Trick I’ve learned working for a Detroit dealer for years is on a 60 you can turn it over till all the came lobes of each cylinder are facing out and you can do all valves and the injector for that cylinder. Pretty cool trick.
I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed your build videos. They were very good at explaining and why it was important. One thing I couldn't believe was how much metal was in your oil pan. That's nuts. Someone left those chunks in the pan, probably building the top and didn't want to crack open the pan. Anyway. Thanks for the videos, very much appreciated sir.
Just watched the series of your in frame. Learned a lot, and am impressed that you did it in your driveway. I’m sure plenty of folks wouldn’t have tried it without a shop. My hat’s off to you, and thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
She sounds great and I'm giving you an A+++ on the rebuild and video series ! We have to go in the morning to work on a 2005 Detroit Diesel 60 series that's getting diesel fuel in the antifreeze so your video's were very helpful and keep up the great work Gordon !
Awesome job well done Mr Gordon I rebuilt my cummins 350 big cam about 8 months... Love to see that we have something in common were not afraid to get greasy. Let's keep on trucking buddy
Hi Gordon, I have watched and learned from your videos, Thank you so much for taking the time to share what know with others, You are a hard working man, I admire you my friend. By the way your motor sounds great.
so i went on you tube looking for someone who has rebuilt a 60 series detroit.....then i find your video with your detroit having the exact same issue as mine in the exact same cylinder. i couldnt ask for a better detailed and informative video.....by the way, every time i hear your voice it reminds me of johnny cash. thanks for efforts, they are appreciated.
Thanks for the comment. I never thought I could sound like Johnny Cash, I cant sing, if you like Johnny Cash you should look at UA-cam for a Mexican kid from California about 16 yrs old who sounds exactly like him, I forgot his name but just put in "sounds like Johnny Cash"
i found the videos. his name is vince mira. i do like johnny cash and that young man is very impressive. thanks for the tip. i look forward to your videos. i have never had a 60 series apart and was looking to see what i could learn about the internals before i tore it down. your explanation and attention to the details was a great help. i will be tearing it down soon. i was amazed at how low the cost of machine work and parts were compared to cummins and cat engine i have done. thanks again.
Thanks for following and for the comments. Yes it is a lot of money saved (about $10,000) but I have to look more at how much money spent ($4000) because I was trying to save money to pay taxes when this happened, so I can't pay taxes at all 'till after I pay back the personal loans that got me through this and chew down the credit cards a little bit.
I ran my first Detroit 60 series in a 1989 Freightliner. And ran a lot of them after that. Always laughed when the guys talked about how bad they were when pulling. But if they learned how to run one. They would pull like crazy. I always pulled them down to 1200 or even 1150. And it was like they would get a second wind. And never give up pulling.
Its awesome to see it running, well done and I hope it gives you a million miles trouble free. One thing about the injector measurement it seems somewhat subjective to me.
The injector height is the same as the ignition timing on a gas engine, the injectors are submerged in a preset pressurized bath of fuel, they have an inlet screen on the side that is submerged in the pressurized fuel, the computer sends a precise timed, (not timed so much when, but how long) signal to the injector to lift a magnetic plunger just long enough to load the injector with the correct amount of fuel before the cam strikes the injector at the precise time, the precise time, (firing the injector) is determined by the height adjustment, the amount of fuel injected is determined by the length of time the magnetic plunger is lifted by the computer signal. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for asking.
Good aftemoon, thank you very much for your video. Please write what kind of oil pressure you have shows after the repair. You are just fine! The real driver!
Based on my service manual you are adjusting the injector height on the wrong cylinder whith the cylinder Valve Overlap. So C-6 Valve Overlap ought = injector on C-5; C representing Cylinder. Does it depend on the cam? Can anyone who knows reply? I have 2005 Detroit Diesel 14 L Series 60 Model 6067HV2E
great videos, love watching someone that is very picky and precise on adj. brings back memories of watching my dad and uncle work on engines. is there different injector ht. settings?
I’m still confused. I have a pre egr 14L Hk and my manual states that if #6 is in valve overlap, I am to adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5. I have watched several other videos that back this up and my manual also differs from yours. I’m sure that you did it correctly but I’m very confused as to why there are two different ways of doing it. It’s plainly stated in my manual that if #6 is in valve overlap, adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5 but you are adjusting 6 &1. I’m sorry but this is confusing to me.
If you can get the tool I used for what they call injector timing, you can adjust your valves and injectors at the same time like I did here. You don't have to adjust the injectors if you don't want to, you can only do the valves if you want, there's nothing to be afraid of. You can get the tool for the injectors on Amazon or your local dealer or just get the feeler gauges at any auto parts store for the valves. I had no fear the first time because I was an auto mechanic for about 10 years a long time ago and had done it many times on old cars back when cars were adjusted that way. There should be a lot of videos on YT for that, mostly on small engine machines and motorcycles to get you well acquainted with the procedure.
Any Detroit engine on truck dealer can get it, I got mine on ebay, it comes in 3 large binders. I could have asked the dealer where I get most of my truck parts to copy the pages I need and I'm sure they would have done that for me if I didn't really want the whole set. Thanks for watching.
