to me. Even slight moisture/condensation over time will cause eventual rot.
Fly @samcrac over he will panel bond the whole car together : )
Yes very good point thanks for the advice
For heat shield, just put additional thin plate and have an air gap, just like window double glazing. Air is a bad conductor of heat.
Enjoying this build 😀👍
Just a quick comment have to admit that I had no idea how small the 308 was when sitting beside your 360 from above.
Well done Scott, you indeed have your work cut out 🚒👍
Brother you have balls to take this on. You da man!!!😃👍🏼
Hi. For insulation look at a product like Celotex. I used to work on ISO Tankcontainers and we used this product for areas around the valves. It's easy to cut and waterproof. There may be other products similar, but this kind of insulation board should be ok. Love the videos :)
Great, do you think it would be ok in the heated area ?
@@Ratarossa It was used on tankcontainers which could be carrying products that would be heated to around 220 degrees C. I think there are other products similar to this. Wickes do something similar and it's not expensive. It will have a Data Sheet, too.
Blokes who helped you - total kudos!
treat cleaned steel with phosphoric acid then paint 3 coats good gloss paint
Love your channel, great to see things done right... keep going bro...
Great to see you tackling something that can daunt the best home mechanic rust is always my least favourite job to start but is always worth it in the end great job good riddance to that checker plate too 👍
Dynamat and Dynaliner. Worked great for my sagging Stradale headliner.
Perfect I will check them out
That 308 is a driver at best getting better indeed
That was really great that a viewer made those parts!
Did the factory does a series of spot welds and then uses some sealant (like a hard rubber) to put things together? Not sure about how Ferrari did it. The nicest thing would be to TIG seam weld it, but it's a ton of work.
Yes they did, it was all spot welds and sealer
I agree with an earlier comment Lizzard Skin ceramic coating for heat and sound deadening.
What comes around goes around Scott, when you have good Karma good comes back to you. As far as helping others is concerned I don't know of too many people that will travel across the Atlantic to Florida on their own dime to help another You Tuber with their Ferrari problems.
My BMW has that exact same window mirror control, and it has a similar defrogger. Look up BMW e28 defogger / defroster switch.
Looking good mate
Nice progress.
that is one chunk of work, but well worth it. Nice!
You need a compressor so you can run a small hand-held grinder and band sander to get all the tight spots 😉 trust me it will help you no end. I bought a secondhand 15cfm compresser for 130 quid .
Neighbours just love that
You may want to cover the engine bay for grinding. Lots of rusty dust getting in hard to clean places.
Yes that’s a good point
Great for people to come together to save these cars..
thermotec heat shielding is really good
Wear a mask when grinding, please
The drone shot at the beginning amazes me every time ... the difference between the sizes of both Ferrari’s 😳
The size differene between the two cars is incredible.
Garage extension storage and work shop keep going lad
Instead of spending a bunch of time and money trying to insulate the car from heat from the exhaust maybe treat the exhaust itself with a ceramic coating or heat wrap. You can also try making heat shields out of aluminum as metal plus an air gap makes a great heat shield.
Sheet aluminum would work. Just need to isolate it do you don’t get galvanic action.