I noticed your chart says Series 60G Engine. Is that the natural gas version? Just curious because the procedure is different from a couple other charts I've seen online
Dwayne Wells The 60G is the natural gas version of the series 60. Intake specs is .011” and exhaust was .036” I don’t know why he is using this chart? The valves would be adjusted correctly,as they have the same firing order. It’s adjusting the injectors that he would have problems.I have never use the procedure so I can’t be certain if it would work on diesel version.
Sorry, the adjustment is so simple, I didn't think anyone would have a problem. rotate motor till exhaust valves are on low cam, you can find low cam either by getting the running mate or companion cylinder on valve overlap, or just cheat a little and watch the cylinder you're on, turn motor till (intake valves) are all the way down, and adjust the Pac Brake till the adjusting screw touches the valve and back it off 1/2 turn and lock it down, (the adjustment screws are on top of the Pac Brake directly above the exhaust valve adjustments). do both valves the same and repeat on each cylinder. If you don't know what running mates are, go back to the beginning of this video and watch all of it without skipping. Feel free to ask if you still have trouble.
Hey Gordon great series! Thanks a bunch, in your opinion would valves/injectors out of whack a bit lead to excessive smoke/poor performance? Thanks in advance!
I doubt it, it's not likely the adjustments got off enough for that, more likely a bad injector or something broken in the motor, (rings, burned valve, worn cam, turbo, clogged air filter, etc.) what color is the smoke? if it's bluish gray it's motor oil, if it's black it's unburned fuel, if it's white and dissipates quickly in the air it's water. If it's running bad, I guess you have black smoke and an injector problem.
Gordon Robertson thanks for the reply! It's my neighbors truck & I work on it for him. Oh it just rolls black coal lol it's an old '98 Kenworth. It recently started to run rough/lopey idle. He suspects air entering the fuel system somewhere. I'm gonna chk the beast over this weekend.
Well Gordon,I want your professional opinion If I can get a moment of your time....I MAY be in the same boat as you were, Symptoms 1. Light blue smoke at start up- Starts up quickly- But has a Miss at Load- Milky in oil- (pretty good blowby while running) About half as much smoke as your blowby was.....I am Getting a lil coolant in oil, Motor is a 12 liter CAT.Where should I start in diagnosing?
I only know the Detroit. You could have a leak in the oil cooler or a head gasket. The "Adept ape" channel does cat engines and is a full time truck mechanic. He might be able to help more. Thanks for watching.
If number 6 is on valve over lap 1 gets valves adjusted why 6 is getting injector height instead of number 5? Please respond if you can I am doing valve adjustment on my 60 series for first time and all the manuals i can find says if valve overlap 6 then you adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5 Thank you!
All I can say is my shop manual said to do it the way I did, a copy of that page was on the windshield while I did it. It ran fine after I did it that way and still does. Be sure the shop manual you use is for your same motor and the injector tool is also.
Mr Gordon I got my Detroit finished. But when It takes a long time to crank and idles rough but runs smoothly when pressing accerolator. My cam gear did fall when I took head off but it would only go back in one way. I thought it was one tooth off but I can't even turn engine and move the gear. It only goes in back where it came out. It did blow allot of white smoke when cranking but it clears up once running. It just hard to crank and idles rough. What you think is wrong. Timing, injector.......?
White smoke sounds like burning antifreeze, does it dissipate quickly in the air? then it's antifreeze, if it stays in the air a while and is a bluish color then it's oil. The rough idle is either an injector or the overhead adjustment is off. Can you jump the starter solenoid with the key off and listen to the compression while it cranks? it should sound the same on each compression stroke. Not likely the cam gear fell out of time.
Gordon Robertson yes sir it wasn't the cam. I put a different end on the injector bc the one was broke and now it runs like a champ. Thanks for your help.
I just did my overhead. Not sure but I may have gotten something wrong. From an idle, I revved it a little to see if the Jake's come on. They did, but it popped like a backfire asthe Jake's shut back off. I did minor adjustments to most every valve. All 6 injectors were a little high by about 1 to 1 1/2 turns. Should I worry . Do you think it is injector or Jake setting. Mine is a BK with 4912 cam 6952 injectors and 770 jakes
I am not a truck mechanic, only a driver who used to be a car mechanic a long time ago, I do my own work at home and share on YT. I do not have true Jake brakes, mine are called Pac brakes and I think the true Jakes get a different adjustment than what I did in the video. I think you can find your engine specs on a decal on the valve cover to be sure you did your valves right. 1 to 1-1/2 turns sounds awful high to me for a valve adjustment. I don't know if you did this right, don't drive it until you are sure you got it right. Let me know what you find. Good luck.
@@57bagre those turns were on the injectors. Maybe it wasn't that much. I bought the right tool, so it seems I did it right. Just don't know for sure. Thought you might have that experience. Thanks
I don't know, mine did good. I haven't had the valve cover off since this video and I drive the truck almost everyday. I think I would do it again if I were you. I have had a brain fart before and found I did or forgot to do something that left me scratching my head and found it when I did it again.
Hi Gordon, According to my chart, when #6 is in valve overlap, you are correct in setting #1 valves. However, I think you meant you were going to adjust #5 Injector next. Also when you moved on to put #2 in valve overlap I've never seen someone adjust an injector on the same cylinder they just put in valve overlap. In fact the manual says severe engine damage can occur if you do this. Were you just misspoken when you mentioned this?
When do you suggest I adjust an injector? High cam on the injector is on top of compression stroke, middle of low cam for the injector is on valve overlap. I think you already know to adjust the valves on middle of low cam, the injector as well low cam. I think I had a chart on the windshield in this video, find it and freeze it, save a picture of it to study.
That's a big 10-4 Gordon. I guess there are a few different ways of doing it. I just wanted to mention that my particular chart has me doing 3 things per cylinder for a total of 18 steps. For example when you put #2 in valve overlap, it would then have me set #5 Valves and set Injector #3. Next step would be put #4 in overlap, set #3 Valves, and set Injector #6 and so on...... I've just never seen anyone put a cylinder in valve overlap and then start adjusting that same #valve. I'ts always been valve overlap on one cylinder, adjust valves on another, and adjust injector on another. Maybe I missed something but once again many thanks for taking the time to make these videos sir.
hi Gordon. Thanks for your videos. Is your motor an N2 motor? I know this is goto sound crazy. But my rocker arm shafts didn't have bolts holding them down. They were secured with 2 nuts on the studs located on the front and back of the head. I noticed u have bolts that secured your rocker arms. Is it possible the Jake housing holds my rocker arms in place? If I have to install the Jake housing before I run my overhead? That's going to be difficult to run my overhead. I dud a video on my channel KURT SIBILA. It's video Install injectors part 2 I believe. U can see when I pull tge Jake housing. I say there are no bolts holding down my rocker arms. Any info will be appreciated. Thank u
I would have to do a video on basic engine fundamentals to explain what is exhaust stroke. I'm sure you can find a video about that on UA-cam if you search for it. Thanks for watching.
The valve/injector adjusting sequence shown in the video is not correct. You can see the service manual sheet and at the bottom it says it's for Series 60G Engine. Pretty sure that's a natural gas engine. This is not the sequence to use on a diesel engine. Valves and injectors do not get adjusted on the same cylinder at the same time.
While this is not the correct sequence to use, I can't see how anything could get "damaged". The engine may not run properly, if anything, but Gordon surely would have noticed an engine performance problem.
I hope that all is well and I have a question as I am learning and plan to do my own overhead soon Is valve overlap the same thing as top dead center ?
Yes and no. The position of the piston is top dead center on both (tdc) and valve overlap. The crankshaft rotates 2 times per complete cycle, starting at top dead center (tdc), the 1st stroke rotating and pulling the piston down towards bottom dead center (bdc) is called the intake stroke, intake valve starts to open a few degrees before tdc (pulling air in the cylinder) 2nd stroke is called compression stroke, both valves are closed as the piston is pushed up towards tdc and just before tdc the injector fires and as the compressed air explodes passing tdc and 3rd stroke begins as the piston (this time is PUSHED down by the explosion), 3rd stroke is called power stroke, momentum on the crankshaft caries the piston past btc and back up on the 4th stroke called exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens just after btc and stays open until just before tdc and as it begins to close the intake valve begins to open (still just before tdc) while passing tdc exhaust valve is almost closed and intake valve opening at the same amount at tdc as exhaust valve is closing. Now passing tdc on 1st stroke again intake valve opens to start intake stroke. Valve overlap is that 2nd tdc when both valves are open at the same time (exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening). TDC is a position of the piston, but generally referred to at the top of the compression stroke. I hope this explains your question, watch the video again after reading this. All this is the same on a gas engine only instead of injector firing (squirting fuel in the cylinder) on a gas enging it's when the spark plug fires.
Is this valve adjustment procedure the same for all Detroit 60 series? I have a 14.0 liter. The dealer says it's the newer one with the emissions. Thanks in advance for any feedback
Better get the specs from the dealer and have them print out the procedure for you and between that and this video you should be ok. Thanks for watching.
great videos on the rebuild thanks for showing the valve setting, everyone else just points at this and that but you showed how to. thank you very much. what was the cost of it at crank up? are you switching to synthetic oil? thanks again for taking the extra time to video this.
I got the complete in frame kit for $2050.00 through the machine shop, the shop charged me $1700.00 for rebuilding the head, installing the pistons on the rods, and an extra used rod to replace #5 that was bent, and then the new oil, fuel, and air filters, the oil and whatever bits and pieces I don't remember
I'm seeing shops sell part at a better deal then the dealership. As well. Thank you for the breakdown information, hope your back to work soon. Let us know if you see a improvement on fuel, oil changes sample of oil on the first one, and performance.
that was a absolutely awesome set of videos. great job with great explanation how long did it talk to do all of it? looking at buying a prevost with a 60 series in it with 860k on it. runs good. what should i think on doing first? they say it has to come out and cant be done in frame. maybe i can bring it to you and we can do it lol
I had about 4 weeks in it mainly because of bad weather and Christmas and New year holidays. Have the "bull gear" checked for play before the 1st million miles. Before buying any vehicle, check for accessibility to all the maintenance and major parts if you want to do your own work and even if you pay someone to do it, it will cost a lot more if they have to suffer a lot of extra work to do a simple job. Thanks for watching.
You're supposed to note the injector number at each cylinder and program the ecm so it knows which injector is in each cylinder. I'm not sure why you should do that, it will run the same without doing it. I had it done at a shop when I changed the injectors about 13 years ago. After this rebuild, I put them back in their proper places.
I change my camshaft bushing/bearing,the problem is,I don't know how to set the timing because I don't know where is the timing marks of camshaft,can you make the video that showing the timing marks,please
The timing marks are inside the timing gear case, you can't get inside the case at home without special tools and it's a big job. Part 12 in my series on doing my engine rebuild is when I put the cam back in. I can't do another video on that because I don't have a spare engine here that's not running, that engine is in my truck at work. I don't think your cam gear fell out of time, but it is driven by the "adjustable cam idler gear" which unfortunately doesn't have the same amount of teeth as the cam gear, It has 1 tooth less I think, but every revolution of the motor brings the timing mark between the "adjustable idler" off 1 tooth so you can't find the original timing marks without taking off the timing gear case cover, but you can get the shop manual to that motor and there are directions how to check your cam timing, and the "adjustable idler gear" can be adjusted back (again with special tools) away from the cam gear so you can change the timing, but to readjust the idler gear back is a very touchy procedure, I haven't done that before but I read about in in the book and I don't want to try it. I don't think your gear fell out of time, Try to put it together like it is and check the cam timing according to the book before you put the jakes back on. To check the timing, you need to find absolute TDC (top dead center) on #1 by pulling the injector of #1 or #6 and putting a shaft of some kind ( a Philips screwdriver) in the injector hole when the piston is up, then mount a dial indicator so the tip is on top of the screwdriver handle, rotate the engine left and right until the indicator just barely moves down and mark the balance pulley somewhere next to a permanent reference by it, use "white out" or something easy to see, then turn the motor the other direction and do the same thing and put another mark on the pulley, repeat procedure both directions again to double check your marks, the marks will be maybe 3/4 inch apart or something like that, once your sure your marks are good, put another mark 1/2 way between those 2 marks and erase the other 2 marks. this is absolute TDC don't lose it. Now put your injector and rockers back on and follow the directions to check your timing from the book with your dial indicator.
The patience that one needs to do what this great man has done here is FAR beyond my capacity! Great job
Trick I’ve learned working for a Detroit dealer for years is on a 60 you can turn it over till all the came lobes of each cylinder are facing out and you can do all valves and the injector for that cylinder. Pretty cool trick.
So many people doing overheads on UA-cam think you need a 15' long breakerbar to roll the motor over. This old guy just yanks it over by the fan!
I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed your build videos. They were very good at explaining and why it was important. One thing I couldn't believe was how much metal was in your oil pan. That's nuts. Someone left those chunks in the pan, probably building the top and didn't want to crack open the pan. Anyway. Thanks for the videos, very much appreciated sir.
Outstanding! I dont know anything about engines but your patience and attention to detail is admirable
Thank you.
Just watched the series of your in frame. Learned a lot, and am impressed that you did it in your driveway. I’m sure plenty of folks wouldn’t have tried it without a shop. My hat’s off to you, and thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
She sounds great and I'm giving you an A+++ on the rebuild and video series ! We have to go in the morning to work on a 2005 Detroit Diesel 60 series that's getting diesel fuel in the antifreeze so your video's were very helpful and keep up the great work Gordon !
I have watched from start to finish and you inspired me to get started on my series 60 before winter is over. The information you give is very helpful
Thank You Sir, I hope it all goes well for you.
Wanting to breakdown a 60 series detroit ive always wanted to do. Your video's were right on helped me save so much money. Thanks again.
Gordon Robertson The Master !, thanks so much for these detailed rebuild vids
thank you.
Awesome job well done Mr Gordon I rebuilt my cummins 350 big cam about 8 months... Love to see that we have something in common were not afraid to get greasy. Let's keep on trucking buddy
Thank You Sir. I hope yours is still doing well.
Finally some nice weather, Bright Sunshine, Birds singing....and the thing runs, Congratulations!
I've really enjoyed watching the series.
I wish the sun and birds would come back, the wind blew them both away, we're back in the 20s and 30s with high wind. Thanks for following.
Way to go Gordon!!! That motor is a piece of art. Every piece has a function and every piece is built like a tank. Awesome!
Thanks John, I hope to go back to work soon.
Hi Gordon, I have watched and learned from your videos, Thank you so much for taking the time to share what know with others, You are a hard working man, I admire you my friend. By the way your motor sounds great.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Old school Diesel Mechanics are the best in the hole world.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Watched every video in this series and learned a lot. Really nice to hear it run good job
Thank You Sir, and than You for subscribing.
so i went on you tube looking for someone who has rebuilt a 60 series detroit.....then i find your video with your detroit having the exact same issue as mine in the exact same cylinder. i couldnt ask for a better detailed and informative video.....by the way, every time i hear your voice it reminds me of johnny cash. thanks for efforts, they are appreciated.
Thanks for the comment. I never thought I could sound like Johnny Cash, I cant sing, if you like Johnny Cash you should look at UA-cam for a Mexican kid from California about 16 yrs old who sounds exactly like him, I forgot his name but just put in "sounds like Johnny Cash"
i found the videos. his name is vince mira. i do like johnny cash and that young man is very impressive. thanks for the tip. i look forward to your videos. i have never had a 60 series apart and was looking to see what i could learn about the internals before i tore it down. your explanation and attention to the details was a great help. i will be tearing it down soon. i was amazed at how low the cost of machine work and parts were compared to cummins and cat engine i have done. thanks again.
Way to go Gordon .You are truly Old school Brother Truck easy
Great job... enjoyed watching you do this the past month
Thank You Sir.
thankyou for taking the time to show us your hard work . way to go
Thank You Sir.
great videos!!!! appreciate the time and effort you put in to document this overhaul. THANKS
Thank You Sir for following.
Congrats on getting it back together. That a lot of work, and money saved. Hopefully it will go another million.
Thanks for following and for the comments. Yes it is a lot of money saved (about $10,000) but I have to look more at how much money spent ($4000) because I was trying to save money to pay taxes when this happened, so I can't pay taxes at all 'till after I pay back the personal loans that got me through this and chew down the credit cards a little bit.
Gordon Robertson know what mean looking at doing an inframe too. you have helped temedalsly thanks
Thanks for watching Jason.
This video helped me in 2023!
Well done Gordon, sounds like you did a good job on your first DD60 rebuild!!!!
Thank You Sir.
Thanks Mr G. This video really got me out of a jam.
Way to go enjoyed the rebuild. And glad she fired right up. May you get a million trouble free miles out of the engine.
Thank You Sir, and thank you for subscribing. I think I will retire long before the rebuild wares out.
I ran my first Detroit 60 series in a 1989 Freightliner. And ran a lot of them after that. Always laughed when the guys talked about how bad they were when pulling. But if they learned how to run one. They would pull like crazy. I always pulled them down to 1200 or even 1150. And it was like they would get a second wind. And never give up pulling.
You the man Gordon. Excellent work
Thank you sir.
Adjusting thing! I love this guy.
Well done congratulations. Please keep us posted with any news when driving
Just wondering how much did parts cost you over all?
$4000
I really enjoyed this series of videos thanks.
Best and easiest to understand of all videos i've watched ,old school rocks!
Thanks.
That's what i like to see a mechanic that's precise !!
Thanks for watching.
Hey Gordon I would love to help you out with the camera work all I ask in return is that you teach me how to work on big trucks
Gordon.. back in the saddle again ...she sound like she runnin like a top...I bet she go another million miles...good for you..:)
Its awesome to see it running, well done and I hope it gives you a million miles trouble free. One thing about the injector measurement it seems somewhat subjective to me.
The injector height is the same as the ignition timing on a gas engine, the injectors are submerged in a preset pressurized bath of fuel, they have an inlet screen on the side that is submerged in the pressurized fuel, the computer sends a precise timed, (not timed so much when, but how long) signal to the injector to lift a magnetic plunger just long enough to load the injector with the correct amount of fuel before the cam strikes the injector at the precise time, the precise time, (firing the injector) is determined by the height adjustment, the amount of fuel injected is determined by the length of time the magnetic plunger is lifted by the computer signal. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for asking.
Good aftemoon, thank you very much for your video. Please write what kind of oil pressure you have shows after the repair. You are just fine! The real driver!
about 60 psi
Great videos extremely helpful! If you ever run across the problem of the diamond gasket leaking I’d love to see how that’s changed out
Thank you very much ... It has been a pleasure to watch ..
Thank You Sir.
loved the series thanks!
Thank You for following.
Fantastic Gordon. Ive been watching this since late December - glad to see you get it back together and running.
Thank You Sir.
Priceless information.
Great job! Sounds real good!
Thank You Sir.
Great explanation sir. I was wondering if you can shed some light how I can obtain a hardcopy of the Series 60 workshop manual? Thanks in advance.
I like the work you do and you also explain thanks
Thank you sir.
Wow, what a great job, thanks for sharing!
Thank You Sir.
Some of the best videos on UA-cam. What's next.
Thanks for the compliment, I have no Idea what's going to break down next, if nothing breaks, then maybe a home repair or cooking, who knows.
Based on my service manual you are adjusting the injector height on the wrong cylinder whith the cylinder Valve Overlap. So C-6 Valve Overlap ought = injector on C-5; C representing Cylinder.
Does it depend on the cam?
Can anyone who knows reply?
I have 2005 Detroit Diesel 14 L Series 60 Model 6067HV2E
Wow Great job man
great videos, love watching someone that is very picky and precise on adj. brings back memories of watching my dad and uncle work on engines. is there different injector ht. settings?
congrats loved it.
now you got to take us all for a ride
OK.
That's bad ass. I learned a lot
Good work
I’m still confused. I have a pre egr 14L Hk and my manual states that if #6 is in valve overlap, I am to adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5. I have watched several other videos that back this up and my manual also differs from yours. I’m sure that you did it correctly but I’m very confused as to why there are two different ways of doing it. It’s plainly stated in my manual that if #6 is in valve overlap, adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5 but you are adjusting 6 &1. I’m sorry but this is confusing to me.
You are right.I have never seen it done this way.
Want to adjust my valves so bad just nervous of messing up!
If you can get the tool I used for what they call injector timing, you can adjust your valves and injectors at the same time like I did here. You don't have to adjust the injectors if you don't want to, you can only do the valves if you want, there's nothing to be afraid of. You can get the tool for the injectors on Amazon or your local dealer or just get the feeler gauges at any auto parts store for the valves. I had no fear the first time because I was an auto mechanic for about 10 years a long time ago and had done it many times on old cars back when cars were adjusted that way. There should be a lot of videos on YT for that, mostly on small engine machines and motorcycles to get you well acquainted with the procedure.
awesome job well done and remember if it dont leak oil its not a detroit
Thank You Sir.
Thanks for your videos. I believe I could rebuild my Detroit now. Where do you get the rebuild Manuel from
Any Detroit engine on truck dealer can get it, I got mine on ebay, it comes in 3 large binders. I could have asked the dealer where I get most of my truck parts to copy the pages I need and I'm sure they would have done that for me if I didn't really want the whole set. Thanks for watching.
GORDON i need help adjusting my jacke breaks???
I noticed your chart says Series 60G Engine. Is that the natural gas version? Just curious because the procedure is different from a couple other charts I've seen online
Dwayne Wells The 60G is the natural gas version of the series 60. Intake specs is .011” and exhaust was .036” I don’t know why he is using this chart? The valves would be adjusted correctly,as they have the same firing order. It’s adjusting the injectors that he would have problems.I have never use the procedure so I can’t be certain if it would work on diesel version.
Gordon when you installed jack brakes assembly back you need to adjust jack brake too plz advise
Sorry, the adjustment is so simple, I didn't think anyone would have a problem. rotate motor till exhaust valves are on low cam, you can find low cam either by getting the running mate or companion cylinder on valve overlap, or just cheat a little and watch the cylinder you're on, turn motor till (intake valves) are all the way down, and adjust the Pac Brake till the adjusting screw touches the valve and back it off 1/2 turn and lock it down, (the adjustment screws are on top of the Pac Brake directly above the exhaust valve adjustments). do both valves the same and repeat on each cylinder. If you don't know what running mates are, go back to the beginning of this video and watch all of it without skipping. Feel free to ask if you still have trouble.
is it a good idea to polish the crank shaft on where the bearings ride on? or just leave it alone if it isnt scored..
If it isn't left open for a long time it shouldn't be rusty, I covered that in part 11 installing pistons
great job Gordon, good UA-cam channel were else you learn to skin a catfish and rebuild a 60 series Detroit.
Thanks George, I do focus on mechanical and general repair but anything that might be a DIY project or when I find a great product.
Thank you very much if you let me know
Hey Gordon great series! Thanks a bunch, in your opinion would valves/injectors out of whack a bit lead to excessive smoke/poor performance? Thanks in advance!
I doubt it, it's not likely the adjustments got off enough for that, more likely a bad injector or something broken in the motor, (rings, burned valve, worn cam, turbo, clogged air filter, etc.) what color is the smoke? if it's bluish gray it's motor oil, if it's black it's unburned fuel, if it's white and dissipates quickly in the air it's water. If it's running bad, I guess you have black smoke and an injector problem.
Gordon Robertson thanks for the reply! It's my neighbors truck & I work on it for him. Oh it just rolls black coal lol it's an old '98 Kenworth. It recently started to run rough/lopey idle. He suspects air entering the fuel system somewhere. I'm gonna chk the beast over this weekend.
Well Gordon,I want your professional opinion If I can get a moment of your time....I MAY be in the same boat as you were, Symptoms 1. Light blue smoke at start up- Starts up quickly- But has a Miss at Load- Milky in oil- (pretty good blowby while running) About half as much smoke as your blowby was.....I am Getting a lil coolant in oil, Motor is a 12 liter CAT.Where should I start in diagnosing?
I only know the Detroit. You could have a leak in the oil cooler or a head gasket. The "Adept ape" channel does cat engines and is a full time truck mechanic. He might be able to help more. Thanks for watching.
@@57bagre thank you sir,I'll check him out for help
Amazing how puny that set of wires are. Just hanging there waiting to get rubbed if they’re not coiled just so with a screwdriver.
Awesome job
Thank You Sir.
Just help me to adjust how many millimeters the drain hose is and how many millimeters the booster sucks. Thank
Thank you so much sr.
If number 6 is on valve over lap 1 gets valves adjusted why 6 is getting injector height instead of number 5?
Please respond if you can
I am doing valve adjustment on my 60 series for first time and all the manuals i can find says if valve overlap 6 then you adjust valves on 1 and injector on 5
Thank you!
All I can say is my shop manual said to do it the way I did, a copy of that page was on the windshield while I did it. It ran fine after I did it that way and still does. Be sure the shop manual you use is for your same motor and the injector tool is also.
Mr Gordon I got my Detroit finished. But when It takes a long time to crank and idles rough but runs smoothly when pressing accerolator. My cam gear did fall when I took head off but it would only go back in one way. I thought it was one tooth off but I can't even turn engine and move the gear. It only goes in back where it came out. It did blow allot of white smoke when cranking but it clears up once running. It just hard to crank and idles rough. What you think is wrong. Timing, injector.......?
White smoke sounds like burning antifreeze, does it dissipate quickly in the air? then it's antifreeze, if it stays in the air a while and is a bluish color then it's oil. The rough idle is either an injector or the overhead adjustment is off. Can you jump the starter solenoid with the key off and listen to the compression while it cranks? it should sound the same on each compression stroke. Not likely the cam gear fell out of time.
Gordon Robertson yes sir it wasn't the cam. I put a different end on the injector bc the one was broke and now it runs like a champ. Thanks for your help.
Do you know anything about the on the 14 L I have a 2004 if I change the head to 2001 to run ddec 4 will I had to change the cam
I just did my overhead. Not sure but I may have gotten something wrong. From an idle, I revved it a little to see if the Jake's come on. They did, but it popped like a backfire asthe Jake's shut back off. I did minor adjustments to most every valve. All 6 injectors were a little high by about 1 to 1 1/2 turns. Should I worry . Do you think it is injector or Jake setting. Mine is a BK with 4912 cam 6952 injectors and 770 jakes
I am not a truck mechanic, only a driver who used to be a car mechanic a long time ago, I do my own work at home and share on YT. I do not have true Jake brakes, mine are called Pac brakes and I think the true Jakes get a different adjustment than what I did in the video. I think you can find your engine specs on a decal on the valve cover to be sure you did your valves right. 1 to 1-1/2 turns sounds awful high to me for a valve adjustment. I don't know if you did this right, don't drive it until you are sure you got it right. Let me know what you find. Good luck.
@@57bagre those turns were on the injectors. Maybe it wasn't that much. I bought the right tool, so it seems I did it right. Just don't know for sure. Thought you might have that experience. Thanks
I don't know, mine did good. I haven't had the valve cover off since this video and I drive the truck almost everyday. I think I would do it again if I were you. I have had a brain fart before and found I did or forgot to do something that left me scratching my head and found it when I did it again.
Yeah I think you are right. Just wish I had the access you have. Mines in a 9400 international and partially under the cab.
Hi Gordon, According to my chart, when #6 is in valve overlap, you are correct in setting #1 valves. However, I think you meant you were going to adjust #5 Injector next. Also when you moved on to put #2 in valve overlap I've never seen someone adjust an injector on the same cylinder they just put in valve overlap. In fact the manual says severe engine damage can occur if you do this. Were you just misspoken when you mentioned this?
When do you suggest I adjust an injector? High cam on the injector is on top of compression stroke, middle of low cam for the injector is on valve overlap. I think you already know to adjust the valves on middle of low cam, the injector as well low cam. I think I had a chart on the windshield in this video, find it and freeze it, save a picture of it to study.
That's a big 10-4 Gordon. I guess there are a few different ways of doing it. I just wanted to mention that my particular chart has me doing 3 things per cylinder for a total of 18 steps. For example when you put #2 in valve overlap, it would then have me set #5 Valves and set Injector #3. Next step would be put #4 in overlap, set #3 Valves, and set Injector #6 and so on...... I've just never seen anyone put a cylinder in valve overlap and then start adjusting that same #valve. I'ts always been valve overlap on one cylinder, adjust valves on another, and adjust injector on another. Maybe I missed something but once again many thanks for taking the time to make these videos sir.
@@thatlowesguy5544 that chart is for gas series that’s what the G stands for
ok mine is next lol best videos thanks
Thank You Sir.
Nice job Gord:)
Thanks William.
hi Gordon. Thanks for your videos. Is your motor an N2 motor? I know this is goto sound crazy. But my rocker arm shafts didn't have bolts holding them down. They were secured with 2 nuts on the studs located on the front and back of the head. I noticed u have bolts that secured your rocker arms. Is it possible the Jake housing holds my rocker arms in place? If I have to install the Jake housing before I run my overhead? That's going to be difficult to run my overhead. I dud a video on my channel KURT SIBILA. It's video Install injectors part 2 I believe. U can see when I pull tge Jake housing. I say there are no bolts holding down my rocker arms. Any info will be appreciated. Thank u
And on the Jake brakes can you explain what the exhaust stroke means
I would have to do a video on basic engine fundamentals to explain what is exhaust stroke. I'm sure you can find a video about that on UA-cam if you search for it. Thanks for watching.
Which bolts are you using to tighten it down ?
The valve/injector adjusting sequence shown in the video is not correct. You can see the service manual sheet and at the bottom it says it's for Series 60G Engine. Pretty sure that's a natural gas engine. This is not the sequence to use on a diesel engine. Valves and injectors do not get adjusted on the same cylinder at the same time.
While this is not the correct sequence to use, I can't see how anything could get "damaged". The engine may not run properly, if anything, but Gordon surely would have noticed an engine performance problem.
I hope that all is well and I have a question as I am learning and plan to do my own overhead soon
Is valve overlap the same thing as top dead center ?
Yes and no. The position of the piston is top dead center on both (tdc) and valve overlap. The crankshaft rotates 2 times per complete cycle, starting at top dead center (tdc), the 1st stroke rotating and pulling the piston down towards bottom dead center (bdc) is called the intake stroke, intake valve starts to open a few degrees before tdc (pulling air in the cylinder) 2nd stroke is called compression stroke, both valves are closed as the piston is pushed up towards tdc and just before tdc the injector fires and as the compressed air explodes passing tdc and 3rd stroke begins as the piston (this time is PUSHED down by the explosion), 3rd stroke is called power stroke, momentum on the crankshaft caries the piston past btc and back up on the 4th stroke called exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens just after btc and stays open until just before tdc and as it begins to close the intake valve begins to open (still just before tdc) while passing tdc exhaust valve is almost closed and intake valve opening at the same amount at tdc as exhaust valve is closing. Now passing tdc on 1st stroke again intake valve opens to start intake stroke.
Valve overlap is that 2nd tdc when both valves are open at the same time (exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening). TDC is a position of the piston, but generally referred to at the top of the compression stroke. I hope this explains your question, watch the video again after reading this. All this is the same on a gas engine only instead of injector firing (squirting fuel in the cylinder) on a gas enging it's when the spark plug fires.
please do a follow up video if you don't mind.
I'm doing a video on the fan clutch right now, I'm still waiting to get called back to work.
That a Boy Gordon!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is this valve adjustment procedure the same for all Detroit 60 series? I have a 14.0 liter. The dealer says it's the newer one with the emissions. Thanks in advance for any feedback
Better get the specs from the dealer and have them print out the procedure for you and between that and this video you should be ok. Thanks for watching.
check my channel. im doin a 14L egr now
That a Boy GORDON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
should of showed it getting bleed out and cranking but it does sound awesome congrats
Thanks.
ermano cuanto yeba de torq las tapa de bancada ibiela
great videos on the rebuild thanks for showing the valve setting, everyone else just points at this and that but you showed how to. thank you very much. what was the cost of it at crank up? are you switching to synthetic oil? thanks again for taking the extra time to video this.
I'm glad to hear that You appreciate my detailed explanations. The cost was about $4000
What stage kit did you buy? How long was the downtime, with mechanical issues. I seen the weather was a big issue for you.
I got the complete in frame kit for $2050.00 through the machine shop, the shop charged me $1700.00 for rebuilding the head, installing the pistons on the rods, and an extra used rod to replace #5 that was bent, and then the new oil, fuel, and air filters, the oil and whatever bits and pieces I don't remember
I'm seeing shops sell part at a better deal then the dealership. As well. Thank you for the breakdown information, hope your back to work soon. Let us know if you see a improvement on fuel, oil changes sample of oil on the first one, and performance.
it sound good sr.
Thank You Sir.
that was a absolutely awesome set of videos. great job with great explanation how long did it talk to do all of it? looking at buying a prevost with a 60 series in it with 860k on it. runs good. what should i think on doing first? they say it has to come out and cant be done in frame. maybe i can bring it to you and we can do it lol
I had about 4 weeks in it mainly because of bad weather and Christmas and New year holidays. Have the "bull gear" checked for play before the 1st million miles. Before buying any vehicle, check for accessibility to all the maintenance and major parts if you want to do your own work and even if you pay someone to do it, it will cost a lot more if they have to suffer a lot of extra work to do a simple job. Thanks for watching.
If 2 is in overlap you set injector on 3, no 2 6 on overlap set injector on 5, not 6☺️
thats for a series 60g engine. thats different from the normal 60 isnt it?
Hi Gordon every time you do the injectors you have to set them up to the ecm on Detroit s60 2007 ??
You're supposed to note the injector number at each cylinder and program the ecm so it knows which injector is in each cylinder. I'm not sure why you should do that, it will run the same without doing it. I had it done at a shop when I changed the injectors about 13 years ago. After this rebuild, I put them back in their proper places.
Gordon have you pulled a load yet, and can you tell a difference?
no loads yet but bobtails nice, not much difference, it ran good before, it will not use oil like before and will last another 20 years.
What kind of silicone are you using
Great job tank you
Thanks for watching.
I change my camshaft bushing/bearing,the problem is,I don't know how to set the timing because I don't know where is the timing marks of camshaft,can you make the video that showing the timing marks,please
The timing marks are inside the timing gear case, you can't get inside the case at home without special tools and it's a big job. Part 12 in my series on doing my engine rebuild is when I put the cam back in. I can't do another video on that because I don't have a spare engine here that's not running, that engine is in my truck at work. I don't think your cam gear fell out of time, but it is driven by the "adjustable cam idler gear" which unfortunately doesn't have the same amount of teeth as the cam gear, It has 1 tooth less I think, but every revolution of the motor brings the timing mark between the "adjustable idler" off 1 tooth so you can't find the original timing marks without taking off the timing gear case cover, but you can get the shop manual to that motor and there are directions how to check your cam timing, and the "adjustable idler gear" can be adjusted back (again with special tools) away from the cam gear so you can change the timing, but to readjust the idler gear back is a very touchy procedure, I haven't done that before but I read about in in the book and I don't want to try it. I don't think your gear fell out of time, Try to put it together like it is and check the cam timing according to the book before you put the jakes back on. To check the timing, you need to find absolute TDC (top dead center) on #1 by pulling the injector of #1 or #6 and putting a shaft of some kind ( a Philips screwdriver) in the injector hole when the piston is up, then mount a dial indicator so the tip is on top of the screwdriver handle, rotate the engine left and right until the indicator just barely moves down and mark the balance pulley somewhere next to a permanent reference by it, use "white out" or something easy to see, then turn the motor the other direction and do the same thing and put another mark on the pulley, repeat procedure both directions again to double check your marks, the marks will be maybe 3/4 inch apart or something like that, once your sure your marks are good, put another mark 1/2 way between those 2 marks and erase the other 2 marks. this is absolute TDC don't lose it. Now put your injector and rockers back on and follow the directions to check your timing from the book with your dial indicator.
Gordon Robertson OK sir,thank you for giving time answering my question
Did/do you add any silicone to your gasket
15:32
@@57bagre thank you sir you are very appreciated! I installed my own water pump tuesday thanks to you sir!
Thanks for watching.
What’s the torque spec on these valve covers ?
How can adjust injectors